Project Yellow Peril

[Woznaldo]

Well, I've had the car a while but it's not quite there yet (are they ever?) and I thought an entry in the project section is long overdue so here goes.

My first 5 was a Leccy Blue Ph1 that I ran for about 18 months and absolutely loved. In April '95 someone decided I was having too much fun and promptly T-boned me managing to snap off the LH rear trailing arm sending it down the road 50m!

A month later a friend with a Pearl White Ph2 had a minor interior fire and decided to break the car for parts. I saw this as fate and bought the rolling shell shortly after with the intension of creating some sort of half way house between Max Power monstrosity and Race car.

The shell was stripped of all equipment, other than subframes and suspension, and sent it off to a bodyshop to be sprayed in a VW Yellow (can't remember the exact colour) complete with std width Skeete front and rear bumpers, R19 style grill, cool louvres bonnet and Morette twin headlamps, while I sunned myself in war torn Croatia for 6 months.

7 years later and the being trailered all over the UK for various reasons (rented garage evictions, Army postings etc, etc) then finally I was posted to a RAF Base (club med to someone in the Army) where they had a car club!

Over the next four years I managed to complete some minor jobs which included fitting a std donor engine from a scrapper that I paid 250 quid for (result), fitting the wiring loom, glass, seatbelts, door & boot mechs, brakes and suspension.

In Feb '06 I made the move down under and decided that I couldn't leave an unfinished project and so imported it to Oz with me! So over the last 3.5 years I've been trying to finish the project with the new goal of getting the car fit for road use in Oz with a target of competing some form of Sprinting in 2010? (Probably optimistic based on the time taken so far).

Enough waffle. I'll try to get some pics up, some of which I've already posted in seperate threads but, what the hey!

Woz

[Woznaldo]

This pic is from last year while at work:


Engine bay now:


A heat shield I made to protect the AEI. Note the air filter warm air intake zip tie mod.

[Woznaldo]

Carbon door card panel from 'CarbonTrim':


Cheap boost gauge to give a rough idea of what boost I'm running (14.5psi at the moment):


My Leda struts that require some machining of the lower attachment bolt holes to allow for better camber adjustment:

[Woznaldo]

One of the girls at work thought my car looked "cute" (she's got an old Mustang) so I've decided to paint my wheels black until I can afford some good quality light weight rims.

Paint stripper applied:


In the sand blaster:


Out of the sand blaster:

[Woznaldo]

Final coat of primer applied but I'll probably clean up that inside rim a bit more...:

[Woznaldo]

Thought I'd try a Big Disc conversion. This one is from CRN Performance (ebay). Note the 2 x RH rear discs. Tried emailing several times but it's ok to fob me off as I'm on the other side of the world!!!

[gtmatt]

looks good so far mate keep it up , is the car is oz now ?? u still working for the raf , car looks good in the storage hanger , keep the project updated matt

[Duncan Grier]

Woz good progress, you seem to get nothing but pain with some of your bits did you ever get those top mounts sorted out?

If it makes you feel better I run the same discs at the rear on mine (vx220) and although I have the option of the grooves direction (not the important bit) but as mine are vented the directional vaines inside are - shoc horror the same way so 1 side cools correctly but the other draws the heat ot the centre of the disc. 1 side gets hotter than the other lol

Not so hot that it causes issues but found a LOT of disc companies do this which kind of defeats the work/upgrade. May as well stay bi-directional and oes not matter which way they go on.

If it makes you feel better it will make no difference on a 5 been solid discs and how little the rears work

DG

[Woznaldo]

I'm tempted just to run the rears anyway as, like you say, they do next to naff all. As for the Top Mounts no where near sorted. I have sent countless emails and called Bill Fiddler dozens of times but when I speak to him he tells me that they've already been sent yet he can't supply me with a tracker number.

If I was still in UK now I would have seen him i person long ago and had this sorted. God I frikkin hate when people try to pull the wool over your eyes!

[AlexS]

May as well stay bi-directional
DG

We always knew you swung both ways Duncan.

Respect to you Woz for sticking with the R5 and exporting to Oz. Not a straightforward or cheap thing to do!

[Andrew Cooke]

I have sent countless emails and called Bill Fiddler dozens of times but when I speak to him he tells me that they've already been sent yet he can't supply me with a tracker number.

ahhh, Mr Bill - string you along until you lose interest - Fiddler

[Woznaldo]

Well, enough of the doom and gloom here's an old photo of the engine bay that shows some of the colour coding I did on the subframe, heater matrix plate and brake servo:

[Woznaldo]

Some of the never ending and laborious sound deadening matt removal. Heat gun and scraper seamed to work best then, wiping of the residual with an alcohol based solvent:



This how not to do it. I didn't know it had to be DRY ice to do this:

[Sparkie]

try using that Grip or Hotlap stuff for tyres.
i spilt some in the back of my gtt and it fetched off the bitumen based inner arch sheets and started softening the sound deadening!

