Also at the fuel pump it's self positive reads 0.2 with the ignition at 2nd turn.. I can still hear both relays click at the key..Originally Posted by Nottswoody
Also at the fuel pump it's self positive reads 0.2 with the ignition at 2nd turn.. I can still hear both relays click at the key..
Did you try a new ignition coil.? Mine died on me intermittently ladt month it was a dodgy coil. Changed now all good.
All readings are ok from the coil bud..
I think its something on the loom maybe even the ecu now.. Iv bridged it so the pump runs and this time the plugs were not wet..
Bridged it from the fuse box to sidetrack the fuel relay in the loom and that still didnt work..
Next step i think take all the loom out and strip it back.
Can i test the ecu in anyway?
Out of interest what coil did you get? I cant seem ti find a replacement the shop keeps showing me a differnt coil to the one i have.. Do you have a part number?
Well and truly baffeled
Be careful just bridging and bypassing unless your sure, you can damage the ecu.
It shouldn't blow the fuel pump unless the pump is faulty and sticking causing too much current draw. I think that is something your doing?
Fuel pump shouldn't go live until the timing ecu sees the engine spinning, then the relay is earthed via the ecu. So on the 2nd ign click only one relay should click.
Stripping the loom back is a pita, I wouldn't, testing continuity between connectors to ecu connector is easier.
So have you changed the tdc sensor?
Got it off ebay for £15 for a five gt. Try and find you the link runs lovely now.
Coil pack won't be off a gtt mojo, they have an aei unit.
Your right haz my bad i think it was for the volvo 1.7 engine
Coils don't tend to fail unless they have been bumped and got hairline cracks in the tip.
You can replace just the coil,
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-NGK-Ig...item4d0eb35238
This type works to but I wouldn't pay that! Just so you know what to look for.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Volvo-S70-...item5403990b87
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Meat-Doria...item2c79011f06
So long as the connector plugs in it will probably work, could be Renault, Volvo Saab etc.
Hi haz yes I changed the tdc sensor and no change.
So then checking continuity iv watched yet another you tube "how to" what areas should I be checking all the plugs again? Icu/injectors/etc etc
If you have a Hayes you could test from the ecu connector pins to component pins but I can't see the loom being at fault.
the timing ecu goes live on ign second click, it stays live during cranking and should see the engine turning then turn on the fuel pump relay and that the pump, trigger the fuel ecu to turn on injectors, supply power to turn on the coil which should give the spark.
So if your getting a spark then timing ecu should see the engine moving so ecu, coil and tdc should be ok. If the plugs stay dry, the injectors arent opening or there may just be no fuel there. if earthing the relay to the fuel pump and getting the fuel around the system and after some cranking they are still dry, and getting a spark then it's possibly wiring between the ecu's, ecu and fuel pump relay, ecu to injectors or the main loom earth (coil pack and engine lifting eye ones). If you test continuity between all that and it's good then poss an ecu fault.
I do still feel the fault is not loom based though.
Could spark plug gap be a prob? They are new but I was just thinking iv been testing only one plug spark when cranking over
Not really unless too far open/closed, more so on boost/high revs.
Was just saying to haz mate, mine appears to have developed a very similar (if not the same problem) as yours, if I work anything out I'll let you know.
Just out of curiosity what was your afr's like?
Afrs were stable really bud.. Iv just tested a few things for continuity and got some very strange readings im just not sure if im doing it right.. Will look into it a bit better tomorow/sunday
I think it was 13s/14s on tick over and more 12s/13s running but leaned out on full boost
It dose sound the same as yours bud.. Bloody things but if i can get it to run aswell as the night i did have out init i will be happy
Your fueling sounds very similar to mine once I'd leaned off tick over.
I reckon we've missed something somewhere if I do find anything I'll let you know
Lets have a few hrs looking at these wires.. Really wamt this runnig nowwant my mrs to have her car back and get the 5 as my daily again.. I hope it's something small
I've had a read back through and what is worthy of note is that I also blew the fuse for the fuel pump a couple of weeks ago, replaced it and didn't think anything of it. Wonder if there is the potential for a voltage spike?
Nb: a couple weeks back my loom as stripped & everything cut out of it & couldn't see an problems so I don't think it's something to do with the loom.
I'm starting to think that possibly shorting the terminals on the pink connector has fried the ecu. I'm tempted to get another but it's not going to be for a while as unfortunately my cash flow is running thin.
