Fluffy is getting on my tits

Just shortened my downpipe by an inch re-fitted and went out for a test drive over some speed humps - great - clears them no problem. Then she cuts out and won't start again FFS.

I think the ecu might be playing up, and as such I can't see how I'm going to get her to national day next week. I must be doing something wrong:confused: Last year I set off and broke down half way there and was rescued by JP.

Pissed off don't even come close.

JP's offered his ECU (adaptronic) to prove that it is the ecu which is great, but if it does need looking at, there is very little chance I can get it over to Scoff (if he can do anything with it????) and get it back on ol Fluff and get to the 10th year anniversary.

Anyone with any miracles - please step up now.

its not common for the ecu's to be at fault, suppose you could try re flashing the map over, and trying the other ecu first to confirm it is that and if so a speedy parcel to scoff.
anything knocked about while fitting the downpipe, earths etc?
is the ecu secured properly? wondering if the speed humps are a pointer to something loose?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Haz

its not common for the ecu's to be at fault, suppose you could try re flashing the map over, and trying the other ecu first to confirm it is that and if so a speedy parcel to scoff.
anything knocked about while fitting the downpipe, earths etc?
is the ecu secured properly? wondering if the speed humps are a pointer to something loose?

---

Hi Haz - I know what you mean, I've not heard of an ECU going tits up at all, so I'm kind of open minded on this. I've tried loading an older version of my map, I'm waiting for Scoff to send me a copy of my ECU file so that I can have another go. I'll have a look tomorrow at cables etc, but tbh - there is very little going that way.

I await JP if he can help. I've got feelers out on Adaptronics forum as the ECU's led's are acting strange.

well if scoff's on the case then nothing much i can offer lol. i'm led to beleive some things can upset the ecu like low battery turnin ecu off as it cranks, and in doin so is like turning a computer on, then off before it loads up, then again and again with each crank so can end up corrupting the file. obviously not the fault here but they can do strange things. i'm sure that the random led's can be a processor fault. have you the software to check that the ecu is still talking to the laptop while waiting on the file?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Haz

well if scoff's on the case then nothing much i can offer lol. i'm led to beleive some things can upset the ecu like low battery turnin ecu off as it cranks, and in doin so is like turning a computer on, then off before it loads up, then again and again with each crank so can end up corrupting the file. obviously not the fault here but they can do strange things. i'm sure that the random led's can be a processor fault. have you the software to check that the ecu is still talking to the laptop while waiting on the file?

---

Yup - it's talking alright, Ive been looking for all sorts through the laptop and I've had the jump leads on to rule out low voltage, as it did sound like it was dropping out at one point. Grrrrr - why this week?

That's no good Andy. :cry:

Does the car turn over?
Injector getting 12v?
Timing wheel not slipped?
Coil pack getting 12v and given spark?
Fuel pump still working?
New manifold and downpipe combo not melted your starter wireing?

Does the car turn over? - Yup
Injector getting 12v? - yup
Timing wheel not slipped? - Not checked - will check
Coil pack getting 12v and given spark? - no
Fuel pump still working? - yes
New manifold and downpipe combo not melted your starter wireing?[/QUOTE] - no

:confused:

Check your ecu earth, if it's loose or iffy it could mess everything up

Do the Injectors click when you fire them in test mode?

Is there a way of checking the coil pack is getting a signal from the ecu telling it to fire while cranking? Anyone local to you with the same coil pack you could try?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Os8472

Check your ecu earth, if it's loose or iffy it could mess everything up

---

Good earth:agree:

They are all on 1 bolt

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Logg

Do the Injectors click when you fire them in test mode?

Is there a way of checking the coil pack is getting a signal from the ecu telling it to fire while cranking? Anyone local to you with the same coil pack you could try?

---

No the injectors don't click in test mode, it all goes a bit funny when I try to do that - the fuel pump runs then no clicks, and it keeps doing this over and over and freezes, the only way to stop it is to turn the ignition off.

The chap from the RAC checked the feeds / earth to the coil and said everything was fine apart from any signals of any description coming from the ecu. The trigger wheel pick-up is sending voltage to the ECU but nothing is coming out.

I'm a bit perplexed.

I've checked the trigger wheel and that's ok. When piston 1 is at TDC, the gap is about 90 deg past tdc on the trigger.

That's don't sound good at all. :scratch: the issue must be in the ecu or the wiring then. :(

I've a carb for sale of that's any help. :scared:

LOL - I've got a box of em here, and I keep looking at them:laugh:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by TNT ANDY

LOL - I've got a box of em here, and I keep looking at them:laugh:

---

Lol

F7p ftw :agree:

crank sensor? Does the Adaptronic have a diagnostic screen so you can review sensor errors?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Ashy

crank sensor? Does the Adaptronic have a diagnostic screen so you can review sensor errors?

---

I've only got a few and yes I can see them and they look to be doing what they are supposed to.

Has Ross got a coil pack you can use to test?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by TNT ANDY

I've only got a few and yes I can see them and they look to be doing what they are supposed to.

---

A few CPS errors? might be worth resetting the log then taking it for a run. if it clocks the errors as it cuts out or misses you might be onto something?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Ashy

A few CPS errors? might be worth resetting the log then taking it for a run. if it clocks the errors as it cuts out or misses you might be onto something?

---

:laugh: I can't get it to run, Scoff is helping me also via e-mail and I've just checked my voltage at the ecu whilst cranking and I'm only getting 9.8v. Time to start poking around there.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by TNT ANDY

:laugh: I can't get it to run, Scoff is helping me also via e-mail and I've just checked my voltage at the ecu whilst cranking and I'm only getting 9.8v. Time to start poking around there.

---

That's abit odd, with nothing else on other than the ignition you should have 12v. I know you said the earth was tight but just to be on the safe side run a temp earth and live and see what happens

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by TNT ANDY

:laugh: I can't get it to run, Scoff is helping me also via e-mail and I've just checked my voltage at the ecu whilst cranking and I'm only getting 9.8v. Time to start poking around there.

---

These ecu'a don't like low voltage.. It gave me loads of problems a couple of months ago! If the lights on the ecu are dim and all coming on that's where the problem will lay

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Os8472

That's abit odd, with nothing else on other than the ignition you should have 12v. I know you said the earth was tight but just to be on the safe side run a temp earth and live and see what happens

---

Just done that - 10.3v whilst cranking now still no gogo.
:cry:

I would assume either your battery is finished or your starter.. Mind what sort of size cable you using for your temp cable? And type

Andy its unlikely to be the ECU itself. 10.3v is borderline for the ECU to run without resetting. What voltage do you see across the battery when cranking ? If that's considerably higher than 10.3v then there is some loss in your ignition wiring. You could try taking the ECU live straight from the battery for a test start. If the battery is dropping to 10.3v then battery or starter as mentioned.

Did you remember to upgrade your wari version like I said ? If you're using an old version of software with your now updated firmware then maybe you have corrupted the map. You need wari V10 at least. I can email the map file but it is at the workshop right now. I can send it tonight if that helps. ?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Dave Reed

These ecu'a don't like low voltage.. It gave me loads of problems a couple of months ago! If the lights on the ecu are dim and all coming on that's where the problem will lay

---

Cheers Dave - I can't get it to go with another car hooked up and running. At my battery the voltage drops to just below 12v when cranking so that's ok.

:confused::confused::confused:Totally!

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Scoff

Andy its unlikely to be the ECU itself. 10.3v is borderline for the ECU to run without resetting. What voltage do you see across the battery when cranking ? If that's considerably higher than 10.3v then there is some loss in your ignition wiring. You could try taking the ECU live straight from the battery for a test start. If the battery is dropping to 10.3v then battery or starter as mentioned.

Did you remember to upgrade your wari version like I said ? If you're using an old version of software with your now updated firmware then maybe you have corrupted the map. You need wari V10 at least. I can email the map file but it is at the workshop right now. I can send it tonight if that helps. ?

---

Hi Chris - no I didn't upgrade to V10 - I'll do that now and that would be great if you could send the ecu file over later. Don't make a special journey - just next time your in the workshop. Thanks

Across the battery, I'm seeing 11.9 whilst cranking - I'm losing a bit through the wiring, but I did connect directly from the battery to no avail.

Andy

BTW - Turbo Teds car :agree:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Dave Reed

I would assume either your battery is finished or your starter.. Mind what sort of size cable you using for your temp cable? And type

---

I'm using jump leads from the battery to the ecu area, and jumping from them with a pair of 300mm .75mm jumper leads.

I think the starter and battery are fine as I'm still getting 11.9v when cranking at the battery terminals

I still have one of your maps too if it helps think it's an older one but let me know if you need it :) also I'm out today but if you can wait till tomorrow I could up load that map to my ecu and be at yours early to try my ecu to rule it out :) if it's faultily I need to pop to the post office tomorrow so could get it away in the morning for you. What time do you start work as I could be too you for 6 if needed too :) also if it don't go you will defo know it's something else :) and we also have loads of time to sort it out before national day we just need a day or 2 ;) :coffee:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by JP Racing

I still have one of your maps too if it helps think it's an older one but let me know if you need it :) also I'm out today but if you can wait till tomorrow I could up load that map to my ecu and be at yours early to try my ecu to rule it out :) if it's faultily I need to pop to the post office tomorrow so could get it away in the morning for you. What time do you start work as I could be too you for 6 if needed too :) also if it don't go you will defo know it's something else :) and we also have loads of time to sort it out before national day we just need a day or 2 ;) :coffee:

---

Hi JP - things could get complicated now for both of us. I have V10 Firmware on my ecu, I now have Wari 10 on my Laptop. What do you have on your ecu and laptop? If it's 10, great. if not then we may be introducing problems for you which we don't wan't. there may be a way round this to test it out, but I'm not aware of one.

I have v10 firmware too so no issues there and think I have the latest version of wari too ;)

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by JP Racing

I have v10 firmware too so no issues there and think I have the latest version of wari too ;)

---

phew! - I think after scoff sends me my file and I upload it, it may be worth trying out your ecu.

Once you have the file just email it to me and I will upload it :)

:agree:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by JP Racing

Once you have the file just email it to me and I will upload it :)

---

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by TNT ANDY

Cheers Dave - I can't get it to go with another car hooked up and running. At my battery the voltage drops to just below 12v when cranking so that's ok.

:confused::confused::confused:Totally!

---

Can you take the batt of the other car just to test? What the lights on the ecu doing when your cranking?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Dave Reed

Can you take the batt of the other car just to test? What the lights on the ecu doing when your cranking?

---

I can take the battery off the other car if need be, the lights on the ecu where flashing brightly in no particular order. Once stopped, 1 or 2 would remain brightly lit, but again there is no pattern.

still confused.:confused:

That's all very well - but where do I stick the flux capacitor?
:coffee:

To be frank - I bet the answer is actually in there, and I'm just too dumb to sort it out!
:sad:

Hmmmm the man speaks perfect sense so I think I will try what he said ;)

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by TNT ANDY

I can take the battery off the other car if need be, the lights on the ecu where flashing brightly in no particular order. Once stopped, 1 or 2 would remain brightly lit, but again there is no pattern.

still confused.:confused:

---

That is the ecu resetting because of low volts andy. Did you manage to test cranking with 11.9v on the ECU ? You jumpered live and earth didn't you ? Just live won't show up a poor earth, incase it's that.

I came home for some lunch after a long day with a problematic car, I need to go back and do another couple of hours, I'll try to remember to bring your file home.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Scoff

That is the ecu resetting because of low volts andy. Did you manage to test cranking with 11.9v on the ECU ? You jumpered live and earth didn't you ? Just live won't show up a poor earth, incase it's that.

I came home for some lunch after a long day with a problematic car, I need to go back and do another couple of hours, I'll try to remember to bring your file home.

---

Hi Chris - I've cranked it over this morning, the ecu did not re-set this morning but still no start. If you can get the file over before 6 today that would be great as JP can get over with his ECU and swap over if the ecu file doesn't sort it out.

Sounds to me like you need more fuel.... Liberally spread over the engine & the rest of the car... Then a match to finish :laugh: :wasntme:

Hope you get it sorted mate!! ;)

Are you seeing RPM in the F2 window when cranking ? And does the other data stay live when cranking (watch battery voltage on F2 window) or does it disapear as if you unplugged the ECU ?)

I emailed the ECU file just now :)

As far as i know scoff Andy had no rpm showing in the live window and also the injectors didn't work while being tested :/

can i ask something very stupid and highly unlikely, by chance could all the impacts from speedramps have jolted something loose in the ecu itself? :cartman::rolleyes:

Hmmm mm it's a strange one but fluffy is running again :) not sure if the problem is sorted or just hidden again :scared: only time will tell :)

Ahh glad to hear it! hopefully she's sorted and will be good to go for the weekend :)

Well andy tidied a few cables up and re loaded the map and gave the ecu it's own power source and it was running put it back to how it was and it ran fine still :) so not really sure what the cause was so hopefully a few gentle laps near andys is needed to test it out :)

A massive thanks to Scoff and JP and also the lads over in Oz (adaptronic) , I don't think I've seen the last of these gremlins, but I think I may have found 1 or 2 weak spots which I will be sorting out over the next few days.

