lol i know dude, i think the fact im quite vigilant dosent help, if i see a bit of rust i will investigate it with a screwdriver, cant be living with that horrible crap metal attached to my minty paint.
I think a lot of the r5's out there are very rotton, its just that on most its either covered up or not noticied until its far to late.
hmm ive found this on the por 15 website
The fiberglass mat is used to span small rust holes that are too large for the putty but don't necessarily need welding. The hole is covered with the fiberglass mat, which is then soaked in POR 15 paint and allowed to dry. This transforms the flexible fiberglass into a rock-solid chunk of rust-proof flooring. This is a permanent repair, though it's not advisable to consider this a fix for those Fred Flintstone floorpans where there's more open air than sheetmetal; those are more often lost causes.
sounds very promising, so using the por15 as the resin itself rather than fibreglass resin, its an interesting theory but claims its a perm repair... I may have to try this.. 45 mins with the wire brush it is tonight then.. i have a feeling this stuff will work damn well for exactly what i need it for , and once covered in stone chip etc will look good as new.
tonight i cut away the knacked old bumper mount, that had already been welded twice..
then i began lining up the panel made by ashy.. unfortunatly when the bracket was previously replaced the inner peice of steel was largely cut away and therefore it may be difficult to line up the centre holes onto it, however it dosent look far off there.
looking good, those brackets get around
Best thing to do is tack it in place and test fit the bumper before fully welding to get it spot on.... Ipainted all the bare metal before welding mine on and then painted it all again after welding inside and out. Also I used seam sealer around all the joints to ensure no water could get in!
yup, it will be plenty buried in product by the time im done with it.. At the moment ive actually slotted it underneath the panel at the top, would you advise trimming back the panel at the top a little more and butting them up instead.
holes welded up , and currently covered in por 15 (amazing paint) Ill them seam seal and shuts the inner arches
new doors and wings fitted and lined up.
Well update..
I fitted the new bumper brackets, i started with the drivers which i struggled with , however after a bit of time i was solidly fitted..
then onto the passenger i blitzed it no proble,m, very easilly.. on the drivers i actually cut a little to high and have to glass it up slightly.
All the welding and repairs took the following order..
Zinc Etch, por 15, seamsealer, then strone chip...
My opinion on por 15... where you have loose rust/metal its brilliant, however dispite following the instructions on 100% fresh metal , i would avoid as its just so difficult to get it to chemically bond, instead id just stick to a good quality etch primer for this followed by a top coat.
Currently just waiting for seam sealer to set.. a few pics here
Ill be honest currently its feeling a little none stop, Maybe asking for a hand when it comes to puting the car back togther.
Nice work mate just let me know when u need a hand
Looking good mate! Keep at it, there will be light at the end of the tunnel an all the hard work will be worth it.
Excellent work and progress Damian.............motors gonna be solid throughout
When you say the POR-15 wouldn't bond to bear metal.........are you sure the metal wasn't contaminated??
I only ask because when i painted my block, i used the marine clean, then metal ready as they advise....
But when i applied the first coat of Por-15 it didn't take! - So i stripped everything down again.......and PROPERLY!! cleaned and dried the block once more, applied the first coat again- hey presto
Don't get me wrong, you obviously know what your doing, but just bear it in mind - a surface that i originally thought was preped and contaminate free - just wasn't!!
hehe cheers walace, ill be honest theres still areas (back of the inners sills) which need work, however to do them propelly would mean pulling the outers off etc and just simply will mean this car wont be out again this year, which id be pretty upset, so ive sorted the main areas, and this winter ill probably get it on some ramps and have a set of fresh inner sills and any other bad areas sorted.
As for the por 15, i dont think it was contamination, i feel more it was because the metal didnt have a key , was very shiny, where as a engine block is obviously cast so has a fair bit more to bite onto if you, It didnt stick etc, just not really aswell or anywhere near aswell as the rusted areas.
Let me know a weekend when you could do with a hand putting her back together mate n ill see if i can be there n do a bit of the monkey work. Just gimmie a bit of notice and try n make it a warm weekend, im not as hardcore as you!
Originally Posted by djinuk
little update.. I purchased some new bits.
Fresh bottom end, new pistons, liners , oil pump, etc...
new indiactors , grill badges, leads, chrome brackets etc.
Finished stripping the car down and hooked it onto the Aframe to take to bodyshop. dosent it just look at state.
Oh also got hold of a fresh boot lid as mine was showing signs of rust.
