Bugger.... engine stripped again!!!!! Is that a common fault or hate you just been horrendously unlucky?
Must be a common fault although my last turbo engine was fine it's the new one, but all the engine I have picked up trying to get a good block all have these crack's which cause the headbolts to lift hence pressure in the coolant :-( I have 5 f7p engines now so plenty of spare heads just blocks fecked unless anyone knows someone whom can fix them
I would get it cold welded and then use arp studs instead of bolts. Might be worth a go.
Cold welding be nice if the original block can be saved would save alot of agro, its trying to find somewhere down my neck of the woods that can do it.
I have been thinking about the arp stud conversion not cheap as I need to have special spacers made as I have to use and F4r kit from what I have seen of Robbie's setup.
Ouch that sucks wonder how much a bare block is from Renault 🤔
Ok so I have finally made some progress and not the route I was expecting to take, seeing as I keep picking up F7p block's that are not of a good enough quality I was offered an F7r meg engine I had to think about this as my pistons were oversized I was very confident they would fit the bore size so I thought why not. The f7r engine benefits from extra strengthening webbing on the rear of the block.
So I stripped the head of the F7r and the block had no cracks . I then got it home and started removing the sump only to find the block had a chain driven oil pump unlike the F7p engine :-( (Wasn't expecting that) at this point I thought oh crap this is a no go, I decided to have a little play and fit one of my pistons on the rod to the F7r crank and see how it would fit and go up and down ok to which it did but I had forgotten about the 7mm extra throw in the F7r crank :-(. I then grabbed a spare F7p crank ( i have a few of these now ) placed it in situ and fitted one of the meg f7r rods and doing this has dropped the f7r piston down in the bore 7mm perfect so looks like I can use the F7p crank in the F7r block. The next hurdle is the chain driven oil pump having looked at the F7p and F7r crank ends carefully and measured I was confident that the F7p crank can be lathered down to accept the meg f7r chain cog. So today i dropped the block and the cranks downs to the machine shop discussed with them and they were confident they could do what is required (Many thanks for Mick for coming down with me was good to catch up also and I would never have found the place).
So at the end of all this I will still be running a 1.8 just in a 2.0 block with a chain driven oil pump
Few pic's attached
no probs jim my guys will sort it, it will be one of a kind for sure a hybrid of both engines, and a club first i believe but what actually is it
r or p
james you helped me enough in the past, swings and roundabouts boss
just cant wait to see it running
remember glyco bearings micks recommendation lol
Flippin' brilliant James! Super cool Take plenty of pics
The cranks have been machined for this before. Scoff machined the 1.8 crank to fit in the first f4r turbo he built. This his setup was f4r block and head with Volvo/renault 1.8 crank. Drops the compression low depending on what pistons you use. May be slightly different dependant on the f7r head combustion chamber cc's.
Good luck with it James.
hes using all the f7p stuff except block and oil pump so it should be fine buddy
F7p and r head chambers are the same so no worries their, just different valves and port's etc... bore and compression is still the same
Picked the bit's up today am please with the work just awaiting the ACL Race bearing's to arrive and I will build up he bottom end :-)
Couple of pic's of the F7p crank modified for the chain oil pump, also had the crank polished aswell (Not that pic show's this) re-honed, and the top face just cleaned and made sure flat, also had the rear of block drilled and tapped for turbo oil rtn.
I do remember now Lewis as you say scoff doing something like this now to his old F4r setup me using the f7p crank in the f7r has just made this an F7p just with a chain oil pump and stronger block
Well decided to take the day off work and I actually spent some time doing the 5 engine which needs a few parts still to be fitted ready to drop in flywheel, clutch, gearbox starter and then I can drop it back in, prob less than full day work to have it back in and ready to start.
Liking them piper cams!
Had the afternoon off work so done a few thing's on the GTT. Fitted the new vibratechnics engine mounts (very very stiff). Also ditched the alloy header tank so I can see what's going on.
Still need to fit the down-pipe properly, and need to fix a coolant leak that I have found at front of block drivers side.
