Finally got my mits on a 5 again

Well after a 12 year dry spell of not owning a GTT I got back in one today, took it for a test drive, and bought it.:D it's been stored for 4 years, and started first time every time (even on the old fuel that was in it), no horrible noises, or smoke. But it does need a clutch. It made it home through a 100mile trip and drove really well.

It's going to be a bit of a slow project, as I plan to have this as my daily for now. So any work on it will be, easy fixes etc...

The to do list.

Replace clutch - anything else worth doing at same time? Cable?release bearing?
Fix speedo as it doesn't work - is it mechanical or electrical driven?
Fix rear right indicator as it doesn't work
Full service, engine oil, gearbox, oil, brake fluid, coolant before winter
Replace indicator lenses, and fog lights with original colour
Fit bumper strips
Maybe replace front springs as it seems to sit really high at the front?


Anyway pics...

http://i59.tinypic.com/28ciqn9.jpg

http://i62.tinypic.com/rmnvr9.jpg

http://i59.tinypic.com/2rqd2kx.jpg

Looks a nice tidy car :) welcome back to R5 ownership. It's a lovely base to start with and get your hands dirty fixing little bits and bobs ;)

Front and rear bumper strips, now there's a small mortgage on their own. Looks like a nice one. OE do look stupidly high at the front but it might be worth checking to see if you have campus springs under there.

Yeah ive seen the price of them strips! :scared: It needs a bit of bodywork doing, most of which is covered up by the bumpers etc, so hopefully im going to avoid a respray for the time being.

Ive just had another good look over it this evening, and plenty of little bits and bobs that need doing. Rear door cards look a bit tatty, and rear quarter seals need replacing. Windows slow on operation, is guess they just need greasing on the runner mechanism?

It suits me fine though, something that I can tinker with but not something that I'd be worried to use daily because its immaculate.

I've seen a few others about the same height. From what I've been told, I have no reason to believe its been messed with at all, so they are hopefully stock GTT ones. Any way of telling what they are?

welcome back to the 5 world! :)

a popular way of changing the clutch is engine out, so while its out, service the engine, fresh fluids etc, yeh fit a clutch kit, not just the plate. you could opt for a soft clutch pedal conversion too while your in there if that's your thing :) if its been stood for 4 years id change the clutch cable as they are a common weakness, use a genuine Renault cable only.

lekky windows are usually slow, you can try grease the mech/rubbers, but the motor could also be tired.

rear lamp fault could be a bad earth, wiring fault, bulb or circuit board fault in the cluster, check for water ingress and any other obvious signs

rear doorcards can be repaired using spray glue :)

does look a little high, might be worth comparing it against another local gt if you can

speedo is a common fault you can try various things, new sensor ( comes in two sections) or it could be the mech in the clocks

welcome to the club :agree:

Hi, Looks good :) To help answer a few of your questions.

With regards replacing the clutch I would definitely be doing the release bearing as well. All the kits I have had come with that anyway. It's also worth factoring in your future plans and if you intend to run more power in the future fit an uprated clutch now. Personally I would also replace the cable as well, but use a genuine Renault one. GT Turbo Spares can help you out with all the bits. It is also worth checking the quadrant on the clutch pedal. Plenty of threads about that on here and worth doing before you replace the clutch as you never know the clutch may be OK but simply not adjusting the cable correctly at the pedal. I had that years ago and it was an expensive mistake getting a new clutch fitted so worth taking the time to check.

Speedo is electrical. There is a black connector on the n/s inner wing near to where the air filter is if its still running the OE setup. Iirc the cable is grey. Check the contacts at the connector first as it may be that simple.

Yellow fogs I believe are no longer available. Some people have gone for these which seem to be good, as is the price :)

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...m=301270473604

When you do the gearbox oil make sure you use the correct stuff. Again plenty of threads on here about that as well.

Good luck :agree:

Thanks for the advice, I'll have good search about. I've already been advised to fit the green box Valeo, which seems to be a Volvo clutch. If it is then its probably the same as I had fitted in my old GTT and didn't feel too bad on the foot.

I'll have a good look at other causes, i can definitely feel the car moving with my foot on the clutch and the biting point is right on the floor.

Is there a way to test if the speedo sensor is working? Does it work by giving a square wave pulsed signal like modern VR sensors?

Should the badge on the back have a white background?

nice car you got there:). good luck getting the issues sorted. everything is easily sorted, enjoy the boosting:agree:

I started having a look into the clutch today, the more I thought about it the more the cable adjustment made sense. It never slipped just didn't disengage the box fully...anyway this is what I found on the box end...I can't seem to find these wonderfully engineered components on the renault parts list? :D

http://i62.tinypic.com/9lg4cp.jpg

http://i62.tinypic.com/2qx3oli.jpg

H plate, white, non sun roof, onto a winner already mate. :cool:

Lovely clutch mod that. :laugh:

Yep white and non sunroof were the top of my list, it's not fun getting dripped on in the winter. :)

Right, I've adjusted the ratchet mech as far as it would go, and without the "custom spacers" it was better than before, I then put the "custom spacer" back in and it's only dragging ever so slightly. Obviously it's still not right, so does this mean its the wrong length cable? The clutch peal has the white ratchet mech on it.

first of all, if you havent already, have a read through the boards on adjusting the quadrant, you never know you may have missed a trick and there is a wealth of posts on the subject. If that's all good then as you were thinking you were going to have to replace the clutch anyway I would try a new cable and also make sure its routed correctly. Get one from GT Turbo Spares or CGB so you know 100% its the right cable for a GT Turbo. I seem to recall that it has been mentioned in the past there were a couple of different cable lengths. It may well be a cheap fix, if not you have a new cable for when/if you replace the clutch.

