Project Yellow Peril

[Woznaldo]

I have been asking around about custom made torsion bars and the Aussiefrogs website happen to be doing a group buy! The buy was set up for Peugeots but the company (don't know who it is?) will make any similar bar at up to 25mm thickness as that's the diameter of the stock bar.

The downside is the price. For a single set the RRP is A$1200!!!! but, with the group buy it will work out at A$700 a set. The Renaultpower sets work out at A$600 plus shipping so for me, it's about the same price.

I have found a different company myself but to get a quote I need to send them the specs or my TBs as a sample to take dimensions from.

https://www.rtoc.org/files/Miscellane...orsion_Bar.pdf

[Woznaldo]

Ordered a new Bosch fuel pump a couple of days ago, so should arrive sometime today. I was toying with the idea of fitting an 'uprated' pump but, haven't got the spare time at moment for experimentation.

I was getting lean AFR readings as the rpm climbed above 3500 that I didn't have before the pump leak. Once the pump is fitted, I'll go for a test run to re-establish an AFR baseline before making any adjustments.

[Woznaldo]

New pump arrived today in perfect condition. I'll get it fitted over the weekend, if not sooner.





Once it's fitted i'll get out and do some AFR runs.

[Woznaldo]

UPDATE:

I decided to raise the rear end a little as it was getting very annoying not be able to 'push on' in the twisties for fear of sudden bodywork contact and the detrimental effects on handling. Here's the before shot:


Here's the after shot although the different distances make it hard to compare. Probably about 15mm higher now:


I drove back to Sydney from Melbourne (850km) and only had contact a couple of times the entire 9hr journey and this was with all my bags and tools in the back. I think if I chuck the Doris rear damper bump stop mod on, I should be good to go.

I will service the carb this week as well as flush the cooling system (dish washer tablet method) and replace the water pump with a new reconditioned unit. Hoping the carb will be rid a couple of issues post rebuild. Time will tell?

[Woznaldo]

UPDATE

Serviced the carb and threw it back on but, haven't been out to check AFRs properly yet.

All nice and clean!


Also put on a new (recon'd) water pump (thanks BriC) in an attempt to bring the temp gauge back to centre, as it has been hovering around the 11 o'clock area when at sustained boost on the motorway at 65-75mph. Mainly the uphill sections.

Old Water Pump and Gasket removed from Head


New Water Pump fitted but, short belt FAIL.


When I changed the water pump I thought I'd try to fit a shorter belt (1155) but, there was no way that was going on, however, a new std belt (1180) made things look a lot better anyway!

[Woznaldo]

The car wouldn't idle at all after the carb service and I kind of hijacked Jimmy's thread on Accel Pump Problems:

https://www.rtoc.org/boards/showthread.php?t=16756

Turned out to be the washer under the head of the Idle Jet screw head being perished. Always something simple!

I'll will now try to go out and get some AFRs for the current carb set-up to assess whether I need to make some adjustments.

Tomorrow I'll be heading into Sydney for the All French Car Day 2010 with my son to see how many people I can get excited about my 'very rare' GTT!

[Woznaldo]

I went to the All French Car Day in Sydney yesterday and was quite surprised by the interest the Yellow Peril received whilston display! It's no show pony but it seemed curiousity got the better of people.

It was the only GTT there but there were a few interesting cars there. A couple of GTAs, an A610, an R5 Turbo 2, R8 Gordini, an old school Alpine that has run in Targa Tasmania, a couple of RS Meggies and a few 172/182 Clio.

Photos below:

[Trevhib]

Smart, you're on the scene finally

As for your suspension Woz, it's driving me crazy! Looking at how much you've lowered the car there's no way it should have needed raising to avoid what was happening. I've seen hundreds of GTTs lowered the same and more (and all my three were lower) where even with weight in the back, haven't behaved anything like what your pics show.

If the rear beam is correct, I can only assume there's a problem with your shocks/bars. If you're happy with it the way it is now though and it handles as good as it ought to, then I guess it's not worth worrying about.

[Woznaldo]

Thanks Trev, yes it's good to finally meet a few peeps in person.

Re the suspension, I'm going to measure the diameter of the torsion bars I've just got to make sure they're not Campus versions?!

In my first GTT I had 5 people in the car and drove to the German Beer Festival and back without a single issue?

