to stay c1j or go f7p?

[r5_scotty]

im still stuck on what to do? been offered yet another f7p turbo lump from my friend in manchester. i thought about swapping lumps over befor but want other peoples views?

now my five aint standard so i cant see swapping the lump is a problem however my c1j runs so sweet and sounds the dogs dangly`s! what to do a?

everyones feedback would be great

[James5]

Go F7p turbo

[J$£5GTT]

stay c1j !!

[r5_scotty]

i knew this would happen! its going to be a battle! i may need a list to vote lol

[r5_scotty]

c1j

1.

[r5_scotty]

f7p turbo

1.

[raider_gtt]

f7p turbo

1.

i would stay with c1j unless you have the money for a f7p turbo lump and tax money

[r5_scotty]

and insurance money. it would creep up abit.but would make a quick reliable five. so when you go in the garage you turn the key and instant starting.and you would know you could run against the best in the summer f7p would be fun.and i dont use it as a daily.

but i do love the c1j its a great light engine.would love a fully forged c1j but that would cost a bomb

[Brigsy]

Keep it c1j unless your chasing big bhp figures, and at the end of the day the motors are reliable enough when built right, the weak point is always the transmission. Cheapo tax with the original lump too.

[James5]

f7p turbo

1.

+ 1 F7p more modern engine, 16v, Injection, 1.8, ok slightly more on tax, still makes the 5 feel like 5

[HEMMO R5T]

Keep it c1j unless your chasing big bhp figures, and at the end of the day the motors are reliable enough when built right, the weak point is always the transmission. Cheapo tax with the original lump too.

always could get a dog box from prima and a quaife diff only cost £4000

[HEMMO R5T]

always could get a dog box from prima and a quaife diff only cost £4000

scrub that...the box comes with a diff soo only £3600

[Logg]

Unless you want 260+bhp stick with the c1j.

[philr5t]

Have you considered efi'ing the c1j mate

[danielmk323]

c1j is the 5 true character

[Andyturbo!]

I haven't had a 5 long but i wud defo keep the good old c1j for the sound and character alone, but I wud consider efi as mentioned already, depends wot u want out of it tho

[r5_scotty]

ok so anyone have knowledge on efi? expensive?

[philr5t]

ok so anyone have knowledge on efi? expensive?

Without the extra work I have had done to the lump I think you will spend around a grand to two and a half grand mate

[V Man]

I bought all the gear to do an F7P Turbo but never really started it. A few things put me off:

The cost of the parts and the hunting and gathering of parts was a main one- the ECU injectors, the mapping etc et
If you need to rebuild an f7p lump, the parts and gaskets are more expensive.

They are obviously more complicated, if you enjoy many hours fault finding and diagnosis rather than driving then I would go for it. You need to be commited...

The front end must be a fair bit heavier? Handling ?

No doubt about they are faster, more economical engines that have lots of potential.

I decided to stick with the simple C1J. I like the heritage and the way the ancient design holds it's own and I think they are pretty quick when tuned up- never a dull moment!

I suppose it depends on why you want to swap? Bored? More Power?

[steer from the rear]

I'm just gonna jump in here to defend the F7 lol

My engine cost me 80 quid I compared the prices to rebuild it and all in all it cost 200 quid for the gaskets rings bearings followers head bolts

My turbo was 150 quid, my injectors were 100 (maxed out atm), intercooler 60, map sensor 20, ECU 500, clutch 280, cup gearbox 150. 100 for the fuel pump So it doesn't cost the earth and its just pulled 240 bhp on the rollers with boost floating around 14psi on a std. Engine no special bits. It can be done cheap I think

[r5_scotty]

the thing is the setup i would be buying is complete -engine turbo manifolds looms ecu already mapped so its a great offer really thats why i need to make a decision.its a real tuff one.

[V Man]

I'm just gonna jump in here to defend the F7 lol

My engine cost me 80 quid I compared the prices to rebuild it and all in all it cost 200 quid for the gaskets rings bearings followers head bolts

My turbo was 150 quid, my injectors were 100 (maxed out atm), intercooler 60, map sensor 20, ECU 500, clutch 280, cup gearbox 150. 100 for the fuel pump So it doesn't cost the earth and its just pulled 240 bhp on the rollers with boost floating around 14psi on a std. Engine no special bits. It can be done cheap I think

Cool. Ecu is the only really hefty cost there. Did you keep standard compression then? Did it take a while to throw together?
Sorry for hijack Scotty!

[steer from the rear]

Forgot to add that was at a 6.5k red line also I don't know how many extra bhp it will make with a limit of say 7.5k? And take the boost to 18 psi

This engine was thrown together 5 weeks from bare block to in the car base map to run it in and off the renault world series no mega engineering no cams no, adjustable pulleys the pistons were just machined down, I'm going to pull it to bits over winter and make some improvements but I think the crown goes to turbo ted with what can be done with these engines......I mean 390 bhp! I was having a good look at his inlet manifold best crack my tig out over winter. Lots to do

[TNT ANDY]

Keep it c1j unless your chasing big bhp figures, and at the end of the day the motors are reliable enough when built right, the weak point is always the transmission. Cheapo tax with the original lump too.

This is the answer you where looking for

[HAndy]

the real question is how much hp are you after, and where do you intend to use the 5gtt any more than 250 bhp in a fwd car is mostly wasted with tyre spin (road use) this kind of power and more is achieved with the 1.4 but how long will the engine last,if your happy with 200bhp/190 ish ftlb then from this point of view it would make more sense sticking with the c1j and the road tax benefits, if however you are after ultimate power gains then f7p/f7r/f4r but as stated, to get good gains means spending money, fabrication costs(exhaust manifolds and other little bits engine mount brackets etc) a stand alone ecu to get the most out of it, then there is the gearbox/clutch to contend with , jc5 boxes are the only cheap fix along with a 215 paddle/plate (300-400bhp)depending how you drive/ try to put the power down before moving on to o2j/m vagbox conversion(tried and tested) or more expensive aftermarket jobs
then youve got drive shafts and brakes to think about

it really does depend on how far you want to go and how deep the pockets are

if you have good fabrication skills or are in the know in these areas of skill/trade then your wallet wont get burnt so much

on a personel note the 5 gtt feels more stable at higher speeds with the bigger engine up front,some decent coilovers and 280-300lb springs (personal opinion ) running a turbo diesel box in mine, and so far has held 325 bhp/290ftlb ,and without clutch slip on the helix 6 paddle either, tubular manifold is being fabricated in january, as the log manifold appears to be holding me back

[J$£5GTT]

i think all these engine conversions are great and the end result well worth it,like to do one myself in the future,but for the meantime the c1j is very easy to repair,and if it goes pop on the friday the following week your on the road again.

[r5_scotty]

i think all these engine conversions are great and the end result well worth it,like to do one myself in the future,but for the meantime the c1j is very easy to repair,and if it goes pop on the friday the following week your on the road again.

this is a very good point. plus parts are cheaper. so i guess im staying with the good old c1j! i want 200bhp so i should be able to achieve this cheers for everyones views been an interesting read of other peoples views.

[Andyturbo!]

this is a very good point. plus parts are cheaper. so i guess im staying with the good old c1j! i want 200bhp so i should be able to achieve this cheers for everyones views been an interesting read of other peoples views.

Good choice fella

[TNT ANDY]

Bang on

[TNT ANDY]

the real question is how much hp are you after, and where do you intend to use the 5gtt any more than 250 bhp in a fwd car is mostly wasted with tyre spin (road use) this kind of power and more is achieved with the 1.4 but how long will the engine last,if your happy with 200bhp/190 ish ftlb then from this point of view it would make more sense sticking with the c1j and the road tax benefits, if however you are after ultimate power gains then f7p/f7r/f4r but as stated, to get good gains means spending money, fabrication costs(exhaust manifolds and other little bits engine mount brackets etc) a stand alone ecu to get the most out of it, then there is the gearbox/clutch to contend with , jc5 boxes are the only cheap fix along with a 215 paddle/plate (300-400bhp)depending how you drive/ try to put the power down before moving on to o2j/m vagbox conversion(tried and tested) or more expensive aftermarket jobs
then youve got drive shafts and brakes to think about

it really does depend on how far you want to go and how deep the pockets are

if you have good fabrication skills or are in the know in these areas of skill/trade then your wallet wont get burnt so much

on a personel note the 5 gtt feels more stable at higher speeds with the bigger engine up front,some decent coilovers and 280-300lb springs (personal opinion ) running a turbo diesel box in mine, and so far has held 325 bhp/290ftlb ,and without clutch slip on the helix 6 paddle either, tubular manifold is being fabricated in january, as the log manifold appears to be holding me back

A fair and well balanced opinion