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Member
Re: First time GT Turbo owner
did you check for bonnet clearance.....there isnt much!
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Non-member
Re: First time GT Turbo owner
Will bring some plasticine home from work tomorrow and check the height with the bonnet closed on the forge lobster I have fitted by comparison to this. It will be ‘effin close, but looking at the two there didn’t seem to be much between them in total height! If needs be I’ll drop the insulating plate between the carb and manifold!
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Non-member
Re: First time GT Turbo owner
Hey up!
So its been a while since I last posted on here. Life got in the way of progress on the 5 somewhat last year, I got divorced and found myself in a position where I needed to prioritise my expenditure - not least to cover solicitors bills but also to remortgage the property. However, 2019 is so far looking more positive, everything is now pretty much resolved and amicable, and best of all I managed to keep hold of the 5!
It was good to meet so many of the members at Santa Pod last year, put some faces to the names/avatars on here and get advice and chat shit whilst getting more and more inebriated!
Many will have read my posts in this thread and noticed I was forever changing my mind on the spec of my engine build, going back and forth with different states of tune etc. I was toying with the idea originally of keeping both the carb and Renix unit but lightly upgrading the rest of the engine and T2 turbo, then I decided to go for electronic ignition, T25 turbo and but still staying with the carb.
However, I have now decided to go balls deep and fully commit to a serious engine build to produce serious power. The spec below is what I’m working to, but these are just the big ticket items that are key to this build. Most components under the bonnet will be rebuilt or replaced throughout the build and it is likely it will be another year from now before its completed due to funding etc. I’d like to think by Summer 2020 this is the engine will be in my 5.
Anyway, final specification of my build:
Original C1J block and cylinder head
77mm Wossner Pistons - New capacity 1.434cc
Westwood Ductile Liners 77mm bore
Raised compression ratio to 8:1
Garrett GT2256 Turbo
Custom manifold and down pipe to suit turbo
Fuel injection manifold courtesy of Michael Tierney
Adaptronic ECU
Piper 285 camshaft reprofile
AEM water methanol injection
PWR barrel water to air charge cooler kit
Feel free to pick holes, make suggestions, offer advice and troll as you so wish...
Oh and my GT22 turbo is being delivered tomorrow so will endeavour to post some photos of it uploaded asap!
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Committee, Moderator
Re: First time GT Turbo owner
Excellent this is! Really interested in the CC increase to see what difference it makes overall.
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Non-member
Re: First time GT Turbo owner
Unfortunately I don't think I'll ever know what the impact going 1mm larger in bore will have in terms of the overall performance because the rest of the engine spec will be radically different. However, even if its negligible any increase in capacity can only help towards power - like the old saying "theres no replacement for displacement!"
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Re: First time GT Turbo owner
As I decided I was going electronic injection quite some time ago, before I got to the specification I've finally settled on I decided to do away with the distributor, but need to keep the lower part of the housing to locate on the top of the oil pump drive. I'm not a big fan of gaskets when you can use an o-ring instead, so after some measuring of both the bore inside the block and comparing it to our stock of o-rings in stores I found one that was a perfect match, the shaft requires a groove yet but will then have a retaining snap ring fitted and an ally cover to seal the top.
Before:
Now:
(I should also add that the remaining shaft protruding from the dizzy still needs shortening down some more)
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Non-member
Re: First time GT Turbo owner
So, tonights update: The company I work for has close dealings with Australian cooling specialists PWR, who if you are unfamiliar with them, manufacture cores as well as finished radiators, intercoolers and charge coolers. The quality of their work is fantastic and the cores they make are among some of the very best in the world. Using our contacts we have with them I began directly discussing the options they have available and what my requirements and expectations are.
After these discussions I was steered towards one of their chargecoolers kits. They very kindly sent me over the heat rejection and pressure drop data along with a whole heap of other graphs, plots and tables from wind tunnel tests of the various size charge coolers at a range of ambient conditions, boost levels and inlet charge temps. Long story short, the numbers are impressive. Now I'm not going to bullshit you, I don't fully understand it all 100%, I have general grasp of the fundamentals but thats about it. Fortunately for me though our cooling engineer does this sort of analysis everyday and was happy to look into it and run the numbers for me. At this point its hard to put an exact figure on charge temps without running complex simulations, however he has reassured me that chargecooler over intercooler is a viable option and also potentially an improvement in certain conditions.
Heres the kit in question that I'm currently leaning towards:
You get the radiator, fan, water pump, small header tank and charge cooler barrel and some other fittings etc.
The main drawbacks for the charge cooler system are:
* The minimum inlet charge temp achievable is never going to be as low as an Air to Air intercooler
* Additional systems required (electric pump and fan, plumbing in a separate radiator) with increased chances of things to go wrong
* Weight is likely to be as much if not more than a large front mount I/C
Where a charge cooler benefits over an I/C:
* A much smaller volume of the C/C and shorter pipework runs reduces any possible issues with lag
* For an equivalent surface area as the C/C you'd need a much larger intercooler
* Although inlet charge temp will never be as cool as an I/C can achieve the peak temp will be much lower
* The thermal mass of water means that as a rule of thumb it conducts heat not only about 25 times more effectively but also 25 times faster than air (apparently)
* Also due to the heat capacity of water even if the charge temp goes up massively (for example after WOT) the water temp change is minimal (literally single digits)
* The above is also true for after being sat in traffic or stationary - heat soak into the C/C will be much less than an I/C
Basically from what I can understand you effectively have a much narrower operating window of inlet charge than you would with an intercooler. This I feel will be a benefit as the inlet charge temp I map the car at will not deviate anywhere near as wildly as it would with an I/C. Seeing as my car gets used for 6 months of year from end of Spring to early Autumn (even though our summers aren't reliably hot) I'm likely to spend more time driving my car in warmer conditions than cold.
Obviously all of the above benefits and improvements I'm championing are all dependant on spec'ing everything right first time - correct size core, correct size radiator, air flow to and after the radiator, pipework runs etc. I'm sure someone will be along soon to counter these with their own opinions and suggestions. Don't get me wrong I'm a fan of I/C's and know that they can be equally if not more effective than C/C's if certain conditions are met. Half the F1 grid either run one or the other showing that there isn't a hard and fast rule of which is best. PWR even suggested that they can provide me with seriously effective I/C cooler core but that it may not be suitable both in terms of packaging (size available to me) and also at price point - an average core supplied to an F1 team is in excess of 5 figures for one - thats just for the core - no tanks - no pipework, just a box with some core in for you to manufacture it yourself!
Anyway heres tonights job of mocking-up the installation of the charge cooler and radiator:
The cardboard tube is the same OD and length of the barrel I have been recommended to use by them, the donkey dick (ducting) is very close to the inlet and outlet diameter of the barrel. At least I know with a bit of relocation of a couple of items I can get the barrel I require inside the engine bay. The radiator is a struggle as I want to retain the standard water rad position.They suggest a 10x10" radiator but after using a cardboard box I'm going to ask if they can manufacture a 9x11" rad instead, that way I can use the standard I/C bottom mount.
More to follow...
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