I'm seriously thinking about turreting the rear and running a light assister spring to give me the choice of rear spring rates above STD. Winston had this set up on his 'holey 5'.

[Trevhib]

Smart.

Will you be ok with the Aussie SVA/MOT standards people if you modify the rear suspension to that degree though? It would be rubbish to be doing a second iteration of that dreadful loop

[Woznaldo]

Smart.

Will you be ok with the Aussie SVA/MOT standards people if you modify the rear suspension to that degree though? It would be rubbish to be doing a second iteration of that dreadful loop

Yes I would but, only in that area for that mod, all the rest would remain current, so not too bad.

[Woznaldo]

After a top day out at the All French Car Day in Sydney last Sunday, I went home to prepare for the drive south to Melbourne on the Monday. After setting off and getting just shy of Yass (3hrs into the journey), the car started to hesitate. I nursed the car to Yass services (carefully watching my AFR gauge!) to check what had happened.

On opening the bonnet, it was apparent that the idle mixture screw had vibrated itself free and fallen out! Knowing that a spare part may be 6000 miles away, I tried to fix up a bodge repair using some fuel hose squeezed over the idle mixture screw orifice, with a bolt clamped in the other end but, decided to have another hunt around the top of the intake manifold for said screw. To my amazement, I found the little blighter hiding under a bracket!!!

Mixture screw refitted, idle readjusted and fuel hose bodgey fitted over the top for extra security, I continued on my journey to Melbourne without any further incident. I still have a few tweaks to carry out on the carb to get it fuelling a bit better but, the car is performing well for now.

[Kris M]

Woz, renault sell a little tamper proof bung that stops the mixture screw coming out

Some people use a small blob of silicone aswell ( not everones cup of tea though as it can be difficult to remove afterwards )

[Woznaldo]

Woz, renault sell a little tamper proof bung that stops the mixture screw coming out

Some people use a small blob of silicone aswell ( not everones cup of tea though as it can be difficult to remove afterwards )

Thanks Kris, I hooked out the original when I did the carb service but, will have to get a new one soon.

[Kris M]

Ive got no problem ordering you one from Renault and posting it out to you mate if you want ?

[Woznaldo]

Pictures added to post #107 of the All French Car Day 2010.

[Woznaldo]

Ive got no problem ordering you one from Renault and posting it out to you mate if you want ?

Thanks for the offer Kris, I might take you up on that.

[Woznaldo]

As part of my master plan I'll be adding MegaSquirt EFI (MS1-Extra) but, to make things easier, I will fit the ECU and Ignition parts first while I mock up the Alliance Manifold and injection looms. This way I can run mappable ignition on it's own and play with the different settings until the EFI parts are ready.

The master plan took a step closer to completion today when I received my 36-1 Trigger Wheel Kit from Scoff (many thanks ). A few picks of the kit and some other EFI/Ignition parts:



Ford EDIS4 (Electronic Distributorless Ignition System 4 cylinder varient) Controller & Coil Pack:



My MegaSquirt 1 running MS-Extra (12x12 tables) and the MS Stimulator (the 9v battery simulates the cars 12v battery as 9v is more than enough for the ECU to test different configurations):



I don't actually need this GM 3 Bar Map Sensor for the EFI set up as my MegaSquirt ECU is fitted with it's own 400KPa Map Sensor (means I can map for 38psi) but, I'm going to use it for data logging with the LM1 until the ECU is up and running.

[Wallace]

Pictures added to post #107 of the All French Car Day 2010.

Some lovely looking motors there

Where in Sydney was that? - is it held every year?

May have to arrange a trip to my brothers around this event

[Woznaldo]

It's held every year around the same time (mid july) and for the last couple of years has been held at Silverwater Park in Silverwater, Sydney. It's a fairly small show, especially by UK standards but, still enjoyable all the same.

It's normally advertised through the Aussiefrogs website www.aussiefrogs.com

[Wallace]

Cheers for that

Shame i'll probably miss it, planning on a mid March visit due to my work and his, but you never know!

[Woznaldo]

A small update (and I do mean small!)

I've fitted the "Scoff 36-1 Trigger Wheel VR Sensor and Mounting Bracket". Just bolted it on and put my sensor loom roughly up to my relay board. Just a couple of pics:





Also roughly laid the trigger wheel on my spare crank pulley to see where I could tack weld them together.



