High Capacity Oil Pump

[Woznaldo]

Those of you that have seen my project thread will know I've been looking at a higher capacity Oil Pump. The reason for this is because I am running a Remote Oil Filter and Oil Cooler. I also want to fit some under Piston Oil Spray Jets and would like the extra capacity for piece of mind.

Some may argue that a good condition OEM Oil Pump will be more than up to the task, but I'm also finding that many people are using uprated Oil Pumps on other cars in Renaults range that use a version of the Cleon engine.

A started looking quite a while back and initially found a High Capacity Oil Pump (or Pompe a Huile Gros Debit (Pump Oil Big Delivery for the littoral translation)) made by an R8 Gordini and R5 T2 specialist called Keops Racing, but they don't have a website. What they do have is a new larger Oil Pump Body casting that utilises the Alpine A110 Oil Pump Vein and Rotor.

I also found a thread on a French forum where a guy used the OEM GT Turbo Oil Pump Body with a spacer. Here's a pic that illustrates the Vein size difference:



The GT Turbo on the right and the A110 on the left. The GT Turbo Vein is 26mm tall, while the A110 is 31mm tall. Therefore, if going for the spacer route, it needs to be 5mm thick. The obvious problem is ensuring the spacer is concentric with the Pump Body. The French dude on the forum got this advice from other forum users, but nobody explain how to fix this. What I would do is sleeve the four Pump Body clamp bolt holes. This would then keep the spacer firmly in place.

I'll get some more pics up when my photobucket account stops having a hissy fit.

[Woznaldo]

His a pic of the parts laid out for the conversion:

[Matt Cole]

Wow, I think that's excellent! So i guess this is a flow and pressure improvement? At a guess, this would give you roughly 64% improve give or take losses delivered by the pump?

[Tutuur]

Nice finding mate, should get you going!

[Corty]

LOOKING GOOD - could you not get the spacer plate to mimic the plate its sitting on ?
eg - cnc mill or lazer cut ? then pin it ,
im not 100% sure where the spacer sits but it dosent look like it wouldnt be a hard job with the right tooling

[Woznaldo]

The spacer plate sits between the Pump Body and the Strainer Assy. Here's a few more pics:







I would take it to a machine shop to have it done properly.

[Corty]

anymore update on this?

[Sparkie]

have you fitted it to an engine yet to see if the sump still fits?

[Tutuur]

Winwin, fit a girdle and and the sump would be spaced too

[Woznaldo]

I've just got an invoice from Mecaparts for Vane and Rotor. As soon as I've paid they will send it and I'll then speak to the Machine Shop I'm using as to the best approach to this problem.

I've tried to get in contact with the company that makes the new cast Pump Body, but I've had no response yet. My guess is the price might be quite high for that option anyway.

If the Machine shop gives my a ridiculous quote, then it's back to square one!....

[Woznaldo]

Just to keep you lot off my back I made the purchase!

[Woznaldo]

Vane and Rotor have arrived. I will speak to the Machine Shop that have done my Block and Crank to see if they can help me get this idea up and running.

I've got a couple of ideas on how to make this work with the pros and cons of each.

• Fit a sleeve in two of the bolt holes of the Pump Body and the Spacer Plate. This will lock the alignment to ensure the pump turns smoothly. This is probably the cheapest and most simple solution. The spacer plate would need to be machined to ensure flatness.
• Fit a sleeve between the Pump Body and Spacer Plate for the main Vane and Rotor bore. This would ensure the best seal for the Vane and Rotor, and would create the perfect alignment. The downside would be the expense? I have no idea what it would cost. If there is some tubing close to the dimensions it might not be as expensive as I think. The sleeve would need to be made of steel and then we have thermal expansion rates to think about?...

Either way I will report back on which way I've gone.


I haven't done a trial fit yet so don't know about the available space, but I could machine the mounting face of the Strainer part of the body to gain a mm or two?

[Tutuur]

Personally i think it doesn't need to be that precise. I would machine the hole in the spacer just a tiny bit bigger and keep the bolt holes tight so the bolts will keep the spacer centered.

The rotor will have enough body to run on since the old one did too.

Btw, even if you don't sleeve the holes the plate will be centered by the rotor, once you've tightened the bolt the spacer is clamped between two halfes so i wouldn't worry too much tbh

[Matty]

We machine and modify a lot of oil pump at my work.

If I understand this correctly, you are basically trying to lincrease the body length to incorporate the higher gear? If it's not possible to bore the housing out deeper on a lathe, then I would bore the housing out larger, machine a top hat insert up either out of aluminium or if it's going to be a thin wall, bronze. Leave it long and slightly under size on the bore, make this an interference fit with the body, and press it in. You can then, put it on a lathe clock both axis, and bore and face together so they are perfectly square. That way nothing will nip up when you tighten the cover down.

[Woznaldo]

Matty/Tutuur, thanks for the feedback. I'll mention the brass liner to the machine shop and see how they see it?

It will all come down to cost in the end.