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That probably would've result in clutch slip too..
check the threads, ive seen oil leak through flywheel bolts before now. crazy stuff but its possible, locktite was the cure.
I always do that :(
markey b
20-06-2012, 10:04
scrap it oli :agree:
as above, bet you its oil coming through the flywheel bolt holes, commonly mis-diagnosed on the F7 as crank oil seal. I've locktited and tigersealed mine in this time ;-)
diesel gearbox is fail, I ran a R19TDi one on mine for a while, the ratios were stupid long, lost all the fizz from the engine, 172 JC5 imo :cool:
That probably would've result in clutch slip too..
not is the oil leaks behind the flywheel it wouldn't, it may sound impossible but it does, Dan's did the same, all he did was remove flywheel, refit and properly locktite'd it and it cured the leak, he didn't touch anything else
I went one step further and put a dab of tigerseal on the underside of the head and first few threads of the bolt (nearest head) and locktited the bottom threads. :smokin:
my first crankseal leaked (i thought) so removed it and placed a new one, both times i locktited the flybolts however it still leaks:crap:
Clutch side of the flywheel was dry, no evidence oil at all, not much oil on the back either and none on the crank seal, looks more like the 2 seals either side of the bearing cap :(
diesel gearbox is fail, I ran a R19TDi one on mine for a while, the ratios were stupid long, lost all the fizz from the engine, 172 JC5 imo :cool:
Is that the same ratios as on a laguna diesel gearbox? as thats what I've got and I don't find the ratios that long
not a clue, all I know was it' do over 100 in 3rd :eek:
markey b
20-06-2012, 16:37
not a clue, all I know was it' do over 100 in 3rd :eek:
sounds like the other halves zetec KA on a 1.3 box :laugh:
crank seal from the kits is pap too, too thin, need an OE black deep one and some sealant to make good
it was useless though, ratios were just too long to keep it on full boost, I popped it at pod though pretty quickly so it was swapped straight out! :laugh:
I had the crank seal from the ebay kit and it's much beefier than the oe one!
Could well be due to the wheel size of a laguna, it has larger wheels so probably a shorter final gear to compensate...
The engine is all back together and back in the bay but I'm taking advantage of the charge cooler being to improve it.
First off I'll get the boost in and out ports changed from 55mm to 63mm.
Second the whole coolant system will be changed from 13mm to 25mm, the charge cooler and pre red will need adjustment.
Third the front bumper needs opening up to improve airflow to the pre rad but this is where I'm having trouble making a choice, I could easy take another inch out of the recess but there's still 80mm of rad covered.
Do I cut the whole front out, drill 60mm holes across the front to maintain strength or just trim a little bit out?
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/0a2b42ef.jpg
markey b
29-06-2012, 14:10
The engine is all back together and back in the bay but I'm taking advantage of the charge cooler being to improve it.
First off I'll get the boost in and out ports changed from 55mm to 63mm.
Second the whole coolant system will be changed from 13mm to 25mm, the charge cooler and pre red will need adjustment.
Third the front bumper needs opening up to improve airflow to the pre rad but this is where I'm having trouble making a choice, I could easy take another inch out of the recess but there's still 80mm of rad covered.
Do I cut the whole front out, drill 60mm holes across the front to maintain strength or just trim a little bit out?
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/0a2b42ef.jpg
have u considered a front mount intercooler? less pissing about, no rads to leak, no electrics to play up, and looks better too :laugh:
1 of the mods to the charge cooler system is a bigger header tank but space in the engine bay is non existant, so it'll go where the battery normally lives and the battery will go in the boot, this will help with weight distribution as a bonus for making space in the front.
But battery cable is chuffing exspensive stuff, coming in at 9quid a metre for 25mm :( fortunately I know I guy and got 35mm at 6quid a metre :D a quick trip to halfrauds for an isolation switch to live where the battery normally would and some late ring crimps robbed from work and all is good :D
Just need to make up a battery clamp, for this ill use 2 lengths of M10 threaded rod, a number of lock nuts and washers and finally a length a ally box section with 1 side cut out to lock either side of the battery to prevent movement.
hole cutter, leave 35mm min gap between hole edges or close to, once you've marked your centres , that way you will retain some strength in the bumper, whilst lightening the load:D
i would cut the holes above on the upper face of your bumper, as that will have the most effective flow to the rad and cooler, pretty certain where you've marked is where the slam panel is located, check before you start drilling. just in case:ashamed:
Hi oli will you need to drill holes in the bumper maybe try it as it is first I have the standard size c/cooler rad behind a standard front grill and dont ever see charge temps higher than 34 degrees on full boost but saying that it could run cooler as I have the tank mounted in the scuttle
Just a thought mate
Phil
My battery is now mounted in the boot, I used a length of ally box section with 1 side taken out so it looks across the top of the battery.
I use threaded rod either side bolted through the boot floor, while I was under the back I gave the underside of the boot floor a quick spray with underseal.
I earthed the battery to the boot lock and the threaded rod, I will add another earth that'll go all the way to the engine bay.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/0bbffc10.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/1d38187f.jpg
Looks a bit hoyed in place oz get it in a proper box
Looks a bit hoyed in place oz get it in a proper box
Doesn't move an inch fella, I got hold of the battery and pulled on it and started bending the boot floor and it still didn't move from under the bar
Its not the movement its the bare terminals, when you corner hard and that metal chair in the back arcs out on them boom? Lol
ai, at least cap the terminals fella, wont have to worry about slinging stuff in boot then :agree:
markey b
06-07-2012, 12:50
My battery is now mounted in the boot, I used a length of ally box section with 1 side taken out so it looks across the top of the battery.
I use threaded rod either side bolted through the boot floor, while I was under the back I gave the underside of the boot floor a quick spray with underseal.
I earthed the battery to the boot lock and the threaded rod, I will add another earth that'll go all the way to the engine bay.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/0bbffc10.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/1d38187f.jpg
battery in boot.... 6 years too late :agree:
Romil Davda
06-07-2012, 13:09
Standard Ariel is all good, apart from when the holding screw comes loose and knocks against the roof of the car (sorry no pics) but Phil has a short stubby ariel, this looked well sweet.
Its not the movement its the bare terminals, when you corner hard and that metal chair in the back arcs out on them boom? Lol
That chair doesn't live in there, it's just in there while I work on the car
ai, at least cap the terminals fella, wont have to worry about slinging stuff in boot then :agree:
I was thinkin I'd do that
battery in boot.... 6 years too late :agree:
Nuts to u butterbean ;)
Thanks to JP's welding friend my charge cooler and pre rad are now modified to better improve the flow of boosted air and the coolant, with any luck this should keep the charge temps down low.
all up and running now then?
im still clutchless!!!!!!
****ing useless old **** at helix wants shooting:mad:
all up and running now then?
im still clutchless!!!!!!
****ing useless old **** at helix wants shooting:mad:
Not yet, gunna try and get it done tonight.
Your joking! What is their excuse this time???
gttjames
12-07-2012, 19:09
The engine is all back together and back in the bay but I'm taking advantage of the charge cooler being to improve it.
First off I'll get the boost in and out ports changed from 55mm to 63mm.
Second the whole coolant system will be changed from 13mm to 25mm, the charge cooler and pre red will need adjustment.
Third the front bumper needs opening up to improve airflow to the pre rad but this is where I'm having trouble making a choice, I could easy take another inch out of the recess but there's still 80mm of rad covered.
Do I cut the whole front out, drill 60mm holes across the front to maintain strength or just trim a little bit out?
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/0a2b42ef.jpg
personally not a fan of the holes look bumpers, heres what iv done with, got a nice big open bit but also not lost loads of bumper, and left the corners so i can mount a no.plate still if i need to
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a371/sr50james/r5done005.jpg
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a371/sr50james/fmic2011paintedit.jpg
Ah crap, wish id seen that last night, already taken the hole saw to the front bumper :/
Oh well, it's done now and the new charge cooler setup is in and complete, because of the increase in coolant line size I found there were a lot of bleeding issues, the main 1 was down to the fact the charge cooler only has the 13mm ports on it and I was using reducers to increase and decrease the hose size before and after the cooler.
Because the hose coming out of the cooler went from 13mm to 25mm it caused a void that the flow couldn't fill causing more air bubbles in the system.
So I fitted 13mm hose from the cooler to the header tank and moved the water pump as low as possible which means the header drains straight into the pump elimnating another airlock. Job done :)
I had the ports on the charge cooler increased from 55mm to 63mm and the top port moved to the side, this allowed me to shorten the boost circuit and remove 2 overly tight bends from the system.
Thought it was time to upload some pics of the new charge cooler setup
Can anyone spot where the pump is for the cc system? :)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/e6aba44a.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/71515a5c.jpg
And here's the front end now it's been opened up for airflow, not exactly sleeper style anymore but needs must
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/fb6c28f5.jpg
Can you give us a clue where the pump is its quite hard to see on an iPhone its definatly not where mine is ;)
Can you give us a clue where the pump is not hard to see on an iPhone is definatly not where mine is ;)
Under the n/s headlight i think (had mine under there just enough space
Under the n/s headlight i think (had mine under there just enough space
Still can't really see but if it's under the head light that is a similar place to mine ;)
JP Racing
16-07-2012, 09:21
I think it's on the roof lol with that massive wing you have glued on ;)
Under the n/s headlight i think (had mine under there just enough space
Yep, give that boy a gold star :)
I put it there as it was the lowest point I could get it yet still be above the pre rad so the pump doesn't have to draw the water upwards at any point, the water drains straight from the header tank straight into it meaning it's dead easy to bleed the system :)
I think it's on the roof lol with that massive wing you have glued on ;)
Nah that was HAndy ;)
markey b
17-07-2012, 00:18
thats alot of faff when you could have just fitted an intercooler..... :scratch:
GTT a pair of Clio valver hubs fitted with new bearings and on the car tonight, they could do with a lick of paint but that can wait till after national day.
The turbo oil feed was leaking from the T piece where the pressure gauge connected so I ordered a new T piece and unions, they turned up Wednesday and I got those fitted tonight aswell, unfortunately the adaptor to fit the gauge pipe was the wrong thread but the replacement is on the way, hopefully here on Monday.
I'll be honest with the weather the way it is I might let the 5 miss this year and bring the 9 instead, plus the 9 would be a laugh in the wet on track :)
TNT ANDY
20-07-2012, 06:29
GTT a pair of Clio valver hubs fitted with new bearings and on the car tonight, they could do with a lick of paint but that can wait till after national day.
The turbo oil feed was leaking from the T piece where the pressure gauge connected so I ordered a new T piece and unions, they turned up Wednesday and I got those fitted tonight aswell, unfortunately the adaptor to fit the gauge pipe was the wrong thread but the replacement is on the way, hopefully here on Monday.
I'll be honest with the weather the way it is I might let the 5 miss this year and bring the 9 instead, plus the 9 would be a laugh in the wet on track :)
You tart - you just can't bear the thought of being wooped by a 1.4 8 valve.
But on a positive note - the weather next week looks set to be good, so no exuses.
And on another positive note - good work on the 5, can't wait to see yours and JP's side by side. Shame Handy's won't be there.
You tart - you just can't bear the thought of being wooped by a 1.4 8 valve.
But on a positive note - the weather next week looks set to be good, so no exuses.
And on another positive note - good work on the 5, can't wait to see yours and JP's side by side. Shame Handy's won't be there.
Thing is I've track time booked and the 5 won't be mapped for anything over 5psi in time to use it properly, 5psi should be quick but because of the increase in turbo size it feels really flat, I might be able to get some live mapping done in time but I don't feel safe ragging it, where as the 9 I'll rag the tits off it all day long only stopping for fuel and oil:D
When I put the 5 back together I had to clean up the throttle body and the TPS got shifted so when I got it started it was running rough as, at idle it was running rich, in the 9's infact :eek: it wouldn't run right at all, misfiring all over the place.
30 seconds with the laptop connected and she's running sweet as after resetting the TPS :D
Now all I need to do is hope the header tank cap holds after I ran over it after forgetting to put it back on before a test drive and hope the coolant system issue I was having is sorted.
See you all at Blyton :D
Well I'm back from Blyton and what a great weekend, from the oil slick in my engine bay to Mad Andy's 20 second from start to spin lap :D was an interesting weekend for sure.
The toaster managed 3 fast laps before I got black flagged for smoke coming off my front wheel which turned out to be about 2 litres of oil coming out of the engine :( but fortunately the F7R has a large oil capacity so a top up and it was fine.
As for how it got out in the first place........ :scared: it was my fault, because I'm not using the cambelt covers the mounting holes were left open, 1 of those passes right through into the engine :rolleyes: thanks to JP and Handy for managing to get a bolt in there even while the engine was hot, The Master for the use of his trolley jack and another who's name I can't remember (sorry fella, I'm crap at names) for giving me the bolt, you had the Volvo engine'd white Clio.
Apart from the oil loss the track showed the suspension needs setting up desperately as coming out of every corner the back end kept stepping out:eek:
And finally the engine it's self, even though it was running 3psi on a safe map it went like a fecking rocket:eek: I totally didn't expect it because of the long geared diesel gearbox but it didn't cause any issues, infact I only needed to go into forth once per lap of the straight after the long sweeping left hander.
and i failed completely to have a poke around the engine
i did manage to corner JP for quite a while and nosey over his build though, come away with some cooling ideas to perhaps reduce my inlet temps a tad from the 58 i was seeing on track:cool:
so the Pace chargecooler isn't that great afterall?
markey b
30-07-2012, 13:52
so the Pace chargecooler isn't that great afterall?
i dont think that any are after their weekend testing :laugh::laugh::laugh:
Lol, if i get what you're saying they atleast give them the beans!
so the Pace chargecooler isn't that great afterall?
I wouldn't say the core itself isn't any good, I'd say it's the pre rad, header tank and the size of the coolant lines that let it down
mine was fine, ran 58 degrees absolute peak at 16psi all day on track, standard everything
After I managed to break the cap on my bailey header tank the Friday before national day I've been trying to get a new one and it turns out there ruddy exspensive :crap:
So I ordered one of Shakal's OE jobs with a blue cap, gotta say awesome part fella, does the job perfectly and the fitment is spot on, nice work dude :agree:
markey b
09-08-2012, 09:44
bailey cap is a ford cap dude, about £4 from motorspares :laugh:
bailey cap is a ford cap dude, about £4 from motorspares :laugh:
C**K
markey b
09-08-2012, 13:32
u penis... next time.... let me know ur problems and i'll sort them! haha
u penis... next time.... let me know ur problems and i'll sort them! haha
I did........ Doesn't matter, I was getting board of how tatty it was looking anyway
Time for a couple of upgrades
first off the cooling system needed attention, the clip rad was ok for the T28 turbo but the GT3071r being roller bearing relies on coolant more than oil so my temps were up a worrying amount so it was time for a change
1 alloy golf gti rad and a pair of 7" fans
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/0CFD963D-9D7D-4C91-AF48-A170C791F38F-5920-0000072F87C9C49D.jpg
A pair a piper verniers which I'll fit next time I pull the belt off which shouldn't be long from now
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/BA5A24F0-CD81-49AE-9D82-C34B561A5B90-5920-0000072F90018482.jpg
Nice one mate! Looks like the gti rad will be up to the job!
