roofskin swap guide as requested written by the old man.Any Questions just ask

Dreaded the job from the start of the restoration but needn't have done, just took it carefully and it turned out well. Our car had a sunroof fitted at one point and this was the reason the panel had to be replaced.

From the donor car - screen out - tail gait off - simply grind or hacksaw through the 6 sticks, if you wish to save the aerial cable you'll need to pull it through the drivers A pillar first. Cut the A pillars nice and long way beyond the brazed joint so you have some good material to pull on when sweating off the brazed joint.

Recommend you take the donor roof first as you'll learn loads about how it goes together, where the sealant is (in 4 corners) as well as the obvious along the frame that you'll clearly see when the trim panel is removed.
Set the donor roof upside down on tressells or a bench well backed with old blankets, break the sealant joint from the frame, we used a multi tool, go carefully so you don't dent the upper skin, do not lever or pry against it, if you don't have a multi tool you could heat a blade to cherry red and melt it away.

Flip the roof to right side up. Centre pop the spot welds from the top (remember this is the doner and through holes are what you want. You do not want through holes on the car).
Use a piece of small tube that'll fit over the drill bit so only say 6mm of drill is showing, this will stop the drill pulling through the hole and the chuck clattering against the new roof. As you drill a hole insert a fine wedge so when the spot is broken the joint will separate.

With all the welds drilled you'll need to get the rear end feeling loose, breaking the sealant/adhesive from the frame, a tickle of heat from a heat gun helps (not a flame as this would buckle the panel).
Same at the front corners until the panel and roof are obviously separated apart from the A pillar brazed joints. Heat the waste end of the pillar (not the roof) and let the heat travel up the pillar, with a mole grip on the waste end start to waggle the waste end as the joint area becomes cherry red, you'll soon see it start to break so just be patient, keep wiggling and the waste end will come away cleanly. Dress any remaining braze material of the joint and clean the burnt paint area with a wire wheel or flapper wheel.

Invert the roof again and dress the joint taking drill rags and sealant away, don't be too aggressive so you don't lose thickness. Clean away paint from the upper surfaces near to where you'll be puddle welding later then paint the bare surfaces with a weldable primer to keep it rust free.

At this point the panel is prepared and it time to change your mind set - NO HOLES ARE TO BE DRILLED THROUGH THE CAR.

Screen out and tail gait off, remember the aerial cable.

Spot weld drill the welds after first centre popping, use the same trick with a piece of tube over the spot drill but this time only allow the absolute minimum to show through so the drill can't snatch and pull through. Down the side gutters we opted to grind the welds off but this had to be done carefully so as not to lose thickness on the keep it side.
Note if grinding you must retain the small lip that turns upwards on the car side - it gives a seal surface and gives the trim something to grip on.
Gently wedge the joint as you go so when you are through the weld the joint will spring open, wedge again and so on.
Get the sealant/adhesive separated on the back and frame as per the donor panel and get the thing gently moving so all that's holding it is the brazed joints, one side at a time heat the joint and waggle the outgoing panel until it breaks.
Disguard the old panel and dress the new surface removing any rust, sealant raggy bits. Paint the surfaces with weldable primer.

Offer the panel to the car and check the fit, if like ours it clicked into place. Pay particular attention to the A pillar fit, you really want the new panel to sit back from the A pillar if its not flush when clamped, sitting proud of it would be no good as you'd never make it look good with filler later.
Satisfied that the fit is good - decide where to drill a couple of holes through your new panel that will align with some material at the A post joint, either this or braze it. If puddle welding the A post joint as we did, lift the roof, drill, debur, set the panel for welding with loads of clamps.

Don't forget the sealant/adhesive in the inaccessible corners on the final fit.

Spread the welding side to side, back to front, don't hit one side at a time.

Sealant the inner frame.

Dress the welds, filler any imperfections, primer - job done.

Great guide mate, really shows how achievable it is. Are there possibly any pictures to accompany the guide? :)

Ace :)

Can this be moved to the club articles section please mods? :agree:

Great work there :) Be great to add pictures to this.

Have moved to the articles section :agree: