i WILL CLEAN GEARBOX THOROUGHLY AND THEN PAINT AND POST RESULTS WHEN DONE,
CYLINDER HEAD CAME BACK TODAY AFTER NEW VALVES FITTED AND REFACE/PRESSURE CHECK AND NEW VALVE SEALS, I WILL CLEANING THAT AND PAINTING TOO MORE PICS TO FOLLOW
i WILL CLEAN GEARBOX THOROUGHLY AND THEN PAINT AND POST RESULTS WHEN DONE,
CYLINDER HEAD CAME BACK TODAY AFTER NEW VALVES FITTED AND REFACE/PRESSURE CHECK AND NEW VALVE SEALS, I WILL CLEANING THAT AND PAINTING TOO MORE PICS TO FOLLOW
how thick is the head?
Not to sure, but a quick skim and at least I know its flat and straight hey.
All new valves and now its been blasted and painted its coming on nicely, just waiting for engine to come back after rebuild.
He probably asked the thickness because there's not much on these heads to skim. I believe you can get thicker head gaskets to compensate for the skim as it affects the cylinder capacity. Too much of a skim is a no no.
Think 73mm is minimum thickness. And they started life @ 73.5mm.
Just checked spec and its had a 0.15 mm skim so all good.
but if its been skimmed before you got it aswell...Originally Posted by VALE46
Depends what boost your planning on running, guessing yourl be fairly oe so head thickness shouldn't be an issue
Awesome build
Just wished I had the money and time to do this to my glacier!
As the weather has been very kind today, I have de-greased the JB3 gearbox and put a couple of coats of etch primer over it so hopefully ready for the top coats tomorrow.
Gearbox coming on nicely, I will post pics when painted and all fixings replaced with new bolts etc.
dug out my oil feed pipe and will get it braided before full engine assemblt commences!
Is that new / been re-coated, or just a very good condition one?
I had it re-plated a few years ago, but would like it braided, but local hose company want around 80 quid!! Does anyone know where you can get them from??
Gearbox all done, just waiting for engine block to come back this week!!
Does anyone know if you can still buy the speed sensor and tdc sensor new??
GSF still do tdc.
I purchased a new tdc sensor from CGb as I needed it quick. Could not work out why the original bolts would not fit having positioned it correctly. So out it came again, when I took it out the holes are about a mm too small, had to use a round file to enlarge each hole for the original bolts to fit correctly. Finally it does not mount correctly on the bracket on the bulkhead, the slot on the back is not wide enough to slide over the black clip even though they look identical... All in all not great but new and reliable.
Gearbox looks excellent. I'll be doing the same shortly to mine once it's been reconditioned.
gearbox looks good vale - what paint/primer/laquer did you use?
Hi James, Thanks for comments on gearbox. After full rebuild the end casing was bead blasted and painted with RAL905 black, I spent a lot of time rubbing down and cleaning box before using etch primer, top coat was a star silver3 paint.
I have replaced most of the bolts and fitted new gearbox mountings, are you around next week mate? I want to come round and have a look at your car (please)..
Yes I am - pretty much all week just give me a call or txt to arrange it.
Small update, engine bottom end rebuild complete and here`s a few pics of masking up and painting the block. I used a wurth high temp paint then lacquered over it.
Flywheel was lightened/balance and refaced.
I will post more pics of building up,but may marry the block to gearbox then drop it in subframe and bolt head on we in situ? I could do with some help on a strengthening bar which I`ve completely forgotten where it goes? I will post pics soon.
PS- a massive thank you to gttjames, he is a top guy and helped me out this week
Also a few shiny parts turned up this week!!
new speedo sensor
new tdc heat shield
new king lead
new lead set
valeo green box clutch kit
Done a few bits tonight, fitted timing case with new gasket and oil seal, fitted sump and installed new oil level sensor and sump bung, I`m getting there slowly and may just marry gearbox to block and put back in the car and fit cylinder head afterwards.
looking good
carefull on a new build you dont ruin the turbo, despite being clean and doing many oil changes i still got swarf in my turbo
engine is looking very clean and new
post #217engine is looking very clean and new
More goodies arrived today !! new inner wheel arch liners and splash gaurds+ new subframe tie rods..
How much were the new splash guards buddy?
cheers! think i need new glasses
The splash guards and all new fixings were around £30 per side, just wanted to keep it looking clean and oe..
I had a sunny day to myself today, so put the engine back in, fitted various new bits that have been lying around. New wheel arch liners and splash gaurds etc.