For what gti is it, 2?
Maybe a good one for my 5....
Nice one mate! Looks like the gti rad will be up to the job!
For what gti is it, 2?
Maybe a good one for my 5....
Yeah I nicked the idea off JP, he's got 1 of these rad with a single 10" fan and it cools perfectly. This is the 430x323x40 core job.
Here's the eBay no. for it
221046620636
Finally sorted the over heating issue, turns out the stat was shot, 4quid at motorspares and a new stat see's 89-90c running temps damn near in the 70's with the fans on :)
Finally sorted the over heating issue, turns out the stat was shot, 4quid at motorspares and a new stat see's 89-90c running temps damn near in the 70's with the fans on :)
Easy fix :agree:
Got a stinking cold so doing naff all on the car but got board so I broke out the rattle cans and er, well, see for self.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/CD922CFC-53C9-4A55-B73F-13961B4D6A0D-10110-00000CB5384FA5A9.jpg
Not much replies! Are they on yet?
And how's the Kinugawa actuator doing? I'm consideringbuying one too for my new spec..
Not yet, I'm building up a stack of parts to fit in one go, so far I've got
Cam pullies
Cams
560cc injectors
PTFE inlet manifold gasket
Still need
Cambelt
Camshaft oil seals
Oil filter
Oil
Time
Money
Patience
My actuator is forge job, the turbine housing is a Kinuagwa job and so far is working perfectly
what cams do you have mate?
what cams do you have mate?
Stock valver items, turns out they have more lift than standard megane items and less overlap, ok not perfect as there still designed for a non turbo application, Williams cams would probably be better but they cost a fortune and these cost me 35quid so they'll do just fine.
Clio Williams cams sell for about £50 thats what I paid for mine
Clio Williams cams sell for about £50 thats what I paid for mine
How long ago was that? I can't find any under 150quid
About a month ago, I will find the other person who was offering one on my post for same price for you
http://williamsclio.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?41781-Williams-Cams-or-cams-which-will-suit-a-valver-turbo
Matty W has one with a williams head, worth seeing if he has still got them, but £50 is about the going rate for them.
Well I've done bugger all to the 5 apart from ordering parts for months so its time I got something done.
First off I've removed the inlet manifold, cleaned all the sealing paste off and fitted the PTFE inlet gasket.
Second I removed the cams so I could measure and compare them to the valver cams I have and the result is.......... Next to bugger all difference in lift and duration :/
Oh well the stock megane cams have gone back in for now until I can get hold of some Williams jobs.
Finally had enough of the problems I'm having with the ecu loom so I've ripped it out so I can start again and a good job I did, I found so many faults its scary, the worst I found so far was a live wire from the new fuel pump relay which had been taken to the OE relay position and then pushed into the terminal without any sort of spade crimp on the end :mad: why oh why did I trust someone else to do make the loom :mad: :mad: :mad:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/4C59B347-661C-4152-8853-6D84A88CEEFE-2687-000004B45F28A25A.jpg
Here's the new flying loom including cam sensor wiring, 8 injector plugs, coil pack plug, 2x 3pin connectors and 10metres of loom covering and 3 relay bases.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/BEB0DBA4-0E48-4340-9B11-67627E4D198B-2687-000004B458812803.jpg
Nad-5GTT
20-02-2013, 19:45
Crikey someone made that loom for you:eek: I enjoy doing electrics, haven't got a clue what I'm doing mind :laugh:
Crikey someone made that loom for you:eek: I enjoy doing electrics, haven't got a clue what I'm doing mind :laugh:
I told the guy to wait till he had the car so he could see where everything was going before making the loom but he didn't and went ahead and made the loom anyway and ended up having to extend every wire :/ I later started having issues with the coil pack and injectors, turns out he looped the wires together and then introduced them to the solder and a bit of of tape, but didn't stagger the joints so when the tape fell off the joints were shorting out on each other :/ to date I've cut 15 joints out of this loom but I've had enough of trying to sort it and starting from scratch
Spent abit of time going through the old loom seeing what I had and what wiring I needed to add to the new loom when I came across a choice
do I wire the 4 injectors for sequential firing or do I wire for the possibility of 8 injectors batch fired if I feel the need for more power at a later date?
Opinions please
Had a couple of hours to kill tonight so I've started to assemble the loom, first off the mount for the relays, the old loom had 2, the new has 5. The old setup should of had 1 for the fuel pump, 1 for the injectors and coil and 1 for the idle valve and boost solinoid, but had been wired wrong so the fuel pump and injectors were grouped together and the coil, solenoid and valve were together :sad2:
So my new setup will be:-
Relay 1 fuel pump
Relay 2 injectors (on there own as I've wired for 8 injectors)
Relay 3 ignition coil
Relay 4 boost solenoid and idle valve
Relay 5 ecu supply (the old ecu supply seemed to drop off abit under heavy load, not good)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/0884F367-798D-4867-94CA-D07A790FD844-7357-00000C7CB68C45F8.jpg
This is the flying loom with every wire needed finally in place, just need to route and measure so they can be cut and made off
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/7C80387E-FAD6-4EC5-8185-63ADDEFBAD52-7357-00000C7CA95B42A8.jpg
good work mr stanley:cooter:
Tony Walker
27-02-2013, 19:58
Wish i could muster the effort to make a new loom.... top job for doing it :agree:
Wish i could muster the effort to make a new loom.... top job for doing it :agree:
In my case it's more of nacessaty rather than a nicety :/
Dave Reed
27-02-2013, 20:57
Why so many relays? IMO your complicating things and it'll go wrong
There are severale reasons
Relay 1 is for the fuel pump, self explanatory really as the ecu only runs the fuel pump if the engine is turning so in the event of a crash and the engine stops fuel doesn't keep getting forced up the lines.
Relay 2 is for the injector supply, normally emerald say this should go on the same relay as the coil pack on 4 cyclinder engines but since I'm going to be running a second set of injectors later on it made sense to split them.
Relay 3 is for the coil and I'd prefer to have the maximum power potential for the coil pack to guarantee a strong spark.
Relay 4 is for the boost control solenoid and idle control valve, these being together isn't a problem as neither will be in use at the same time, the emerald system calls for both to have an ignition live and it's easier adding another relay than chopping the OE loom more than it already has.
Relay 5 is the ecu supply, as I mentioned before the ignition live that had been used before wasn't a very good one, it was the OE supply for the AEI module but the ECU requires a bit more juice than the AEI did and I did find the ECU was experincing a voltage drop off under heavy load and again emerald do surguest that older cars converted to run an ECU might require an additional relay.
Yes more relays might be more complicated but if I have any problems it'll be easier to narrow down the problem as everything is seperate so instead of losing everything if a relay goes down I only loose 1 componante
TNT ANDY
28-02-2013, 06:27
There are severale reasons
Relay 1 is for the fuel pump, self explanatory really as the ecu only runs the fuel pump if the engine is turning so in the event of a crash and the engine stops fuel doesn't keep getting forced up the lines. ok I'll go with this one
Relay 2 is for the injector supply, normally emerald say this should go on the same relay as the coil pack on 4 cyclinder engines but since I'm going to be running a second set of injectors later on it made sense to split them.Can't see any logic in this, as the ECU only provides a path back to ground, having 2 sets of relays to 'split' the feeds to the injectors will achieve nothing. Like DR states, you're making trouble for yourself.
