Not too much to mention here, other than I dropped my Block and Liners off to get the chemically cleaned, and also get the liners honed ready for the new Piston Rings. I also took my Crank to check to see if it's going to need a grind or a linish. Took my spare Crank so I should get the best one back.
Once I get the Block back, I'll hit it with the POR15 Engine Enamel and hopefully create a thing of beauty!
The machine shop have got back to me at the end of last week to let me know that the parts were done. I've been away with work and won't be home until the end of next week, but they've told that they did need to grind the Crank. They also mentioned that the Liners were a little worn, but not excessively? Now I'm thinking I should replace them while the Engine is apart?....Originally Posted by Woznaldo
Also picked up some Injectors for a very good price, but I won't pass comment until I see them in the flesh.
I've slowly ticked off a few more jobs, the main one being painting the Engine Block. I got myself some POR-15 Engine Enamel in Hi Po Yellow and started the process.
The Block was cleaned at the Machine Shop, but it still had some corrosion evident. I de-greased the Block a set about it with some Rust Converter. This need more than one application and I removed the loose converted rust, together with any remaining paint with a wire wheel.
The Block was then thoroughly degreased again, masked off and the first coat of POR-15 Engine Enamel applied. Now the application guidance suggested that a single coat might do the trick, but as can be seen from the following pics, that was not the the case.
This was the first coat.
This was the second.
This was the fourth and final coat:
Not perfect, but I'm happy with both the coverage and the finish, but if I was to do it again or provide advice to anyone using this paint I would do the following:
1. Remove all paint and rust.
2. Clean and degrease using POR-15 products.
3. Mask the block appropriately.
4. Apply a thin even coat to the Block using a small one inch cheap paint brush. Work the paint into the Block to ensure it gets on to and into the casting surface voids.
5. Apply additional coats as required waiting 24 hrs between coats. Don't try to whack on a thick coat or the overall fish will suffer (my initial mistake).
6. Once happy allow to fully cure and remove masking ready for assembly.
I only bought a small pot, but it stretches quite well. I've only used a third of it doing four coats. With remainder I will paint the Sump and the Timing Chain Cover as both were a little ropey.
Last edited by Woznaldo; 10-12-2015 at 09:04.
I've also picked up a set of Bosch Green Giant 440 cc/min Injectors (0280 155 968) to use with my Alliance Manifold. Probably more than is required, but they have an excellent spray pattern and a nice injector to tune at low rpm.
Good stuff.I think this is the slowest burn project on RTOC whereby the process has been gradual and continual. Must be getting on for 8yrs Woz, or a bit longer maybe?
Too true Trev. If a had the funds I think I could have it all done in a year from start to finish!
Lol, I didn't mean it in a detrimental way. It's great, you've never given up or gotten frustrated with the time scales, the quality has always been there and you're not afraid to do things differently.
I took it as it meant Trev. All good.
I've toyed with a few different ideas over the years and I'm still getting the Widetrack bits together. Suspension mods have always had that in mind.
Small update:
I've finally got a little bit of disposable income so ordered some more parts for the Engine rebuild. It's mostly boring stuff like bearings, bolts and gaskets. I have opted for a larger Alloy Radiator (50mm thick core) which seems to be quite well made.
The new Radiator and the Remote Oil Filter and Oil Cooler should help keep everything in check for the hot Aussie summers of 40+ deg C!
After some advice I decided to put the Carb setup back on to run in my Cat Cam (5500325) as it'll probably take a few attempts to get the car started on EFI, by which time I may damage the new Cam.
As soon as all the parts are here I'll do a little porn shoot!
Woz
Just out of interest mate which radiator did you go with? Seen a few of the 50mm ones about but never sure on the quality from pics alone.
It was a company called CHR Racing but they say they are based in Melbourne, Australia. I'm pretty sure it's made elsewhere as there just isn't a market for GT Turbos in Aus?
I have had other parts from an eBay company called Majesty and there stuff looks to be reasonable quality too.
Thanks - hadn't clicked you were in Oz! Looking at a Majesty intercooler at the moment so i'll check for rads as well.
Cheers
Just got a nice little package from CGB full of parts for the rebuild. While it would have been nice to get lots of high end parts, most aren't needed and those that work can't be got from the same supplier which adds a shipping cost to me.
