Currently fitting a pace charge cooler. Thought I'd share some pictures.
I've got an new Bosch pump coming with new water pipes and just ordered my boost run.
Will be re routing my header tank to create space.
I'll also be setting it up to run with my current fmic and as a stand alone.
I have a charge temp monitor on order so I can see any improvements in. Inlet temps... Fingers crossed!!!
Where are you getting your inlet reader from? Is the fmic no good then or are you just wanting things even cooler.
I'm getting my gauge from eBay mateOriginally Posted by Nad-5GTT
http://bit.ly/16GsVNP
My aim is to help get lower intake at Santa pod with the help of a header tank full off ice water... And more boost !!! It didn't cost me a lot and with looking into charge coolers they seem to be a win win when set up right. Hopefully just get rid of my fmic all together but keeping my options open.
Secondly surrey meet Phil runs a charge cooler with his bread bin and his car is the nuts !!!
Cheers for the link, it's good that it shows before and after. I've got the same gaytec front mount as you but with a shorter pipe run, I found two 1mm holes in some of the welds which clearly didn't help me
. Be interesting to see what differences you would get with the charge cooler in place or just the front mount. And yes Phil's car is immense
That's piss poor to find holes!! My tubular exhaust manifold went up the duff after only 1500 miles... Luckly the turbo and my engine wasn't damaged at all.
Overall though I like my fmic from ktec. Yes the run is longer than most but I don't notice any extra lag.
Be good to see how efficient I can get the charge cooler. That gauge is from Taiwan. They should be sending as a gift and lowering the purchase price to help my wallet through customs. I ordered mine last week and it was dispatched today. Usually a 2-3 week turn around but way cheaper to buy from them.
Luckily I was able to have them welded in. Keep this thread updated with the results bud
charge temps will be low but its going to be a lag monster with that front mount and charge cooler piped up together, pace charge coolers are designed to be run with a standard 5 intercooler as the pipe run is short, I found the best setup on my old c1j for pod was a charge cooler on its own minimal pipe run = instant boost so straight off the line but by 4th gear flat out charge temps will have doubled them pace coolers only work for very short sprints. the best setup seems to be big front mount with the shortest boost pipe run as possible. food for thought
Cool thanks for the advice ted .... On the top picture I've got pipe work to come out of the charge cooler and join the original inlet boost run that I have bypassing the fmic totally.
Hopefully it will do its job. I might see how leggy my car really is now with doing that too
I think my charge cooler set up works really well and maybe that's because of where I have situated the cooler itself as its always cold but I have also done away with the header tank for it as well and located the pump in a position where its always getting cold air round it and all seems to work well but I would say make the pipe run as short as you can possibly get it as longer pipe work will store more heat
Cheers Phil will keep that in mind. Glad I posted this up. Gives me more room for improvement. Thanks guys
Do long boost runs = lag?
I've had a lot of different set ups on Fluffy, and tbh - the length of boost run has negligible effect on lag IMO.
Funny enough that's what my dad keeps telling me...
I personally can't see a long boost run increasing lag by a margin that is that noticeable, your probable talking a hundredths of a second.
But a longer pipe run will mean more places to leak, every bend/join will hinder flow.
I'd measure your inlet temps with just your intercooler first as things may be ok to start off with.
We'll think of it like this, if you have a car tire and have to inflate it to 30psi it's going to be a darn sight quicker than a tractor tire to the same pressure and a whole lot easier if you using a foot pump. The energy has to come from somewhere in this case the turbo.
True but on the scale that's being discussed that's irrelevant. That's like comparing the space in a mini to a bus. When people say longer run, we are not talking much more.
scott building this car for pod so boost runs and lag is important if you want to get off the line anyone ever raced against the clock at pod will know this and just building a track car you will not notice the gain in a track car as the clock at pod never lies and think a half second in a c1j is very important a lost a half second by running the charge cooler on its own, but after 28psi runs at pod the charge cooler split and water when in the engine =boom. after this fitted front mount and long boost runs = lag and my car lost over half second.
there's a lot work goes into building a fast drag car its making the most out of what you got under the bonnet.
Wondered when my chargecooler would show its head, hope alls well scott and was cheap too.
Hi mate , yes it all arrived in good condition. Although I had to drain the oil out of the cooler for a few days though
Deffo not irrelevant dude, with an engine that has a static compression ratio of less than 8.0-1 spool is everything. My old tungy pos that I brought off Minty was a prime example of a dog $hit intercooling system, with a rubbish pipe run,an intercooler that was far too big for the boost level and with the charge piping being 1/2'' too big. Changed most of the setup out for a smaller more efficent intercooler, smaller charge piping and instantly saw a 200rpm gain in spool
My terminal speed dropped from 106mph to 104mph and the only change was a front mount and longer boost run, and ****e mikalor clips, was miles more responsive with the k-tec double cap and standard boost run.
A lot of how it performs is how well everything seals, make sure you swagg all the pipe ends and for me good quality stainless jubilee clips are far more reliable than anything else.
Standing correctedDeffo not irrelevant dude, with an engine that has a static compression ratio of less than 8.0-1 spool is everything. My old tungy pos that I brought off Minty was a prime example of a dog $hit intercooling system, with a rubbish pipe run,an intercooler that was far too big for the boost level and with the charge piping being 1/2'' too big. Changed most of the setup out for a smaller more efficent intercooler, smaller charge piping and instantly saw a 200rpm gain in spool
Hahaha rimslurp loser.
If u want to improve the pace charge cooler setup
1. Bin off the standard header tank it comes with and get a gtt header tank.
2. Increase the coolant lines from 12mm ID to 25m ID.
3. Mount the pump below the passenger headlight so it doesn't have to pull the water, just push.
4. Replace the prerad with the biggest rad you can physically fit.
5. Make sure the coolant enters the charge cooler the opposite end to the boost pressure.
1. Do you mean the standard one ?? I have 19mm hose on order from the charge cooler web site, I don't think my hoses will fit over the ends.. Plus aren't there 3 ports on that? Do you block one of the bottom inputs and use top and bottom or do you use both bottom ones??
2. Answered above
3. I thought this had to be at the lowest point of the system?
4. Big is always better. But is the original not that good?
5. Yeah that's a good tip. I have that In mind already. In where the boost leaves and out where it enters
Cheers for all advice guys
This is on like donkey kong cumwhisp.
Why not just run a FMIC and hit it with a CO2 fire extinguisher before you run?
Worked for me
I had another change of plan and I've currently fitted an charge cooler after all.
I also have a nitrous kit ready to be installed.
Here are some pics of the charge cooler set up. Went for a spin today and had inlet temps before charge cooler at 45 degrees while the outlet temp was 18 degrees.
i used to do that on my old 200sx before runs. used to make a noticeable difference, wasnt really timing it for differences but pulled like a train for longer with doing thatWhy not just run a FMIC and hit it with a CO2 fire extinguisher before you run?
Worked for me
Why not just run a FMIC and hit it with a CO2 fire extinguisher before you run?
Worked for me
Watch the last 10 seconds of this vid:
http://youtu.be/x6UQ-193z7k
You'll see that I tried that trick a few years ago with my Saab on a dyno to see if it really did make a difference.
All I got was an electric shock from the coil whilst spraying the cooler and a 1hp gain
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