Hi Paul.Had a reed through your thread but just incase i have miss read anything.Are you saying your getting fuel,good spark and compression but still wont start?
Pump works when bridged but still wouldn't start
I'm not getting a power signal to the injectors now at the plug all six females have no power signal..
I have power from inside the car of the old relay side I have power to the volvo relay
But why do both module relay and pump relay click at the same time when I turn the key to the second position? Is that right?
I'm now thinking the injectors haven't got power
Iv got an old rtoc write up I will get back in the warm and read up a bit
So I stripped back were the join is for the wires
On the 2nd turn of the key
Grey and red = have a reading of 0.6
Blue and brown = 0.69
Grey has 11.92
So grey n red are the fuel pump
Grey is run position
Blue and brown the rev counter?
Are they right?
Old relay, the fuel pump one? That should be bypassed connecting thick grey/red from fuel pump relay to white wire on gtt fuel pump, I just snip on o/s sill loom and join there.
I don't think the blue/brown needs connecting, I forget what it for, possibly join into starter wire, or ign live.
Both relays shouldn't click, all the red wires should be live, grey/red during cracking and running, green/yellow should be earthed via ecu.
If the ecu is faulty I think something electrically has damaged it so putting another on could result in the same. If the injectors are the wrong impedance that can cause the outputs to blow
Edit : brown/blue is rev counter signal from ecu.
Last edited by Haz; 03-02-2014 at 22:01.
I dont have the old relay in now i think thats were we took our power souce from that block in the dash were the old pump relay was.
Are those readings ok haz?
Oh and the two relays are definatley clicking at the same time.
If i take the module one out then nothing
Puzzling
its coming along nicely
Last edited by jesus in the seat of a 5; 27-01-2014 at 20:39.
Well that's not very helpfull now is it..
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1206339214...84.m1423.l2649 that's was the coil I used.
Last edited by B18ftMOJO5; 26-01-2014 at 07:46. Reason: wrong link
glad shes up and running...sounds great
Last edited by jesus in the seat of a 5; 27-01-2014 at 20:40.
Headache time with the b18
Too much fuel pressure is one possibility
The position of the MAF unit makes a difference too so maybe worth playing with different positions
It starts off fine 14s then straight to 10s then when you rev it it starts to cut out then back to 10s
Moved the maf so it's closer to the turbo and instead of going to 14s it went to 13.7 then back to 10s?
Ideally you want the MAF as far from the turbo as possible, as close to the front and as high up in the engine bay as possible too
Right now I just want to burn the dam thing. Had a bit of a wiring fault so I need to strip back the loom and check it all over that's going to be a mission and a half..
Right so far checked for leaks and found none
All boost hoses tight all clips tightened
New ecus as I fried the last ones with said electrical fault
So I may need a new loom anyone got a good one?
Some info missing on the thread, always helps with diagnostics
I went over to lend a hand on Saturday whilst visting Ron. Quick look over and something wasnt right. Fuses were 30amps, they should be 10amp, and one had severely melted leaving the metal behind.
Upon opening the fuel ecu it smelt burnt out too.
The main Volvo loom around the alt had managed to work it's way onto the belt and cut into 5 wires, 2 being live others sensors. They weren't fused together although did need pulling apart. Seperated and taped them up.
Popped on a spare fuel ecu (and a modded timing ecu but won't effect fuelling) and fired up fine. Idles fine but rich.
Re plumbed the icv into the boost run instead of the intake pipe.
Adjusting throttle body idle jet doesn't do much.
There is a 70-50 reducer straight after the afm, I have suggested to fit the reducer onto the turbo and enlarge the existing run.
The problem is when blipping the throttle it will stutter and bogs as it richens up. Gradually rev it and its not so bad. Ecu is possibly relying on map only.
Similar whether afm is plugged or unplugged so would normally assume afm fault, but fuelling does differ.
Another afm has been tried with the same results.
I still feel the melted 30amp fuse will more than likely mean melted and possibly fused wires within the loom. Maybe not, but that's were I would start next since it ran ok prior to the above.
Thanks haz
Hard for me to write all that on my Phone..
Iv peeled back about a foot from the relay box and all looks ok so far I also peeled back cut a re joined the part were it caught the belt but still the same. Checked a bit of continuity from negative to the loom ecu parts and all had readings (what they mean I do not know but it made the noise) so I'm guessing they seem fine.. But iv given up tonight and tomorrow I'm going to take the loom off and strip it as haz has sergested.. I was only rushing as I couldn't be arsed to bike it but back on te bike I go..
