It is normal that way. It gooes to the side of the accelerator pump.Originally Posted by Slim
It is normal that way. It gooes to the side of the accelerator pump.
ye i know its suppose to be like that... but correct me if im wrong in saying some people take it out... block the pipe taken off n leave the other open?? not related to cup mod??
maybe im way off... but im sure ive heard this..
k.. im gna try my incar wiv a normal t piece under the bonnet... instead of the bleed valve n il report back...
Read this article from TurboSmart.
Page 3 is what I'm talking about.
http://www.turbosmartonline.com/inde...ownload&id=200
thanks mate... i know how to setup an incar boost the normal way.. (wiv bleed valve under bonnet instead of t-peice)
this is how most people do it...
there is also another type of incar boost controller... a 3 port... one will go to the actuator... one to the carb... and one goes to atmosphere... (the one above is really a 2 port)...
i wana buy n try a 3 port incar boost.....
OK PEOPLE... IVE ORDERED THAT BUNG SO I CAN PRESSURISE THE BOOST CIRCUIT WHILE THE CAR IS OFF... so js waiting for that...
in the meantime im gna do some more testing wiv just the under bonnet bleed valve..
then il test wiv the incar boost wiv the t-piece instead of bleed valve..
But have you checked page3?
There it is written why it can cause spiking.
ahh yess... but i havent got one of those spring and ball thingies... i got a different one wivout the spring n ball..... but its still a bleed valve... so il js put a normal in place of my underbonnet bleed valve n give it a go now... probly tmrw now..
thanks for tryin to help
But than that is also a normal T piece, isn't it?ahh yess... but i havent got one of those spring and ball thingies... i got a different one wivout the spring n ball..... but its still a bleed valve... so il js put a normal in place of my underbonnet bleed valve n give it a go now... probly tmrw now..
thanks for tryin to help
Buy the picture of your engine bay I tought you have such a bleed valve with the ball and the spring. Once I had such controller installed it was very bad till I removed the spring and the ball.
I'm really looking for your test results!
ok.. looks a bit better... i think im getting a spike of roughly 2psi no less.. hard to tell.. but its more like it...need more testing.. to be sure... n every time i test it .. i feel bait cos the car is so dam loud i think im gna get pulled over!! :P but i 'think' its better wiv the under bonnet replaced wiv just the t=piece.
Thing is now... my incar boost adjuster hardly adjusts now (obviously.. cos theres less air being bled out)... so thinking i should put the preload up cos only can get around 16 psi then the nob falls out lol..... if i put the preload up will it effect things negativly??
maybe i should get a different type of incar boost... one that doesnt need an under bonnet bleed valve.. (my brother has one on his 5) his goes from actuator.. to incar boost controller.. then from incar boost controller to carb.. and incar boost to nothing ... hope u get it..
in the mean time.. il be testing more... and playin wiv the preload....
mate is this wat u had before?
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/UNIVERSAL-MANU...item2a024458be
Exactly. Only in another colour.
But what I have learnt here there is no need for such boost controller at all.
You would like to set up your car for let's say 18psi. Than you need to set up the fueling for it. Once it is good if you increase the boost, you will lean out the mixture is fou decrease you will make it reach.
The best thing would be to set up the required boost by only the actuator. But currently my actuator is not able to keep 17psi. So I use a little T piece and let its 3rd line to air. And by controlling the diameter of this open pipe I was able to set up the boost. But I'd like to buy an actuator so I do not need such tricks.
The other problem is what other members have already mentioned that if you use such in car controller you will install more than 1 meter silicon tube to your system. And it can also make such spike. Keep the tubes short as possible and better use petrol tubes.
ye.. i dont use alot of silicon vacuum pipe... alot of it is the plastic type wiv silicon on the end to join.. the only silicon bit i use is from actuator to carb...
and even wen i hook up my actuator wivout any bleed valve it still spiking 2 psi.. but much less than having the 2 bleed valves on.... 1 is not so bad...
on the note of its better to have no incar boost... sometimes i dont want *full power. Sometimes i feel its better to turn down the boost for the smaller road else il be going off road..i leave the bigger boost for bigger roads.. (i mean on race track ...would never speak on public roads
k... well at the moment.. im runing 15 psi wivout the under bonnet bleed valve...
Its spiking but only 2 psi.. im happy enuf wiv dat... atm.. gna do more testing wiv another type of incar boost system...
ok kul... think im done testing wiv everything now.... ive changed my incar boost so its able to bleed more air while at a lower preload...
im happy enuf now cos its only spiking 2ish psi.. Im guessing its cos its got a rather long boost circuit to finally get back to the actuator (charge cooler, intercooler) .. ive shortend the actuator pipes as much as i can...
i have an idea tho to help even more....
