Ohhhhhh...... reallyOriginally Posted by Big Supes
You can't beat the signature sound of a 5.I beg to differ
Ohhhhhh...... reallyYou can't beat the signature sound of a 5.
Hi dudes, slowly getting the bits together for the engine build.
I've got a GT28r, K-Tec FMIC and a uprated fuel pump.... just need to decide what to do with the internals...
So, for around 250bhp, do you think the standard bottom-end internals would be ok?? I don't really want to be rebuilding the engine again in 6 months.
At anything close to that level of power you'll be rebuilding pretty often, take my word for it
it'll be fine in 6 months, as long as the rebuild after 4 has gone OK...I don't really want to be rebuilding the engine again in 6 months.
Hi dudes, slowly getting the bits together for the engine build.
I've got a GT28r, K-Tec FMIC and a uprated fuel pump.... just need to decide what to do with the internals...
So, for around 250bhp, do you think the standard bottom-end internals would be ok?? I don't really want to be rebuilding the engine again in 6 months.
would be making sure your oil pump is up to it too.....
big cam, turbo and 20psi seems to be a winning formula and done quite often.
plus it is suprising how fast that feels.
not to be sniffed at.
im guessing 250 horses from a R5 would be difficult to sustain and even put the power down on the road! let alone how long the gearbox would last.
probably be easier to do with an efi conversion than the carb
Ok, thanks for the input guys.
Do you think forged pistons and steel liners could be the way to go? Also, what sort of power do you guys think the GT28r @ 20psi will push out with this spec:
KTR Level 3 gas flowed head.
285 Cam
Lightened Flywheel.
KTR FMIC
KTR Group A carb
Induction Kit/stainless exhaust
??
One last question...... what is the max power you guys would recommend to sustain a nice and reliable engine?
Thanks
what size 28r ?
It's this one: https://www.rtoc.org/boards/showthread.php?t=7318
It's actually a GT2560R, I called it that to simplify it. It's got the 60trim comp wheel and .64 back end
Ahh, thanks Adam.
Isn't is a good job I know so well what I buy.
I was just happy that it would get the job done.
BTW, Adam... do you post on the SXOC??
Ummm, no
You should, mate. They're a good bunch and there's a ton of info to hand..... all for nada.
You missed the reason for the smileys
I do, but I read more than post. I'm not exactly new to the SR20's anyway, so it's only bits and bobs I need to pick up on.
Ooppss.... lol.My bad.
I spent many hours on there after buying an S13.
There is alot of info, but like most forums, you need to sift through the crap. I've found everything I need to though, i'll see how things go with the A.
Yeah, I don't know a great deal about the SR, apart from the main differences between it and a CA.
Stage 3a seems like a good option.
Regarding the tubby you sold me, would you have any idea as to what sort of boost/power I should run on standard internals, and what sort of power would that make, approx?
I was a little suprised that most of them seem to run mail order ecu's, although there's options for self mapping. It's still a fortune from tuners. I've got another lump, so i'm sure I can build that for about £3k less than a tuner build.
Power wise, I don't know. I ran it at 20psi and it was a bit violent. Cam choice will make a big difference, and that elbow you've got with it will help it spool up too.
If I were you, i'd be looking at other places for a cam, apart from K-tec
just buy my engine! my cam will go very well with your turbo
piper 285 and a standard vent carb. that group A will b a pig to fuel and will probably empty in 4th and 5th gear. please feel free anyone to correct that statement.
stick a standard vent carb on it and have one of the pros drill your carb jets properly for you. Dont be wasting time buying over sized main jets.
scoff set my carb up and it runs 20psi with a T28, FMIC and a piper 285 all on the standard main jet.
pop round fella and take the car out for a test drive. 20psi on the road with that spec is enough and i havent yet had to do a rebuild. i will even drop my LM-1 in so you can see the AFR just to proove it fuels ace with a standard main.
i had one headgasket done but that was due to a water hose bursting and i couldnt stop at the time due to roadworks and traffic...warped the head!
that was nothing to do with performance mods or fueling.
if you want more power then maybe have a second carb set up for 25psi and use that for the strip. as i doubt it would be reliable for daily/weekly road use.
then wen it comes to play time o nthe strip...plug n play the carb and have a bleed valve setup to swap between 20 and 25psi.
Yeah, I think it's all down to price. A tried and tested Jez map seems to be a simple and cheaper way to go for someone who just wants to up the power to a desired level with relative ease.
Ok, cool. Yeah, I can imagine 20psi from that tubby will be slightly different from what my old T2 delivered.Power wise, I don't know. I ran it at 20psi and it was a bit violent. Cam choice will make a big difference, and that elbow you've got with it will help it spool up too.
If I were you, i'd be looking at other places for a cam, apart from K-tec
Any recommendations on sourcing the cam?
Thanks for the offer, but I'm looking forward to getting mine stripped and rebuilt.just buy my engine! my cam will go very well with your turbo
Only if you were closer, Maka.piper 285 and a standard vent carb. that group A will b a pig to fuel and will probably empty in 4th and 5th gear. please feel free anyone to correct that statement.
stick a standard vent carb on it and have one of the pros drill your carb jets properly for you. Dont be wasting time buying over sized main jets.
scoff set my carb up and it runs 20psi with a T28, FMIC and a piper 285 all on the standard main jet.
pop round fella and take the car out for a test drive. 20psi on the road with that spec is enough and i havent yet had to do a rebuild. i will even drop my LM-1 in so you can see the AFR just to proove it fuels ace with a standard main.
i had one headgasket done but that was due to a water hose bursting and i couldnt stop at the time due to roadworks and traffic...warped the head!
that was nothing to do with performance mods or fueling.
if you want more power then maybe have a second carb set up for 25psi and use that for the strip. as i doubt it would be reliable for daily/weekly road use.
then wen it comes to play time o nthe strip...plug n play the carb and have a bleed valve setup to swap between 20 and 25psi.
Yeah, I'm slowly gathering that the group A carbs don't really cut the mustard, I'll definitely take your advise with going back to the standard and getting it drilled.
Looks like it's time to get the bigger cam.... although, I'm starting to think I need to double check my reciept from K-Tec as may already have the 285 cam on there.
i had a group A carb with a 28mm vent long time ago.
with a 150 main jet and a 0.9 air corrector at 16psi it ran lean 16:1 afrs
i was pursuaded to use a standard carb, a the time i was i nthe mind set that becuase it was an uprated group A id loose power if i took it off etc.
what a load of **** thinking like that was.
standard carb set up right = trouble free boosting, for fueling anyway.
becareful your wheels dont fly off (coops muwhaha) or bodykit parts dont fly into nearby hedges.
i lost my spoiler at 20psi on a country road, boot lid opened, doors opened, lost a wing mirror glass, blew the ir filter off with compressor surge.
tie wraps solved all the problems (just kidding)
cars solid nowadays
LOL I've bought some new sideskirt clips as it's they're a bit suspect.
The group A carb seems to be ok at 20psi with my T2. On boost it pulls pretty hard with no pinking. I'll still be taking your advice though and going back to the standard carb.
Ok, so it looks like I'll be going with steel liners, standard pistons, gas flowed head, 285 cam, a magic standard carb, and a K-Tec FMIC.
Any ideas what sort of boost I will be able to run?
The reason I ask is because, if it's no more than 20 psi, my K-tec double core jobby worked just fine at 20 psi.
In other words, the opposite of what was reccomended
Darn....
I was of the understanding that the standard pistons and rods will do fine.... maybe even the liners, but if anything goes up the pod, it's usually the liners.
What's your recommendation, Scoff?
steel pistonsIn other words, the opposite of what was reccomended
Ah, you have to think of it from a different angle! Liners fail at santa pod because the engine wasn't tuned properly, or something failed that ment the tune turned bad. They didn't break because they were not strong enough to handle the power. Make them stronger and you no longer have a safety net, or fuse in the system. If you were to put steel liners into the same engine and run with the same crap tune then the pistons would probably melt instead, they're next in line for attack from detonation.
Keep the tune right and a) you'll make more power and b) you won't need fancy liners.
