Nope i didn't know that! and I forgot LEDs are polarity concious!Originally Posted by markg
Just seen on the back and there is a tiny + - sign. I'll stick to building engines! Lol
I've refitted a new clutch cable too over the weekend, and made no difference. The cable I removed was a genuine one too, so I have now ordered a new ratchet mech as the white part does look slightly worn on the teeth.
Well a few more bits done. My stainless battery tray is nearly done, clutch ratchet arrived yesterday, so job for tomorrow...fingers crossed it sorts the clutch!then it can go in for an mot. Badges have been blasted and repainted correct colour.
Last edited by Matty; 08-09-2014 at 21:05.
Well that's the battery tray done.Mot booked for Saturday, so fingers crossed!
Last edited by Matty; 10-09-2014 at 19:26.
I thought I'd better was off the oily finger prints before the mot. It's scrubbed up well.
Last edited by Matty; 13-09-2014 at 06:53.
Top job on the battery tray
How did you get the GTT upside-down?
Thanks, I thought it was worth doing while the dashboard was out, I've turned the clamp round now too?
How'd you mean upside down? Are the pics showing upside down?
Yessum.
They're the right way up on my screen....hmmm not sure what's going on there?
Weird!
Anyone else seeing Matty's car the wrong way up?
I think the last four pics are upside down, unless he's hanging above his workgroup to take a picture
How did you get the badges painted? I need to do a set for mine.
haha, I've just looked on my phone and they are upside on that...strange!
To paint the badge I shot blasted the old paint off, etch primed, then painted body colour (4 coats) The red and black was painted on by hand and left to dry over night, and then any edges were cleaned up using wet dry dry.
When removing the paint on the renault part, it looks like it was originally all painted black, then white over the top, then the tips of the letters flatted back to black. It would probably be easier this way.
Thanks. That's great.
Yeh, that's what I was thinking if doing to be honest.When removing the paint on the renault part, it looks like it was originally all painted black, then white over the top, then the tips of the letters flatted back to black. It would probably be easier this way.
Well I've had my 5 on the road for the past week now, and needless to say I'm enjoying the drive to and from work.
I'm now trying to sort out all of the little problems with the car...like oil pressure gauge!
This is doing my head in!soo far I've continuity tested wiring, to the oil sender and level switch, all checked out fine. When I switch the ignition on I get 5.5v on the oil pressure gauge terminal on the back of the gauge, then after 3-4seconds it disappears, which sounds right. Then when I start the car, I get a steady 5.5v on the gauge. The only thing is the needle doesn't move. So I took the clocks out today, and put a 5v power supply on the terminals of the oil pressure gauge and negative wire on clock earth pin and the needle moved round to about the 4-5bar mark on the dials, so why doesn't it move when it's in the car and getting 5v? I'm determined to not let this beat me! Lol any help on this would help me tick this problem off the list!
Ah at least it kind of functions.
Might be worth getting a spare set of clocks as the oil pressure gauge itself maybe faulty, mine works when it wants to,. It kind of waves at me like its decided to read level then switches to pressure. Has sometimes read less pressure then sits there until next time it feels like working lol.
Yep, I think you're right. I'm on the lookout for another set of clocks now, at least then I can rule out any faults with them.
I've managed to get hold of a set of front bumper strips, so that's the front back to OE complete. Still need to find the rear strips though.
Oil pressure gauge working, original plip now working, fog lights now working, speedo works sometimes now
I've also made some new front bumper mounts to replace the last monstrosities! And it's now solid and straight.
Unfortunately I've started losing water, and I'm dreading the worst (head gasket) so I'm collecting some parts up just I case it is that. I'm going to replace the head with another one, thats ready to go, to save time (as its my daily) and swap out the water pump and fit a stainless manifold and downpipe too. I've got hold of a stainless downpipe, so I'm going to make a jig from it to make my own for my new engine,turbo build next summer.
If anyone has a head spare and able to post let me know. I don't mind if it needs work, I can skim and pressure test it if needs be, but would prefer a known good one that just needs valves lapping etc..
I've just measured the distance from my front wheel arch to ground, and it measures 62mm does this seem right for OE spec or a little high?
Last edited by Matty; 22-10-2014 at 18:41.
Some more progress. The head gasket was passing water, so I decided to port my spare head and inlet manifold and fit them whilst I was at it. next job will be getting the brackets replated then continue making my new manifold and downpipe.
Out with the old.
In with the new.
Started on the new GT series downpipe.
And found my old membership card!
Last edited by Matty; 02-12-2014 at 22:59.
Nice project. 👌looks like a really decent motor. Good work chap.
Top work and nice project
Slow window motion on a car that has been stood can be helped immensely
by...
1) making sure the windows are really clean - use a clay bar or clay cloth
inside and out, using plain water or a wax-free cleaner, followed by a good
polish with a pre-wax cleaner. Nothing containing wax! Then buff absolutely
clean and slick.
