b18ft sandwich plate

does any 1 know were i can get 1

i tried retro fitting the clj but its too small and the threads are different

i have a mocal oil cooler, and a mocal thermostat just neede the sandwich plate.

thanks

You should be able to if you use the right bits, I fitted a c1j cooler plate to my F4R block, the volvo block looks and should be the same. You need to use the longer center threaded tube that comes with the c1j, you can't use the volvo one that comes with the water cooled type. The hole in the block is 20mm, the same as the c1j.

ill have another look tonite but i tried all the combos i cud think off.

the volvo tube is to long for the c1j sandwich plat
and the renault tube is a different thread i think.

also the outer cirrcumfrance of the volvo is larger than the c1j so wont seal up.

altho i was tired wen i tried this,

to the wrkshop tanite and try agen me thinks

I'll check mine but i'm using the C1J sandwich plate for external oil cooler and it seemed to fit on with no problems. I'll double check to see if it seals but sure it did.

Don't know if it makes any difference but i'm using one of the early engines (small flywheel), is there a possibility they changed oil cooler design on later engines?

hmm its worth a look i guess.
both by engines are from the same year so only have a pair of sandwich plates the same the same

altho the 1 ive tried so far was originaly an auto.

mark have u had yrs out yet,
what radiator have u used, more important what does yr bottom rad hose look like.
mine has a very slight kink in it, altho not to much to worry bout its still gona cause sum flow issues. so just curious to yr setup.

i still cnt get mine to start, wondering weather its worth re fiting the idle control valve and wireing that in to the dta.

it just pops and bangs at the minute

Mines not running yet mate.

I use a Renault 19 16v rad, the bottom hose is quite short on mine i made it out of an of cut of hose i had. In this picture you can just see my bottom hose in yellow

https://www.rtoc.org/boards/album.php...pictureid=5414

that looks a better fit than mine. i used an original shaped c1j silicone hose cut down a bit.

will look into the 19 rad tho.

chers mate

found out why i havnt been able to get the car started on the dta.

the head gasket has gone, ooops.
putting it down to the masive back fireing as we were trying to sort the ignition out.

also whilst stripping he head down i found 1 of my injector seals in a rather bad way

so my dilema is.

do i pull the whole engine out and put my new 1 in with the forge pistons
and try and get that running.

OR

have the head skimed refit with new gasket and bolts and get a base map on that first before attempting to run the fresh engine?

the latter sounds best to me but what do u guys think?

c1j sandwich plate and c1j fastening nut work fine. i would want to know why the gasket went before puttin a fresh engine in, and the engines are quite robust so unless the head looks damaged i'd just check it with a rule, pop it bac on with fresh gasket and same bolts. wat set-up are ya runnin ?

the heads bin in for its skim, and apparently its bin dun before dont know how much has bi taken off tho tbh untill later.

this engine was a standard item, with the 'better' cam in it

it was seconhand engine from a car i busted up. it drove well in the volvo. but was then sitting for a long time before i put it in the r5. and then tried starting it on the dta.

all it did was pop and bang and backfire. tim will tell i guess.

im gona re check on the sandwich plate cheers for the info haz