What mart was getting at on page 1 is that all being well (the tune) the pistons are the first weakest link. Ring lands break free or in my case gudgeon pins failed. They're still pretty tough buggers though, they will deal with a little over 200hp pretty well.
EDIT: hadn't seen last post.
Gotcha. Leaning out would more than likely cause melt down/liners failing.
Sweet. What's your thoughts on running around 215/230bhp (with the right tune)?
Keep the tune right and a) you'll make more power and b) you won't need fancy liners.
What mart was getting at on page 1 is that all being well (the tune) the pistons are the first weakest link. Ring lands break free or in my case gudgeon pins failed. They're still pretty tough buggers though, they will deal with a little over 200hp pretty well.
I'd say you could keep standard pistons and liners, just pay good attention to the tuning.
Oki doki.
Rob@backyardracing mentioned getting the piston crowns machined in relation to my head hight measures (if its been skimmed alot before).... do you know anyone 'in the know' who could do this as per power expectations?
What on earth is a group A dump valve?, makes me laugh all theis level 20 head and level 35 engine complete BS if you ask me why not say the head hjad had this or that done, these tuners put a massive smile on my face with there quotes, change a single bolt must be level 1 then PMSL.
It's just what's on the receipt buddy.
Must be a stronger spring lolIt's just what's on the receipt buddy.
Maybe their stores are categorised into sections: N and A.
"Where'd you get that Dump Valve from nipper?"......
"Aisle 'A', boss".
Does anyone have any thoughts on BB pistons and liners??
Considering buying this engine for the bottem-end and then selling for the top half: http://rtoc.co.uk/boards/showthread.php?t=9708
Hi dudes, slowly getting the bits together for the engine build.
I've got a GT28r, K-Tec FMIC and a uprated fuel pump.... just need to decide what to do with the internals...
So, for around 250bhp, do you think the standard bottom-end internals would be ok?? I don't really want to be rebuilding the engine again in 6 months.
I think you need to forget all these fancy parts for the bottom end and build some thing with o.e parts with a few tweeks here and there. As mentioned already a five with 20psi mainfold from a t28 will be quick enough for most. I run 21psi fannymold all with o.e bottom end drove to pod did runs in it all day in the low thirteens on road tyres and then drove all the way home without any problems. Spend the money on some decent wide band kit
they're standard, what thoughts do you have about them?
steel pistons
ooooooocome on give him a day at least before the steel talk
only kiding
nobody mention pistons, I mentioned them once but I think I got away with itooooooo
My only thought is that they might aswell have been called Group A pistons.
Trust me, mate... I would love to forget all these fancy parts and just go with the standard internals. I just don't want to be limited to what other people think is the ideal power limit.I think you need to forget all these fancy parts for the bottom end and build some thing with o.e parts with a few tweeks here and there. As mentioned already a five with 20psi mainfold from a t28 will be quick enough for most. I run 21psi fannymold all with o.e bottom end drove to pod did runs in it all day in the low thirteens on road tyres and then drove all the way home without any problems. Spend the money on some decent wide band kit
Fit some well known brand forged piston into new standard liners and build yourself a good but otherwise standard bottom end. That will do fine for whatever you want to do.
It isn't so much that you'll be held back by what the internals can handle but rarther you'll find it very hard to make much more than 230hp (not a criticism by the way, just that everybody does). It takes a lot of trial and error to find ways of making much more than that.
Thanks, Scoff.
I may look at standard pistons, liners, but forged ringlands, then aim for around 230 max bhp......
Do you think the bottom-end of this engine would be up to what I want?
http://rtoc.co.uk/boards/showthread.php?t=9708
id like to try a bigger turbo on mine at some stage , to really test the internals , im actually feeling now i shouldve went for a bigger turbo to start with ,i seem to be on the limits of this t25 running 28psi and making 230@wheels ,is this good power for the turbo size? compaired to say others running t25's
Are you running standard internals?
EDIT: Just looked at your profile.
Ring lands are part of the piston. Yes bottom end looks fine to me.
Ahh... so it's the area between the rings?
Ok, I may go with that engine and save myself some time with mine.
Thanks for the help and advice.
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