Turbo Toaster

New poster! (less than 10 posts)

Since my thread off the old site has been lost I guess I should start afreash 1

Well this is the turbo toaster, a 1986 phase 1 GTTurbo in pearl white

https://www.rtoc.org/boards/picture.p...&pictureid=635

So what am I doing to it now, well if you've looked at my profile you'll see some interesting entries on my spec list, yep its EFI time baby:D
This is how she currently looks, 2 thirds of the way through the conversion, roll on wednesday when she goes to Emerald for mapping


https://www.rtoc.org/boards/picture.p...&pictureid=810

that plenum looks tiny? or is it the picture?

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Originally Posted by Adey aka Ewok

that plenum looks tiny? or is it the picture?

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it looks small and oval, but I think it may be round and chamfered.

looking good :) injectors might be in a bit steep for my liking, but I'm no manifold expert :)

New poster! (less than 10 posts)

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Originally Posted by Adey aka Ewok

that plenum looks tiny? or is it the picture?

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We actually did a test by blocking all the holes in it and filling it with water, we did the same with the stock manifold and the injection 1 was nearly a 1/4 of a litre larger.

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Originally Posted by Scoff

looking good :) injectors might be in a bit steep for my liking, but I'm no manifold expert :)

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They may not be but there is 1 for each cyclinder so thats gotta be good

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there is 1 for each cyclinder so thats gotta be good
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definately a good start :)

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Originally Posted by Scoff

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there is 1 for each cyclinder so thats gotta be good
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definately a good start :)

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yep, the dizzy is gone aswell and the throttle body is much larger 2, I nicked it straight from a Mitsubishi Starion

Here's a side on pic of the manifold, yes the injectors are steep Scoff but the boosted air will carry the fuel into the head no probs, we even got a chap who used to work for the seat WRC rally team back in the mid nineties and he said it would be fine if I run enough BOOST:D

https://www.rtoc.org/boards/picture.p...&pictureid=634

Credit me some basic knowledge of manifolds, it isn't your boosted-air I'm worried about ;)

Its a bad thing to assume stuff, like the person your talking to a) knows nothing (me) or b) knows everything (your WRC friend)

Hopefully it'll be OK, but if you struggle to map it at low load then you'll know where to look :)

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Originally Posted by Os8472

Here's a side on pic of the manifold, yes the injectors are steep Scoff but the boosted air will carry the fuel into the head no probs, we even got a chap who used to work for the seat WRC rally team back in the mid nineties and he said it would be fine if I run enough BOOST:D

https://www.rtoc.org/boards/picture.p...&pictureid=634

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Looking good mate :)

with regards to manifold design a good rule of thumb is......

• Each runner should hold the capacity of one cylinder.
• The plenum chamber should hold the capacity of the engine.

Chris:)

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Originally Posted by Scoff

Credit me some basic knowledge of manifolds, it isn't your boosted-air I'm worried about ;)

Its a bad thing to assume stuff, like the person your talking to a) knows nothing (me) or b) knows everything (your WRC friend)

Hopefully it'll be OK, but if you struggle to map it at low load then you'll know where to look :)

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Wo wo wo I'm not trying to say I know more than you Scoff, there ain't a chance of that happening, I'm just telling you what I've been told and the fact that the guy that actually built the manifold does this kinda thing all day long (you should see his Lancer, a custom marvel) and has so far not had any probs with his work, yeah I know you shouldn't belive everythin your told by "experts" but in this case I wouldn't have a clue where to even start so I'm having to take a leap of faith and if it don't work then he will recive a good shoeing

Well its done, my R5 now runs EFI :D she runs sweet as, starts first time everytime and there was no problem mapping the VNT but the clutch decided it was gunna start slipping before we could finish a full map so for the time being its got a 4grand rev limit to stop me breaking somit and as soon as I get the chance o change the clutch it'll go back for final mapping, this does mean I won't be on the track at National day though:(

Sounds good mate.......Come on Oli, you can do the clutch before Nat Day ??? :D:)

lets see what it does on the track :)

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Originally Posted by Kris M

Sounds good mate.......Come on Oli, you can do the clutch before Nat Day ??? :D:)

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Yeah I could get the clutch done but I'd only be able to get another 480T jobbie in time and there wouldn't be time to get the mapping finished:(

oh well maybe next year

Oh my god, I just drove the 5 properly for the first time since I converted it to EFI, yeah the mapping isn't finished cus of the clutch but she don't have take off and thats off boost, when the boost hits all hell breaks lose and thats just 14psi:eek:

I'm scared:scared::scared::scared:

I can only begin to imagine how fast it must feel, well done :)

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Originally Posted by Scoff

I can only begin to imagine how fast it must feel, well done :)

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Its not in the league of yours but I have felt acceleration like that since I had a go in an ariel atom

I really am scared:scared::scared::scared:

don't be scared......enjoy the fear.........

thats why God gave you a muscle round your ar5ehole

New poster! (less than 10 posts)

Is it that much of a difference between a carb and E.F.I?:scared:

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Originally Posted by paul b

don't be scared......enjoy the fear.........

thats why God gave you a muscle round your ar5ehole

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:laugh:

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Originally Posted by paul b

don't be scared......enjoy the fear.........

thats why God gave you a muscle round your ar5ehole

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:scared::laugh::laugh::laugh:

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Originally Posted by BlueFish5Gt

New poster! (less than 10 posts)

Is it that much of a difference between a carb and E.F.I?:scared:

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Dunno fully yet but off boost power is defo up and when the boost starts to build it seems to pull harder, having the bigger throttle body has gotta make a difference to low end torque, could just be my carb was overfueling alot

it should make a big difference off boost, engines don't like to suck through straws.

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Originally Posted by Andrew Cooke

it should make a big difference off boost, engines don't like to suck through straws.

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I've defo noticed a difference but the mapping isn't finished yet so there still more to come

And I'm still scared:scared:

New poster! (less than 10 posts)

get a clip of a run soon.or a graph of the final mapping session.

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Originally Posted by newbstar*

New poster! (less than 10 posts)

get a clip of a run soon.or a graph of the final mapping session.

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I'll be at ND so you can see it running in the metal yaself

Get to pod my friend... would like to see your traps before winter.....;)

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Originally Posted by Rob@Backyardracing

Get to pod my friend... would like to see your traps before winter.....;)

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Thats the plan:D

11th???????:)

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Originally Posted by Rob@Backyardracing

11th???????:)

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Doubtfull, I'm gunna do the clutch on the 4th and the mapping will need finishing befoe any 1/4mile fun can begin

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Originally Posted by paul b

don't be scared......enjoy the fear.........

thats why God gave you a muscle round your ar5ehole

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:laugh:

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Originally Posted by paul b

don't be scared......enjoy the fear.........

thats why God gave you a muscle round your ar5ehole

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Its gotta be said, that is gunna go down as the best qoute in the entire RTOC history:laugh::laugh::laugh:

Still don't know why I won when that mint R21 in black was there but I ain't half feeling smug

https://www.rtoc.org/boards/picture.p...pictureid=1261

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Originally Posted by Os8472

Its gotta be said, that is gunna go down as the best qoute in the entire RTOC history:laugh::laugh::laugh:

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and after Mallory you its a statement as well as a quote....
ROFPMSL

Well the taster has been held for 3 weeks since I fitted the new clutch, the first time I tried to drive it, it stalled and wouldn't restart, due to my change in status I didn't even look at it, just pushed it back in the garage and left it but 2day I got myself into gear and got on with trying to fix and what a dumb arse I am, it was a stupid little problem that I should've spotted straight away had my mind been on the job in hand, see guys this why women are evil, they take ya mind off ya car:sad2:

Just got back from emerald after what should have been the final mapping session but the toaster decided this was not to be, first off we could stop the vnt overboosting, Dave's underware suffered major damage when it hit 26psi:eek:

By taking it off the dyno it sorted itself out so we went to put it back on when we noticed the large puddle of oil directly under where the bottom pulley is, there was oil everywhere :( whats worse is I only resealed the the timing cover and replaced the oil seal for the bottom pulley on saturday, can't see where its coming from and it only seems to happen at high oil pressure:(

But I gotta say its gettin faster, at only 10psi I saw 170wheel horse power at 1 point and thats before we tried winding up the boost

Now because of the slight problems I had on the dyno on monday my 5 still has a 4500rpm rev limit for safety reasons I wasn't expecting it to beat anythin but 2day I was tailgated by a a Jag XJ6 for a couple of miles when we came to a round about that exits onto a dual carage way and I knew the Jag was gunna for it so I put my foot down and bugger me if I didn't pull away from it like he was stood still:D

well done fella car is coming along nice :cool:

what sort of power are you aiming for ? the mapping sessions can be very frustrating for the operator all the stop starting finding the little things needing looked at that are only highlighted once its seeing some revs, im almost over that bit now , ive just to try get some more miles on mine , get some fuel cosumption figures and drive it , then ill take it back for a final check of the map and maybe a few tweeks .

Dunno what to expect power wise, it'll make as much as it makes, I'd like 200wheel horse power but I'll have to wait and see.

How's yours going Mud? if you've got a finished ignition map I might want to nick it

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Originally Posted by Os8472

How's yours going Mud? if you've got a finished ignition map I might want to nick it

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you might want to, but that would be a very bad idea, your engine is too different to Mud's to even consider doing that.

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Originally Posted by Andrew Cooke

you might want to, but that would be a very bad idea, your engine is too different to Mud's to even consider doing that.

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True but it can be changed to suit mine

Right I've sorted the oil leak that ended the last mapping sesion early, turns out it was the rubber seal between the bottom of the timing cover and the sump.

With help from JP and his LM-1 We've been able to raise my rev limit safetly to 5500rpm to make the car abit more fun before it goes back to emerald, but I'm now having major boost creep problems, the VNT boosts to 11psi as normal but as the revs climb past 4000rpm it creeps up fast, by 5500rpm its nearly 25psi, anyone got any ideas why this is happening now when it never did on the carb?

Could the throttle body be too big? or is there somit else I should look for?

did you ever check the boost at the carb top? It might just be that now you've removed the 25mm restrictor the boost is getting to the inlet.

Throttle size shouldn't give you boost creep, lack of flow through the turbine will.

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Originally Posted by Andrew Cooke

did you ever check the boost at the carb top? It might just be that now you've removed the 25mm restrictor the boost is getting to the inlet.

Throttle size shouldn't give you boost creep, lack of flow through the turbine will.

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or too small a wastegate port

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Originally Posted by Scoff

or too small a wastegate port

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often the case with a VNT:cry:

oh, vnt :D I should read the whole thread I suppose.

sounds like he needs a w/g aswell, or the vanes are not opening as far as they could or should ? dunno, never set one up.

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Originally Posted by Andrew Cooke

often the case with a VNT:cry:

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:laugh:


This is a top thread. It's amazing how difficult it is to get these C1J conversions successfully/fully mapped. Every time I read an update on an EFI thread there's been another attempted mapping and yet another set back. It's like carrot on a stick and particularly frustrating for the neutral, let alone the owner. Keep at it :agree:

More pics and print outs please...

Its proper annoying, I knew that no one has managed to map a VNT with EFI properly but after the first session it seemed it wasn't gunna be a problem :( best layed plans huh:cry:

It makes no freckin sense to me why it won't work, all I have done is replaced the single carb with 4 injectors, a bigger throttle body and the dizzy with a coil pack and everything works perfect, just not the VNT.

Yes the engine is running more effiecently but that alone shouldn't be causing this.

Its gotta be do able, I mean look at the VW golf, the mk4 diesel had a vnt and from what I've been told the mk5 GTi has 1 too, so how the hell did VW do it.

I'm gunna try a smaller body and I'll let ya know how I get on, now does anyone know what car uses a body somewhere between 30mm and 45mm?

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Originally Posted by Andrew Cooke

did you ever check the boost at the carb top? It might just be that now you've removed the 25mm restrictor the boost is getting to the inlet.

Throttle size shouldn't give you boost creep, lack of flow through the turbine will.

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When I had the carb I was getting 14psi before the carb and 10psi after, now it boosts up to 14psi then settles down to 10psi as normal but after 4500rpm creeps fast and thats measured at the manifold

if you really think a smaller throttle is what you want try and limit how far the one you have opens.

if you're able to apply pressure to the actuator have a look at how much pressure it takes to fully open the VNT, also check that it does fully open.

do you think you could have a leak in the pipe to the actuator?

Have you tie-wrapped the pipe to the actuator? mine leaked at a bar.

oh yeah, I think VW use a MAF sensor, which I think is where we started however many months ago...

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Originally Posted by Os8472

Its proper annoying, I knew that no one has managed to map a VNT with EFI properly

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Mr Cooke has!!

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Originally Posted by Ashy

Mr Cooke has!!

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wrong, as I said way back, you can't map out how much the VNT changes the VE of the engine with a MAP sensor.

anyway, another question for you, which side of the throttle does the actuator pipe go to?

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Originally Posted by Andrew Cooke

if you really think a smaller throttle is what you want try and limit how far the one you have opens.

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Sorta tried that already and it seems to work, I tie wrapped a piece of wood to the underside of the throttle peddle:D bodge it and scarpper lol

The actuator is opening fully as far as I can tell.

I've replace the actutor hose twice and no change.

I always tie wrap vacuum hoses, I've seen what happens when they come loose.

The actuator pipe connects after the throttle body.

Call me stupid, whats the VE of an engine?

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Originally Posted by Os8472

I knew that no one has managed to map a VNT with EFI properly

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Really? ;)

Great thread, I have been reading this from the start. :) Good to see more EFI C1J's being built.

Stick with it mate, you'll get there in the end I'm sure. It'll be worth all the stress, money and time.

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Originally Posted by Os8472

The actuator pipe connects after the throttle body.

Call me stupid, whats the VE of an engine?

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sounds like you need a wastegate then. You wouldn't be the first to use one with a VNT.

Actuator pipe needs to be before the throttle, otherwise when you close the throttle the vanes will try and keep the boost up - ie you won't really be controlling the power with your foot.

VE - Volumetric Efficiency. ie how much air flows through the engine at a particular RPM

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Originally Posted by Andrew Cooke

sounds like you need a wastegate then. You wouldn't be the first to use one with a VNT.

Actuator pipe needs to be before the throttle, otherwise when you close the throttle the vanes will try and keep the boost up - ie you won't really be controlling the power with your foot.

VE - Volumetric Efficiency. ie how much air flows through the engine at a particular RPM

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How has everyone else plumbed in a wastegate? did ya get a cutom manifold made up or is there some kinda adaptor that'll fit between the manifold and turbo?

Right I'll move the actuator pipe to before the throttle body, me being dumb didn't know you shouldn't have it after.

So what does VE actually mean then? is there a maximum air flow? how do you measure it?

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Originally Posted by Os8472

So what does VE actually mean then? is there a maximum air flow? how do you measure it?

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:google: :D

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Originally Posted by Trevhib

:google: :D

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Ha ha very funny:rolleyes:

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Originally Posted by Os8472

Ha ha very funny:rolleyes:

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..........but true http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Volumetric_efficiency ;)

Thanks Stu. Given you're trying to sort out EFI on the C1J, it wasn't hard eh Os. :rolleyes:

it should really be a common sence thing for any engine builder, or tuner atleast! whoever mapped your car should know this stuff. if you have a variable restrictor (VNT) on the output of an engine (exhaust) then the ammount of air the engine consumes will vary accordingly. it all becomes a bit 3d. no longer is airflow connected only to manifold pressure and RPM but it's dependant on the the VNT too. since you need to match fuel with air then the afr is going to shift about as the vnt does it's thing.

now I've never mapped a car with VNT so I'm probably talking bollocks but I'd guess that I might be able to map the on-boost portion of map a bit rich to cover my arse, not ideal!

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Originally Posted by Scoff

it should really be a common sence thing for any engine builder, or tuner atleast! whoever mapped your car should know this stuff. if you have a variable restrictor (VNT) on the output of an engine (exhaust) then the ammount of air the engine consumes will vary accordingly. it all becomes a bit 3d. no longer is airflow connected only to manifold pressure and RPM but it's dependant on the the VNT too. since you need to match fuel with air then the afr is going to shift about as the vnt does it's thing.

now I've never mapped a car with VNT so I'm probably talking bollocks but I'd guess that I might be able to map the on-boost portion of map a bit rich to cover my arse, not ideal!

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you're spot on there, and that's what I did. I'm hoping that it's better with the reduced overlap of my new cam. The problem is, it also means you have to be conservative with the timing too. The other thing I'm doing is mapping the VNT position, so that should mean that the vanes are always in the same position in the same part of the map - give or take any transients...

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Originally Posted by Andrew Cooke

you're spot on there, and that's what I did. I'm hoping that it's better with the reduced overlap of my new cam. The problem is, it also means you have to be conservative with the timing too. The other thing I'm doing is mapping the VNT position, so that should mean that the vanes are always in the same position in the same part of the map - give or take any transients...

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that sounds like an expensive mapping session on the rollers /dyno ?

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Originally Posted by stuTHC

..........but true http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Volumetric_efficiency ;)

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Interesting read, still not sure on everything but then I'm no engineer lol.

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Originally Posted by Trevhib

Thanks Stu. Given you're trying to sort out EFI on the C1J, it wasn't hard eh Os. :rolleyes:

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Oi, efi is the easy bit, getting it to work with a vnt is hard bit and before you say I'm not mapping it, I wouldn't have a clue, thats why I'm letting Dave do it.

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Originally Posted by Scoff

it should really be a common sence thing for any engine builder, or tuner atleast! whoever mapped your car should know this stuff. if you have a variable restrictor (VNT) on the output of an engine (exhaust) then the ammount of air the engine consumes will vary accordingly. it all becomes a bit 3d. no longer is airflow connected only to manifold pressure and RPM but it's dependant on the the VNT too. since you need to match fuel with air then the afr is going to shift about as the vnt does it's thing.

now I've never mapped a car with VNT so I'm probably talking bollocks but I'd guess that I might be able to map the on-boost portion of map a bit rich to cover my arse, not ideal!

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See thats interesting cus Dave had no problem getting the fueling to sit at exactly the afr he wanted, even when the boost shot up to silly amounts the fueling stayed spot on, when JP helped my rasie the rev limit he connected his LM-1 and watched the fueling and it never ran lean, even Dave hadn't finished the fueling map that far the ECU's factory defults were still in place which is to run abit rich which it did, it doesn't seem to have any problem fueling the VNT, just keeping the boost under control is the problem

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Originally Posted by Andrew Cooke

you're spot on there, and that's what I did. I'm hoping that it's better with the reduced overlap of my new cam. The problem is, it also means you have to be conservative with the timing too. The other thing I'm doing is mapping the VNT position, so that should mean that the vanes are always in the same position in the same part of the map - give or take any transients...

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How do you map the vane positions? scurb that how do you even tell where they are?

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Originally Posted by Os8472

See thats interesting cus Dave had no problem getting the fueling to sit at exactly the afr he wanted, even when the boost shot up to silly amounts the fueling stayed spot on, when JP helped my rasie the rev limit he connected his LM-1 and watched the fueling and it never ran lean, even Dave hadn't finished the fueling map that far the ECU's factory defults were still in place which is to run abit rich which it did, it doesn't seem to have any problem fueling the VNT, just keeping the boost under control is the problem



How do you map the vane positions? scurb that how do you even tell where they are?

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On the dyno things are static, it's when you get on and off the throttle that the fuelling goes silly. Maybe you won't see it, depending upon how fast your lamda reacts. I log this stuff and get to worry about it later. That said you won't have the overlap, or flow of my engine, so maybe it won't get so pissy about backpressure.

measuring and controlling stuff just costs time and money...

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Originally Posted by Os8472

Interesting read, still not sure on everything but then I'm no engineer lol.

Oi, efi is the easy bit, getting it to work with a vnt is hard bit and before you say I'm not mapping it, I wouldn't have a clue, thats why I'm letting Dave do it.

