hi people iv now covered and parked my car up until around mid feb time, now the question i need to know are am i best starting it up once a week just to keep everything ok?
hi people iv now covered and parked my car up until around mid feb time, now the question i need to know are am i best starting it up once a week just to keep everything ok?
i would probably run it round the block a couple of times if its t&t etc. keeps everything moving and the damp off
Originally Posted by Robbo
I used to keep mine under a cover on the drive and would start it up once a week/take it for a quick drive. When you park it up, disconnect the battery too if you havent already
I parked my cup car up after ND... only started it up last week... reconnected battery andstarted first time... same for all my 5's that i have owned... only started them up every 2-4months over winter.
I have never had any major issues, although i do jack mine up so the tyres dont go off or anything.
That's because you all have incy wincy tiny weenie little lumps
You wanna try and start a ruddy great V6 on aftermarket management in this weather ....
To be fair ,Renault must have spent years in all sorts of conditions to program the Renix so............. it starts about the same as usual but needs a fully-fully charged battery to even attempt it
cheers for the replies guys, how come is it that am best disconnecting the battery?
it will drain slowly, clean the top of the battery and grease up the terminal too, that'll help it stay charged longer...
i left mine last winter for 6 months, started after a bit of turning over to lubricate the engine, mine is away again for the cold weather, i just parked it in my garage, whipped off the neg terminal and i'll worry about it starting when the weather gets better
been and disconnected the battery
when it comes back on the road in feb time ill be treating it to new plugs and leads along with new dizzy cap. Then going to get a new uprated fuel pump and fuel filter, also a few new hoses eg radiator and oil breathers and get new brakes all round
then its off to the bodyshop get some work done and from there off up tp gt motorsport get the hybrid t25 fitted along with 2.5" downpipe, get the boost set to 20psi and carb and fuelling set up to match
Last edited by BluntyR5GTT; 24-12-2009 at 04:54.
better beware that when u have no alarm led showing some scumbag might have a go!!(they did on mine)so if its outside on the drive then remove the steering wheel ....give a visual deterrant
Is that 20psi carb top or base? Either way you will have to modify the second stage bush to run this much boost and not just fudge the fueling with a massive main.been and disconnected the battery
when it comes back on the road in feb time ill be treating it to new plugs and leads along with new dizzy cap. Then going to get a new uprated fuel pump and fuel filter, also a few new hoses eg radiator and oil breathers and get new brakes all round
then its off to the bodyshop get some work done and from there off up tp gt motorsport get the hybrid t25 fitted along with 2.5" downpipe, get the boost set to 20psi and carb and fuelling set up to match
think that will be carb top mate, so how do i go about this 2nd stage i was going get a 1.35 main and 0.9 corrector ?
Thats what the tuners used to do, fuels crap all through the rev range then runs lean at wot. You need wideband kit to set it up properly. If you use the search function on here and type in afr or carb you will find lots of information on this subject
am i right in thinking that a certain needle is required not sure which one all i know is that its 1.7mm standard and i hear a 2mm is whats best suited ?
also one thing i am doing in the new year is getting the absolutely rubbish federal supersteel 595 front tyres off and replacing them with uniroyal rainsport 2's
the federal are so poor in dry and wet and the road noise off them is terrible
You cant just assume parts will work, you have to try it and test it, if you start to run lean or get miss fires at the top end of the rev range in 4th or 5th gear this would point towards the bowl empting so you need to work out how to keep it filled up. Thats where the 2mm needle jet may come in handy. The only time I would measure boost at the carb top is to see how much of a pressure drop im getting through the carb, base pressure is what you need to know. Your mate who was going to fit the cam should be able to point you in the right direction
hmm it seems like alot of trouble really i dont know if i might not just keep the car at 16psi and add the 2.5" downpipe and bored out turbo elbow off ktec and maybe a tubular manifold (yes i know people say the manifold is pointless but iv not come across a car yet that does not benefit from a tubular manifold). at least ill know everything is running safe this way i could even just run the t25 at 16psi as it would obviously make more power than the t2
did you sell the cam in the end fella ?
Every single high powered c1j engined five on this forum used the standard cast mainfold, it has been proven time and time again that its a waste of money buying a cheap mainfold from the tuners. As for the bored out elbow, you may as well buy a one piece down pipe from the club shop. As for the fueling side of things I bet there is a member close to you that would help to sort the fueling for that sort of boost.hmm it seems like alot of trouble really i dont know if i might not just keep the car at 16psi and add the 2.5" downpipe and bored out turbo elbow off ktec and maybe a tubular manifold (yes i know people say the manifold is pointless but iv not come across a car yet that does not benefit from a tubular manifold). at least ill know everything is running safe this way i could even just run the t25 at 16psi as it would obviously make more power than the t2
did you sell the cam in the end fella ?
i could get the fuelling sorted at gt motorsport but its all this stuff about 2nd stage etc etc seems to be alot of hassle for another 4psi boost so i might just stick to 16psi but put the t25 on there
i might leave the manifold if thats the case has anyone actually tested them tho on a rolling road etc ?
whatever methods you are using to determine gains, are flawed. With a small turbo on the end of that tube manifold you will see no gain. worse than that, the manifolds sold by UK tuners are cheap. The price tag might not look cheap but they are cheap in comparison with a real, performance tube manifold. They are cheaply made, not as reliable, well fitting or as rs250 points out, no better than the perfectly adequate original. Don't go wasting your hard earned on one. That 4psi you think is not worthwhile, will produce vastly more gains than fitting one of those cheap manifolds.
