You can buy a proper set of tools for releasing the connectors from the connector block, having used a similar set from Laser I can say they work well.
https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/lase...inal-tool-set/
You can buy a proper set of tools for releasing the connectors from the connector block, having used a similar set from Laser I can say they work well.
https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/lase...inal-tool-set/
£10Originally Posted by dmiller1
They would be about £300 from RS !! I might buy a set just in case I ever need them!
Thanks for that
£63, however, is cause to pause and think. Just need one or two of them for a one off use.
Stick with the watch screwdriver. Works a treat £5 out of b and mn
Just had an email from vintage tyres .that's the original size 195x55x13 available. At £130 quid a corner I'll pass
Looking to source the main bush for gear linkage at gearbox end, load of play in the bush. Any help would be great. Thanks
Do you mean the one that's up in the gearbox or the other end that joins the rod from the gear stick?
Hi Ian, I'm looking for the one at gear box end, but if you know where to get both that would be great. Thanks
Looks like a good solid project.
A bit late I know, but you can get those terminals from vehicle wiring products or polevolt. I think the miniumum order is £10, but that an be a mix of items.
Cheers mate but got it all from rs components.
Thought I'd upload a few pictures of my lovely Raider. Did someone say " loose wire"Damaged dash and leaking matrix are never a good combo
.
Hopefully the first and last time I need to remove a Renault 5 dash. I knew the wiring on my car was bad but WOW!!!! Someone went to town with connector block and a set of snips.
.
Heater box stripped in two , cleaned and put back together with new Rheostat. Thought it wise as the old one looked past it's best.
Next job is to tackle the wiring...... wish me.lucka
Bloody hell mate you gone and done it the hard way when you remove the dash all that wiring loom says in
the dash 😬
No way I could leave the wiring in the dash. Someone had cut out all the connector blocks on drivers side and soldered all the wires together. Plus wires for toad imobillser run through everything. Decided to start from scratch and get it all right.
You could probably improve it a bit over what Renault supplied.
I had my dash and wiring out of the car and all over the lounge for a week or two while I removed the old immobiliser bodge and did it a lot better, fitting new relays for each circuit cut. There were a lot of wires from the left to right had drive conversion that ran all over the place.
One really big improvement is to stop all the big current going through the ignition key barrel switch. Instead, for th starter, I fitted a new relay near the front left headlight and then a new large red wire to that to carry the 30 Amps to the starter, the key then just operates the relay.
Did the same for the ignition ECU.
Car then started better than ever.
There is more detail in one of my articles.
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Finally starting to put my car back together. Looking for advice on the horrible clunking when opening passenger door. Check strap ( car side ) hole is elongated. Got a right angled drill head and flexible drill lead but still can't get in close enough to drill square. Any ideas would be great cheers
I would say the horrible clunk is caused mainly by dropped hinges/pins. I replaced mine last year and the doors really shut beautifully now (I should have done it years ago!) That check strap pin just knocks out from the top downwards from memory with a punch - no need to drill it.
Hi Alex thanks for the advice. The door pins are solid with no movement at all. The clunk happens when the check strap pin moves due to the elongated hole. I will use a punch to remove it and see if I can fit a bigger pin to stop it moving when opening. Cheers
Finally light at the end of the tunnel. The Raider is nearly finished. Last few bits to collect and fit. The only thing I can't get my hands on,is a gutter cap for rear passenger side. If anyone has one of these spare and willing to sell please message me. Thanks again for all the help over the last few months. Joining the sites been the best thing I have done
Matt Cole liked this post
Must be a great feeling coming to the end. Time to enjoy now.
Thanks Matt, going for a carb tune up next week, then detailers and that's it. I'll post some pictures soon.
Thought I'd upload some pictures since that's the car finished for now. It's been a hard slog but well worth it. Thanks to all that helped and gave advice. Special thanks to Dale aka Bigfoot, he was always a text away with loads of great advice. Hopefully at some point I'll build up the balls to drive it from Glasgow down to one of the meets. Thanks again
That looks awesome!! Well done for all the hard work. Enjoy!!
Hi all, I am looking for some help. My Mot is due asap and my Speedo has given up the ghost. I have checked top and bottom cable of Speedo, connection at air can and gearbox end. The speedo wouldnt work but sometimes jumped into life if you tapped dash binnacle at dial. Before i strip out speedo dial does anyone have any tips. Also my temp gauge sits dead on the bottom for ages and then only comes into life after the car has been running for about 20 minutes and even then doesn't show right temp. Any help would be amazing. Thanks
Oh and my petrol gauge is stuck at the top even when you disconnect from cables. New sender and cables been fitted. Thanks again
The speedo cable is in two parts. Check the gearbox sensor. Remove, clean, check o ring and push fully home. You can do a resistance test on the sensor also. Ivory and remember the values. The other half of cable is from a joint behind the airbox if I remember correctly. Clean with contact spray. I would do a continuity test from the plug on the back of the gauges. Lastly, clean the connects on the back of the clocks. Electrical contact spray and a light rub with a little sandpaper over the contacts can work wonders.
