After I managed to break the cap on my bailey header tank the Friday before national day I've been trying to get a new one and it turns out there ruddy exspensive
So I ordered one of Shakal's OE jobs with a blue cap, gotta say awesome part fella, does the job perfectly and the fitment is spot on, nice work dude
bailey cap is a ford cap dude, about £4 from motorspares
C**KOriginally Posted by markey b
bailey cap is a ford cap dude, about £4 from motorspares
u penis... next time.... let me know ur problems and i'll sort them! haha
I did........ Doesn't matter, I was getting board of how tatty it was looking anyway
Time for a couple of upgrades
first off the cooling system needed attention, the clip rad was ok for the T28 turbo but the GT3071r being roller bearing relies on coolant more than oil so my temps were up a worrying amount so it was time for a change
1 alloy golf gti rad and a pair of 7" fans
A pair a piper verniers which I'll fit next time I pull the belt off which shouldn't be long from now
Nice one mate! Looks like the gti rad will be up to the job!
For what gti is it, 2?
Maybe a good one for my 5....
Yeah I nicked the idea off JP, he's got 1 of these rad with a single 10" fan and it cools perfectly. This is the 430x323x40 core job.
Here's the eBay no. for it
221046620636
Finally sorted the over heating issue, turns out the stat was shot, 4quid at motorspares and a new stat see's 89-90c running temps damn near in the 70's with the fans on
Easy fixFinally sorted the over heating issue, turns out the stat was shot, 4quid at motorspares and a new stat see's 89-90c running temps damn near in the 70's with the fans on
Got a stinking cold so doing naff all on the car but got board so I broke out the rattle cans and er, well, see for self.
Not much replies! Are they on yet?
And how's the Kinugawa actuator doing? I'm consideringbuying one too for my new spec..
Not yet, I'm building up a stack of parts to fit in one go, so far I've got
Cam pullies
Cams
560cc injectors
PTFE inlet manifold gasket
Still need
Cambelt
Camshaft oil seals
Oil filter
Oil
Time
Money
Patience
My actuator is forge job, the turbine housing is a Kinuagwa job and so far is working perfectly
what cams do you have mate?
Stock valver items, turns out they have more lift than standard megane items and less overlap, ok not perfect as there still designed for a non turbo application, Williams cams would probably be better but they cost a fortune and these cost me 35quid so they'll do just fine.
Clio Williams cams sell for about £50 thats what I paid for mine
How long ago was that? I can't find any under 150quid
About a month ago, I will find the other person who was offering one on my post for same price for you
http://williamsclio.co.uk/forum/show...a-valver-turbo
Matty W has one with a williams head, worth seeing if he has still got them, but £50 is about the going rate for them.
Well I've done bugger all to the 5 apart from ordering parts for months so its time I got something done.
First off I've removed the inlet manifold, cleaned all the sealing paste off and fitted the PTFE inlet gasket.
Second I removed the cams so I could measure and compare them to the valver cams I have and the result is.......... Next to bugger all difference in lift and duration :/
Oh well the stock megane cams have gone back in for now until I can get hold of some Williams jobs.
Finally had enough of the problems I'm having with the ecu loom so I've ripped it out so I can start again and a good job I did, I found so many faults its scary, the worst I found so far was a live wire from the new fuel pump relay which had been taken to the OE relay position and then pushed into the terminal without any sort of spade crimp on the endwhy oh why did I trust someone else to do make the loom
Here's the new flying loom including cam sensor wiring, 8 injector plugs, coil pack plug, 2x 3pin connectors and 10metres of loom covering and 3 relay bases.
