right ive been trying now for weeks to get me 5 running proper first of all afrs all over the place and tick over was high then low / cut out...ive changed aei and got another carb tryed building a good one out the 2 now no matter what carb i use or jets it just wont run good at all it seems to be running very rich and no matter what i do nothing seems to matter im pulling my hair out with this please someone help me out here
New poster! (less than 10 posts)
Hi mate I have the same problem with mine at the moment mine has been like it for 2 years took it to a couple of different garages and no joy. I found a good mechanic who I spoke to and he said he will be able to sort it out. He is very reliable and knows what's he is doing. It is in the garage at this moment in time should be done in the next few days so I will let you know how I get on ASAP and maybe u could give it a go your end. Keep u postedOriginally Posted by KEV 5 GT
yes any help would be more than greatfull im tearing my hair out its deffo baffled me this one
I know the feeling mine is averaging 4 miles to the gallon I listened to a few of my friends and they told me to take it to this person and that person and it was no good. The chap who's having a go now is and old school mechanic and I trust him to get it sorted. I have rebuild my carb and it made no difference so time to let the expert have a go. As soon as I have news will let u know. Nothing worse than having a 5 run like s**t needs to be enjoyed.
its running that crap sounds like its running on 3 lol but give it a good rev and its happy but running very rich flames and bangs out the exhaust god knows
When idling what AFR are you getting Kev ?
when it does idel well kinda the afrs are 10.5
You adjusted the mixture screw ?
yh but dint seem to do much
Hi dont know if you have checked the jets to make sure there standard and have a gasket kit to rebuild it from then you can start from a good base and tune it from there and rule out any faulty parts/spilt gaskets.
ive tryed going back to all standard jets / diferant air correctors ect ive tryed all the common things this is why i carnt understand whats what baffled me
Have you taken the needle all the way out ?
what needle andy
have u got the standard fuel pump fitted?
have u got the standard fuel pressure regulator fitted?
try and measure the pressure with a guage...should read 4psi max at idle
standard pump ph 1
standard fpr i think
how do i check pressure ? what with
The idle needle. Take it out , all the way out.
the idle screw you mean ive taken that out ?
Kev,what jets,valves,bushes have you measured with micro drill bits?
just ac/main jet
So you dont know what idle jet you have,1st stage,2nd stage,needle valve,acc pump jet.
Take it out , have a look at it. Is it broken? Is the O ring on it ?
no o ring on acc pump jet looks like its leeking from there when press throttle 1 carb has stock 2nd stage jet the other has 2nd jet drilled to 1.3mm tryed differant air corectors tho and still the same
Buy a rebuild kit from the club shop and take it from there.
the old carb ran fine with no acc pump jet o ring in there before im lost on this one
I never said the acc. pump. I said the idle needle. There should be a rubber O ring on it..
the screw on side of carb you mean idle jet ? ive took that out and its got an oring on it ?
Its not a jet. It is on the side. It has a flat head on it
Look like :
oh you mean the mixture screw i will take it out if theres no o ring on it or its broke can this cause a prob then ?
Yes. It can cause erratic and poor idling. The ends tend to snap, or the o ring dry out and crack
right ok i will have a look 2mo see whats what there and let you know
right ive fully rebuilt carb today seems good and working as it should but car still running ruff sounds like its running on 3 cylinders checked plugs there black checked for spark and seemed like on one cylinder the spark was intermitent and sparking from leads.....am i looking at a set of leads here or something else ?? it does sound like it to me / and maybe a set of plugs as well...
Put some new campus plugs in.Gap them correctly.Campus plugs are dirt cheap and work.Then take it from there.If its not the plugs then you will be glad you bought the campus ones.
whats the score with the Campus plugs then ? ive got a feeling its the plug leads breaking down looks like there shorting out as sparking coming from middle of leads
The crack is they cost about £7
Ht leads shouldn't be arching out the lead, sounds like the ht leads are broken down, good guess the rest of the ignition system isn't good condition either.
Without reading the whole thread, try new ht leads and king lead, dissy cap, rotor arm and spark plugs. Be carefull you don't push the rotor arm too far down the dissy shaft as the rotor arm won't contact the dissy cap correctly, push it down and lift it 2-3mm check the dissy cap after a few 100miles and see what markings are inside the contacts
If the problem isn't solved after that you might have to start looking at tappet adjustment, bent push rods or even burnt out valves.
i got quoted £1.99 + vat from local motor spares for plugs lol im gonna get some new plugs and leads in the morning and i will check distribitor thats new but will check its lined up like you say see whats what
Not £7 each Kev.Thats £7 for four.Start with the cheapest option.
there probs the ones then they maybe trying to rob me £3 lol
Basically lawn mower plugs,
Good for finding faults with, no so good for longevity and performance applications, see this happening lots on car forums lately because people cannot diagnose correctly and guess alot
Nothing wrong with campus plugs.People have been using them with a good dolop of boost for years.Mine have outlasted the iridium plugs i had and cost a third of the price.
right carb rebuilt new plugs and leads and shes up and running ive set the carb up to the best i can but when i took her out for a run it seems like when i floor it on boost it seems to be holding back and a bit of a pop from exhaust then she goes good ??? any ideas as to whats what now
do you have a wideband to see how the fueling is reacting when it holds back?
If not anyone local to you that can help?
yh ive got the lm1 kit fitted i only took it around a few streets to see if it was ok afr on tick over was 13 to 13.5 i dint look what it was doing when going along shall i check to see whats what ? not sure if its fuel or ignition side of things ? could a boost leak or any other leak cause this ?
just tryed starting her up and took me about 40 mins to get her going it seemed to me like there was intermitant spark at the king lead sparking then not ??? what could that be ?? also tick over is abit up and down and im not sure if the acc pump jet is doing its job as well
oh also took it for a run and when the hesitation and spluttering kicks in the afrs go to around 19/20s
Last edited by KEV 5 GT; 10-02-2014 at 18:00.
did you change the king lead with the ht leads?
yes got a full set of leads
mif your engine earths are good then maybe your coil pack has gone weak or the tdc sensor is playing up?
Check your getting a good voltage at the aei with the engine running with minimal voltage drop.
With the engine running,
Check voltage across the battery should be 13.8-14.5volts.
Now check you get near enough the same at the aei 12+ wire to the batterys earth.
there could be a dodgy wire somewhere the only thing is iam not an electition and
me and wires dont mix lol does the tdc lead make it spark ? ive tryed another aei also
Thats very lean. On Idol you should be looking for around 14. WOT around 12/13 depending on the power that you are running.
19/20 suggests that there is very little fuel at times, maybe this is your problem...
im just wondering if its down to the acc jet not squirting fuel down the carb cos it
dont seem to be very well if at all when i press throtle ?
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote