not trackrod ends, the whole thing where it goes into the rack...
They have a smooth dome, and some kind of fancy pressed tin locking ring. Is there a knack to it, or will I need to get medieval?
not trackrod ends, the whole thing where it goes into the rack...
They have a smooth dome, and some kind of fancy pressed tin locking ring. Is there a knack to it, or will I need to get medieval?
for ze twingo ? no idea...medieval FTW!
are they not threaded with just a split pin?
threaded yes, no split pin though. The locking thing seems to work a bit like the top on a squash bottle, you know the bit that you have to break off before opening the bottle for the first time.Originally Posted by J$£5GTT
are they not threaded with just a split pin?
Big grips and grab the dome and unscrew, this should break the locking washer up and undo... Can be tight...
what you need is a tool called a steering arm tool which slides over the steering arm all the way over the smooth knuckle partand un does, it has 3 locking pins inside that grips to the steering arm which inturns undoes it
Just to add to refit and if no spare locking washer, just thread lock them in.. Im sure a guy of you driving skill can tell if they ever work lose as your toe will go wacky as hell for a while...
ooh, ooh, ooh, sounds like I get to buy more toolswhat you need is a tool called a steering arm tool which slides over the steering arm all the way over the smooth knuckle partand un does, it has 3 locking pins inside that grips to the steering arm which inturns undoes it
ooh, ooh, ooh, sounds like I get to buy more toolssave your money....
If you weren't so far away you could borrow mine.....
....or you could try one of those old style oil filter tools....the chain ones with a socket attached to it...
lol, how are them large circlip pliers doing you? mine are still aliveooh, ooh, ooh, sounds like I get to buy more tools
only thing with gtt steering arms is there completely smooth other manufacturers have the facilities for you to use a spanner to undo them
almost sounds less hassle an trivial to just replace whole rack..
donor rack...
what I should have done was look at my manual.. see attachments
tbh, I can always weld a couple of blobs onto the old ones to give something to grab them by.
The new arms have got all the locking bits, so no worries there.
The manual shows something to hold the rack in position, is it needed?
The circlip pliers did the job just fine Raj
Haynes.
Hold the thrust washer with grips to prevent the rack turning and unscrew the inner balljoint housing with a small stilson wrench. Remove...
From this I thought it would be straightforward let me know how you get on as ill be doing these soon, please.
took the inner rack joints off my 19 rack at the weekend...
molegrips did the job eeeeaasy
that was a pain in the arse, didn't help that they were loctited as well as having the fancy locking clip thing.
Note that my engine is out, so access is reasonable. My grips weren't really up to it, and I ended up welding lumps onto the boss to give them something to grab hold of.
If I did it again I'd remove the rack and get it in a big vice.
pass the monkey wrench
or pipe grip as some like to call them
a monkey wrench is like an adjustable spanner but closes up and tightens when used in the direction of pulling . ile see if i can find a picky
http://www.thaneeya.com/3s400-daily-painting-a-day.jpg
wahhho i found a picky of a monkey wrench
dam im good
bugger, i found a monkey wench...not quite the same...LOL
That's what they call the "Stilson wrench" in Haynes. (another tool to buy
I like the way the more you lever it , the stronger the bite gets, brilliant
used to have a pic of me standing on the handle of 4 footer, on a 2 inch nut....took my whole weight, and a fair few jumps to crack the nut...
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