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Fair play Os. The only thing I'd say is that you're asking for a lot of help from certain members in bottoming this boost/fuelling/VNT issue. I'm sure the guys are more than happy to help and the thread is really interesting for the rest of us. In return for the assitance you're getting however, you'd have thought you'd at least be using Google where possible (i.e. to help you understand physics/mechanics basics), instead of adding the extra load to Andy (or whoever).

Might be worth looking at other turbo options instead of the vnt? Plenty of good blowers out there. Is it really worth all the hassle of trying to set it up, i.e mapping costs, parts & time wasted etc.

Bob on Brigsy :agree:

If it were that much aggro (and let's be honest, everyone who's tried fitting a vnt to a gtt before has had said aggro in plentiful supply), wouldn't it make more sense to just fit a conventional blower & be done with it?

The efi setup in itself surely outweighs any disadvantage of a 'slower' spooling conventional turbo being in situ?

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Originally Posted by Trevhib

Fair play Os. The only thing I'd say is that you're asking for a lot of help from certain members in bottoming this boost/fuelling/VNT issue. I'm sure the guys are more than happy to help and the thread is really interesting for the rest of us. In return for the assitance you're getting however, you'd have thought you'd at least be using Google where possible (i.e. to help you understand physics/mechanics basics), instead of adding the extra load to Andy (or whoever).

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I have tried mate but as I said before I'm no engineer and understanding stuff like that is abit beyond me, yeah I can bolt stuff together no probs but get to the technical stuff and i'm lost, now if it was women I wouldn't have any probs in making scream with pleasure in less than a minute:D

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Originally Posted by Mart

Bob on Brigsy :agree:

If it were that much aggro (and let's be honest, everyone who's tried fitting a vnt to a gtt before has had said aggro in plentiful supply), wouldn't it make more sense to just fit a conventional blower & be done with it?

The efi setup in itself surely outweighs any disadvantage of a 'slower' spooling conventional turbo being in situ?

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True but just because somit is hard doesn't mean you shouldn't do it, if we did try we'd still be leaving in caves

Aii, and I'm all for development ideas, but in fairness you've been dicking around for months trying to resolve this, and surely there comes a point where it just ain't gonna happen.

When I see someone like Andy struggling to get a variable unit working sufficiently good enough, and bearing in mind the application for his car/turbo is hill-climbs, where yours is more road-usage & hence more 'necessary' to set up correctly, I think the caves you mention would be pretty desolate by now...

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Originally Posted by Mart

Aii, and I'm all for development ideas, but in fairness you've been dicking around for months trying to resolve this, and surely there comes a point where it just ain't gonna happen.

When I see someone like Andy struggling to get a variable unit working sufficiently good enough, and bearing in mind the application for his car/turbo is hill-climbs, where yours is more road-usage & hence more 'necessary' to set up correctly, I think the caves you mention would be pretty desolate by now...

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I haven't been dicking around with this for months, I've only had the problems with boost since the last dyno seesion which was on the 24th of november but I've been busy trying to trace this oil leak since then, I have been dicking around with other issues such as the oil leak and slipping clutch but those can happen on any car

My bad. I must be getting confused between that and the efi install itself.

Fair play for seeing it through; it'll be a good conversion when it's all tickity boo :agree:

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Originally Posted by Mart

My bad. I must be getting confused between that and the efi install itself.

Fair play for seeing it through; it'll be a good conversion when it's all tickity boo :agree:

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No worries dude

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Originally Posted by Os8472

I have tried mate but as I said before I'm no engineer and understanding stuff like that is abit beyond me, yeah I can bolt stuff together no probs but get to the technical stuff and i'm lost

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Sigh. You didn't try in this instance and in any case if Wiki can't help you understand it, how is Andy supposed to do any better. More pertinently, if it's beyond you, why are you asking. Forget it I'm out, but good luck with resolving the issues. :agree:

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Originally Posted by Trevhib

Sigh. You didn't try in this instance and in any case if Wiki can't help you understand it, how is Andy supposed to do any better. More pertinently, if it's beyond you, why are you asking. Forget it I'm out, but good luck with resolving the issues. :agree:

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When I see technical stuff writen down it tends to blur, where as if some explains in simple terms I can sometimes understands whats being said, I am dislexic ya know (can't even spell it lol)

cool, well its good that it maps up OK, that would have been my only worry really.

re your boost control, how did you get on with running the actuator before the throttle ? it can do some wierd stuff at part throttle when you have it conencted to the manifold. there's nothing simpler than going straight to the compressor housing with the pipe.

if it's still going mad after that then I guess its down to adjustment of the vanes or the actual sizing of turbine ? can you get a too-small a vnt that is un-able to open up enough to keep the boost within limits ? as I say, I know fudge all about vnt, I'm just applying some logic :)

id love to see Alan at AVA's face if i turned up there with a vnt strapped to mine and asked him to map it :wasntme: not cause i doubt his ability to be able to do it more of the case would be why????

as others have said is it really worth the extra hastle , i can see why andy is spending time trying to get the best out of using a vnt as he will only use the car for hill climbs, but for a road car and the power im guessing your aiming for all it will do for u is light up the front tyres @2k rpm instead of at 4k and probably make your power band shorter ,although i have no idea what size of turbo your using .

Ive been toying with the idea of going for a bigger turbo but i think for the way i like to drive and the roads i mostly drive on the t25 seems to be ideal and a good compromise ,and sticking with what i set out to have my 5 like a bit of an all rounder not losing track by chasing those magical bhp figures .

ditch the vnt m8 ;)

Got a poster of this car on my wall and was great to see it in the flesh at nationals day.Keep up the good work.Great modifications and i like how it looks almost factory with the phase1 front bumper and decals.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Scoff

cool, well its good that it maps up OK, that would have been my only worry really.

re your boost control, how did you get on with running the actuator before the throttle ? it can do some wierd stuff at part throttle when you have it conencted to the manifold. there's nothing simpler than going straight to the compressor housing with the pipe.

if it's still going mad after that then I guess its down to adjustment of the vanes or the actual sizing of turbine ? can you get a too-small a vnt that is un-able to open up enough to keep the boost within limits ? as I say, I know fudge all about vnt, I'm just applying some logic :)

---

Yeah I was worried about how the mapping would go, after hearing so many people say ya couldn't have a EFI and a VNT I thought I was pushing my luck but if the only problem I'm having boost control it could be alot worse.
Annoyingly there's no tap off the compressor housing to connect the actuator hose, so I'm gunna tap it into the first boost pipe after the turbo, hopefully that'll make even a little bit of a difference.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Mudslinger

id love to see Alan at AVA's face if i turned up there with a vnt strapped to mine and asked him to map it :wasntme: not cause i doubt his ability to be able to do it more of the case would be why????

as others have said is it really worth the extra hastle , i can see why andy is spending time trying to get the best out of using a vnt as he will only use the car for hill climbs, but for a road car and the power im guessing your aiming for all it will do for u is light up the front tyres @2k rpm instead of at 4k and probably make your power band shorter ,although i have no idea what size of turbo your using .

Ive been toying with the idea of going for a bigger turbo but i think for the way i like to drive and the roads i mostly drive on the t25 seems to be ideal and a good compromise ,and sticking with what i set out to have my 5 like a bit of an all rounder not losing track by chasing those magical bhp figures .

ditch the vnt m8 ;)

---

Honestly if I did this again with another R5 I wouldn't use a VNT but since I've already started with this 1 I intend to see it through, yeah life would be alot simpler with a T25 but I like to at least try get stuff working

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by LukeRobbo

Got a poster of this car on my wall and was great to see it in the flesh at nationals day.Keep up the good work.Great modifications and i like how it looks almost factory with the phase1 front bumper and decals.

---

Cheers bud, never thought my car would be a pin up lol, when it went for paint the 1 thing I said was "I went to keep it factory looking but with a modern twist"

Oli, if you want a proper threaded insert for the compressor housing, i'll send you one. If there isn't a blanking plug you'll need to tap and drill the comp housing though, which is nearly impossible to **** up.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Adam L

Oli, if you want a proper threaded insert for the compressor housing, i'll send you one. If there isn't a blanking plug you'll need to tap and drill the comp housing though, which is nearly impossible to **** up.

---

I'll be able to f**k that up :D

thats ok mate, I've got naff all time at the mo anyway

I do love it when I'm proved right, when my 5 was in carrera gettin paint I had a 200sx as winter beater, when I sold it, it was a non runner so I took a few bits off before hand 1 of them being the turbo and it has a take off in the compressor housing, now if I'd listerned to me old dear I woulda got rid of that months, glad I didn't now.

After 20mins in a soaking wet, muddy scrap yard I have a throttle body I think will help, the 1 I originally used was off a Mitsibushi Starion and it was 55mm internal dia, now I have a 40mm internal dia job off a ford fiesta, all it needs is a hole blanking, an old bracket removed and my TPS sensor fitted and calibrated, I'll you guys know how I get on.

I don't see the point in fitting a smaller throttle body if your wanting power. Might aswell go back to the old 25mm carb eh..

just chuck the carb back on... worked ok for stu clarke ;)

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Brigsy

I don't see the point in fitting a smaller throttle body if your wanting power. Might aswell go back to the old 25mm carb eh..

---

The standard is 25mm, I fitted a 55mm for the conversion, now dropping down to a 40mm, should still give a power increase over the carb and far better mpg

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by markey b

just chuck the carb back on... worked ok for stu clarke ;)

---

Shut it Butterworth:laugh:

....you know i'd have your setup, just for the noise on the limiter! lol

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by markey b

....you know i'd have your setup, just for the noise on the limiter! lol

---

If ya out 2nite mate I'll take you out in it again, now the rev limiter is up you believe what its like, when it hits the limiter at 5500rpm it pops even bigger flames:D

your on ;)

New poster! (less than 10 posts)

throttle size has nothing to do with fuel ecconomy ?? it also won't make any difference to your boost control problem unless you go so small that it becomes a choke. the only advantage of a smaller throttle will be that its responce will be a little more progressive, it won't be quite so sensitive as I bet it is now at 55mm.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Scoff

New poster! (less than 10 posts)

throttle size has nothing to do with fuel ecconomy ?? it also won't make any difference to your boost control problem unless you go so small that it becomes a choke. the only advantage of a smaller throttle will be that its responce will be a little more progressive, it won't be quite so sensitive as I bet it is now at 55mm.

---

I was never sure having the 55mm was a good idea at the start of the conversion, and yes your right Scoff, the slightest throttle launches me down the road with smoke poaring off the tyres or I stall it and look a cock

id say the going down the road with smoke pouring off makes you look like more of a cock than stalling it

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Adey aka Ewok

id say the going down the road with smoke pouring off makes you look like more of a cock than stalling it

---

Yep I'll give u that

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Os8472

I was never sure having the 55mm was a good idea at the start of the conversion, and yes your right Scoff, the slightest throttle launches me down the road with smoke poaring off the tyres or I stall it and look a cock

---

TBH We all think you look like a cock all the time :laugh::wasntme:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Penfold

TBH We all think you look like a cock all the time :laugh::wasntme:

---

:laugh:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Penfold

TBH We all think you look like a cock all the time :laugh::wasntme:

---

I can't help it if I'm so well blesed that all you see is my cock;)

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Os8472

I can't help it if I'm so well blesed that all you see is my cock;)

---

no he out right called you a cock, didnt mention seeing your weener

Pic of my old VNT which had two actuators one for vane control the other controls the waste gate would this help set up?

Very interesting, looks like its a water cooled unit aswell, how well di it work?
Since all the problems I've been having are boost control and not fueling I have been toying with the idea of an external wastegate but that looks proper cool

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Adey aka Ewok

id say the going down the road with smoke pouring off makes you look like more of a cock than stalling it

---

http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=8zmHHbGqMDo

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by markey b

http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=8zmHHbGqMDo

---

Er random

Its been awhile since I've updated this thread, mainly cus my internet has been down:(

Things get worse though, right now i'm experiencing that 'I hate the C1J' moment, I blew the head gasket just before christmas (yes it was my fault) and I finally got a chance to get it all back together and running yesterday, I ran it up only to be met with the sound of a fecked bottom end:cry:

Its not like i couldn't fix it but I'm getting tired of having to do the same jobs over and over again, right now I'm giving great consideration to dropping in a clio 1.8 16v lump and whacking on a turbo

Why do that and do what with the EFI set up?

how many headgaskets have you blown in total?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Os8472

Its been awhile since I've updated this thread, mainly cus my internet has been down:(

Things get worse though, right now i'm experiencing that 'I hate the C1J' moment, I blew the head gasket just before christmas (yes it was my fault) and I finally got a chance to get it all back together and running yesterday, I ran it up only to be met with the sound of a fecked bottom end:cry:

Its not like i couldn't fix it but I'm getting tired of having to do the same jobs over and over again, right now I'm giving great consideration to dropping in a clio 1.8 16v lump and whacking on a turbo

---

what caused the head gasket to go then. if you say its your fault surley its not worth changing the engine plans is it.:confused:

i was actually in the vehicle when it blew... so probably my fault lol

i have a magic touch when it comes to cars lol

Im guessing it was under boost when it destryoed the hg and bottom end ,why oh why were you gunning it when it wasnt mapped proper :confused:

Ive had to be pationt with mine ,what a shame you have given up on it ,im sure someone will buy the bits off you and maybe give it a go again .

almost similar to what happened with my 5 ie so close to getting it finished then it dropped a valve on the rollers while doing a power run , although it was not a mapping fault more a case of a badly built head , i still cant believe you were driving it when it wasnt set up right .

i had to make that same decision to rebuild again or scrap the project , there is still alot of times when i think i was daft cont but its starting to look worth while now ..

It was mapped up to 5000rpm on boost and had a rev limit set there, the hg let go cus of a problem with 1 injectors sticking wide open causing number 1 to run mega rich and hiding the fact the other were running abit lean, its my fault for truct the firm I bought them from and not getting checking the injectors.

Dunno why the bottom end let go yet, I'll whip the engine out and open it up on saturday and see what the damage is and try and figure out why it died.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Os8472

It was mapped up to 5000rpm on boost and had a rev limit set there, the hg let go cus of a problem with 1 injectors sticking wide open causing number 1 to run mega rich and hiding the fact the other were running abit lean, its my fault for truct the firm I bought them from and not getting checking the injectors.

Dunno why the bottom end let go yet, I'll whip the engine out and open it up on saturday and see what the damage is and try and figure out why it died.

---

what boost pressure was it seeing ? still a bit daft of you to be boosting around knowing that it wasnt set up right even with it limited , surely the mapper wouldve spotted a problem with an injector ? is it purelly down to the boost control that the limiter is set at 5k rpm?

14psi, the mappers afr were showing perfect readings but that was cus the number 1 was throwing in so much petrol it was hiding the other 3 running just lean and with a VNT doing the boosting job running lean in anyway is a bad thing.

Yeah the boost control problem is why the limiter was at 5k, it was ok up to then, after that the boost creep up very quickly.

arent vnt's mainly used on diesel cars ??

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Os8472

14psi, the mappers afr were showing perfect readings but that was cus the number 1 was throwing in so much petrol it was hiding the other 3 running just lean and with a VNT doing the boosting job running lean in anyway is a bad thing.

Yeah the boost control problem is why the limiter was at 5k, it was ok up to then, after that the boost creep up very quickly.

---

Might be worth getting EGT sensors mounted on the exhaust manifold

Why not save yourself the headache and bin the VNT?

Dont give up on the project, a EFi C1J is well worth having!! Wouldn't bother with a 1.8 16v turbo now when you've done all the hard work on this engine!!

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Ashy

Why not save yourself the headache and bin the VNT?

Dont give up on the project, a EFi C1J is well worth having!! Wouldn't bother with a 1.8 16v turbo now when you've done all the hard work on this engine!!

---

:agree: Just got too see whats achieavable when you look at what AVA have done with Mudslingers. Scrap the vnt, and go for something nice and meaty!!

i've popped a h/g on my f7p turbo n all, aint that much better! not to mention 2 clutches one turbo and a gearbox aswell lol

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Coops

i've popped a h/g on my f7p turbo n all, aint that much better! not to mention 2 clutches one turbo and a gearbox aswell lol

---

Coops, what gearbox did you blow up and whats the valver gear box like in terms of holding the power??

In theory all I need to do is replace the faulty injector, plumb in my external wastegate (waiting on my welding bloke to finish I bit of custom work) and replace the big end and main bearings and then get it mapped, which isn't alot when you think about it, its just annoying that everytime I do something to improve the car I end up having to repair something else that doesn't like it.

I know everyone keeps saying get rid of the VNT and stick with the EFI but the hell can't I have a VNT and EFI, if Porchse can do it with the 911 turbo so can I.

Just out of interest what problems have people had in the past trying to map a VNT?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Os8472

Just out of interest what problems have people had in the past trying to map a VNT?

---

thats a bit of a no brainer question is it no? its obvious its down to the boost control :)

I don't think anyone has mapped a 5 with a VNT on a fuel injected C1J before, its hard enough with a carb.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Markey Mark (BD)

I don't think anyone has mapped a 5 with a VNT on a fuel injected C1J before, its hard enough with a carb.

---

call me stupid, but what is so different about the compressor map on a VNT, other than spike (external wg should limit that) and the fact it spools early?!

surely the pressure it produces at a said RPM remains similar to a normal turbo, and if the MAP sensor measures the boost and fuels accordingly it shouldn't be a problem...

if i'm wrong please correct me tho, i'm willing to learn! lol

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by markey b

call me stupid, but what is so different about the compressor map on a VNT, other than spike (external wg should limit that) and the fact it spools early?!

surely the pressure it produces at a said RPM remains similar to a normal turbo, and if the MAP sensor measures the boost and fuels accordingly it shouldn't be a problem...

if i'm wrong please correct me tho, i'm willing to learn! lol

---

it's the turbine map that causes the problem

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Andrew Cooke

wrong, as I said way back, you can't map out how much the VNT changes the VE of the engine with a MAP sensor.

---

what he said!

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Mudslinger

thats a bit of a no brainer question is it no? its obvious its down to the boost control :)

---

Well apart from that:rolleyes:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by MATT C Ringworm Tuning

Coops, what gearbox did you blow up and whats the valver gear box like in terms of holding the power??

---

valver jb3 gearbox i blew, circlipped bearings so bag of ****e mate, it was a new refurbed box direct from renault, it had done 2k at low boost 217bhp and 200lb/ft when i bought the car, i did 4k on it, half of that at high boost 254bhp and 230lb/ft and it died, stripped 4th gear on autobahn just outside aachen on way to the ring, muchos disappointment

now have a jc5 williams box, rebuilt by team think as it was their spare box and its going okay atm, only done couple of k max on it tho and one pod day

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Coops

valver jb3 gearbox i blew, circlipped bearings so bag of ****e mate, it was a new refurbed box direct from renault, it had done 2k at low boost 217bhp and 200lb/ft when i bought the car, i did 4k on it, half of that at high boost 254bhp and 230lb/ft and it died, stripped 4th gear on autobahn just outside aachen on way to the ring, muchos disappointment

now have a jc5 williams box, rebuilt by team think as it was their spare box and its going okay atm, only done couple of k max on it tho and one pod day

---

Gotta ask, whats wrong with using the R5GTT box on a valver turbo? its a proven box thats taken stupid amounts of abuse over the years from just about everyone thats ever owned an R5

It begins, SWHR Spec 2 engine build
First off, here's my spare block, its got no pistons or crank but it is intact, just needs cleaning, painting and prepping
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/08...4012009151.jpg
So lets get started, a good dose of nitro mors
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/08...4012009154.jpg
In no time the old paint is peeling off
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/08...4012009156.jpg
About 5mins with an old screwdriver and a wire brush and its looking loads better
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/08...4012009157.jpg
Another coat of nitro mors and its nearly ready
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/08...4012009158.jpg
A good clean out with engine degreaser and a hose pipe and its ready for paint
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/08...4012009159.jpg
Brown is the new black :)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/08...4012009160.jpg


Nah not really thats just the red oxide primer, once thats dried I'll mask it up and give it first proper coat of paint

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Os8472

Gotta ask, whats wrong with using the R5GTT box on a valver turbo? its a proven box thats taken stupid amounts of abuse over the years from just about everyone thats ever owned an R5

---

no top mount, have to go manual steering fit r5 lower mount to hold it. no speedo. willy box is straight swap and handles it well:cool:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Coops

no top mount, have to go manual steering fit r5 lower mount to hold it. no speedo. willy box is straight swap and handles it well:cool:

---

Ah I see, so it just a case of it being more easy to fit

Been looking over the dead engine, I think I may have found the problem, can anyone spot it

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/08...1022009172.jpg

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Os8472

Its been awhile since I've updated this thread, mainly cus my internet has been down:(

Things get worse though, right now i'm experiencing that 'I hate the C1J' moment, I blew the head gasket just before christmas (yes it was my fault) and I finally got a chance to get it all back together and running yesterday, I ran it up only to be met with the sound of a fecked bottom end:cry:

Its not like i couldn't fix it but I'm getting tired of having to do the same jobs over and over again, right now I'm giving great consideration to dropping in a clio 1.8 16v lump and whacking on a turbo

---

bbtuning seem to flogging those valver turbo manifolds off for cheap pennies on ebay currently.
last time i looked it was £99 each with 10 available.
might be worth going f7r route...but then with the work you have put into the c1j i would be inclicned to stay that route and iron out the problem

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Maka

bbtuning seem to flogging those valver turbo manifolds off for cheap pennies on ebay currently.
last time i looked it was £99 each with 10 available.
might be worth going f7r route...but then with the work you have put into the c1j i would be inclicned to stay that route and iron out the problem

---

I'm gunna stick with the C1J for now but come next year should there be any major issues like this again I will sell the efi system and whack in valver lump, but for now its on with the C1J SWHR spec 2 build

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Maka

bbtuning seem to flogging those valver turbo manifolds off for cheap pennies on ebay currently.
last time i looked it was £99 each with 10 available.

