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Right a good friend of mine has had some problems, idle was fluctuating between 1000 to 2500 a few weeks ago, now it's stalling once its in closed loop. Cold starts are fine. Saw the car briefly for 10mins today, it had what sounded like a rattle from the top end nearest the top left. Belts and dephaser pulley changed about 2000 miles ago. Engine has done 105000. I've got tomorrow to look at this. Any ideas? Icv is a stepper motor in the tps isn't it? What do you guys recommend?
Can use the dashboard to check for fault codes.
Try that.....but if the engine rattles near the timing end it could be the dephaser, or an incorrectly tensioned cambelt tensioner.
May pay you to check the cam timing, and yes the idle is an adaptive in the ecu programming to involve the throttle plate, so no actual icv valve.
To use on board self diagnostics, try this......
http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=-tEtm9M6Y-M
Thanks for the quick respose Matt. Deffo not dephaser, it's more of a knock than a rattle, this noise started yesterday and cutting out started a week ago. Got a universal obd2, will that point me in the right direction? Can the tps be reset? Hope it's not a cambelt tensioner as he payed a lot to have it all done. :crap:
Cheers Matt. :agree:Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt@CodeRedMotorsports
You can erase the adaptive, probably only with a Renault 'clip' machine.
Best to clean the throttle body out with some brake cleaner really well first, it may be that the erratic idle and knock are two separate things, these cars do suffer from crank sensor faults, so check to see if it has the later tdc sensor and loom, the originals are black the new ones are blue and include a conversion to a new plug. The originals have silver coated terminals that tarnished, created a high restance and stopped the ecu seeing the engine turning, the conversion to the blue ones are to include gold plated terminals that don't tarnish.
Hope this helps....
It's a pity you are so far away as I own a clip machine.....:crap:
Thanks Matt, knock tends to start up after 30 secs of engine running from cold. I wish you were closer it would of been In good hands with ya :agree: Will report back tomorrow. :)
Aux belt and tensioner changed when cambelt done?
I think so, I shall check with him tomorrow.Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt@CodeRedMotorsports
Just had a look at it, coming up on the diagnostics with t, injection fault. Localised the knocking sound, using a stethoscope to round where the belt tensioner is. It's been changed 2000miles ago to a new one with new belt though:scratch:. The guy who did the belts had left two of the main bolts keeping the top left engine mount very very loose, so that instils me with confidence! :crap:Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt@CodeRedMotorsports
:eek:
Oh dear!!
Is the noise near the cambelt tensioner or aux belt tensioner? Also have a looksie at the altenator, they can shatter in the top mounting lug.
Erase the code through the dash and see if it comes straight back.
Had the car running for a couple of minutes and its not come back on yet, yep your right its the alternator lug, any quick fix solutions matt? Just gone and smashed up one of the brake disc locating screws now so off to b&q I go! :rolleyes:Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt@CodeRedMotorsports
Alternator will shatter if its been over stressed if the aux belt has been changed by loosening the alternator bracket and prised out of the top mounting..... Seen it quite often.
Another alternator is the best fix. Also while you are there, check the lower cambelt cover, they can be a pain to remove if not done properly and most get broken.....
New brake disc put on now after drilling out the old locater screw. He's driven it for 20 miles with no more faults, so that's looking good. Just need to sort that annoying knock from the alternator locating lug.
Thanks Matt, I shall see what he wants to do, appreciate all your help. :):agree:Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt@CodeRedMotorsports
No worries.;)