[Woznaldo]

It's all but done now (i'll dig out some photos soon), all with a heat gun and scraper took me two evenings in 3 hr stints. Must have lost an easy half a stone in sweat!

[Woznaldo]

This is the easy access way to swap an engine from car to car. Must have taken 5hrs max.


One two post lift and a sturdy tool cabinet on wheels


Engine lift to take it out of the subframe in to the drip pan waiting area.


Old subframe back on donor car (to wheel it out)


Wheel in the Yellow Peril, drop the subframe.


Subframe back up with donor engine and car lowered on to the deck. Sorted

[Woznaldo]

A nice shiny stainless battery tray. Thought it might last a bit longer.

[Duncan Grier]

We always knew you swung both ways Duncan.

Respect to you Woz for sticking with the R5 and exporting to Oz. Not a straightforward or cheap thing to do!

Easy Al

Can't believe he is still messing you around

I went for heat to remove the stuff in the boot on mine and was great fun.........not lol

DG

[Woznaldo]

Small update. Final top coat on my wheels. Just got to get some tyres and I've been offered a really good deal on a set of Federal 595 RS-R so I think I might take them up.

[djinuk]

cool project.. enjoying it

[Woznaldo]

Update:

Finally had the struts machined and put them back on the car but I still need to get a new set of tyres before I can get the car on the road. I'm after some R-spec tyres and would prefer something like Toyo R888, Yokohama A048, or some Dunlop equivalents but as the cheapest of the above (Toyo) come in at the best deal of A$280 each (135 quid at the current exchange), I have been forced to look at something cheaper.

I'm now looking at a set of Federal 595RS-R tyres at A$150 each, which is a bit more bearable. Has anyone had any experience with these tyres?

I also decided to throw on one of my 285mm TXI type discs to see where they hit when used with my R19 Ph2 wheels. Pics below:

Disc size comparison, 238mm v 285mm


Extender Bracket fitted with carrier without disc for photo only:


Close up of extender bracket:


Top view of extender bracket:


285mm dice fitted:


Wheel fitted:


You can see (sort of) where the sliding part of the caliper i.e. the caliper, not the carrier hit the inside of the spokes of the wheels

[J8TRO]

Hi Buddy, Good build, making progress I can imagine how hard it is to get parts for your 5 on the other side of the planet!

I had the same problem with the Phase 2 16v wheels hitting the caliper after putting the bigger brake conversion on, but imagine you could shave the front of the caliper to gain the clearance you need as it only just touches so 3 or 4mm off the caliper face should do.

Please note I'm no mechanic, so id check this wouldn't have any adverse effects

[Woznaldo]

I've been waiting/saving for a set of Toyo R888s but, they just cost too much in Oz so, I've decided to with some road tyres for the time being. Got them for a good price so it was hard to say no (good for Oz anyway). Went with some Bridgestone Potenza Adrenalin RE001s in 195/50R15 and have to say they look the mutts nuts.

So next on the agenda is wheel alignment and then a MOT of sorts. I'll put some pics up of the wheels fitted to the car soon....

Woz

[Woznaldo]

Some pics of the new tyres on the repainted wheels:











Thanks for having butchers.

[Kenobi]

Looking good, Nice thread.

[J8TRO]

Did you sort your brake clearance issue?

[Ricardo]

Woz, a big well done to getting this GT on the road, i imagine it couldn't have been easy

[Woznaldo]

Did you sort your brake clearance issue?

I've just gone with the std size discs for the time being. I've seen some 288mm DBA discs for a series 2 Lotus Elise. They have a top hat height of 44.5mm and are 26mm thick, that puts the centre of the vents within 0.5mm of the std disc. Another bonus is that the centrebore is 60.1mm (same as Renault). The only downside is the PCD which is the weird rover one at 96.5mm? Obviously the holes could be elongated to account for this.

The part number is DBA52355 from the DBA 5000 Series, which are 2 piece alloy bell discs and weigh 6kg.

[Woznaldo]

Woz, a big well done to getting this GT on the road, i imagine it couldn't have been easy

Not quite there yet but, I am getting closer!

[Woznaldo]

Small update.

I've tried a bit of DIY wheel alignment just to see what figures I get and to see if they will compare with the figures found by a pro wheel alignment shop. I have only measured the toe settings front and rear and this is what I got:

Front toe: 30' toe out (probably 20' on the right wheel with steering rack centred) should be 10'

Rear toe: 40' toe in (20' each side) tolerance is 20'-50' toe in



I've also applied the all important RTOC Sunstrip Sticker to the rear window. Lets see how it fairs in the Australian sun?