---

Link please :)

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Ashy

Link please :)

---

thats a wierd thing
as i only pointed the them out saturday night to the other half and now i cant find them

the investigation continues

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Ashy

Link please :)

---

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...m=120369702018

Right along with everythin else I'm doing I've decided to look into aerodynamics and how to improve the aeros of the R5, I'm startin with the underside, first off the front end, I'm gunna make a sump guard out of ally that'll help protect it but also direct the airflow in a cleaner way, next the rear end, I'm gunna remove the spare and its hanger and make a plate to cover the whole space from the fuel tank back the rear bumper to help keep the airflow clean, next up the front bumper, I'm trying to find a nice carbon splitter but in the mean time I've found a nice pair of carbon carnards to help kill the understeer

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/08...ards_small.jpg

ull have to be going at a rate of knots into a corner for them to work well bud, id look into making the whole underside of the car flat as you can with ali sheets and then getting it low

True but they look cool and are perfect for slicing the legs of cyclists just b4 I set them on fire with the sidey lol

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Os8472

True but they look cool and are perfect for slicing the legs of cyclists just b4 I set them on fire with the sidey lol

---

Let Brewski know if you're coming around with them on, he can't afford to lose any more hieght.;)

why i orta :upyours:. Not being funny olly but aero is not really an issue is it yet? surely not , i cant see many track going 5's touch upon splitter ,aerofoils or any other form of aerodynamic enhancement?i know russell b has filled in the spare wheel void with lexan/perspex something like that anyways , im sure there are plenty more things to worry about to make it fast round corners before you need mclaren type splitters lol :)

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by TNT ANDY

Let Brewski know if you're coming around with them on, he can't afford to lose any more hieght.;)

---

Good point, his name is first on the list lol

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by TNT!hammond

why i orta :upyours:. Not being funny olly but aero is not really an issue is it yet? surely not , i cant see many track going 5's touch upon splitter ,aerofoils or any other form of aerodynamic enhancement?i know russell b has filled in the spare wheel void with lexan/perspex something like that anyways , im sure there are plenty more things to worry about to make it fast round corners before you need mclaren type splitters lol :)

---

True I could get more power from the engine or fit a cage like yours to stiffen the shell but I wanna have ago at thinking outside the box, besides I decided on slight change in direct with mine, instead of outo and out power that last for 2 maybe 3 laps of a circuit blowing up in spectacular fashion, I want somit I can rag all day long and be 100% reliable.................... ok maybe 80% lol, I not so worried if it isn't as fast as it could be in a straight line, I've already Mars over a 1/4mile and he's got 30bhp and 50ft lb over mine, wanna make it quick in other areas.
Its always annoyed me that even though its small light as the wheels in each corner that it just doesn't seem to hande aswell as it should, yeah its proberbly down to my driving.
When I went on that trackday at bedford autodrome against all those damn clio 172's, 182's and 197's I could easy bet them on the straights but get to the corners and they just kept there foot in and were gone, where as i had slow down alot to get round without ending up in a hedge.

you need to sort the chassis before you bother with aerodynamics - springs, dampers, camber etc. (do you have any pictures of your car cornering?). You also need to look at unsprung weight - wheels brakes etc.

When it comes to lift, the PH1 bumper probably doesn't do you any favours... but as the Ewok said, wings and stuff will be what you want to tweak the handing in 100mph corners, but only once it's sorted in the slower ones.

you can get decent suspension for not much cash, or you can get very good suspension for alot more money, i payed what i feel is a huge a mount of money for my suspension, but after driving on track alot its easily the thing thats given me the most bang for buck, i can corner harder faster and smoother due to the sus, and the more spped you carry through the corner the faster your going onto the straights, my car is very slow compared to alot of cars i pass on track, good sus, good tyres and good brakes. mabey you could look into some better driving techniques to cure your understeer problem?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Andrew Cooke

you need to sort the chassis before you bother with aerodynamics - springs, dampers, camber etc. (do you have any pictures of your car cornering?). You also need to look at unsprung weight - wheels brakes etc.

When it comes to lift, the PH1 bumper probably doesn't do you any favours... but as the Ewok said, wings and stuff will be what you want to tweak the handing in 100mph corners, but only once it's sorted in the slower ones.

---

I've got Avo coilovers on the front and Avo adjustable rear dampers, the engine bay has been seam welded and braced, so has the subframe, polybushes on the anti roll bar and wishbones, new ball joints, new strut top mounts, strut brace, pair of toyo R888's for trackdays so all the basics have been covered.

These are the best pics I've got of it cornering at bedford autodrome

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/08...6-05-200-1.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/08...-05-200820.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/08...-05-200820.jpg

that engine looks class how much it cost to put all tht 2gether?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by d110rkjste

that engine looks class how much it cost to put all tht 2gether?

---

Far too much, mostl cus I did it myself and learnt what does and doesn't work by blowing it up half a dozen times lol

what turbo do you have? an how did u get all the cozzy parts on it?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by d110rkjste

what turbo do you have? an how did u get all the cozzy parts on it?

---

Its a VNT turbo courtesy of Adam L at turbo developments, top man he is.

The cozzy fuel rail and pump were lying in a box of bits belonging to the guy who made my inlet manifold, he had to shorten the fuel to suit and adjust the factory pump bracket to fit the cozzy job, so it was easy........... for me anyway, he had no end of trouble with the rail, it kept springing leaks but its been perfect since

is right, i had a volvo 480 turbo engine in mine fitted it with my m8, but changed back to a r5 engine as it needed much more work. was fast though

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by d110rkjste

is right, i had a volvo 480 turbo engine in mine fitted it with my m8, but changed back to a r5 engine as it needed much more work. was fast though

---

I've heard that, but it should so much easyer to adjust the fueling cus its efi from the factory, what you done to ya C1J lump then?

had a vnt turbo from turbo developments on my car for a few track days, until it went pop:(. need to get it totally re built including turbine shaft and compressor wheel. as stated before the slender shaft isnt exactly robust and dont know if i should bother with it again. like the idea of a seperate waste gate though.

i bought the engine fom a lad it had new pistons an tht, wacked a group a head gasket on, bigger turbo, messed round with the carb an tht, got hold of a gt tuning intercooler the cybercool 1, the lad who i bought the engine off also said bb tuning messed ound with the head, it runs sweet best engine ive had, running it on 20 psi like goes like mad even with 17s on

:disagree:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by d110rkjste

i bought the engine fom a lad it had new pistons an tht, wacked a group a head gasket on, bigger turbo, messed round with the carb an tht, got hold of a gt tuning intercooler the cybercool 1, the lad who i bought the engine off also said bb tuning messed ound with the head, it runs sweet best engine ive had, running it on 20 psi like goes like mad even with 17s on

---

Have you ever had it dyno'd to see what power its making?

no i neet 2 get it rr soon if its 160 170 bhp ill be made up

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by d110rkjste

no i neet 2 get it rr soon if its 160 170 bhp ill be made up

---

What size is ya turbo?

i think a stage 2 with a bigger turbo elbow, its only slightly bigger than a t2 so maybe better internals, it holds 20 psi well though

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by d110rkjste

i think a stage 2 with a bigger turbo elbow, its only slightly bigger than a t2 so maybe better internals, it holds 20 psi well though

---

Well I got 150bhp at 17psi with my T2 so I recon you could expect anythin from 160bhp upto 175ish, porviding your setup is good of course

i think the only thing stopping it wil be the fueling, i have a uprated fuel pump but i aint sure if the petrol geting to the engine is too little, so might get that looked at so its perfect, but theres no problems so maybe its ok. i once had it boostin 30psi on i race see wot wud happen an it was a rocket haha

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by d110rkjste

i think the only thing stopping it wil be the fueling, i have a uprated fuel pump but i aint sure if the petrol geting to the engine is too little, so might get that looked at so its perfect, but theres no problems so maybe its ok. i once had it boostin 30psi on i race see wot wud happen an it was a rocket haha

---

Yeah don't go winding upto 30psi without adjusting the carb or it will go bang.

When it goes on the dyno make sure the block running the dyno sticks an O2 sensor up ya exhaust and keeps an eye on the fueling

nar 20 is well enuf til i get forge pistons, but it will be workin fine when i fix my starter so gonna jus use this yr 2 drive it an leave it alone i think.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by d110rkjste

nar 20 is well enuf til i get forge pistons, but it will be workin fine when i fix my starter so gonna jus use this yr 2 drive it an leave it alone i think.

---

you dont need forged pistons to run more than 20psi

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by RICHIE

you dont need forged pistons to run more than 20psi

---

He's right, its more important to get your fueling spot on than it is 2 throw money at parts that tunners tell you, you need

27psi and no forged pistons, steel liners, or posh cam for that matter ....

I'm not sure why people worry about boost, it has no direct relation to how much pressure is in the cylinder. You can have a more powerfull car at only 20psi of boost that has more cylinder pressure.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Scoff

I'm not sure why people worry about boost, it has no direct relation to how much pressure is in the cylinder. You can have a more powerfull car at only 20psi of boost that has more cylinder pressure.

---

:agree:

i agree it does depend on the setup of the car but havin them can only help the car when it gets ragged round

[quote=d110rkjste;45024]i agree it does depend on the setup of the car but havin them can only help the car when it gets ragged round[/quote

:(

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by d110rkjste

i agree it does depend on the setup of the car but havin them can only help the car when it gets ragged round

---

Well, no mate, don't believe the hype. There's alot of experience on here all telling you to save your money ;) It's by far much more important to have the car setup properly. A poor tune will melt forged pistons just as quickly as standard ones.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Scoff

Well, no mate, don't believe the hype. There's alot of experience on here all telling you to save your money ;) It's by far much more important to have the car setup properly. A poor tune will melt forged pistons just as quickly as standard ones.

---

Listern to this man, he knows his stuff, he's like the kung fu master of tunning:niceone:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Ben

had a vnt turbo from turbo developments on my car for a few track days, until it went pop:(. need to get it totally re built including turbine shaft and compressor wheel. as stated before the slender shaft isnt exactly robust and dont know if i should bother with it again. like the idea of a seperate waste gate though.

---

It'd probably be an idea to see why the turbo blew, rather than jumping onto something else that may well have the same fate...

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Adam L

It'd probably be an idea to see why the turbo blew, rather than jumping onto something else that may well have the same fate...

---

the bearing is completely shot and the turbine shaft has big groves were its over heated. The snap ring and sealing ring have melted completely:scared:. also the compressor wheel has contacted the housing and is also fecked. the inline filter looks nice and clear but i want to fit another oil pressure guage as the 1 on the car is a bit suspect. I think thats where the problem may lie. another thought is as it went on national day at mallory just after the long sweeping bend oil has moved away from the pickup and the turbo has been starved.
will have to arrange a day to bring it over to you for a price on its repair:)

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Ben

the bearing is completely shot and the turbine shaft has big groves were its over heated. The snap ring and sealing ring have melted completely:scared:. also the compressor wheel has contacted the housing and is also fecked. the inline filter looks nice and clear but i want to fit another oil pressure guage as the 1 on the car is a bit suspect. I think thats where the problem may lie. another thought is as it went on national day at mallory just after the long sweeping bend oil has moved away from the pickup and the turbo has been starved.
will have to arrange a day to bring it over to you for a price on its repair:)

---

Defo sounds like an oil problem, it didn't run low on oil did it?

No it was always at the maximum level but got to be some problem there as you say. As a standard turbo also went pop 3 track days later (although i was pushing it at 17-18psi):innocent:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Ben

No it was always at the maximum level but got to be some problem there as you say. As a standard turbo also went pop 3 track days later (although i was pushing it at 17-18psi):innocent:

---

Defo get a decent oil pressure gauge plumbed in, sounds like your not gettin enough oil pressure

Has the engine been rebuilt at any point?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Os8472

Defo get a decent oil pressure gauge plumbed in, sounds like your not gettin enough oil pressure

Has the engine been rebuilt at any point?

---

yes it was re built about a year ago but didnt get a new oil pump. droped the sump about a month ago to cure an oil leak and while i was doing it i removed a main cap to check the bearings, as i thought they may be prematurely failing causing a loss of pressure but they are good as new. will fit a new pressure guage next and see what the readings are.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Ben

yes it was re built about a year ago but didnt get a new oil pump. droped the sump about a month ago to cure an oil leak and while i was doing it i removed a main cap to check the bearings, as i thought they may be prematurely failing causing a loss of pressure but they are good as new. will fit a new pressure guage next and see what the readings are.

---

Who built it if ya don't mind asking?

check your getting 45 psi or more at 3500 revs get a few magnets on the bottom of that sump also.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by RICHIE

check your getting 45 psi or more at 3500 revs get a few magnets on the bottom of that sump also.

---

^ good advice

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Os8472

^ good advice

---

built the engine myself, apart from having the pistons attached to the con rods by an engineering company (didnt fancy mucking them up)will check the pressure is holding at 45psi as soon as i can get some time on it will try a couple of magnets on the sump too and see what turns up.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Ben

built the engine myself, apart from having the pistons attached to the con rods by an engineering company (didnt fancy mucking them up)will check the pressure is holding at 45psi as soon as i can get some time on it will try a couple of magnets on the sump too and see what turns up.

---

I remember seeing that @ Nat day wasn't a pretty sight seeing that VNT in the condition it was 20 mins later you were back on track running a T2:D

same here, i was parked infront of it, red one wasn't it? i remember the smoke lol

I was behind it when it went on the track, remember seeing red 5 then it disappeared under a big cloud of smoke:)

must have been like following oli testing the EF-aiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiii

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by markey b

must have been like following oli testing the EF-aiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiii

---

Hey I had no problems at national day

i'm not suprised with a 4k limiter... i was on about the 'last nite of the 5 to this day'... lol

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by James5

I remember seeing that @ Nat day wasn't a pretty sight seeing that VNT in the condition it was 20 mins later you were back on track running a T2:D

---

That was me m8:laugh: couldnt stand the thought of missing any track time so bought the t2 off a traider and wacked it on with the help of bigdanc.cant let small problems stop the fun:burnrubber:

Engine update
Got my spare crank blanaced, reground and some bearings ground to suit, finished painting the block and some of the bits and pieces that bolt to it, so I've started putting it together, gotta get some fresh piston rings then I can finish it and get sorting other things :)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/08...2022009211.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/08...2022009212.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/08...2022009213.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/08...2022009214.jpg

Right, since I started rebuilding my engine I've decided to alter a few bits and do a few things that I have on previous builds, first off I've replaced all the normal bolts that hold all the brackets on the block
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/08...2/Newbolts.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/08.../Newbolts2.jpg



And to go with the new colour scheme I got my spare rocker cover and stripped all the paint off and angle grinded the unused brackets and got going with the red oxide primer
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/08...72/Rocker3.jpg

A quick coat of white primer
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/08...472/Rocker.jpg

Now I have 1 problem, my original plan was to paint the rocker black with Renault airbrushed in red on the side but now I'm wondering what it'll look like in red all over

Update time, first off things have gone a little tits up, namely my pistons aren't exactly round anymore, oh well, good job I've got a new set left from a liner set I bought a year ago.

Next the rocker cover, I've changed the plan a little, the grouve in the top has now been smooth out and I've stuck on a badge and painted it in, I think I may take it off and get a proper Renault badge though, not sure yet
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/08.../NewRocker.jpg

To go with the new colour of the block and rocker cover the rest of the ancilieries need attention to fit in with the new scheme, I spotted this ad for sale on ebay from china awhile back but I wasn't sure about the quality cus they were so cheap but a few people on here have bought sets and the've been spot on, as good as the major branded versions so what the hell its only 168quid compared to the 350quid for the branded stuff.

Overnight parts from Shanghi
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/Box.jpg

A full set of coolant and breather silicone hoses in lovely black :)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/Hoses.jpg

And the typical first thing done with new trumpet shaped hoses
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/08...72/Trumpet.jpg

I've also decided to take advantage of the engine being out to replace the old brake master cylinder and brake lines and hoses, a new cyclinder is 40quid from GSF, Lovely :), steel braid hoses, 25quid off ebay, sorted, the look on the BMW drivers face when I out brake him, Priceless :D

Defo ditch the badge on the rocker matey looks ****e, apart from that am liking the rest. Keep up the hard work:agree:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by James5

Defo ditch the badge on the rocker matey looks ****e, apart from that am liking the rest. Keep up the hard work:agree:

---

I'm kinder thinkin that aswell but I may get the Renault lettering and put that on there in a Gordini stylee

Looking good Oli, agree with the badge though....its gotta go !! :D

Ok the turbo badge is going

chrome rocker cover or leave it rusty lol

Good work.I think the badge looks ok but i prefer chrome rockers.

Chrome is just somit else to keep clean and it doesn't make you go any faster

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Os8472

Chrome is just somit else to keep clean and it doesn't make you go any faster

---

Neither does R E N A U L T

lol. Ditch that idea mate.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Trevhib

Neither does R E N A U L T

lol. Ditch that idea mate.

---

priceless :)

it was goin real good then you spring the badge on the
rocker on us all.....eewwwwwwwwww!!!!!!

:p

Today I spent a few hours gettin on with sorting the brakes, I've already fitted the new master cyclinder ans stripped the copper lines out of the front and fitted the steel braided lines on the front, next I moved to the back and removed the old copper lines and replaced them, amazingly out of all the unions on this 23 year old car only 1 was screwed.
Fitting the rear braided lines ws easy and the new copper lines look the tits, next would've been the lines from the master cyclinder to the bias valve but when I started looking a them they were in mint condition so i left them alone.
My next result was the handbrake cable, i though it would need replacing but it turns out the adjuster was wound right out, so a few mins winding it in and I have a decent handbrake:)

With the engine waiting on a new set of pistons and the front brakes waiting for the garantee work to be finished I've started doing some other jobs I've been putting off, the main one being the engine bay loom.