The only issue I have (which I`m trying to forget about) is I can`t remember how to set up the gearlinkage?? I have this JB3 rebuilt recently by A1 gearboxes St Neots, now I`m not saying they have Fu**ed up, but I spent an hour messing about with it and I cannot seem to select all gears!
If someone can offer any detailed help that would be great.
Looks Sexual!!
The Gear linkage is a complete R-Sole to reset! I believe the trick is to put the gearbox into 2nd gear and then try to adjust the linkage to replicate that inside the car??
Looks better than new!!!!!
Looks incredible.
Looks like you caught the lower edge of the bulkhead wriggling the engine/box back in, the bugger.
Thanks for comments guys, I have pulled my hair out over this gearlikage issue though, I tried for 3 hours to set it up and no joy! is anyone local to Cambridge?? and give me a hand at all??
The gearbox has been rebuilt so I took it as gospel it would be a case of slotting it in and away we go! the thing that scares me is that with the linkage rod disconnected I can only seem to select 3 gears on the gearbox end selector fork?
Thanks for comments any help would be great
Looks amazing ,it took me an hour put box in rev ,now move lever in rev pos ,connect rod etc ,the problem I had was the rod on the lever was 180 out and to remove the whole unit and spin round if you look at pictures in neutral the rod leans back towards rear of car that's how you know its correct.
To get box in rev push up then to the left I think its a pain took me an hour but did it in end.
Your car iS amazing
Well a quick update...I`ve sorted the set up of gear linkage (finally) !! what a fiddle hey. had a few hours so started putting bits and bobs on the car, as with any long term project you have good days and bad days!
The only thing I could do with is pictures of the starter motor heat shield brackets etc, I have loads of brackets that I have no idea where they go!
Any help always appreciated.
That is just stunning. Epic attention to detail.
Thanks mate, It`s taking some time but one day she`ll roll ( I hope)!!!
She will
Wow this is stunning
This maybe a stupid question, but I`ve received a new engine loom today (pic attached) and I had a quick look at it and it appears to have wiring for starter (large diameter wire) and the smaller wire for starter solenoid.
My question however, does the main battery lead direct from battery piggy back onto the starter live connection as well as the wire on the new engine loom?? HELP
Does anyone have a good picture of the starter wiring in situ????
Different engine, but same principal.
There is a separate fixed live from the battery to the starter, usually a thick grey cable with a big spade like connecter with one of the corners angled.
So does it go straight on starter motor with the other large wire on new loom?
Also a few more parts turned up today, as I`m really trying to keep the car spot on OE I`ve sourced a few coolant hoses already, I would love any part numbers off anyone who still has them??
Also is it only the bottom hose that has a spring in it?? I ordered 2 just incase!
Bottom rad hose is supposed to have a spring in it to stop it getting squashed and stopping the flow of water. Not sure if that also applies to the GTT as mine never had one which I was quite surprised by as I was only the second owner and car was only around 7 years old. Still I guess some mechanic at some point may have not been bothered to refit it as it would have taken at least another 30 seconds. Do you have the part number for the spring as I may try and fit one also ?.
As for hoses I am sure I have seen some nos on ebay Italy, France or Spain a while back so have a hunt around.
The picture on RHS is of the springs, not a lot of money and in stock in the uk.
ThisThere is a separate fixed live from the battery to the starter, usually a thick grey cable with a big spade like connecter with one of the corners angled.
The one on the engine loom goes to the alternator, so you'll have 2 larger cables to the battery. One purely dedicated to the starter (grey) and the main power supply from alternator (red)
Can't remember off hand where the exciter wire for the starter solenoid comes from but I don't think it's part of the new engine loom
Been awhile and had to think about it but I'm sure that's the answer to your question
On your new engine bay loom, you need to make sure the two wires that go to the top of the alternator ( yellow and purple ) are the correct way round in the plug, a load of new looms from Renault came with the he wrong way round from the factory.
with the plug fitted the PURPLE wire should be closest to the FRONT of the car and yellow at the rear
This is the fixed live to the starter.Now to really confused you as your going full O.E.
There actually ment to be a short bracket with a tube gromit on one end that fixes to the back of the block to hold it in place.
You "should" have a white wire with a female spade end that triggers the starter! I can't seem to find a picture to help show, maybe some one else will or if I can find what I done with my old loom il get a picture for you buddy.
This might help you a little more.
(Blue Haynes Manual page 252.)
GTT bottom rad hose is supposed to have that spring fitted. Not seen springs in any GTT coolant hose other than that.
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