Relay 3 is for the coil and I'd prefer to have the maximum power potential for the coil pack to guarantee a strong spark.Utter Guff - If you want to introduce the potential for less power getting to your coil within a 12v system - stick a relay in the way - it makes no sense.
Relay 4 is for the boost control solenoid and idle control valve, these being together isn't a problem as neither will be in use at the same time, the emerald system calls for both to have an ignition live and it's easier adding another relay than chopping the OE loom more than it already has.Nonsense - you've chopped something to integrate the relay, and I guess the signal wire operating the relay is an ignition live?
Relay 5 is the ecu supply, as I mentioned before the ignition live that had been used before wasn't a very good one, it was the OE supply for the AEI module but the ECU requires a bit more juice than the AEI did and I did find the ECU was experincing a voltage drop off under heavy load and again emerald do surguest that older cars converted to run an ECU might require an additional relay.You can have that one
Yes more relays might be more complicated but if I have any problems it'll be easier to narrow down the problem as everything is seperate so instead of losing everything if a relay goes down I only loose 1 componante
Sorry Oli - I'm with Dave on this, It might look pretty and 'Back to the future but I would say generally unnecessary. KISS - Keep It Simple Stupid!
Dave Reed
28-02-2013, 09:14
Fair enough mate, I was just pointing out its alot of unnecessary work, but then I'm not familiar with emerald, and if they suggest it then better to stick with what they say..
O btw, make sure you mount the fuel pump relay a close as you can to the fuel pump, or you might suffer volt drop.. Also you run a relay for the f/p due to the current draw it requires to run, other wise you would need like 16 gauge cable to stop the volt drop, in fact that's why u use relay's, hence why I said it seems a lot of work as the other ciricuits don't have high current draw..
I will however add, it won't hurt anything to run them :D
Sorry Oli - I'm with Dave on this, It might look pretty and 'Back to the future but I would say generally unnecessary. KISS - Keep It Simple Stupid!
On relay 2 when I said split them I meant split the feed to the injectors and coil pack to seperate relays so I a have the coil on 1 and the feed for 8 injectors on the other.
On relay 3 the emerald instructions call for the coil to be on a relay so that's what I've done, don't know if the fact it's a wasted spark coil pack compared to the factory single coil and dizzy setup makes any difference.
On relay 3 again the emerald instructions calls for a relay live for both the boost solenoid and idle control valve, before they had been tacked onto the coil pack relay.
Believe me I'm keeping it simple compared to the spiders web of wires the old loom was, everything will be laid out neatly and everything labeled so its easterly identified in hurry if need be.
Fair enough mate, I was just pointing out its alot of unnecessary work, but then I'm not familiar with emerald, and if they suggest it then better to stick with what they say..
O btw, make sure you mount the fuel pump relay a close as you can to the fuel pump, or you might suffer volt drop.. Also you run a relay for the f/p due to the current draw it requires to run, other wise you would need like 16 gauge cable to stop the volt drop, in fact that's why u use relay's, hence why I said it seems a lot of work as the other ciricuits don't have high current draw..
I will however add, it won't hurt anything to run them :D
I'm using a nice heavy gauge wire to feed the fuel pump, the relay will be in the glove box along with the rest.
I've not looked properly at the OE wiring size but the relay for that is behind the glove box, don't know if its different on a ph2 maybe?
For the labelling of the loom, I printed small labels then put some clear heatshrink over them by the connectors so you know what goes where.
As for relays. I've rewired my whole car and everything is fused and relayed.
For the labelling of the loom, I printed small labels then put some clear heatshrink over them by the connectors so you know what goes where.
As for relays. I've rewired my whole car and everything is fused and relayed.
I'm doing the same thing, yellow heat shrink to write on then clear shrink over the top
The loom is coming together nicely, the bulk of the loom passes from the glovebox, through the scuttle area and into the engine bay in 20mm plastic wiring conduit. From there it'll spy dee off to the various plugs in braided sleveing. It's all measure up so I've taken in back out and into the house to make off all the ends before offering it back up to measure wiring to the battery, fuel pump, tacho signal, ignition live and shift light wiring
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/E1F979B3-F855-45DF-9514-CA9170393727-819-0000011D140C2B4C.jpg
Been at it since 5 when I got in from work and its now midnight but the main loom is complete, all the plugs fitted, sleveing on, heat shrink on and labels done, looks 100 times better than the old loom.
Just need to refit it to the car, connect the map switch wiring, route the wiring to the fuel pump, route the wiring to the battery and ignition and make up the new injector loom.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/33940DE9-96F3-4A5F-8DD8-9460B6CB024F-819-000001272C132560.jpg
Tony Walker
28-02-2013, 23:58
Looks great.... very OE :D:agree:
Looks great.... very OE :D:agree:
I dunno about that but it won't stand out as much as the loom did, the old loom most of it passed along the gearbox end of the cam cover, the new loom is all together in the conduit down from the scuttle and across the top of the gearbox before popping up near the lifting eye
Nad-5GTT
01-03-2013, 09:25
Good job.
That sir looks like excellent work, well done. :)
Cheers guys :)
Got the main loom fitted to the car and all the battery + & - and ignition lives routed into the scuttle area ready for final connection.
Got the new injector loom made up to, surprisingly it was harder to get right than the main loom :/
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/1930E09E-E2E9-4DAC-840A-ABCD6E605D4E-914-0000010963E8487F.jpg
TNT ANDY
03-03-2013, 12:46
Very nicely done Ol, very nice.
Another night and more progress, got the injector loom fitted, finished tidying up the wiring in the scuttle area and connecting the battery feed, negative and ignition live to the new ecu loom, it all looks so much tidier now :)
Unforunatly the battery is flat and the starter motor doesn't want to play so the first start up will have to wait abit longer.
The battery isolation switch has a new stealth mount, thought it was a good idea for it to be fixed to something instead of just sitting in the scuttle area, I've mounted it so its just underneath the scuttle cover with a hole in it so the key sticks through the cover.
The new oil catch can is fitted and new oil breather pipes fitted, its only a cheap ebay can but it cant be any worse than the piece of crap i had before which because it's flawed designed the vapours including any oil came straight back out again instead of being caught in the can.
The washer jet bottle is now mounted in the boot, why you ask, well since the F7R went in the car has been nose heavy and the back in very lite so it's become auite tail happy, so along with the battery the washer jet bottle is now in the boot to try to get the weight balance abit better, since I don't have a rear wiper I linked both pumps together to feed the front washers for that little bit extra flow.
For those that want to see how the washer bottle is in the back, here you go
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/06C1369A-885A-414D-80F1-7FE7E0FCF4F1-4301-0000061BB3A333AD.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/841706F4-752A-41D3-A054-4C83C47CAB0A-4301-0000061BBCA6C733.jpg
TNT Tricky Nicky
07-03-2013, 21:24
Next time you're down the scrap yard have a look at the vw polos washer bottles, they're rectangular and slide onto a bracket which you can also steal and pop rivet up out of the way, they're very similar to what Ross uses, if you've seen his
Mr Raider
07-03-2013, 21:41
Been busy Ol, is there still room to kip in the car for ND? ;)
Wtf are the wires running off the batt out the boot lol!
Them washer bottles are so rank lol
Next time you're down the scrap yard have a look at the vw polos washer bottles, they're rectangular and slide onto a bracket which you can also steal and pop rivet up out of the way, they're very similar to what Ross uses, if you've seen his
Noted, thanks fella
Been busy Ol, is there still room to kip in the car for ND? ;)
Nope, tent from now on or in the 9
Wtf are the wires running off the batt out the boot lol!
