Sounds like a job for Saturday
Sounds like a job for Saturday
**** mate u got it!! Awesome I'm coming to see you!
nice find pete.
It's amazing what you can find when u go round 200 garages a week
Nice mate! be a good project cant wait to see that all done
amazing
really cant wait to see the updates coming on this project
Last edited by tubbyG; 30-01-2013 at 11:02.
Any update on this
There's not been alot of progress on this project recently as I only get one day a week to work on it and I've been working on my clio 172 to get it motd and shifted to free up some cash.
So far the t2 is almost stripped, just got to lift the engine out and remove the rear suspension.
The plan is to get the shell acid dipped and e coated fully seam welded, (maxi kit, wishbones, drive shafts and wheels)
Stand alone ecu (efi) new intercooler and radiator water inj, 4 branch equal length exhaust manifold t3/4 external waste gate, maxi cam, forged pistons and rods, arp bolts. (modern brakes) thinking of 172 cup servo, meg 225 brembo callipers gtt rear callipers, STD & hydraulic handbrake. brake bias.
New wiring looms. Poly carb windows, roll cage, aluminium fuel cell under bonnet.
So far the parts I've got are cobra Suzuka pro seats in Kevlar, new wheel bearings, tarox 40 slot front discs and pads,ss braided f&r flexibrake lines, new front callipers, new rear hydraulic callipers, new steering rack lhd, new oe front upper wishbones, speedo cable, f&r bumper blocks, door lock rubber surrounds, fuel filler cap, battery clamp bracket, hand brake switch, wish bone bushes, wheel nuts, hand brake calliper pads, suspension top mounts, fuel gauge sender,
I've also got avo front and rear coilovers with eibach springs to go on it.
So I've basically got loads of oe parts to sell to free up cash for the stuff I need.
So the parts for sale are; Interior, seats, carpets, seat belts etc, body kit, mechanical fuel inj system, intercooler brakes, suspension, wheels and Tyres, glass, electric window motors, STD rad and engine covers.
Also the new refurbed callipers tarox 40 slot discs and pads, new hand brake pads new fuel level sender.
Last edited by Pete@Backyard Racing; 18-02-2013 at 19:50.
I know some people may think that my plans of modifying a t2 is a crime but that's my choice and I've thought long and hard about it, but each to their own.
I'm still unsure of a colour scheme / graphics so please let me no what u think, my ideas are:
1 solid colour ie black all over.
Red and blue maxi philips auto radio.
Black White and gold Renault maxi diac.
Red White and blue maxi from the tour of France.
It's your car you do want you like sounds like a good spec
There are 2Originally Posted by Pete@Backyard Racing
If you're putting maxi kit on it... do it.... if not... perhaps look at the 'cup' cars??? or the Group 4 cars./.... some had AMAZING paint jobs
but if you do go down the maxi route... please fit the front and rear wings as they are different... get the proper bonnet as the 'vent' is wider, and enjoy trying to 'stick' the new boot to the old boot
but most of all.... drive it and enjoy it
Thanks for the words of encouragement guys
I no it's a bit contraversal messing with classic cars but I don't want to go down the oe route again it costs far too much money and your never happy with the car always on the look out for a better condition part, too scared to drive it incase it gets a stone chip or putting an extra mile on the clock, trailering it from show to show. Not for me all that rubbish. I just want to drive it and enjoy it.
Ps I emailed John price rallying for prices on a maxi kit etc as there's no prices on his website.
I got a reply but no prices, he wants me to call down to his work shop to discuss. Something tells me it's going to be expensive! Best take some Vaseline!
Yeh definitely putting the full maxi kit on.
Part number for fuel guage sender I have is 60 00 047 808.
Its not the kit you need to worry about for pricing, think it was the front lights which quite a few years ago it was around £200 each new
Be great seeing the progress of this one
I'm sure he quoted my dad 8k for the maxi kit/fitted/painted
It might have been more(was a while bk)
Oe is boring,and they ain't fast standard.
I'm sure compomotive do the maxi speedline replicas,the genuine speedlines cost a fortune,saying that,the majority of parts for the t2 are expensive.
http://www.mcracingsa.com/RENAULT5T.htm
thank me later.
Or wait a few months and give me a call ......
I think the headlights are the same, do u mean the fog/ Spot lamps, if so I'm sure I'll find some round fogs that will fit if not I'll fit blanks.Its not the kit you need to worry about for pricing, think it was the front lights which quite a few years ago it was around £200 each new
Be great seeing the progress of this one
Thanks sparkie, it's been a long week.