[Andrew Cooke]

rather than use axel stands which invariably get knocked and cause untold stress I have 2 poles that are notched for the fishing line and get attached to the front and rear of the car.

[Woznaldo]

rather than use axel stands which invariably get knocked and cause untold stress I have 2 poles that are notched for the fishing line and get attached to the front and rear of the car.

I was just having a quick play really but, you're absolutely right. It took ages to get them in the right place and as you can see in the picture, kids scooters and kids equals untold stress when tryng to do this kind of thing.

I posted an article on the old site about a guy in the states with an Integra doing his wheel alignment exactly as you describe. I want to fit some kind of quick release brackets behind the front and rear bumpers to do this for my car eventually.

I still need to make up some kind of camber gauge too. I think I've got some 5mm aluminium sheet knocking about that could be utilised? It would also be rather useful to know the corner weights but, I'm still trying to get my work to buy some digital scales for "Aircraft Loading" but, nothing short of a genius justification letter will get anywhere close.

[Woznaldo]

Small Update

Early last year I was part of a group buy for a full set of silicon hoses from ASI Performance. I received the hoses on 3rd March last year but, due to work and deciding wether or not to fit them before registration, I hadn't got around to fitting them until a few days ago!

I was spurred on to making the change when I noticed the that the OE header tank top hose had a split, so I thought I'd do the lot.

Bay before while draining fluid


Draining the coolant


New hoses laid out ready to go


Old OE Hoses out of the engine bay. Kept the good ones


Small problem. Although I checked the hoses when they arrived (number of hoses and condition), I thought I'd account for all the positions, however, it turns out that 2 of the bags I have received have the same hoses! This means I don't have the turbo water hoses.

I've managed to bodge together some black rubber EFI hose to fill the gap for the time being buy have contacted ASI and I'm awaiting a reply.......


All the hoses I have got have been fitted and you can see the black EFI hose passing over the breather hoses in front of the carb. Excuse the oil and grime over the new hoses but a good clean is well down on my list of priorities.


It seems like every time I buy something from overseas recently, the goods never quite turn out as good as they should?

[Woznaldo]

Tomorrow my first job is to get me a 25mm ID dump valve blanking plug or maybe a small section of hard pipe to delete the DV take off?

[clee]

Nah !!! Put a DV on Woz .You know you want to .
Looking good now

[r5gt1986]

New poster! (less than 10 posts)

Well done, well done, can you tell if you have refined the engine or just renewed, and whether the original Turbo. CRANKSET rings or examine limestone clutch.

[Woznaldo]

New poster! (less than 10 posts)

Well done, well done, can you tell if you have refined the engine or just renewed, and whether the original Turbo. CRANKSET rings or examine limestone clutch.

The bottom end is std from my donor vehicle but, the head has had ports matched to manifolds and some light flow work. The boost is set at around 14psi at the moment but, when I've had the AFR sensor on it I was getting 12.8 at WOT in fourth so i'll have to make an adjustment there (2nd stage enrichment maybe?).

I've still got some big plans for EFI but I just want to get it registered first.

[Blot]

[/quote]

Loving the yellow peril

[Ricardo]

Someone must have a bracket they can send to Woz for the degas chamber (swirlpot)

[Woznaldo]

Someone must have a bracket they can send to Woz for the degas chamber (swirlpot)

The zip tie is a bit bodgey but I must admit that I can't even remember what the swirl pot bracket looks like?

Anyone got a picture?

[Woznaldo]

Is this the bracket I need for the swirl pot? CBG call this the degassing tank bracket?

[Ricardo]

Is this the bracket I need for the swirl pot? CBG call this the degassing tank bracket?

That's the 1 Woz, it slides on the lower right headlight thread when you look at the headlight from the back, use the headlight nut to hold it in place. Many a pipe have been chaifed on the aux belt from the swirlpot

[Ricardo]

The zip tie is a bit bodgey but I must admit that I can't even remember what the swirl pot bracket looks like?

Anyone got a picture?

It wasn't a dig it's that there's been many a 5 on the hard shoulder with a chaifed water hose because the swirl pot isn't attached

[Woznaldo]

Hopefully that bracket will still work for my car as I have had to fit a 'Carbon Canister' for the engineering compliance over here?! I'll post a pic soon so you can see what I mean.

As promised:




Vent hole on the Air Filter Box going to the Carbon Canister

[Woznaldo]

Dump valve blank fitted. Got this one from Turbosmart for about 8 quid

[Woznaldo]

Off for the final roadworthy inspection (sort of MOT) tomorrow morning. Hopefully it will all go to plan. Once this is done, it's all paperwork and number plates!

[g10far]

Great thread to read through, I hope all goes well with your test/inspection!!

[Ricardo]

Excellent, so close now

[gtmatt]

getting there mate

[Wallace]

Good luck

Seems to be going well so far............