A small tack in the inside of each of the five windows would be more than enough to hold them together and shouldn't upset the balance.

[Woznaldo]

UPDATE

I've been very busy at work and haven't had a lot of time to get much done but, over the couple of days I've slowly started piecing some EFI bits together. The Alliance Manifold that I have looked a bit small for my needs and after looking at the Valver Throttle Body in Harri's project thread, I decided to go down that route.

Old Throttle Body

New Throttle Body

Area on Alliance Manifold that needs to be opened up

Throttle Body mounting face after milling action. Still needs to be finished off as we did the milling freehand and left some meat there for finishing purposes.


The Alliance Manifold studs were a little bit short for the Valver Throttle Body so I had to get some longer ones (5mm longer).

[Woznaldo]

Still got a fair bit to do:

-Make up loom from Megasquirt ECU to Relay Board
-Make up loom from Relay Board to Engine
-Acquire decent FPR and mount to Fuel Rail
-Buy some injectors (looking at 'Green Giants' 0280 155 968)
-Make/adapt some HT leads
-Mount Coil Pack
-Weld Crank Pulley to Boss and Trigger Wheel to Crank Pulley

Obvious choices for FPRs are Turbosmart or SARD but what are Tomei like?

[Logg]

Good going fella.

[Woznaldo]

Today I managed to pick up a fire damaged RS Clio 172 for a song. The owner had a tank slapper and ended up going into a tree! The top of the engine is pretty much scrap but everything below the head looks usable.

What I think I can salvage from the suspension:

-Hubs
-Discs
-Calipers
-Driveshafts
-Wishbones
-Anti-Roll Bar (although completely unusable on a 5 due to the kink in it)

The rear end is perfect, including near new rear discs. I know the rear beam won't bolt straight up but, I'm going to have a look at what's involved.

Not sure how I will mount the right hand driveshaft as it has the inboard bearing support that bolts to the 172 block.

The track on the 172 is 1430mm compared to the std GTT 1323mm so, 53.2mm extra track per side. That's going to need some kind of arch extension to cover the wheels up and I'm not keen on buying anything off the shelf just yet. I'm going to have a play with making my own carbon/GRP efforts after using clay as a design tool. (Note that this is a very slow project so don't expect much until at least next year!)

I going to strip off anything else off the 172 to flog on to make a bit of cash to inject into my project for the EFI parts I need.

I'll add some pics of the 172 soon. (not that it's a looker anymore )

[markey b]

Woz, renault sell a little tamper proof bung that stops the mixture screw coming out

Some people use a small blob of silicone aswell ( not everones cup of tea though as it can be difficult to remove afterwards )

i use a chewed up rizla.... poke it in the hole and it makes a semi permanant cap that can be removed if needed

[Harri]

UPDATE

I've been very busy at work and haven't had a lot of time to get much done but, over the couple of days I've slowly started piecing some EFI bits together. The Alliance Manifold that I have looked a bit small for my needs and after looking at the Valver Throttle Body in Harri's project thread, I decided to go down that route.

.

Good choice, just be careful when modifying the throttle body to suit silicon hose if you decide to do similar connection as I did. Or did you have something else in mind?

[Woznaldo]

I would like to make a bolt on adaptor so I don't need to modify the Throttle Body but it will have to seal well and hold boost pressure. What are the adaptors like that come with some of these induction kits for the Clio 16v?

[Harri]

I have green cotton filter in my clio, so I can check when I have time. I think it was just rubber seal and the filter was then tightened with hose clamp.

[Harri]

I have green cotton filter in my clio, so I can check when I have time. I think it was just rubber seal and the filter was then tightened with hose clamp.

Check out the pictures, if you are planning on having 10 inch boost pipes then you could use the green cotton filter adapter Actually I didn't check if the black adaptor part is steel or not. You could cut some extra off and maybe weld proper sized piping there?

[Woznaldo]

Many thanks Harri!

I going to have a go at making my own adaptor. I just need to employ some TIG welding expertise! Just so happens, I know just the man....

[Woznaldo]

UPDATE 2012!

I haven't had too much time during the last year to get any EFI work done, so I thought I'd take the opportunity over the Christmas break to make some inroads.

I needed to open up a hole in the bulkhead to pass the MegaSquirt ECU loom through to connect with the new MegaSquirt Relay Board.