My old one is now 23 years old and has had bits chooped out, melted wires, knackered connectors so its time to replace it but I sure as hell wasn't gunna pay K-tec 138quid they want for there one, so out came me crimp tray and reels of auto wire and I got busy making my own, gotta get some split loom to cover it and a new water proof plug for the end but all is good, cost me about 25quid to make and its custom to suit my engine as I no longer have the factory oil pressure gauge and I have a switch on the dash for the rad fan instead of thermostat in the rad.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/08...2/Newloom2.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/08...72/Newloom.jpg

Due to all the death threats and the warning that if it wasn't removed I'd be banned from the RTOC for life the turbo badge has gone from the rocker cover, my apologize to the RTOC and everyone who owns or has every owned an R5GTT

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Os8472

Due to all the death threats and the warning that if it wasn't removed I'd be banned from the RTOC for life the turbo badge has gone from the rocker cover, my apologize to the RTOC and everyone who owns or has every owned an R5GTT

---

that just makes you look stupid mate :( do what YOU want to do to YOUR car!

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Nayls

that just makes you look stupid mate :( do what YOU want to do to YOUR car!

---

I wasn't sure about it before anyone had said anything

With this new build I intend to take my time and get everything done right first time instead of bodging it like I have in the past, take this next part for instance, when I did the EFI conversion I just left the map sensor and boost control valve sat behind the bulk in amoungst a jubble of wiring from the ECU, this time I've taken a off cut of carbon from my door cards and made a plate for them to sit on on the front face of the bulk head for all to see and to allow for easy acess

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/08...AP-BOOSTCV.jpg

With CGB being a pain and not sending out my pistons even though I've paid for them:mad:

I had to change my plan, fortunatly JP came to the rescuse with thr missing piston, top man thanks :agree:

I dropped my rods and the new pistons off at my local machine shop and with luck they'kk be ready for tomorrow night and then I can finally finish the bottom end and get it and the gearbox back in the car and get on with putting it back together

Right I have me pistons back and I'm gunna put them in the block 2day to finish the the bottom end.

Due to GSF not having any GTT steering racks in stock I've had to chuck the old rack back in for the time being but heres the wierd bit, its still heavy but the play in it has gone, sometimes these french cars are just plain strange.

With the garantee work in the engine bay complete I've been able to make up the last copper brake line, refill and bleed the system, took ages and help form James Butterworth (brother of MarkyB) and I now have brakes that feel how brakes should and not what they were like when I got the car.

My plan was to have the old girl up and running by the 26 april ready for a local classic car show but it looks like I may have to get it towed there, that is unless I can get a couple more days off between now and then.

Right I've finally got off me arse and got the bottom end finshed, fitted the flywheel and clutch and mated it to the gearbox reday to go back in the car, with any luck I'll have that done before the end of the week and then I can get on with plubing everything back in again, still waiting on my tubular manifold though, hope its finished soon or it could hold things up

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Nayls

that just makes you look stupid mate :( do what YOU want to do to YOUR car!

---

Taking people's advice on this site is stupid?

The reason the badge faux pas was pointed out was as it was in contradiction to the chrome rocker cover assertion, not because either mod sits on some list of RTOC-banned smeg-ups (Red Dwarf reference there).

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Trevhib

not because either mod sits on some list of RTOC-banned smeg-ups (Red Dwarf reference there).

---

but it did look dog**** tho.... lol :cooter:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by markey b

but it did look dog**** tho.... lol :cooter:

---

I couldn't possibly comment :wasntme:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Trevhib

I couldn't possibly comment :wasntme:

---

Yes all right it wasn't my best idea:rolleyes:

thursday is the day oliver!!

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by markey b

thursday is the day oliver!!

---

yep, hope it all goes well

Its in at last, took 45mins but the bottom end and gearbox are in the car, need some new bolts for the engine mounts and the box needs a clean up but its startin to look good again, tomorrow I'm spending about 5 hours refitting the drive shafts, cleaning the box, fitting the rad, header ttank, degassing tak, starter, rewrapping the down pipe, fitting the wiring loom, fitting the carbon plate mounting the map sensor and boost control solenoid and loads of other bits, should have some good progress pics by saturday night :)

Finally got some pics uploaded

The bottom end and gearbox went in thursday night with my spare head to hold everything in place
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/08...2/enginein.jpg

Spent saturday morning fitting the drive shafts, rewrapping the down pipe, fitting the wiring loom, fitting some of the coolant hoses and offering up the rad and the other hoses
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/08...edplumbing.jpg

Did abit of arty farty and painted the end plate for the head in red to match the block
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/08...2/endplate.jpg

Well everything was going to plan saturday, I got everything reconnected, replumbed and filled ready to give the new engine its first crank, but thats where it all went wrong, because I've made a new CrankPositionSensor bracket the sensor is in a different place to where it was before and now I just can't get my head round setting the ecu to account for its new position.

All I need to do is get some beers in me and read the manual :(

Although it wasn't running the 5 did make it to its first show of 2009 thanks to Jez at Carrera
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/COTG.jpg

Remember the blue boost hoses are gunna be replaced with black ones when they turn up and there's still a tubular manifold and external wastegate to go in but here's the new look to the bay
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/08...72/rocker4.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/bay2.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/bay3.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/bay.jpg

good work oli :)

:agree:

All the shiney bits need a good clean and I' gotta redo the carbon mount for the map sensor and boost control valve but its looking good again :)

looking good Oli :)

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Os8472

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/COTG.jpg

---

i love this pic!! just need jp's and carters and its the suffolk posse!! lol

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by markey b

i love this pic!! just need jp's and carters and its the suffolk posse!! lol

---

and Handy Andy

New poster! (less than 10 posts)

Yes but handy andy is not from suffolk :) so it's not allowed lol:coffee:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by JP Racing

New poster! (less than 10 posts)

Yes but handy andy is not from suffolk :) so it's not allowed lol:coffee:

---

Good point, the vile norfolk boy shall not be allowed lol

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by markey b

i love this pic!! just need jp's and carters and its the suffolk posse!! lol

---

ime sure H335 HRK would look good in that pic also :cooter:

It would but u ain't in suffolk, sufolk gtt's only :wasntme:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LgCB38WSdNE

here ya go alex, HRK in da house...

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1...redline125.jpg

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by markey b

here ya go alex, HRK in da house...

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1...redline125.jpg

---

Ah good times:D

very nice car's!!!!:eek::cool:

I have just bought a sneaky little mod for the Toaster, been thinkin about 1 of these for ages, I dunno about anyone else but when I come home at 1 in the morning my loud exhaust is waking the neighbours and getting me in trouble so I've just ordered 1 of these so I can make the Toaster alittle more stealth like when comin home late or so it can pass any noise tests at trackdays or just to remove a reason for the plod to pull me over

http://www.apexi-usa.com/products/?id=5326

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Os8472

http://www.apexi-usa.com/products/?id=5326

---

:scared:

watch out for the style police now lol

you have done a great job there;) thats one nice car

I reset all the valve clearences, changed the oil and filter, tweaked the timing and bloody hell what difference, when the new engine started it sounded like crap, tapping, banging and knocking all over the place, now its its perfectly quite and smooth, well apart from the sidey of course :D

I've put some plugs in the 5 thinkin that would be the cause of the missfire, nope that would be the HT lead that wasn't on properly:sad2:

It now revs nice and smooth, just got some ideling issues but that'll be fixed with abit of mapping, I hope.

Thanks to Handy Andy I now have a K-tec tubular manifold which is good cus I can now get the wastegate take off done but it somehow doesn't feel right because the only reason I got it is because he's stripping his ph1 and selling off the parts, end of an era with that car, I bloody loved it, sad to see it end its life in bits:cry:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Os8472

I've put some plugs in the 5 thinkin that would be the cause of the missfire, nope that would be the HT lead that wasn't on properly:sad2:

---

You spleen :rolleyes: :laugh:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Tiny Tim

You spleen :rolleyes: :laugh:

---

Don't say it:rolleyes:

For the first time this year, C122LHK has seen positive boost baby yeah :D

Thanks to steller effot by my mate Alex, my R5 now has an external wastegate, what we thought would be a 2 hour job turned into an 7 hour job but it was worth it in the end.

The first major hurdle was the fact the K-tec down pipe wouldn't clear the K-tec tubular manifold, so Alex got busy with the tig welder and added an extra inch onto the turbo elbow, then I heat wrapped it
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/ewg.jpg

Then we had a choise of were to come off the collector for the WG, we decided the easyest route would be under the turbo.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/ewg2.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/ewg3.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/ewg4.jpg

The screamer comes out just next to the chassis rail, I'll take some pics tomorrow

Right now the external wastegate is plumbed in I can get on with sorting other things out, first things first, the drive home after getting the wg fitted showed up a few issues

1. the brakes have god knows how much air in em but when they bite my head goes through the windscreen, abit of adjustment needed there.

2. while cruiseing its ok but when pulling away or accellrating there's a bad knocking sound, I thought it was the down pipe catching the drive shaft but its got at least an inch gap between them, I've got a feeling I fitted 1 of the new engine mounts wrong so engine is tipping back alot further than it should.

3. the brakes seem to be grinding on something, weather its a stone or somit caught between the pad and disc I don't know.

4. the throttle position sensor is way out and needs resetting.

5. the timing needs setting up properly with a timing light.

6. at idle its chucking loads of unburnt petrol out the exhaust, the fuel map defo needs adjustment till it gets properly mapped next month.

Sorted the grinding brakes, we won't mention that 1 of the pads was in back to front:scared:

Resetted the throttle position sensor and there's a massive improvement in drive abilaty.
With a prod from MarkyB the HT lead order was reversed and made no end of difference, looks like it had been running on the wasted spark:scared:

Still can't to the bottom of this vibration/knocking problem though, any ideas would be helpfull

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Os8472

With a prod from MarkyB the HT lead order was reversed and made no end of difference, looks like it had been running on the wasted spark:scared:

---

Cant see that making any difference?

Sounds like you should get it mapped before you mess on with it too much.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Ashy

Cant see that making any difference?

Sounds like you should get it mapped before you mess on with it too much.

---

I didn't think it would either but it ran so much better straight away, don't ask me why cus I ain't a clue

Well I've made some progress but also caused some issues

1. while the 5 was off the road I replaced the master cyclinder, the copper lines and the flexi hoses but it looks like when I fitted the master cyclinder I punchered the servo and its fooked :cry:

2. I've removed both front hubs to check the driveshafts to see if they are the cause of the vibration and found 1 wheel bearing slighty worn and the other in technical terms "completely ****ered" so time for 2 new bearings :cry:

3. While the driveshafts look and feel ok I wanna pull bake the cv boots to give them a proper check to see if I'm missing something but that can wait till I've done the bearings cus 1 of those could well be the problem

Right I've done my bearings and changed the driver side driveshaft and its reduced the noise alot, the bearings defo needed anyway.

The only thing left is the passenger side driveshaft but my spare is no good cus on the inner joint the roller that retains the pins has made a bid for freedom, is there anyway of fixing this or the shaft usless?

I know this won't go down well with some of the ppeps on here or any other forum for that matter but I've raised the rear suspension on my 5 20mm, why have I done this, so I can get the stance closer to the factory setup, just abit lower and stiffer in an attempt to improve the handling, that and so I can soften the rear damper settings cus my spine won't take much more

U know those days when u should have stayed in bed, well when I put the engine back in the 5 I was must have been having 1 of those days as I just found I'd put the rear mount together wrong aswell as the brake pad inccedent of which we'll never talk.

Good news I've found what was causing the vibration, turns out I'd snapped 1 of the bolts that holds the wishbone in half, a new bolt and bye bye vibration :D

Now if I'd could just get the brakes working again and fix the oil leak (damn sealing paste) it'll be all good

Seems Renault have replaced the old sump sealing paste with some new stuff, not cheap but it comes in a cool mini sealent tube, they claim it'll never leak, well only time will tell on that

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Os8472

Seems Renault have replaced the old sump sealing paste with some new stuff, not cheap but it comes in a cool mini sealent tube, they claim it'll never leak, well only time will tell on that

---

To be honest matey I gave up buying Thixo from Renault ages ago couldn't be arsed to keep paying Renault prices so now just use Loctite sump sealant and it has never leaked on me yet and used it on a few sumps now with no probs:D

Save the pennis on one part for the 5 and then spend the saved pennis on another part of the 5:laugh:

I use the mastixo paste, Only £6 a tube so not really expensive?

From what ive seen it sets better than most instant gasket, i had to lever my sump off after using it! I ran out of it when re-fitting my sump, Used the payen stuff i got with the bottom end set & thats started to leak..

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Brigsy

I use the mastixo paste, Only £6 a tube so not really expensive?

From what ive seen it sets better than most instant gasket, i had to lever my sump off after using it! I ran out of it when re-fitting my sump, Used the payen stuff i got with the bottom end set & thats started to leak..

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£6.00 is that all it is :laugh: the last time I went was about a year ago and they wanted £15.00 ish for it.

mine has got the GSF cork gaskets, and its not leaking a drop, which makes a nice change for my car lol

Quote:

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Originally Posted by markey b

mine has got the GSF cork gaskets, and its not leaking a drop, which makes a nice change for my car lol

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that is a change for yours, usally its its steam from the cracked liner lol

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Brigsy

I use the mastixo paste, Only £6 a tube so not really expensive?

From what ive seen it sets better than most instant gasket, i had to lever my sump off after using it! I ran out of it when re-fitting my sump, Used the payen stuff i got with the bottom end set & thats started to leak..

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wheres the best place to get that from mate ???

Well that all singing all dancing sealing paste from Renault that they claim will never leak, leaked and very badly I might add, had I not had an eye on the oil pressure gauge I'd be writing about how I missed the french car show cus I was busy pulling my engine out to replace the fecked bearings:mad:

Fortunatly a mate gave me the last of his sealing paste and on the saturday morning I got the car up on axle stands and resealed the sump again, this time it was fine and it made it all the way to rockingham and back with no probs

Did you give the paste 24hrs to go off, Works fine for me...

New poster! (less than 10 posts)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by markey b

here ya go alex, HRK in da house...

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1...redline125.jpg

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superb photographs!! :cool:

is it a cap carbon on the WHITE GT ?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Brigsy

Did you give the paste 24hrs to go off, Works fine for me...

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It had 48hrs to go off before I tryed it:(

You can tell I've finished running in the engine because on the way to and from FCS the 5 did 42.8mpg and today it just did 29.1mpg:D ya gotta love the boost

turbo toaster? is this the same car that had the huge rs500 intercooler hanging out the front end a few years back?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Pete@Backyard Racing

turbo toaster? is this the same car that had the huge rs500 intercooler hanging out the front end a few years back?

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Nope, it was near standard when I got it and its only had a forge front mount

Some times these cars really puzzle me, ever since I refirbed the brakes there has been what sounded like an air leak but I haven't been able to find it, today I spent a couple of hours getting a ferw jobs done ready for mapping on tuesday, plumb the wastegate upto the boost control solanoid, make up a new set of HT leads, adjust damper settings, adjust the timing.

Now the brakes seem normal again but I've done nothing to them, sometimes you gotta love these self repairing cars:D

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Pete@Backyard Racing

turbo toaster? is this the same car that had the huge rs500 intercooler hanging out the front end a few years back?

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Thats a different car mate

Just got home from a mapping session at Emerald, a quick chat to Dave and he sorted the timing issue I couldn't in just a few seconds (damn he's good) and then it was on with the mapping.

Just before I converted it to EFI it made 189bhp and 193ft lb at 20psi and here's the print out from the latest session

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/08...72/7psimap.jpg

Yep thats right 120bhp and 125ft lb at 7psi and unfortunatly thats as far as we got due to a pin hole leak in the manifold gasket causing unstable idle and the fact I was sent non supressed HT leads instead of supressed leads causing a misfire at mid to high range, Dave felt it would be better to sort these out before trying to wind the boost up any further and risk somit breaking, I had to agree with him and returned home, but at 6grand with the wastegate open and the screamer unleashing HELL :D

not bad, that's 14hp up on a standard engine at that boost :agree:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Andrew Cooke

not bad, that's 14hp up on a standard engine at that boost :agree:

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yep but it should make more at that boost once I've fixed the air leak and replaced the HT leads but to be honest that map is just for day to day driving, the other 2 maps will be the power maps for track and drag, should be interesting to see what power they put out

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Andrew Cooke

not bad, that's 14hp up on a standard engine at that boost :agree:

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Hold onto your hats!!! :burnrubber:

You know theres only one toaster anyway!! ;)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Ashy

Hold onto your hats!!! :burnrubber:

You know theres only one toaster anyway!! ;)

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hey after nearly 8 months with only a 4500rpm rev limit and boost that does what ever it likes, it feels bloody quick again:D

just gotta do a couple of things and then I can wind it up and make some serious power again :D

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Os8472

hey after nearly 8 months with only a 4500rpm rev limit and boost that does what ever it likes, it feels bloody quick again:D

just gotta do a couple of things and then I can wind it up and make some serious power again :D

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go'go GO !!

:burnrubber::p

Quote:

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Originally Posted by J$£5GTT

go'go GO !!

:burnrubber::p

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You wouldn't believe how much fun I had with only 120bhp on the way home, god how I've missed being able to rag it

Right I've changed the HT leads for the proper resistive jobs and there is a slight improvement but the air leak is defo causing problems but I've got a feeling I may have miss diagnoised where it is, till now I've been asuming the manifold gasket is leaking but what I forgot the brakes are still knackered.

So my first job is to drop into Renault monday afternoon and get a fresh master cyclinder seal as I think I may have screwed up the install of the last one.



Oh and by the way, SCREAMER PIPES RULE :D

Any further on Oli???

Wasn't the master cyclinder seal, next job, engine out, new servo and pray it works cus the dreaded MOT is up at the end of the month:scared:

you d'ont need to take the engine out to change the servo just take the driveshaft off and it drops down and comes out under your wheel arch;)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by turbo ted

you d'ont need to take the engine out to change the servo just take the driveshaft off and it drops down and comes out under your wheel arch;)

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Really, but it'll still be a bitch to get the master cyclinder off and not cover myself in brake fluid

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Os8472

Really, but it'll still be a bitch to get the master cyclinder off and not cover myself in brake fluid

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yo dont need to undo any of the brake lines... 2x 13mm nuts and move the master cyl out the way

un bolt the master cylinder from the servo do not disconnect the brake lines pull the master cylinder up out of the way by bending the pipes then unbolt the servo from foot well undo pin from brake pedal push servo out it does come out with the master cylinder still connected but it is very very tight its alot less work than taking a engine out and you d'ont have to bleed the brakes just make your knuckles bleed instead:D

Quote:

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Originally Posted by turbo ted

un bolt the master cylinder from the servo do not disconnect the brake lines pull the master cylinder up out of the way by bending the pipes then unbolt the servo from foot well undo pin from brake pedal push servo out it does come out with the master cylinder still connected but it is very very tight its alot less work than taking a engine out and you d'ont have to bleed the brakes just make your knuckles bleed instead:D

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Oh good, I've been looking for a way to waste some blood lol

Damnit, last year just before the MOT I replaced the horn and the drivers side headlight as both were knackered, this just before the MOT both need replacing again as the horn had stopped working and the headlight has a bloody great hole in it from a large stone.

Fortunatly MarkyB came to my rescue with a spare headlight and horn, even more fortunatly I got my horn working again :)but I did have to change the headlight :(

Yes its offical, the problem with my brakes was my doing:rolleyes: looks like I hadn't quite got the master cyclinder square on to the rod in the servo cus when I took it off the rod was sitting on the inside lip and doing nothing, oh well, live and learn, at least I have brakes again, but now I have another problem, seems I've made them to good, it locks all four wheels with hardly any effort, wonder if I can bodge a ABS system on to it

Fecking sparkies!!!
:cooter:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by TNT ANDY

Fecking sparkies!!!
:cooter:

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You can talk ya house basher :wasntme:

Glad you got it sorted fella -:smokin:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by TNT ANDY

Glad you got it sorted fella -:smokin:

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Me too, the MOT is comin up fast and I was facing going to national day in my misses clio diesel, hardly a track weapon

have a brake have a kit kat....
:cartman:

Right since my car got resprayed my vin number on the strut top has been lost and with the MOT looming I thought best to do somit about it.