Crikey someone made that loom for youI enjoy doing electrics, haven't got a clue what I'm doing mind
I told the guy to wait till he had the car so he could see where everything was going before making the loom but he didn't and went ahead and made the loom anyway and ended up having to extend every wire :/ I later started having issues with the coil pack and injectors, turns out he looped the wires together and then introduced them to the solder and a bit of of tape, but didn't stagger the joints so when the tape fell off the joints were shorting out on each other :/ to date I've cut 15 joints out of this loom but I've had enough of trying to sort it and starting from scratchCrikey someone made that loom for you
Spent abit of time going through the old loom seeing what I had and what wiring I needed to add to the new loom when I came across a choice
do I wire the 4 injectors for sequential firing or do I wire for the possibility of 8 injectors batch fired if I feel the need for more power at a later date?
Opinions please
Had a couple of hours to kill tonight so I've started to assemble the loom, first off the mount for the relays, the old loom had 2, the new has 5. The old setup should of had 1 for the fuel pump, 1 for the injectors and coil and 1 for the idle valve and boost solinoid, but had been wired wrong so the fuel pump and injectors were grouped together and the coil, solenoid and valve were together
So my new setup will be:-
Relay 1 fuel pump
Relay 2 injectors (on there own as I've wired for 8 injectors)
Relay 3 ignition coil
Relay 4 boost solenoid and idle valve
Relay 5 ecu supply (the old ecu supply seemed to drop off abit under heavy load, not good)
This is the flying loom with every wire needed finally in place, just need to route and measure so they can be cut and made off
good work mr stanley
Wish i could muster the effort to make a new loom.... top job for doing it
In my case it's more of nacessaty rather than a nicety :/Wish i could muster the effort to make a new loom.... top job for doing it
Why so many relays? IMO your complicating things and it'll go wrong
There are severale reasons
Relay 1 is for the fuel pump, self explanatory really as the ecu only runs the fuel pump if the engine is turning so in the event of a crash and the engine stops fuel doesn't keep getting forced up the lines.
Relay 2 is for the injector supply, normally emerald say this should go on the same relay as the coil pack on 4 cyclinder engines but since I'm going to be running a second set of injectors later on it made sense to split them.
Relay 3 is for the coil and I'd prefer to have the maximum power potential for the coil pack to guarantee a strong spark.
Relay 4 is for the boost control solenoid and idle control valve, these being together isn't a problem as neither will be in use at the same time, the emerald system calls for both to have an ignition live and it's easier adding another relay than chopping the OE loom more than it already has.
Relay 5 is the ecu supply, as I mentioned before the ignition live that had been used before wasn't a very good one, it was the OE supply for the AEI module but the ECU requires a bit more juice than the AEI did and I did find the ECU was experincing a voltage drop off under heavy load and again emerald do surguest that older cars converted to run an ECU might require an additional relay.
Yes more relays might be more complicated but if I have any problems it'll be easier to narrow down the problem as everything is seperate so instead of losing everything if a relay goes down I only loose 1 componante
Sorry Oli - I'm with Dave on this, It might look pretty and 'Back to the future but I would say generally unnecessary. KISS - Keep It Simple Stupid!
Fair enough mate, I was just pointing out its alot of unnecessary work, but then I'm not familiar with emerald, and if they suggest it then better to stick with what they say..
O btw, make sure you mount the fuel pump relay a close as you can to the fuel pump, or you might suffer volt drop.. Also you run a relay for the f/p due to the current draw it requires to run, other wise you would need like 16 gauge cable to stop the volt drop, in fact that's why u use relay's, hence why I said it seems a lot of work as the other ciricuits don't have high current draw..
I will however add, it won't hurt anything to run them
On relay 2 when I said split them I meant split the feed to the injectors and coil pack to seperate relays so I a have the coil on 1 and the feed for 8 injectors on the other.
On relay 3 the emerald instructions call for the coil to be on a relay so that's what I've done, don't know if the fact it's a wasted spark coil pack compared to the factory single coil and dizzy setup makes any difference.
On relay 3 again the emerald instructions calls for a relay live for both the boost solenoid and idle control valve, before they had been tacked onto the coil pack relay.