Parts Received from CGB:
- Starter Motor
- Valeo Green Clutch
- OE Oil Pump - Refurbed
- Main Shells (-.25mm)
- Big End Shells (std)
- Thrust Bearings
- In/Ex Manifold Gasket
- Block Core Plugs
- Cylinder Head Bolts
- Flywheel Bolts
I've already bought a shed load of high tensile metric bolts and various sizes so everything looks nice.
I can now get the Cat Cam 325, Vernier Pulley, Uprated Valve Springs and Spring Retainers. Christmas has come early for this little boy!
I still need to rebuild my Leda Struts with the modified Piston Rods, but study is eating my time at the moment.
I'll have to do the obligatory new parts pic soon....
Sounding Good. Gotta love new part pictures
2nd that, love new parts pics
the yellow block looks sweet btw
Nothing too exciting, but I'm still smiling
Group shot.
Refurbed std Oil Pump. I'm still looking at building an uprated pump, but not sure if it will fit, so this is the back up.
Now I know this may be controversial, but I've gone for an Uprated Starter. I think alignment is key with these, so I'll see how it goes....
Core Plugs
Piston Rings
Mains and Big End Shells
Thrust Washer
Valeo Green Box Clutch (didn't want to crack the wrapping fully as it won't be going on for a while)
Binx Manifold Nuts
Flywheel Bolts
12.9 High Tensile Cylinder Head Bolts
I'm spent.
Fantastic read. Keep up the good work.
You make me feel lazy though!
Great work, sweet collection of parts. Whats the RTX starter like build quality wise? bought one a couple of years ago then opted for the Lucas-Bosch as it was available from Euro Car Parts.
Good job .
Quality looks quite good. I'm going to do a few checks with the Flywheel while they're off the car. See what the gear meshing looks like. I'll take a few pictures along the way.Great work, sweet collection of parts. Whats the RTX starter like build quality wise? bought one a couple of years ago then opted for the Lucas-Bosch as it was available from Euro Car Parts.
Now these parts are a little more interesting....
The wonderment that is Cat Cams
Uprated Springs and Retainers
Vernier Pulley
The Camshaft - 5500325 (Once again afraid to crack the packaging just yet)
The spec sheet
It's all getting very exciting!!!
very nice indeed woz we had the bb cat cam ending 327, made such a difference over the std cam, i think these are better than the pipers, they just keep revving too
I was contemplating a 326 and 327, but thought them a little extreme for my use.very nice indeed woz we had the bb cat cam ending 327, made such a difference over the std cam, i think these are better than the pipers, they just keep revving too
Can't wait to see what it's like on the road.
take my word you will not be dissappointed, i set cam timing exactly to the literature that came with our cam which was 113 degrees but we were told to set at 110 i stuck to my guns and did 113 and honestly the think will rev on and on, we had a full t25 running 15psi and it pulled like a animal did a 14.7 at pod last year and that was with a modest pull away lol
Not really an update. More of a prelude of things to come.
I will be moving home in mid Jan 16 and the Engine is still in bits! If I want to make things easy for myself, I'll need to get the car on the road before the move!
The final pieces of the puzzle are coming together and as my Mum is heading over to Aus to escape the British winter, she'll be ditching clothes for GTT parts! I've got a lightened OEM Flywheel coming from Bob at CGB and then I should be in a reasonable position to get the engine rebuilt. I did want to go for an Ultralight Steel Flywheel, but funds denied me.
The other area of the car I still need to square away are the Leda Struts and the new front suspension setup. One strut has an alignment 'cup washer' at the base that won't come out! I must remove this in order to properly clean the internals before reassembly with new components. If I had a GSF round the corner, or even better a fellow RTOC member, I'd get some OEM suspension just to tide me over....
Then there are the really simple things that turn out to be a right royal pain in the harris. It would seem that no a singe Autofactor sells valve grinding paste over the counter!.
The good news is my 1973 Series 1 Jag XJ6 is back on the road, which is not only a very beautiful car, but gives me the transport to get parts for the 5! I've got plans for the Jag too, but that's another story......
More to follow in the coming weeks!
Very small update.
Cleaned up the original valves today and relapped them into the head. Also fitted my Cat Cam uprated Valve Springs and Retainers. I've always preferred the look of the Cat Cam springs over the Piper versions as they have fewer coils and therefore less lightly to become coil bound in high lift applications.
I'll slowly start putting the rest of the engine together over the festive period.