Compomotive get their maxi replica wheels from tomsky racing. Would your dad be interested in selling his?I'm sure he quoted my dad 8k for the maxi kit/fitted/painted
It might have been more(was a while bk)
Oe is boring,and they ain't fast standard.
I'm sure compomotive do the maxi speedline replicas,the genuine speedlines cost a fortune,saying that,the majority of parts for the t2 are expensive.
Spill the beans, wot u got??
Or wait a few months and give me a call ......
Unfortunately he sold his turbo 2 today,very sad day
Maxi rep rims I have
Unfortunately he sold his turbo 2 today,very sad daywhy?
Nice! Have u just got them?
Maxi rep rims I have
Nnnnnnnnnnooooooooooooooooooooooo!Unfortunately he sold his turbo 2 today,very sad day
He hardly used it,I think I drove it more times than him last year(which isn't a bad thing from my point of view)was gutted though when it went
Must be exciting deciding the colours for your Turbo!
I am not a big fan of the Works colour schemes on Turbo2's to be honest. They seem to have been copied alot. I don't really like fully sticker'ed cars on the road either, they just remind me of somebody pretending to be a racing/rally driver.
Although the black/white/gold Diac one would look good without all the stickers.
I think if you really NAIL a perfect gloss black, it will look amazing. The black seems to make them look even wider. A straight gloss black will be simple enough to touch up when it gets stonechips too.
Or a metallic, like 'Ford panther black' is very nice....
Totally agree. Life is for living and that car needs driving!
Great project
Little update doing this for Pete sure he will comment
The shell is pretty much stripped now. Next job is to weld in a lhd bulk head. Then off to be acid dipped & e coated. Then roll cage and maxibody kit fitted. I think I'm going to paint it black.
looks good mate fairplay i am so jealous
I really wouldn't acid dip it, I've done some research into it and a lot of restoration companies don't recommend it either.
You need to drill lots of little holes all over to allow the acid to circulate and drain, the shell gets baked to dry it out but it doesn't always get rid of all the moisture so the e coat doesn't stick. Also it removes the paint between panel joints and the e coat doesn't penetrate enough causing the panels to rust away in inaccessible places.
The process is good for race cars ect or panels but it's a lot of money for something which can shorten the life of a car, soda blasting is a better option although that can leave some material which can be blown out during paint so needs to be thoroughly cleared out before.
I'm still a bit unsure on acid dip vs soda blast so I'm going to look into it a bit more. I think the sills are the problem if there isn't adequate drainage available.
One things for sure if it is getting dipped I'll be making sure the necessary drain holes are in place.
More comments / opinions on any part of this build welcome plz peeps
New poster! (less than 10 posts)
Well as im new to the site i was reading thru you thread and got amazed qith your purchase, let me give you my 2 cents about restoration/acidvssoda or sand blasting:
I would denfenitly put acid bath aside for the body it self, the reason for that is that i believe that you like that car very much and once acid clean (unless you manage to dip ip in a tank of epoxy right after) you will never be able to get with a spray gun where the acid as been, making the body shell very weak and "naked" from that day on because of the lack of proper proteccion, epoxy,paint,wax,stonchip, in other words if you cant get later on where the acid as been, its a no go, i hope i make myself understand. as for the other metal parts like fenders is completly ok as you can reach every tight corner after the process, so if i was you i would go for sand blasting over soda blasting the reason for that is that soda blasting cant get as deep as the sand, even thow, you have to be shure to wich company you give the job too, i have been restoring cars for some time as an everyday job and let me tell you that some people can do a lot of damage in the process,some cars after sand blasting were so dented from the heat and preasure that the owners threw them out so take your time to find some one that has some knowledge and background on what you are giving them. i dont mean to scare you off i just rather say this now then after damage has taken place.
keep us posted on this wonderfull project. hope it was useful
Hey Pete,
If your going down the dipping route, the only people that i would use would be these guys
http://www.surfaceprocessing.co.uk/for-cars.html
Matt
What the roof made of ? Different processes for ali and steel
I'd certainly look at soda blast in the bare state .Phildini had his A610 done but it was mostly complete and it made a right old mess .A lot more forgiving than sandblast and I'd take that over the extra elbow grease to finish it off
http://www.renaultalpineownersclub.c...pic.php?t=4768
love this
Not sure what happened to Pete?
I think this is the same chap I bought my cage from up nr Bolton. He did mention he still had a T2 and was restoring. If it's the same Pete that is.
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