Ollie out of interest in the little time you car has been on the road what revs have you taken your f7r to??
Ollie out of interest in the little time you car has been on the road what revs have you taken your f7r to??
7k fella, although with the current turbo the power drops off at 5500 but that will soon change
Gearbox works continue
First off, an old jb3 end casing
Second jc5 box mated to engine, this box is actually the box that was bolted to my engine in the megane when I bought it
The end casing given a coat of paint, not everyone's colour choice but I figured it'd be different
really what was the point in painting that? you will be replacing this gearbox within a few weeks/months at most anyway unless your happy seeing the back end of a certain blue 5 for the rest of your life , aka stop cocking around and get the 02m gearbox started
Mate as I said the old box wasn't actually at fault, I think if I don't drive like a **** this should last plenty long enough.
I already have the paint so bolloxs to it, I fancied abit of colour
Oh and I will see the back end of a certain blue 5........ Up a tree backwards
Looking forward to seeing this again Oli - without manifold leaks etc, keep up the good work, and Andy - there's a right way, a wrong way and a Handy Andy way, I'm thinking Oli's not going down the Handy Andy (Ahem - Scoff) Route. Lets see how he gets on. He may just be the one to show that that box he's putting on is fine.
Then again............................................. ............
To be fair Andy I know that JC5 will only buy me time but that's all I need it to do, yes it'd be nice if it holds up fine but as long as its last 3 to 4 months it'd give me enough time to a few jobs sorted on the car and around the house and to save up the cash for an O2M box conversion.
Engines back in
Logg engine mounts are in
Given my new cam cover a rub done and primed, the gearbox end casing paint reacted so rubbed it down again and reprimed
Last edited by Os8472; 29-02-2012 at 06:28.
oohhh....aahh
did those mounts turn up painted or did you spray them chief
will pop in tomorrow and find out about your alloy boost pipe, so you can pick up and drop of the goodie sat morning, might even let you have a sneaky peak at the first of the 2 x02m boxes
you might even be surprised
Nope they came in grey primer, I gave em a quick splash of red to match.
Can't wait to have a nose at them but they may be a tiny problem, will call u about it
Looking awesome Ol' - can't wait to see it done.
Finally got her running again today, battery had to be charged but once it was fully charged she started and purred like a kitten.......... right up until I blipped the throttle when she roared
With the new engine mounts being so stiff I was worried that there would be a lot of vibrations transferred but there was hardly any
Apart from the gearbox the engine went back in with only a new actuator which was supposed to be a 7psi job, er no, that'll be a bar then and shed loads of wheel spin
The gearbox as I've said before is the jc5 megane coupe box so it should be stronger than the jb3 it replaced, it's gearing is apparently slightly taller which will help with economy and top speed and best of all the speedo sensor it has I think will run the standard GTT clocks just fine, however I need an old GTT speedo sensor and wiring upto the 3 pin plug, doesnt matter if it doesn't work, anyone got one kicking around?
Of late the rear ride height has dropped a worrying amount, my original thought was the rear dampers were giving up and sure enough when I got them off they were in a bad way, the adjusters were seized even though I greased them during install and the passenger side wouldn't return after being compressed by hand. When it came to fitting the new Gaz rear dampers I found one of the bush inserts off the old dampers had seized onto the top bolt, this required some heat, a bench vice and a hammer to remove. Unfortunately although the rear suspension has improved the ride height is still low, my next step is swap out the bars themselves as I think they may have been over stressed. Anyone know if Clio valver bars are the same?
I'm hoping to finish painting the new cam cover and install it tomorrow, this should sort out the heavy breathing problem this engine has had since I built it, the old one didn't have the OE baffle plates so I had made my own but the two ports had been opened out aswell, I didn't know this till I got the new one.
Last edited by Os8472; 03-03-2012 at 23:29.
New cam cover is on, breather system reconfigured and everything is ready to go, gunna go find a recovery truck tonight before heading to HAndy's for a laugh
take it easy mate , dont want you breaking that freshly fitted gearbox with the shiny "red bit" when coming over to my place tonight, but just in case ive got a spare jc5 ........for the right price of course ......and no ....maccy d's wont cover it before you ask!
1 thing I've been meaning to do since I got the f7r engine running is replace the temporary boost hose from the charge cooler to the throttle body, I made the original with pipes work I already had kicking around.