Do you think I could of damaged the injectors? And would it be worth me putting that other rail I have on the car?
Continuity testing needs to be done properly with a manual. Sounds like your testing if each wire is connected to earth? You need to test point to point, ie ecu pin x to coil pin x.
Yes you may have damaged injectors and in that case yes change them, but if the loom fault is still there then you could damage them again, same for the ecu.
It's not a nice job but I say strip it, you can just change it but I like to make sure where the fault is and at least your only buying what you need
Right then let's pull this loom out and have a look.. Not looking forward to this there's far too many wires..
So am I right in thinking I could thin the loom off all none needed wires?
It's not bad, just messy. Wd40 on a rag should clean the tape glue off the wires. The tough bit is where the extra wrap is where you have it coming through the bulkhead as it's got extra sticky blu tac in there (remember to sort that too or will become another problem).
If your unsure use cable ties every 6" or so to and at T off's to keep the loom simple for re wrapping.
Yes you can chop some out the loom, like test points and unused sensors, and shorten where required but I wouldn't advise it until it's back running as it should if your unsure which ones to cut anyway.
Well after a very messy night stripping the loom down I don't think it's that all the continuity seems to work out ok.. Next went to stripping the throttle body down to get at the throttle postion switch as it maybe suspect.. Also the water temp sensor is reading way off what it should be..
So new water sensor next try that then if not that throttle sensor if not that then a very big bonfire on my drive..
Bloody cars
If you have connected the volvo water sensor to the 5 gauge on the dash it will read alot higher than the C1J so don't worry about that too much, the engines do run alittle hoterWell after a very messy night stripping the loom down I don't think it's that all the continuity seems to work out ok.. Next went to stripping the throttle body down to get at the throttle postion switch as it maybe suspect.. Also the water temp sensor is reading way off what it should be..
So new water sensor next try that then if not that throttle sensor if not that then a very big bonfire on my drive..
Bloody cars
Trying to rack my brains too as to what it could be, strange how it ran sweet at the beginning then all of a sudden stopped
I'm surprised it's not the loom. You did check every inch of the loom visually, not just continuity test?
Mark I think he means the ecu temp sensor, front of the head. That needs to read correct, think the values are in Hayes. If it is way out that will cause it to over fuel of it thinks it too cold and cut out and not restart if thinks it's too hot. It would explain fueling and could be why it won't rev freely.
With the tps, it will run unplugged, just not as responsive, so if it's the same plugged in/out then I don't think it's that.
This is a very weird one, if it was running good prior to the wires on alt belt issue it is electrical, something blown?
Remind me, which wires were cut through? I know there were 2 ign lives so they were putting power to sensor signal wires, was it temp sensor/afm?
That's correct haz it was one of the wires to the temp sensor as you know I'm rubbish at explains the multi meter but the sensor read something like 900 when Hayes says it should read 22 or something like that so I'm guessing it's telling the ecu it's cold? As I mentioned it runs at 14.7 for 5secs ten will go down to 10-11 and stay there on the Afrs For £9 I will change it lucky enough gsf has the sensor..
Haz yes I fully stripped the loom bloody messy it was but glad I have done now as iv learnt a lot..
Last edited by Nottswoody; 07-02-2014 at 10:33.
Ah thats cool Haz, thought he meant the dash gauge sensor
Could be the setting on the multimeter as the settings just move the decimal point, testing the resistance could be 900, 90 or 9. Haynes will give a temp to check it at too. Either ways it's not what it should be.
The 5 secs delay will be the auto choke map, not sure which sensors it will use, but then as it changes it must be getting a duff reading.
Double check with Gsf, I think they only sell the temp gauge sensor.
So the old sensor = 9.47 oms
New sensor reads 5.96 oms on the meter reading that looks like headphones
Last edited by Nottswoody; 07-02-2014 at 16:32.
What does Haynes say it should be and at what temp?
Are they both on the bench? Or is one still in the head? Cold coolant will give a different reading to one that's been sat in the house.
If they are side by side, get it in and give it a try
Haven't got the Hayes my bud has.. Getting changed now to go see iv been looking on the net but dosnt tell me jack..What does Haynes say it should be and at what temp?
Are they both on the bench? Or is one still in the head? Cold coolant will give a different reading to one that's been sat in the house.
If they are side by side, get it in and give it a try
nope not that back to the drawing board
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