DIY headgasket, does anyone have a guide to changing it on the F4R engine?

I've only done one on the CJ1 engine but it was a long time ago..

What's invloved in keeping the timing in place.. do I need fresh head bolts and should I get the head skimmed and will I need to strip it to get that done?

so many question :)

any help appreciated :agree:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by c7borg

I've only done one on the CJ1 engine but it was a long time ago..

What's invloved in keeping the timing in place.. do I need fresh head bolts and should I get the head skimmed and will I need to strip it to get that done?

so many question :)

any help appreciated :agree:

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You will need the renault cam timing tool for the pulleys,, cam locking tool and the crank TDC locking tool to time up the f4r once you put it back together.

The service manual and tech info are in the tech files. Have alook through there should be some relevant info in there.


Edit* heres a link to the tech section- https://www.rtoc.org/files/?path=Tech...vice%20Manual/

Quote:

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Originally Posted by c7borg

I've only done one on the CJ1 engine but it was a long time ago..

What's invloved in keeping the timing in place.. do I need fresh head bolts and should I get the head skimmed and will I need to strip it to get that done?

so many question :)

any help appreciated :agree:

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try THIS

cheers for that.. I'm still thinking it's beyond me :crap:

are you sure it's the headgasket, and not something like a heat exchanger putting oil in your water?

If you're happy it's the engine just pull the head off, you don't need any special tools to take it apart, it's only when you come to put it together that you need them.

Just do normal stuff, check the head's flat with a straight edge etc.

what makes you think the gasket is dead ? The gasket itself is MLS, so pretty un-breakable, so shouldn't fail unless you've managed to warp the head or something.

as has been mentioned you'll need the renault tools to hold the cam pulleys and cams in alignment along with an 8mm punch (or the renault tool) to lock the crank at tdc.

It's easy enough, less work than a C1J I'd say. take you're time to seal and torque the cam cover up properly though. don't just tighten the bolts by hand, it's easy to warp that cover and kill the cam journals.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Scoff

what makes you think the gasket is dead ? The gasket itself is MLS, so pretty un-breakable, so shouldn't fail unless you've managed to warp the head or something.

as has been mentioned you'll need the renault tools to hold the cam pulleys and cams in alignment along with an 8mm punch (or the renault tool) to lock the crank at tdc.

It's easy enough, less work than a C1J I'd say. take you're time to seal and torque the cam cover up properly though. don't just tighten the bolts by hand, it's easy to warp that cover and kill the cam journals.

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Sorry for the late reply I've only just stopped sulking :)

Can I make some of those tools? I'm on the verge of opening her up and I'm struggling to justify the cost of the headgasket!

I'm pretty sure it's the head geasket it plumes white smoke like there's no tomorrow and there's more mayo than a ginsters sandwich but I'm open to ideas.. I must admit I had trouble believing it was the HG as it's only just been built by someone who builds engines for a living :(

You might have cracked the head somehow.

"justify the cost of the gasket" = theyr'e £17 !! :laugh: Or at least they are from my place. Sod going to Renault.

In short. removal is like this:

1/ Remove rubber caps from end of cyl head
2/ Turn engine over to TDC such that the cam slots are horizontal and upper most.
3/ Fit 8mm dia punch, or locking tool into the TDC location on the front of the block
- (Bottom right hand corner, undo the star-head cap, remove bolt, fit tool through the block so it slots in to the TDC cut-out in the crank)
4/ Fit cam locking tool to the slots on the end of the cyl head.
5/ Fit pulley locking tool to the pulley end of the cyl head.
6/ Remove cam belt
7/ Remove 2x cam pulleys
8/ Remove manifolds and all the obvious crap
9/ Remove rocker cover (you can leave VVT solenoid bolted to the cover)
10/ Lift out roller rockers
11/ Undo head bolts
12/ Lift head off

Re-fitting, apart from the usual stuff is just the reverse of the above!

Torque inlet pulley up to 100nm and exhaust pulley (I think) is 30nm + 90deg. Be sure to de-grease the ends of the cam and inside of the pulleys. There is no woodruff keys so correct re-installation of the pulleys is important.

Can't think of anyhing else, if there is, you'll work it out !

I wouldn't recommend making any of the tools, they need to be pretty touch and accurate. They're not that expensive. I get away with the cheap "laser" ones - never had a problem.

Chris

Are these the tools? did you pay £79 for the first one and £35 for the second? - I think there is a guy on cliosport who rents his out for about £25 maybe I should just do that.. I think I'll just chance another engine from ebay if the heads cracked :scared:

http://www.lasertools.co.uk/items/medium/5165.jpg
and
[IMG]file:///C:/DOCUME%7E1/c7borg/LOCALS%7E1/Temp/moz-screenshot.png[/IMG]http://www.lasertools.co.uk/items/me...7_OVERHEAD.jpg

oh and I nearly forgot.. thanks for the order and tips :) :agree:

Yeah they're the kiddies. I actually made the cam-slot tool because I wanted to play with the timing, but you'll definately want to buy the first one. Can't remember what I payed, about 80 quid sounds right.

how tight are the bolts that hold the rocker on ment to be?