I have recently bought a R5 GTT as some people will know, I have receipts for k-tec racing pistons, liners and shells, replaced valve stem oil seals, ported manifold, k-tec headgasket head skimmed and pressure tested t24 turbo. Also has a full Silicone hose set.
What BHP should I expect???
120bhpOriginally Posted by diggerdog36
120bhp if your lucky
Whats a T24 turbo? I've heard of a T2 and a T25 but never a T24
maybe abit more than 120 if the boost is wanged up abit.....
what they are saying is that nothing you have listed actually increases bhp. - so why would they assume anything other than standard bhp?
121bhp as the head has been skimmed
I have only owned the car for 2 weeks, and all that time its been off the road. Im only asking because I havent got a clue, Im only going off what the receipt says about the T24 turbo (its from Turbo Technics), I wouldnt know what a T2 or T25 looked like. Or like you say, whether a T24 exists!!
OK - have you got a boost gauge?
But it has a thicker head gasket, so that drops it down to 119bhp121bhp as the head has been skimmed
maybe it's got a group A carb, so 112hpBut it has a thicker head gasket, so that drops it down to 119bhp
Woah woah woah, you are making no sense to me!! It has had a new carb with different jets cos theres a receipt for that too!
The receipt says;
R5 Main jet.........1.3
R5 Air Corrector Jet.......0.9
KTR Carb Kit
Labour
£145
TouchéBut it has a thicker head gasket, so that drops it down to 119bhp
If your running standard boost the above just means you are probably overfueling.
As per what Bric says do you have a boost gauge? if so what boost pressure is the car running??? is it carb top or carb base??
Ok, basically, what has been said already is with the information you supplied we can only assume you are at standard BHP.
If you can tell us what boost level you are running, assuming no other mods, we can make a better "guestimation".
Every carb/engine/car combination can work differently, but from the spec of your carb I would imagine 15psi boost is possible; I'm no carb guru, there are other people on here who could give you a better idea.
So, to answer your original question, very roughly:
Assuming you run 15psi boost, you can strap/flow your intercooler, using either a T2 or T25 (I've never heard of a T24 either) and perhaps with a couple of other small mods I reckon you could get 150bhp ... maybe
OK guys, you'll have to bear with me cos I dont really know much about these cars, the car is running a boost gauge, but the car is not at home, its in Newcastle. But once I test it Ill let you's know. How do I test it, just give it a boot full of throttle and see where the gauge goes upto??
In a word, yes. It may peak one or two psi higher and then settle back down ... it's the settled figure that you want. Also, if you can trace the tube in the back of the gauge to see where in the engine bay it has been plumbed in that will help.
Also, if you want to learn about the car and how to service/modify, etc. then check out these articles:
https://www.rtoc.org/boards/forumdisplay.php?f=18
also, get yourself a Haynes manual
Also, if you want to learn about the car and how to service/modify, etc. then check out these articles:
https://www.rtoc.org/boards/forumdisplay.php?f=18
also, get yourself a Haynes manual
Just in case anyone needs this I uploaded some of my Green haynes guide to scribd as it was falling apart.
http://www.scribd.com/doc/9607384/Re...apter-1-Engine
http://www.scribd.com/doc/9607419/Re...Cooling-System
http://www.scribd.com/doc/9607486/Re...xhaust-Systems
http://www.scribd.com/doc/9607507/Re...gnition-System
http://www.scribd.com/doc/9607520/Re...apter-5-Clutch
http://www.scribd.com/doc/9607532/Re...c-Transmission
James, you got any pics of the electrical diagrams
My ****y heater vent fan has stopped working, was fine a while back now the bitch has just stopped altogether.
With the rain, I can't even drive my car without fogging myself out.
I felt likeat first...then
...then...
...and now I'm a bit
and
James, you got any pics of the electrical diagrams
My ****y heater vent fan has stopped working, was fine a while back now the bitch has just stopped altogether.
With the rain, I can't even drive my car without fogging myself out.
I felt like
http://www.scribd.com/doc/9608043/Re...iring-Diagrams
The missing pages are in here that are in the Blue Haynes
https://www.rtoc.org/files/?path=Tech...ng%20diagrams/
Noice one
How do I know what Turbo is bolted onto my car. Is there a way to tell with the numbers on the shell?
Picture of it would be goodand a pic of the engine bay its self.
Here is the engine bay, nothing really to look at. I will take a photo of the turbo at the weekend when Im with the car!
The intercooler is not strapped and there is a bleed valve on there, hopefully a mild boost setting or otherwise the end tanks will get blown off. Get shot of the dumb valve, its just more things to go wrong, leak boost, run lean,go bang etc
Bleed Valve???? Intercooler not strapped, what does that mean, its not strapped into the car?? I noticed it was just sat there free to move. How do I get rid of the dump valve, do I just remove it and block up the little thin pipe that goes to the carb top.
intercooler strapped refers to a large jubilee clip/strap that goes all the way around the intercooler, the reason for this is to hold the top and bottom black plastic end tanks from blowing off at increased boost levels. also a reason why folks usually fit full alloy version.
with regards to the dump valve, yea just remove and block it and find where the thing pipe is plumbed into and block it.
The bleed valve is the small brass valve in the middle of the two pipes, this lets you raise/lower your boost by turning the screw.
You can strap the intercooler by running a large jubilee clip all the way around it (to stop the caps popping off with higher boost). Also, if you look in the two holes, inside there may well be a flap that you can lift up. If you wedge this up with a screw or similar this will also help. This is what's referred to as a strapped and flowed intercooler.
Yes, to remove the DV, remove it from the boost pipe, block up the hole where it used to be and block off the vacuum pipe from carb top. Job's a good 'un.
balls ... too slow
I was looking at fitting an alloy intercooler anyway cos this one looks pooped, what is the reason for the flap in the intercooler then?
To keep charge temps down whilst the engine is cold to prevent what is known as carb freeze, especially in the winter. The flap (he he, flap) opens up when the air temp increases, kinda like how a thermostat works in the cooling system.
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