Setting Up The Fly Wheel Sensor On A 480 With 172 Flywheel

Hi all

Serious help is needed please as i want to get this right first time, I'll start from the top so you all get a idea of what im trying to do and then hopefuly give me some advice on the matter...

I've pulled my 480 turbo lump out of the volvo and fitting it in the clio, i've had it in and running with no problems but didnt have the drive sorted as waiting for bit's.. Now the volvo was a auto and I'm converting it to manual..

I've got a 172 flywheel which was kindly sold to me by scoff on here and told it will fit fine etc just need to move the sensor accross...

Here's a pic of the auto flywheel with the 2 teeth missing..
http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u...i/100_0968.jpg

Now i marked where the cut out was on the auto flywheel for the tdc sensor to read, i marked it with 2 tippex lines, the 2 lines basicly show the where the 2 teeth where missing on the auto flywheel..
You can see the gap is different on the 172 flywheel roughly 1 tooth out..
http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u...i/100_0964.jpg
http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u...i/100_0962.jpg
http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u...i/100_0971.jpg

Scoff told me i need to move the sensor accross the same distance as it is on my markings, but the trouble is im not sure which way the sensor needs to go, towards me or towards the bulk head (as u look into bonnet)..
And also unsure which way to measure the gap and how too? in mm or degree's...

I've confussed my self summit rotten over this now and different things keep popping in my head, not sure what to beleave so i thought you guys could shed some light on this please...

Many thanks guys, rob..

I'll have a stab :)

Flywheel rotates anticlockwise

with the teeth where they are the sensor will see the gap late

to get the sensor to see the gap at the right time you need to move it towards the bulkhead.

anyone agree? :laugh:

Yep agree.... bulk head. You could always check timing after with light to get it perfect..

How would i do that... I'm a mechanic but beleave it or not never used one, modern stuff is electric ignition stuff so nuffin to adjust, well least i think so like i say never done nothing with a light..

Also any idea how i would measure it and transfer my readings over to the sensor... :confused:

As the guys say the sensor needs to move toward the bulkhead. if it's an older sensor you can put it loosely into a vice and hammer the metal "through" the plastic body of the sensor so that the plastic is then free to slide up and down the metal bracket (it'll still be quite stiff). Newer sensors don't work so well with this method because they fall to bits when you hammer them!

Looking at it shows its about 5 or 6 degrees retarded though, so actually just swapping the polarity of the sensor wires (red and white) will advance it by the same amount (1 tooth's worth) to bring the timing back in line, so if you're feeling lazy, do it that way ;)

Are you sure scoff.... Sounds bloody amazing if you can.. mines a 3 wire type sensor, ha i did have a old type one untill today when then box fell out and crushed 4 of my fingers and took the sensor wires right out the top of the sensor :mad:

So now i have a brand new after market sensor - intermotor is the make... or maybe fuel parts i can't remember either way i doubt it will move on the bracket...

I'm going to carry on with this tomoz so any help tonight would be great...

How will i measure it then mate... :confused:

fuel parts do a lot of intermotor stuff, so either/or I guess.

3 wires just means it has a screen, there should still be a red and a white in there, which are the sensor wires. If not red and white then you will have to investigate a bit until you find the 2 that conect to the sensor. (there will be about 200 ohm across the 2 sensor wires, that's how you know).

Yes I'm sure, swapping the wires advances by one tooth just like it does with the GT turbo and pretty much anything else that uses a toothed wheel and a vr sensor ;) But, the proper way is to move the sensor of course.

If its a new sensor then maybe you will need to re-jig the bracked, maybe drill a fresh hole to the right of the black plastic so that you can bolt it on closer to the bulkhead.

By the way, you need to move it by the same amount as the difference between the 2 flywheels, or roughly that. A few mm either way won't make any difference. It will actually run fine as it is right now, it'll just feel a bit flat to drive with 5deg of timing retard.

So shall i measure the gap this side in the photo, ive marked where i think i should measure..
http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u...100_0964-1.jpg

Or do i measure the gap starting the other side :confused: Sorry for so many questions mate just want to get it right..

Thats ok, measure that gap and move the sensor the same amount toward the bulkhead, it'll run fine :)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Scoff

Thats ok, measure that gap and move the sensor the same amount toward the bulkhead, it'll run fine :)

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brill mate, also one more thing id like to ask you..

You said this flywheel needs the 215mm clutch a volvo later type valeo one, well take a quick look at this link as this guy claims a renault megane 2.0 16 v is the same, take a look and let me know what you think...

http://volvo480.dragons.org.uk/forum...ic.php?t=17651

I don't know about that megane clutch, it might be 215mm but probably doesn't have the clamping that the volvo cover has. It might be ok if you don't plan on tuning it, I don't think I'd take the chance though.