JP popping over was invaluable to better understand some of the original wiring as was the info fom both Scoff and Adaptronic.

Tried again this morning without issue. Brilliant - I'll be replacing a few relays and go from there.

Happy days.......sort of.
:crap:

Well done mate, glad you got her up and running again.. It's times like this when you wish you still had the carb and dissy in place lol.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Dave Reed

Well done mate, glad you got her up and running again.. It's times like this when you wish you still had the carb and dissy in place lol.

---

Cheers Dave - I'll be getting a few local miles on her b4 Nat day.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Scoff

Are you seeing RPM in the F2 window when cranking ? And does the other data stay live when cranking (watch battery voltage on F2 window) or does it disapear as if you unplugged the ECU ?)

I emailed the ECU file just now :)

---

To go back a few steps - and I can't remember if I let you know this via e-mail or not, but the sometimes it stayed connected, sometimes it didn't , but when it did, the F2 window showed RPM.

Right - got out for a few hard miles with Ol' Fluffy last night - went like a dream, didn't miss a beat and I'm pretty confident I've seen the last of the silly gremlins I've been experiencing. Just needs a bit of a clean up, pack up and away we go. Can't wait for tomorrow.

Thanks everyone for your suggestions - collectively - we got it sorted.:agree::agree::agree:

Decided to look further into possible problems, most noteably my overly tappetty C1J. So tonight I started stripping her down and here's what I've found.

There is a bit of damage to 1 or 2 followers, number 6 being the worst......


https://www.rtoc.org/files/Miscellane...2/DSCF4024.JPG


As shown there. I've no idea why it would do this but a few have. Also the tappets at that end are showing a bit of ........

https://www.rtoc.org/files/Miscellane...2/DSCF4016.JPG

Again, not too sure why this has happened but it has. Not the best picture, sorry.

It will be interesting to have a look at the cam and see what shape that is. I'll be doing this in the evenings and try to keep up with the posts.

Engine will be out soon so that I can fit my new flywheel and clutch, just need to have the flywheel assembly balanced before it goes in.

Whilst she's all apart, I'll be fitting the new tubular manifold, helix 6 paddle and 172 flywheel to re-locate the pickup for the EFI and get rid of the trigger wheel..

Take off the .........

https://www.rtoc.org/files/Miscellane...2/DSCF4025.JPG

And fit the ....


https://www.rtoc.org/files/Miscellane...2/DSCF4026.JPG


And tonight we'll finish like......



https://www.rtoc.org/files/Miscellane...2/DSCF4027.JPG

Andy looks great pal. How much did you give for that manifold and where from if you don't mind me asking??

Is it Glenn's old one?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by GT Josh

Andy looks great pal. How much did you give for that manifold and where from if you don't mind me asking??

---

No it's not Glenns old one, a chap called Markey B sold it to me, can't remember how much now as it was a while ago and I bought it with some other bits. Wasn't much though, he never charges member a lot for stuff.

Ah ok bud looks great :agree:

That cam follower is proper mashed lol. :smokin:

Maybe the tappy(large gap) has caused the follower rocker damage crashing into each other?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Tony Walker

Maybe the tappy(large gap) has caused the follower rocker damage crashing into each other?

---

Not too sure tbh - never seen this b4, I'll have to replace the damaged followers and possibly replace the rocker shaft assembly, go from there. I'll gap as per book @ 20/25 in/exh. Got Oli (aka Ipswich) on the hunt for some spare followers. I'm going to remove a valve also as it looks like my valve spring seats don't look as though they have been relieved, I'll be getting that done if not.

What do you mean releaved? Give the spring more clearance?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Tony Walker

What do you mean releaved? Give the spring more clearance?

---

Exactly that.

The damage could well be just old followers.. Most cam peeps suggest new followers with a new cam.. Looks more like incorrect tappet adjustment to me.

Unfortunately your cam is going to be fooked.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by TNT ANDY

Not too sure tbh - never seen this b4, I'll have to replace the damaged followers and possibly replace the rocker shaft assembly, go from there. I'll gap as per book @ 20/25 in/exh. Got Oli (aka Ipswich) on the hunt for some spare followers. I'm going to remove a valve also as it looks like my valve spring seats don't look as though they have been relieved, I'll be getting that done if not.

---

andy, i'm pretty sure i've got spare followers and a rocker assembly if you get stuck... dont forget i'm the 'king of det' so like to keep some spares in stock :laugh:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Dave Reed

Exactly that.

The damage could well be just old followers.. Most cam peeps suggest new followers with a new cam.. Looks more like incorrect tappet adjustment to me.

Unfortunately your cam is going to be fooked.

---

I think you might well be right on all counts Dave - I hope my cam is fooked so it forces me to get a decent one instead of the worlds ****est 285 (re-profiled @ 129deg FFS) I bought new followers when I installed the cam many moons ago and followed the installation including the 20 min 200rpm run in. I did run for many years with the wrong gapping in the tappets due to a set of incorrectly marked up feeler guages if you can believe that.

I'm gonna stick in a few new followers and see how we get on.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by markey b

andy, i'm pretty sure i've got spare followers and a rocker assembly if you get stuck... dont forget i'm the 'king of det' so like to keep some spares in stock :laugh:

---

Thanks for that det king - I have Oli coming over on Monday with some followers, I have a spare rocker assy' I'll have a look and see if it's in good nick or not.

Feeling the lurve.

If Oli takes your crank and intercooler, will that make it any easier getting it back to you?

new cam and followers ,and possibly new pushrods:scratch:

ouch!!!! thats going to be expensive:cry:

The woes of pushing these engines. Just as I reached the 200bhp mark it broke :crap:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by HAndy

new cam and followers ,and possibly new pushrods:scratch:

ouch!!!! thats going to be expensive:cry:

---

probably not as much as I lost in the casino last night LOL:wasntme:

Big thanks to Oli popping over last night with the followers, after seeing the damage to my cam and looking about a bit, it looks like simply putting a new cam with old followers is not the way to go. I'd like to be convinced otherwise, but I'm not too sure.

The cam is mullered with a fair amount of missing lobe on the edges of 8, 6 and 4. The middles look ok but there is a shocking amount missing from the edges. I'll post up pictures when I've got the engine out, should be tomorrow all being well.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by TNT ANDY

Big thanks to Oli popping over last night with the followers, after seeing the damage to my cam and looking about a bit, it looks like simply putting a new cam with old followers is not the way to go. I'd like to be convinced otherwise, but I'm not too sure.

The cam is mullered with a fair amount of missing lobe on the edges of 8, 6 and 4. The middles look ok but there is a shocking amount missing from the edges. I'll post up pictures when I've got the engine out, should be tomorrow all being well.

---

might be worth pulling the sump of then, and having a look at the big ends, and oil pump also then, giving it the once over so to speak, all that metals gone somewhere:(

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by HAndy

might be worth pulling the sump of then, and having a look at the big ends, and oil pump also then, giving it the once over so to speak, all that metals gone somewhere:(

---

It's getting pulled apart chap.

Engine out!

https://www.rtoc.org/files/Miscellane...2/DSCF4037.JPG

https://www.rtoc.org/files/Miscellane...2/DSCF4038.JPG

https://www.rtoc.org/files/Miscellane...2/DSCF4039.JPG

https://www.rtoc.org/files/Miscellane...2/DSCF4040.JPG


Got to say - That's the easiest way to get an engine out.

Tomorrow - Get her on a stand and start investigating this n that.

did it have oil spraying to the rocker cover? ive never looked... does it flow through the rocker shaft? if so are there holes blocked on those particular rockers?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Tony Walker

did it have oil spraying to the rocker cover? ive never looked... does it flow through the rocker shaft? if so are there holes blocked on those particular rockers?

---

Through the bar - all clear on 1st inspection

Did you lube the cam up properly before fitting? No excessive cranking to start after fitting? My followers have survived a couple of different cams:confused:

Yup - it was all done by the book. I really can't think why the damage has occurred apart from a poor re-grind etc. I do have a set of used followers that I could use, but wherever I look it says 'never fit a new cam with old follower' with 1 or 2 odd exceptions. :confused:

Really getting on my tits now :cry: Think I've 2x hairline cracked liners :cry:

See

http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?s...3975552&type=3

For pictures

This one's the worst. It's not cracked right through, but you can feel it is a definite crack. I have a full set of low mileage liners I can put in which look in good condition. If I'm putting the existing piston / rings in, do I need to de-glaze?

I can't say if it's cracked from the pics, I'd probably fit a set of new rings for the effort you've gone too it makes sense.

What's the crack with using my existing pistons (with new rings) in the different honned liners? Is this ok?

Can't see it being a prob. It's the rings that fit to the liners, just check the ring gaps ok.

:agree:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Tony Walker

Can't see it being a prob. It's the rings that fit to the liners, just check the ring gaps ok.

---

:agree:

Right - Stripped the head down tonight as getting it checked over the next few weeks, can anyone tell me if these seats look relieved or not??

https://www.rtoc.org/files/Miscellane...o/DSCF4055.JPG


And



https://www.rtoc.org/files/Miscellane...o/DSCF4054.JPG


I think they are - the work was done at CTM many moons ago, and you can see a bit of machining at the tops of each seat where the work has been done, doesn't look as though Renault would have done it if you know what I mean.

Anyone?

I'm not so sure, doesn't look like a clean cut into the head more a cast but as you say as it was done many years ago could be aged now.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Markey Mark (BD)

I'm not so sure, doesn't look like a clean cut into the head more a cast but as you say as it was done many years ago could be aged now.

---

I suppose the best thing is to find out what the spring top height should be and go from there.

Cheers

OK - bit of an update:-

1. K-Tec state the valve spring seats do not require relieving with uprated springs.
2. CatCams state the valve spring seats do not require relieving with uprated springs.
3. I've measured a 10mm lift and I still have about 1.5mm - 2mm of free travel left n the spring.

The cam turned up and looks fab, aparently the new CatCams 285 is optimised and now timed in @ 113 deg as per

https://www.rtoc.org/files/Miscellane...t%20Cam285.pdf

Head has gone off for checking as it was weeping a little from the front edge

Crank and flywheel off to be balanced and the main end journals cleaned up.

That's it - 2-3 weeks wait for this, got to say, I've found another great engineer, well respected in the mini 7's and Miglia race scene TMW Engineers if you need HQ stuff.

In the mean time, I'll be fitting my liners after de-glazing.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by TNT ANDY

OK - bit of an update:-

1. K-Tec state the valve spring seats do not require relieving with uprated springs.
2. CatCams state the valve spring seats do not require relieving with uprated springs.
3. I've measured a 10mm lift and I still have about 1.5mm - 2mm of free travel left n the spring.

The cam turned up and looks fab, aparently the new CatCams 285 is optimised and now timed in @ 113 deg as per

https://www.rtoc.org/files/Miscellane...t%20Cam285.pdf

Head has gone off for checking as it was weeping a little from the front edge

Crank and flywheel off to be balanced and the main end journals cleaned up.

That's it - 2-3 weeks wait for this, got to say, I've found another great engineer, well respected in the mini 7's and Miglia race scene TMW Engineers if you need HQ stuff.

In the mean time, I'll be fitting my liners after de-glazing.

---

this is the exact same as the bb285 cam made by catcams 113 degrees i never deglaze just make sure you hold at bout 3k on first start for a few mins

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by R5MJH

this is the exact same as the bb285 cam made by catcams 113 degrees i never deglaze just make sure you hold at bout 3k on first start for a few mins

---

Coolio - The reason I'm deglazing is because I'm putting in new liners and piston rings, it has nothing to do with the cam.

Cam running in should be no less than 2.5K for 20 mins according to Piper, CatCams and Kent.:agree:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by TNT ANDY

Coolio - The reason I'm deglazing is because I'm putting in new liners and piston rings, it has nothing to do with the cam.

Cam running in should be no less than 2.5K for 20 mins according to Piper, CatCams and Kent.:agree:

---

exactly make sure water is ok before 1st start then hold at 3k for 20 mins and ya good to go boss, we had new everything mate pistons liners and rings use a good coat of wd40 on liners this helps first start to boss
ive never deglazed mate no need:wasntme:
i also remove main ht before 1st start and crank for 30secs make sure oil pressure is ok and oil is circulating

New pistons and liners on the way.