Couple of update pic's
Well managed to get out of work early today so pulled the meg lump out the 225 as the guy wanted it this eve so that's now gone. And I spend a bit more time on the 5 and found the small coolant leak was behind the front engine mount it was the pipe that goes into the block looks like it ha been slightly moved on the F7r meg lump this is only held in with a 13mm bolt so I pushed it back in hard added a little sealant to the seal and done the Nut up tight.
Just need to check it in next few days to make sure not leaking anymore and then it's engine mount and bracket back on and alternator. I also done the downpipe up aswell.
Your making good progress on the new engine build, but For a very brief moment there I thought you had sacked the f7p/r and were going down the f4rt route
It's alive and running and covered a massive 2 mile's.
Small video of me trying to setup the 2 step
https://youtu.be/pD-8kK8LfT4
226 miles now covered
Another 2 step video thought would see what like at night
https://youtu.be/MtOn5OmLC1k
Well done!!!!!
Sounds fantastic and looks 😎 any plans to get back on the rollers for mapping?
Cheer's Will be having mapping done once I have covered my 500 miles to make sure all good then will contact Scoff and get him to work his magic on it Imagine it will be mapped end September early Oct if all goes to plan, I want to change the exhaust manifold and downpipe before mapping though
Squeezing out every last pony......
Is there any decent manifolds available for the f7p? Or would it need to be a custom jobbie
No decent off the shelf manifolds It would have to be custom made. The log manifold can get to just under 400bhp but it's so restrictive and heat builds up quick due to it's shape and material. It's trying to find a decent stainless fabricator localish that can undertake the job as I would need to leave the car with them to sort.
Excellent James and awesome stuff!
Speak with Matty off here for the manifold:
https://www.rtoc.org/boards/member.php?5843-Matty
Got to give your self a pat on the back James, this has to be the longest you've owned a car!
Much repect and credit to you for sticking at it after reading all the latest dramas.
Wow evening stranger, hope you are well been a long time? Yeah the car has had some good and bad times fingers crossed we are now on the good run.
I managed to change the downpipe over today for a custom 3" Hayward & Scott one :-) just need to change the rest of the exhaust system to 3" now hopefully in October I can get the 3" exhaust sorted and the custom exhaust manifold sorted aswell :-)
Couple of pic's of the custom 3" Hayward & Scott D/P my weld repair on a large crack and grind to clean up
Well just done over 300 miles on running the engine in all going well so far, was getting frustrated with the lack of speedo and having to rely on the sat Nav, so thought I would have a look into the gtt speedo sensor.
I am using a clio 172 phase 1 gearbox with quaife diff, I have previously fitted clio 1.8 16v abs driveshaft and clio 1.8 16v abs hubs, the shafts are identical length to a gtt other than they have abs ring's on the end's and the hubs are the same other than bigger bearing's and abs mounting points. I knocked the passenger side abs ring off and fitted one of the OS8472 ring's he sell's and made a small spacer to allow the gtt speedo cable to fit snuggly in the clio abs sensor port. Couple of pic's attached of it almost complete.
Fingers crossed when I next use the GTT I will have a working speedo :-)
Forgot to add done another gearbox fluid change was running the wrong stuff was recommend this
I now have working Speedo :-)
That's a really interesting mod.. Opens up a few options for different gearboxes and ratios
What's it like with the quaife?
Still wheelspins alot lol The wheel speed sensor was easy to mount thanks to the OS8472 speedo ring.
A little annoyed at the mo my car was hit whilst parked by the local Tesco delivery man delivering food to my house :-( downside is no witness's but I heard him beeping as reversing up and down the side of my house for 15-20min's. :-( the bugger didn't say anything have made complaint to tesco awaiting the 72 hr investigation) am going to get some quotes to sort
Cracking mod for the speedo. Can't believe the damage.
Bugger!!!! :mad:...... I feel for you there. Im still hurting from when my 5 was damaged 3 years ago!
Hopefully their investigation gets the right outcome for you
As bad as it is, Atleast the damage looks just superficial and parts can be replaced.
Last edited by tubbyG; 11-09-2016 at 13:27.