So a quick look on fleabay and 8 quid later a number/letter punch kit
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/Vin2.jpg

add a piece of 1.6mm ally
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/Vin3.jpg

and the V5 for the toaster
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/Vin4.jpg

and here we have the beginings of a vin plate, gunna take abit of practice to get it right though
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/Vin.jpg

have you not took a look at this site.? im sure they will replicate any vin plate, i think they require proof of such and such though!

edit: doh! i thought you ment the vin plate:ashamed:.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by raj

have you not took a look at this site.? im sure they will replicate any vin plate, i think they require proof of such and such though!

edit: doh! i thought you ment the vin plate:ashamed:.

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The vin number and the plate went missing during the respray.

Very handy site that, espcially when I need to copy a motor:D

MOT day and for the first time in the 3years I've owned my GTT I decided to get a proper test done, no cutting corners, no oh thats close enough on the emissions kind of test, a proper one, done by the strictest tester I know.

Big mistake

Took him all of 45mins to come up with 5 major faults and 4 advisories :cry:

The failures:-

1) Sidelights seem to be more blue than white
2) The brake lights stay on perminatly
3) The number plate mount is insufficiant
4) CO2 emissions too high
5) Hydrocarbon emissions too high

The advisories:-

1) Near side wheel bearing has minor play
2) Minor oil leak
3) Near side rear tyre down to within 2mm of wear indicators
4) Near side rear wearing unevenly

First off the failures
1) I had normal sidelight blubs in the glove box. Done
2) I hadn't adjusted the brake light switch when I did the servo, a couple of turns. Done
3) 2 Tie wraps through the mesh in the front Grill. Done
4) & 5) Plugged in laptop and checked which load site it was sitting in at idle and reduced the ijector duration until the car was close to stalling. Done

That got it a pass, but I wasn't happy with advisories
1) The front wheel bearings were only a month old so out came the torque wrench, nope hadn't done it up enough, play gone. done
2) Cleaned the oil away and went for a blast at full throttle, no oil leaking. Done
3) & 4) ah well ya can't win em all, the tyres have done 4 trackdays and over 10,000miles


Anyway, the Toaster is now the most legal it has ever been since I bought it :D

Roll on national day :D

Oli, you dont happen to have the phone number of the company who sold you the metal stamp kit do you??

Also you can buy blank vin plates on ebay. :)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Penfold

Oli, you dont happen to have the phone number of the company who sold you the metal stamp kit do you??

Also you can buy blank vin plates on ebay. :)

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This is the company

http://myworld.ebay.co.uk/magnifying.glasses.and.tools

Typical, for the first time in nearly fours years of owning the 5 I was a week away from national day with 100% confidence that it would make it with no problems


Spoke to soon, went out to it this morning and the battery was flat, dunno why, I was only driving it 4 hours before hand and my volt meter has been showing a constant 14volts since I got it back on the road, oh well on goes the charger, hopefully just a cold snap that it didn't like

All sorted, a quick top up of the battery fluid and a nice long charge of the mains and all is well again, even found time to dig out my track wheels, can't wait:burnrubber:

Because I was lazy, I didn't make a support for the wastegate and as the inevitable happened, the weight cracked my manifold, fortunatly my mate Alex has already fixed and given me strict instructions to make a breacket so it doesn't crack again, so thats why I ordered 4 rose joint track rod ends for a gokart, why you may ask, so I can make this

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/08.../WGSupport.jpg

1 End will bolt to the gear box directly below the wastegate and the other end goes on the end of 1 of the wastegates mounting bolts, I'm make 2 of these to connect to the wastegate and another 2 to take the weight of the turbo off the manifold aswell.
I've also got another pair coming but 1 with an left hand thread so I can make a adjustable altenator bracket that doesn't need 2 people to tighten it.

sounds a bit like my turbo support stick, and alternator tensioner :)

Are your joints all steel, or with PTFE liners?

Good idea that :agree:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Andrew Cooke

sounds a bit like my turbo support stick, and alternator tensioner :)

Are your joints all steel, or with PTFE liners?

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All steel, got any pics of your alt tensioner, it'd be interestin to see how you did compared to how I was plannin on doing it

#252 in my build

https://www.rtoc.org/boards/showthread.php?t=5149&page=6

took the 5 for mapping today it went well, until a few issues came up

the first being it seems the valves arn't sealing properly when they close, a reseat of the valves should sort that.

Second we checked the valve lift and each lobe came up different, infact they inlet valve lift varried by upto 2mm and the exhaust by upto 3mm, sounds like its eating itself to me, I have 2 standard cams in my shed so 1 of those should sort it.

Third being the main problem, although we got 19psi out of the turbo, for some reason the vnt didn't adjust, I'm thinking the actuator is fooked.

you're going to run full efi and a VNT with a standard camshaft ? that would be an astronomical waste ;)

there are a few good reasons

1. I have the cam already
2. The highlift I was using never did make much of a difference
3. I'm in the process of buying my first house so I can't afford to keep throwing money at it, I will have make the best with what I have

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Scoff

you're going to run full efi and a VNT with a standard camshaft ? that would be an astronomical waste ;)

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mine is a vnt on a std cam :scared:

oli, you'll have to make me an offer i can't refuse on my naughty cam :cooter:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by markey b

oli, you'll have to make me an offer i can't refuse on my naughty cam :cooter:

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A mars bar and a packet of ready salted crisps

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Os8472

A mars bar and a packet of ready salted crisps

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make it salt and vinegar and i'll let you touch it x

Quote:

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Originally Posted by markey b

make it salt and vinegar and i'll let you touch it x

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deal :laugh:

Went to a pub meet of a local forum today but before I went I had a play about with the actuator but didn't have a chance to try it until I was on the way home.

Feck me Mr Sulu!!! did you just hit the warp speed button!!!

it got to 3000rpm and I got 12psi of boost with the vanes turned and feck me did it go like an utter **** http://galleryserver.myff.org//smilies/icon_eek.gif :burnrubber:

I think I'm onto somit, I had used a bleed valve to get the vnt to increase boost beyond the factory 10psi but used the external wastegate to control it but the moment I closed off the bleed valve as if it wasn't there I got me boost back http://galleryserver.myff.org//smilies/icon_biggrin.gif

1 of the other issues I had on the dyno was the leak down test showing no. 1 & 2 loosing alot of pressure, since the only things I haven't down that would account for this area valve reseating and valve guides I've had a word with my local machine shop, basically it'd be 48quid to reseat the valves and fit the guides, the guides would cost between 4 and 9quid each, just need to find out what there made of, anyone know?

just read this whole thread

an wow uve had some problems, think yr on par with me lol

keep it up any more power figures and graphs yet

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Os8472

just need to find out what there made of, anyone know?

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metal... :cooter:

randalls can do bronze guides for about £8 each fitted last time i checked

Quote:

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Originally Posted by markey b

Last edited by markey b; Today at 15:34. Reason: removed the 'lol'

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:laugh: Billy will be proud :agree:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by markey b

metal... :cooter:

randalls can do bronze guides for about £8 each fitted last time i checked

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Helpfull as ever Butterworth:rolleyes:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by BriC

:laugh: Billy will be proud :agree:

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LOL

:D

Quote:

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Originally Posted by The new Bill J

:D

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ay up turkish boy...feelin licky??.....:cooter:

On saturday I decided to pull my finger out and get on with tweaking the boost control settings, so out came my laptop, exstension lead and my desktop monitor (the laptop battery died long ago and now the screen has packed up) a few clicks and I saved all of Dave's latest mapping efforts and then I began tweaking the settings.

The boost was being held back till about 3250rpm so I set the solinoid to open fully so I could see what the turbo would do, saved it and and went for a blat, spent 10mins getting everything nicely warmed up and then flicked the map switch and planted it.............. and then quciklyknocked it into neutral and got ready to cry:eek:

It revved up but didn't accelerate, only made a nasty grinding noise then seemed to go but started missfiring, I flicked the map switch back to 7psi I drove home but every time I got it on boost it started missfiring again :cry:

In dispair I parked up and went inside for a beer or 3 :beer::beer::beer:

Sunday morning I decided to have a look at the damage but couldn't find anything, so I figured I'd killed a spark plug and went to remove the first plug cap which fell to bits in my hand, so do the next 1, the other 2 had nasty looking cracks in them (I should explain I was using solid phenolic supressed plug caps which had a 10k ohm resistor inside to help block any electrical noise), with a local pub meet fast approching I got desperate and got an old set of HT leads and robbed the rubber boots and together with a spare set of plug terminals, I replaced the plug caps and crossed my fingers hoping they'd work.

Well bugger me if they didn't work but also work better than the plug caps, it now idles smoother, picks up from idle much better, revs more freely and drives alot more smoothly, why the feck didn't I do this sooner:scratch:

Oh well, leason learnt, took it out for a short blast last night to try again, didn't quite get the results I wanted and started heading home, till some ****er in an audi A3 thought he'd sit 2inches off my back bumper, so I let him past, flicked the map switch and planted it, feck me it went like a stabbed rat :burnrubber:, just had to remember to wave to the ****er as I sailed by :D

It did start to lean out higher up the rev range and the boost did start to creep but thats only cus the wastegate was being held shut by the solinoid and was letting the VNT's actuator do the boost control.

This weekend with some help from MarkyB I'm hoping I can get the settings correct so the boost doesn't creep anymore and richen up the mixture so the head stays in contact with the block.

good stuff oli,keep at it fella!!!
:agree:

Really do need to get the passenger side CV boot replaced, its not got any holes in it but keeps letting the grease out, a quick blob of cv grease and all is well again for another month :laugh:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Os8472

Really do need to get the passenger side CV boot replaced, its not got any holes in it but keeps letting the grease out, a quick blob of cv grease and all is well again for another month :laugh:

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zip tie..
:agree:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by J$£5GTT

zip tie..
:agree:

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Done that 3 or 4 times, didn't work

stainless tie, thats what renault use from the factory, a plastic one will never go tight enough

Quote:

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Originally Posted by markey b

stainless tie, thats what renault use from the factory, a plastic one will never go tight enough

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I know this but haven't had the time to get it done

Fecking A, I got the screen on my laptop working again, this means all I need to do is get a working battery and I can do mapping on fly :D

you want something like this:

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Car-Power-Inve...d=p3286.c0.m14

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Andrew Cooke

you want something like this:

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Car-Power-Inve...d=p3286.c0.m14

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I had a 150w inverter but the laptop killed it so I got a 300w invertor, only problem with it, is that it connects direct on to the battery terminals, not idel when driving along with someone in the passnger seat tweaking settings.

I could wire a cig plug on the end but I'm too lazy lol, besides I want a laptop that works with putting a drain on the car in any way.

Couldn't be arsed to get another battery for me laptop so I hooked up my inverter as Mr Cooke said and went and done some testing this morning, I've got the boost to sit around 11 - 12psi all the way round to the 6grand limit (7 when it goes for proper mapping) also got the fueling to sit near enough perfect aswell but there is one major problem with this new boost setting














I need new underware :eek: feck me it took off like a stabbed rat and showed no signs of slowing down at 130 :eek: if this is what it does at 12psi, what the feck is it gunna do at 22psi :scared:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Os8472

took the 5 for mapping today it went well, until a few issues came up

the first being it seems the valves arn't sealing properly when they close, a reseat of the valves should sort that.

Second we checked the valve lift and each lobe came up different, infact they inlet valve lift varried by upto 2mm and the exhaust by upto 3mm, sounds like its eating itself to me, I have 2 standard cams in my shed so 1 of those should sort it.

Third being the main problem, although we got 19psi out of the turbo, for some reason the vnt didn't adjust, I'm thinking the actuator is fooked.

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just spotted this. As far as I know, not all standard cams are the same, check the lobe lift on the ones you have, the best I've measured is 5.6mm.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Andrew Cooke

just spotted this. As far as I know, not all standard cams are the same, check the lobe lift on the ones you have, the best I've measured is 5.6mm.

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I have the original cam that this engine left the factory with, bearly had 60,000miles on it when I took it out

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Os8472

I have the original cam that this engine left the factory with, bearly had 60,000miles on it when I took it out

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but how much goodness does it contain?

https://www.rtoc.org/cam/?cam=std+GTT...vance=0&vc=0.2

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Andrew Cooke

but how much goodness does it contain?

https://www.rtoc.org/cam/?cam=std+GTT...vance=0&vc=0.2

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Looked mint when I oil and bagged it.

Seems the extra power is showing up another problem, the clutch is whats making the grinding noise, I recon the centre splines are on the way out, an annoyed phone call on monday it is then

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Os8472

Looked mint when I oil and bagged it.

Seems the extra power is showing up another problem, the clutch is whats making the grinding noise, I recon the centre splines are on the way out, an annoyed phone call on monday it is then

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at least puttin the stabilser bar in means that its gonna be clutch or diff, my money is on the clutch centre plate

Quote:

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Originally Posted by markey b

at least puttin the stabilser bar in means that its gonna be clutch or diff, my money is on the clutch centre plate

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I'll find out today when I strip it down, it let go on the way home last night, glad I'd stripped the car, was hard enough pushing it for a mile, a full fat r5 woulda been a killer

Got the box and clutch out this morning and the splines fooked, so I spent the rest of the day mopping MarkyB's raider, damn that was hard work, was never gunna look great, the thing is every panel painted in every different shade of raider blue:eek:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Os8472

Got the box and clutch out this morning and the splines fooked, so I spent the rest of the day mopping MarkyB's raider, damn that was hard work, was never gunna look great, the thing is every panel painted in every different shade of raider blue:eek:

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cheers boyo! your hard graft will be rewarded as i'll order a clutch 2mora and you get free 'deliver and fit' lol

Quote:

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Originally Posted by markey b

my money is on the clutch centre plate

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:agree:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by markey b

cheers boyo! your hard graft will be rewarded as i'll order a clutch 2mora and you get free 'deliver and fit' lol

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cheers bud

Damn no forward gears but I have reverse, sounds like a linkage problem but that was a ok before hand, oh well, further investigation required then

Bloody hell, I'm knackered, I've not had a day off work in 2 weeks and still have another week to go and hopefully moving house at the weekend and yet I just spent the last 4 hours taking out my old gearbox and fitting the new...... ish gearbox.

Its not completely back together but another hour would see it done, I would've finished it tonight but I've run out of light and my roast dinner is nearly ready so it can wait till mid week.

Its not completely back together but another hour would see it done, I would've finished it tonight but I've run out of light and my roast dinner is nearly ready so it can wait till mid week.[/quote]


No excuse, get out there with a floodlight and finish it :D;)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Kris M

Its not completely back together but another hour would see it done, I would've finished it tonight but I've run out of light and my roast dinner is nearly ready so it can wait till mid week.

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No excuse, get out there with a floodlight and finish it :D;)[/QUOTE]



I will but not tonight, to tired

I've finally got the time to finish putting the 5 back together and the results ain't good, the gearbox cleaned up a treat and looks great and it went in so easy but it went abit wrong when it came to the testing http://galleryserver.myff.org//smilies/icon_sad.gif





















For MarkyB's quater mile time, its gunna get an even bigger whooping, the old girl lives again http://galleryserver.myff.org//smilies/icon_biggrin.gif

There's a few small details to sort but the main thing is it works but I can now get on with making it go fast and that should be fairly easy http://galleryserver.myff.org//smilies/icon_biggrin.gif http://galleryserver.myff.org//smilies/icon_biggrin.gif http://galleryserver.myff.org//smilies/icon_biggrin.gif

Good work oli.

I had the same problem with one of my boxes, clutch was slipping so parked it up on driveway, whipped the engine/box out changed clutch, stuck it all back in same day and low and behold, reverse worked fine just couldn't go forward, wouldn't engage any gears.

Never did find out why, swapped it for a spare, it took it's place in the shed with the intention of having it looked at to find the problem but never did, got taken away in the back of a car I scrapped, if you find out why post it up as would be interesting to kno. I did ask the wizard, I think he was :smokin: as said I had put the clutch plate on back to front :scratch:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Os8472

For MarkyB's quater mile time, its gunna get an even bigger whooping, the old girl lives again http://galleryserver.myff.org//smilies/icon_biggrin.gif

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is should hope so, but you'll never have as much torque ah ha ha ha!

I've had a volt meter mounted in my dash where the old digi clock used to be but it never matched any of the other gauges I have and now its given up and died, so I decided to sort out somit different, now instead of going out and buying a new gauge I decided to box clever and pulled an old battery terminal out of my garage, it has a built in digi volt meter, I'd still be using it if the terminals didn't strip there threads. Anyway I decided to take the meter out and mount it in a plate so I can have it on the dash.

First off here's the old terminal
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/08...%20Meter/1.jpg
The meter removed from the terminal
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/08...%20Meter/2.jpg
I tapped the screw holes which also act as the live terminal to 3.5mm so some socket front screws would fit, next up I made a live lead and connected it to the gauge using the mounting screws
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/08...%20Meter/3.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/08...%20Meter/4.jpg
Next I got an old neon control box and removed the lid and marked where I need to cut
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/08...%20Meter/7.jpg
After drilling out a series of tiny holes and popped out the centre bit and got going with a file to smooth the edges
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/08...%20Meter/8.jpg
The finished product, now the mount is only a temp to see if it would work, eventually I'm going to make a new mounting plate out of carbon fibre
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/08...%20Meter/9.jpg
I did test it on an old battery but that was nearly flat and the led display didn't show up
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/08...%20Meter/6.jpg

Right next up I've had a crack at the heater control panel on my dash, I've had a stainless steel plate over the top for ages which allowed for a 52mm gauge inplace of the digi clock but now I wanted something different so I took the old stainless panel out and got some off cuts of carbon fibre.
First off here's the old panel
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/08...20Panel/H1.jpg
A nice shiney bit of carbon
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/08...20Panel/H2.jpg
A quick mask up and place the old panel over the top and draw round it
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/08...20Panel/H3.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/08...20Panel/H4.jpg
Some carefull cutting with a hacksaw
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/08...20Panel/H5.jpg
Next using a dremil I've cut out the fan switch and heater temp and direction knobs
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/08...20Panel/H6.jpg
Now again with the dremil I've cout the holes for the new volt meter
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/08...20Panel/H7.jpg
The finished articul, looks so much better than the old job and cost me nothing but time :D
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/08...20Panel/H8.jpg

bonsoir a toi !
je passe actuellement en gestion sybel avec allumage jumostatique ! (sur mon second GT TURBO )
et je doit faire comme toi , enlevé ma tête de delco et déplacés mes fils de bougie !
pourrais tu me donner le lien (voir tout les détails) de ce qui t'as permis de faire tes fils de bougie !!
car a pard chez CGB , je n'est rien trouver !!!
merci d'avance pour ton aide .


good evening you has! :cool:
I currently pass in jumostatic management sybel with lighting! (on my second TURBO WP)
and I must make like you, removed my distributer and moved my sons of candle!
could you give me the bond (see all the details) what you aces allowed to make your sons of candle!!
because has pard at CGB, I is not nothing to find!!!
thank you in advance for your assistance. :agree:

james's carbon heater panel has inspired you then oli? lol

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by markey b

james's carbon heater panel has inspired you then oli? lol

---

Didn't know he had one, I'm thinking I'll make up a few of these and see if anyone on here wants em

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by xenon

bonsoir a toi !
je passe actuellement en gestion sybel avec allumage jumostatique ! (sur mon second GT TURBO )
et je doit faire comme toi , enlevé ma tête de delco et déplacés mes fils de bougie !
pourrais tu me donner le lien (voir tout les détails) de ce qui t'as permis de faire tes fils de bougie !!
car a pard chez CGB , je n'est rien trouver !!!
merci d'avance pour ton aide .


good evening you has! :cool:
I currently pass in jumostatic management sybel with lighting! (on my second TURBO WP)
and I must make like you, removed my distributer and moved my sons of candle!
could you give me the bond (see all the details) what you aces allowed to make your sons of candle!!
because has pard at CGB, I is not nothing to find!!!
thank you in advance for your assistance. :agree:

---

I'd love to help you Xenon but I can't understand your english let alone your french

If anyone on here can speak french and translate for me that'd be helpfull

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by xenon

bonsoir a toi !
je passe actuellement en gestion sybel avec allumage jumostatique ! (sur mon second GT TURBO )
et je doit faire comme toi , enlevé ma tête de delco et déplacés mes fils de bougie !
pourrais tu me donner le lien (voir tout les détails) de ce qui t'as permis de faire tes fils de bougie !!
car a pard chez CGB , je n'est rien trouver !!!
merci d'avance pour ton aide .


good evening you has! :cool:
I currently pass in jumostatic management sybel with lighting! (on my second TURBO WP)
and I must make like you, removed my distributer and moved my sons of candle!
could you give me the bond (see all the details) what you aces allowed to make your sons of candle!!
because has pard at CGB, I is not nothing to find!!!
thank you in advance for your assistance. :agree:

---

I think he is roughly saying:

good evening,
I am currently working on wasted-spark ignition with sybel management [a brand, I guess ?] (on my second gt turbo)

I must do as you have, remove my distributor and move my HT leads. Can you give me a link (to see all the details) of what allowed you to move your HT leads.