Once a trial run was conducted to get the correct loom length, I held my breath and cut off the excess


Once the loom was through I then had to solder on the DB37 Plug to the Relay Board end of the loom. This needs a Multimeter to confirm that you have the correct wire going to the correct pin.


A slow process but, one worth taking your time on.



I've also made a start on the EFI Engine Loom but won't be able to finish until I've got the manifold in place for the best fitment.


While the dash was out I decided to get rid of some more excess weight!




As some of the more astute people will have noticed, the dash removal didn't quite go to plan, with all three top mount bars snapping off and staying in their respective bulkhead clips! (second dash picture). This means a few repairs will be needed before I can put the dash back in....

I still need a few bits and pieces but at least the ball is rolling. I'm back to work on Monday and I'm pretty sure that I'll be using the Pedal Pusher for a little while!!!

More to follow as I progress.

[Woznaldo]

OK, did a bit more today and finally got the loom all done, bar the final tidying.

Here's the EFI Loom hooked up to the Relay Board. I trimmed the wires to different lengths so that the loom naturally lays to the right and doesn't strain the wires and plug pins.


Next I pulled off the Carb and Intake Manifold to trial fit the Alliance Manifold. I have to admit that it looks like it was meant to be there!


The only issues that I can see so far are that the lower half of the Alliance Manifold has what looks like some kind of 'heat exchanger' that would have been used with the original Exhaust Manifold and I'll have to incorporate an IAT Sensor somewhere.

Here's the lower half of the Alliance Manifold casting.




I was worried that there may be contact with my O2 Sensor but even that is all sweet! The MAP Sensor vacuum take off and the Brake Servo take off can also be seen.


Like I said in my previous post, I still need a few bits and pieces (see below):

-Injectors (prefer Green Giants (0280 155 968) but will be happy with Red Tops (0280 150 341))
-Fuel Pressure Regulator (Tomei is looking like the best quality/value compromise)
-IAT Sensor (open element GM type with a metric thread would be best)
-Throttle Cable Mount Plate (I'll make my own)
-HT Leads (There are a few companies that either make up custom leads or supply the plugs to do your own)
-Connecting Boost Pipe (to throttle body)
-ECU Mounting Plate (I was thinking about mounting it in the Stereo slot...)

I'm really happy with the recent progress and will hopefully be in a position soon to fire it up on EFI!!

[Woznaldo]

Before I pulled the car apart, I was experiencing a little loss of power. While pulling the Carb Elbow off, I found out why.....


All becomes clear!

[Harri]

-Injectors (prefer Green Giants (0280 155 968) but will be happy with Red Tops (0280 150 341))

Good idea, I've also been looking for upgrade to my Bosch 360CC redtops after changing the fuel to ethanol. 440CC should be quite ok for my needs.

Intake manifold really looks like it was meant to be there OE.

[Woznaldo]

I've been having a crack at making a Throttle Cable Linkage (for the cable conduit to push against), something I had forgotten all about I might be able to combine the boost hose adaptor but not sure? Open to suggestions.

I made it out of 7075 T6 that I had some offcuts of at work. Not Finished yet but a start. This is the plate with a couple of angles out on to it for stiffness.


This is the plate sitting on the Throttle Body


Here you can get an idea of where the cable will run


The throttle cable will run through a hole somewhere in the corner with the aid of a few bicycle brake parts


I'll get some more pics up as it progresses.

[Woznaldo]

I also finally got around tacking the Crank Pulley Boss to the Crank Pulley in preparation for fitting the Scoff 36-1 Trigger Wheel



I'll get the trigger wheel aligned once I have No.1 piston at TDC.

[Os8472]

Little tip fella, with no.1 at tdc the woodrough key way should be pointing straight up

[Woznaldo]

Little tip fella, with no.1 at tdc the woodrough key way should be pointing straight up

Thanks Olly, at least that will put me in the right ball park.

[Harri]

I've been having a crack at making a Throttle Cable Linkage (for the cable conduit to push against), something I had forgotten all about I might be able to combine the boost hose adaptor but not sure? Open to suggestions.

I made it out of 7075 T6 that I had some offcuts of at work. Not Finished yet but a start. This is the plate with a couple of angles out on to it for stiffness.