Thanks Ross.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by TNT ANDY

New pistons and liners on the way.

Thanks Ross.

---

Heheeh , just to let you know Andy is only upset as I pointed out the liners he planned on using had a ridge at the top of piston stroke you could climb on, pretty sure Stallone was using one in his new cliffhanger 2 film for the huge suspended drop scene :p:p:popcorn::upyours:

I never relieved the spring seats when fitting my piper springs, it should be ok

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by TNT!hammond

Heheeh , just to let you know Andy is only upset as I pointed out the liners he planned on using had a ridge at the top of piston stroke you could climb on, pretty sure Stallone was using one in his new cliffhanger 2 film for the huge suspended drop scene :p:p:popcorn::upyours:

---

:cry:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Brigsy

I never relieved the spring seats when fitting my piper springs, it should be ok

---

Cheers Brigsy - now confirmed, I've been waiting for that.
:agree:

Looking good mate not long before its all back together :)

Made a jig up as per young Scotty (cheers fella - just the ticket) heated the whole piston / rod assembly to 220 deg c and pushed the pin out in my vice. Still very tight, but it went ok. I used the same jig to push the new pins onto the rods. Froze the pins over - night and heated rod no 1 to 250 deg c (removing shells 1st) popped it in the jig and pushed it in. I was just doing No 1 for the moment to gauge how much of a pain / how much damage I might do. It took a lot of pressure to push them in, but they went in as I would have imagined if I had not heated them. But it's in there now, full steam ahead now. I'll be checking the cam timing with just piston 1 in the bore to make it easier to be accurate.

I'll take some photo's and do a write up in the technical section for future reference.

Now fluffy really is getting on my tits.

Got all the pistons on their respective rods and started installing them turning the crank over after I tightned the caps up on each one, one at a time. All good until cap no 3, which when tightened binds the crank up. Grrrr I'm thinking bent rod. Anyone had this? I'll be trying a different rod tomorrow and see how I get on with that one.

It never rains.:cry:

are you sure it's the right cap for the rod and it's the right way round?

is the piston facing the right way?

if you get the small end of the rod cherry red the pins drop in with no effort at all andy, thats how I've done them in the past. Getting pistons off is the hard bit!

Yup - sure, I was very careful to get this right.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Scoff

if you get the small end of the rod cherry red the pins drop in with no effort at all andy, thats how I've done them in the past. Getting pistons off is the hard bit!

---

Must say there was still a great deal of effort to get the pins in. I might just try to get the new piston on another rod using that technique and see how I get on sounds a lot less stressful in literal terms!

well, I say they drop right in. they do for the first 3 seconds, then they bind, and then they're a pig to move. So you need the jig set up ready to drop the pin right in to the correct position straight away. Saves bending the rod or scuffing a piston.

Regards the rod bearings, try bolting it to the journal with the piston hanging out the bottom of the engine, and if it turns on the journal OK then you must have bent the rod.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Scoff

well, I say they drop right in. they do for the first 3 seconds, then they bind, and then they're a pig to move. So you need the jig set up ready to drop the pin right in to the correct position straight away. Saves bending the rod or scuffing a piston.

Regards the rod bearings, try bolting it to the journal with the piston hanging out the bottom of the engine, and if it turns on the journal OK then you must have bent the rod.

---

Top tip there if I ever saw one:agree:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by TNT ANDY

Yup - sure, I was very careful to get this right.

---

I know you would have done, and you would have been :agree:

Have you put no.4 in yet? with no.3 disconnected and pushed up out the way does it turn freely?

Yes the other 3 are in and torqued down, it turns freely
:confused:

I take it you're not using new bearings? and original crank? everything that came off is going back in?

just ruling out other factors, just seems strange it's just the one rod if everything has been done the same

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by TNT Tricky Nicky

I take it you're not using new bearings? and original crank? everything that came off is going back in?

just ruling out other factors, just seems strange it's just the one rod if everything has been done the same

---

I know - this engine does not like me.:cry:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by TNT ANDY

Top tip there if I ever saw one:agree:

---

we just used a blowtorch to head up the end of the rod, and the gudgeons literally pop back in by hand

I dont think 250c is hot enough when there nearly going red they should slide in effortlessly.

id say close to double the temp is needed.

Temperature when metal glows red
How to tell what temperature a glowing object (metals) might be:

Doesn’t really matter what the emitter is…stainless steel, cast iron, tungsten in your light bulb, the temps are about the same for a given color. Generally accepted colors/temps are:

C F Color

400 752 Red heat, visible in the dark
474 885 Red heat, visible in the twilight
525 975 Red heat, visible in the daylight
581 1077 Red heat, visible in the sunlight
700 1292 Dark red
800 1472 Dull cherry-red
900 1652 Cherry-red
1000 1832 Bright cherry-red
1100 2012 Orange-red

just shows how hot your exhaust/turbo gets sometimes :agree:

OK - Got a new rod on, all is good!

we continue...................................

Tomorrow!

:agree:

OK - bottom end is all back together, all torqued down nice and tight, sump and timing chain guard back on. Vavles back in the head using a different spring compressor.

http://i.ebayimg.com/t/BGS-Valve-spr...c-!~~60_12.JPG

Much nicer than the other type, even the TNT modded one:laugh:

Just for reference - sizes.

Inlet valve - 34mm
Ex valve - 29mm
Head height - 73.2mm

Tonight I'll get the end plate back on and mock fit to the block and start looking at getting the exhaust support bracket to fit my set-up.

Getting there.

i used a 16v spring compressor to put mine back in, took over an hour with lots of swearing, the one that u posted a pic of looks like a winner!

TNT modded one looked a lot cooler though, I think the 4ft long lever handle we had welded to it may have caused it to break :crap::wasntme:

I made something similar to change my stem seals without taking the head off ;)

Raceland manifold on.
Then off
then on
then off

Staying off:mad:

Was looking forward to maybe gaining a little top end from that. Oh well, it just won't go on with the EFI inlet manifold, maybe another time.

Beer night tomorrow, then Thursday should see the clutch going in and possibly lowering C1 back into Fluffy. Fingers crossed. BTW anyone got the exhaust support bracket on with a 2.5inch down pipe???

Nightmare, thats bad enough putting on once :disagree:
I did it on my drive at home and swore id never work on my car at home again lol.
Much much easier with the head off :agree::laugh:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Tony Walker

Nightmare, thats bad enough putting on once :disagree:
I did it on my drive at home and swore id never work on my car at home again lol.
Much much easier with the head off :agree::laugh:

---

piece of cake when off - I remember doing the inlet manifold with the engine in the car - epic pain in't arse.

Got any pictures of the efi manifold Andy :agree:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by philr5t

Got any pictures of the efi manifold Andy :agree:

---

Not atm - I can get some on tomorrow:agree:

It's an MT 1st version - same as Dave Reeds old one I think.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by TNT ANDY

Not atm - I can get some on tomorrow:agree:

---

Cool mate would be nice to see what it looks like was it made for you or was it one of Michael t's manifolds

Sorry mate just read your last reply :wasntme: I'm sure dave used to run the raceland manifold with the efi manifold how come you can't fit it mate

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by philr5t

Cool mate would be nice to see what it looks like was it made for you or was it one of Michael t's manifolds

Sorry mate just read your last reply :wasntme: I'm sure dave used to run the raceland manifold with the efi manifold how come you can't fit it mate

---

The runner coming away from exhaust port No 1 wants to mate with inlet runner No 1. bit of a cock really. As it is atm the exhaust runner runner would need to be chopped off and dropped by about 6-8mm. I really can't be arsed with getting that done now, and also I haven't seen any conclusive evidence to prove what the Tubby manifold does apart from cook starter motors and fall to bits. I'll possibly keep hold of this and keep it on one side should I re-design the inlet manifold.

Andy I've both those manifold fitted the inlet needed some heavy trimming to fit but it does fit. ;)

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Logg

Andy I've both those manifold fitted the inlet needed some heavy trimming to fit but it does fit. ;)

---

Yep does fit, as said it needs some heavy grinding to get it to fit, there's plenty of meat on the inlet mani..

Ill see if I've got any pics, if not Jesus may have taken some before he fitted the lump.

Hmmmm - looked pretty impossible to me, but, if you say so, might be worth a play. Did you have to remove one of the fixing bolts?

The 5 sounds lost but is replaced by a screaming almost motorbike sound :D i like it, and the power difference is very noticeable, less torquey but through the gears so much quicker.

http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?s...type=3&theater

Thats what mine sounds like, cam timing was way too retarded in that vid but gives you an idea.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by TNT ANDY

Hmmmm - looked pretty impossible to me, but, if you say so, might be worth a play. Did you have to remove one of the fixing bolts?

---

Nope didn't have to remove any fixings.. All you need to to do is get all the nuts on first before tightening or you'll be swearing after ;)

Also worth mentioning, you need to put both manifolds on together.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Dave Reed

Nope didn't have to remove any fixings.. All you need to Sonia get all the nuts on first before tightening or you'll be swearing after ;)

Also worth mentioning, you need to put both manis on together.

---

Cheers Dave. 2 things

1. Who's Sonia?
2. Should you be openly broadcasting your inner monologue?

:laugh:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by TNT ANDY

Cheers Dave. 2 things

1. Who's Sonia?
2. Should you be openly broadcasting your inner monologue?

:laugh:

---

:ashamed::ashamed::ashamed: Sonia normally only comes out at the weekend :cooter::D

Bloody iPhone! Lol...

Well would you Adam and Eve it


https://www.rtoc.org/files/Miscellane...d/DSCF4154.JPG

Even TNT Ross couldn't get into that gap :cooter:

https://www.rtoc.org/files/Miscellane...d/DSCF4156.JPG


https://www.rtoc.org/files/Miscellane...d/DSCF4153.JPG

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by TNT ANDY

Well would you Adam and Eve it


https://www.rtoc.org/files/Miscellane...d/DSCF4154.JPG

Even TNT Ross couldn't get into that gap :cooter:

https://www.rtoc.org/files/Miscellane...d/DSCF4156.JPG


https://www.rtoc.org/files/Miscellane...d/DSCF4153.JPG

---

Cheers guys for the pointers:agree::agree::agree:

Get the lard ill give it a go :cooter:

:laugh::laugh::laugh:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by TNT!hammond

Get the lard ill give it a go :cooter:

---

:laugh::laugh::laugh:

You'd go in dry you dirty munchkin :laugh:

Fookin hell, Ross ya still alive then fella, how's tricks?

Gone again :laugh:

Bad news tonight - getting the flywheel on, and found it doesn't fit - somebody did say it wouldn't go on. Should have listened to that person and not the other one:crap: You live and learn.

:cry:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by TNT ANDY

Gone again :laugh:

---

I'm not :cooter:

I'm all good Oli, manic with work and the misses shop we are trying to sort too. Red finally got back on the road again then off in about 100 miles a I wasn't happy with her still mainly due to a leak on the manifold . All back together again nearly only took 2 months for a manifold gasket change :ashamed::sad2: just got too muc other stuff running at the mo to enjoy the car.

Hope you are all good though ?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by TNT!hammond

I'm not :cooter:

I'm all good Oli, manic with work and the misses shop we are trying to sort too. Red finally got back on the road again then off in about 100 miles a I wasn't happy with her still mainly due to a leak on the manifold . All back together again nearly only took 2 months for a manifold gasket change :ashamed::sad2: just got too muc other stuff running at the mo to enjoy the car.

Hope you are all good though ?

---

Works on its arse :(

and its too fecking cold out to do anything to the cars, taking the 9 to butterbollocks unit this weeks so I can finish the welding and get it back on the road.

Apart from that I'm good

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by TNT ANDY

Bad news tonight - getting the flywheel on, and found it doesn't fit - somebody did say it wouldn't go on. Should have listened to that person and not the other one:crap: You live and learn.

:cry:

---

where you trying to fit a volvo /renault valver flywheel to a c1j crank by any chance:(

just read the classifieds,who told you a 172 flywheel would fit a c1j crank pattern:homer::homer::wasntme:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by HAndy

just read the classifieds,who told you a 172 flywheel would fit a c1j crank pattern:homer::homer::wasntme:

---

Not to mention the additional cost at the engineers. Doh

Got a chap to machine the 172 6 paddle clutch and cover onto my Megan 1.6 8v flywheel, should be done next Thursday all being well.

Thanks Markey B for the contact - should have done this in the 1st place LOL.

BTW just for the record - the chap who supplied me with the flywheel etc is genuine and it has been a mistake just incase anyone thinks there's any piss taking going on. One of those things.:cooter:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by TNT ANDY

Got a chap to machine the 172 6 paddle clutch and cover onto my Megan 1.6 8v flywheel, should be done next Thursday all being well.

Thanks Markey B for the contact - should have done this in the 1st place LOL.