[I think he's asking you what wasted-spark coil and HT leads you used]

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Scoff

I think he is roughly saying:

good evening,
I am currently working on wasted-spark ignition with sybel management [a brand, I guess ?] (on my second gt turbo)

I must do as you have, remove my distributor and move my HT leads. Can you give me a link (to see all the details) of what allowed you to move your HT leads.

[I think he's asking you what wasted-spark coil and HT leads you used]

---

I guessed it was somit to do with the ignition but didn't have a clue what, cheers Scoff.

This is where I got my HT leads from
http://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/

The coil pack was from a ford fiesta zetec

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Os8472

I guessed it was somit to do with the ignition but didn't have a clue what, cheers Scoff.

This is where I got my HT leads from
http://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/

The coil pack was from a ford fiesta zetec

---

thank you for information!!

and sorry for my English who and very bad!! :ashamed:

No worries chap, my french is rubbish so don't worry about it

your sister in law is french! lol

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by markey b

your sister in law is french! lol

---

I know:laugh:

Its been ages since I last did an update, so here we go.

First things first, the last Time I posted I'd just got a 14psi wastegate spring but hadn't fitted it
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/08...72/WG14psi.jpg

I did finally get around to fitting it and for the first time in over a year my 5 was boosting as it should and was going bloody fast.
Unfortunatly the same night I went to the misses place but enroute I hit a slight snag, namely this
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/08...72/OilLeak.jpg

One of the oil lines to the external cooler shifted and got caught by the auxiliy belt resulting in the oil making a bid for freedom:(

With abit of help from a mate I got it back home and stripped it down the next day only finding the damaged pipe after removing the head thinking I'd damaged that somehow.
Since the head was off I decided to take advantage and change the cam, port and polish the head and get the new valves guides done.
I've also made a few changes to the airfilter, namely it sits well behind the headlight enclosed in carbon.

First off I made some cardboard templates
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/08...n/DSC00676.jpg

Then transfered the templates onto a sheet of carbon that I've already covered with masking tape.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/08...n/DSC00677.jpg

After abit of hack sawing and some drilling the panels are ready, here they are in there final location, with abit of old red vacuum hose around the edge to neaten them up abit
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/08...n/DSC00678.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/08...n/DSC00679.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/08...n/DSC00680.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/08...n/DSC00681.jpg

Just to see how it'd look, I've sat the airfilter on the inner arch
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/08...n/DSC00683.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/08...n/DSC00684.jpg

Since the lower piece won't need to move anymore I removed the masking tape and fixed it permantly
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/08...n/DSC00685.jpg

Next thing I've done is much to my annoyence is sell the VNT and return to a normal type of turbo, I would love to have got the VNT working properly with EFi but time and money are now against me as I've bought a house, but the good news is I got 600quid for it, so that'll pay for the new turbo, the mods to fit it, the head work and the mapping and still leave 200quid after.

Thanks to JP who sold me his spare T25/28 hybrid

First things first you'll note the front housing is the same size as the front housing on my VNT (on the right), but its been matched to accept a slightly larger compressor wheel.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/08...o/DSC00660.jpg

It had a few bits missing, oil return, oil feed, actuator, all easy fixes with my stock of old turbos, there's a hybrid T2, the starion turbo off my S13, an actualy S13 turbo and a Saarb turbo.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/08...o/DSC00661.jpg

The Saarb turbo kindly donated its oil return.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/08...o/DSC00662.jpg

The lack of actuator is no problem as I had no intention of using it, a quick chop of the mounting bracket and the actuator off the Starion turbo and I have all I need to sort it.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/08...o/DSC00666.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/08...o/DSC00667.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/08...o/DSC00668.jpg

A session with a blow torch and the metal is glowing orange, ready to be bent round the brackt to lock the wastegate shut.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/08...8122009790.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/08...8122009791.jpg

next job the coolant lines, my VNT didn't have water cooling, this one does, so out come the silicone coolant hoses, but there's a problem, one of the hoses is suposed to come from the carb but I don't have a carb any more, so out comes the stanley knife, some jubilee clips and some ally tubing, job done, nice shiney coolant lines.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/08...o/DSC00670.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/08...o/DSC00671.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/08...o/DSC00673.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/08...o/DSC00675.jpg

With the relocation of the header tank to the scuttle area a number of coolant lines will pass through the area the factory oil catch can would sit, so its gotta be moved, out came some old ally sheet and I made up this mount, should do the job nicely
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/08...hCanMount2.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/08...chCanMount.jpg

While I've got the car in bits I'm also thinking about the handling side of things, for a long time I've had to have the front colover set fairly stiff to stop the body rol, even with polly bushes on the antiroll bar.

I've been looking at the mk1 megane and its much larger roll bar and weather it could be made to fit an R5, a quick trip to a scrappy and 5quid later I have a mk1 megane roll bar
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/08...2/DSC00733.jpg

Now all I need is the time to make it fit

what does the bar measure ? I thought the R5 non-turbo models were on the whole bigger than the GT Turbo bar.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Scoff

what does the bar measure ? I thought the R5 non-turbo models were on the whole bigger than the GT Turbo bar.

---

Well the stock one on mine was 19mm, the megane job is 25mm, only a 6mm increase but with polly bushes should do the job nicely.

I think the ends will need chopping down abit but should work, can't see why not, I took it off the car myself and the subframe was near as damnit the same as a GTT's

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Os8472

Well the stock one on mine was 19mm, the megane job is 25mm, only a 6mm increase but with polly bushes should do the job nicely.

I think the ends will need chopping down abit but should work, can't see why not, I took it off the car myself and the subframe was near as damnit the same as a GTT's

---

Should fit ok with a bit of a chop ;) Although i would be interested in measuring the stiffness of a few ARBs, i tried doing a deflection test in my vice with various bars but couldnt get repeatable readings...

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Alastair

Should fit ok with a bit of a chop ;) Although i would be interested in measuring the stiffness of a few ARBs, i tried doing a deflection test in my vice with various bars but couldnt get repeatable readings...

---

Would be interesting to get exact figures but in the absense of those I'll go for bigger is better, morning ladies;)

iv just spent quite a bit of time reading through this thread and boy has it been a rollercoaster if only you had put a normal turbo on there in the first place lol, what is the actual sepc of the engine, and how much has it cost to do the efi conversion if you dont mind me asking

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Os8472

Well the stock one on mine was 19mm, the megane job is 25mm, only a 6mm increase but with polly bushes should do the job nicely.

I think the ends will need chopping down abit but should work, can't see why not, I took it off the car myself and the subframe was near as damnit the same as a GTT's

---

When you find that doesn't fit grab yourself a williams/R19 bar, it's 23mm. You'll need to trim and reshape the ends a bit, but I'm sure it'll fit (I use one on my widetrack).

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Andrew Cooke

When you find that doesn't fit grab yourself a williams/R19 bar, it's 23mm. You'll need to trim and reshape the ends a bit, but I'm sure it'll fit (I use one on my widetrack).

---

:agree:
i was told to use that bar

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Andrew Cooke

When you find that doesn't fit grab yourself a williams/R19 bar, it's 23mm. You'll need to trim and reshape the ends a bit, but I'm sure it'll fit (I use one on my widetrack).

---

Just to clarify, does it need to be R19 '16v' model?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Woznaldo

Just to clarify, does it need to be R19 '16v' model?

---

Its a good bet as that was the range topper, now to find one in a scrappy, thats gunna be fun

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Woznaldo

Just to clarify, does it need to be R19 '16v' model?

---

good point, I *think* so..

Right progress this year has been slow, well actually I've done feck all on the car this year, so I've pulled my finger out and got on with a few things.

First off cheers to Scoff for the excellent uprated rear engine mount, looks the nuts in red
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/08...wrearmount.jpg

Got that in place straight away
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/08...untinplace.jpg

Also fitted some clips to the brake lines to tidy them up abit
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/08...epipeclips.jpg

This is kinda how the coolant lines have been routed, there's still bits I gotta do before there finished though
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/08...lantroute2.jpg

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Os8472

Its a good bet as that was the range topper, now to find one in a scrappy, thats gunna be fun

---

i had one at mine for bloody ages..... now its been scrapped.... i had the whole subframe with arms, hubs and shocks etc from my old cabby

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by markey b

i had one at mine for bloody ages..... now its been scrapped.... i had the whole subframe with arms, hubs and shocks etc from my old cabby

---

one word for yo Butterworth....... PPPPPPPRRRRRRRRIIIIIIIIICCCCCCCKKKKKKKKKK

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Os8472

one word for yo Butterworth....... PPPPPPPRRRRRRRRIIIIIIIIICCCCCCCKKKKKKKKKK

---

gta be faster than that ollie you wollie!!!

:cooter:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by J$£5GTT

gta be faster than that ollie you wollie!!!

:cooter:

---

I'd better run more boost then :burnrubber:

Right been at it again
Since the header tank is now sitting in the scuttle area I figured I should give it a clean
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/08...uttleclean.jpg

Both the coolant lines from the heater matrix are now finished and fixed
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/08...Coolantrun.jpg

Turns out OCD can be usefull, its a damn sight cleaner than it was before I started
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/OCD.jpg

lookin good oli!

dont suppose u got any spare alley tubing for the header relocation :p

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by markey b

lookin good oli!

dont suppose u got any spare alley tubing for the header relocation :p

---

You wanting to do the same are ya?

I do have some left yeah, you'll need lots of jubilee clips, some rubber gromets and alot of patience aswell

yeah, been meaning too for ages but too lazy to work out pipe sizes lol

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by markey b

yeah, been meaning too for ages but too lazy to work out pipe sizes lol

---

You lazy git, wait for me to do it then take advantage of everything I've learned:rolleyes:


I guess I could help ya

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/BMS1.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/BMS2.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/BMS3.jpg
Yay my BigJim downpipe turned up today and I gotta say its fecking beautiful, fits perfect, gives about 20mm of clearance of my ktec manifold (thank god, was quite worried about that) and best of all it lifts the centre section up 2inches meaning the exhaust doesn't hang down below the normal lower line of the car, so no more scrapes on speed bumps or during high speed B road blasts :D


Gotta heat wrap it and fit proper like but its utter sex in metal

Loving the project keep up the good work:cooter:

Got some proper pics taken of the downpipe
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/BJDP2.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/BJDP3.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/BJDP.jpg

compared to the ktec downpipe I had before
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/OVN.jpg

heat wrapped
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/HWAF.jpg

and fitted
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/HWAF2.jpg

clearence off the ketc manifold
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/HWAF3.jpg

the new found clearence underneth
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/HWAF4.jpg

the ktec exhaust manifold flange was massivelley thick compared to the inlet manifold flange and caused a minor leak, so to solve that I attacked the manifold with an angle grinder and took enough metal to even them up abit
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/FA3.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/FA.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/FA2.jpg

Right more stuff done and gettin bloody close to finishing it :D
Firsthings first, over night parts from Shanghi
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/ONPFS.jpg

A quick cut
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/TCTH.jpg


And my airbox is finally finished
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/FAFE2.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/FAFE3.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/FAFE.jpg

Next up the head, I'd dropped it off at a machine shop back at the start of january for new inlet valve guides, face skim, 3 angle cut valve seats and valves cut in, when I went to pick it up I got abit of bad news, turns out the exhaust valve in no.4 was bent and had cracked the valve guide :cry: dowt you could see it in the pic, I could hardly tell with it in my hand
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/08.../Bentvalve.jpg

Anyway after a brieff moment thinking, damn the head is scrap and I need to clean my spare head up, they delivered good news, they'd already fitted a new valve and exhaust guide, done all the other bits and made sure it was in perfect working order, top fellas they are at Randalls
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/RFH.jpg

Last but not least, I decided to give a few metal pipes a clean and repaint, after an hour of rubbing with a high grit aluminium oxide paper, a couple of coats of primer applied
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/08...hineybits2.jpg
Next 6 coats of red
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/08...shineybits.jpg

They still need to dry fully before I can lacquar them though

do you have washers under the manifold nuts? It doesn't look like it, I think you should have.

btw, I've made stepped washers in the past to correct for differences in manifold thickness :)

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Andrew Cooke

do you have washers under the manifold nuts? It doesn't look like it, I think you should have.

btw, I've made stepped washers in the past to correct for differences in manifold thickness :)

---

I do normally, the manifold was bolted to my spare head at that point to make sure everything fitted properly

I'm at the stage now that I need to prep the head before it gets bolted on, so we'll start by making it look nice

THe end plate and belt guide repainte in red
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/08.../ENDPPaint.jpg

Stripped the inlet manifold and cleaned it up
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/CUM.jpg

One of the new oil breather hoses
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/OBH.jpg

The end plate reassembled
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/EPF.jpg

The head half built
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/HAS1.jpg

The head back together and ready to go
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/HAS2.jpg

looking good, do you run an external wastegate then?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Ashy

looking good, do you run an external wastegate then?

---

Have done since july last year, I coulda done away with it with this turbo but I love the sound it makes so much plus its a 37mm gate where as the internal gate on the turbo was only 28mm so it'll be able to control the boost alot easyer

Got quite abit more done to the car, the new 285degree piper cam and adjustable vernier are in and timed up, thanks Handy Andy.

Was gunna spend all out the weekend just gone get it back together but not all went to plan, thursday night while undoing the clutch cover plate bolts 2 snapped off in the flywheel, leading to this
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/EF.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/EF2.jpg

Ohwell got on with a couple of other bits, the old clutch cable was abit cooked and when I got it out was 20mm longer than the brand new one I got from renault :shock:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/OCC2.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/OCC.jpg

I've fitted a soft pedel conversion to the clutch to make it alittle better to drive
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/SPA.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/SPC.jpg

Went to a scrappy with Andy to lend a hand pulling a few bits he needed off a motor and had a stroke of luck, found an R5 with nearly brand new headlights
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/NHL.jpg

And it also had a mint condition rocker cover, it even still had the sticker for the plug gap on it
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/NRC.jpg
Got those for 30quid, not bad considering 1 new headlight is 60quid

Had a result on ebay and got a chrome altenator bracket for a fiver
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/CAB.jpg

Got alot of stuff yesturday, the head is back on and for the most part the engine is built back up but the stainless gasket I had for the manifold to turbo has gone missing, which is really annoying cus I put it with the turbo elbow gasket and thats still there.

The new clutch arm is very close to the rad fan but clears the rad itself just fine, another 10mm longer and I'd have to move the fan but it should be ok
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/CAC.jpg

I got some new 6mm vacuum hose instead of the 4mm I've been using up to now for the wastegate lines plus I've also routed it in a way so it looks abit less tatty but I'm gunna add some little clips to tidy it up some more
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/NWVP.jpg

Here's the new layout albeit still needing some bits finishing
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/NRLO.jpg

Had a result on ebay last night, I got a GT Tuning ram raid induction kit for an R5, back in the day these were dyno proven to gain 7bhp, Its gunna need alittle bit of modding to sit behind my airbox but should go nicely
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/GTRR.jpg

Update time, I've modded the GTTtunning ram raid kit to suit my carbon airbox and hopefully improved its flow aswell, I'll post up some pics of that when I have 5 mins.

I've had the car running and on the road for 3 days now as a shaked down to make sure everything is right and when I say shake down I mean SHAKE down, Scoff, your rear engine mount is excellent mate and would be absolutely perfect for a drag and track only car but I think its just that little bit to stiff for a semi road car, shame it looks the muts nuts, oh well my fault for thinking it would be ok on the road.

Can't believe how quick this day has come round, its monday 22nd march and I'm off to Emerald for mapping, fingers crossed all will go well, I'm confident the engine will be ok, its the gearbox that concerns me right now.

Expected power, well I was hoping for around 220bhp but Handy Andy seems to think it'll be 235bhp min, I'm not so sure but hey we've bet a dominos pizza on the result:agree:

i recon what ever it comes out at, it'll still be less than my ginger one :cooter:

how she do?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by markey b

i recon what ever it comes out at, it'll still be less than my ginger one :cooter:

---

:laugh:...always go for the ginger or feisty red ones for a bit of fun..:cooter:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by J$£5GTT

:laugh:...always go for the ginger or feisty red ones for a bit of fun..:cooter:

---

gingers rule!!!


C'mon Oli - Watcha get
:confused:

once you've posted figures, then work out bhp per £ spent.... :cooter:

just kiddin dude, i have alot of time for your old wagon :agree:

This is the standard GTTuning ram raid induction kit, basically a K&N element for a R5 GTT with a throttle body trumpet in one end.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/GTRR.jpg

But this is the down fall, the trumpet starts a good 2inches up inside the filter
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/GTT3.jpg

Stripped down
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/GTT2.jpg

Cardboard template
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/GTT5.jpg

Bottom plate
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/GTT4.jpg

Repositioned trumpet
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/GTT8.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/GTT6.jpg

And the filter in its new home
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/GTT9.jpg

After mapping today I had to give it a squirt on the way home and at 14psi it decided to brake its own bonnet mounts at the front and make a bid for freedom :shock:
So abit of modding is in order, the standard bonnet mount with the factory circlip

removed for quick release
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/BP1.jpg

Abit of drilling and a clip, job done
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/BP2.jpg

Nice work oliver, you've got some good ideas, i like alot.:):agree:

I guess its time to report on the mapping

Well it started fairly badly, having damaged an intercostal muscle (I can't spell so don't say it) I couldn't investigate a misfire the car had under a certain amount of throttle, I had to hope it was just down to the fact the car now has a piper 285 cam, ported head and new turbo and needed mapping but alas it wasn't.

At first Dave thought it was the overlap on the cam being to much but a quick check of valve lift disproved that, so he got down to some mind bending mapping work, the guy is bloody impressive to watch.

Although it wasn't a mapping issue Dave was able to map around it as such until a time as I can Id the problem and sort it so he can finish the job properly.
I asked Dave to set the car up with 3 boost levels, 8psi for day to day driving and motorway crusing, 14psi for track use and 22psi for drag use.
Well best get on with the results, can't tell you how much it made at 8psi as I forgot that print out.

At 14psi it made 169.9bhp and 172.4ft lb
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/14PSI.jpg

And at 22psi it made 211.5bhp and 203ft lb
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/22PSI.jpg

Now straight away looking at those graphs you can see somit ain't right as the power drops off fast after around 5500rpm to 6000rpm, Dave is convinced the cam is too wild to work properly with my efi plenum but I think the cam timing is out so at some point I'm gunna have to whip the timing cover off and go over it to find out for sure.

In the mean time, I'm off, gotta go find me a scooby to waste :D

does he know that a 285cam doesn't have 285deg duration?

you might want to show him this:

https://www.rtoc.org/cam/?cam=std+GTT...vance=0&vc=0.2

do you have an original 285 with 112deg LSA or the newer one with 110deg? Either way that's a pretty mild cam.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Andrew Cooke

does he know that a 285cam doesn't have 285deg duration?

you might want to show him this:

https://www.rtoc.org/cam/?cam=std+GTT...vance=0&vc=0.2

do you have an original 285 with 112deg LSA or the newer one with 110deg? Either way that's a pretty mild cam.