Them washer bottles are so rank lol
There off the battery charger
I know but it is 26 years old
Bbbbbrrrrrrrrrraaaaaaaaapppppppppp
TNT ANDY
10-03-2013, 19:46
You're board arn't you?:sad2:
You're board arn't you?:sad2:
A little yes but the main thing is she's running :)
Had abit of time Sunday morning so I dragged the 5 out the garage, mopped up all the water in the foot wells and got on with sorting a few issues.
First I finished the new breather system with a new filter but I'm considering modifying the tank so it has 2 ports for breather pipes and the filter on the top.
Second dropped the oil and filter and fitted new, so nice putting new golden oil in :)
What filters do others use on their non C1j engines? The standard part for that engine (in my case the F7R) or something else?
And third, chucked the bonnet on, cleared out the drivers seat and went for a rip :burnrubber:
All seems good ready for mapping on Friday, 300bhp is my initial target for this year even though it could easy make more. Next year when I've saved up some funds ill look at a different gearbox, tubular manifold and inlet with twin injectors and then wind it right up :)
would just like to wish the oli, aka" the ipswich" the best of luck on friday for his third but not last mapping session of his ever evolving renault 5gt turbo, (im not the only one then;)) hope it all goes well , and if anyone else from the east end massive can make it, its 10am onwards @emeralds of watton:)
ps rumour has it oli's buying every one from the rtoc who turns up, a free breakfast stick!!!!:eek::eek:
would just like to wish the oli, aka" the ipswich" the best of luck on friday for his third but not last mapping session of his ever evolving renault 5gt turbo, (im not the only one then;)) hope it all goes well , and if anyone else from the east end massive can make it, its 10am onwards @emeralds of watton:)
ps rumour has it oli's buying every one from the rtoc who turns up, a free breakfast stick!!!!:eek::eek:
Thanks Andy..... I think lol
But no it's a lie, it's Andy who will be buying the breakfast stick ;)
TNT Tricky Nicky
20-03-2013, 10:50
If you're still around at 12ish I'll stop off and you can buy me a breakfast stick for my lunch :laugh:
Mr Raider
20-03-2013, 12:50
Thanks Andy..... I think lol
But no it's a lie, it's Andy who will be buying the breakfast stick ;)
Andy's buying all the breakfast sticks :laugh: Good luck Olski!
TNT ANDY
20-03-2013, 13:26
Good luck on Friday Olli, and enjoy handy's stick.
If you're still around at 12ish I'll stop off and you can buy me a breakfast stick for my lunch :laugh:
I believe at 12 we are scheduled to be pulling bits of piston and conrod out of the dyno booth roof lol
Andy's buying all the breakfast sticks :laugh: Good luck Olski!
I know, interesting since he suddenly has a mortgage and can't afford anything lol
Good luck on Friday Olli, and enjoy handy's stick.
Andy you seemed quite obsessed with HAndy's stick, you thought about seeing a quack?
If you're still around at 12ish I'll stop off and you can buy me a breakfast stick for my lunch :laugh:
trust me, we will be still there, moping the oil up from the first power run i would imagine:laugh::laugh:
Andy you seemed quite obsessed with HAndy's stick, you thought about seeing a quack?
are trying to say Andy ****s ducks;)
trust me, we will be still there, moping the oil up from the first power run i would imagine:laugh::laugh:
More than likely lol
are trying to say Andy ****s ducks;)
No not at all lol
TNT ANDY
21-03-2013, 20:46
WTF are you lot going on about?
Oli - bring the HP home tomorrow fella - hope it goes well, Sorry not to be there, I've burned my extra days already this year.
:agree::agree::agree:
Mr Raider
21-03-2013, 22:03
Good luck for tomorrow Oli, reckon first East Coast Massive meet up of the year is on the cards soon... ;)
TNT Tricky Nicky
21-03-2013, 22:07
I think it might be something in the water andy, they're all a bit weird over that way :laugh:
I'm working in kings Lynn tomorrow so won't be able to stop in now, bit gutted as I wanted to have a nosey round the toaster as still not seen it converted yet :(
Try not to blow it up, you've got another engine to pay for ;)
Mr Raider
21-03-2013, 22:13
Hmmm... engine for project 'old codger'...?! C1J :cooter:
Hmmm... engine for project 'old codger'...?! C1J :cooter:
Nope going in my bro's spitfire
I think it might be something in the water andy, they're all a bit weird over that way :laugh:
I'm working in kings Lynn tomorrow so won't be able to stop in now, bit gutted as I wanted to have a nosey round the toaster as still not seen it converted yet :(
Try not to blow it up, you've got another engine to pay for ;)
It is nnnnaaaaawwwwwwfolk after all lol
All in good time fella, if she gets through mapping ok ill take you out for a blast in it
what a day!!
i will leave oli to post up results, but it now seems gearboxes are his next purchase/upgrade:(:) dont think it will happen ready for national day, but you never know;):scared:
TNT ANDY
22-03-2013, 19:58
what a day!!
i will leave oli to post up results, but it now seems gearboxes are his next purchase/upgrade:(:) dont think it will happen ready for national day, but you never know;):scared:
:(
Really gutted he didn't get what he wanted, I've been there so many times now it's soul destroying and brings you to the brink. Still, with the power he did get - it must've felt uber quick. I've been blatting around in mine @ about 160bhp which feels mental.
:(
Really gutted he didn't get what he wanted, I've been there so many times now it's soul destroying and brings you to the brink. Still, with the power he did get - it must've felt uber quick. I've been blatting around in mine @ about 160bhp which feels mental.
dont think he got time to enjoy it before it stripped third gear by the sounds of it:(
we all knew it was the weak link ,but expected it to hold out longer than than a mapping session and a drive home less than 30 minutes away, on a plus note he has seen both mine and jp's 02m conversions go together, so at least he has a head start and will find things quicker to source:)
So come on don't keep us waiting then what power did it make did it make the 300 you was hoping for or did it make a lot more :)
The day started ok, left my place at 8am, it's a 30 minute drive to emerald, I needed to be there by 9, I wanted to be there early. Within 10 minutes of leaving home I'm sopped at a garage with a failed TPS sensor, whilst waiting for a tow I decided to check the fuel filter wasn't blocked, almost wish I hadn't as I found yet another bodged job by the guy I trusted to do the original efi conversion.
Fuel filter the wrong way round and held in place with a tie wrap, fuel hose to tank looked like carb hose not injection hose and the pump itself looks smaller than the Bosch 044 it's supposed to be.
Not too much longer Mal turned up and towed me to emerald where young Jono and HAndy got the TPS changed aswell as fit the larger 560cc injectors, Jono started mapping at around 12 and straight the first numbers were good, 238bhp at 7psi, not too long after that 257bhp at 8psi, a couple more hours of part throttle mapping and is was time to start upping the boost.
And again we hit problems, at 10psi it misfired massively, we swapped out the plugs for some new ones HAndy gapped abit tighter and fitted a temp fuel pressure gauge to make sure the pump wasn't playing up, the plugs made the difference and we got 14psi where it made 284bhp and 281ft lb.
The fuel pressure did seem to move around a lot which concerns me abit so I'm gunna rip out the pump and filter and redo the system properly.
We would of turned the boost up further but the solenoid was maxed out :/ the actuator would take it but the solenoid wouldn't so we ended the day there.
Unfortunately on the way home it popped out of 3rd gear and wouldn't go back in, before hand it was going like a stabbed rat. I didn't a chance to give the gearbox a once over when I got home as the misses bundled me into the car for a weekend away for my birthday.
I can take 4 things from today.