Its been a very expensive past couple of weeks.
and masked for storage
It will all be worth it in the end mate. Mines finally getting done after six years. An was in a similar state to yours last nov. If you need any bits just ask cause i got loads left over now im about done.
went down to the bodyshop today..
not started yet ..
popped to the bodyshop on my way back from the dentist.. the screen has been removed and the filler and bodge around the screen ground back, a few holes but far better than i expected.. phew!
Looking good
That's not too bad really, guessing mine will look like that, will you repair it or put a new panel in ?
Lewis
just goings to be welding a couple of bits in matey, defo not worth replacing the panel its actually pretty damn good.. just want it back.
Unfortunatly my bank balance is very bad this month however i had today off work with nothing to do.. so i did the only thing i could do with the fiver in my back pocket, went and got some red engine enamel and gave the block a lick of paint, masked it all up and painted, i really wanted to spray it however the spray engine enamel i got was crap so that went back and i got the brush on, its not gone on to bad but its a bit thin out the can which meant it wanted to either not cover or drip, despite how thin you apply the coats.
Anyway some pics
of the engine
and also a pic of the toy i bought not so long back although not the reason of the scare fundage.
went to see the car yesterday, all the screens been welded up etc, door locks gone, he wasnt happy with the doors , so he took them all the way back to metal and started from the ground up with getting them straight, i told him previously how much i hated seeing ripply r5s considering they are weight boxey 80's spec cars.
Few pics but nothing to special
Just looked thro this thread and I gota say mate good wrk! Alot of time gone into this, would love to see an update?
i forgot what your tungy looked like til just now hah :P its had a bit more progress since last pics aint it? but i think DJ will update you all soon
got quite an issue at min.
Retrim prices on just the rear bench to match the fronts are coming about between £500 and £650.
Im going to shop about a little more but i just cant help think its a bloody lot of wonga, but then again it would finish the car.
then this little devil sat on my shoulder keeps uttering about a pair of decent bucket seats and a harness, but im really just not sure.. grrr.
Any thoughts and opinions.
Buckets & harness's all the way
I know what you mean, just not sure if the car will look complete so to speak afterwards, im not really after the fastest car in the world, nor the meanest track car.. just after a complete all rounder if you catch my drift, although if i could make it look well and turely complete even with a pair of buckets i may be tempted.
Do you ever use the back seats? I know most people dont, i used to but doubt i will in the future (infact the red 5 is going to be stripped & caged)
£500 to have rear seats look the same is alot of money..... I would leave them till last, then decide on what you want... Buckets seam to hold there money atm, where as spending £500 on the rear bench to match will just cost you that... You wont get much of it back if you sold them or sold the car..
i was just about to ask if you actually get use out of the back seats but mr penfold beat me to it
if the answer is no then go for bucket seats etc
thinking im going to get EVERYthing , else done on the car, then look at the interior, its a difficult one.. although im good for buckets, its just hard a feel to make it looks correct and finished, which is really what im after with this car.
I know there is that one tungsten on on the other renault 5 forum who pulled it off really well.
dude.. try this bloke..
kevin jones, company called highlander. he is a motorcycle seat specialist but also does car trim.
number 07977 178 333
i have no clue what hes like for prices as i havent spoke to him myself yet but i have seen some of his work and it really is the dogs.
I will make the call, cheers jamie.
looking very cold and misrable..
began cleaning up the box.
decided to crack on and get some stuff done i could do in the garage.
First off i wire brushed down the reverse side of my water pump (id purchased a new front), the front was no matter how much cleaning it undertook it was never going to look as fresh as the front.
With this in mind i sprayed both the halfs with Halfords VHT. It went on quite well but still rubbed off if u rubbed it hard enough after it cured.. I used a heatgun over the object quite close, usually paint would lift under this treatment. My conclusion is that the paint goes on almost like a powder and require the heating of the object to actually cure.
I messed up the reverse side of the water pump , managed to clean the thread out but using the wrong tap!.. doh..
So had to do another one, also degreased the inlet and a few other bits and started giving them a paint up so its nice and fresh, think im going to grab some vht lacquer as im finding halfords vht paint always seems to scratch of, its stays almost like a powder, strange.
This is realy coming along dj, agree on the buckets to.
When i did my gearbox silver with vht, it to went dusty.
Keep it up
** this is djinuk***
contiued with my work, had a refurbed rack arrive, just remembered that some r5s has suqare drive and some are splined so i just hope mines square but we will see.
