Is there a way i can remove the cam without taking the head off, and without taking the engine out?
Is there a way i can remove the cam without taking the head off, and without taking the engine out?
I used a standard 2554r and could not believe how laggy it was. 5000rpm before any real boost. 0.49 definately needed with one of those.
cam out without removing engine is easy enough, it involves undoing the front o/s engine mount, jacking the engine right up so that the cam slides out into the hole in the inner wing that the anti-perc fan normally lives in.
doing it with the head on isn't worthwhile. I remember sparkie talking about using magnets on rods to hold the followers up while you swap the cams. problem is, I'd be wanting to inspect the state of the lifters before I banged a new cam in.
I like my 28R with the .64, it's laggy, but i'm sure it's on boost before 5k, more 4.5k. I managed to get 25psi out of it, but that was too much.
adam, it'll depend a lot on cam choice. my cam wasn't that good at making torque below 5000rpm so didn't help spool. I also ran it at 2bar, which it took quite a while to get to, 5.5krpm I think !! probably 20psi or so came up at 5000rpm. maybe 1 bar at 4800rpm from memory.
Yea, i'd have thought as much, but I don't have a clue what cam is in the engine. I was told lift, but that was it. Still, it suits the car pretty well.
I guess. I only used the .64 because it came with the GT2554R I used as a base, and didn't fancy waiting 2 days for a new .49 to arrive. The lag doesn't bother me. To be honest, the way the car drives with the .64, I wouldn't be suprised if it made the car a nightmare on boost with the .49, as it's spinning up through 3rd now.
what kinda boost u running there at the moment adam ???
Only about 21psi. If you're after any more details about the engine, you're asking the wrong person, as I didn't build it.
at about 21psi (i take it thats manifold ) must be knocking or over 200 BHP i would expect .......... i was just asking what boost as im looking to whack on a gt28r next year
Yup, fanimold pressure.
I've got an oil in adapter, you're welcome to, but the feed pipe thread is tiny to what i've seen in the past. Looks close to 1/4 unf... I'd have to check that aswell.
Adam do you know what type of water feed is used on the side closest to the engine ??? Cos so far i have only managed to get hold of a straight down feed , was wondering if a 90degree feed was available here in uk ....... seen some on ebay but£32 ...
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Turbo-Turbocha...1%7C240%3A1318
Cheers adam , ill just wait and try the straight one first then before i fork out anymore cash. What actuator u using with the turbo adam ???
Didn't want to open new thread since question is completely related to the topic...
I have GT2554R and from my standpoint it is too laggy in first two gears. In third it is ripping car apart. Still, would like to improve spool in 1st and 2nd. I have .49 rear from my T25 and was wondering how much modification is needed to fit it on GT25? Is it worth bothering at all? I'm running 24psi at manifold and it kicks full boost around 5000 rpm and would like to lover it at least 500 rpm.
Thanks
Yep, I know that but my question was is there possibility to switch .64 rear from GT25 with .49 from T25 without massive modifications on turbine wheel housing. I know that bolt pattern is different and that is half hour amateur job...
The wheel trim is the same, so there's no modifications needed on the internal part of the scroll, you just need to machine the core seat. It's not a quick job though.
Thanks for the info Adam. So i need to adjust part that needs to "sit" on the central part of the turbo (oil and water inlet/outlet) which is afterward tightened with two "half moons". Did I got it right?
Do not have intention of doing it myself. Gonna take it to local specialist for metal processing.
EDIT: I added picture. Adam is this part what are you talking about? This one in perfect circle
Last edited by jure; 10-02-2009 at 08:54.
Yes, that's the part that needs machining, quite a bit of metal needs cutting back, so the original holes may be left redundant. There's several ways you can do it, I hope the people you take it to do it properly.
They will. No worries Adam. Thanks once again. You are true turbo guru