---

When I told him he dissappered off for 20mins and came back after calling piper and getting the specs direct from them, he then change his mind about the overlap and began looking at other things.

It was the 285 out of Handy Andy's old engine, you'd have to ask him which one it is

do you have access to the fuel and ignition maps?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Andrew Cooke

do you have access to the fuel and ignition maps?

---

Can do, just gotta pick up me laptop tomorrow and I can send em to ya

Right I have a list of things to check they may have caused the problems from yesterday, but I'd like ideas from you guys on what it could be so I'll try and discribe the problem as best I can.

At low rpm under heavy load it misfires continusly but will rev past it and rev cleanly after all the way upto 7000rpm

The power drops off fast after 5500-6000rpm but with a 285cam and a turbo of this size it should keep pulling beyond 7000rpm

The idle speed is all over the place and sometimes it will cut out at juctions and the like

And finally its not making the power it should, JP and Handy Andy recon its at least 20bhp down

Any ideas?

Main jet too big... :wasntme:

Sorry, I'm not able to help but I've been more interested in this project again in the last few months since you've been more focused again. Good luck getting it sorted. It must already be bloomin' fast.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Trevhib

Main jet too big... :wasntme:

Sorry, I'm not able to help but I've been more interested in this project again in the last few months since you've been more focused again. Good luck getting it sorted. It must already be bloomin' fast.

---

put it this way, there's a section of duel carriageway near me thats used for cough testing cough, and it just blew my old best top speed into the weeds at only 14psi, I'm too scared to use 22psi yet:scared:

This is the ignition map at 22psi
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/08...2/Ignition.jpg

A this is the injection map at 22psi
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/08.../Injection.jpg

Hi Oli,

Just looking at your maps there, am I reading this right??? It looks like you're too rich top end, I would have thought that 12.00 - 12.50 afr would be more in the park for max power. :confused:

Looks like you're at about 10.25 WOT Maybe a little too safe:confused:

it looks too rich as it's spooling too. leaning it out a little there will help spool the turbo. your ignition map looks fine enough on the whole, up until about 80% tps, then you have more timing going in ? Thats quite a bit of timing for a C1J, are you low compression ?

no scoff he is running standard compression, seems strange as hi five is running a similar set up, could it be his throttle body causing the probs, as it has a 75mm tall neck on it before hits the body of the manifold,(all of the over inlet manifolds used seem to have the throttle body directly fitted to inlet )maybe causing flow issues?:confused:seems strange how everybody else with efi has no probs with the 285 cams, oli is also running a cheap fuel pressure reg which may also be adding to probs (90%) duty cycle@22psi, any ideas ? i am only guessing here:scared:

forgot to add cam was at 110 when fitted ,think oli has tryed 6 +/-degrees to see if it made any difference:crap: he also had this misfire (problem )with his old vnt ,but the t28 seems to have highlighted the problem more sinse being fitted:confused:

Right best I clear up a few details

1) The missfire isn't a mapping issue and Dave did his best to map around it which means some of the numbers aren't perfect for the engine

2) Although I'm using standad comp pistons the head has had a couple skims so if anything the comp ratio is up

3) The missfire I had with the VNT was in the same missfire I have now but I only had a 275cam then, I'm guessing with a 285cam its showing up more

4) The fuel pressure reg isn't great but it is holding enough pressure to do the job so thats not the cause, but I'm still going to change it as its a cheap and nasty piece of kit and I'd rather not loose an engine due to a cheapo reg

5) I've gone over everything I can think of that may cause the missfire and the only thing I haven't been able to disprove is the flow design of the inlet manifold, fortunatly TNT Ross has come up trumps with one of those modded stock gtt manifolds with the injectors mounted in some exteneded runners, so I'm try that and see what happens

Hi Oli

I definately think you need to re visit the timing > 80% throttle, it looks a bit scary to me. I'm assuming Dave monitored for knock when mapping your motor ? Maybe the over rich AFR is calming things down :)

When you say misfire, do you mean ignition or injector related ? Can you log a pull to check that the ECU isn't loosing sight of the crank etc ? Does it only happen at a specific RPM then clear ?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by HAndy

no scoff he is running standard compression, seems strange as hi five is running a similar set up, could it be his throttle body causing the probs, as it has a 75mm tall neck on it before hits the body of the manifold,(all of the over inlet manifolds used seem to have the throttle body directly fitted to inlet )maybe causing flow issues?:confused:seems strange how everybody else with efi has no probs with the 285 cams, oli is also running a cheap fuel pressure reg which may also be adding to probs (90%) duty cycle@22psi, any ideas ? i am only guessing here:scared:

---

Honestly don't know andy, all I can tell you is that I took my time with glenn's to make sure that it was as good as it could be. I wouldn't worry too much about the duty, AFR's in the 10's might explain most or all of that. I guess fuel pressure was checked under load too ?

I've tried the standard timing map you sent me Scoff and the miss is still there so I don't think its a mapping problem.

Yeah Dave monitored for knock.

Dave showed me the log at the end of the day so I could see it wasn't anything to do with the ecu (he's had a few people say its his fault but it turns out was thiers) I'll admit Dave proberbly doesn't know enough about the C1J to map it perfectly but the basics are still the same as any other engine.

It happens from around 2400rpm to 3200rpm but only at more than a quater throttle it will miss but will rev past and pull clean all the way to 7000rpm.

I've had the injectors flow tested which came back clear, I've tried a dozen different spark plugs, no change, HT leads have been changed twice, no change, the coil pack has been changed again no change.

The thing that makes me think manifold aswell is the fact the power drops off fast after 5500rpm-6000rpm even though the turbo is still holding boost perfectly, JP said somit about it still making more power after 7000rpm so it can't be that.

Tell ya what Scoff, if this manifold of Ross's doesn't sort it, at Frog of the pod I'll take you for a blast and you can see for yourself

Earths, fuel filter?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by T.K

Earths, fuel filter?

---

I've had extra earths to my engine and the associated electrics ever since I bought it.

The fuel filter was brand new when I did the conversion, is still mint

What about the ECU? How is that earthed?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by T.K

What about the ECU? How is that earthed?

---

Earthed through its own casing to the metal work next to the battery and has a dedicated earth the battery as per the Emerald instructions

Oli, OK seems a bit weird doesn't it. Can you not be sure that it's an ignition cut or a fuel thing ? Is it just lacking power or is it popping a lot out of the exhaust ?

What sort of dwell do you have set for your coil(s) ? (sorry, can't remember if you were wasted spark or not)

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Scoff

Oli, OK seems a bit weird doesn't it. Can you not be sure that it's an ignition cut or a fuel thing ? Is it just lacking power or is it popping a lot out of the exhaust ?

What sort of dwell do you have set for your coil(s) ? (sorry, can't remember if you were wasted spark or not)

---

Its a full on missfire, engine struggles for s second then clears, puffs of smoke out the exhaust, power drop off all the usual signs of a missfire.

I have no idea on dwell, wouldn't even know where to look but I can ask Dave.

Its a single ford zetec coil pack with wasted spark.

I've got a new fuel pressure reg as the old one was a little bit cheap for my liking, plus it was a pig to set up the pressure.

I've also borrowed a different efi manifold to test weather its my manifold or not, got abit of fabrication to get the air temp sensor relocated and a new throttle cable clamp but should be up and running in a few days

Right some progres, well I say progress more like doing right what should have been done right first time over a year ago :mad: The guy who made the parts for my EFI connversion has caused me nothing but grief and he will get whats coming to him and before anyone makes any comments along the lines 'I told you so' just feck off because that isn't very helpfull.

First off the fuel pressure regulator which I was told was a exspensive quality part that was going to go on his Lancer turned out to be a 22quid job off ebay
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/08...%20ups/FPR.jpg

Then he over tightened the -6 fuel hose fittings stripping half the threads causing a minor leak
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/08...20ups/FPR2.jpg

And then to finish it off he drilled and tapped 2 holes in the side for the mounting bracket, these holes went right into the body of the regulator and when I took it off petrol came out, this is the worst bit about it as the regulator was holding the fuel at 3bar of pressure at idle wnd that would rise the boost pressure increased
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/08...20ups/FPR3.jpg

Next thing he did wrong that I'm sorting now is the inlet manifold that he spent a year designing and making and told me his friend who worked for a wrc team flow tested it. I asked a mate Alex to have a quick look at it on the car and what he said made me take it off and get it checked for myself.
What the guy had to tell me was not good, he looked at it for about 30seconds before saying it was scrap metal and that there was no point flow testing it, I asked him to do it anyway and test a standard GTT inlet manifold, the results that came back were aweful, in his opinion I was better off going back to a carb than to continue with this manifold the the carb manifold although not great flowed better and more evenly across the cyclinders than the EFI one.

You can see from this pic the throttle boddy is not centrel the runners causing the outer 2 to get less air, infact no.4 hardly got any. You can also see that throttle body is not fitted directly to the plenum chamber but on a sort of tube causing the air going in to be aimed at the inner 2 cyclinders.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/08.../Manifold2.jpg

This is the view down the throttle body hole showing the poor welding that came through to the inside, unfortunaly this is the best bit but I can't get a clear pic of the worst bits.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/08.../Manifold3.jpg

This is the view just inside the head end of the runners, you can see the inside of the runner hasn't been blended into the flange, infact there is a ridge that causes a flow disruption.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/08...s/Manifold.jpg

To most the problems above would cause the end of a project or at the very least make them go back to a carb, but after getting 40+ mpg and over 200bhp with a dodgy manifold and regulator I figure its best to finish what I've started.

My first job the fuel pressure regulator, a quick call to a supplier and I have a FSE motorsport regulator with -6 fittings sitting on my doorstep, unfortunatly thier idea of red looks more pink to me :( but hey aslong as it works I'm happy.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/08...t/DSC01058.jpg

I made a decent bracket for that doesn't move around or require drilling holes in the regulator.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/08...t/DSC01057.jpg

This is the new manifold, it use the throttle body from a Lancia Delta Intergrale but needs a few mods to make everything fit right.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/08...t/DSC01059.jpg

Some more pics of the new setup.

First off the new throttle cable clamp, see Nigel very simple piece of angle ally with some holes in it.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/08...t%20out/TL.jpg

This bit has all the vacuum ports on it plus the two one way valves at the rear for the brake servo and breather system
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/08...20out/OWVP.jpg

The new manifold with my injectors and fuel rail fitted and a much better injector angle pointing almost straight at the back of the valves.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/08...t/Newinlet.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/08...20out/RONI.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/08...20out/SONI.jpg

And here you can see how it looks fitted, just gotta get Alex to chop off a pipe from the throttle body and balnk the hole and weld abit of ally on a boost pipe so I can tap it for the air temp sensor and then I can try it.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/08...%20out/IIP.jpg

Dont want to sound negative on the old manifold, but even with my limited manifold knowledge that looks a million times better. Great project mate and love your enthusiasm lol Glad you kept your chin up after all that crap.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Tony Walker

Dont want to sound negative on the old manifold, but even with my limited manifold knowledge that looks a million times better. Great project mate and love your enthusiasm lol Glad you kept your chin up after all that crap.

---

Yep, just wish I'd done all the work myself the first time round and I coulda saved loads of cash and time.

The manifold I'm using now is basically a modded GTT manifold so can't go to far wrong, would like to know who made it though

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Os8472

Yep, just wish I'd done all the work myself the first time round and I coulda saved loads of cash and time.

The manifold I'm using now is basically a modded GTT manifold so can't go to far wrong, would like to know who made it though

---

I forget his name, chap in Ireland, he's being doing all sorts of interesting castings from twin solex, to SU, to EFI. It'll come to me :ashamed:

https://www.rtoc.org/boards/member.php?u=349

that's the guy

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by tricky nicky

https://www.rtoc.org/boards/member.php?u=349

that's the guy

---

:agree:

Excellent, cheers Tricky Nicky

just read all through this thread brilliant project and iv got the biggest respect for you not giving up when hitting problems and actually making a 100 times better set up in process :agree: should hike the power up a bit as well

Looking v-good Oli - did it go on ok? Mine was a chore to get on due to poor machining round where the nuts tighten onto the studs. Could hardly get a spanner onto most of them.

Keep up the good work chappy.

Andy

Needed abit of a filing to a get a spanner on but that I was ok with that, it was getting it bolted to the head that was the Asre of a job, would be easy with the head off but I didn't want to waste a gasket just to save abit of skin :wasntme:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Os8472

Needed abit of a filing to a get a spanner on but that I was ok with that, it was getting it bolted to the head that was the Asre of a job, would be easy with the head off but I didn't want to waste a gasket just to save abit of skin :wasntme:

---

1-2-3------- skin

Thats you that is!

Are you going with the 60mm throttle body? Will this not be a bit snappy? I've no evidence as to whether this will be so, but it seems to be an issue amongst fellow tuners in the 1.4 engine. I had an adapter made up and am using a 40mm Mondeo jobby.

a good compromise between andy and os throttle bodies could be a 48mm or 52mm tb off a k series engine (52mm was on the zr160)

I had a 55mm mitsubishi starion body before and at first I thought it was snappy but after a couple of weeks it became like second nature, yeah there proberbly is a point at which openning the throttle any further makes no difference as the engine can't flow enough air but I'm not really bothered, the fact is it made over 200bhp, did 40+mpg, was smooth to drive in town, cruised along at 70mph on motorways without even blinking and did all that with some pretty serious problems, can't wait to see what it'll do now those problems have been sorted

Top staying power :agree: Looking forward to your next session on the road/rollers.

looking much much better :) the new manifold is one of michael's castings i'd say, sorry if I missed you saying you knew that already.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Scoff

looking much much better :) the new manifold is one of michael's castings i'd say, sorry if I missed you saying you knew that already.

---

Had been mentioned but thats ok.

Would like to know if anyone else has tried one yet and if so how well did it work, is there anything I need to keep an yeye for

Got a hold of Alex saturday morning, he nipped to his workshop and did the bits I needed even though he wasn't gunna be there, top bloke, cheers fella :thumbleft:

This is what he did, the throttle body with the pipe removed and a proper bung made
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/08...t/DSC01066.jpg

The new boost pipe with abit welded on the side so I can drill and tap it to take the air temp sensor
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/08...t/DSC01070.jpg

Gave the boost pipe a go with my ally polishing wheel and this is how everything now looks
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/08...t/DSC01073.jpg

With help from Handy Andy I got the 5 idlin smoothly on thursday night and the fuelin safe up to 7k at 7psi at full throttle, although its not a perfect map across the rev range at part throttle as I found out on the way to Pod on friday mornin as exactly at the right revs and throttle load for crusing at 70mph was abit lean but thanks to my latest ebay purchase a laptop costin 21quid I was able to adjust the map enough to make it safe.

I dont know everything about mapping but I know enough to map it safe using a base gtt ignition map I got from Scoff, thanks again Scoff:agree: top work on your 10.3

Right its been 2weeks since I got the manifold setup running and there have been no problems, this makes me concerned as my 5 runs its best right before it blows up spectacually lol.

Anyway I haven't been able to do much map tweaking as the battery in my newely aquired laptop lasts for about half a second :( so I've gotta buy a new one but I have been able to tweak it a little by using a inverter but that doesn't seem to like hard acceleration :D

home from FCS 2010 and fellin smug

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/08...010trophey.jpg

:agree: :D :agree:

Congrats, :)

well done oli, you deserve that buddy, keep up the good work my ole friend, was good to see you sunday.....:)

Thanks peeps.

jebus let me know how you get on with the wiring and altenator on ya cup car, can't be having that on a trallior all day and not blasting round a track

:agree::agree::agree::agree::agree::agree::)

well done!!!!

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Os8472

Far too much, mostl cus I did it myself and learnt what does and doesn't work by blowing it up half a dozen times lol

---

And............................................... .....................................

C'mon now Oli - it wasn't all you fault.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by TNT ANDY

And............................................... .....................................

C'mon now Oli - it wasn't all you fault.

---

Ok over the last year the problems with the car have been Nigels fault but before that 80% of the blow ups have been down to my lack of knowlodge, the other 20% would be down to the piss poor advice from BBPT and thE ****e parts they provided

Yay I've had some work to do on the car http://torque.myfreeforum.org/images...on_biggrin.gif http://torque.myfreeforum.org/images...on_biggrin.gif http://torque.myfreeforum.org/images...on_biggrin.gif

Failed its MOT on saturday so I've been sorting the repairs, both bottom ball joints were shot and the rear brake pipes have been kinked where the torsion bar hit the chassis legs during a spirited launch over a hump back bridge lol

All done now, just gotta get it retested on saturday http://torque.myfreeforum.org/images...on_biggrin.gif

lol spirited?? u must of been aiming for the heavens.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Tony Walker

lol spirited?? u must of been aiming for the heavens.

---

Maybe a little ;)

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Os8472

Maybe a little ;)

---

:dearme:

Its been awhile since I last posted about any problems with the 5, because its been running sweat as:D............................. until last week :(


First off the heater matrix I fitter 2 years ago shat itself into the passenger foot well so thats by passed for now.

There's a knock coming from the passenger side front wheel, I think its wheel bearing, again.

The gearbox is getting worse and its getting harder and harder to select a gear.

The part throttle problem hasn't got any worse but it is annoying me so that needs sorting.

And I'm fed up with having a silly hard ride just so the car will handle.

The oil leak last year did more damage than I thought as the bottom end is just starting to make itself heard.


So this is my plan for christmas time

Engine out

Build up spare block with balanced crank, new bearings, new rings, forged pistons and the 215mm clutch conversion.

Smaller throttle body to reduce the snappyness low down, I think 60mm is just to big on an engine that factory had a 25mm, I recon a 45mm will be a good compramise between power and driveability.

New gearbox, a GTT box would be nice but I'm looking into early laguna diesel boxes for the longer 4th and 5th gears.

Strip, straighten, smooth and repaint engine bay.

Clio 16v wide track conversion to give 35mm extra width and a thicker anti roll bar.

Longer front springs to raise the front 15 maybe 20mm so the coilovers can be softened abit.

Raise the rear torsion bar 25mm to give a more factory suspension geometry.

New front tyres as I can't drive round on R888's all the time.

Dashboard out to replace heater matrix and find out why the side air vents don't do anyhing anymore.

Not alot but hey I need somit to do on the cold winter nights:(

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Os8472

Its been awhile since I last posted about any problems with the 5, because its been running sweat as:D............................. until last week :(


First off the heater matrix I fitter 2 years ago shat itself into the passenger foot well so thats by passed for now.

There's a knock coming from the passenger side front wheel, I think its wheel bearing, again.

The gearbox is getting worse and its getting harder and harder to select a gear.

The part throttle problem hasn't got any worse but it is annoying me so that needs sorting.

And I'm fed up with having a silly hard ride just so the car will handle.

The oil leak last year did more damage than I thought as the bottom end is just starting to make itself heard.


So this is my plan for christmas time

Engine out

Build up spare block with balanced crank, new bearings, new rings, forged pistons and the 215mm clutch conversion.

Smaller throttle body to reduce the snappyness low down, I think 60mm is just to big on an engine that factory had a 25mm, I recon a 45mm will be a good compramise between power and driveability.

New gearbox, a GTT box would be nice but I'm looking into early laguna diesel boxes for the longer 4th and 5th gears.

Strip, straighten, smooth and repaint engine bay.

Clio 16v wide track conversion to give 35mm extra width and a thicker anti roll bar.

Longer front springs to raise the front 15 maybe 20mm so the coilovers can be softened abit.

Raise the rear torsion bar 25mm to give a more factory suspension geometry.

New front tyres as I can't drive round on R888's all the time.

Dashboard out to replace heater matrix and find out why the side air vents don't do anyhing anymore.

Not alot but hey I need somit to do on the cold winter nights:(

---

Sounds like a plan. And final mapping? you can't keep using the 'it hasn't been fully mapped' excuse when things don't go as well as expected.

I know but hopefully this time things will go better, baring any major problems I've covered everything.

