Turbo problems t2

I suspect my standard turbo t2 is fecked. When we pulled the engine out the Volvo there was signs of a bit of oil in the pipes. I did have a t2 given to me with the car, but did not fit that one and stuck with the one of the engine.

Since running the car in i have been taking it slow, but have noticed my car only running 4psi i tried to put the boost controller on to increase boost a little, but got no increase at all. Gary then mentioned i may not have enough load on the actuator. I took of the clip and closed the waste gate and the rod had sufficient on it to just open the actuator a bit, nevertheless i turned it a few more turns to shorten the bar, probably another 3-4mm.

I thought it best to take of the boost controller as i have no idea how far in or out it should be wound and do not want to blow it up.

When taking the boost controller off i noticed oil in the vac pipes so im guessing its being pumped through the vac outlet out of the turbo.

This must not be normal, what do you reckon guys, it would explain why the boost would not rise when i tried to increase it. The car does not smoke on tick over or even driving it :confused:

phil

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Originally Posted by philg

Gary then mentioned i may not have enough load on the actuator. I took of the clip and closed the waste gate and the rod had sufficient on it to just open the actuator a bit, nevertheless i turned it a few more turns to shorten the bar, probably another 3-4mm.


phil

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When the actuator rod is off the wastegate and the actuator sits as normal how far is the gap between the actuator eyelet and the wastegate lever pin? I;e centre of the hole to the centre of the pin on the wastegate lever.

Also when the actuator is on the wastegate is is clamping it shut isn't it? Only ask as got little confused on how you meant it had enough on there to open it up abit

sorry im not making myself clear, new to this :)

the rod is approx 3-4 ml short with the wategate shut, i then have to pull the rod out this amount to get it back on.

Make sense?

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Originally Posted by philg

sorry im not making myself clear, new to this :)

the rod is approx 3-4 ml short with the wategate shut, i then have to pull the rod out this amount to get it back on.

Make sense?

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Ah yeah got it now mate. ;)

Shorten it alot more mate,it sounds like it needs a fair bit more preload on the actuator turn it in till its nearly a full hole out this should give you abit more boost.

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Originally Posted by Markey Mark (BD)

Ah yeah got it now mate. ;)

Shorten it alot more mate,it sounds like it needs a fair bit more preload on the actuator turn it in till its nearly a full hole out this should give you abit more boost.

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What about the oil, is that normal?

This is the spare t2 in the garage, i have altered the one on the car to pretty much match this as the rod was longer on the cars turbo.

Or should i shorten some more?

It is normal to find alittle oil in the compressor side on an older used turbo which has more than likely been fitted since new, how much oil are we talking about though?

Trying to think on the Volvo engine does the breather system go back into the air intake? I should know but its been 3yrs since i took all mine off and threw it away. :D
Refernece the pic mate, i'd shorten it abit more. Turn it in bit by bit till the boost raise's to he level you want. If it starts creeping down when hitting full boost then means actuator is abit weak, lengthen rod abit then bleed it off abit to see what it does.

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Originally Posted by Markey Mark (BD)

It is normal to find alittle oil in the compressor side on an older used turbo which has more than likely been fitted since new, how much oil are we talking about though?

Trying to think on the Volvo engine does the breather system go back into the air intake? I should know but its been 3yrs since i took all mine off and threw it away. :D

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There was enough to notice it but it did not drip back out the vac pipes i took of the boost controller.

As for the breather system i have removed mine to along with the recerc valve, nothing but air passing in that end now straight from the air filter.

i have mine about 10mm shorter T2/25. I have a spare volvo t2 if the other one you have is also no good. Have you done a pressure test on the boost circuit to eliminate any possibility of leaks?

If you have no breather pipe going into it then the oil can only come from the compressor side of the turbo, what i would say is give it all a good clean out then use the car see how much it is leaking out. could be a build up of oil over the years or it could be recent stuff.

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Originally Posted by SCHWARTZ

i have mine about 10mm shorter T2/25. I have a spare volvo t2 if the other one you have is also no good. Have you done a pressure test on the boost circuit to eliminate any possibility of leaks?

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I have not done this gary, is it easy to do?

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Originally Posted by Markey Mark (BD)

If you have no breather pipe going into it then the oil can only come from the compressor side of the turbo, what i would say is give it all a good clean out then use the car see how much it is leaking out. could be a build up of oil over the years or it could be recent stuff.

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So if its getting to the compressor side without the breather then thats bad, so if i whip of the pipe attached to compressor side and its oily it should give me an idea on if the turbos had it, correct?

sorry newbie here :)

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Originally Posted by philg

So if its getting to the compressor side without the breather then thats bad, so if i whip of the pipe attached to compressor side and its oily it should give me an idea on if the turbos had it, correct?

sorry newbie here :)

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:agree: If there is oil in there might be worth cleaning it out, use the car for bit then recheck it to see if it has come back out and by how much.

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Originally Posted by Markey Mark (BD)

:agree: If there is oil in there might be worth cleaning it out, use the car for bit then recheck it to see if it has come back out and by how much.

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Will do markey, i will keep this updated.

If its shot, i have real dilemmas what to put on, i would love to drive the car first with the t2 and 16psi to see how it feels. I do fancy a larger t25 or t28, im just worried if i go down that road next it will be a new clutch etc.

I have just spent 11 months building the car, i don't really fancy pulling it back out to change a clutch. The clutch that went in was a nearly new 215 valeo green.

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Originally Posted by SCHWARTZ

i have mine about 10mm shorter T2/25. I have a spare volvo t2 if the other one you have is also no good. Have you done a pressure test on the boost circuit to eliminate any possibility of leaks?