1. My charge temp problems are gone, didn't see over 28 degrees all day.
2. The fuel system needs a complete over hall.
3. I'm pretty sure the stock megane cams arn't helping flow and are costing me power.
4. The cast exhaust manifold although restrictive and poorly flowed did its job ok and with time should still produce the power I want for this year.
bugger mate! it looks like it's just plain luck (or unluck) with these gearboxes. one drives with 300+ lb/ft without breaking it and others break it within a few miles with less than that.
i hope you fix it soon and finaly have the chance of enjoying all your hard work!
TNT ANDY
23-03-2013, 09:10
Oli - FPR have you got on there?
Oli - FPR have you got on there?
fse/sytec motorsport variant with the red(pink)anodised top, and adjustable pressue knob type on top also for easy adjustment:)
TNT ANDY
23-03-2013, 13:44
fse/sytec motorsport variant with the red(pink)anodised top, and adjustable pressue knob type on top also for easy adjustment:)
Genuine or Ebay?
Genuine unlike the fuel pump by the looks of it :(
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/C03CA2E0-0C3B-4E24-B9D2-362B4BC7DD36-23684-00001A3848AB6BCD.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/0EFC0360-B68B-4573-A407-2DE7C8509F00-23684-00001A384EA61AFC.jpg
would still look into trying to get a smoother curve on the boost, maybe doubling up on the solinoid valves as the cheaper option, as your system is already linked into the ecu:)
would still look into trying to get a smoother curve on the boost, maybe doubling up on the solinoid valves as the cheaper option, as your system is already linked into the ecu:)
I'm thinking ill get the same boost controller as you HAndy and see how I get on with it
Just took her out to see if I can figure out what's wrong with the gearbox and it worked perfectly :scratch:
So I gave it a boot full at 14psi :burnrubber:
jesus in the seat of a 5
24-03-2013, 18:54
Just took her out to see if I can figure out what's wrong with the gearbox and it worked perfectly :scratch:
So I gave it a boot full at 14psi :burnrubber:
:laugh:, good man oli.... rebuild next....:D, well done guys, love the antics, well done andy on all your help.... good going so far.
markey b
24-03-2013, 19:23
Well done Ipswich! Is the blower fairly laggy, looks like u gotta use the revs to get it going but when it's spinning looks like it does a top job :-)
Well done Ipswich! Is the blower fairly laggy, looks like u gotta use the revs to get it going but when it's spinning looks like it does a top job :-)
Not as bad as you'd think, knock it down a cog and your off :)
Makes plenty of power on low boost but its deffinatly being choked top end when the boost is turned up, the manifold doesn't help but the cams are the first thing to change as I'm sure the engine will flow much better with better cams
Not as bad as you'd think, knock it down a cog and your off :)
Makes plenty of power on low boost but its deffinatly being choked top end when the boost is turned up, the manifold doesn't help but the cams are the first thing to change as I'm sure the engine will flow much better with better cams
;) you know,
your charge temps were good also, heading in the right direction:)
Well I've done nothing to the 5 except drive it, till tonight....... Boom the diff went a mile from home :(
JP Racing
05-05-2013, 08:02
:( that's not good mate I've got a spare box if needed :)
TNT ANDY
05-05-2013, 08:13
Well I've done nothing to the 5 except drive it, till tonight....... Boom the diff went a mile from home :(
You knew it was on the cards fella. If you want, I can come round and throw some gravel in it for ya.
Joking aside, it might a chance for you to take a look and see if that gearbox can be made stronger. I feel your pain.
You knew it was on the cards fella. If you want, I can come round and throw some gravel in it for ya.
Joking aside, it might a chance for you to take a look and see if that gearbox can be made stronger. I feel your pain.
It'd probably work lol
It's the diff that seems to be the week point, more specifically the crown wheel comes loose from the diff itself.
I'm in the process of stripping it down now, just the driveshafts, down pipe and gear linkage and she'll be ready to come out.
Been thinking about it more, it's either the diff crown wheel or I've stripped the splines off the centre of the clutch friction plate :/
If its the diff ill chuck a Gtt box in for now, if its the clutch ill have to wait a couple of weeks for funds :(
Got most of the car stripped down by lunch time, just gotta pull the engine and box out as soon as Butterbean finishes with my engine hoist but I was able to find what failed
Bearing in mind the circlip had been welded to stop it popping out :/
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/null-1.jpg
So while everything was out and the car up in the air I got the wishbones braced al la turbo ted stylee
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/null-2.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/null.jpg
The plates are bolted for now but when I'm getting Mal to do the tracking and camber setup and ill get him to mig along the edges of the plates to strengthen them further
i used a plate which comes on newer Renault jc5 gearboxes to reinforce the diff:
http://i1230.photobucket.com/albums/ee490/tutuur/renault%209%20F7R/IMG_3885_zps9aa69964.jpg
http://i1230.photobucket.com/albums/ee490/tutuur/renault%209%20F7R/IMG_3938_zpsb448e667.jpg
http://i1230.photobucket.com/albums/ee490/tutuur/renault%209%20F7R/IMG_3949.jpg
made the holes a bit bigger so i could fit 12.9 m8 allen key bolts
i used a plate which comes on newer Renault jc5 gearboxes to reinforce the diff:
http://i1230.photobucket.com/albums/ee490/tutuur/renault%209%20F7R/IMG_3885_zps9aa69964.jpg
http://i1230.photobucket.com/albums/ee490/tutuur/renault%209%20F7R/IMG_3938_zpsb448e667.jpg
http://i1230.photobucket.com/albums/ee490/tutuur/renault%209%20F7R/IMG_3949.jpg
made the holes a bit bigger so i could fit 12.9 m8 allen key bolts
Now that's interesting, any idea of a part number for that plate fella?
sorry mate, i don't.
i got it off someone who wasn't going to use it himself. however iirc it came on al newer jc5 gearboxes so if you could find someone who has dialogys he could find out.
or just visit a nearby Renault dealership and ask them if they could have a peek.
as you can see in the pictures i had to file the outer edge because the radius of the plate fouled that edge.
good luck mate!
TNT ANDY
06-05-2013, 09:44
This could be the cheaper option for those happy with say 300 - 350 bhp, what about putting an LSD in there Oli. I know it's £££, but if this is the part needed, it will be a lot less than the OM2 route plus a huge performance enhancing upgrade.
Cheers fella, ill pay the local stealership a visit this week.
This could be the cheaper option for those happy with say 300 - 350 bhp, what about putting an LSD in there Oli. I know it's £££, but if this is the part needed, it will be a lot less than the OM2 route plus a huge performance enhancing upgrade.
I thought about a LSD in a jc5 but it'll cost around 1200 and there's every chance of mashing the gear set still :/ for the extra 800 I can have a solid unbreakable O2M with a 6 gear :)
Pulled my spare Gtt boxes out the shed to make a choice of which I was gunna use, I was going to use the last Gtt box I had in the car but this is what I found when I went to inspect 5th gear
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/null-3.jpg
:eek:
how about this
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Gearbox-renfort-Renault-Clio-RS-172-182-JC5-Trophy-etc-/140732801641?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item20c4542269
ive got the same thing in the shed complete with drill and tap for the thread;)
was going to use it on the jc5 at a later date, but then jumped in and did the 02m:D
Mr Raider
06-05-2013, 22:12
Not good buddy, must of been giving it some beans!!! hope you get it sorted soon, thank goodness for 'project old codger' ;)
Woznaldo
07-05-2013, 11:47
That, my dear friend, is a very good effort indeed! :cooter:
TNT ANDY
07-05-2013, 13:29
That, my dear friend, is a very good effort indeed! :cooter:
:laugh:
Not good buddy, must of been giving it some beans!!! hope you get it sorted soon, thank goodness for 'project old codger' ;)
The original failure of that box was caused while beating an Audi TTrs so it died doing a good job :)
That, my dear friend, is a very good effort indeed! :cooter:
I do try :D
Haven't updated this in ages so here we go.