ok point taken about the manifold guys
i never said i didnt think the 4psi was not worthwhile i just said it seems alot of hassle so might be better just stick to 16psi with the t25 on there
All you need it a bit of time, patience a bit of know how, wideband and some micro drills. There are loads of people that could help yoou sort it up that way. You dont need to be paying silly money to have it set up on the rollers, plus rolling road tuning is never as good as live tuning on the road anyway. Just be sure to bribe the local member with tea, biscuits, beer etci could get the fuelling sorted at gt motorsport but its all this stuff about 2nd stage etc etc seems to be alot of hassle for another 4psi boost so i might just stick to 16psi but put the t25 on there
i might leave the manifold if thats the case has anyone actually tested them tho on a rolling road etc ?
not worthwhile = when the work required to do a job seems to outweigh the benefit of the result. That seems like exactly what you said: the hassle of learning about the 2nd stage was going to outweigh with the gains of an additional 4psi of boost. I'm sorry if I mis understood you.
yeah ya misunderstood fella
thanks, but could it be that you used the wrong words in the first place and then tried an unfair retort when all I had done was offer advice ?yeah ya misunderstood fella
Every psi equates to a rough power gain of 5hp up to a certain point.
whoa fella i aint been funny or had a go have i if its come across like that then trust me is was not meant like that
honestly me and learning about cars is a no no because i just aint got the time really hence why i always use gt motorsport as he is always well priced and does me a top job plus helpful as well, i really wish i could sit down and learn its something i wish i had done yrs ago when i had the chance
and to add i appreciate the help and advice any of you guys on here give to me
If the boost increase seems a bit daunting you could try some ignition advance instead. Swapping the TDC wires around will give about 4 degrees, plenty safe enough at 16psi on an otherwise standard engine.
that could be something worth looking at
what are your thoughts on running the t25 @ 16psi will it give much gains over running the t2 at the same psi?
started my car for the first time this year tonight and it started first turn of the key i was rather shocked lol, so i took her for a quick couple of laps around the estate then parked back up give a quick wash off then covered back up
will be taking the car for a run up to mikeanics next saturday to pay the deposit for the rolling road day ill prob then be dropping it off at gt motorsport and leaving it there so it can have a few little niggles sorted along with get the ktec downpipe fitted and have the turbo elbow machined out, plus have the fuelling fine tuned using a wideband
Mine is off the road.
I start it every other day just to warm her up and keep the damp off. Its also a good idea to check your antifreeze levels in the coolant system as your pipes can freeze in these temp and crack alsorts of things likes pumps. Matrix's explode im told.
cheers for that mate think im going to have the system drained off and all new coolant put in, am over the moon with the car cover i got tho £20 off ebay and its spot on
just received 5ltrs of castrol edge sport 10w 60 oil i paid £40 delivered for it which i think is a cracking price as most places want £45 for 4 ltrs and thats without delivery
Thats the oil thats in M3s etc, bit overkill for a five imo. Anyway where did you get it from
ah thats what i though but its the normal castrol edge thats for the m3 and the sport fir whatever else, i did alot of research into the oil for the car and mark at gt motorsport wouldnt put me anything else in lol.
here is the place
http://www.nielsencdg.co.uk/acatalog...ngine_Oil.html
Nice one for that matey, half price
not a problem mate not sure if i should post a thread up on here letting people know ?
I use Castrol Edge 10 60w for my cup 5 and change the oil every other meet.
I used to pay £ 48 for 4 litres from a local motorfactors and when they ran out had to shop around. Lucky for me
5x 4 litres delivered for £139 from opie oils, you get discount as a member on this site.
personally i wouldnt use anything else now as my car has seemed me much smoother it sounds healthier and the temps are lots better
seems a good deal off opie oils that, ill only be changing my oil every 4-5k i actually dont need my oil changing now i only intended getting a litre for a top up lol
Unless you have a brand new engine then there is little point in putting in expensive oils .I went through a phase of putting Silkolene fully synth ' Race' type stuff in the GTA and the only difference from the cooking oil is the pain in the wallet and at 7.5l a swap that was
How do you judge whether it is any better ? If you strip the engine it'll still look like one thats done 20 years service .
On a new car yes ,it may be worth spending the effort to try and maintain it .
A good semi synth regularly changed is good enough for my 100k lump .
The oil in my cup 5 is 15/40W semi synth, and it costs £5 for 5 litres. The engine's done 150k, and is el' perfecto!
Some engines are picky on their oil, but these old Renault engine's are as tough as old boots. They'll take pretty much whatever you want to put in them
15-40 semi FTW,
£1 a literare you sure it's not Crisp & Dry with some food dye ?
Cor, it's not that good£1 a liter
is it a poundland jobby
Nope, it's a 'friendly local motor-factor' jobbieis it a poundland jobby
I haven't bought any for a few years though, so the price has probably gone up now. I hope it's no more than £1.20 per litre
anyways guys back onto topic i cant actually wait to get the car out for a little run on saturday mind you it wont be moving if this snow keeps coming down
sorry ..you started it
I was going to bring the GTA out but it's just not worth the risk in this stuff .
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