2) Giving the slot through which the glass passes a good clean and some
lubrication with a slick liquid sealant. You'll get some on the glass as it goes
up and down, which is why I'm saying not to treat the glass. If you use
anything on the glass it could compete with the sealant and actually impede
progress.
I was amazed at just how big the improvement was on my car.
Regards,
Steve
Great advice here as most windows on the 5s are as slow as anything and look like they are about to give up.
Sorry to be a pain but you mention some generic products to use- any chance of actually naming some brands please? As I'd love to attempt your techniques but I wouldn't have the first clue on where to buy this stuff
Yeah mine near enough stop half way down, it's a job for when the weather perks up I think! Thanks for the advise, I think a good strip down and clean up is in order.
Next job on the list is to sort the rear wiper out (fit new motor) and replace the quarter window rubbers and catches, as they keep fogging up around the seals, and the quarter windows have dropped at the back.
I've got a pile of bits shot blasted ready for plating now, I just need to source a spare choke bracket and choke linkage to complete the set.
What colour should the parcel shelf be? Mine is just a plastic one, but I'm thinking of covering it in felt instead of searching for a GTT one?
Parcel shelf colour I believe is Phase 1 and early Phase 2 = Grey. Later Phase 2 = Black. Being a H plate I am fairly sure yours would have been black.
So, to buy from one place, go to Serious Performance. Recommended products to buy
would be some...
paint cleanser - good on glass and paint,
show detailer as the lubricant
fine detailing clay
Both the cleaner and show detailer are available in larger sizes for little extra money.
I swear by both products - what the paint cleaner fetches out with these pads will
probably astound you!
Cut the clay bar into 3 or 4 pieces and place the bits into an old mug and half fill with
fairly hot water. Add about 2 capfuls of show detailer (SPSD) and leave to stand for
several minutes. The water needs to be hand hot at this point. If the glass is cold, then
you'll need the mug handy to keep the clay warm. You need to be able to freely knead
the clay like softish plasticene. The clay will harden if it gets cold. Rotate the bits back
into the warm water as you go.
If you have some low-tack tape, then lower the window a little so the top is showing
and mask off the base. Spray the window with SPSD then clean with the clay, keeping an
eye on its surface. Try, if you can, to treat the clay as a puck beneath your palm. The
surface needs to be wet at all times so the clay slides freely without pressure! I repeat,
it does _not_ need pressure to work. Have a first practice on glass, where if you drop
the clay, it can be caught without getting dirty. Always, but always fold the clay so that
the dirt is folded in on itself. If you drop a clay piece, it's game over! No messing! Do
_not_ try and attempt any rescue!
Once you fold the clay, liberally spray the window then, supporting the glass from
behind, press the clay fairly firmly onto the surface to flatten it, taking care that it does
not stick!
Next give the glass a good polish with the paint cleaner (SPPC). Note it doesn't contain
abrasives and works chemically. Unlike the windscreen, you should not use any product
with abrasives because you don't want these getting into the bottom seals. You need
to allow the SPPC to work and just gently buff it off.
Once done, remove the tape, fully lower the window, soak the corner of a microfibre
cloth into the clay liquid and with it wrapped around a finger or three, give the slot a
really good clean. Keep rotating until the cloth comes out clean. You _don't_ need much
pressure, just let the cloth do its thing. Several gentle passes are better than a few with
force.
Finally, liberally spray neat SPSD into the cloth and apply that to the slot. Test the
window operation, giving it a wipe if there's surplus SPSD on it.
If you order the lot from Alex at SP, you can name drop - he'll look after you!
The SPSD is fantastic on paint too.
With Season's Greetings,
Steve
Thanks Mark, I remember my old 5 had a black shelf at that was a G plate but all the ones I've seen are grey. Black would make it easier to colour match!
A great bit of info there Steve! Thanks very much.So, to buy from one place, go to Serious Performance. Recommended products to buy
would be some...
paint cleanser - good on glass and paint,
show detailer as the lubricant
fine detailing clay
Both the cleaner and show detailer are available in larger sizes for little extra money.
I swear by both products - what the paint cleaner fetches out with these pads will
probably astound you!
Cut the clay bar into 3 or 4 pieces and place the bits into an old mug and half fill with
fairly hot water. Add about 2 capfuls of show detailer (SPSD) and leave to stand for
several minutes. The water needs to be hand hot at this point. If the glass is cold, then
you'll need the mug handy to keep the clay warm. You need to be able to freely knead
the clay like softish plasticene. The clay will harden if it gets cold. Rotate the bits back
into the warm water as you go.
If you have some low-tack tape, then lower the window a little so the top is showing
and mask off the base. Spray the window with SPSD then clean with the clay, keeping an
eye on its surface. Try, if you can, to treat the clay as a puck beneath your palm. The
surface needs to be wet at all times so the clay slides freely without pressure! I repeat,
it does _not_ need pressure to work. Have a first practice on glass, where if you drop
the clay, it can be caught without getting dirty. Always, but always fold the clay so that
the dirt is folded in on itself. If you drop a clay piece, it's game over! No messing! Do
_not_ try and attempt any rescue!
Once you fold the clay, liberally spray the window then, supporting the glass from
behind, press the clay fairly firmly onto the surface to flatten it, taking care that it does
not stick!
Next give the glass a good polish with the paint cleaner (SPPC). Note it doesn't contain
abrasives and works chemically. Unlike the windscreen, you should not use any product
with abrasives because you don't want these getting into the bottom seals. You need
to allow the SPPC to work and just gently buff it off.
Once done, remove the tape, fully lower the window, soak the corner of a microfibre
cloth into the clay liquid and with it wrapped around a finger or three, give the slot a
really good clean. Keep rotating until the cloth comes out clean. You _don't_ need much
pressure, just let the cloth do its thing. Several gentle passes are better than a few with
force.
Finally, liberally spray neat SPSD into the cloth and apply that to the slot. Test the
window operation, giving it a wipe if there's surplus SPSD on it.
If you order the lot from Alex at SP, you can name drop - he'll look after you!
The SPSD is fantastic on paint too.
With Season's Greetings,
Steve
I will def be purchasing a few bits from that website to make my 5 sparkle for the summer
Sweet car mate,, love the White ones keep up the good work.
Thanks, I've still got a way to go with tidying it up back to OE spec. Although some engine mods will make it non OE.
My bonnet mat arrived today.
It needs a bit of work, as it has a few patches of felt missing. I'm tempted to recover it all, in some flame proof felt, as it'll probably make for a better finish, but I'm struggling to find something suitable at the moment. Anyone got any experience in tidying bonnet mats up? Lol
I took the 5 to its first show of the year at Bicester heritage Sunday brunch meet today. Not surprising, but it was the only one there.
Upsidedown pic.
How did you smash the fog light mate?
No idea mate, i washed the car in the morning and it was fine. Got home and noticed it was smashed.
Gutted but at least its an easy fix :-)
It's been a while since the last update! Probably due to the lack of work being done to the 5. The plan was to keep it OE but I'm finding it difficult not to tinker.
After some knocking and squeaking coming fromthe front end, and a worn tyre, it was about time I refreshed the suspension at the front. And as I have had campus springs fitted since I bought the car it was rude not to lower it, so I went for 35mm. Front end has dropped 50mm from what it was...massive difference! I've got the back to do tomorrow, so I'll get some before and after shots up. Thanks to Steven leece for sorting me out with some springs, they were spot on.
A busy day ahead
Certainly needed a refresh!
All cleaned up and regreased.
I had a slight issue with the lower arms I bought, they fouled the subframe on the drivers side...is this a common thing? It was an easy fix, but a bit annoying having having to grind and paint new parts.
Last edited by Matty; 23-10-2015 at 21:18.
Rear is all done now.
Is the front camber and caster adjustable at all? It looks like you might get some adjustment on the bottom spherical joint, but is this enough to make a difference? I'm just trying to work out whether it's worth getting all the geometry set up at a garage, or if it's only the tracking that's adjustable track it up at work?
Before.
After -50mm drop on the front -30mm on the rear.
Sits much better now..... the more i see lowered 5'S on std wheels the more i want a set to!
Sits nicely on the standard 13's, good work
Sooooo much nicer to drive now, and on 13's not too harsh either.
New headlights being fitted this weekend...and having a play with an HID xenon setup.
Someone on here is making adjustable top mounts Mattyforget his name.
Found it
https://www.rtoc.org/boards/showthrea...ustable+mounts
They look like a nice piece of kit! I ended up just tracking it up for now, the camber was the same both sides, so not a massive issue for now.
I got impatient and fitted the first headlight this evening, whilst it was dark it made it easier to set the beam height too. Cant believe how bad my lights were! 6400k LED sidelights bulbs and standard H4 at the moment.
New headlights always cause a big visual improvement on the front end
Ah definitely! I've just been for a drive with the xenons, so much better than standard bulbs. I managed to hide all the wiring, so it looks OE in the engine bay.
Respray time! And time for a fair few modifications too. I've decided to go for an FMIC and a custom airbox/duct to go with it. But for now, it's on to the bodywork!
I started digging and this came to the surface. An interesting repair to say the least...at least they had a go!
It all had to go, so the grinder cam out...amazed how thin the panel was!I started trimming another section from a do ar panel, it's nearly ready to weld up, took some time.
Horrible those types of repairs.
My main issue is that I only have a TIG welder, so the gaps have to be perfect and I can only weld a little at a time. Not as many repairs to do as yours, so I can't complain.
I have these to try and sort out now. I had a go last night, but I need some stronger glue for the inside corners.
Yeah you have to pull the material quite taught which means the glue needs to be fairly industrial. Something like time bond or the stuff the local trimmers use.
I am thinking of having some campus cards flocked and repair these cards if I ever want to put it back to OE, Still undecided. The front cards also need some work and after a respray they might stand out even more being a bit tatty.
I managed to repair the quarter panel today, happy that is done, had the welder set on 25A trying not to put holes straight though it.
Last edited by Matty; 16-01-2017 at 21:37.
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