Good to hear progress. Well done.
Good to hear progress. Well done.
it does run, honest. Hunts a bit, don't know why, maybe it'll sort itself out once it's done a bit more running?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mgnO2HP5kAs
A couple of general pictures, I think I just need to hot glue the rad to the front panel, I'm bored of making brackets now. I wish I'd kept whatever held the rad to the front panel in the 172.
General shots showing all the free space available.
Some good news though, I'd been concerned that the speedo was showing speed when I started it before, no problem, it's on stands and the driveshafts were spinning in neutral
The temp sensor on the front of the block maybe fubarred, just pull the coupler off and see it improves it
Progress i like to see...
Andy, nice overalls
good show bud, what happened to the clio shell?
Pants, how hard was the wiring side of things? Very tempted to drop the 172 lump in the 11
excelent, not too complicated then
Ade, have a butchers at my harness if you're unsure mate, not many wires needed to fire it up
I'm running out of space
I knocked up a bracket to hold the 172 rad onto the Twingo front panel from a bit of my old trailer tyre rack, fear not, it was pretty thin, and thus light
With the rad bolted on I tried to fit the front panel onto the car, first of all the water pipes were in the way, so I removed them and tried again. Then the clutch arm was hitting a fan support, snapped the support off and tried again. Then the fan was hitting the wiring support bracket on the gearbox, so I cut that off and tried again. Then the fan was hitting the gearbox - forkit, I removed the fan and tried again. It now pretty much fitted, although the rad hits the engine mount I made . I'll need to cut the bracket down when I get 5 minutes, but for now the rad just about fits, albeit without pipes or fan.
It looks like I'll be able to use the Twingo fan with a custom bracket, and maybe the pipes will fit with a cut and shut.
I've sorted out the throttle cable by rotating the throttle body 90deg and using the standard Twingo cable. Unfortunately the bracket does go right where I expected to put the intake pipe and filter...
The good news is that I can still close the bonnet
whilst I remember I also took a couple of shots showing where the brake pressure regulator fits under the servo.
Nearly there now
it doesn't feel like it's nearly there, there are so many small and not so small jobs left to do, and I have almost no free time before La Vie en Bleu. That said, all the driver controls work, and it's finished from the bulkhead back.
The main things left are:
cooling
LH driveshaft needs to be shortened
air filter
tidy up the wiring and pipework
MOT
ISCV should go into pipe one as shown here
I take it your inlet has the blank drilled out for the iscv.
I'll have a look at my Clio but I'm sure it's the inlet.
some good news, some bad. Starting with the bad.
I tried to shorten the driveshaft to suit, it's made of tough stuff, my hacksaw wouldn't touch it, and my mill make lots of sparks and smoke as I cracked through the outer shell. It turns out that it's solid, so there's no way I can weld it. It looks like I'll have to get one made
On the plus side I got real lucky with the fan, having worked out how to adapt the Twingo fan to fit the 172 rad and miss the engine I had a search around the shed for suitable materials. I came across my old GTT fan, thinking it might be easier to fit than the Twingo one I tried it against the 172 rad. Rotated 90deg is bolted straight on. Dropped the front panel back onto the car and the fan missed the engine and all the important bits.
So, I've now fitted the front panel, radiator, and fan for hopefully the last time. I've fitted the OS headlamp, and it misses the alternator pulley by about 3mm, so that'll be one to keep an eye on. I trimmed the engine mount back to miss the radiator, so that's done. I tried the bumper on, and it needed a bit of trimming to miss the larger radiator and bracket, nothing too taxing, and that too is now fitted. Finally I refitted the bonnet lock, and that's working fine too.
Major outstanding jobs are:
tyrap and tape wiring loom
make water pipes
wire up fan
get a driveshaft
sort out my ECU so I can use it and give Spooky his back
air filter - being sorted, no huge problem
I bought a new lambda sensor, so I'll need to fit that
tracking
spanner check
errm, MOT...
I think that's it
Give it a couple of days and the list will get longer, it always does!
Its always the little niggle jobs that take forever aswell!
Nice work
Andy, keep the ECU for as long as you need it, no rush
In a moment of pure optimism today I thought that I might be able to fit the outer 172 CV onto the Twingo driveshaft to make what I needed. I got the CV off the 172 shaft OK, but when it came to removing the one off the twingo shaft I found it was a cheapo one piece affair, so no chance of swapping anything.
Flushed with failure I've been trawling the web for a catalogue listing driveshaft dimensions. This is what I found:
lengths are Left - right, in mm
R5 GTT 595 - 690
Clio 16V 605 - 705
Clio Williams 620 - 720
Clio Sport 639 - 734
R19 16V 640 - 740
Twingo I 625 - 750
Anyone got a Williams shaft lying around, or know where to find one? Hopefully I'll be able to swap a 172 CV onto that...
Andy, if you get really stuck you can send me up a shaft with details of how much to remove and I'll shorten it for you.
I could although the result may not be as tough. Normally I cut a castle top shape into each half of the shaft, inter lock them, weld and then slip a tube over the lot and weld that in to. I could do it without the tube. Would it matter if it was 6/7mm bigger OD in one area ?
I'd hate to try and cut anything fancy on these shafts, they're seriously hard, plus being solid it'd be tricky to make any kind of shape. It was at that point that I lost interest
I'd be concerned going bigger on the OD, the 172 shaft is already quite a bit bigger than the twingo one, and there is very little clearance to the subframe.
I've sent out an SOS to Dieppe on the off chance that there is an off the shelf shaft of the right length, seems a bit unlikely though.
Oh, I assumed the 172 shaft would be hollow like a GT. Could we not shorten a GT shaft instead ? The join can be inward of the chassis leg, I have the same problem with clearence.
found someone selling Williams shafts
http://www.bacciromano.com/index.php...&cat2=51&mar=8
I might have a shaft, although it might be an r19 one... Will get tape measure out tonight and let you know.
Hope you get your money back as well, I know what it's like when people promise to send or refund things and never do.
it finally looks like the driveshaft saga is coming to an end....
is it just me that had never come across a 'peek aboo party pole'?
Anyway, that's the packaging that the Williams driveshaft came in
I thought I was looking sweet when my new 172 CV arrived on Monday, and the Williams shaft was in the post. Unfortunately I found on Monday evening that the CV was wrong, I'm glad I checked straight away. I should receive the correct one tomorrow.
The Williams shaft arrive today, and this evening I popped the CV off (I'm getting good at them now ) I now know 100% that the 23 spline 172CV will fit the Williams shaft (these have a 21 spline CV) The length looks OK too.
All this means I can go on holiday happy that the driveshaft should fit, and the last piece of the Twingo 172 puzzle has dropped into place
I've come across one many a time
anyone know if I need to index the joint, or even how to? In my excitement to take everything apart I forgot to mark things up
Anyway, that's the packaging that the Williams driveshaft came in
-----------------------------------------------------------
Yeah, righto.
I just saw this andrew, You received my PM i sent yesterday and replyed/.
It will be sorted by the weekend once im up and running again.
Please feel free to put a paypal dispute in if it makes you feel more secured, but i am certianly not going to run away/rip you off and make me look like a dodge ******* for £75 its just the paypal not being authorized thats caused the delay. If sending you £75 in the post via sign for will be quicker i also will be happy to do that too
Kind Regards
Andy
I got back from Italy at 3:30 this morning, since I have an MOT booked in for 9am tomorrow I've needed to finish off a few jobs. No pictures unfortunately as my camera is still on holiday.
First job was to assemble the 172 CV onto the williams shaft. That all went ok, and fitted onto the car without drama. With the hub nut loose I pushed and pulled the CV to check the plunge, it felt OK, so I bolted everything up and topped up the gearbox oil.
With the car on stands I started the engine and dropped it into gear, this produced a horrible cyclic rubbing noise. My first though was that I'd dropped a clanger and that the driveshafts were rubbing on something. A quick check showed nothing obvious, so I turned the wheel by hand, listening and looking for anything odd. The inner end of the Williams driveshaft is moving eccentrically, the joint feels OK, so I think there's a reasonable possibility that the shaft is bent . I didn't have time to strip everything down to be certain, and it'll be OK for getting an MOT.
I continued bolting the suspension together, and dropped it onto the floor. Moment of truth, I started it up and drove backwards and forwards on the drive. Tyrapped a few wires etc out of the way, fitted the missing headlight, checked it, wired the fan, and ran the engine to get it fully hot with the fan switching in and out.
I think the rideheight might need a tweek, the front looks too low to me (the suspension kit is for the 1.2L engine, so it's probably just the extra engine weight pulling it down) The rear looks a bit high, but I'm going to drive it to see how twitchy it feels, due to the lack of droop at the rear lowering will make it more stable.
I considered it washing it, but my one bucket technique requires me to have a bucket and sponge. It's so long since I've used either that I can't find them and have probably used the bucket for storing parts or draining oil...
Awesome
well, good news and bad.
It all works. It's been a while since I've driven a quick road car, at first it felt a bit slow, but once warm and using the revs it certainly picks up it's skirts and flies. More than fast enough for the lanes around here. With no air filter it makes a noise that says 'look at me', and that won't really change as I'm going to be using an open pipercross filter (it should be waiting for me at work).
The brakes need a bit of a bleed, but they work well enough.
Suspension feels OK, not too stiff. I still need to do the tracking so no heroics on that front.
Unfortunately it failed the MOT on some rust, I'm getting it patched up to get through the MOT, but really need to do a proper underfloor restoration and anti corrosion job during the winter. It's just on the turn now, so shouldn't be too bad, but needs doing right.
Overall the MOT guy was impressed, I've known him years, so spent the time to talk through what I'd done, and what I'd swapped so that he could have a good look at those areas.
Roll on Prescott this coming weekend
Andrew Fantastic news that she is all up and running with a few minor issues for the MOT. You'll have to get some pics up so we can all see how she now looks sitting down on all wheels and any vids you have of driving.
Think you haven't yourself a nice cuppa
Thanks James
Do you know what map is in the ECU? it doesn't feel that great, although the Twingo peashooter might be bunging it up
I'm going to have to be careful in it as it's such fun giving it a big squirt, I gave it full beans on entering a 60 limit earlier, and came upon a photographer hiding in a corner trying to take a magazine type photo of a beemer coming the other way. I could see him trying to peer around me to see what was making the noise