Thanks matey .I'll look after it for you
Final fit on starter
Feck me ...it only bloody well works
http://s193.photobucket.com/albums/z...t=MVI_5503.flv
Thanks matey .I'll look after it for you
Final fit on starter
Feck me ...it only bloody well works
http://s193.photobucket.com/albums/z...t=MVI_5503.flv
Hey brilliant
Keep the dims on the spacers, I'll get one in
It all seems to fit .I need to grind a bit out of the Turbo mount plate to get better access for bolts but everything else works
Can't get the 3 liter ' Y ' pipe in though Martin ,the inlet plenum won't seat with it in place .
Here you go, need to do something like this. Want the heat away from the inlet manifold anyway. I machined a groove in the copper pipe to retain a ring of JB Weld type stuff, and wetted both the inside of the Y and the copper tube up with JB and hammered the copper tube in as deep as I could get it in. Think I have more tube left, will check and knock up two. Believe me it's not coming out, and the seal is hard on, and should always be in compression
I'll get sawing then
It still touching though .....the main OD is still hitting the bottom of the manifold , it'll have to be flattened quite a bit
Are those 3l heads on that build ? That would explain it as the 2.5l manifold needs spacing to fit on that combination
Ah yes sorry bud, poor memory is a good thing- you forget the pain... yes 3ltr heads and manifold and it was all tight on that as well. Nearly didn't have a way to get water from the left to the right to go back out. Cut and welded loads of bits from the 2.5ltr and 3ltr in some strange combinations... the left head exit is one part of a 3ltr Y divider with a tube welded on for the hose, the stat housing is cut'n'shut to a 2.5 exit stub out what was the bypass to make a swirl pot... twaz nightmare... and of course no room for the pump...
the atmo spacers are about 2mm thick, I'll go grab one and measure it, but they sit outside the o-rings, so how are we going to get the manifold to seal... aah probs atmo o-rings are bigger diameter
Can you get a pic so I can see? Can we mill off some meat from the mating flanges on the Y that bolt to the block? How much do we need to lose?
The other thing was the copper pipe tends to point up as well, well it did to try and make an even glue line around it's periphery. Blast... double blast...
Is the GTA 'Y' really that bad ?
know it looks biased to one side but how does it actually flow ? Worth putting a hose on it to see ?
Could chop the join bit off leaving two angled outlets then fix in one of these to form a true Y ..
http://www.cbsonline.co.uk/universal...ucy-4942-p.asp
ha-ha+ yes it's pretty ***te... yes done the hose trick (why said in first place... but may be my hose ) and you will see you only get one wet foot nought or nearly nought comes out the other side until you restrict the right side. Think this happens to some degree by the return flow joiner from the two heads (seems to restrict the right side head) in the original config, total rubbish way of doing it IMO.
Yes sounds and looks good... just getting a flange on there to clamp to, need some ally tube of the right size and will have to weld on - if I'm understanding correctly like.
Modded bellhousing back on box .Lot's of little bits becoming big bits to bolt together very soon
when you ran this on starter, did the rockers hit the rocker cover? kinda curious for obvious reasons ... PRV MAF1.. by way I know what this is going to sound like now, most gratfying
Ran it with covers off so I dunno ......haven't heard or seen them lift turning by hand though ,will check .
Good on you getting a little write up in this months PPC mag Clee!
Ahh ,well ...it was more of a plug than a write up but it did scan well I thought
Hope to make real progress in the next week .Big bolt together Sun/Mon and try and fire it up on the deck to run the cams in .It might mean some bodges to do it but they will be undone before Pod .
Subframe finally blasted .......Good guy though and local .Etched and then top coated as soon as I got it back in the garage .
Lots of big bits become bigger bit
It will all have to come apart again as I need to make up some bits and mod some others but I can see it being in and running very soon
Remote oil filter , sensor plate and take off for oil cooler .Turbo oil drain to sort now and it's done enough ready to plumb up on the floor and fire it to run cams in
This weekend should be noisy
Needs must ...so this is going in and the std inter cooler is being converted to a rad ....
you do know that intercoolers make bad radiators, and vice versa?
How bad ? I'm strapping a fan to it as well .
It just needs to work until I can get a rad made to fit the old intercooler space .It is not long term .
I was more concerned about the £80 chargecooler but it looks solid enough ......
Bad enough that you'll feel bad about the effort you put in to making it fit. You'd be better off using an old heater core, better yet, pull a radiator off something small in the scrappie - you might even find one with an electic fan attached... I think my K10 Micra one was on the small side?
or motorbike...
Wot bout this then ? Just pulled it out ...GTA heater matrix ? 6" x 8" core ??
Ahh but... don't forget where this will sit
Turbo oil drain .It's a bit tight but I think once the headers are wrapped it'll be OK .
Pirtek Derby while u wait
do you know the temp spec of that hose? I had a problem errm, ahem, 20 yrs ago... with a braided clutch hose on an F3 car, we melted it and it wasn't as close as that.
It's ptfe not rubber but temp ? I dunno ?
My own fault it's tight I didn't allow for the length of pipe to go over the fittings both ends .
I keep looking at it ......... have just cut another std drain pipe down to get another one made up tomorrow 100mm longer and the pipe bend at the bottom 60 rather than 45 .They might be able to just cut the pipe off and re-do it ??
It was £30 so not too painful and best in the long run
Better
That looks bob on, nice bracket too, no melting for you.
It's in for real ,runs well ,chargecooler done ,clutch is OK
Had it out for a spin and it feels fine .Time to bed the rings in then off to POD on Friday .It won't be mapped and the turbo is way to small but hope to get some mapping done at Pod
Excellent
Put 80 miles on the engine on the run down to Pod .
Mr Scoff spent an hour or so mapping the new setup and before you know it the clutch is slipping
13.2 @108 I think was the best with the dodgy clutch and 18psi .
Loads of power still to come we all think so good job well done to all concerned .Martin F especially for a top notch bit of headwork
Next job is to put this in so no more popping to the offy or gentle Sunday drives
It breathes so much better than the standard engine, evedent because the engine just kept needing more and more fuel the higher we got with RPM's. There is a lot more to come from that engine without a doubt, good job guys. Lee, I will look at injector duty in the new map today for you.
I think it will push past 300 Steve It just keeps on going .Rev limit is set at 7400 at present .
Funny you mention the clutch slipped. I watched the last run and I could hear it and instantly thought it wasn't coping.
Thanks Chris. Great to meet you, and really appreciate your time and help yesterday transforming the way she was running... huge amount invested in one form or another, and on a scale of 1 to 10, it was an 11 wanting to hear it sing. So real thanks mate, and you're an all round nice chap too
When you both (Chris & Lee) are happy with the map I would like to compare to my torque and power curve model and see where it sits. Would like to get a power / torque pull curve off dyno at some stage, as the development of the cam profile was focused on achieving flow potential, LCA was kept as standard at 112 deg, and timing only increased to achieve the lift requirements. For track duty I think we may need some more tweaks, but will need feedback from Lee as to how it drives / performs etc, but following Lee back certainly sounded crisp and shifting nicely. Lee, how did the spool compare to previous?
The head is safe to over 8500 rpm, if you drop a gear etc. The valve gear masses are now down and comparable to my Fiat stuff, and that track red-lined at over 9k rpm. The spring set and pre-load is the same, so I know where it is as far as that is concerned. The bottom end is likely to be the main rev limiting factor, but on a feel good factor I think she should hold sustained 7500 and set a cut at around 7800 ish. From memory (I will check my notes - project started over a year ago now opps), I think the power should peak around 7200rpm, so going to need to swing past that for shifting
As to power, aim 300 at the wheels, or I will have eat my hat or blame it on the gearbox! ha-ha+... but depends so many things .. just writing the excuses, laugh...
Thanks Lee, and a pleasure thanks for the faith and understanding when it all seemed to be going backwards so thanks for keeping the faith!
I looked for the upgrade coupler material not found it yet, will ask the gear chaps. The original is EN24 and the input shaft is EN36 from the
checks that were done a few years back, not sure of the exact grade. Will be worth looking for a cheap 4 spider diff from a UN5 master gearbox, but see how we get on first.
Can you send me the dims we took off the turbo, will try and workout it's spec, thanks.
Great day!
Nice to see the V6 coming on Lee sounded very good and saw the 13.2 pass. Dint arf shift for a big boat, glad it's working out for ya - you have a good team on your side.
Martin ,I will if I can find it .
Bit of a mad day today . RATS is full .Upset all the neighbors with trailers and shuffling .You wait ages for one and then .....Poor old JIL is relegated to the outdoors ,after yesterday that surely is not right
Thanks Andy .Yes top team
It weighing in at 1085kg ish without my sizeable bulk so getting that rolling needs some oomph
We need some bigger injectors ,bigger CC rad and some other tweaks but I'm going to get it all together before I pull the lump again .Might also swap gearbox for a GTA atmo one and beef that up .Nat Day must happen for me though to really see how it goes on track proper .
Martin got a few vids of the test runs .
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uu-FWNg39oc
Just been looking over my numbers again, and need to revise previous, good health and poor memory and all that , 7200 was right but that's where the power starts dropping off. Peak torque is going to be around 5800 - 6000, possibly a bit lower on that turbo (5000 -ish) and peak power 6800 -ish but slow-ish curve, and should hold up well past 7200 rpm. 7500rpm soft limit seems reasonable, lights-up from 4k, so want your gear shifts to drop you no lower than 5k if possible, so worth checking your cogs
Don't know how that fits with your current fuel curve Lee?
......looks like I need to take the step off the flywheel and get it re-doweled ,make up a bearing carrier to fit an existing carrier plate and possibly rebate the crank bolts ....but other than taht it's a perfect fit
Sorry Martin ,I know you were wanting to swing on a scaffold pole but the man made me do it
You have a small lathe don't you ??
Did tony @ techcraft help you out with that one lee ?
Looks great
Lathe, yeap, what do you need to swing?
Yes Scoff ,very helpful chap .Even gave me a discount
Serendipity on the release bearing Martin .Don't need to make up a carrier Center is bob-on ,just had to remove the outer plastic surround to allow the new bearing to spin .
The standard mount with a little fettle and the new bearing fits . Just need to skim off the step and redrill the fly .
It is all working out slightly lower than the Master setup so will be very near to std GTA heights
Dropped the flywheel off down Leicester for machining and get home to find this on the doorstep
Shown next to std GTA