Believe me I'm keeping it simple compared to the spiders web of wires the old loom was, everything will be laid out neatly and everything labeled so its easterly identified in hurry if need be.
I'm using a nice heavy gauge wire to feed the fuel pump, the relay will be in the glove box along with the rest.Fair enough mate, I was just pointing out its alot of unnecessary work, but then I'm not familiar with emerald, and if they suggest it then better to stick with what they say..
O btw, make sure you mount the fuel pump relay a close as you can to the fuel pump, or you might suffer volt drop.. Also you run a relay for the f/p due to the current draw it requires to run, other wise you would need like 16 gauge cable to stop the volt drop, in fact that's why u use relay's, hence why I said it seems a lot of work as the other ciricuits don't have high current draw..
I will however add, it won't hurt anything to run them
I've not looked properly at the OE wiring size but the relay for that is behind the glove box, don't know if its different on a ph2 maybe?
For the labelling of the loom, I printed small labels then put some clear heatshrink over them by the connectors so you know what goes where.
As for relays. I've rewired my whole car and everything is fused and relayed.
I'm doing the same thing, yellow heat shrink to write on then clear shrink over the top
The loom is coming together nicely, the bulk of the loom passes from the glovebox, through the scuttle area and into the engine bay in 20mm plastic wiring conduit. From there it'll spy dee off to the various plugs in braided sleveing. It's all measure up so I've taken in back out and into the house to make off all the ends before offering it back up to measure wiring to the battery, fuel pump, tacho signal, ignition live and shift light wiring
Been at it since 5 when I got in from work and its now midnight but the main loom is complete, all the plugs fitted, sleveing on, heat shrink on and labels done, looks 100 times better than the old loom.
Just need to refit it to the car, connect the map switch wiring, route the wiring to the fuel pump, route the wiring to the battery and ignition and make up the new injector loom.
Looks great.... very OE
I dunno about that but it won't stand out as much as the loom did, the old loom most of it passed along the gearbox end of the cam cover, the new loom is all together in the conduit down from the scuttle and across the top of the gearbox before popping up near the lifting eyeLooks great.... very OE
Good job.
That sir looks like excellent work, well done.
Cheers guys
Got the main loom fitted to the car and all the battery + & - and ignition lives routed into the scuttle area ready for final connection.
Got the new injector loom made up to, surprisingly it was harder to get right than the main loom :/
Very nicely done Ol, very nice.
Another night and more progress, got the injector loom fitted, finished tidying up the wiring in the scuttle area and connecting the battery feed, negative and ignition live to the new ecu loom, it all looks so much tidier now
Unforunatly the battery is flat and the starter motor doesn't want to play so the first start up will have to wait abit longer.
The battery isolation switch has a new stealth mount, thought it was a good idea for it to be fixed to something instead of just sitting in the scuttle area, I've mounted it so its just underneath the scuttle cover with a hole in it so the key sticks through the cover.
The new oil catch can is fitted and new oil breather pipes fitted, its only a cheap ebay can but it cant be any worse than the piece of crap i had before which because it's flawed designed the vapours including any oil came straight back out again instead of being caught in the can.
The washer jet bottle is now mounted in the boot, why you ask, well since the F7R went in the car has been nose heavy and the back in very lite so it's become auite tail happy, so along with the battery the washer jet bottle is now in the boot to try to get the weight balance abit better, since I don't have a rear wiper I linked both pumps together to feed the front washers for that little bit extra flow.
For those that want to see how the washer bottle is in the back, here you go
Next time you're down the scrap yard have a look at the vw polos washer bottles, they're rectangular and slide onto a bracket which you can also steal and pop rivet up out of the way, they're very similar to what Ross uses, if you've seen his
Been busy Ol, is there still room to kip in the car for ND?
Wtf are the wires running off the batt out the boot lol!
Them washer bottles are so rank lol
Noted, thanks fella
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