whats the one thing ure thinking of mart? lol
whats the one thing ure thinking of mart? lol
cam timing/dizzy gear
i agree a friend of mine did a engine change but couldnt get his gtt started
so i went up and soon discovered he had put the leads on the wrong way so worth giving them a check
stupid stupid question... but are your leads:
12 o'clock = 4
3 o'clock = 2
6 o'clock = 1
9 o'clock = 3
number one from the flywheel end, not timing chain end??
i had something with backfire, had dizzy gear in the wrong way, and leads the wrong way, i thought it would cancell out but didnt until i swapped it all back as it should have been
Can someone please go up and sort this out for Raj for his christmas presentThis is one for the ages though WHEN he does sort it
My mate had a similar issue with his landrover, backfiring and such even though it ran at high revs.
Somehow is dizzy was 180 degrees out so he just moved all the leads round to compensate
i.e swapped 1 & 4 , 2 & 3 (I think thats right?)
Assuming you mean 12 o' clock being nearest to the radiator, then fail. Number 1 is nearest the rad'.Originally Posted by markey b
looks ok mate, if everything else is as you say!
Have you tried taking the pipe off the servo and blocking the end? Servo might be goosed and causing an air leak in there!
Fail.
This is the last time I'm gonna post this...
Rotor arm should be pointing to 12 o' clock on the dizzy cap; ie, number 1; ie, the dizzy cap outlet nearest the radiator. Period.
If it's pointing towards the rocker cover/6 o' clock, the dizzy gear is 180deg's out at best. At worst it'll be a tooth either side of that out, which could be what your problem is.
The fact that you're getting backfire through the carb confirms the above. That, or your lead placement is incorrect, even though the whole dizzy gear is 180deg' out.
Take the dizzy unit out, take the dizzy cog out that sits on the cam, double-check you're defo at tdc, re-slot the dizzy cog in place, making sure that when you refit the dizzy gear, the rotor arm now points to number 1 dizzy cap contact. Number 1 being nearest the radiator, as I've said several times previously throughout this thread.
If it isn't, take the dizzy gear out again, take the cog out again, and re-slot it a tooth backwards/forwards as required. It's trial & error, but there will be a point that when the cog is fully home, with the dizzy gear sitting on top of it, the rotor arm WILL be pointing bang on number 1 contact in the dizzy cap.
After that, re-plug your ht leads on the cap in the correct order, namely 1-2-4-3 going anti-clockwise on the dizzy cap.
You could've mentioned that earlier from the previous times that I've asked...
surely the fact that it runs would tell you that it wasn't 180 deg out
Not if the ht leads had been fitted thus so. I went from Markey's post about 6 o' clock being nearest the rocker cover.
the thing i keep coming back to is valve clearence, you sure you've got it right for the cam? i have read through but can't remember if you were told it's definatley 100% what you've used. the fact it's actually running smooth over 2k rules out timing and mechnical issues so just leaves fuelling. may also be worth whipping out one way valve and bolt and putting ptfe tape on just incase the threads are loose, could be that simple
have you got a boost/vac gauge fitted to the manifold?
you don't need any of that
a few folks in the know have said that they stick to std oe valve clearances even with aftermarket cams!
they'd kno mate, that's the problem really all the big guns on here have already given ideas and solutions and still no joy. hopefully someone will get it sorted for you
just a quick question which end of the engine are you using as the marker for number one piston.I.e water pump end or flywheel end?
The c1j engine piston number 1 is nearest the fly wheel and number 4 is at the water pump end.
fly wheel end
I think what Andy's getting at is that it would be interesting to see what sort of vac its pulling at idle!! Maybe give us a clue as to what the problem is!!
You need to block everything that could be leaking. The brake servo outlet, has the carb got the base insulator and both gaskets fitted? have you removed all bleed valves and associated piping, just run 1 vac line straight to the AEI.
yeah i meant as if you have the bonnet off, and are standing in front of the car looking down.. dont fail me just yet lol
I really hope that is the prob and you get it all sorted
It was good meeting you Raj and Scoff, still cant get over the hob trick!
"heres the results -
- no#1 = 160 psi.
- no#2 = 140 psi.
- no#3 = 170 psi.
- no#4 = 150 psi.
"
I'd have expected more like 140psi with your cam and low cr, maybe even less. 170 psi looks like either a bad gauge, much higher CR than you think, or advanced cam timing.
Are you sure that you still have the woodruff key in the crank?
I'm not sure what you want me to measure, but I will do. If it's as bad as you think I imagine it'd look pretty bad.
cooking hobs are more usefull than you'd think
anyway, this is a wierd fault, here's what we did at raj's yesterday:
fired it up, sure enough it was lean at idle but sounded larier than i'd expect.
mixture screw did not provide enough fuel, nor does another known working carburettor.
I drilled up an 0.5mm idle jet and got idle AFR's into the 14's. that brought the idle down to 1200rpm, still it sounded choppy like a lairy camshaft. a ktec-260 cam should not need this much fuel at idle I'm sure. If it was some lairy big-overlap cam then I could understand it.
Chris brought up a compressor so we sealed the carb inlet off and pressurised to check for leaks. it's fine, it holds 2 bar in the manifold so not an air leak.
I strobed the ignition timing too, nothing out of the ordinary, so not AEI or TDC related.
So it's camshaft I thought. timing disc on the crank we checked the cam timing, it was perfect at 110° ATDC. So not a cam timing issue.