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Is that 10mm shorter than what i have ref picture, what psi does that produce gary?

you need a compressor. block the inlet on the turbo and put a line from a compressor to somewhere on the plenum get it to 2bar ish and listen for leaks;) No 10mm from centre of the hole to the centre of pin, I will prob have to shorten it even more but i dont want it to boost to high as i havnt given it a proper drive yet.

i am using a t2t25 with single port actuator so will be completly different to yours. I havnt driven it properly to find out psi it will produce but was like that on the c1j and was at around 14psi;)

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Originally Posted by SCHWARTZ

you need a compressor. block the inlet on the turbo and put a line from a compressor to somewhere on the plenum get it to 2bar ish and listen for leaks;) No 10mm from centre of the hole to the centre of pin, I will prob have to shorten it even more but i dont want it to boost to high as i havnt given it a proper drive yet.

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thanks gary ;)

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Originally Posted by SCHWARTZ

you need a compressor. block the inlet on the turbo and put a line from a compressor to somewhere on the plenum get it to 2bar ish and listen for leaks;)

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pressurising the system more than what the actuator is set to will result in the wastegate opening and letting all the air out from there.

Wound up the actuator a little more, probably 4 more turns. Car has an increase 5psi now:laugh: I think there is only about 2cm worth of thread left on the rod, should i really be going that far to get up to 16psi?

phil

Sounds like the actuator is abit weak, could do with a slightly stronger one.

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Originally Posted by Markey Mark (BD)

Sounds like the actuator is abit weak, could do with a slightly stronger one.

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Any suggestions, do i look for one sutable for a t2 or look for one that would go on a t28 if i decide to go that route?

pull the rod on both the actuators that you have see if the one off the car is stronger;)

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Originally Posted by i l k e r

pressurising the system more than what the actuator is set to will result in the wastegate opening and letting all the air out from there.

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:ashamed: and remove the the line to the actuator:laugh:

Update, 2 people advised me just whip of my vac pipe off the actuator see if the turbo winds up more, I took it easy with it being a new engine, half throttled it and saw 15psi with ease.

Good it sound sexy, its like a boost explosion under the bonnet and dare i say, it sounds nicer that the evos did :D

Im going to wind that rod up some more till i get 10psi then get my 1000 miles on her.

Then let the fun commence, think the t28 might just go on the back burner for now :burnrubber:

wind the rod in matey and get a bleed valve that should help, the actuator just isnt strong enough;)

Wound the rod in some more till only about 1cm of thread left on the bar, still 5psi, im guessing the actuator is no good, it must be knackered :crap:

What is a good upgrade actuator for the t2?

phil

Another standard actuator :)

just had a quick look for a standard t2 actuator.

Could someone explain in layman's terms how adjusting the boost on a new actuator will differ from using mine i have now and bleeding the rest of with a mbc? Will this have the same effect on boost and will it affect any fuelling via my ecu doing it a different way?

thanks

Sorry forgot to mention for those who dont know i have a volvo 1.7 b18ft in her

a bleed valve just fools the actuator allowing more boost whats your fuling been set up too? ie boost pressure

What's a bleed valve and where does it go?

A bleed valve is put in the pipe that controls the actuator on the turbo to make it open the wastegate at a higher pressure than it would normally do so. This results in the boost pressure produced by the turbo being higher. It works by literally 'bleeding' off a portion of the air, so that the actuator gets a lower pressure than there is at the carb top. It goes in the pipe that goes from the carb top to the front port on the actuator. Normally it's fitted under the bonnet, but there is a version that you can mount on the dashboard (ie with long pipes), so you can increase the boost when you need it (eg for overtaking), and drop it back down to normal for normal running. However it's recommended that you fit a limiter to prevent you opening up the valve beyond a safe limit.

https://www.rtoc.org/boards/showthrea...ht=bleed+valve

are you using the standard set up with a bleed valve in line or have you done away with everything and just taken the line from the compressor to the actuator with bleed valve in line? If not do that;)

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Originally Posted by SCHWARTZ

are you using the standard set up with a bleed valve in line or have you done away with everything and just taken the line from the compressor to the actuator with bleed valve in line? If not do that;)

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Yeah done away with electric crap of the volvo, just put on mbc between the compressor and the actuator, i must have had the mbc on the wrong way round :ashamed: boost will go up and down now with adjustment.

What i have done is put some more length back on the actuator rod more like it was before i started messing, i have about 10mm between the hole and pin like you have and just bleed the rest off via mbc. Can now hit 11psi and hold 10psi.

Thats fine for now till i get some miles on her.

is there any problems with fuelling by using the mbc instead of adjusting the actuator rod?

phil

na actuator rod and bleed valve adjustment will be the same for fueling matey;)

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Originally Posted by SCHWARTZ

na actuator rod and bleed valve adjustment will be the same for fueling matey;)

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Thanks, god im new at this :ashamed:

is the mbc one the one with a little cube that goes in the line then has a hose off of it to a controller?

no wait i think thats a turbo smart one:crap::D

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Originally Posted by SCHWARTZ

is the mbc one the one with a little cube that goes in the line then has a hose off of it to a controller?

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I bought it from ebay, it has the ball and spring in which is more like a dawes device, more reliable than bleed valves i have been told :)

thats ok then (i guess never seen one) i know people have had problems with the turbo smart ones.

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Originally Posted by philg

Thanks, god im new at this :ashamed:

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Gay at this more like. :cooter:
:laugh:

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Originally Posted by TrixNFlix

Gay at this more like. :cooter:
:laugh:

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:laugh: what was wrong with 15psi:wasntme::D