BTW just for the record - the chap who supplied me with the flywheel etc is genuine and it has been a mistake just incase anyone thinks there's any piss taking going on. One of those things.:cooter:

---

i'm sure i said to get a flywheel drilled months ago :laugh:

:cartman:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by markey b

i'm sure i said to get a flywheel drilled months ago :laugh:

---

LOL - cheers bud, got it done and the fecker aint in the middle of the flywheel. I had my suspicions when I picked it up, so I measured it. .75mm out to one side, now I know that doesn't sound a lot, but I would think at 7500 rpm its going to exaggerate that somewhat. Anyway, lond story short, I've just ordered a Panther 4 paddle clutch, coverplate and bearing and a new flywheel. I'll have this on and back in within a couple of weeks.

oh no! will it cause failure by that ammount? i know mines been ok but then again i dont do enough miles to show up a problem.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by markey b

oh no! will it cause failure by that ammount? i know mines been ok but then again i dont do enough miles to show up a problem.

---

I would have thought so chap - I'm spending a fair bit on this engine, I can't really see the point in sticking that flywheel arrangement in knowing it's not right. It'll be in the back of my mind all the while if I put it in. I'm a bit of a tart like that.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by markey b

oh no! will it cause failure by that ammount? i know mines been ok but then again i dont do enough miles to show up a problem.

---

If it went it would be a catastrophic failure and probably destroy the box and if you were unlucky come straight through the bulkhead and kill the passenger....

Never underestimate the energy stored in the flywheel, at 7000rpm if you are in the way, you're marmalade.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n0TxZFDLa3w

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Scoff

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n0TxZFDLa3w

---

That's awesome :D

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Scoff

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n0TxZFDLa3w

---

and from there I got to this, wtf :D
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ibEdgQJEdTA

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Scoff

and from there I got to this, wtf :D
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ibEdgQJEdTA

---

Scoff you need to get out more!! It ate a sofa bed :D

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Scoff

and from there I got to this, wtf :D
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ibEdgQJEdTA

---

Wow a rock and Tampax shredding machine, I want one.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by DaveL485

If it went it would be a catastrophic failure and probably destroy the box and if you were unlucky come straight through the bulkhead and kill the passenger....

Never underestimate the energy stored in the flywheel, at 7000rpm if you are in the way, you're marmalade.

---

My thoughts exactly, but hold on, Ipswich could be in that passenger seat, it's going in.:cooter:

Convincing enough for me - Cheers Scoff.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by TNT ANDY

My thoughts exactly, but hold on, Ipswich could be in that passenger seat, it's going in.:cooter:

---

Thanks C**t ;)

Flywheel is just something I'd let an expert do and even then, like you already have, double check everything. I've seen the carnage from the classic mini world where the flywheel is just if front of the drivers family jewels!

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Woznaldo

Flywheel is just something I'd let an expert do and even then, like you already have, double check everything. I've seen the carnage from the classic mini world where the flywheel is just if front of the drivers family jewels!

---

AHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH :disagree:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Woznaldo

Flywheel is just something I'd let an expert do and even then, like you already have, double check everything. I've seen the carnage from the classic mini world where the flywheel is just if front of the drivers family jewels!

---

Could save a younger pup a fortune that could:laugh:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Scoff

and from there I got to this, wtf :D
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ibEdgQJEdTA

---

A baby one, how sweet!

Here's Daddy! :eek::eek:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JWxcJDONE_U

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by DaveL485

A baby one, how sweet!

Here's Daddy! :eek::eek:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JWxcJDONE_U

---

Please start another thread titled 'shreader porn' in the general discussion area.

Only kidding - put whatever you want up, and that's a mighty fine shreader, I wonder how many people have lost there limbs / lives in one of these things

Is one o them romils block?? :laugh:

:laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by GT Josh

Is one o them romils block?? :laugh:

---

:laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh:

nah, most of them where probabley marky b's;) good old ginger:laugh::laugh::laugh:, more heads than russian porn star:cooter::p:laugh:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by DaveL485

A baby one, how sweet!

Here's Daddy! :eek::eek:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JWxcJDONE_U

---

Sweet Jesus :eek:

Talking of shredders, - believe Ross had a close shave with an angle grinder in his tracky bottoms ;) :wasntme:

:laugh:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Mr Raider

Talking of shredders, - believe Ross had a close shave with an angle grinder in his tracky bottoms ;) :wasntme:

---

:laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by HAndy

nah, most of them where probabley marky b's;) good old ginger:laugh::laugh::laugh:, more heads than russian porn star:cooter::p:laugh:

---

not heads, just pistons, liners, head gaskets, still on orignal crank and shells though :laugh:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Mr Raider

Talking of shredders, - believe Ross had a close shave with an angle grinder in his tracky bottoms ;) :wasntme:

---

Note to everyone , make sure they are baggy track bottoms so it snags the blade and kills the motor, if I was wearing my Lycra ones I would have had no sack left :sad2::sad: hahahahhah close call hahahahahha

I once put a 12" table saw blade in a 2kw grinder to chop a doorway through a barn door. Somehow I managed to slip and drop it while running, the blade swung by my leg and sliced through my jeans, incredibly just brushing the skin without injury. That was my lucky day :)

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Scoff

I once put a 12" table saw blade in a 2kw grinder to chop a doorway through a barn door. Somehow I managed to slip and drop it while running, the blade swung by my leg and sliced through my jeans, incredibly just brushing the skin without injury. That was my lucky day :)

---

That's just plain silly that is.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Scoff

I once put a 12" table saw blade in a 2kw grinder to chop a doorway through a barn door. Somehow I managed to slip and drop it while running, the blade swung by my leg and sliced through my jeans, incredibly just brushing the skin without injury. That was my lucky day :)

---

Scoff , I only need to replace your name with mine to believe I'd do something just this stupid , are you sure your not interested in the building game ?hahaha

Ross i fook everything up, electrical / car related, I just can't help it. But I do have top say, you chucking an angle grinder into your ball sack was one of the funniest things I'd ever seen. The look of sheer panic then the look of amazement of how you hadn't cut your balls off, then panic again as you tried to turn off the bound up grinder which was trying to chew your balls off.

Classic, ney definitive TNT moment.

Thanks for bringing it up Karl.

A bit more progress.......

I thought it was about time the engine went back in....

https://www.rtoc.org/files/Miscellane...35755041_o.jpg


And there she be.........



https://www.rtoc.org/files/Miscellane...02930343_o.jpg

That's it for the time being, a couple of points.

1. Leaving the gearbox in is in my opinion the best way of doing an engine removal but you must ensure that the crank end pully is removed, the front right hand engine mount is totally disconnected, supplementary front steady is removed, both other mounts are loosened off and that the gearbox is supported on the right hand side (as looking from inside the car).

Keep to this and it's a very easy task to both remove and install.

Next up, get the head on and start grafting Dave Reeds down pipe onto my existing set-up. A little bit for tonight.

good work ,keep it up:)

good darts andy! have u given the block a lick of paint too?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by markey b

good darts andy! have u given the block a lick of paint too?

---

Don't be daft.

why not? i know chrome dont get u home, but it makes it loads cleaner and tidier for next time. i dont even get dirty ripping mine apart these days :laugh:

https://www.rtoc.org/files/Miscellane...Mock%20fit.jpg

Got the head on and Mock fitted to see what needs doing to the down pipe to make it fit. I;m away for a few days, so it'll have to wait untill the weekend now.

Pah

Update

No pictures, but

1 - the head is on an torqued down 80NM
2 - Big Dave's enlarged elbow grafted on and fitted.
3 - Rad in.
4 - Alernator on.
5 - Tappets adjusted.

Not much left to do, May be able to fire up this week all being well.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by TNT ANDY

May be able to fire up this week all being well.

---

:agree:

Excellent news Andy.

Hope it fires up easily enough dude

Ross

Gravel in the gearbox? Or is that only when you come over and help me? :cooter:

Hahahhahahahhahahhahahahhahhahahahhahahha loooooooooooossssssserrrr :cooter:

I'm ignoring that shorty:cooter:

Almost got all the cooling pipework sorted tonight, well I would have got it done, except that I thought the 2 pipes that run across the top of the engine (expansion from the degas pot to the expansion tank and the return from the degas to the expansion tank) looked ****e, so I re-routed them behind the front cross member so there are no pipes going across the top.

Got to love a bit of copper and cable ties.

That's it for this week unfortunately as every night this week is taken for, so possibly be able to get on on it on Sunday for a bit and we should be 99% there.

Just a stab in the dark here, but I have changed my TB to a slightly larger affair, I'm assuming that with a larger TB I will have to increase my overall fuel trim to take into account the extra volume of air going in. Does that sound about right?

I know I'm going to have it re-mapped again, but to get me going and get the engine run in I think this would be ok for off boost driving.

No andy don't adjust any trims. You might find throttle response changes a little and so the accel pump / transients might need a tweek. Keep an eye on afr's at full throttle if you think flow is improved anywhere but the throttle alone shouldn't make much or any difference. :)

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Scoff

No andy don't adjust any trims. You might find throttle response changes a little and so the accel pump / transients might need a tweek. Keep an eye on afr's at full throttle if you think flow is improved anywhere but the throttle alone shouldn't make much or any difference. :)

---

Lol, cheers Chris, this was indiectly aimed at you, thanks for the reply. There won't be any wot util its mapped again as I have a new cam, exhaust manifold tb etc, so things could be way off.

Might just get the Fluffmiester up and running tomorrow (fingers Crossed):cool:

Dnt forget to run that new cam in... Or you'll be changing it again..

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Dave Reed

Dnt forget to run that new cam in... Or you'll be changing it again..

---

2.5K - 3K 20 mins should suffice. :agree:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by TNT ANDY

2.5K - 3K 20 mins should suffice. :agree:

---

indeed boss:D

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by TNT ANDY

2.5K - 3K 20 mins should suffice. :agree:

---

Yup, just dnt let it tick over really.. It hard really as you've got a whole new build, should of really thrown a standard cam in as u dnt really want to rev it like that with the new rings etc..

ours was a total new build cam and pistons liners and rings we held for 20 mins at 3000 ish revs and weve had no probs and our rings were only inserted using wd40 and all sweet with ours

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by R5MJH

ours was a total new build cam and pistons liners and rings we held for 20 mins at 3000 ish revs and weve had no probs and our rings were only inserted using wd40 and all sweet with ours

---

:niceone::niceone::worship::worship:

Well, Fluffy's back up and running.

Fired up surprisingly easy.

:agree:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by TNT ANDY

Well, Fluffy's back up and running.

Fired up surprisingly easy.

---

Good good, how does she feel? Rev ok? No unwanted knocks and rattles?

Cheers guys

Oli Fluff's still in the garage on axle stands atm and I only had enough time to run in the cam. This sounded very good, no funny noises etc, I need Ross to get round here to mod my bumper, then I can start fiddling with the fuel as it started mega rich yesterday, I'll need a clear head for that though.

I should be able to get her out on the road next weekend to see whats what.

It's a good feeling when it first fires up:agree: Good work

Quote:

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Originally Posted by GTphil

It's a good feeling when it first fires up:agree: Good work

---

Unfortunately, all's not as good as 1st thought!

I had an issue when plugging my injectors back in on the back of the ecu and shorted out some pins which I thought I'd got away with. I don't think so. Early days yet, but it looks like I may have damaged the ECU and or a couple of injectors.

Standby!
:cry:

Hmmm, Injectors? ECU? Wiring/pins?:scratch:??? Oh yeah, EFi all the way... :sad2: (Sorry but LOL) :scared:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Romil Davda

Hmmm, Injectors? ECU? Wiring/pins?:scratch:??? Oh yeah, EFi all the way... :sad2: (Sorry but LOL) :scared:

---

Lol - I've just asked Ross if he has a spare carb.

And for the record I've never expressed an opinion that EFI is superior to carb. The ignition side is without question, but fueling wise, you only have to look at a few motors on here to see some well set up carbs. I chose efi as it seemed like a logical step forward and it was and still is a challenge.

So stick your sarcasm up your alyhole :cooter:

Injection ftw! :D:p

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by TNT ANDY

Lol - I've just asked Ross if he has a spare carb.

And for the record I've never expressed an opinion that EFI is superior to carb. The ignition side is without question, but fueling wise, you only have to look at a few motors on here to see some well set up carbs. I chose efi as it seemed like a logical step forward and it was and still is a challenge.