It exited the charge cooler at 63mm, dropped to 55mm then up to 75mm onto the body
The new pipe is 63mm off the charge cooler all the way And steps up at the end to 75mm onto the body
Given the 5 a couple of good shake down runs after the gearbox change and the box is a beauty, the synchro's are mint, shifts perfectly and feels nice and tight............. but there's a problem, the box was supposed to be taller geared than the OE JB3 box but it's actually shorter the tag is right for the car but the sticker that's on the end tank has a different number jc5089, anyone know what it's off?
jc5 089 is the ph1 172 gearbox i think, its a long ratio box though has very tall gears 75 ish in 2nd with about 7600rpm, ruffly off the dash that is
No idea which one is shorter, but I think I was told its the jb5 box that ends in 022 that you want.
Great stuff, could i ask, what disc's did you use i ended up with 285 lancer disc and a bit of machining, im sure we will have the same set up. What pads did you go for, i made some d2500s fit, dead easy job
I wish i put this engine in mine
Fairplay you have put some sort of time and money into your car really enjoyed reading your thread keep up the good work mate
Finally got a chance to raise the rear ride height so the car wasn't dragging its arse on the floor, I decided to set the ride height as per the cup manual minus 30mm, this ment I had to raise the back 65mm
Well I spent a few hours working on little bits on the 5 and decided to take it out for a run.........
Bad move, seems the 5 once again proves its female and a jealous 1 at that by dropping its oil on the road off the estate, seems she was upset about how much time I've be spending on the 9
The engine is out and on a stand (thanks for the loan JP), stripped the sump, end plate, oil pump cover and resealed them and replaced both crankshaft oil seals and sump refitted.
Now waiting on the new turbo, gearbox and clutch to turn up so I can get the engine back in.
While the engine is out I'm sorting a few other bits, first off the brake lines. I was never happy with the adapters I had to use to connect the 4 pots to the flexi lines so I'm replacing them, the flexis and the copper lines with one piece steel braided lines and the correct ends from the master cylinder all the way to the calipers and at the same time reroute them so they are a little less exsposed to the heat off the turbo and down pipe.
I'm going to make up a heat shield for the master cylinder because of how float it is to the down pipe, I know it's heat wrapped but I want to be sure that no excess heat is making its way into the brake lines.
Second I'm getting the wide track done, thanks HAndy I've got some valver wishbones with good condition bushes in, I've fitted those along with a valver anti roll bar and poly bushes. The result, 15mm extra width on both sides, about 1 and half negative camber, I'm going to leave that as is till I get to test it, if it's too much I'll fit the camber correcting bolts I have and if need be a have a pair of rose jointed top mounts to tweak the setup further. Other than that I just need to wind the track rod ends out to reduce to toe out caused by the wider wishbones.
I'm thinking ill move the header tank up next to battery to give more space for the air filter as the new turbo will require the boost circuit and inlet feed to be reworked.
Oli are the driveshafts still ok to do this?
Cool, may be thinking of doing it myself at some point.
Is that all is needed, crikey. I was going to use valver Hubs (I believe to be the same as the GTT just with bigger bearing's), i was also going to use the clio steering rack, as I was going to pikey mod the power steering into mine aswell using F7p engine won't be a C1J (once I find another 5 that is already have F7p engine).
Olly you will get there matey, plenty of time
Got any pic's of progress I love a good pic
Just had my new turbo rear housing delivered, ok it's a Chinese copy but I gotta say it looks perfect, the machining is nice and neat, the mating flanges are perfectly flat, it comes with both manifold to turbo and turbo to exhaust gasket, both of which are MLS items, comes with the retaining brackets to fit the core and it all came in 150quid cheaper than a genuine part
wastegate works the other way round
Important question, how big is it?
This is how the engine bay currently sits
And this is where the engine is
As you can see, lots to do.
The brake line Bits i ordered were 3metres of steel braided 3/8 line, 2x 1/8npt unions and 2x M10x1 unions, this allows me to make up one piece lines to what ever length I want and with no adapters so as to reduce the chance of a leak from any joins and so I can route the lines where ever I want.
With HAndy's help we got the new brake lines fitted and the system bled up, got the camber bolts fitted and got the car back on its wheels, will need to unsieze the track rods to reduce the toe out but the good news is the camber isn't as bad as I thought it was going to be
Spent a good few hours tonight working on the tracking, I tried unseize the track rod ends in situ but that was never going to happen so I took the whole steering rack off and got busy with the big spanners after a lot of swearing and grazed knuckles I got the ends off, cleaned up, copper greased and refitted. I used a tape measure to roughly reset the tracking so I can at least drive the car to a garage and get the tracking done properly without destroying the tyres.
The ends are on the way out but I've got a plan to replace them with something better to improve feel through the wheel and reduce play, just need to find out what the thread is on the ends? I know it's bigger than an M12 but it looks like a fine pitch, anyone know?
I have a new pair genuine renault clio 16v/ williams track rod ends here if your interested?