It may be unlikely to fix the problem, but have you tried heating the plugs before firing the engine? Just to get them up to an ideal temp.
It may be unlikely to fix the problem, but have you tried heating the plugs before firing the engine? Just to get them up to an ideal temp.
New poster! (less than 10 posts)
errr ??Originally Posted by raj
most are 0.44mm, I don't know about numbers being stamped, normally the size is stamped on it.
measure it if you can. doesn't explain why the other carb you tried didn't work, unless you are just pretty unlucky. occums razor usually wins in aparantly wierd situations like this
New poster! (less than 10 posts)
with an 0.4mm drill! I just checked, it should be 0.45mm, R11 turbo was 0.44mm.
New poster! (less than 10 posts)
45 sounds more like it. 0.5mm should be enough to make pretty much anything idle, minor vac leaks included. I've had to go to 0.5mm on some cars that had worn spindle seals to get them to idle properly. not ideal, obviously.
New poster! (less than 10 posts)
you not got an old jet you can butcher just for a test ? you not got an 0.5mm drill ?
New poster! (less than 10 posts)
a spare idle jet then try it. if the problem gets better, or is solved then you probably have an air leak, so check those green seals, etc. if the problem gets worse then it's flooding.
you need to check this part again.ive just tried the above out today.
i had my bro hold the revs at 2k while i slowly twited the dizzy drive, and just as scoff described it started to run ruff if i went too far left or right.
when i was happy with the way it was revving i clamped the drive down.
my bro then let go of the revs and the car died.
i went to restart the car and.................
its still EXACTLY the same- still taking time to fire up and when it does it refuses to idle.
also while i was at it a double checked that the dizzy toothed gear was fitted correctly -
[when i say no#1 piston,i mean the waterpump side]
on its compression stroke,when no#1 piston is at 0deg tdc the toothed gear is just very slightly past the 12/6 o clock postion.
if i want the toothed gear to sit perfectly at the 12/6 o clock postion i have to turn the mark on the flywheel sits at 8deg before tdc.
ive also noticed that although the rotor arm is pointing to no#1 ingition lead, the larger offset of the toothed gear is on the left hand side.
the haynes manual states - you must fit the toothed gear so the larger offset is on the right hand side when no#1 piston is @tdc.
but even though my toothed gear is fitted the opposite way round the rotor arm is still pointing to the correct piston ie, no#1 piston @ the 12 o clock position on the comp stroke.
if i was to spin the toothed gear around it would point to no#4 piston but not on its comp stroke.
am i confusing myself here as i crap when i cant understand something fully
just follow the steps EXACTLY.
- flywheel tdc mark on gearbox showing at 0deg on gearbox case marking.
- pistons 1 and 4 at the top of the stroke.
- the cam and crank marking MUST FACE EACH OTHER.
- then put the dizzy drive in with the fat side on the passenger side!
- fit the dizzy, make sure the rotor arm faces away from the block, towards the rad!!!
i reckon you have the cam and dizzy drive out of sync....by about 180deg
Truein Mart's case it's old age
Soz, I was confusing the issue. What I meant is that you need to make sure No.1 piston is at (power stroke) tdc, then line the cam sprocket up to the pulley (marks pointing towards each other), insert the dizzy gear, making sure that when it's fitted the rotor arm is pointing towards No.1 contact (nearest the radiator) on the dizzy cap.
I'm sure I measured what would happen if the dizzy gear was fitted the opposite way (ie, rotor arm pointing towards the rocker cover) and it wasn't a true 180deg' out.
You'll kick yaself if it was lol
Good luck, let us know how ya get on
Ive been reading this thread like its a soap opera! lol I find myself checking every ten minutes to see whats happening! haha I feel like Im going to get emotional when the engines running like its the climax to some tv series!
Good luck tomorrow with the new seals.
Where did you get the piper 260 cam from raj?? Does seem like you have covered everything else. (apart from compression?) Is it a proper piper or a ktec
doh! just noticed that there a cam comparion chart type thing now
Anybody heard from Raj yet?? I wonder how it's coming along for him!!!!!right, just put the carb back together,
i found that when i removed the green seals and compared them to the new ones the bore/inside diameter looked bigger in the old ones! which to me would suggest that the seal lip has worn away on the old ones.
so new ones are now in place, and so its on to refitting everything tommorow.
im really hoping the cause of not idling was these green seals!!
fingers crossed
hahaha oh man. This is when we get the trailer for what happens on season two! It always ends with a cliff hanger.
Hopefully with a charged battery its a win.
Ill make sure to tune in.
Same bat time. Same bat channel.
Yes a typical soap opera, when someone else's misfortune becomes your own entertainment.
Good luck!
Come on that aint fair, I didnt mean it like that! Im interested in the thread as an educational exercise. Im still quite new to engine work and this is a really good way for me to learn troubleshooting methods.
I am getting no entertainment out of Raj's misfortune!
lol, Im hoping he wasnt seriously taking a dig at me anyway.
Thanks though, Im glad you knew what I meant. Sometimes messages can be read in a different tone from the way its intended.
Best of luck tomorrow with the charged battery.
lol wtf I was hardly being serious obviously you didnt see I was merely 'jesting', sorry next time i'll include some smileys of the sort
No sorry mate didn't mean it like that at all and after reading back what I wrote it does sound a little on the serious side which is by no way what I intended.Come on that aint fair, I didnt mean it like that! Im interested in the thread as an educational exercise. Im still quite new to engine work and this is a really good way for me to learn troubleshooting methods.