So stick your sarcasm up your alyhole :cooter:

---

Itll be worth it in a few years when petrols £2/3/4/5 a litre.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Romil Davda

Hmmm, Injectors? ECU? Wiring/pins?:scratch:??? Oh yeah, EFi all the way... :sad2: (Sorry but LOL) :scared:

---

Hmmn, carb freeze, poor ecconomy, float bowl emptying, hot starting problems, sticking pump jets ................................. ;)

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Scoff

Hmmn, carb freeze, poor ecconomy, float bowl emptying, hot starting problems, sticking pump jets ................................. ;)

---

....... Worn throttle shafts, missing mixture screws, split diaphragms, corroded water ways.

Your not selling it to me.

Need more reasons.

:scared::p

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by rs250nut

....... Worn throttle shafts, missing mixture screws, split diaphragms, corroded water ways.

---

Blocking idle jets, inferior throttle response, improper fueling at different boost levels, restricted performance, manual choke. I think thats about it ? I can't think of any more :ashamed:

Hopefully andy hasn't damaged anything, but if he has I'm sure it's repairable.

Ok Scoff , lots of reasons why efi is better however none of them relate to the " talent" that is Andy " you bring it I'll wreck it" Stott who if not every single person on here knows already is an electrician who seemingly always has electrical faults :ashamed: :D hehehe you knows I loves ya stottttoooooooooo :p

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by TNT!hammond

Ok Scoff , lots of reasons why efi is better however none of them relate to the " talent" that is Andy " you bring it I'll wreck it" Stott who if not every single person on here knows already is an electrician who seemingly always has electrical faults :ashamed: :D hehehe you knows I loves ya stottttoooooooooo :p

---

:cooter::cry:

Getting nowhere fast here - it's running on 2 cylinders and getting on my tits.

Arghhh.

Sure you havn't fouled a couple plugs with all this richness ?

I'll answer the string of PM's in a bit when I finish work mate. :)

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Scoff

Sure you havn't fouled a couple plugs with all this richness ?

I'll answer the string of PM's in a bit when I finish work mate. :)

---

LOL - no, I've had the plugs out and cleaned them up a fair few times now, it's always 2 & 3 which is giving me the gyp. Hmmmm:scratch:

BTW - I watched this

http://www.nzonscreen.com/title/brit...visionary-1993

I'm inspired again.

I just lack the knowledge LOL.

Oh and ability.:cartman:

Is it still running rich? Have you swapped the plugs about?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Dave Reed

Is it still running rich? Have you swapped the plugs about?

---

Hi Dave - yes I gave them a swap around to see if that made a difference - no such luck. However, last night I realised that I had been trying to start Fluffy using the 36-1 patters as per Scoffs trigger wheel, but I have changed the trigger wheel to a flywheel based item with 60-1 without changing the settings in the ECU:cartman: I changed that over and tried last night but that didn't fire up. I'm waiting on Miller to confirm the number of teeth on my flywheel (Scenic 1.6 8v 1998 k7m 102 if there are any geeks on here) and I think as Chris mentioned earlier, I need to get the plugs out and clean them before I try again.

I'm not very good at all this and feel totally lost atm, it makes sense that is was rich as the ecu would count the missing tooth then start the ignition process and I don't know what it does when it got to 36 and then no missing tooth, I suspect it went back round to the beggining of the table again, or even just stopped firing and waited for the missing tooth to come around again, I suspect the later. which again makes sense that the if the firing order is 1-4-3-2 that within the first 180 degrees only 1 and 4 would fire, it runs pretty poorly at about 2k but struggles below that and it make no difference if I remove plugs 2 or 3 whilst it is running.

Can't get back on this till Thursday so I'll have to wait for info from both Miller and Scoff to see if I have my facts right.

Firing order is 1,3,4,2 andy.

I think that wheel will be 60-2 if you've halved the double renix style tooth.

Eurika - Big thanks to Scoff again:agree::agree::agree::agree:

we got there in the end.

Time to get the wheels on and get some easy miles on her.

Then mapping.

Can anyone recommend which engine oil to go in now?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by TNT ANDY

Eurika - Big thanks to Scoff again:agree::agree::agree::agree:

we got there in the end.

Time to get the wheels on and get some easy miles on her.

Then mapping.

---

well done bet thats a relief

Quote:

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Originally Posted by chris

well done bet thats a relief

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You aint kidding, when somethings wrong with the Fluff - it's always user error.

Good feeling when you get it right, and it teaches you a bit more also - with a little help from your friends, and that's why I went down the Scoff route - can't praise him enough.

how hard is it to go to efi mate?

Not too, bad so long as you're not a bafoon like me. There's enough people on here now to help you through.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by TNT ANDY

Not too, bad so long as you're not a bafoon like me. There's enough people on here now to help you through.

---

lol trouble is i am a heavy handed bafoon i was offerd an efi manifold with injectors and throttle postion sensor dont know what to do

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by TNT ANDY

Can anyone recommend which engine oil to go in now?

---

Run it in with cheap mineral 10/40 then when ran in swap for 10/60 fully synth.

Cheers Brigsy

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by TNT ANDY

Can anyone recommend which engine oil to go in now?

---

So you got the engine running then decided to put oil in it??? :laugh:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Tony Walker

So you got the engine running then decided to put oil in it??? :laugh:

---

You are finally understanding Andy hahaha

Oi - this is TNT Andy - Not Ipswich you fools - pack it in LOL.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by TNT ANDY

Oi - this is TNT Andy - Not Ipswich you fools - pack it in LOL.

---

Oi I've never started an engine with no oil in it, split an oil line at 120mph and dropped the lot but never started without it

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by TNT ANDY

Oi - this is TNT Andy - Not Ipswich you fools - pack it in LOL.

---

Oi I've never started an engine with no oil in it, split an oil line at 120mph and dropped the lot but never started without it

Good to hear she's up and running again Andy

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Os8472

Oi I've never started an engine with no oil in it, split an oil line at 120mph and dropped the lot but never started without it

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FFS - I've not started the car with no oil in it:scared: I was wondering what spec to go for once run in.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by TNT ANDY

FFS - I've not started the car with no oil in it:scared: I was wondering what spec to go for once run in.

---

Ooow touchy lol

To answer your question I use to run 10/60 mobil 1.


But you really should of put some oil in before you started it.. :cooter:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Dave Reed

Ooow touchy lol

---

Lol

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Dave Reed

But you really should of put some oil in before you started it.. :cooter:

---

Sorry Andy but I gotta agree, starting with no oil was a bad idea ;)

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Dave Reed

To answer your question I use to run 10/60 mobil 1.


But you really should of put some oil in before you started it.. :cooter:

---

:cooter:

Got some 10-40 mineral in atm and a lovely 5L of mobil 1 on standby.

Report - Just been out and done 30 miles, no issues apart from fueling - I'll fiddle with this and get back out there. Feels great to be back behind inside Fluffy.

Glad fluffy is feeling better.:agree:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by casper

Glad fluffy is feeling better.:agree:

---

Haha - Cheers Casper me owd fruit:agree:

OK - quick update, just got back from a 120 mile round trip (I'll text and check before setting off next time, grrrrr) , felt a bit sluggish and struggled up hills. I suspect this is because I have had a few changes since it was mapped last, so I advanced the ignition a wee bit and found it livened up great. kept off boost though to be safe.

Bad points - on the original ignition timing, under load the ecu would cut out, possibly due to electrical 'noise / interference' I'll need to clarify what is what before the long trip to Scoffs.

Also my water pump has sprung a f*****g leak, so I'll change that also before the trip back up north.

Almost there now.

Update

A mixed day really, on positive we got a map on her and she ran (yes I said that right) absolutely fantastic on my brief outing.

However a few things plaguing -

1 - Raceland Manifold is going in the bin - it was glowing up like it was going to melt @ 15psi, it's cracked despite having 2 good braces on it and it kept setting fire to my wrap (fangita:cooter:)

2 - we didn't spot we had thrown the belt after a run and therefore got the water temps upto 118 deg C which I suspect has blown the head gasket as I drove the entire 250 miles on 2, possibly 3 pistons back to Sunny fooking Norfolk. To top it off my headlights packed up as leaving me no option but to blind every fooker coming the other way or have just my side lights on. The good people of England flashed me either way despite me having my Hazards on.

Back to the drawing board again FFS.

That said, I do have a good map on it now - just need to repair the bits from above .


For the record .......


IF YOU HAVE A RACELAND MANIFOLD THROW IT IN THE BIN OR SHOVE IT UP YOUR ARSE, THEY ARE NOT WORTH THE BOTHER

Maybe you shouldn't wrap them?

30 or so other buyers with no(?) complaints.

I heard of standard manifolds that were wrapped and bent and leaked.

Unless it's not weldable, then it'll sell quite easily?

Wow I feel sorry for you chap. Hope it all goes smoothly for you. Although the way you explained the story did make me chuckle... :laugh:

my raceland manifold was cracked after no more than 150-200 miles, i didnt wrap mine but also it wasnt braced, i had it repaired by my mate and sold it on for what i paid for it.
i personally didnt think there was any gains the only thing it seemed to do was make the exhaust note crap and lose the burble

sorry to hear the news Andy:(

i guess thats why you where so quiet yesterday:cry:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by TNT ANDY

To top it off my headlights packed up as leaving me no option but to blind every fooker coming the other way or have just my side lights on. The good people of England flashed me either way despite me having my Hazards on.

---

I had that once, ended up taking off my white t-shirt, tearing it in half and sticking it over the lights to dim them down a bit.... :eek:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Ashy

I had that once, ended up taking off my white t-shirt, tearing it in half and sticking it over the lights to dim them down a bit.... :eek:

---

LOL - it was a bit chilly for that last night, although that would have been funny to do :D I'd have had people flashing me for an entirely different reason :laugh:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by HAndy

sorry to hear the news Andy:(

i guess thats why you where so quiet yesterday:cry:

---

Yeh - it's never easy to text everyone that's interested Andy, and when you're 250 miles from home, you don't want to spend half hour texting ****e news LOL. but like I say, it was not all bad. Won't take long to sort it out and get back on the road. I'll only be running 18 psi for the time being until I can get back to Scoff.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by GT Josh

Wow I feel sorry for you chap. Hope it all goes smoothly for you. Although the way you explained the story did make me chuckle... :laugh:

---

:agree:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by BluntyR5GTT

my raceland manifold was cracked after no more than 150-200 miles, i didnt wrap mine but also it wasnt braced, i had it repaired by my mate and sold it on for what i paid for it.
i personally didnt think there was any gains the only thing it seemed to do was make the exhaust note crap and lose the burble

---

Yeh, I was trying to take out any bottle neck that may exist in my set - up, but tbh, for 200 - 230 bhp, I think it's possibly my turbo now and I won't be changing that any time soon, so the manifold can go. It was quite shocking how easily it glowed up.

It will look good on my garage wall though to go along with the other bit's n bobs I'm breaking and collecting.

Right - onwards and upwards as they say

1st thing to do - compression check - I assume that there will be a breach between 2 cylinders and I'll need to put a new gasket in there. with the car overheating would it be best to have the head checked for straightness? Can I do this myself? or is it best left to an engineer?

Here we go again :crap:

Poor fluffy.Get well soon.:agree:

I always said those raceland manifolds are crap:D

Comp test it then go from there mate:agree: check head yourself with straight edge

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by GT Josh

Wow I feel sorry for you chap. Hope it all goes smoothly for you. Although the way you explained the story did make me chuckle... :laugh:

---

A lot of Andys stories you really shouldn't laugh at as they're all based on a lot of bad luck but it's just the way he tells them, you can't help but have a chuckle.

Gutted things didn't go as they should but on the plus side at least you didn't pay k-tec tax on the manifold for it to fail.

You'll get there in the end Andy :cool:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Brigsy

I always said those raceland manifolds are crap:D

Comp test it then go from there mate:agree: check head yourself with straight edge

---

Cheers Tricky

Yeh, just googled it.

OK,

Done a few things tonight,

Checked compression to all 4. All good at 160 psi each. No signs of breaching on the gasket in any direction, it looked perfect tbh. There was a lot of soot from the exhaust manifold but is very difficult to see exactly where it was blowing from. There looks like a hairline crack on number 1 branch an I expect that opens up quite nicely when hot.

Number 1 was the one that was not firing on the way home as the plug is blackened.

Checked the head for flatness with a 0.004in feeler and a torch and it looks bang on. I'll do it with a 0.002 tomorrow just to be sure. It all looks rosey in there.

I will take this opportunity to put some new studs and nut's / washers on the exhaust/inletmanifold and also the turbo. Is there anything special needed for these nuts and studs?

Nothing special on the studs just buy manifold studs m6? Also get yourself some nice stainless washers and some binx nuts :)

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Kris M

Nothing special on the studs just buy manifold studs m6? Also get yourself some nice stainless washers and some binx nuts :)

---

Cheers Chris - I'll get on it tonight.

