IT LIVES!!....sort of.......

right, finally got to fire it up earlier and after a few minutes i got a put....put...put... for about 5 seconds and then died, then i got a few put puts but that was it, but gave up after 5-10 mins cos it was lashing down anyway,

few probs i found is it really stunk of fuel from exhaust when trying to start it, and fuel pump went from a really fast sounding whirr and slowed right down within a few seconds of turning key.

so could the rich fuel smell be an air leak?
and the fuel pump, is it possable i have fitted it wrong way round, or wired it wrong way round? or would it not try and start at all like that?

worst case scenario... i fitted a new cam, maybe i didnt get tdc quite right, i measured cyl1 piston with a caliper through sparkplug hole and it was within 0.1 - 0.2mm, but thinking about it i didnt recheck it after i fitted cam belt, but marks line up on cam cover, is cam setting really sensitive?

thanks for all the help and encouragement everyone has give me so far, was a complete mechanical noob when i started this, would never have got this far without all the help from everyone on here :) :agree:

:yeah::agree:

Well done matey. What pump you using? As some have the sizes of the terminals the other way round. Check fuel lines are right way round ie the return is still a return.

:smokin:

right, just had a play earlier and took all the plugs out, give them a good clean and it started up and ran ok, a bit lumpy but it ran!:D

problems started when i turned it off.......turned off, still running......took key out, immobiliser kicked in.... still running..... disconnected battery....still running!:eek:

in the end had to pull lead off coil to stop it,

i think my wiring may be a little different from the norm as my lump came out of haz's car but i have 2 switched lives to connect, one from fuel pump relay and one from ecu, these i have wired up to the yellow wire that went to renix plug, i tested it and it is definatly switched, and without engine running fuel pump starts and stops with key ok, then a 3rd permenent live for relay, took it straight off battery with a inline fuse

when engine was running with battery disconnected these wires were live, and when immobliser kicked in everything still worked, lights, horn, the lot, normally everything is dead when it kicks in, i also pulled the fuse on the engine loom were the relays are and engine still ran:confused:

anyone any ideas on this, seems really bizzare to me:scratch:

grasping at straws here but try changing perm live from relay to yellow on and off key switch wiring if ya know what i mean:confused:

The wire from the gtt loom that goes to the alternator is wrong. There are 2 wires in a plug on the gtt loom that used to go the top of the alternator. You have the wrong one plugged in the Volvo alt swap em problem sorted;)

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by SCHWARTZ

The wire from the gtt loom that goes to the alternator is wrong. There are 2 wires in a plug on the gtt loom that used to go the top of the alternator. You have the wrong one plugged in the Volvo alt swap em problem sorted;)

---

alternator was already on engine and wired up when i got it off haz, and volvo loom was sorted, do you mean i have to swap wires over on the gtt loom plug that the volvo engine loom plugs in to?

Are you not using the gtt loom to do the starter and the charging?

yea loom still plugs into original plug were gtt loom plugged in for starter and i guess charging , but i havent done anything with it, it is how i got it from haz

Oh ok then, had the exact same fault with mine but I have both looms seperate. Gtt loom still as it should doing starter and alternator, and the Volvo loom taking power from alternator. Had the wrong feed from gtt loom going to alt.

out of interest, what does the key normally cut power to, to stop the engine on a gtt?


im going to check wiring to alt today, then i think i will wire it straight to barrel like everyone else has and see what happens

No idea what the key switch cuts power to but I have spliced into it its nice and easy to do. Are you using standard injectors?

Its got bosch 357 injectors in it

Full spec for engine is here on haz's sale ad, if it helps:)

https://www.rtoc.org/boards/showthread.php?t=17604

I assume they are bigger than standard injectors. guessing you are using the standard ecu, have you made a bypass hole to trick the maf sensor? If not its prob running mega rich. If not, you need to cut a hole near the turbo in the inlet pipe so more air can enter the engine with out the ecu knowing about it thus leaning it out;)

just seen the ecu is not standard so dont go cutting holes:ashamed::D

holes already cut! and it runs like a bag ****e if you cover it!, i tried :laugh:

right, problems day 3!

after a busy day at work studying haynes and drawing myself wiring diagrams i have a bit more of an idea on the looms..

so i checked all the gtt loom and everything is ok, checked plug on alt and wires are right way round, but swapped them over anyway but still the same.

then tried a few experiments with wiring, put a different switched live to the ecu live and fitted a inline switch, started the car and when the switch was turned off, the engine stopped, so found a swiched live on the ignition that stayed live while the engine was cranking, ran ecu live to it and started engine, turned key off, and engine still ran! :mad:

im lost! think i might just say f**k it! fit a kill switch and worry about it later!