I am getting no entertainment out of Raj's misfortune!
I totally agree this is a learning experience for everyone after all if it wasn't someone would of have posted the solution by now and it would all be sorted, I too like yourself are watching it to see the outcome, be it the cause of the problem and the action required to fix it.
My soap opera analogy would of been better had I said you always keep tuning in to see what happens next, or something along those lines pretty which is pretty much what you said Mike!
hahaha no worries mate, I gave you the benefit of the doubt. I didnt think it was a serious comment I just wanted to make sure eh. Everyone so far seems really sound and helpful on RTOC so I wasnt expected it to be anything.
Like I said, comments can be a b4stard some times cause they are read with a different tone in yer own head lol! Thank feck for these daft smilie things huh!
Still Im dying to know what gonna happen tomorrow. This thread has covered almost every possiblility for the enigne cutting out a low revs...I now know where to look if Im ever haven a similar problem!
Hurry up Raj!!lol
Yeah there is no way I paid to be a member of this club to upset people! if anything I paid to tap into their knowledge lol
Sometimes it is rather hard to convey sarcasm in text something I have no trouble with in person!
I really hope it all works out for Raj 2m fingers crossed for him
morning bump
.....that does not sound like the raj i have got to know? ......keep going mate, you will sort it eventually......
Raj,
Can you get it to 'idle' if you hold it on a bit of throttle? If so, is it smooth, or does it sound lumpy, all over the place, popping, etc.
Does it fire up straight away, or does it require a (fair) bit of cranking?
Soz if you mentioned all this before.
Have you carried a comp' test yet?
Ok mate.
Really need to carry out that comp' test, as it might reveal all.
In the meantime...
Have you measured fuel pressure at the carb inlet?
If you rev it right up, and let go of the throttle (so it closes on its own), does it pop/back-fire whilst the engine is decelerating?
Long shot, but someone hasn't put water/sugar/cr8p in your fuel-tank for an (un)funny laugh? Have you tried draining the float chamber, and pouring fresh fuel straight in, and then try starting it?
Feck man, if you were closer I'd drive over & have a sniff. There's only so many things it can be! Surely there's another rtoc'er close to you who can give it the once over? Who's the Nottingham area rep' these days?
Stating the obvious, but you are using a bit of choke to help keep it idling (when cold)?
!!
Yeah, but the whole point of a choke is exactly that - To keep the throttle slightly open more, thus letting the engine rev that bit higher, whilst also richening the mixture (by restricting the air-flow into the carb/engine) so that it doesn't stall whilst warming up.
Feck man, please tell me all this isn't simply because you haven't been using any choke, and expecting the carb to fuel sufficiently/engine to idle as is in this colder weather?!
I really hope this is your "problem" mate... but you should really use the choke flap! I don't think many R5s idle okay from the start without choke, especially in this weather!
what ?!?!?
Blue Peter time
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19718
OK people . My 1108cc campus 5 engine refuses to idle until the engine is up to temperature. Why you ask? The carb manifold has blocked up so there is no water flow through it. So the only heat the carb base is getting is from the head and exhaust manifold below.
But it won't do that if it's cold, and definitely not if you're not using any choke!
2k cold idle is about right. Have you ran the engine till it's fully warmed up, then see what the idle's like when the choke is off?
Well in effect you're running without an air filter which would no doubt cause the car to run a little leaner (no air restriction through filter) but I doubt it would be causing your issue?
Why not plumb the i.c/ turbo and air filter back in, run it up to temp on the choke as Mart suggested and then see how it is?
Whatever you do don't give up mate, i'm sure everyone has been there banging their head against a wall as it just won't work but we all get there in the end.......well hopefully
Couldnt tell you exact figures myself but the gunson gauge I have has a 'green zone' which illustrates good compression whatever that is I suppose it is all dependant on your specific compression ratio and the engine you're testing.
However you should have pretty much the same reading over all 4 cylinders.
Depends upon cam spec, but even with a hot stick in situ, you should still see a minimum of circa 120psi. With a standard/warm stick, that figure should be higher (getting on for 150psi).
I wasn't aware you had idling prob's even when the engine was fully warmed up. That eliminates the choke issue...
Stick ~ cam.
Won't make a difference if the hoses are in situ or not when carrying out a comp' test.
Sounds ok to my Raj.
I wouldnt take all the sparks out personally
It's better to turn the engine over with all the plugs out as it puts less strain on the engine without the compression in every cylinder.
roflol, how the funk are you going to get a compression reading with the spark plugs out ?!?!?!?!?
your winding me up right ?
Scoff you must be thinking of something else?
The compression tester plugs the cylinder that in under test. That where the compression is.
The others are run with the plug out to allow the starter to easily turn the engine or the reading will probably be lower and might be variable.
My Gunson compression tester states to use it with the plugs removed.
I've just had a complete mental melt down, I'm thinking "how is he getting compression with no plug in" not considering there might be a frigging compression tester screwed into the hole instead
definately fine to remove the other 3
Crank the engine until there is no further rise in pressure on the dial gauge.
The length of time it take to reach the peak pressure should be noted and compared with that of the other cylinders.
I just tested my Fiat and number one was a bit lower, but it took quite a bit more time to get there. Maybe there is a piston ring sealing issue and it needs extra oil (I think it has sprayers) to seal and take a little while for that to happen. That maybe not so. There was water slightly leaking into that chamber for many miles.
is it too late for me to edit all that away so that no one see's it ?
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