M8 btw;)

OK - A bit more

Binks nuts ordered and also turbo gaskets both sides as it was blowing it's tits off. Also worth mentioning, my HT leads look as though they have seen better days and may have been the reason or the '3 pistons only' running issue I had. Fingers crossed, I should be fully up and running by Friday night / Saturday.

Need a fingers crossed smiley here.

Good to see your getting stuck in fella and not loosing hope

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by TNT ANDY

Need a fingers crossed smiley here.

---

:sos:

:goodJob: :coffee:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by TNT ANDY

OK - A bit more

Binks nuts ordered and also turbo gaskets both sides as it was blowing it's tits off. Also worth mentioning, my HT leads look as though they have seen better days and may have been the reason or the '3 pistons only' running issue I had. Fingers crossed, I should be fully up and running by Friday night / Saturday.

Need a fingers crossed smiley here.

---

Funny you should say that Andy while pottering about on my five yesterday I found my random misfire was also down to my HT leads. Where I'd extented the top radiator hose the metal tube had been rubbing away at the lead. was quite a shocking experience. :wasntme:

Happy days you got to the bottom of your misfiring issue. :agree:

Bloody hell mate you don't seem to have much luck with this!

I had a raceland and it only ever cracked where I drilled in for the extremal gate,
But once I migged the **** it never cracked again ;) and people always say don't wrap tube fanimoulds...

Re-assembling now and was unsure about which way around to put the exhaust gasket on and it seems like I have been installing them the wrong way round for many years :laugh:

Which way round do you all install them???

Metal side to head, as per the factory ;)

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Mart

Metal side to head, as per the factory ;)

---

Are you sure - there's a fair bit out there that says otherwise.

Believe who you want mate :) but that's how they came fitted from the factory.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Mart

Believe who you want mate :) but that's how they came fitted from the factory.

---

:cool::agree:

I did mine metal to head and it doesn't blow andyyyyyyyyy

:laugh: The inconsistency is constant.

The theory for the way round you have done it is this.

With the metal facing the manifold, it is the manifold which will expand and contract more than the head due to it being much hotter and because of it's construction. The metal aids movement on the manifold side.

Googling this reveals that there are 3 sets of believers

1 - metal to head
2 - metal to manifold
3 - it doesn't matter

oh and 4 - don't use a gasket (normally yank tank oe enthusiasts)

It would seem that technically it should be 1, but number 2 makes more sense but actually 3 is the reality. Number 4 is a given that all yanks are just plain silly.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by TNT ANDY

:laugh: Number 4 is a given that all yanks are just plain silly.

---

Or... incredibly good engineers????? lol:wasntme:

Actually - I've got to give you that:agree:

:sad:

Thermal barrier shpiel aside, the head face is smooth, the exhaust manifold casting is rough - Which side of the gasket will 'seal' better against the manifold?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Mart

:sad:

Thermal barrier shpiel aside, the head face is smooth, the exhaust manifold casting is rough - Which side of the gasket will 'seal' better against the manifold?

---

:agree: makes sense

I always do. 17 years of being ignored though...

:D ;)

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Mart

I always do. 17 years of being ignored though...

:D ;)

---

:laugh:

I look at it from the thermal expansion point of view. The head will expand and contract reasonably uniformly, so is better having the metal 'flat' side against it. The Inlet and Exhaust Manifolds obviously expand at vastly different rates, so the 'soft' fibre side allows for the differing rates of expansion.

You can have some metal to metal seals that don't need a gasket, but generally they are finished to an extremely tight tolerance to achieve this, or their intended use doesn't warrant an absolute seal. Even then, if corrosion creeps in, there may be a need to use a gasket at some point if the mating faces can't be refinished.

Metal to the head, I would have thought someone would have mentioned it by now :D

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Scoff

Metal to the head, I would have thought someone would have mentioned it by now :D

---

Mart did:agree: And it's really strange, there are soo many people saying the other way round, including a well respected ex Renault Tech from on here. I'm just confused........... more confused than usual now :confused:

I've fitted them metal to head as it's the logical option, I think mart knows which way they go but I've not seen him post anything for 17 years now :laugh:

If you've got a spare lob two on metal side out problem solved :p

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by TNT Tricky Nicky

I've fitted them metal to head as it's the logical option, I think mart knows which way they go but I've not seen him post anything for 17 years now :laugh:

If you've got a spare lob two on metal side out problem solved :p

---

LOL - I've fitted them metal to head for many years now as per advice many years ago without problems, and I know some will be thinking why ask then. I don't know, I've just goto know and when i started looking, there was so much info saying the other way round it was hard to ignore. TBH, I don't think anybody apart from the guys who design the manifolds know for sure. So I'm gonna toss a coin to decide :laugh:

Aii, don't let theory or facts get in the way of flipping that coin, you geeza.

;)

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by TNT Tricky Nicky

I think mart knows which way they go but I've not seen him post anything for 17 years now :laugh:

---

:laugh: :cry:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by TNT ANDY

Mart did:agree: And it's really strange, there are soo many people saying the other way round, including a well respected ex Renault Tech from on here. I'm just confused........... more confused than usual now :confused:

---

I said that in ref to mart's invisibleness :)

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Scoff

I said that in ref to mart's invisibleness :)

---

Who is Mart ?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Scoff

I said that in ref to mart's invisibleness :)

---

:laugh:

Didn't get that :laugh::laugh::laugh:

All back together again now, going out this morning at some point but seems to to be running fine now. Hopefully be able to get a fair amount of time out of her before going tits up again.

Went cracking - just some adjustments to the downpipe due to interference on the subframe and all should be good.

Only ran 12psi, to get going, but went very nicely - glad to be back.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by TNT ANDY

Went cracking - just some adjustments to the downpipe due to interference on the subframe and all should be good.

Only ran 12psi, to get going, but went very nicely - glad to be back.

---

Glad its all back together and going well buddy, by the way didnt know you were also in the 12 psi club :cooter:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Mr Raider

Glad its all back together and going well buddy, by the way didnt know you were also in the 12 psi club :cooter:

---

Cheers fella - just need to have another look at the down pipe, it's knocking on the subframe something cronic:rolleyes: I'll have it adjusted and back on tonight all being well.

12psi Sucks:laugh:

Fluffy lives :D about time ;)

Check the flange on the down pipe isn't catching on the inner cv of the drive shaft, mine did that, made one hell of a racket

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by TNT ANDY

Cheers fella - just need to have another look at the down pipe, it's knocking on the subframe something cronic:rolleyes: I'll have it adjusted and back on tonight all being well.

12psi Sucks:laugh:

---

Ahh i see, ironic thats also a clio 172 common trait! Yeah, 12 psi does suck so thats why im running 15 :wasntme: Still not enough!

Good to hear fluffys nearly there :)

Is 12psi for running in? Hope ur gonna put some bad boy boost thru it :-)

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by markey b

Is 12psi for running in? Hope ur gonna put some bad boy boost thru it :-)

---

Markey B run's at least 3 times that boost and abit more for luck! lol :laugh:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by markey b

Is 12psi for running in? Hope ur gonna put some bad boy boost thru it :-)

---

LOL - yeh we've been upto 21 psi in total, I'll keep it @ 18 for the time being.

Not updated for a while, so here we go - I've been happily driving around for about 600 miles now with only 1 minor problem after about an hour the car just cuts out and comes back on immediately. The revs hit the deck and as soon as the needle hits the pin it's back on. It's been doing this for a while but I thought I might have sorted this out with the recent rebuild / relocation of the CAS etc. I've done extensive testing on the car and can't find any sensor / wiring faults ATM, Suppression has been added to the coil feed and I have a few more things to try tonight.

Dwell angle to be reduced to further rule out electrical interference and then thanks to JP trying his ECU to see if it is my ecu for some reason. Hope to get closer to the truth tonight.

Ref the row above, it's metal to the manifold.

The R21 Turbo prevents us having the same quandry with a small offset on the exhaust studs so the gasket only goes on one way around :)

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by DaveL485

Ref the row above, it's metal to the manifold.

The R21 Turbo prevents us having the same quandry with a small offset on the exhaust studs so the gasket only goes on one way around :)

---

Cheers Dave, I did check with Renault technical before installing and got the same answer from them.
So there it is.

May say, I've done a few miles on it like this, no issues with that the rubbish turbo gaskets.

Mot got - with a 'replace that split CV boot' and an advisory of the small oil leak I seem to have, so no biggies there.

However my ECU is toast - off to Scoff for a shake down.

Fluffy is still in the garage.

got meself one of those stretch CV boots to go on the near side outer CV, nice bit of kit and seem to be proper HD. I'll be getting that on some time next week.

Adaptronic and Scoff are being uber amazing in trying to help solve my ECU cutting out problem and they think they might have it. I cannot stress enough at this point why it was that I chose adaptronic and Scoff. It is the back-up you get once things get a bit fuzzy. I know that I wouldn't get the kind of help I'm getting from most ECU manufacturers, and by that I mean Emails, posts and texts at all times guiding you through the process until your there. Or the we'll send you this and that to help you diagnose it from the other side of the world.

We all know what Scoff is about and that's why we all trust / use him (we sometimes even pay him, but not often) well you get the same sort of stuff from the Aussies at adaptronic, they deal with a lot of high end machinery and teams in race series' etc, but they still look after yours truly with my insignificant problems.

So fingers crossed I'll be back on the road within the next few weeks for the season.

I'm not getting the power I expected, but I think I'm coming round to the idea of a bigger blower, I just don't think mine has got what it takes.

"I'm not getting the power I expected, but I think I'm coming round to the idea of a bigger blower, I just don't think mine has got what it takes."

finally the penny drops:wasntme:, you have been told soooo many times :laugh:

you will also get much better air temps, all though you will have to learn to live with a bit more lag;):cool:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by HAndy

"I'm not getting the power I expected, but I think I'm coming round to the idea of a bigger blower, I just don't think mine has got what it takes."

finally the penny drops:wasntme:, you have been told soooo many times :laugh:

you will also get much better air temps, all though you will have to learn to live with a bit more lag;):cool:

---

I thought that lag may, be an issue, but after Ross put the bigger .63/.64 housing on the back of his, he reported a distinct lack of lag when used on mappable ignition, which he's never done before. We need a session to decide which route is best to go down. I could possibly spend as much developing mine as I could buying a new unit.

Suggestions anyone?

Borg Warner EFR 6258 well that would be my next choice of turbo. Far more advanced than any garrett unit on sale at the moment. Only trouble is they can be hard to source from what I've read and price tag of 1k+ :cry: maybe next year for me.

http://www.turbodynamics.co.uk/shop/...hp-p-4850.html

I wouldn't have thought even as big as a .86 would spool late. I get full boost by 4k with a .86 rear(can't really go into detail about wheel sizes and trim etc... As I don't know) on a b18ft so with the extra capacity and better flowing head you should get full boost a fair bit earlier.

be one of these
http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchant...egory_Code=GTX

this one for faster response :D



http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchant...egory_Code=GRT+ billet compressor wheel

or this one for out right power, without toooo much lag:p

you've got the cams / head / exhaust system for it;)

perfect :cool:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Logg

Borg Warner EFR 6258 well that would be my next choice of turbo. Far more advanced than any garrett unit on sale at the moment. Only trouble is they can be hard to source from what I've read and price tag of 1k+ :cry: maybe next year for me.

http://www.turbodynamics.co.uk/shop/...hp-p-4850.html

---

although the borgwarners do look really good, and have many more gret features as logg has mentioned:cooter:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Logg

Borg Warner EFR 6258 well that would be my next choice of turbo. Far more advanced than any garrett unit on sale at the moment. Only trouble is they can be hard to source from what I've read and price tag of 1k+ :cry: maybe next year for me.

http://www.turbodynamics.co.uk/shop/...hp-p-4850.html

---

Looks like the kiddy to me:agree: , but 1K - my car's not worth 1K :laugh:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by HAndy

be one of these
http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchant...egory_Code=GTX

this one for faster response :D



http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchant...egory_Code=GRT+ billet compressor wheel

or this one for out right power, without toooo much lag:p

you've got the cams / head / exhaust system for it;)

perfect :cool:

---

Are you mad, I have a 1.4C1J .86 AR, I think you've lost it. That said, I think you know more about this than I do.

It really depends on what power you want and the engine can handle and what you want the car to do :) there is no point in having a turbo that is massive and laggy but gives you massive power if you want a fast street car or the other way round you want a drag car and run a tiny turbo and it runs out of steam by 5000rpm. Txt me what kind of drive you are after and power and I will run through some bits and I can look at some compressor maps and come up with a few turbos at different budgets for you ;)

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by JP Racing

It really depends on what power you want and the engine can handle and what you want the car to do :) there is no point in having a turbo that is massive and laggy but gives you massive power if you want a fast street car or the other way round you want a drag car and run a tiny turbo and it runs out of steam by 5000rpm. Txt me what kind of drive you are after and power and I will run through some bits and I can look at some compressor maps and come up with a few turbos at different budgets for you ;)

---

Can we do it on here JP, and give some idea of how best to look at this so it's usefull to others and also a permanent reference for myself? Possibly do a write up on turbo sizing for Sparkies LOL under the Tech section. I'll kick it off if you like?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by TNT ANDY

Are you mad, I have a 1.4C1J .86 AR, I think you've lost it. That said, I think you know more about this than I do.