Still with the timing disc on we roughly measured duration, with 0.3mm valve clearance we got about 240deg between the valve starting to lift and being fully closed again. It was a bit of a crude measurement, we had no DTI to hand so it's probably a bit off.
we also looked at valve lift at TDC, we had both valves open aprox 2mm at TDC, looking at andy's cam data I was expecting more like 1mm, again with 0.3mm clearence. so that apeared to show a lot more overlap than his camshaft should have given, but we were pissing about with a steel rule against the spring cap, not ideal, so probably doesn't tell us much.
non sealing valves might have the same symptoms, we re-did the compression test with my gauge, had about 140psi, so not valves, and raj assured me they were lapped in good and propper.
inlet ports, manifold, etc are all standard.
I'm convinced it's something to do with the cam.
I think raj will refit the standard cam, see how that runs.
did you check the total lift? 240deg of seat duration and 2mm lift at TDC with 110LSA just sounds weird, that gives 220deg duration at 2mm lift, that would give 2mm lift in 10 deg, or 0.2mm per deg, I've not seen as much as 0.1mm per deg at the steepest part of the ramp.cooking hobs are more usefull than you'd think
anyway, this is a wierd fault, here's what we did at raj's yesterday:
fired it up, sure enough it was lean at idle but sounded larier than i'd expect.
mixture screw did not provide enough fuel, nor does another known working carburettor.
I drilled up an 0.5mm idle jet and got idle AFR's into the 14's. that brought the idle down to 1200rpm, still it sounded choppy like a lairy camshaft. a ktec-260 cam should not need this much fuel at idle I'm sure. If it was some lairy big-overlap cam then I could understand it.
Chris brought up a compressor so we sealed the carb inlet off and pressurised to check for leaks. it's fine, it holds 2 bar in the manifold so not an air leak.
I strobed the ignition timing too, nothing out of the ordinary, so not AEI or TDC related.
So it's camshaft I thought. timing disc on the crank we checked the cam timing, it was perfect at 110° ATDC. So not a cam timing issue.
Still with the timing disc on we roughly measured duration, with 0.3mm valve clearance we got about 240deg between the valve starting to lift and being fully closed again. It was a bit of a crude measurement, we had no DTI to hand so it's probably a bit off.
we also looked at valve lift at TDC, we had both valves open aprox 2mm at TDC, looking at andy's cam data I was expecting more like 1mm, again with 0.3mm clearence. so that apeared to show a lot more overlap than his camshaft should have given, but we were pissing about with a steel rule against the spring cap, not ideal, so probably doesn't tell us much.
non sealing valves might have the same symptoms, we re-did the compression test with my gauge, had about 140psi, so not valves, and raj assured me they were lapped in good and propper.
inlet ports, manifold, etc are all standard.
I'm convinced it's something to do with the cam.
I think raj will refit the standard cam, see how that runs.
andy, it was a bodge job regarding the measuring so don't read too much into those numbers. I think the lift at TDC was fairly accurate, the duration was down to me wiggling the rockers to see when the gap had closed up. as you know, its a bit piss poor. I didn't measure total lift.
that's the fellawhats a wood ruff key
just in the process of refitting a std cam.
does it say ktec-260 on the end of the cam?
adam005 has a ktec cam.
no, it'll say 709 110, I was just checking whether you were paying attention
my god
wht a carry on uve had with this
i really hope you get this doe and dusted asap
You not god that cam out yet? I thought you would have got it out before me and Scoff had got home
Raj, it will say 709@110 - like Andy said.
no mention of ktec at all....especially as they got piper to make it for em....
tut tut! New came back in straight away as well?
the k-tec cam should have slightly longer [ in a word ] lobes . hence to keeep the valve open longer and slightly more than standard .
In a way your right mate but to make it lift more the base of the lobe will be shorter to create the lift so it'll look smaller at the bottomthe k-tec cam should have slightly longer [ in a word ] lobes . hence to keeep the valve open longer and slightly more than standard .
i was just trying to explain in simpler terms for him to get the basic's of what uprated cams are and do . without being to
I know mate thats cooli was just trying to explain in simpler terms for him to get the basic's of what uprated cams are and do . without being to
or should i say withoutI know mate thats cool
are you saying raj is simple thats not nicei was just trying to explain in simpler terms for him to get the basic's of what uprated cams are and do . without being to
trim the ears off the horseshoe seal, use plenty of sealant and press the cover down firmly, making sure the ends of the horseshoe seal dont poke into the sump area- u want them poking outwards if they are gonna poke out at all.- then seal all gaps with lots of sealant.
but ive not put it all back together yet as ive spent the majority of the day thinking i could squeeze the timing cover back on with the sump in situfuk no!
sooo ill be taking the sump off tommorow and going from there, shouldnt take long to refit everything
yeah, thats what I was trying to explain to you raj. snip the tab/ears off
also, I find sticking it to the bottom of the timing cover first helps, letting it go partly off so it stays inplace, then fresh sealant on everything else and wodge it on, bottom end into the sump first.
appologies i cant reply to the above as ive no idea when it comes to the technical side of cam lift, duration etc etcto me its just a lumpy stick.
ill be refitting the std cam back in over the next few days and all being well the idle problem will be sorted.
Wow mammoth thread and I just sat here for about 3/4 hour reading it.
I had to laugh out loud at the lumpy stick comment above though, that was good
raj , I hope you get this sorted mate.
It seems I have become an addict of this "reality" thread
is the lumpy stick going to be sent off to andy to have a look at when you looking to be up and running again then raj im dying to find out the verdict i cant take it anymore
you know that after all this . it will turn out to be one of the simplest of things . it's probably out there now shouting at you. youwho . you have'nt checked me , have you .i personally cant be bothered to send it off to andy now. hes had it once already and i doubt anythings changed. the cam still looks ok which is making me worry that the cam may not be the causeill save my worrying for after the cars running though
hope you get it sorted soon mate .
how you get on??
Chop chop
any luck yet . stop havingi'll chop friggin chop youits too choppy outside and ive got no heater in me garage
The night is young Raj, fill her up
come on dude get her burning
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