So today i changed the rear brake compensator and one of the rear brake lines.
I then began to bleed the rear brakes, as i was sat in the car pumping the brake i hear a slurping noise and peddle went soft ,
F@ck
The fluid resivoir had run dry as i wasnt keeping an eye on it.
I topped it up again and bled all 4 brakes,
Didnt help as I now have no brakes at all.
What can i do?? any advise.
Are there any more bleed vales apart from the ones on the calipers.
Thanks
Please help
Going to try the haynes bleeding order tomorrow, if i get time.
1st - LH Rear,
2nd - RH Front
3rd - RH Rear
4th - LH Front
There is also a hising from in the drivers footwell when the pedal is pressed.
It was all working fine this morning ,
no leaks anywhere either.;
FML
Are you holding the rear compensator open when bleading?
i havnt today but i will tomorrow.
I am getting fluid from all brakes. but still have a soft pedal and no brakes.
I hope i can sort this soon as i realy need this car over the next few months.
Is the car on the floor or have you got it jacked up?
It needs to be fully open I've found or does exactly what your saying. However if it still doesn't cure it by opening it up and bleading them, then I'm affraid to say it will most like be a seal on the M/C
i has been on a stand today yes, it was up when it happened.Originally Posted by Dave Reed
Is the car on the floor or have you got it jacked up?
It needs to be fully open I've found or does exactly what your saying. However if it still doesn't cure it by opening it up and bleading them, then I'm affraid to say it will most like be a seal on the M/C
it needs to be fixed by tommorow or it will be getting left in Geramany.
as ive been bleeding it today the pedal does seem to be getting a little harder but still no brakes.
With the engine running when i press the brake it wants to stall.
If you leave it in Germany I will collect it and keep it
ha ha , you wouldnt get very far with no brakes.
also When i pump the brake with the engine running the afr reading shoots up
Also tap the member carcrash on here, i know he went anul about problems with his rear braking
fluid in the master cylinder or not shouldnt affect your vaccuum assistance so dont worry about that for now. as has been said get someone to help you bleed the brakes, pump them a couple of times then get them to release the nipple as you press then hold it to the floor then get them to lock the nipple then repeat, id say its unlikely youve damaged the MC but not impossible.
You can also get a pressure bleeder which attaches to the master cyylinder resevoir and uses your tyre pressure but its best to drop the pressure down, i think arouond 15-20psi or something. the tool should say.
Obviously ive pumped air in to the master or servo or somthing as it run dry.
Hopefully nothing is damaged and after i try bleeding it some more it will sort it out,
this realy couldnt have come at a worst time..
Im such a twa.t
Cheers m8.
Iv had it at work before where the master cylinder has gone dry, or even on pressure bleeding older cars and the seals in the master cylinder fold over or become displaced - possible with yours?
How would i know if this is whats happened ?
whats the usual remedy on the cars you work with?
if your still pumping fluid from all four then the MC should be ok, rememdy for screwed mastercylinder is to replace it.
Yes defo still getting fluid from all nipples, just no real pressure.
I had a split in a pipe this morning and it was shooting fluid under the car through a wheel, across my garage, i had a almost perfect half a wheel print in brake fluid on the wall.
took it to renault today to get brakes blead.
The brakes work , now but the guy told me i had a leak in the vacume hose behind foot pedal ??
there is a hissing when i press the brake.
the brake pedal is very hard and after i press them it feels like they are sticking on.
car still wants to stall when i press the brake.
any ideas , whats this vacume pipe he`s talking about.
Runs from the inlet manifold out of a one way valve to the servo and through another one way valve. Very easy to get to and remove to check for leaks.
Number 8 is the one way valve in the manifold
2 is the second one way valve and 9 is the hose to inspect.
you are a legendThanks
ill check this out tomorrow ,
i cant drive it like this the brake pedal is solid to push down.
Driving from germany in it on thursday night
Dan , i had this happen at mallory , first time i drove the cup... it wasnt my pipe but my servo was knackerd... as marc says check it first and go from there, my revs increased as i pressed the pedal down.. was strange.., i hope its just your pipe bud...GOOD LUCK.
it does sound like the servo leaking, ive seen it on a scenic where it pushed an o ring out of place, you could pop it back in and the brakes would be fine for a few weeks then theyd die again.
that was a diesel tho so it wasnt effecting the way it ran, just the vac pump hissing like crazy when you pressed the brake.
FML.
cheers lads, fingers crossed then for the pipe. Well thats what the guy at renault said ,but he was about 13 years old lol (and german)
ja ja ja your brake is kaput, ja you must have beer on it.
Servo or not its still drivable but won't be pleasant from Germany.
Thing is it needs an MOT within 3 days of hitting England.
Its fine as long as i dont brake.
On mine from the inlet manifold the pipe does not come from no 8 but the one next to it.Number 8 is the one way valve in the manifold
2 is the second one way valve and 9 is the hose to inspect.
does this matter ? , the other goes to carb.
any way seems like that pipe is fine , the valve where it joins the servo? seems dodgey.
The air sounds like its coming from where the brake pedal goes in ,in the footwell
The 8 just means they are the same part number. so no worry.
just been back to renault ,
its not the pipe he says i need a new #1 in that picture , the servo is it ??
He cant get the part in germany and it will be 3 hours to replace.
does that sound right 3 hours??
.
after driving for about 15 mins the brakes come on by them self constant, is there any way i can stop this from happening without loosing the brakes altogether?
also where can i get said part. if i can
3 hours to do the servo is not bad. It's a crap job to be honest. The new servos are around £150 maybe more. I personally wouldn't fit a used one again. If you disconnect the servo pipe and block it to stop the engine stalling you will be able to use your brakes but you will have no servo assist.
Mike stocks new servos.
the thing is i need to get it back to UK on thursday , dont fancy stopping every 15 mins coz the brakes have come on.
ive pm`ed mike ,.
so remove pipe and block the hole in the inlet manifold ? is that right ,
will it take a bolt.
Cheers
If the servo is disconnected it shouldn't keep locking the brakes on.
Disconnect the one way valve from the servo and bung a bolt in the pipe.
got to find some bolts then as my house and garage have been packed up and are in a truck somwhere en route to the uk
Dan , i knew it was the servo as said above, best way to get to it is , if you have a ramp....take the wheel off , pull the drive shaft out , push the brakes to one side etc etc and go from underneath.... much easier...
i dont suppose anyone knows the size bolt i would need
I had the same problem of the brakes sticking on after 15-20 mins of driving, was a duff master cylinder. Happened after a couple of weeks of no use, all 4 brakes would progressively slow the car down.
Also after the brakes not bleeding due to something going a miss its pointing towards it imo.
I cant see how the servo will make the brakes stick on as its only there for power assistance.
Big gay dans failed on him on a trackday where they stuck on, I'm sure it was a duff servo.
the lad at Renault said the servo would be sucking the pedal down or something ,, its hissing like mad when i press the barke
the car had not bee used in a month before sunday,, it can be both the servo and master cylinder surley.
well ive blocked up the hole , on mine the pipe to the servo comes from the base of the carb , the ones on the inlet manifold go to water pump and carb.
Brakes work fine now no hissing obviously , if they still stick im yet to find out.
on a good note ive sorted the click click starter out by replacing the exiter wire,
every cloud bla bla bla.
I still love my 5 though.
even though it costs more to run than the mrs and kids
so just done about 15 miles , brakes seem fine, they do still come on but if i use my foot to pull the brake pedal up the brakes release them selves and then all is fine agian, ??
very strange
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