Thanks Matt
HELP!!!!! After the cracking summer the rain has finally returned. I foolishly left the car outside uncovered and the passenger side footwell is soaked. I traced the problem to the outer door window seal. I stripped the door cards off and the water is pouring in through seals like a fire hose. Does anyone know if any companies do replacement seals. I have checked the original partsnumber but as most Renault 5 parts ( no longer available). Any help would be great. Ps just renewed my membership ,this club has been invaluable over the last year. Thanks again
Matt Cole liked this post
Is the plastic sheet still in the door? This directed water that entered the door to the drain hole at the bottom instead of into the car. The actually door seals are available on eBay although will be pattern and sold off a roll. I'm not sure on the profile the gt uses but it wasnt anyrhing unusual.
Hi Matt, I watched the water run down off the wiper motor and splash into door card. Original door sheets were missing I replaced with ones I cut. They wouldn't have made any difference as ran through speaker into door seal and flooded foot well. Any idea where to look on ebay
Good thread here:
https://www.rtoc.org/boards/showthre...ght=Door+seals
Renault might still have stock:
https://www.rtoc.org/boards/showthre...ght=Door+seals
Hi Matt, thanks for the messages but it's the outer window seal on door I need not the actual door seals .I have replaced them with new ones. Thanks anyway
Ah ok sorry misinterpreted your question.
Hello all, looking for some advice again. As the car is off the road for the winter I am going to get a new clutch fitted and also get the gear box removed and inspected. I have two options. remove engine and get to clutch and gearbox that way or remove subframe and do it that way. My mate would be doing the removal and fitting of new clutch and rebuilt gearbox. the labour is about half to do via the subframe. I am just worried as I have been told lining things back up can be hard if done via subframe. Any help or suggestions would be great . Cheers Dougie
I have always removed from the subframe but if concerned make plenty of marks for refit if dropping subframe
Thanks DuncanI have always removed from the subframe but if concerned make plenty of marks for refit if dropping subframe
Hello everyone, does anyone have an idea where I could get new OUTER front door window seals. ( the seal that sits between door and glass as it slides up) any help with this would be great .Thanks
NLA new unfortunately. I managed to find a good used set a while back. I think that's the only option as it stands
Hello all and happy New year. I know it's a bit quiet on here now but hopefully some of you with have some advice. At my last mot garage recommended changing the front suspension and top mounts. I want to keep the car as standard as possible. When I do suspension I will be changing front and rear. Just looking for advice on best suspension and top mounts to use. Car is for road use only. Thanks
Did he mention why they needed changing? The top mounts are solid and shouldn't need changing unless they're rotten. There are some other components that might need changing/checking though, such as the bearings, rubber "donut" and top hat etc. It really depends what the fault is. If its for road use just replace whatever is needed with OE items.
Thanks for the answers. I'm meeting him next week to discuss. He might have meant components in top suspension mounts. Standard suspension would be great but all I can seem to find it coilovers. Oem parts are hard to find. Thanks again
I got suspension donuts, bearings and some other bits from Mr Auto. Came from France I recall.
Hi Matt , thanks for the help. I have managed to source the suspension parts buts looking for advice regarding springs.
The suppliers have gave me 4 options and I have no idea what ones would have been originally used on my Raider the choices are
1.mid green/grey
2.mid red
3.mid red/ yellow
4 mid red/ grey.
Any help as always will be greatly appreciated
Thanks
Dougie
Doug, are all them colour codes available? I would check before you waste your time researching. Generally they will be obsolete.
However, mist people go for a "sports" spring with a 35mm drop and the torsion bar adjusted to suit. This works very well for the ph2 5gtt. Alternatively, coil overs if you want freedom of adjustment.
Thanks again Matt for the quick reply. I was wanting to keep the car as original as possible and it's only for summer road use so decided against coilovers. I have seen various shortened springs but was hoping to keep the original ride height. Thanks again for the advice
As per Matt really. I dont know of anyone who has managed to get OE springs in the right length. Common thinking is that most springs supplied are longer, perhaps originally destined for a campus or similar. To be fair half the issue is no one actually knows how long the OE springs should be as they have all compressed over the years so there is no reference. Personally I've gone for slightly lowered as I wanted to fit brand new springs. If I was going 100% OE then I would be looking to get a good second hand set and having them powder coated.
Thanks again for the advice. Think the 35mm lowering springs are the way to go if I want brand new springs. Cheers for the help
Does anyone know what this jumper is for on the back of the dash cluster. I just noticed my dash cluster doesn t have it
Not sure actually?
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