I always said those raceland manifolds are crap
Comp test it then go from there mate check head yourself with straight edge
I always said those raceland manifolds are crap
Comp test it then go from there mate check head yourself with straight edge
A lot of Andys stories you really shouldn't laugh at as they're all based on a lot of bad luck but it's just the way he tells them, you can't help but have a chuckle.
Gutted things didn't go as they should but on the plus side at least you didn't pay k-tec tax on the manifold for it to fail.
You'll get there in the end Andy
OK,
Done a few things tonight,
Checked compression to all 4. All good at 160 psi each. No signs of breaching on the gasket in any direction, it looked perfect tbh. There was a lot of soot from the exhaust manifold but is very difficult to see exactly where it was blowing from. There looks like a hairline crack on number 1 branch an I expect that opens up quite nicely when hot.
Number 1 was the one that was not firing on the way home as the plug is blackened.
Checked the head for flatness with a 0.004in feeler and a torch and it looks bang on. I'll do it with a 0.002 tomorrow just to be sure. It all looks rosey in there.
I will take this opportunity to put some new studs and nut's / washers on the exhaust/inletmanifold and also the turbo. Is there anything special needed for these nuts and studs?
Nothing special on the studs just buy manifold studs m6? Also get yourself some nice stainless washers and some binx nuts
OK - A bit more
Binks nuts ordered and also turbo gaskets both sides as it was blowing it's tits off. Also worth mentioning, my HT leads look as though they have seen better days and may have been the reason or the '3 pistons only' running issue I had. Fingers crossed, I should be fully up and running by Friday night / Saturday.
Need a fingers crossed smiley here.
Good to see your getting stuck in fella and not loosing hope
Funny you should say that Andy while pottering about on my five yesterday I found my random misfire was also down to my HT leads. Where I'd extented the top radiator hose the metal tube had been rubbing away at the lead. was quite a shocking experience.
Happy days you got to the bottom of your misfiring issue.
Bloody hell mate you don't seem to have much luck with this!
I had a raceland and it only ever cracked where I drilled in for the extremal gate,
But once I migged the **** it never cracked again and people always say don't wrap tube fanimoulds...
Re-assembling now and was unsure about which way around to put the exhaust gasket on and it seems like I have been installing them the wrong way round for many years
Which way round do you all install them???
Metal side to head, as per the factory
Believe who you want mate but that's how they came fitted from the factory.
I did mine metal to head and it doesn't blow andyyyyyyyyy
The inconsistency is constant.
The theory for the way round you have done it is this.
With the metal facing the manifold, it is the manifold which will expand and contract more than the head due to it being much hotter and because of it's construction. The metal aids movement on the manifold side.
Googling this reveals that there are 3 sets of believers
1 - metal to head
2 - metal to manifold
3 - it doesn't matter
oh and 4 - don't use a gasket (normally yank tank oe enthusiasts)
It would seem that technically it should be 1, but number 2 makes more sense but actually 3 is the reality. Number 4 is a given that all yanks are just plain silly.
Actually - I've got to give you that
Thermal barrier shpiel aside, the head face is smooth, the exhaust manifold casting is rough - Which side of the gasket will 'seal' better against the manifold?
I always do. 17 years of being ignored though...
I look at it from the thermal expansion point of view. The head will expand and contract reasonably uniformly, so is better having the metal 'flat' side against it. The Inlet and Exhaust Manifolds obviously expand at vastly different rates, so the 'soft' fibre side allows for the differing rates of expansion.
You can have some metal to metal seals that don't need a gasket, but generally they are finished to an extremely tight tolerance to achieve this, or their intended use doesn't warrant an absolute seal. Even then, if corrosion creeps in, there may be a need to use a gasket at some point if the mating faces can't be refinished.
Metal to the head, I would have thought someone would have mentioned it by now
I've fitted them metal to head as it's the logical option, I think mart knows which way they go but I've not seen him post anything for 17 years now
If you've got a spare lob two on metal side out problem solved
LOL - I've fitted them metal to head for many years now as per advice many years ago without problems, and I know some will be thinking why ask then. I don't know, I've just goto know and when i started looking, there was so much info saying the other way round it was hard to ignore. TBH, I don't think anybody apart from the guys who design the manifolds know for sure. So I'm gonna toss a coin to decide
Aii, don't let theory or facts get in the way of flipping that coin, you geeza.
All back together again now, going out this morning at some point but seems to to be running fine now. Hopefully be able to get a fair amount of time out of her before going tits up again.
Went cracking - just some adjustments to the downpipe due to interference on the subframe and all should be good.
Only ran 12psi, to get going, but went very nicely - glad to be back.
Fluffy lives about time
Check the flange on the down pipe isn't catching on the inner cv of the drive shaft, mine did that, made one hell of a racket
Is 12psi for running in? Hope ur gonna put some bad boy boost thru it :-)
Not updated for a while, so here we go - I've been happily driving around for about 600 miles now with only 1 minor problem after about an hour the car just cuts out and comes back on immediately. The revs hit the deck and as soon as the needle hits the pin it's back on. It's been doing this for a while but I thought I might have sorted this out with the recent rebuild / relocation of the CAS etc. I've done extensive testing on the car and can't find any sensor / wiring faults ATM, Suppression has been added to the coil feed and I have a few more things to try tonight.
Dwell angle to be reduced to further rule out electrical interference and then thanks to JP trying his ECU to see if it is my ecu for some reason. Hope to get closer to the truth tonight.
Ref the row above, it's metal to the manifold.
The R21 Turbo prevents us having the same quandry with a small offset on the exhaust studs so the gasket only goes on one way around
Mot got - with a 'replace that split CV boot' and an advisory of the small oil leak I seem to have, so no biggies there.
However my ECU is toast - off to Scoff for a shake down.
Fluffy is still in the garage.
got meself one of those stretch CV boots to go on the near side outer CV, nice bit of kit and seem to be proper HD. I'll be getting that on some time next week.
Adaptronic and Scoff are being uber amazing in trying to help solve my ECU cutting out problem and they think they might have it. I cannot stress enough at this point why it was that I chose adaptronic and Scoff. It is the back-up you get once things get a bit fuzzy. I know that I wouldn't get the kind of help I'm getting from most ECU manufacturers, and by that I mean Emails, posts and texts at all times guiding you through the process until your there. Or the we'll send you this and that to help you diagnose it from the other side of the world.
We all know what Scoff is about and that's why we all trust / use him (we sometimes even pay him, but not often) well you get the same sort of stuff from the Aussies at adaptronic, they deal with a lot of high end machinery and teams in race series' etc, but they still look after yours truly with my insignificant problems.
So fingers crossed I'll be back on the road within the next few weeks for the season.
I'm not getting the power I expected, but I think I'm coming round to the idea of a bigger blower, I just don't think mine has got what it takes.
"I'm not getting the power I expected, but I think I'm coming round to the idea of a bigger blower, I just don't think mine has got what it takes."
finally the penny drops, you have been told soooo many times
you will also get much better air temps, all though you will have to learn to live with a bit more lag
I thought that lag may, be an issue, but after Ross put the bigger .63/.64 housing on the back of his, he reported a distinct lack of lag when used on mappable ignition, which he's never done before. We need a session to decide which route is best to go down. I could possibly spend as much developing mine as I could buying a new unit.
Suggestions anyone?