Good idea that
Good idea that
Originally Posted by Andrew Cooke
sounds a bit like my turbo support stick, and alternator tensioner
Are your joints all steel, or with PTFE liners?
All steel, got any pics of your alt tensioner, it'd be interestin to see how you did compared to how I was plannin on doing it
#252 in my build
https://www.rtoc.org/boards/showthread.php?t=5149&page=6
took the 5 for mapping today it went well, until a few issues came up
the first being it seems the valves arn't sealing properly when they close, a reseat of the valves should sort that.
Second we checked the valve lift and each lobe came up different, infact they inlet valve lift varried by upto 2mm and the exhaust by upto 3mm, sounds like its eating itself to me, I have 2 standard cams in my shed so 1 of those should sort it.
Third being the main problem, although we got 19psi out of the turbo, for some reason the vnt didn't adjust, I'm thinking the actuator is fooked.
you're going to run full efi and a VNT with a standard camshaft ? that would be an astronomical waste
there are a few good reasons
1. I have the cam already
2. The highlift I was using never did make much of a difference
3. I'm in the process of buying my first house so I can't afford to keep throwing money at it, I will have make the best with what I have
you're going to run full efi and a VNT with a standard camshaft ? that would be an astronomical waste
mine is a vnt on a std cam
oli, you'll have to make me an offer i can't refuse on my naughty cam
A mars bar and a packet of ready salted crispsoli, you'll have to make me an offer i can't refuse on my naughty cam
make it salt and vinegar and i'll let you touch it x
deal
Went to a pub meet of a local forum today but before I went I had a play about with the actuator but didn't have a chance to try it until I was on the way home.
Feck me Mr Sulu!!! did you just hit the warp speed button!!!
it got to 3000rpm and I got 12psi of boost with the vanes turned and feck me did it go like an utter ****
I think I'm onto somit, I had used a bleed valve to get the vnt to increase boost beyond the factory 10psi but used the external wastegate to control it but the moment I closed off the bleed valve as if it wasn't there I got me boost back
1 of the other issues I had on the dyno was the leak down test showing no. 1 & 2 loosing alot of pressure, since the only things I haven't down that would account for this area valve reseating and valve guides I've had a word with my local machine shop, basically it'd be 48quid to reseat the valves and fit the guides, the guides would cost between 4 and 9quid each, just need to find out what there made of, anyone know?
just read this whole thread
an wow uve had some problems, think yr on par with me lol
keep it up any more power figures and graphs yet
metal...
randalls can do bronze guides for about £8 each fitted last time i checked
Last edited by markey b; 15-09-2009 at 15:34. Reason: removed the 'lol'
Helpfull as ever Butterworthmetal...
randalls can do bronze guides for about £8 each fitted last time i checked
LOL
ay up turkish boy...feelin licky??.....
On saturday I decided to pull my finger out and get on with tweaking the boost control settings, so out came my laptop, exstension lead and my desktop monitor (the laptop battery died long ago and now the screen has packed up) a few clicks and I saved all of Dave's latest mapping efforts and then I began tweaking the settings.
The boost was being held back till about 3250rpm so I set the solinoid to open fully so I could see what the turbo would do, saved it and and went for a blat, spent 10mins getting everything nicely warmed up and then flicked the map switch and planted it.............. and then quciklyknocked it into neutral and got ready to cry
It revved up but didn't accelerate, only made a nasty grinding noise then seemed to go but started missfiring, I flicked the map switch back to 7psi I drove home but every time I got it on boost it started missfiring again
In dispair I parked up and went inside for a beer or 3
Sunday morning I decided to have a look at the damage but couldn't find anything, so I figured I'd killed a spark plug and went to remove the first plug cap which fell to bits in my hand, so do the next 1, the other 2 had nasty looking cracks in them (I should explain I was using solid phenolic supressed plug caps which had a 10k ohm resistor inside to help block any electrical noise), with a local pub meet fast approching I got desperate and got an old set of HT leads and robbed the rubber boots and together with a spare set of plug terminals, I replaced the plug caps and crossed my fingers hoping they'd work.
Well bugger me if they didn't work but also work better than the plug caps, it now idles smoother, picks up from idle much better, revs more freely and drives alot more smoothly, why the feck didn't I do this sooner
Oh well, leason learnt, took it out for a short blast last night to try again, didn't quite get the results I wanted and started heading home, till some ****er in an audi A3 thought he'd sit 2inches off my back bumper, so I let him past, flicked the map switch and planted it, feck me it went like a stabbed rat, just had to remember to wave to the ****er as I sailed by
It did start to lean out higher up the rev range and the boost did start to creep but thats only cus the wastegate was being held shut by the solinoid and was letting the VNT's actuator do the boost control.
This weekend with some help from MarkyB I'm hoping I can get the settings correct so the boost doesn't creep anymore and richen up the mixture so the head stays in contact with the block.
good stuff oli,keep at it fella!!!
Really do need to get the passenger side CV boot replaced, its not got any holes in it but keeps letting the grease out, a quick blob of cv grease and all is well again for another month
Really do need to get the passenger side CV boot replaced, its not got any holes in it but keeps letting the grease out, a quick blob of cv grease and all is well again for another month
zip tie..