Slowly going together, but I've hit my first issue. I had given my Pistons a quick inspection and they looked pretty good. I've cleaned them up today and it looks like the No.1 Piston has received a bit of detonation? I have another Engine that I can grab a Piston from, so not a big issue.
The liners were checked for the correct protrusion and all were good. They were then lubed up and new o-rings added.
Looks good Woz
Dug out the Pistond and Rods from my other Engine and they're in better condition and I forgot I had them balanced and matched, so I'm going to use all of them!
Ok, got my bottom end in tonight and all the clearances are good. Just need to throw the Oil Pump on and then the Sump can go on too. Actually I'll get the Cam, Followers, Pulleys and Timing Chain on first.
Hopefully more tomorrow.
Last edited by Woznaldo; 28-12-2015 at 03:03.
Finally fitted the 325 Cam, but it was not without problems!
I fitted the Cam and then realised that I hadn't transferred the end-float located plate! Had a look at the old Cam and then knew I would need a puller of some description. I didn't have one, but I did have some steel bar so I made my own.
The tool worked, but it did bend the locating plate, but it was easy enough to straighten up.
The next issue almost had me launching tools around the garage! With the Cam now sitting pretty and turning smoothly, I went about fitting the Adjustable Pulley. I opened the Pulley box and noticed that it would need a woodruff key to locate it. Said key was found in the Cam box. I thought I would locate the key and realised that Locating Plate Washer didn't have a slot for the woodruff key!!!
At this point I had to have a cup of tea and a think. Did Cat Cams not send a wahser? Will I need to get a slot machined into my washer? No. Fortunately I had the Cam from an old Engine so I decided to check its washer to compare. This one did have the machined slot, but it would mean that the Cam would have to come out yet again!
Here's the Cam from the old Engine.
Clearly there are two different washers. One to be wary of.
Here's the Cam fitted with the correct washer and woodruff key.
I could now fit the Adjustable Pulley in preparation for timing the Cam.
Followers were then dropped in and then the Distributor Drive Gear. I can now put the Head on. A job for another day...
Love this project. Be interested in the cam timing procedure.
Really useful pics and description
I've put the head on and then set about finding TDC. I didn't have a Degree Wheel, but thanks to the power of the internet I found a downloadable wheel that you print and then adhere to a suitably stiff medium. I just used some cardboard off a beer box. Here's the finished product ready to go:
(Link: http://www.blocklayer.com/degree-wheel.aspx)
I couldn't find a Piston Stop Tool at any place local so ordered two different types off eBay. In the meantime I bought a cheap spark plug and knocked out the middle in an attempt to make my own. Here's my first attempt.
I used a nylon bolt to protect the piston but it was way to short because of the spark plug angle. I then used a long M6 bolt and that worked well. I just rounded off the end of the thread to remove any sharp edges.
The only missing piece of the puzzle was the indicating pointer. A bit of coat hanger worked well. I just created a loop and put it over the cam cover stud, securing it with a washer and nut.
Here's the final setup.
Now to business.
I have the cylinder head fitted and bolts done up firmly, but not torqued down. The engine is on an engine stand with the sump off.
Step 1. Looking under the engine, ensure that No.1 ( or 4) piston is NOT at TDC.
Step 2. Install the piston stop tool in the No.1 (or 4) spark plug hole.
Step 3. Turn the engine slowly until you feel the piston hit a mechanical stop (the piston stop tool). Make a note of the degree reading. Mine was 14 degrees clockwise.
Step 4. Turn the engine in the opposite direction until you again hit a mechanical stop. Note the reading. Mine was 4.5 degrees counter clockwise.
Step 5. Maths. Add the two numbers and dived by two. (14 + 4.5 = 18.5, 18.5/2 = 9.25). Subtract the result from the larger number you first found. (14 - 9.25 = 4.75) this is what you now rotate the crank to, only after removing the piston stop tool.
Step 6. With the engine at TDC, lock the position and rotate the degree wheel to 0 or TDC. The engine has now been zeroed to TDC ready for adjusting the Cam adjustable timing gear.
This is where I'm at and won't continue until I can positively locate a DTI.
Last edited by Woznaldo; 01-01-2016 at 22:19. Reason: Add degree wheel link.
You can find tdc with the cylinder head off if you clamp the liners down and use a dti on the piston which is the best way
The way you have done it has added timing chain slack hence the different reading the 2nd time.
