well guess what I have ****ed it again LOL
I seem to have melted one of the pulleys ????
Thankfully it is all timed up slipt the tools back on and all good need to get another pulley from Renault.
I'll get a pic up in a mo
well guess what I have ****ed it again LOL
I seem to have melted one of the pulleys ????
Thankfully it is all timed up slipt the tools back on and all good need to get another pulley from Renault.
I'll get a pic up in a mo
Here's a pic of the pulley
It's a little strange as the belt tightness is controlld by the tensioner pully which all markings are aligned as supposed.
Ashy, Scoff, Andrew please help
New Pulley according to my Diaologys - 77 00 108 626 PULLEY LA 42.76
The cam kit I used was new with new pulleys
Last edited by James5; 28-04-2009 at 22:03.
I'm pretty sure there is a spacer that goes between the pulley and the cyl head, do you have that installed ? Without that it will lock solid against the head when tightened up.
looks to me as though you've put the pulley on the wrong way around mate. There is a spacer as Scoff says which sits into the bearing and holds the pulley away from the block. I think the pulley is offset (i.e. the bearing isn't central) so if it was fitted the wrong way around the pulley would touch the block and not spin.
I'll go have a look in the garage if i've got one!
I think ashy's on the money james, I usually slip that pulley off to remove the cambelt quickly and I remember I was carefull to keep the pulley and spacer in the right order. Looking at that picture shows the belt has cut through over to one side, it should have been running closer to the middle.
The bit that is sticking out in the pic is the spacer, but now you say that I may have put it on the wrong way I am now thinking **** did I put it on the wrong way but looking at in my hand it looks the same on both sides aparft from the spacer being on one side
This is it just before then I heard a funny noise and stopped the car immediatly
Originally Posted by Scoff
Have you guys got a closeup picture of your pulleys so i can see which way it should go on for next time
Last edited by James5; 29-04-2009 at 13:36. Reason: typo
Just been ot and had a look at an old 182 lump... You're right the pulley does fit either way round, and it looks in your picture like you've fitted the spacer so I'm not sure whats happened?
Heres a pic of the pulley and spacer
Heres a couple of shots of the pulleys in position...
You'll know when its on the right way because it'll spin
have you used the wrong spacer or something? In your photo it doesnt look like it protrudes past the pulley?
Looking at the pulley and spacer on a flat service and the spacer gives about 2-3mm clearance from a flat service to the pulley wheel itself, I am going to assume that I have fitted it inorrectly looking at the way the belt has destroyed the pulley
Last edited by James5; 28-04-2009 at 22:38.
is the belt wrecked then?
No the belt looks good it has rubbed some of the lettering of the top but that is it
heres that pic you sent me
Yeah thats how my engine looked when the Renault tools where in place and with pulleys and the belt attached, I am now thinking did the pulley spin? I don't remember it spinning freely!!!
I would say you had the spacer on the wrong side and jammed the roller against the head, I've done a few and got the spacer on the wrong side...
I'd be tempted to replace the belt aswell mate, might be damaged and just wear out quicker, £35 belt is cheaper than a head over haul with 16 new valves...
Can't beleave your luck dude, you thought u ****ed the timing but then it ran, now you have killed a roller and still NOT bent any valves... One lucky man.... good on you thou for seeing the funny side of it, better to be like that than stressing out as the problem get's greater lol ....
So what the plan of action now mate - any idea why it blew that fuse, possibly a short some where.. ?
Rob
Well many thanks to Ashy for the spare Cam pulley I have replaced the belt with yet another new one to be on the safe side. And I timed the car up again this time double checking then triple checking the pulleys and all seems good I have taken it for a quick drive around the block and all is good apart from my idle which seems a little high @ 2k if I adjust it 1 notch on the accelerator cable it goes to under 1k but stalls. I will have a play around and see what i can do but good news is that is bloody works.
Wahoo!! congrats mate.. I can't wait till I can say the same
Looking at your thread matey you are almost there.Wahoo!! congrats mate.. I can't wait till I can say the same
The one thing I to like with my conversion is the keeping of the original clocks. I still need to wire up the coolant temp though
Yeah, I was wondering about that as I need to send the coolant temp to the ECU so what do I use to feed the gauge on my dash? ..short of fixing my laptop on the dash
Last edited by c7borg; 05-05-2009 at 16:47. Reason: typos typos typos...
I am just going to use the orginal gtt temp wires and splice into the 172 loom that provides the temp feed to the ecu somewhere. Probably easier to wire up and than standalone.
so when you comming up then you homo sexual straight man (best of both)
so when you comming up then you homo sexual straight man (best of both
you big gay polar bear
I am going to run the car locally tomoz to make sure all is good then i will make the journey to yours on thursday eve I fancy taking the back roads to yours aswell to get a feel for the old 5 aswell
Last edited by James5; 05-05-2009 at 17:43.