Done that 3 or 4 times, didn't workzip tie..
stainless tie, thats what renault use from the factory, a plastic one will never go tight enough
I know this but haven't had the time to get it done
Fecking A, I got the screen on my laptop working again, this means all I need to do is get a working battery and I can do mapping on fly
you want something like this:
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Car-Power-Inve...d=p3286.c0.m14
I had a 150w inverter but the laptop killed it so I got a 300w invertor, only problem with it, is that it connects direct on to the battery terminals, not idel when driving along with someone in the passnger seat tweaking settings.
I could wire a cig plug on the end but I'm too lazy lol, besides I want a laptop that works with putting a drain on the car in any way.
Couldn't be arsed to get another battery for me laptop so I hooked up my inverter as Mr Cooke said and went and done some testing this morning, I've got the boost to sit around 11 - 12psi all the way round to the 6grand limit (7 when it goes for proper mapping) also got the fueling to sit near enough perfect aswell but there is one major problem with this new boost setting
I need new underwarefeck me it took off like a stabbed rat and showed no signs of slowing down at 130
just spotted this. As far as I know, not all standard cams are the same, check the lobe lift on the ones you have, the best I've measured is 5.6mm.
I have the original cam that this engine left the factory with, bearly had 60,000miles on it when I took it out
but how much goodness does it contain?
https://www.rtoc.org/cam/?cam=std+GTT...vance=0&vc=0.2
Looked mint when I oil and bagged it.
Seems the extra power is showing up another problem, the clutch is whats making the grinding noise, I recon the centre splines are on the way out, an annoyed phone call on monday it is then
at least puttin the stabilser bar in means that its gonna be clutch or diff, my money is on the clutch centre plate
I'll find out today when I strip it down, it let go on the way home last night, glad I'd stripped the car, was hard enough pushing it for a mile, a full fat r5 woulda been a killer
Got the box and clutch out this morning and the splines fooked, so I spent the rest of the day mopping MarkyB's raider, damn that was hard work, was never gunna look great, the thing is every panel painted in every different shade of raider blue
cheers boyo! your hard graft will be rewarded as i'll order a clutch 2mora and you get free 'deliver and fit' lolGot the box and clutch out this morning and the splines fooked, so I spent the rest of the day mopping MarkyB's raider, damn that was hard work, was never gunna look great, the thing is every panel painted in every different shade of raider blue
cheers bud
Damn no forward gears but I have reverse, sounds like a linkage problem but that was a ok before hand, oh well, further investigation required then
Bloody hell, I'm knackered, I've not had a day off work in 2 weeks and still have another week to go and hopefully moving house at the weekend and yet I just spent the last 4 hours taking out my old gearbox and fitting the new...... ish gearbox.
Its not completely back together but another hour would see it done, I would've finished it tonight but I've run out of light and my roast dinner is nearly ready so it can wait till mid week.
Its not completely back together but another hour would see it done, I would've finished it tonight but I've run out of light and my roast dinner is nearly ready so it can wait till mid week.[/quote]
No excuse, get out there with a floodlight and finish it
No excuse, get out there with a floodlight and finish it
I will but not tonight, to tired
I've finally got the time to finish putting the 5 back together and the results ain't good, the gearbox cleaned up a treat and looks great and it went in so easy but it went abit wrong when it came to the testing
For MarkyB's quater mile time, its gunna get an even bigger whooping, the old girl lives again
There's a few small details to sort but the main thing is it works but I can now get on with making it go fast and that should be fairly easy
Good work oli.
I had the same problem with one of my boxes, clutch was slipping so parked it up on driveway, whipped the engine/box out changed clutch, stuck it all back in same day and low and behold, reverse worked fine just couldn't go forward, wouldn't engage any gears.
Never did find out why, swapped it for a spare, it took it's place in the shed with the intention of having it looked at to find the problem but never did, got taken away in the back of a car I scrapped, if you find out why post it up as would be interesting to kno. I did ask the wizard, I think he wasas said I had put the clutch plate on back to front
is should hope so, but you'll never have as much torque ah ha ha ha!For MarkyB's quater mile time, its gunna get an even bigger whooping, the old girl lives again
I've had a volt meter mounted in my dash where the old digi clock used to be but it never matched any of the other gauges I have and now its given up and died, so I decided to sort out somit different, now instead of going out and buying a new gauge I decided to box clever and pulled an old battery terminal out of my garage, it has a built in digi volt meter, I'd still be using it if the terminals didn't strip there threads. Anyway I decided to take the meter out and mount it in a plate so I can have it on the dash.
First off here's the old terminal
The meter removed from the terminal
I tapped the screw holes which also act as the live terminal to 3.5mm so some socket front screws would fit, next up I made a live lead and connected it to the gauge using the mounting screws
Next I got an old neon control box and removed the lid and marked where I need to cut
After drilling out a series of tiny holes and popped out the centre bit and got going with a file to smooth the edges
The finished product, now the mount is only a temp to see if it would work, eventually I'm going to make a new mounting plate out of carbon fibre
I did test it on an old battery but that was nearly flat and the led display didn't show up
Right next up I've had a crack at the heater control panel on my dash, I've had a stainless steel plate over the top for ages which allowed for a 52mm gauge inplace of the digi clock but now I wanted something different so I took the old stainless panel out and got some off cuts of carbon fibre.
First off here's the old panel
A nice shiney bit of carbon
A quick mask up and place the old panel over the top and draw round it
Some carefull cutting with a hacksaw
Next using a dremil I've cut out the fan switch and heater temp and direction knobs
Now again with the dremil I've cout the holes for the new volt meter
The finished articul, looks so much better than the old job and cost me nothing but time
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