You should only turn the crank in 1 direction when doing cam timing because of the chain slack messing readings up.
Head off,
Find tdc with dti
Fit cam follower and push rod and dti, find cam lift etc.
I have previously tried with a DTI on the piston and the problem is the dwell at TDC (and BDC) means the piston is hardly moving. This means that there is a few degrees of slack that make the reading inaccurate.
The slack in the timing chain is irreverent at this point as the degree wheel is on the crank and I'm measuring piston position.
The piston stop method is well versed and what Cat Cams recommend.
Last edited by Woznaldo; 01-01-2016 at 22:21.
Here's the Cat Cams link:
http://www.catcams.com/tabid/469/Def...MENTATION_id=4
I find tdc with a dti gauge by seeing when the dti stops moving once piston is fully up and note down the degs, go little further and see when it moves again, note that down too.
Half the difference and that's true tdc
I would allow for 1 degree tolerance in chain and sprocket wear.
That would work and is the same principle as the piston stop method.
I've cleaned up a few brackets and given them a lick of paint in keeping with green/yellow engine bay colour scheme.
I have also turned my attention to the Oil Pump. I will be fitting a 5mm washer behind the pressure relief spring to increase the oil pressure, I have done this as I would like to see some more pressure, but also because I will now be running a remote oil cooler and filter housing with a bit more distance to run.
I found the small aluminium core plugs (in the core plug set) are the prefect diameter, but they're about 7.5mm thick. I sanded down the plug to 5mm and drilled through the centre to allow the relief piston to breath so it should work ok. I'm not entirely sure what pressure I will see now, but it's a thickness that has been used before so we'll soon see if it's overkill.
Here's the core plug sitting in the oil pump for a size comparison.
I also managed to rebuild my Leda Struts again. I didn't take anymore pics as the procedure is the same as before, but I'm hoping the new setup will work wonders. I'll get a pic up of the finished product soon.
Fitted the new Oil Pump with the 5mm spacer.
Also timed in the Cam, but had to make a steel plate for the DTI
Here's the DTI all setup.
What I didn't realize was that once you have set TDC and set the DTI up on the No.1 Piston Inlet Valve pushrod, I needed to turn the engine almost one full rotation before I saw lift. Once I'd worked that out I turn the crank to 108 deg ATDC then adjusted the Adjustable Cam Pulley until I got full lift 9.75/1.5 = 6.5 at the Cam).
I also bought a proper Piston Stop and double checked TDC, which was spot on.
Keep the progress going Wozz.
Woz, loving the attention to detail on this. With regards to the shim on the oil pump depending on what oil viscosity you should see an increase around 5-10psi in pressure
That's what I'm looking for, so hopefully all will be good.Woz, loving the attention to detail on this. With regards to the shim on the oil pump depending on what oil viscosity you should see an increase around 5-10psi in pressure
Did a little bit more today. Managed to get an adaptor for my remote oil filter setup.
Used a pipe fitting from a local franchise and it worked beautifully, but the bore had a restriction so I bored it out so it was a bit bigger than the AN-10 fittings I'm using.
Also got the timing cover and sump on. As well as the water pump and cylinder head plate (opposite end to water pump).
Hopefully I'll get the manifolds and some pipe work on tomorrow.
Ok made a fair bit of progress today, but still a good days work left to do!
Manifolds on together with brackets for breather pipes and throttle linkages.
Also got some brackets on the front of the engine and the remote oil filter adaptor plate.
Got a lightened Flywheel from Bob at CGB, but really wanted a TTV steel.
So I could now throw the Valeo 'green box' clutch on.
Finally got to put the Engine on the Gearbox sitting in the Subframe. A little bit of fussing around with alignment, but not too many dramas.
Just before I could the Subframe, complete, back under the car, I could finally fit the last two hard pipes that I gave a lick of paint.
Here's the Leda Struts freshly overhauled complete with new longer Piston Rods for the new setup. More pics to follow once I've finished fitting them.
TYFN
Gearbox selector fork in green
What happened to the trigger wheel sensor bracket?
What we do know is that this colour combination has never been done before, hehe.
Ha ha, I'm actually on a tight deadline but would have loved to clean up the gearbox, crank sensor bracket and few other things, but just need to get it running.Gearbox selector fork in green
What happened to the trigger wheel sensor bracket?
What we do know is that this colour combination has never been done before, hehe.
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