First off as HAndy pointed out in general chat, I had a bit of an engine fire when the oil pressure gauge line ruptured and sprayed oil over a hot turbo :/
Since my fire extinguisher failed I've now bought 2 just incase, I can't recommend the same enough.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/9C9A0A07-53F1-4F94-B698-3455C10E5946-2798-000002C8164DFBE8.jpg
Apart fire the pressure line, all the heat wrap was shot, the oil return was nearly burnt through and the starter wiring I'd just fixed was cooked.
The oil return was replaced with some new -8 fittings, much more secure :)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/FE1F1146-424D-4A79-A09E-5100CADAE63E-13104-00001133AC0F6796.jpg
After no end of trouble with a dodge idle valve I've decided to go back to a proper idle screw and bought a shiny new throttle body, gunna have to paint it, can't have that much chrome.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/99D4A373-258F-489B-89A1-C5D250E408F0-13104-000011339E20A375.jpg
Although not all has gone to plan, I took a trip up to my dads place in Leicester I took the 5 and she did the run just fine, right up till I was about 5 miles from home when she started to missfire badly. I got it home and a comp test revealed cylinders 1 & 2 had no compression :(
At first I found 11 of the 16 lifters were seized, thanks to JP and I had 16 good ones in but no change :( right head off time.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/BC9763F4-2D9E-462F-A753-A0060FEEA5D4-13104-0000113388C020F4.jpg
wow :eek: any det marks down the side of the piston:(
suggest that you run a thinner oil also maybe 5/40 fully no need for anything more really, my oil temps don't/didnt get anywhere near 120 degrees since the change of pipe work, which a good fully 5/40 should cope with;)
Nope no det marks, pistons, head and block are all mint. There's just burn residue where the gasket failed, no idea what caused it yet, wasn't lean, boost was set low, plenty of oil and pressure, I can only think the gasket never sealed properly from day 1 and it was only a matter of time :(
Anyone know where I can get an MLS gasket quickly? everywhere I've looked delivery would be after national day and the head bolts don't seem to be in the club shop anymore either :(
what did you torque the head bolts down too? if around 100nm then re use , you wont have stretched them ;)
pec or the bay in france etc
maybe?
the stanley has chopped around the scuttle area and fitted a bigger ar turbine housing, and gone to external wastegate and uprated cams, now after 300+ bhp
he should get it with ease:cool:
will let him post up the details,when he is not so busy;)
the stanley has chopped around the scuttle area and fitted a bigger ar turbine housing, and gone to external wastegate and uprated cams, now after 300+ bhp
he should get it with ease:cool:
will let him post up the details,when he is not so busy;)
HAndy you don't half know how to ruin a surprise ya ppprrriiiccckkk
opps!!!!!! was that suppose to be one of those secret squirrel type things?
sorry:ashamed:
does this mean i can have your old cams to measure then;) dont forget to check your buckets;) what degrees are you timing the new cams in at, the standard marks will be miles of for those grinds:( between 106-112) they are both equal lift /duration dont forget;)
Much has been happening of late but I've been quite busy with various things so this update might be abit long, bare with me.
First off had a little tyre trouble last year
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c255/oli_84/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsa8b67f46.jpg (http://s29.photobucket.com/user/oli_84/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsa8b67f46.jpg.html)
My strut brace sits right underneath the vent in my bonnet so I need something different, nothing on the market I like so time to make my own. Not complete yet but it's a start.
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c255/oli_84/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zps235c9e34.jpg (http://s29.photobucket.com/user/oli_84/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zps235c9e34.jpg.html)
Needed to sort the steering wheel out, I'd fitted a 320mm sparco job years ago but more and more of late it had been annoying me that I couldn't get my legs under it properly and because I'm a tall chap my seat has to go all the way back but the wheel sits too far away, so I bought this 350mm wheel with a 3" dish, job done :)
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c255/oli_84/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpse6aba769.jpg (http://s29.photobucket.com/user/oli_84/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpse6aba769.jpg.html)
Next up turbo upgrades, still my gt3071r but now with a .72 rear housing with external wastegate take off
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c255/oli_84/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zps613116d7.jpg (http://s29.photobucket.com/user/oli_84/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zps613116d7.jpg.html)
Was getting fed up with struggling to work down the back of the engine so I kinda slipped with the grinder
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c255/oli_84/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zps4e8405e4.jpg (http://s29.photobucket.com/user/oli_84/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zps4e8405e4.jpg.html)
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c255/oli_84/B5E0D38D-3806-4770-84CB-CE06AB369C5F_zps6gz54bnf.jpg (http://s29.photobucket.com/user/oli_84/media/B5E0D38D-3806-4770-84CB-CE06AB369C5F_zps6gz54bnf.jpg.html)
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c255/oli_84/D2CF50D5-EE09-4A2A-9C16-96371323C457_zpstnka0sci.jpg (http://s29.photobucket.com/user/oli_84/media/D2CF50D5-EE09-4A2A-9C16-96371323C457_zpstnka0sci.jpg.html)
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c255/oli_84/35328720-FE73-4827-A9CE-F6659B90557B_zpsnuzdqowh.jpg (http://s29.photobucket.com/user/oli_84/media/35328720-FE73-4827-A9CE-F6659B90557B_zpsnuzdqowh.jpg.html)
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c255/oli_84/D33A874D-9B01-4D5B-B2AA-6603B886AB40_zpsprerof3q.jpg (http://s29.photobucket.com/user/oli_84/media/D33A874D-9B01-4D5B-B2AA-6603B886AB40_zpsprerof3q.jpg.html)
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c255/oli_84/D673E406-0710-4FBD-BA51-455CFD47254A_zpsb1hhlqwv.jpg (http://s29.photobucket.com/user/oli_84/media/D673E406-0710-4FBD-BA51-455CFD47254A_zpsb1hhlqwv.jpg.html)
As you can see from my pics I've rerouted as much as I can to tidy up the bay, the fuel lines pass behind the master cylinder along with the oil pressure line and wide band wiring.
The brake fluid reservoir has been moved up into the scuttle area.
All the ecu wiring, speedo wiring and starter wiring now drops down behind the charge cooler and comes over the top of the gearbox.
The map sensor is in the scuttle area the vacuum line for it passes through the reworked scuttle panel.
The boost control solenoid is in the scuttle area too and like the map sensors vacuum hose, the solenoid hose's pass through the scuttle.
I no longer run the idle control valve but haven't had a chance to blank it off or get the boost pipe where it T's from welded up yet.
Along with the bigger rear housing on the turbo and the external wastegate I've added a pair of piper turbo cams and vernier pulleys. Hopefully should help the engine breath better.
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c255/oli_84/73F1E072-7BF5-47E4-9080-4C3B67C79354_zpszlokk24v.jpg (http://s29.photobucket.com/user/oli_84/media/73F1E072-7BF5-47E4-9080-4C3B67C79354_zpszlokk24v.jpg.html)
As you can see here I have a problem, in that I have no idea where to route the screamer pipe :/
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c255/oli_84/FE6D3AB7-04BB-4322-97CA-047F9800A399_zpsre7yqlrr.jpg (http://s29.photobucket.com/user/oli_84/media/FE6D3AB7-04BB-4322-97CA-047F9800A399_zpsre7yqlrr.jpg.html)
With a mapping session booked in I had to improvise and fit a temporary screamer pipe that stuck out over the wing while the car was on the dyno, not great but it did the job and a few hours later I had some results and some new problems unfortunately :(
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c255/oli_84/0A42344D-1B5F-49E5-8D7F-DD73ACBD7D55_zpssygoeqkh.jpg (http://s29.photobucket.com/user/oli_84/media/0A42344D-1B5F-49E5-8D7F-DD73ACBD7D55_zpssygoeqkh.jpg.html)
That's 296bhp 22ft lb at 12psi
318bhp 292ft lb at 16psi
The main problems I had during mapping was the v-band to 2 bolt adaptor for the wastegate, no matter how tight I did the v-clamp upto it didn't grip the adaptor properly, you could physically turn the wastegate through 360degrees with one hand if the scuttle wasn't there, some I'm going to flog the 38mm gate and buy a 44mm v-band gate toe do away with the adaptor and hopefully solve that problem.