---

look again andy.......the first turbo is only running a 53.86 turbine wheel with a 76 trim , thats about the same size your running now :sad2: but this has a bigger trim ,so should flow a lot better,aided by a 11 billet blade compressor wheel for maxium airflow, your piss poor turbine is about the same size, but with a much smaller trim , ie your exhaust gases are backing up /reversion/choking your engine, as it cant get rid of the gases quick enough top end, hence your not getting the magic 230 bhp you keep asking /trying to get:sad2::sad2:

you have to purchase the ar turbine housing yourself(exhaust side) prob a .63 in your case.

the second turbo is running a 56mm turbine wheel , hardly world shattering sizes here....:( again you can choose your own ar turbine housing, this maybe a bit bigger laggier than your use to, but you did say rosses was about this size, so please dont **** yourself, if you want bigger whp then you need to pump more air, the turbo is the pump;) the bigger the turbo the more you flow ,the more you get at expense of lag, but as i said both of the above are well within your limits, the turbo logg mentioned had a 58mm turbine, which is bigger than both of the above i mentioned:cartman: you think my turbo's big ... it will prob push around 450 maybe absolute max 500bhp on my engine, without pushing stupid boost and stupidly high air intake temps, to put things into prospective for you:coffee:

also a certain very high powered c1j , was running the same turbo as mine, probabley with a smaller ar. turbine housing, and lot of other mods and managed 405bhp before hitting the wall so to speak, so in relation, the turbo's ive mentioned are well within your scope, stop ****ing around with everything else on your engine, and change the one thing that has been repeated to you, over and over ,for the past 12 months;):cool::D

No need for the .63/64 rear housing.. Mine only ran a .49 rear and that made good power. ;)

dave, what turbo did you run , and what power did you get?:)

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by HAndy

look again andy.......the first turbo is only running a 53.86 turbine wheel with a 76 trim , thats about the same size your running now :sad2: but this has a bigger trim ,so should flow a lot better,aided by a 11 billet blade compressor wheel for maxium airflow, your piss poor turbine is about the same size, but with a much smaller trim , ie your exhaust gases are backing up /reversion/choking your engine, as it cant get rid of the gases quick enough top end, hence your not getting the magic 230 bhp you keep asking /trying to get:sad2::sad2:

you have to purchase the ar turbine housing yourself(exhaust side) prob a .63 in your case.

the second turbo is running a 56mm turbine wheel , hardly world shattering sizes here....:( again you can choose your own ar turbine housing, this maybe a bit bigger laggier than your use to, but you did say rosses was about this size, so please dont **** yourself, if you want bigger whp then you need to pump more air, the turbo is the pump;) the bigger the turbo the more you flow ,the more you get at expense of lag, but as i said both of the above are well within your limits, the turbo logg mentioned had a 58mm turbine, which is bigger than both of the above i mentioned:cartman: you think my turbo's big ... it will prob push around 450 maybe absolute max 500bhp on my engine, without pushing stupid boost and stupidly high air intake temps, to put things into prospective for you:coffee:

also a certain very high powered c1j , was running the same turbo as mine, probabley with a smaller ar. turbine housing, and lot of other mods and managed 405bhp before hitting the wall so to speak, so in relation, the turbo's ive mentioned are well within your scope, stop ****ing around with everything else on your engine, and change the one thing that has been repeated to you, over and over ,for the past 12 months;):cool::D

---

Cheers for that Andy - I thought that the trim was the A/R when I read it LOL. what you're saying makes sense, but if I'm gonna spunk £££ I wasnt to do this by calculation rather than, this should do this and this should do that. I need to get in Ross's also to get some idea of the Laggy nature.

I am pretty sure that what you're saying is right now, and it's just a case of getting the right info together now and I should be upto the 230 mark which really is as far as I would like to go on stock internals. I might be pushing it at that.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Dave Reed

No need for the .63/64 rear housing.. Mine only ran a .49 rear and that made good power. ;)

---

What power where you getting without Nos D? And what trim etc you got on there?

Oh bollox - just **** me self.:cry:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by TNT ANDY

Cheers for that Andy - I thought that the trim was the A/R when I read it LOL. what you're saying makes sense, but if I'm gonna spunk £££ I wasnt to do this by calculation rather than, this should do this and this should do that. I need to get in Ross's also to get some idea of the Laggy nature.

I am pretty sure that what you're saying is right now, and it's just a case of getting the right info together now and I should be upto the 230 mark which really is as far as I would like to go on stock internals. I might be pushing it at that.

---

punching figures ito a calculator and plotting on a compressor map etc will only give you rough figures and will not give you the exact anwsers your looking for only a "rough ball park figure" if your happy with the results ross has had with his , then get the turbine wheel dimesions/compressor wheel dimensions/ air ratio of his housings, and go from there :)

any of those two turbos will give you great results, more so than what ross will get out of the unit he is running at present, no slating intended, just facts, the gtx roller unit is going to outflow, out preform an, old skool journal unit, in everyway;)

as dave mentioned , maybe drop the turbine down to a .49 , to help keep lag to a minimum.

as regards to engine, you've got 285 cam and springs/12.9 headbolts, a decent front mount, and free flowing exhaust.... your fine , you need nothing more apart from a decent blower and some boost, and you will get the numbers and more :cool:

forgot to add full stand alone ecu, and fuel injection, fully ported head............yours should be better than most other c1j engines with that little lot in place :laugh::laugh::cool:
and unless your reving to 7500rpm plus , your valve train will be fine also;)

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by HAndy

dave, what turbo did you run , and what power did you get?:)

---

Aka blyton rollers last year and it made 279 at 1.5/6 bar of boost..(perhaps they were out???) should find out soon when Jesus gets it up and running on scoffs rollers..

Unfortunately I don't know the wheel sizes, but the front housing was a/r 80 and rear .49..
Was a t28 also with a bb core..

thanks dave:)

i wonder if it was the gt28rs;)

I believe it was the same turbo that Stuart Clarke used to run.. Well that's what my friend at turbo dynamics said :D

Hopefully this link works

http://m.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid...hread.php&_rdr

sorry dont do face book, so cant relly make out the detail, but great results :)

im sure your new f7 engine will out preform those results;)

andy will be a drooling mess in the corner, once he gets his pies on those graphs:laugh:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by HAndy

sorry dont do face book, so cant relly make out the detail, but great results :)

im sure your new f7 engine will out preform those results;)

andy will be a drooling mess in the corner, once he gets his pies on those graphs:laugh:

---

Haha bless him :D

I'm a drooling mess:cartman:

Wowzzers - not much else I can say really is there.

in fairness andy , i ****ed up the first time and fitted way to smaller unit for my goals aspirations to my swbc, and paid the price litrally:cry:

oli was going to do the same, but after pestering him, and showing him my orginal poor results, it clicked , and he has the makings of powerful f7 also:cool:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by TNT ANDY

I'm a drooling mess:cartman:

Wowzzers - not much else I can say really is there.

---

Nope... Just stop being a tight arse northerner n get ya wallet out! :laugh:

dave , you now know what TNT ANDY stands for....
tight northern tuning......:laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh:

Well I was working out what size you need next and I personally think this on your car would make good numbers :laugh:

http://www.precisionturbo.net/Street...PT118-CEA®/329

Be good for around 2000bhp for track days and then you could turn the boost up to make almost 3000bhp for showing off :laugh:

Ok on a more serious note what are your power goals and do you want to future proof it in case you want more :) also do you want to run lower boost levels ie use a bigger turbo and have some lag or do you want to run a higher boost level and still have it very responsive with as small a unit you can get away with :) also what spec turbo do you currently have and I would like compressor size and turbine size I can work all the trims out with that info and it gives us a good base to work from :) plus also we know what turbos work on the c1j we can compare them to what you have :)

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by JP Racing

Ok on a more serious note what are your power goals and do you want to future proof it in case you want more :) also do you want to run lower boost levels ie use a bigger turbo and have some lag or do you want to run a higher boost level and still have it very responsive with as small a unit you can get away with :) also what spec turbo do you currently have and I would like compressor size and turbine size I can work all the trims out with that info and it gives us a good base to work from :) plus also we know what turbos work on the c1j we can compare them to what you have :)

---

Jp continue this here

https://www.rtoc.org/boards/showthread.php?t=28903

Arrrrgghhhhhh

I have everything to get Fluffy back on the road good n proper, about 3 hours work, but I am being dogged by 'other stuff'. I've been trying to squeeze time on it since Thursday last week but don't get the opportunity. I thought I might get on it tonight, but the Mrs Cooper has just spat a wheel bearing FFS, got a carpet being fitted Saturday and I need to finish decorating that room! Just can't catch a break.

Is this just me, or does it seem like the world is against you sometimes.:confused:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by TNT ANDY

Is this just me, or does it seem like the world is against you sometimes.:confused:

---

It's not just you, saved up a little bit of money and sold some bits and bobs so I could do some work on mine, fence blew down, bye bye money :cry:

Saw a bank advert on tv, you may have seen it, the mustang fund, I laughed as it's so true

Well there we have it, back on the road again now with no issues. Big thanks to scoff and the lads @ Adaptronic, best customer service I've ever had from them both. The only trouble now, is that I spent most of yesterday out in a 300bhp VX220, and now my 5 feels slow.:sad2:

Bigger turbo, 35 psi and nitrous... ;) lol

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by TNT ANDY

Arrrrgghhhhhh

I have everything to get Fluffy back on the road good n proper, about 3 hours work, but I am being dogged by 'other stuff'. I've been trying to squeeze time on it since Thursday last week but don't get the opportunity. I thought I might get on it tonight, but the Mrs Cooper has just spat a wheel bearing FFS, got a carpet being fitted Saturday and I need to finish decorating that room! Just can't catch a break.

Is this just me, or does it seem like the world is against you sometimes.:confused:

---

At least mini wheel bearings are easy fella, £30 and a 20min job to replace the whole lot unbolts from the hub :-)

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Mr Raider

Bigger turbo, 35 psi and nitrous... ;) lol

---

LOL - definitely bigger turbo on the cards (later this year) 35psi:eek:, what do you think my name is? Jesus? LOL, and nitrous is for cheats.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by markey b

At least mini wheel bearings are easy fella, £30 and a 20min job to replace the whole lot unbolts from the hub :-)

---

Yeh , looks easy don't it. But when you realise that 4 out of 4 bolts are not accessible and are really badly corroded due to 93,000 miles exposed to the worst, then you find out the bolts are imperial sized (half inch):confused::confused::confused: just after you've rounded them off because you have used metric tools, yeh a piece of piss :laugh:

That said, it's done now.

Ah bad times, I've done a couple but must have got lucky by the sounds of it, used a 13mm without even thinking it could have been imperial, a wobble extension helped too as they were nicely tucked behind everything

At least u got it done tho. Back onto fluffy now?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by markey b

Ah bad times, I've done a couple but must have got lucky by the sounds of it, used a 13mm without even thinking it could have been imperial, a wobble extension helped too as they were nicely tucked behind everything

At least u got it done tho. Back onto fluffy now?

---

yup - new ecu in and running well, but interestingly enough, I've been looking at a comparable map on my turbo and it looks like I'm well of the scale when it comes to running above 16 psi. assuming I've done my calculations right. I can only run 16psi, anything above that and I'm just pushing hot air in.

I saw JP last week and we're going to have a look at some options, the 2552 spec which has been mentioned before seems to fit the bill perfectly. I'll write up about looking at maps etc on my 'Turbo spec' topic.

I got 210bhp @ 24psi from this blower, no wonder Scoff couldn't get any more out of it. It looks like the turbo I had custom made for 200bhp did what I asked but outside it's natural limits and inefficiently also.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by TNT ANDY

Yeh , looks easy don't it. But when you realise that 4 out of 4 bolts are not accessible and are really badly corroded due to 93,000 miles exposed to the worst, then you find out the bolts are imperial sized (half inch):confused::confused::confused: just after you've rounded them off because you have used metric tools, yeh a piece of piss :laugh:

That said, it's done now.

---

New style mini? Bottom ball join comes undone really easy pop shaft out gun bolts clean hub pop the new one on, easiest wheel bearing ever. Unless you try and do it with the shaft in situ...... Then it's a hitch :(

Everytime I see the title of this thread, I have a little giggle. . . .

. . . "Fluffy". :laugh:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Tony Walker

New style mini? Bottom ball join comes undone really easy pop shaft out gun bolts clean hub pop the new one on, easiest wheel bearing ever. Unless you try and do it with the shaft in situ...... Then it's a hitch :(

---

LOL - Thats exacly what I did:agree:

After looking at maps etc (I know I need to get back to this in the other thread) I have identified that @ 21 psi, I'm pushing the turbo I have way beyond it's limit. Looking at a similar map from a similar turbo, the max I can really push on this turbo is about 16 psi.
So that's what I've been doing this morning. I set it up for 16 psi and when for a blat.

:) is an understatement - it when very well, not as brutal as 21 psi, but cleaner, more solid and my charge cooler temps are in check now as I'm not simply shoving supper heated air into my engine. So 16 psi, is max for this set-up. I will get another turbo sorted for Fluff, but not this season as I'm too close to events now to be faffing around with her and tbh, I'm happy as she is. Later on this year and after a bit of experiment and hopefully if one or 2 of the members with bigger spec turbo's will take me out on national day and a good bit of chin wagging here and there, I should be able to get the right turbo for my needs.

I'll get some video up later.

:agree: sounds good.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Tony Walker

:agree: sounds good.

---

it really was, I'm so suprised at how good 16psi felt.

still need a bigger turbo though :laugh:

Not the most inspiring of vids as it was done on phone.

http://db.tt/Ofidqeka

Hope that works.

you running a dv on that andy?

check what psi its breaking at, as you might find its loosing you precious boost, some if not all come with low rating psi springs in them, and crack way to early when on it, above 8 psi normaly ;)
yes i know youve got vac line against it 99% of the time but its just a thought , yours maybe fine , i static checked all of mine (6 in total, including the tial 50mm) and all apart from the 2x rubber diaphram forge items and the fse recirc leaked past 14psi, even with springs correctly rated:(, i was well pissed of, as the tial was money too:cry:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by HAndy

you running a dv on that andy?

check what psi its breaking at, as you might find its loosing you precious boost, some if not all come with low rating psi springs in them, and crack way to early when on it, above 8 psi normaly ;)
yes i know youve got vac line against it 99% of the time but its just a thought , yours maybe fine , i static checked all of mine (6 in total, including the tial 50mm) and all apart from the 2x rubber diaphram forge items and the fse recirc leaked past 14psi, even with springs correctly rated:(, i was well pissed of, as the tial was money too:cry:

---

i have a vac pump, and I have a compressor - Shouldn't be to difficult. Thanks Handy

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by TNT ANDY

i have a vac pump, and I have a compressor - Shouldn't be to difficult. Thanks Handy

---

No leeks :agree:

And in a stupidly timed event, I've decided to chop the bottom half of my primary silencer off to try to get me the ground clearance I would like. I'm fed up with hitting speed bumps:mad:This is going to give me about 25mm height.

So I've got the middle bit folded in, but it's now too late to cut through the end flanges. Another day perhaps.

Also I've ordered some Yellow stuff pads to see how I get on with those.

BTW moderator - can you move this to projects section please, as it's never going to end.


:smokin:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by TNT ANDY

BTW moderator - can you move this to projects section please, as it's never going to end.

:pimp:

---

Done

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by TNT ANDY

Also I've ordered some Yellow stuff pads to see how I get on with those

---

:scared:

Note to self: Make sure Andy isn't following me at any point next weekend...

:D

EBC pads Andy? :scratch: really?

I'll second that too I'll let you lead mate didn't think of trying DS2500?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Mart

:scared:

Note to self: Make sure Andy isn't following me at any point next weekend...

:D

---

:laugh: Can't possibly be worse than the ones I have on now:laugh: But the new compound (introduced in 2011) is apparently very good. working up to 800 deg C and very sharp from cold. If they're ****e I'll report so and if I do stuff Fluff into something, it'll be the pads LOL.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Romil Davda

Done

---

:agree:

I didn't know you did that stuff. I mean apart from making money appear from nowhere:laugh: Donuts anyone. I think Jesus is a fake you're the real deal.

Ebc dog turd pads. Mintex 1155 padd are superb

I took a set of greenstuff pads out of benj's gtt at the weekend. They were about half way down, pulled the pad out of the carrier and the material came leaving the metal backing bit on the caliper. Absolute dog****e in my opinion.

Get some ferodo ds2500 or mintex 1144, far better ;)

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by TNT ANDY

But the new compound (introduced in 2011) is apparently very good. working up to 800 deg C and very sharp from cold

---

:coffee: Let me know how those brownstuffs pan out for you.

;)

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Kris M

Ebc dog turd pads. Mintex 1155 padd are superb

---

1155's are THE worst pad I have ever used, bar none. Waste of money.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Mart

:coffee: Let me know how those brownstuffs pan out for you.

;)

---

r
Will do, it's good to try the 'other' stuff every now and then, I might be pleasantly surprised. They will get the shake down on the french tour for all to see.

when you mean shake down ,is that after you stamped on the brakes , got no response and crashed into a section of armco ,done a few rolls and landed on your roof like a half baked turtle, spitting old bits of fresh green french foilage, followed by "**** those brakes are ****" :laugh::laugh::laugh:

Ive used greenstuff on a few trackdays now, day to day use there a tiny bit spongy but feel fantastic on track days once warmed up after a couple of corners. Never had any fade from them and i push pretty hard at Oulton now. im sure theres better pads but value for money (i got them through my local euro supplier for peanuts) they were fine.. i just cant justify the rediculous £££ im too used to buying pads for around£10-£15

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Tony Walker

Ive used greenstuff on a few trackdays now, day to day use there a tiny bit spongy but feel fantastic on track days once warmed up after a couple of corners. Never had any fade from them and i push pretty hard at Oulton now. im sure theres better pads but value for money (i got them through my local euro supplier for peanuts) they were fine.. i just cant justify the rediculous £££ im too used to buying pads for around£10-£15

---

Good to hear Tony. I'm never one to follow the masses, and I'm sure at some times, it's at my expense one way or another. I didn't go with green as there was so much bad press about them, but opted for the yellow as they seem perfect for what I need. I'll be bedding them in on the Euro trip and spanking them on the RTOC national day. Like I say, I'll soon let people know it they are ****e.

BTW a few miss-noma's

1 - My Exhaust manifold installed fibre to the head, metal to the manifold is not blowing. This is the 1st time I have achieved this.

2 - My '****e' turbo manifold gaskets are also fine despite boosting over 24psi. They are also not leaking.

This is working for me.

Cant remember how i put mine on but i put two on incase there were any discrepancys between the "crap" raceland manifold and the std inlet manifold and all is good :D

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Tony Walker

Cant remember how i put mine on but i put two on incase there were any discrepancys between the "crap" raceland manifold and the std inlet manifold and all is good :D

---

Have you still not broken that?:laugh:

Right, lets get those Yellows in there and see what all the fuss is about.

BTW, I had green stuff in there which were pants.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by TNT ANDY

Have you still not broken that?:laugh:

---

lol im trying my best. My greenstuff are nearly out so ill prob end up changing em at blyton. might be nice to compare. ive only got red dot ones to go in tho, they came with some discs i bought along time ago lol.

Yellows seem fantastic for normal driving, very sharp from cold, a lot better than my Green stuff pads I removed. Just need to see how they perform on track now. I also got some Ultimax for the rears which are yet to go in as per -

http://www.ebcbrakesdirect.com/car/info.asp

So, so far, very good - I know generally people state that the EBC stuff wears down quickly, but that really suits my needs as I do less than 3000 miles a year and I'd rather change my pads regularly than my disks.

But to reiterate - :agree: So far so good.

Just a bit of an update really.

As we all know I can't drive for **** as per Blyton again. This came about from the extremely good breaking force offered from my new ecb rear brake pads (ebc Ulimax)biteing a bit better than my old pads therefore sensing my bias out of the window and sensing my back end out upon heavy braking. So the pads are good, no fading etc, just continuous good braking.

My Cosworth intercooler and my T25 will be coming off and as we speak my newly aquired GT2860r is off toCR for a .49 rear housing and a billet compressor whilst it's there which should give me the extra capacitytop end and also let me have more power if needed, but more importantly allow me to run my existing power with less boost. I'm pretty happy with my power atm but the top end cholks up after 6500 room which is letting me down especially on track. Don't get me wrong, my current turbo is great and delivers very well, but this is now becoming addictive.

So to summerise, my car has a few more dents and looking worse for wear, but hopefully will be going faster.

Next up new tires

good news andy, what extra bhp are you hoping to achieve from the new turbo over the old one?? fluffs will be happy:laugh::laugh::agree:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by R5MJH

good news andy, what extra bhp are you hoping to achieve from the new turbo over the old one?? fluffs will be happy:laugh::laugh::agree:

---

230 would be nice.

T28 Going on shortly!
:)

Mmmm mmmm mmmm, big boost bruvva?! ;)

reminds me i must do mikes t28 soon wiv the old screamer and external wastegate pmsl:laugh:

Ahh the magical 230hp....... I'm sure with that blower it won't be a problem ;) with lots of scope for more should the "addiction" continue. :agree:

Looking forward to this next stage of development.

Thanks for the comments guys. The 230bhp is really an estimate really, I'm not too fussed if it doesn't make that. I'll be happy to make the same power at less boost to be honest. It's becoming a geeky kind of project for me. Also will be nice to he a roller bearing turbo on there and see what that does from a characteristic point of view.

Will you be selling the t25 when you swap to t28 Andy? I could well be interested if so.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Slammed 66

Will you be sellingthe t25 when you swap to t28 Andy? I could well be interested if so.

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Yes, dependant on how well the T28 performs that is.

Cool beans.

Keep me in the loop please dude :)

Go for 250hp and up over with efi matey, make full use of it;)

I'll leave that in the hands of the Scoff Mr Briggs:agree:

Well the Turbo and BMS downpipe are on, and hanging off that lot is the Dave Reed Sidey which I'm very excited to here on ol' Fluffy. I'ts all just mocked up at the moment as there is a fair amount of adjusting to be done on the exhaust in so much as very small adjustments to the bottom bracket, and adding a few mounting points as I make my way back.

as always, no hurry's at this end. Just waiting for some bit's n bobs to turn up, Heli-coil kit for the Turbo so that I can fix the studs in place on the bottom 2 fixings and just waiting for Hel performance (Hose solutions) to to get back to me in respect to my AN-4 oil feed which needs to be made up.

Then off to Scoff again.

https://www.rtoc.org/files/Miscellane...66589743_n.jpg

https://www.rtoc.org/files/Miscellane...79250787_n.jpg

Just a few of the old and the new - I'll get some more photo's up once I'm back in the garage.

Each wheel is bigger by 5mm and the front is billet, the back end is .49 the front end is quite large @ .80

Wonder how this will work?

Should be interesting, again the EFI and scoffs magic should be able to help get that big bruiser of a blower (for a c1j anyway) up to speed as quickly as possible. :agree:

Got the T28 / bms downpipe mocked and hanging on there -

https://www.rtoc.org/files/Miscellane...19758263_n.jpg

Hopefully the silencer will keep my trackday scrutineers happy


https://www.rtoc.org/files/Miscellane...00838907_n.jpg

Also a great and simple mod is the lower exhaust bracket that came with this exhaust (Dave Reed) which replaces the original awkward and bulky item, I'll get some better pictures up once I get back in the garage.


https://www.rtoc.org/files/Miscellane...08_n%20(1).jpg


And the last piece of the jigsaw is the oil feed which I'm just waiting on Ben at Hel performance - Formally hose solutions to come up with a short pipe from -4 to -4 with a 90 degree bend on it.

https://www.rtoc.org/files/Miscellane...69641134_n.jpg

https://www.rtoc.org/files/Miscellane...03329258_n.jpg


So all is good.

Whilst looking at threads etc, I came across a handy little app if anybody is interested.


https://play.google.com/store/apps/d...kr.sira.thread

It works surprisingly well.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by TNT ANDY

Whilst looking at threads etc, I came across a handy little app if anybody is interested.

https://play.google.com/store/apps/d...kr.sira.thread

It works surprisingly well.

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Bloody handy that! :agree:

Looking good fella :)

New tyres I hear you say! Does that mean your aiming to get past the first corner?

Why not go on the bay and order up the parts you need for your oil feed from ASH ?

Don't forget you need a resrictor in your oil feed on a dollar bearing setup.

Hope the turbocharger won't let you down mate! As i said it's a bit big for a c1j but the .49 housing will help!

What base housing did they use as .49 rear as it isn't a standard supplied housing.
One thing i'm sure about though, it will be able to deliver 300bhp!

I bought all my AN couplings at Torques UK