Did anyone ever do a full conversion guide including wiring etc?? Got one to drop in at somepoint and can't be arsed hand balling it!! Sometimes being told what to do is quite refreshing!:D
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Did anyone ever do a full conversion guide including wiring etc?? Got one to drop in at somepoint and can't be arsed hand balling it!! Sometimes being told what to do is quite refreshing!:D
It's pretty much all out there in the b18ft part of the forum. However I think Haz put a guide together and scoff was going to look over it and add some running tips? So I think Scoff has forgotten about it? :D maybe? :p
Quote:
Originally Posted by TrixNFlix
Doh! That scoff again?! Always letting the side down!:D
I'll give u a really basic Borge guide feela.
Drop engine in hole using gtt gearbox mounts
And a GTX engine mount. Frow away Volvo loom and use standalone.
Retain Volvo down pipe and blu tack to gtt exhaust system.
The rest I forget lol.
On a serious 1 it is quite simple.
Top tip. Remove original gtt fuel presure regulator
Before fitting Volvo engine, and fit feed and return lines
Feed line aprox 1 meter, return line aprox 1.5 meters.
I did this in reverse and found it a rite pain
Dave, you do make me laugh :laugh::agree:
Matt,a few threads for you to read while we wait for scoff to see this thread ;);););):innocent:
https://www.rtoc.org/boards/showthread.php?t=312
https://www.rtoc.org/boards/showthread.php?t=15754
Ok chaps. Anyone any further to a good installation guide including wiring?:agree:
Quote:
Originally Posted by MATT C Ringworm Tuning
miller has some wiring diagrams
Matt, what do you need to know?Quote:
Originally Posted by MATT C Ringworm Tuning
Ok need to know all the stuff to keep, all the stuff to bin, which wires to connect to what in the gt. I have both ecu's, loom etc, but no coil, so need a suitable coil. Thats just for starters really.:D:agree:
right, you can bin loads of the original loom, but you compromise fuel economy and a steady idle,
For an uncluttered wire and vacuum bay i binned:
Idle control valve
lambda sensor
auxiliary water pump
injector cooling
electronic boost controler ( cant go over 0.9 bar on standard ignition timing ecu, unless scoff fettles with it):)
left me with wiring to :
ecu water temp sensor
knock sensor
throttle position sensor (will run without this)
coil
ecus :laugh:
injectors
flywheel sensor
afm
on the wiring harness you will see a big thick red wire, this is the power for the loom and is attached to the alt.
On the harness is also a red female connector. You need only 3 wires from this to get the engine working in the gtt. a grey goes to accelerator run position in the gtt ignition barrel (position 2 ) yellow wire i think! Blue/white wire goes to cranking position (position 3 ) on the gtt ignition barrel, orange wire i think! grey/red wire goes to fuel pump, so cut out gtt fuel pump relay out and join to the positive wire of the fuel pump. So with those 4 wires it will fire up.
For starter motor, rad fan and switch, keep original gtt wiring.
Quote:
Originally Posted by TrixNFlix
Awesome matey. Just what i need.
to clarify:
Big red wire = + onto alternator terminal
grey wire = yellow wire ignition barrel
blue/white wire = orange on barrel
grey/red = + wire of fuel pump.
Sounds good to me. I think from there i may want to keep the lamda and ICV. Possibly the boost solenoid valve if its any use.:agree:
yeah pretty much, just check youve got the right yellow wire as there are two, or you will keep loosing earth and the relays wont switch.
This shows a few more wires on that red connector
https://www.rtoc.org/files/Technical%...o%20wiring.doc
You can also keep the gearbox speedo sensor and tee into the top half of the gtt speedo cable. :agree:
This might help too. :)
http://i808.photobucket.com/albums/z...x/DSCF1590.jpg
B3= INJECTORS
B12=FUEL PUMP RELAY
B2=FUEL INJECTION RELAY
B18=THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR
B10=KNOCK SENSOR
A54=BOOST PRESSURE REGULATING VALVE
A32=DISTRIBUTOR
A53=IGNITION COIL
B11=IDLE SPEED REGULATING VALVE
B19=O2 SENSOR FUSE
B20=FUEL PUMP FUSE
B15=O2 SENSOR
D20=FUEL PUMP
B4=CRANK SENSOR
B14=AFM
B16=ECU COOLANT TEMP
Now get cracking!!!!!!!
:agree: excellent that squire, weekends work there really. Just need a weekend free to get to it. Oh and its for my brothers five, just incase anyone thought i'd decided to ditch my car!:D
Hey you're a good lad helping your brother out marrow, good for you :cooter:
No prob marrow. Thanks for the loan of your double garage to carry out all the work. Six months should do it!:D
how you getting on with this Matt?
12 months later and its now in my garage.... I must have "I buy any 5.com" written on my forehead! :sad2:Quote:
Originally Posted by MATT C Ringworm Tuning
Ha you love it marrow! I have a few wiring diagrams if your interested.:agree:Quote:
Originally Posted by Ashy
Yes please, like they say.... Every little helps!Quote:
Originally Posted by MATT C Ringworm Tuning
I wish, ha, it's still here, maybe fire up tomorrow? :confused:Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt Cole
Good day spent today, BBQ, beer and garage time, thanks to Matt and mark for making a cuppa tea :agree:
Well over two years since I dropped it in (back then I didn't even own it) she fired up today!
Happy birthday to me! :agree:
Hope this works http://youtu.be/mY61Qlu0dgA
Awesome :smokin:
Great i knw the feeling. :)
Good stuff, was the tank empty?
Now then mate, thanks for the help, top banana :agree:Quote:
Originally Posted by Haz
Nah it was the injectors, they were stuck of all things :confused:
We had fuel in the rail and a spark but it wouldn't run, we put a plug onto each injector and gave it 12v until it clicked open, then it fired straight up :)
It died after running for a while and then when you fire it up it cuts out straight away, wonder if One of the ecu lives has come loose... They weren't soldered on.... I'll check tomorrow!
Thanks again for the help,
The injectors can become sticky if not been used for a while, ive done the same in the past to get them working but it's best to get them cleaned to be sure.
It is known for the injectors to lock on and burn the ecu outputs.
Edit: also if the coolant sensor, by stat housing for gauge, front of head for ecu one with red plug, is not working correctly then it will make it really rich, like leaving the choke fully on in a ggt on a hot summers day.