Cheer's guy's. Speedo works perfect, also managed to get my MVSS working on the ecu aswell using the clio valver speedo cable in the back of my phase 1 172 gearbox (had to use the entire cable but only used the 3 wires at the other end (Black = GND, White = 12v+, yellow = Signal wire to ECU).
Had to calibrate the MVSS Speed sensor on the ecu manually but didn't take to long and I now have Launch control / 2step control, flatshift, boost by gear all setup by myself for now so I know it all works for Scoff.
Yeah the damage is very frustrating as I have a few event's to attend this month and was wanting a nice clean car :-( still awaiting the insurers to contact me on the damage rather annoying as would like it sorted asap.
Fitted a new -34 actuator that seems to hold 2bar of boost at 50% wastegate duty
Got mapping booked in with Scoff aswell now :-) So hopefully I can make what I want power wise now :-)
Not much to add, had a few coolant pressure issue's which would appear to now be sorted :-)
Took the car out last night for the first time in a while, yes I had some minor issue's, 1) coolant pipe had slid of the header tank (looked at header tank the swagged ends were just rubbish so it would have come of anyway),
2) Accelerator cable decided to feck up in side the metal sleeve (No spares on me so no choice but to call the RAC) luckily they had some metal inner cable removed old one and made new one up (I pretty much done the RAC man's job just with his tool's lol I was back up and running again.
Rather a chav video of my antic's last night (Mid life crisis I think).
https://youtu.be/sHt9Ug9eW3k
Love it james, love the conversion.
Not much of an update but I have fecked my GT2871r think a little to much antilag :-( basically the rear of the dual bearing core cage has failed and thus caused the compressor wheel to catch the compressor housing and damage the blades, engine is fine.
I have therefore taken the opportunity to get one of the new GEN2 GTX 2867r turbo's with the .86 rear that should be spool better than the GT2871r and it will allow for a better bhp aswell so once on I will be up to Scoff for some mapping although other than my antilag setup the map I done has been doing well @ 2bar.
Ill upload some pics of turbo damage
Some pics
New turbo has arrived and is now fitted, I am currently awaiting Scoff with a mapping date
Nice! should go really well that. Scoff is very busy I'm told 4 plus weeks wait for mapping
Crikey not updated this for a while, had some ups and downs. Engine had covered over 4000miles since my last update fault free so I booked it in with scoff, drove it to scoffs 5hr fault free, and 3hrs+ on the rollers and the inlet cam thrust bearing decided to disintegrate in the head whilst on the rollers, all was going well up to this point with some strong power figures.
I ended up coming back on an RAC lorry (10hrs to get home).
Anyway pulled the engine apart few day's later 4 bent valves, 1 x fecked kent cam, and the crank was badly damaged beyond repair. So a full rebuild was undertaken, new F4r clio oil pump fitted, new catcam turbos cams fitted, b18ft crank has been utilised and modified to fit, f7r meg head has been used many thanks to Mick for coming down and helping me fit the new valves.
car is back together and I have covered some good mileage and several runs at pod on low boost, i am going to get the car mapped agin over the next few weeks
Ill dig some pic's out and upload.
What happened re the Tesco accident??
Small Update I decided to undertake a 172 rear hub conversion on my GTT, I picked up a set of clio 172 sport phase 1 rear hubs about a year ago and never got around to fitting them.
(This is a pain in the arse job all my gtt rear hub bolts seized or snapped on me)
Benefits for the conversion
- clio hub spacers,
- clio camber shims,
- abs sensors,
- abs rings,
- 172 discs can be used,
the use of the abs sensors and rings is more down to the ecu I have the adaptronic 440d universal standalone so these can be wired in for all 4 corner speed sensor readings
Anyway some pics attached
Tools required
30mm Socket for stub axle bolt
18mm Socket and spanner for rear caliper bolts,
19mm 5 sided socket for caliper carrier,
torque wrench
hammer
T45 torx bits
Chisel
m10 x 1.5.. tap
8.5mm drill bit
m10x 50mm 10.9 ht Allen key head flat bolts
Angle grinder cutting and grinding disc's