Wat if I make an outlet on the pipe just after the charge cooler... so instead of the actuator getin its pressure from the carb... its geting it quicker from the boost pipe???
ANYONE PLEASE FEEL FREE TO COMMENT ON THIS IDEA hehe
anyone??
ok guys.. dno if anyone is reading this lol... but im gna try somethin to try and eliminate the 2psi boost spike even further..
i am in the process of making an outlet on the boost pipe from charge cooler... that will go to the actuator... hopefuly it will reduce the boost spike more becos the actuator should get a boost reading quicker than it would get from the carb??
i will report back.. js for the sake of it lol
It could be a solution, but not the best one.ok guys.. dno if anyone is reading this lol... but im gna try somethin to try and eliminate the 2psi boost spike even further..
i am in the process of making an outlet on the boost pipe from charge cooler... that will go to the actuator... hopefuly it will reduce the boost spike more becos the actuator should get a boost reading quicker than it would get from the carb??
i will report back.. js for the sake of it lol
But there are turbos which have a connection on the compressor house and tubed directly to the wastegate.
I do not remember, have you already made a full pressure test on your complete system? It was advised here eariler.
na. not yet.. im still waiting for the bung to come thru in the post.... but in the mean time.. ive reduced the main problem (the 5 psi unstable boost) now it just spikes 2psi.. sometimes 3 but no more.... so in the meantime.. while the bung is not here.. im trying different things... cos i know 100% the chargecooler and intercooler dont have any leaks
Okay, than have I earned the 60% of the offered money?na. not yet.. im still waiting for the bung to come thru in the post.... but in the mean time.. ive reduced the main problem (the 5 psi unstable boost) now it just spikes 2psi.. sometimes 3 but no more.... so in the meantime.. while the bung is not here.. im trying different things... cos i know 100% the chargecooler and intercooler dont have any leaks
Okay, than have I earned the 60% of the offered money?
lol.. no sorry.. its 100% or nothing :P .. plus u need to actualy carry the work out.. not make me do it all
right.. getting the actuator to read boost from the chargecooler boost pipe instead of the carb didnt really make any difference... so il still be waiting for the bung to come thru...
can anyone tell me about preload??? i cant decide or work out in my head which would be better to counteract boost spike... stiffer rod or softer
Simple and quick solution to your obvious nightmare. Get said in-car goat valve and proceed to throw over your shoulder, after you have found it and smashed it with a big hammer proceed to part 2. Adjust fueling with wideband kit to required boost pressure.Now after a cup of tea and a quick smoke set about adjusting actuator of if you cant get it to boost high enough replace actuator with one with a stronger spring. If you dont want to go so fast on small roads put less pressure on the throttle.
When you say the plastic type, do you mean that whiteish ridgid plastic pipe or the cheapo style vacuum pipe off the ebay?
either way I'd start by getting rid of it and using proper silicone stuff along the whole run, I've seen the plastic stuff get so hot it sucks flat when not on boost, a mates supra did this and his wastegate stopped working, not good when his car makes near as damn it 700bhp
OMG just now coming back home it done the 5 psi spike thing again!!ARRGGGG... im gna wait for the bung!!!!
P.S
OFFER STILL STANDS. £150 pounds to anyone who 'comes here and fixes it'.... not tryin to give me hints or advice then i fix it.... I DONT WNA DO IT MYSELF! im pissed off wiv it!!
I'd really like to help you. Not because of the money.
But you are more than 2.000kms away.
I've read this whole feckin thing and intended to say, put up a recent pic of your bay and let's have a look at it. I was expecting to see some sh*tty silicone hosing between carb and AEI, actuator, in-car boost etc somewhere along the line. But then Os beat me to it, lol. As he says, this stuff is sh*t and causes the exact problems you're having. What you want is as much of the original black, thick-walled hosing in there as possible with all the restrictors in place. Firstly though, dump the in-car. I had THE SAME problem with a K-Tec in-car (and that was with the rigid pipe, barring where it joins), and despite it not being the end of the world, it's the most irritating thing ever -- as you are finding out.
If I were you, I'd get rid of the bleed valve and the in-car set up, make the pipework as OE as possible (or Cup mod), and test it and then get back to us. I bet it's much better.
Get a pic a of your bay up the way it is now too.
I'd really like to help you. Not because of the money.
But you are more than 2.000kms away.