With any luck it'll be ready for mapping in january

been trying to find a gearbox for the 5 but haven't found one yet and fter going out in a mates astra vxr i've realised his car with only minor mods is as fast as mine with major mods and he can thrash his all day long without worry where as mine wouldn't last.

I'm tinking I may go down a different route in the new year but for now I have to do something about the oil leak and knackered gearbox so I will pull the engine out over chrismas just to sort these bits till I decided exactly what I'm going to do long term

there were some nice oil puddles outside mine :D

Did you find out the code for the box you're thinking of?

There will allways be someone faster, stick with the car you love :D, i drive different cars everyday, modern cars can and are very quick but have no where near the character.

oh yeah, what's controlling your boost, and how is it all connected?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Andrew Cooke

there were some nice oil puddles outside mine :D

Did you find out the code for the box you're thinking of?

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Sorry about that:scared:

Nope, gotta ask Handy Andy, he's the man who knows

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Tony Walker

There will allways be someone faster, stick with the car you love :D, i drive different cars everyday, modern cars can and are very quick but have no where near the character.

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True but I can't let a 5 get beaten by a vauxhall, I could spend loads more on a C1J and get it up to 260bhp maybe 280bhp and he wouldn't stand a chance but it'd keep dying

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Andrew Cooke

oh yeah, what's controlling your boost, and how is it all connected?

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I have the same solinoid as you controlled by the ecu to work the external gate

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Os8472

True but I can't let a 5 get beaten by a vauxhall, I could spend loads more on a C1J and get it up to 260bhp maybe 280bhp and he wouldn't stand a chance but it'd keep dying

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Just stick a different engine in there,I'm sure your setup would pay for a big chunk of the conversion.think my set up just about payed for mine,except mapping/wiring

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Os8472

I have the same solinoid as you controlled by the ecu to work the external gate

---

ahhh, that will make the throttle snappy. If the ECU doesn't have throttle dependant boost try a separate boost controller with the sense and solenoid pipes on the intercooler side of the throttle. What happens is the ECU will be trying to hold the boost in the plenum, so the throttle won't do what it's supposed to do.

To be honest, even if the ECU has throttle dependant boost I'd still try a separate boost controller.

Short term try connecting the wategate up conventionally (with the pipe on the intercooler side of the throttle), maybe with a bleed valve, it won't spool as early as with a boost controller, but you'll see if it helps the throttle sensitivity.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Andrew Cooke

ahhh, that will make the throttle snappy. If the ECU doesn't have throttle dependant boost try a separate boost controller with the sense and solenoid pipes on the intercooler side of the throttle. What happens is the ECU will be trying to hold the boost in the plenum, so the throttle won't do what it's supposed to do.

To be honest, even if the ECU has throttle dependant boost I'd still try a separate boost controller.

Short term try connecting the wategate up conventionally (with the pipe on the intercooler side of the throttle), maybe with a bleed valve, it won't spool as early as with a boost controller, but you'll see if it helps the throttle sensitivity.

---

I had the wastegate hooked up with a bleed valve before I hooked up the solinoid when I first fitted the current manifold, was about the same, I think the 60mm body is just too big, I good session in a scrap yard should turn up somit thats 45mm, I recon that'd be spot on

well the turbo toaster has gone and done it!!!:scared:
a f7r hybrid is soon to be powering his white phase 1:D
well i say soon , more like about march/april time next year:laugh:
just got to sort out pisons/ gearbox and log /tubby style manifold to bring the turbo around the side of cylinder head:)

sorry oswald if i spoilt your little secret;)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by HAndy

well the turbo toaster has gone and done it!!!:scared:
a f7r hybrid is soon to be powering his white phase 1:D
well i say soon , more like about march/april time next year:laugh:
just got to sort out pisons/ gearbox and log /tubby style manifold to bring the turbo around the side of cylinder head:)

sorry oswald if i spoilt your little secret;)

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nah thats ok fella but this won't be happening that soon, end of next year more like, I want to get 1 last season in with the C1J now the efi is done I need to see what it can do before I go F7P

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Os8472

nah thats ok fella but this won't be happening that soon, end of next year more like, I want to get 1 last season in with the C1J now the efi is done I need to see what it can do before I go F7P

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~~~~BANG!!!!~~~~:laugh::laugh:

I've had the 5 off the road for 3 weeks now but haven't done anything to it until today, with abit of help from Andy (more like standing around smoking fags and telling me to just drop the F7r in now) the engine is out and on a stand so I can't find and fix the oil leak, replace the clutch bearing, sort out the starter wiring thats got abit crispy and clean the bay of all the oil thats leaked.

Oh joy the next few weeks are gunna be messy:sad2:

:p a days work to fix and refit , pull your finger out (while i watch and smoke );):laugh:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by HAndy

:p a days work to fix and refit , pull your finger out (while i watch and smoke );):laugh:

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Well I can't complain too much, you did pay for the MaccyD's.......................... wait a sec yes I can cus I gave you a fiver towards it :D

Can you search for most viewed threads? This has nearly hit 10k

Yikes its been a while since I was on here and alot has happened.

First off over christmas I took out the C1J to sort an oil leak and replace the clutch bearing and while its was out I dummy fitted the F7 engine thats going to replace it later this year, it fitted just fine and I got on with refitting the C1J

and thats where everything went wrong:(

I've pulled apart that engine god knows how many times, I can practically put it together blind fold but the last few weeks things didnt go well, it took me a week to refit the starter and thats with the car up on axle stands, turbo off and no driveshafts :(

After that I find 1 of the clio 16v shafts I'm fitting has a CV boot held on with plastic cable ties:(

And then the thread on the gearbox filler hole strips out when I fit the plug:cry:

I broke the bolts that hold the downpipe to the rest of the system.

I lost 1 of the breather hoses.

1 of the studs in the back of the turbo sheared off.

And yet more of the wiring loom proved to be poorly made.

The can of petrol and box of matches insurance job started looking very tempting

:cool2::cool2: just hurry up and get saving for the f7 engine transplant , oh ive got big booossttt on its way:cooter:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by HAndy

:cool2::cool2: just hurry up and get saving for the f7 engine transplant , oh ive got big booossttt on its way:cooter:

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Told ya Andy, i'm building up a stash of parts as we speak

On sunday MarkyB kindly opened his workshop so we could replace meater matrix.

Annoyingly this'll be the second time I've done it but this time went really well and the old matrix was disposed of in the proper manor, namely with a lump hammer.

Cheers for the assist there MrB, much appricated, as was the centre consol you donated, only problem it made my switch panel redundent and the switches didn't suit the new factoryesq look so I went on fleabay and ordered a pair of rocker switchs with built in LED's, they turned up today and I got busy with my dremil and fitted them to the blank the goes between the passenger window switch and the central locking switch.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/08...7022011647.jpg

Nice work mate good to see are your window switches connected and wired up now only ask as I am having a few probs putting mine on toggle switches

Quote:

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Originally Posted by philr5t

Nice work mate good to see are your window switches connected and wired up now only ask as I am having a few probs putting mine on toggle switches

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I never disconnected the window switches, just made a new ally panel for them to sit in but never had room for the central locking switch.

What sorta problems you having?

Well the 5 has been up and running for 2 weeks now and apart from a dodgy sounding gearbox all seems well.

While the engine was out i replaced the throttle body to manifold gasket with gasket paste and she now idles alot smoother and slower, she's turning over at 600rpm, me thinks the was a air leak and with it now sorted i need to get the laptop out and tweak the idle settings aswell as set up the new boost soilnoid and then its time to give her some death :)

Good work Olski, you'll after get It properly mapped now.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by TNT ANDY

Good work Olski, you'll after get It properly mapped now.

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No point fella, the c1j won't be in there much longer, the cash is better spent on it's replacement

c1j = mission aborted :-(

s'pose it did cost a fortune in mapping ;-P

Quote:

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Originally Posted by markey b

c1j = mission aborted :-(

s'pose it did cost a fortune in mapping ;-P

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Wasn't that much but defo more than I'd planned on, shame really, I would've liked to have seen what it could do but I just can't justify spending anymore money on it.

Not when I can get so much more power more easly from an F7 with none of the reliability issues

then markey shouldnt be laughing at ya as much lol:burnrubber:
as long as it gana have a turbo?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by tom t

then markey shouldnt be laughing at ya as much lol:burnrubber:
as long as it gana have a turbo?

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Its always gunna have a turbo :D

Ah c0ck it, typical french, I knew it was going to well, less than 2 weeks on the road and she's spat her dummy out and split a coolant pipe at 120mph (on the track officer:scared:)

took all of half an hour to remove the cheap **** chinese coolant hose and replace it with a sfs job, all good and running again.

Spent the best part of last saturday at Mr Butterbeans unit whipping the gearbox and a few other choice parts of his black 5 he's breaking (cheers for those bits fella).
I swapped out the passenger side window motor to find it was slower than mine so mine went back in, i must of sacred it as its working perfectly now. Swapped out the drivers door lock because doesn't always unlock to find it now unlocks but doesn't lock even on the key, so thats me getting out the passenge side for now then.

Oh well at least the collection of f7r bits is going well

Just a few snaps of the F7R progress

some of the bits, including, head set, bottom end set, new dipstick tube, water pump and various new bolts
https://www.rtoc.org/boards/picture.p...ictureid=15193

An F7P Cam cover that was totally ****ed when i got it now nice and smooth and red with a home made carbon plug cover
https://www.rtoc.org/boards/picture.p...ictureid=15194

The engine dummy fitted with the turbo to the side but it won't be going there now
https://www.rtoc.org/boards/picture.p...ictureid=15195

:cooter::cooter: loving the cam
cover....... now get buying the rest,the french toast show is not that far away :D

Quote:

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Originally Posted by HAndy

:cooter::cooter: loving the cam
cover....... now get buying the rest,the french toast show is not that far away :D

---

Yeah I know, all in good time, block, crank and flywheel have to go away first, then its pistons and rods on order and building can comence :D

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Os8472

Yeah I know, all in good time, block, crank and flywheel have to go away first, then its pistons and rods on order and building can comence :D

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Chop Chop Oli - want to get amongst it with you on the track, just to see how an EFI C1J stacks up against the FRFFFFRRRFRFRFRFRF.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by TNT ANDY

Chop Chop Oli - want to get amongst it with you on the track, just to see how an EFI C1J stacks up against the FRFFFFRRRFRFRFRFRF.

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Should be interesting, in the corners you should have the advantage due to the extra weight of the f7r over the c1j but because i'm using a relatively small turbo coming out of the corners i'll rain you back in and pass you on the straights, that is if you don't use a million psi of boost :)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Os8472

that is if you don't use a million psi of boost :)

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............or have a 'thermal incident' :cooter:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by markey b

............or have a 'thermal incident' :cooter:

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My thoughs exactly.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by markey b

............or have a 'thermal incident' :cooter:

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Got that covered, the rad i'm gunna use is shorter in height than the gtt item so it fits under the inlet but its alor wider, infact its core is bigger overall than the original megane rad, my oil cooler will sort the oil temp side of things and as for boost, charge cooler ftw baby :)

i was referring to mr stott's snetty exploits... funny because i had a similar incident at the same place :laugh:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by markey b

i was referring to mr stott's snetty exploits... funny because i had a similar incident at the same place :laugh:

---

Nah it'll be fine, he'll notice a massive drop in engine bay temps and coolant temps, so baring any major hiccups it'll be spot on

just thru using EFI?! cooler temps?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by markey b

just thru using EFI?! cooler temps?

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Yep, if anything mine runs too cold, i'm gunna have to cover half the rad just to keep it at the right temps.

You can reduce charge tempsusing efi too, just map it to inject a small amount of fuel a milliesecond before the normal injection time and it'll have an effect :)

Some minor progress

I bought a clio valver fuel rail a while back and started to convert it to suit my new engine but it went abit wrong
https://www.rtoc.org/boards/picture.p...ictureid=15245

My inital plan was to have the fuel lines connecting at each end so I blanked off the OE fuel reg and tapped a hole to take a -6 fitting
https://www.rtoc.org/boards/picture.p...ictureid=15246

And tried to tap the other end but the thread didn't take and I tried tapping out a bigger thread but that didn't work either
https://www.rtoc.org/boards/picture.p...ictureid=15247

So I changed my plan and ordered a pair of weld on -6 fittings
https://www.rtoc.org/boards/picture.p...ictureid=15244

And got busy with the file and made the OE fuel in and out pipes fit inside the new fittings, all they'll need is abit of tig welding and all is good
https://www.rtoc.org/boards/picture.p...ictureid=15248
https://www.rtoc.org/boards/picture.p...ictureid=15249

While the fittings are getting welded I'll get the chap to weld up the 2 ends of the rail and then I'll clean all the old paint off, prep it and repaint it

as much as u slate nige, his welding is awesome, and cheap too!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by markey b

as much as u slate nige, his welding is awesome, and cheap too!

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Tell that to Ross and see what he says

I've never had an issue and I've prob had more individual items done than anyone else lol

Quote:

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Originally Posted by markey b

I've never had an issue and I've prob had more individual items done than anyone else lol

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Well you were the lucky one cus it seems he's pissed alot of people off.

Anyway had enough talking about him.

More progress, i've ordered all the fuel fittings i need to relocate the fuel pressure regulator and link up with the fuel rail on the newengine, hopefully they'll turn up by friday.

Spoken to an engineering firm on the works i need doing to the block, crank and flywheel, hopefully drop those off friday and as soon as there done i can order the pistons and rods and begin to start putting the basic bottom end together :)

fuel rail is withthe welder so hopefully that'll be all done soon so i can clean it up and give it a lick of paint.

The fuel fittings i order sunday where delivered yesterday morning but i wasn't there to sign for them so i picked them up this morning, nice a cheap price and look great, will take some pics later

If you don't mind me asking,where did you get your fittings from?as I'm after some -10 fittings at a reasonable price

oh yeah,chop chop get some pics up :-)

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by tubby5

If you don't mind me asking,where did you get your fittings from?as I'm after some -10 fittings at a reasonable price

oh yeah,chop chop get some pics up :-)

---

Go on fleabay look for a seller called torque_uk

This is what I ordered, enough fuel line to extended my existing lines plus the ends and 2 female to female adaptors

https://www.rtoc.org/boards/picture.p...ictureid=15268

Right been to the machine shop and dropped off my crank, flywheel and block and while I was there I got them to check the mating face of the head for straightness and they said it was perfect and just needs a going over with some carb cleaner and some rag, so that's me busy tomorrow :)

the c1j knows its time is coming to end, so its now playing up like f**k to try and force me to spend money on it, first off it threw itsaux belt for the first time friday night, last night it kept cutting out at 60mph and this morning the fuel pump doesn't want to work :( bloody female cars

More progress

First off after only 2 days at the machine shop I got the call that my block, crank and flywheel were ready for collection:eek: bloomin ek guys that was quick gotta pick them up monday after work.

Pistons, rings, rods, gudgions and studs all on order, hopefully be here tuesday.

Fuel is back from welding, will put some pics up once I've pressure tested it and painted it.

Been cleaning up and painting other bits ready, starting with the gearbox mount, altinator mount and two aux belt pulleys.

Before
https://www.rtoc.org/boards/picture.p...ictureid=15496
https://www.rtoc.org/boards/picture.p...ictureid=15492
https://www.rtoc.org/boards/picture.p...ictureid=15494
https://www.rtoc.org/boards/picture.p...ictureid=15493

Primered
https://www.rtoc.org/boards/picture.p...ictureid=15491
https://www.rtoc.org/boards/picture.p...ictureid=15497

First coat of black
https://www.rtoc.org/boards/picture.p...ictureid=15495

The pulleys, altenator bracket and gearbox mount have had several more coats of black and now look alot better
https://www.rtoc.org/boards/picture.p...ictureid=15520
https://www.rtoc.org/boards/picture.p...ictureid=15519
https://www.rtoc.org/boards/picture.p...ictureid=15518
https://www.rtoc.org/boards/picture.p...ictureid=15517

Other good news, I got a chance to get over to the machine shop after work and pick up my block, crank and flywheel, well I say block, crank and flywheel, what I mean is I'll pick up the block and crank and will have to come back for the flywheel later in the week as some twit forgot to write done on the job sheet that the flywheel needed refacing:sad2:
https://www.rtoc.org/boards/picture.p...ictureid=15512
https://www.rtoc.org/boards/picture.p...ictureid=15511

Ohwell they were able to supply new crank and conrod bearings though
https://www.rtoc.org/boards/picture.p...ictureid=15521

Now all I have to do is figure out where to drill the oil return for the turbo and I can get on with building up the engine, oh and before anyone pipes up and says use the search function, I already have and found that my block for some reason doesn't have the lump at the bottom that needs drilling out :sad2: I'm cursed with this engine before I've even started.

This is the back of the block dummyed up with a gearbox, driveshaft, starter and turbo in place, where the feck am I supposed to drill then?:scratch:
https://www.rtoc.org/boards/picture.p...ictureid=15513

Thats where your supposed to but as you can see mine doesn't have the lump:(
https://www.rtoc.org/boards/picture.p...ictureid=15522

Right been busy again, with the block back from the machine shop, I cleaned it, tapped the oil return for the turbo and painted it
https://www.rtoc.org/boards/picture.p...ictureid=15620
Also got the flywheel back from the machine shop with a new smooth face to it
https://www.rtoc.org/boards/picture.p...ictureid=15619

The forged pistons and H-pattern rods finally turned up a week late but look feckin awesome
https://www.rtoc.org/boards/picture.p...ictureid=15604

Mid way through assembly of pistons and rods
https://www.rtoc.org/boards/picture.p...ictureid=15605

And with Handy doing most the work (damn I know how to deligate lol) pistons fitted
https://www.rtoc.org/boards/picture.p...ictureid=15606

Also got a chance to pressure test the fuel rail and paint it and got some other bits painted to
https://www.rtoc.org/boards/picture.p...ictureid=15622
https://www.rtoc.org/boards/picture.p...ictureid=15623
https://www.rtoc.org/boards/picture.p...ictureid=15621

getting there oli :agree:

not sure if you've covered it already but just wondering if you'd need to get the botttom end balanced with the forged components?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by TNT Tricky Nicky

getting there oli :agree:

not sure if you've covered it already but just wondering if you'd need to get the botttom end balanced with the forged components?

---

Interesting question, when I dropped off the block and crank they asked If I wanted the pistons and rods balanced, I said I can't order them till I know the bore size, they said ok as long as they have no more than a few grams difference in weight they should be ok, I said they were wossiner pistons, they said should be perfect then and not to worry

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Os8472

Interesting question, when I dropped off the block and crank they asked If I wanted the pistons and rods balanced, I said I can't order them till I know the bore size, they said ok as long as they have no more than a few grams difference in weight they should be ok, I said they were wossiner pistons, they said should be perfect then and not to worry

---

Best check to be sure at this stage!

Looking good BTW, but why did you paint your fuel rail threads?

who did the machining? randalls?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by markey b

who did the machining? randalls?

---

Hell no, the last thing they did for me was loose my spare gtt flywheel I took in to get machined for a 215mm clutch, I went to Scholar engines

progress on the new engine kinda stalled after funds ran out but now cash flow has come good and parts are on there way, first off JP provided me with an MLS head gasket and has a 4 paddle 215mm clutch which should do the job nicely.

I'm heading to ktec with a mate saturday so he can pick up his boot brace for his megane and i'll get a cambelt kit while i'm there.

I've finished cleaning up and checking over the oil pump, thought i would have to get a refirb kit but it was mint so thats ready to go on and the sump can go on shortly after, then its on withcleaning up and prepping the head.

Finally found the time to fit the oil pump and seal the sump on, bottom end finished :)

Dummied up the engine withe head, manifolds and an old turbo, looks great but the exhaust still worries me, really not sure if it'll clear the brake master cyclinder :(

Next job is to clean up the head, fit it and fit the cambelt.

Quick shout but has anyone got a spare 215mm clutch cover plate they wanna sell cheap?

i might infact have a 215 volvo clutch cover in my mums garage, brand new. ill look on sat if you can hold out that long?