Thursday eve, ile put the waffle iron on, the coffee maker, and have plenty or party rings and bourbons
Thursday eve, ile put the waffle iron on, the coffee maker, and have plenty or party rings and bourbons
Sounds good I'll aim to get to you for 7ish if i am late give me a bell I would have prob broken down somewhere
Last edited by James5; 05-05-2009 at 18:23.
Good work james, Glad you replaced the belt aswell just to be on the safe side...
So is it quick then or did ya just poodle round the block ?
It was only a poddle
Never the less it moved on its own steam.. Good work mateyIt was only a poddle
you wont be able to splice the Gt clocks into the 172 temp sensor mate. Best bet is to fit the Gt sender into the thermostat housing!
Glad its all running, you can adjust the idle on the throttle body mate, there is a grub screw in in behind the pulley on the TB. Using the cable to adjust the idle is the wrong way to do it.
Ashy.. does this mean I would need to run a separate sender if I want to see the temp on my clocks as well as feed my ecu (aftermarket)?
I'd better get another gtt water temp sender then.
Yeah I know about the grub screw but mine has been messed about with in the past and is mullered I am going to have to drill it out and use another bolt in it. In fact I have got the tb in my hand right now and am having a look at it whilst the mrs's is watching love actually.
the 172 temp sender for the dash is a 3 wire sender, Scoff will tell you what the 3 wires do. But your ECU will probably need a Bosch 2 pin type sender (which is what I use) they are the same thread so you can just swap them over!
If you want to retain the GT gauge then the best bet would be to weld a boss in the back of the thermostat and run the GT sender.
TB now sorted and can now adjust tb cam
One does temp gauge
One does temp warning light
Other is engine management
I split the clio wiring up and just nabbed the gauge wire and ran it right to my volvo lump, like you said you cant really use that sensor on your old clocks, u should be able to drill a small hole in the thermostat and put a tap down it and just screw in a r5 sensor single wire jobbie...
How weird my ph2 engine had a two wire plug and it works.. well should I say the ecu reads the temp - I'll double check though
Are you sure, ones normaly a sensor ground and ones +5v not sure about 3rd!
The 3 wires are
Coolant temp warning light number 9 pin on ecu,
Coolant temp sensor input number 13 pin on ecu,
Coolant temp sensor earth number 73 pin on ecu
I also need to get an engine speed signal to pins 24 & 54 on the ecu all I need to work out is which wire on the gtt speed cable I can take the signal from
Ahh that'll explain why I only needed 13 & 73.. I haven't got a coolant warning light
why do you need speed? I thought the gtt speed cable was for road speed from the gearbox like MPH? don't you need engine speed (rpm) from the TDC?
Yeah which is what I have got but the cliosport boys say I need to take a speed signal from my speedo aswell unless they are pulling my leg
Also the OE 172 rad fan should this be on constantly or just come on when up to temp, not that I know what the temp is yet as I have no temp gauge
Also an update pic of car legally on the road
Last edited by James5; 06-05-2009 at 16:45.
Looks sweet as mate wish I had brought it when I had the chance
Coolant temperature sensor for 172:-
Three-way sensor, two tracks for the coolant
temperature information and 1 track
for the indication on the instrument panel.
This system is fitted with a single coolant temperature
sensor which is used by the injection, the fan
assembly and the temperature warning light on
the instrument panel.
Operation
Sensor 244 enables:
- the coolant temperature to be indicated on the
instrument panel,
- the injection computer to be informed of the
engine coolant temperature.
Depending on the coolant temperature, the injection
computer controls:
- the injection system,
- the fan assembly relays:
• the fan assembly is controlled at low speed if
the coolant temperature exceeds 100 °C and
stops when the temperature falls below
96 °C,
• the fan assembly is controlled at high speed
if the coolant temperature exceeds 102 °C
and stops when the temperature falls below
100 °C,
• the fan assembly may be controlled at low
speed for the anti-percolation system and at
high or low speed for the AC.
- the coolant temperature warning light.
COOLANT TEMPERATURE WARNING LIGHT
The warning light is controlled by the injection
computer if the coolant temperature exceeds 118
°C and is switched off if the temperature falls below
115 °C.
just checked my "warning light" wire is blanked off (factory) it's a phase 2.. odd one eh!?!
I thought that was the case. I'll bet the warning light is a CAN message to the dash. I was wondering about adding the wire back into the loom.
Well taken the r5 out for a run tonight sounds very very loud had a couple of probs like the heat wrap on the fanimold is giving of alot of smoke. Also rad fan wasn't coming on so have bypassed it to come as an ignition live for now.
Do have a real concern though which is how tappy / ticky the engine is? Are these engines supposed to be ?
I might do another oil change as I changed the oil back in nov 08 and the filter.
Have to say though the engine feels pretty responsive and revved all the way through to 7k with ease
Last edited by James5; 06-05-2009 at 22:53.
tomorrows on then
o o whats happening tomorrowtomorrows on then
just coz im nosey lol
Heading up to jon's gaff to take a look at his new 5 and running my conversion in only concerns I have is the amount of smoke my heat wrap is giving off.
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