The second problem, also with the wastegate, it had a 7psi spring fitted yet it wouldn't run any less than 12psi, I'm hoping the step up to a 44mm gate will help with that as the 12psi low boost setting is vicious and scary to drive (I've not even tried 16psi yet).
The gearbox I was using for this session was a standard GTT box, I know it won't last forever but even so after the dyno the input shaft bearing now sounds like a bottom end knock and 5th gear requires 2 hands to select.
I have a 172 JC5 box which I'm going to have beefed up and modded to run the GTT speedo sensor, hopefully that'll hold up.
JP Racing
26-03-2014, 23:22
Nice update olly with some good figures for low boost. Now all you need is to get a bigger turbo and wind the boost up ;) scuttle is looking good too :D
im happy for you mr stanley, youve got the 300+ bhp you where after:cool:
now start saving for the 02m and rollcage:laugh:
i will start the guestimation of the jc5 lasting mmmmmm...... 8 months before it breaks,
on a more serious note, pm turbo ted about the jc5 box before you start spending £££, you maybe surprised ;)
Mr Raider
27-03-2014, 12:26
Good work Oli, - you've been a busy chap with this beast! :) :agree:
Cheers fella's a few more tweaks and she'll be ready for some Tarmac abuse :)
Nad-5GTT
27-03-2014, 18:16
Some good work going on there :) I do admire you lot that are chasing huge power figures with your engine conversions, but with all the problems that come with it ie breaking boxes etc it has put me off doing an engine conversion. It's too much for my ickle brain to get round :laugh: keep the updates coming :agree:
I always try to have a target with a build, target 1 was 300bhp, that's double what the engine put out factory and target 2 was 345bhp, that's 3 time what my car put out when it was factory.
I've achieved target 1 and I'll be honest target 2 will only be a nicety and I'm in no rush to get there.
As for gearbox breakages, 1 of the reason I want to bring the lower boost setting down from 12psi to 7psi is to limit the power if use on a day to day basis, let's face it, you can't drive everywhere at full throttle on high boost and a lower setting will make it nicer to drive when your not in a hurry.
With any luck that'll give a JC5 box a fighting chance of lasting more than just a week lol
Had a stroke of luck and managed to get a tial MV-R 44mm v-band water cooled wastegate reasonably cheap and it turned up today.
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c255/oli_84/D5194E5A-7BF6-43E3-9132-CEE158D31EC0_zpscrn14syj.jpg (http://s29.photobucket.com/user/oli_84/media/D5194E5A-7BF6-43E3-9132-CEE158D31EC0_zpscrn14syj.jpg.html)
Got that beauty fitted with the 7psi spring and fitted to the car and ready for testing :)
Keep us updated mate!
Will do fella, how goes your 9?
It's okay, still goes well but lot's of stuff is still not completely at wish.
Kinda demotivating a lot of the times i'm thinking to improve something there's always another issue coming up....
It's okay, still goes well but lot's of stuff is still not completely at wish.
Kinda demotivating a lot of the times i'm thinking to improve something there's always another issue coming up....
I know that feeling :/
No matter how's my jobs I get done something else is waiting around the corner ready to bite :/
Feels a bit dissapointing sometimes....
All that hard work, fabrication and money into but there's always something to complain about.
And no it's not me, i'm sure other people will find it a pig to drive, i just know how to handle it
the 44mm wastegate will help with the min boost, i would also look at the seimens boost soliniods, ie increase the wastegate reation time, so it opens more slowly, that will help with traction issues and possible spiking also;) if possible? or buy a boost controller that can adjust:)
This thread back on Page 3!!!! Bloody hell I've been away too long.
sorry I've been away for so long chaps, been having some personal issues and loss of faith in cars :/ but now I'm back and the 5 is back too, last year around July I bought a 3 series bmw and tucked the 5 away for a winter hibernation and improvement but she didn't get a look in for months, that was until a mate took me out in his freshly turbo Clio 172 and the boost bug bit hard again.
ive replaced the ****ed drives side driveshaft and fitted a new speedo sensor/wiring.
the fibreglass valver bonnet was proving more hassle then it was worth on mine because of high speeds so I've had an all steel item fabricated, much nicer fit, no distortions and it doesn't move around at high speed (pics to follow soon). As such the fibreglass item is for sale, I can bring it to frog of the pod/retro show if someone wants it £250.
my new redesigned front bumper is being paint Tuesday so hopefully will that back by the weekend so I can get the bigger oil cooler on and look at finishing the splitter.
After being given the run around because of the piss poor quality replica ph1 grill I bought (still not got my money back) and buying 2 supposedly good condition ph1 grills that turned out to be complete garbage. I've finally found a resonably good condition item, a few minor tweaks to clear boost pipes and a minor repair it'll go for paint along with bonnet soon, hopefully in time for frog of the pod/retro show :) .
Welcome back! Hope to see the progress pics. :cool:
Who supplied the replica grilles? Good to know which ones to avoid. :agree:
Welcome back! Hope to see the progress pics. :cool:
Who supplied the replica grilles? Good to know which ones to avoid. :agree:
It's been well documented on the Facebook page about the sh*t quality of the replica grills, mainly because although u buy them from different companies but they all seem to come from the same source and same piss poor moulds :/
Matt Cole
06-06-2016, 20:26
Good to see you back Oli. :agree:
http://www.rtoc.org/boards/attachment.php?attachmentid=30479&d=1465240944 the new all steel bonnet
http://www.rtoc.org/boards/attachment.php?attachmentid=30481&d=1465241277 new bucket seats and 4 point harness
The pics of the poor fitment with these replica grills
http://www.rtoc.org/boards/attachment.php?attachmentid=30482&d=1465241277
http://www.rtoc.org/boards/attachment.php?attachmentid=30477&d=1465240944
Mr Raider
06-06-2016, 22:54
Good stuff fella, new buckets look great, looking forward to seeing it at Pod :agree: :).
Looking good, hope to catch up with yourself and the car at Retro day :-)
It's been well documented on the Facebook page about the sh*t quality of the replica grills, mainly because although u buy them from different companies but they all seem to come from the same source and same piss poor moulds :/
Ah right. Not on FB. I was just wondering if they were the same as those advertised on here a while ago, i.e. these: http://www.rtoc.org/boards/showthread.php?40093-Phase-1-Grilles-Carbon-Fibre-and-FRP
They still appear to be available through EvoBits at £100.
Ah right. Not on FB. I was just wondering if they were the same as those advertised on here a while ago, i.e. these: http://www.rtoc.org/boards/showthread.php?40093-Phase-1-Grilles-Carbon-Fibre-and-FRP
They still appear to be available through EvoBits at £100.
Yep there the dodgy ones, they like the rest seem to all come from the same manufacture in China, the excuse I was given when I complained about the quality is that they were the first test batch and they would send out a replacement as the next batch came in, did they? Did they fu*k!
the next contact they offered a refund, against did I get it? Did I fu*k!
:sad2::dearme: Very bad form.
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