This is the plate sitting on the Throttle Body

Here you can get an idea of where the cable will run


The throttle cable will run through a hole somewhere in the corner with the aid of a few bicycle brake parts


I'll get some more pics up as it progresses.

Looking good and bit familiar. Did you figure out the wiring for the TPS?

[Woznaldo]

Harri, Scoff gave me a lesson on how to find which wire is what on the TPS, so I've got it sorted.

What I need to finish the throttle body cable plate/boost pipe adaptor is some 7075 (non T6) tube reducer that I can play around with and then do the heat treatment.

[Woznaldo]

As mentioned in an earlier post, my Dashboard requires a few repairs and as I was stuck at work over the weekend, I thought I'd get cracking.

Here's the underside of the fwd edge of the Dash with the three fwd mounting bars. I've rested the LH bar on what's left of the original plastic bracket.


You can see in this pic where the mounting bar has failed. The aluminium plates are actually from a previous repair.


Here's what I ended up making, although it needs tidying up a fair bit.


Here's the new bracket sitting in position.


The centre mount is a bit different and I think I'll need to change the design and remove some more of the original dash to get the width I need.




Obviously I've taken a few measurements during this process and I'm probably going to have a go at making my own carbon dash sometime in the future.

[Harri]

Obviously I've taken a few measurements during this process and I'm probably going to have a go at making my own carbon dash sometime in the future.

Yes, you should. What kind of finish are you aiming at? matt? polished?

[Woznaldo]

I haven't thought that far forward yet! I'd probably try one in aluminium first and then make a mould from that?

[Woznaldo]

UPDATE

OK, I've done a little bit more with the EFI install, mainly ignition related. I decided to whip something together out of stainless steel to mount the Ford EDIS Coil Pack. Whip is a bit of an understatement as I rushed it and it's a bit rough around the edges. Functional none the less.



Next task was to make up some HT Leads that would connect to the original Spark Plugs and the Ford EDIS Coil Pack. I bought a kit off eBay from a guy called Nige who is one of the nicest people I've dealt with period. Here's his website.

http://www.megasquirt-v8.co.uk/index.php

The kit was supplied with 3m of Carbon Core Silicon HT Cable (I paid extra for 5m), the connectors to be crimped to the ends and the rubber boots including the special EDIS Coil Pack type. Here's a pic:



The kit was supplied with blue HT cable but I wanted a colour the better suited to the car so got another 5m of HT Cable in black and yellow but with a copper core. The finished HT lead looks like this:



Here's a couple of pics with the new HT Leads hooked up to the EDIS Coil Pack on it's new mounting bracket. Doesn't look the best as there are a load of other pipes and wires that are still disconnected but, you get the idea.







Overall I'm very please with the result but, the proof is in the pudding so let's hope it all works when it's time to fire it up!

[Tony Walker]

Looks great i think im going to be collecting my EFI parts soon.

[Woznaldo]

UPDATE

Not too much to report at the moment other than a couple of purchases I've made and trying to make the EFI installation a bit neater.

Finally got an FPR. Wanted something decent but wasn't prepared to pay the prices for them. Finally saw an Aeromotive A1000 come up on eBay Motors and got it for a reasonable amount, complete with pressure gauge.



Also tried to tidy up the EFI Looms that pass into the engine bay. The problem I had was the size of the plugs are quite large and therefore (without de-pinning the plugs) the holes passing through the bulkhead had to be quite large (38mm dia). One solution was to use something from 'Seals-it' http://www.sealsit.com/firewall.asp but the prices are quite steep (50-70 quid!).

What I went with in the end was some large blank grommets which where a couple of quid each and punch a hole to match the dia of the loom. I will then make a slit from the centre to the edge.

Here's a few pics of the bulkhead being drilled and the grommet blanks before punching any holes in them.

This is where the main Engine EFI Loom will pass through:


This is where the O2 Sensor and Coil Pack Looms will pass through:




These are the O2 Sensor and Coil Pack Plugs:


Still have a bit to do, like sorting the throttle cable and the boost pipe run but, getting there slowly.

[Harri]

Look good, its getting there but one quick question, why did you decide to use adjustable FPR?

[Woznaldo]

Look good, its getting there but one quick question, why did you decide to use adjustable FPR?

Two reasons really, one to ensure that the pressure is set to where I want it and two, to give me the option to play with the pressure as a tuning option in the future (probably won't ever need it).