Also lackered the inlet and water pump and im happy with the finish now.
Also etch primed a few bits to go black, these will get a gloss black coat followed by some clear coat.
Also popped to the bodyshop, he noticed a tiny ripple in my door when flatting so he put some more filler in , however hes also put sound deadening in to try to strenghten it for when hes sanding to get it 100% flat.. mmmm
finished the inlet, you may notice i have removed some brackets, as hopefull with my water and breather setup i wont require these , leaving a cleaner engine bay.
This is the intended appearance im after on the majority of the build, o/e looking with easy to clean being that its lacquer, also stainless steel fixings where possible.
looking good ****bag! there isnt much left of the original car lol!
finally managed to source an head with plenty of meat on it so i stripped it down, ran a tap down all the threads to check there clean, stripped it down, gave it a good degreaseing and im currently putting it back together with some fresh stem seals, the valve seats all look in very good condition so a quick valve lap and jobs a gudden.
I plan to mask up the head and give it a coat of vht silver and clear coat.. I know i could clean it however being clearcoated will make it far easier to keep clean.
and done.. pleaes note this isnt the rocker cover that will be one, however my chrome one is currently still on the car at the bodyshop.
Continued with the head tonight, fitted new studs with fresh lock-tight as im fed up pulling r5s apart with loos/missing head studs and bolts. Then i fitted up the inlet and the eghaust manifold.
Looking good dude! Really can't wait to see this back in one piece buddy
Looking good, keep at it mate!
Nice work!!
decided to fit the head to the engine yesterday, removed the masking that that id fitted to stop crap getting in it, and it had left a right sticky mess, going to guess it somehow mixed with the assembly lube etc..
Anyway with that all cleaned off.
The head went on.
Also ordered some nor por15 products, these products so far for me have worked beyond belief and in my opinion offer a BETTER soloution to powder coating, purely because the finish is just as hard and strong as powdercoat , however you dont have to reply on the numpty spraying it to do a good job and not leave edges that seem to be prone to chipping away. Saying that im yet to try either of these products from the range but i will report back.
Por-15 is proven dude, you saw the results on my 5 build a few years ago.. and im still using it to this day.
Remeber my other thread though...
Wear gloves or a week later it will still be on you.... Also remember to clean and prep correctly
Yea i saw that.. Over used the basic por 15 , over rust product, however neither of these two. The silver ill be using on the gearbox in the next couple of days most likely so watch this space
Just read through this thread and well done, alot of work in this. Keep posted on the windscreen area and your use with the por 15
No rest for the wkd and all that i missioned on.
Degreased all the box using the POR 15 Marine Clean
Then applied the Metal Ready, this is basically a spray that you allow to etch into the product, now the insructions say to put them on , then wash off... however i spoke to a guy at frost who seemed to really know what he was on about and he said dont wash it offer as it will give it far better adhesion...
Nervous i took his work for it.. here you can see the etch working.
I applied the first coat after giving the pot a good STIR (important not to shake), this paint is silly silly thick its scary.
sources on the net say it brush strokes dissapear.
I really do hope so as this looks terrible.
I have confidence in these products though.
I got bored so gave my oil catch tank a lick of paint.
gearbox is also finished, the finish i would give 8/10, its definatly not as good as the por in black, i put it down to the pigment in the silver seperating, kinda hard to explain but lets say you get a run, they are very noticable because the black sort of seperates from the silver, also its a very matt finish with no gloss at all, i guess thats to resemble a cast alloy though so can be forgiven.. however the finish is rock hard and i certainly not see it flaking off.
1 ctm lightened and balanced fly wheels for the renault 5, previously off markey marks campus drag motor.
also picked up a euro rear light (no horrible white reverse light), i plan to sand out the manufactuer writing and polish these up for a cleaner finish.
I had a strutbrace that had seen better days, and also had some large chips missing, i spoke to dave about welding some metal in to grind down and polish, he explained that welding the metal in wasnt an issue however before polishing it needed dipping to remove the anodised coating..
I felt i had done enough polish for a while with my wheels, and dave offered to sort the lot out for me, i took him up on the offer and im delighted.. , unfortunatly i have no before pics but..
hopefully some nice stainless bolts and washer will hide the bits of damage where they clamed down.
Thanks dave (richards) , much much appreciated
Excellent work there fella, keep up the good work, looking forward to seeing it finished
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