Thanks bud... its such an annoying problem... the engine is fine.. everything bloody works fine except the boost!!
since last update... ive tried NO BLEED VALVE.... and ive also tried FUEL PIPE INSTEAD OF SILICON pipe.... still no go.... im sure its not the incar(yes ive tried wivout) but i want incar boost OK!! (i have 3 different types now)
oh... today.. i found a gasket missing!! where the car attaches to the inlet manifold... there is suppose to be 2 gaskets and a plastic spacer.... 1 OF THE GASKETS WAS MISSING!!! im gna hopefully change it tmrw. .if i can get hold of one...
so..... place your bets... who thinks this is the culprit??????? lol
*carb not car
I think it could be!
But the pressure test which was mentioned several times should point it out.
Which gasket was missing? Top or bottom?
That certenatly wouldn't help matters, did you do a pressure test with the throttle fully open? If not it wouldn't have shown up as its after the butterfly
Actually its not. Whoever has told you it is acceptable to have is mistaken. Your carb will fuel for one boost level only, as you know, you DO NOT have the option to vary the boost level with a controller like that because your carb will NOT compensate for the varying boost level.
Pick your boost level, set your carb up. In car boost control is for the uninitiated.
Just had a look at your car pics in your profile. There's plenty of that silicone pipe crap in there you could do away with. I still think you should minimise the pipework (no B/V, no D/V, no in-car circuit) and retest it. That way you can eliminate the possibility it's anything to do with that lot. You may as well, you've come this far.
Maybe it's not that though. Have you tried swapping out the AEI with a known good one and the other thing that came to my mind was possible cracked turbo exhaust housing.
Btw, nice seats and good luck with getting the gaskets sorted, that might do it.
It will if the enrichment circuit is working correctly/modified accordingly.
pls read prior to this post... done all that..
And given that the vacuum pipes will be pressurised when on-boost, and thus not collapsing, I can't see how having silicon hoses in situ is gonna be the cause/make any difference to the boost spike problem.
bottom.. but i think i tried reversing them in the mean time.. but ddnt help...il get one today and see if it helps.. i hope it does. but im skeptical cos 5psi is alot to lose from there :S
THANK U!!! even tho i stil changed the pipe anyhow!
I have read every post, but in patches as the thread has developed, so I may not have remembered exactly what's been done because I don't review the lot every time I come back to it. Also, there's a fair amount of waffle in this thread and it's not always clear what you have and haven't done, nor whether you've made changes en-masse or in isolation (i.e. the quality of the feedback is patchy).pls read prior to this post... done all that..
Perhaps it would be useful to those who are trying to help you, if you now re-listed, using bullet points, everything that you've changed, including whether it was for a known good item, removed it entirely in order to eliminate it, did it in conjunction with other changes, etc etc.
Mart, it's not the collapsing that's been found to be a problem, it's the swelling.
In any case it would appear Slim has 'changed the pipe'. So it's all good.
ye i did change the pipe... infact all pipes!!!! but still think that shouldnt be a problem seeing as the my brother and 2 other friends have silicon pipe going to their incar boost. So why should mine have a problem if thers and others dont. But its a good theory. Maybe at massive boosts may have a slight problem.... but not 5psi!!
anyhow... thanks for the help people... il update once ive tried the gasket.... pray for me peeps lol
wat ive done
*Changed ALL boost pipes (taken d/v out)
*Changed ALL vacuum pipes (currently using 6mm fuel pipe)
*Run boost straight from Turbo to carb (to eliminate intercooler n charge cooler)
*Re-arranged vacuum pipes to many different configurations (even straight from actuator
to carb --- tested wivout any bleed valve/incar boost)
*Tried getting Actuator to get its boost reading from home made boost pipe straight after charge cooler)
*Changed all jubiilee clips
*removed pipe going to o.e boost gauge and blocked other end
* Changed Carb to a different one
* Changed Aei and its position
* Changed carb top wiv another (known working one but alloy)
* Changed Turbo... that has another actuator..
next... putting another gasket under carb... (sorry had to edit again cos i forgot about changing turbo n carb top)
Last edited by Slim; 08-11-2009 at 11:59.
And don't discount things just because they seem unlikely.
Looking at your list (assuming it's complete), two things....
I'd change the actuator.
I'd change the lobster top for an OE one, and also check the o-seal between that and the top of the carb while you're at it.
At mediocre boost levels? That's some shady cr8p hosing then, as I've never seen any silicon hose swell under c1j esque boost pressures.
DONE DONE DONE
Thanks you guys.... it was the inlet manifold gasket. For the record... im now using incar boost wiv silicon vacuum hosing and its not dropping any more than 1psi...
DONE DONE DONE
Thanks you guys.... it was the inlet manifold gasket. For the record... im now using incar boost wiv silicon vacuum hosing and its not dropping any more than 1psi...
Yep, crap. You do know I'm not referring to boost hoses don't you mate. I'm on about the 3mm hose that constitutes many an actuator circuit and has been a known issue within the club for the last decade...
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