When the ignition key is turned off it should do exactly that, i.e. turn off the ignition and hence spark. That's what kills the engine. Sounds like your ignition is still getting power after you turn the key off, from the alternator.

I wouldn't bother with the Haynes Manual wiring diagrams, all the Renault originals have been uploaded to the site in the 'files' section. (for GTT that is)

The earlier Volvo looms are different to the later ones so if you're using the wiring guide colors may vary.

had another play last night, did my head in so left it for now:mad:

pmed haz to see if he can shed some light on it!:worship:

Hi Mark,

Responding to your PM

If the engine continues to run with the key off then something else, most likely in the engine loom is keeping the switched live "on".

The common one is alternator wiring, but that's been mentioned already. Did you try disconnecting the alternator all together to see if the problem goes away ?

Are there any extra wires bolted to the + terminal on the alternator ? There should only be the fat red wire that goes round to the starter motor and then maybe a live for the rad fan. Nothing else should be attached to that. If there is, make sure whatever it is isn't connected to the switched live. Once the alt is running it will hold the switched live ON until the engine is forced to stop.

Were did you connect the fuel pump live too ? Connecting this to the orignal GT wiring with the GT fuel pump relay still inplace might also have the same effect. It should go straight to the fuel pump live, nothing else. So remove the orignal relay, or cut the fuel pump wire (you can get to it in the drivers footwell, behind the access panel in the pillar, it's one of the thick corner wires in that connector - white I think). Then you can connect only to the bit of loom that goes toward the back of the car, having snipped it out of the connector.

Hi scoff,

On the alt+ i have the starter wire and a thick red going to volvo loom, i did wonder about this myself, but have seen on other b18ft wiring posts that this is supposed to be here?

As for fuel pump, i have wired it excatly as you mention, chopped wire from block im footwell directly to pump

By disconnecting alt do you mean pulling the plug with the 2 wires? I have not tried this yet, i did try swapping wires over but to no result, if that stops it what does that tell me?

Thanks for all the advice so far everyone!

Im feeling your pain mate, i was in tears with mine for months.

I still owe chris and a few members a beer or to ;)

I hope you get it sorted :)

I would say that once you cut your ignition and then unplug the double connector on the top of the alt it will turn off. Think once your turning off from the key the exciter wire on the top of the alt is still seeing 12v and so keeping the alt running thus allowing the Vovo loom to keep power. Sure scoff will correct me if I'm wrong. :)

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by boysie

right, just had a play earlier and took all the plugs out, give them a good clean and it started up and ran ok, a bit lumpy but it ran!:D

problems started when i turned it off.......turned off, still running......took key out, immobiliser kicked in.... still running..... disconnected battery....still running!:eek:

in the end had to pull lead off coil to stop it,

i think my wiring may be a little different from the norm as my lump came out of haz's car but i have 2 switched lives to connect, one from fuel pump relay and one from ecu, these i have wired up to the yellow wire that went to renix plug, i tested it and it is definatly switched, and without engine running fuel pump starts and stops with key ok, then a 3rd permenent live for relay, took it straight off battery with a inline fuse

when engine was running with battery disconnected these wires were live, and when immobliser kicked in everything still worked, lights, horn, the lot, normally everything is dead when it kicks in, i also pulled the fuse on the engine loom were the relays are and engine still ran:confused:

anyone any ideas on this, seems really bizzare to me:scratch:

---

its been a while . . from memory the fuel pump should not prime until the timing ecu has seen the engine cranking so the fault is there as its like your powering the system up backwards.
i remember a thick yellow from the fuel pump relay, really long, that went onto the battery, permanent live from battery. that sounds correct so its just the other 2 to check.
fuse and immobiliser wont affect running as the volvo loom is not part of the gtt loom, .

just read your statement again. as the fuel pump relay takes its feed from the timing ecu, and the ecu has a spare wire im wondering if the 2 need to be connected together?

trace the wires and find out what the original colours are, i know the extentions i've done differ lol, and let me know