This thread might help - https://www.rtoc.org/boards/showthread.php?t=4800

I am trying to cast my mind back. I had the same sort of problem about 15 years ago. Clutch cable snapped so I got a new one from Renault. Biting point was then in the carpet so pretty much undriveable. Put some spacers on the cable at the clutch fork end just like yours and that made it a bit better and brought the biting point up a bit. Took the car into the main dealers who diagnosed a new clutch was needed. Got the car back after the clutch change and it was OK. However in hindsight the old clutch was probably fine. I also ended up changing the clutch pedal and quadrant etc but cant for the life of me remember if it was related to this issue.

Good to see you bought it matty and are getting stuck in, good news she did a long run all good apart from the clutch. Good luck with the resto she's a nice original car that in the best colour:)

Yep had a good read through, I saw one thread that did mention a difference in cable length between the clutch pedal with the black ratchet and white one (from what I understood anyway). The way I adjusted it up was, I unhooked it at the clutch arm, then kind of squeezed the two sections of the quadrant together, so the teeth were engaging at the highest point, and got the Mrs to pull the clutch cable tight and hook it over the arm, whilst I held the quadrant in place. The cable doesn't seem to clipped in place anywhere, could that cause an issue? I had a good search through, and this was the method written up on the articles page.

The quadrant all looks to be in good condition, I was thinking that maybe the teeth were slipping. How tight should the cable be once adjusted, I seem to be easily able to pull it an inch or so past the point where it clips into the clutch arm?

The cable does look quite new, so I'm wondering whether the fitting of the cable and it not working may of been the final straw of why it was taken off the road.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by dickiegtt

Good to see you bought it matty and are getting stuck in, good news she did a long run all good apart from the clutch. Good luck with the resto she's a nice original car that in the best colour:)

---

Yep getting stuck in, I've got 3 weeks to try and get it on the road! :p

I decided to pull the gutter strips off to clean the mould out from behind. It didn't look too bad underneath, but there is a bit of surface rust where the panels join.

Indicator now works, it was just a dirty contact on the bulb. Has anyone got a rear light wing nut going spare? Mine had a nyloc nut holding it on, and inevitably rusted on and had to be drilled and split off. :sad2:

http://i61.tinypic.com/2cna5v9.jpg

http://i57.tinypic.com/5pri85.jpg

After a good clean up. I'll treat the rust soon, as soon as I get the other bits done.

http://i60.tinypic.com/2z4x1fo.jpg

I also gave the gutter trim a good clean, and it came up well.

http://i58.tinypic.com/2a0i64n.jpg

The cable should be clipped in place on the bulkhead and the inner wing from what I recall. Someone else will confirm as its years since I changed one. I have read in the past about incorrectly routed cables causing issues so worth checking.

If the ratchet is suspect you can get replacements. I have a Renault kit which comes with the pedal arm as well which seems a bit overkill really. If they are still available I expect they must be north of £50 now. Not tried these but could be worth a go if a new quadrant is needed.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RENAULT-5-...item3f37f3bd8c

I've taken the air box out now to give it a clean up, and I can now see where the cable is routed. Your right there are clips on the inner wing, so I've clipped it back in now. I've got a list of bits I need from GT turbo spares, so I'll have a chat and get a new clutch cable. Is there a part number stamped on the cable any where at all? Is saw that quadrant, I may get one just to rule out that.

I spent this evening cleaning up the front end, as there was a bit of home made metal flake starting to go rusty.

http://i62.tinypic.com/23upuz8.jpg

http://i58.tinypic.com/358b18x.jpg

It's cleaned up nicely, as has the grill.

http://i58.tinypic.com/2emoj03.jpg

A couple of questions, while I wait for my Haynes manual to arrive. Does anyone know where this wire should go?

http://i58.tinypic.com/2j2dti1.jpg

What is this part? And where does it usually sit? (Part with 2 blue spade connectors) I've looked for pictures, but I can't seem to find it a picture of where it should be in the engine bay.

http://i62.tinypic.com/1zlvcwz.jpg

Could be wrong but that looks like the speedo cable ?. If it is that explains the speedo problem then :)

Second one is the anti-perc fan sensor. Normally fits into the turbo heatshield which you dont have fitted.

I'd say that the cut wire looks more like the brake pad wear sensor wire !?

Great base for a project mate. Speedo cable is a beige colour, goes into a black 3 pin connector near passenger side suspension turret, goes into bulk head down behind carb with the small hose for boost gauge in same grommet. Could be the cable, clocks, 3 pin connector or pickup in the gearbox up near where exhaust comes down. ;) :agree:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by markg

Could be wrong but that looks like the speedo cable ?. If it is that explains the speedo problem then :)

Second one is the anti-perc fan sensor. Normally fits into the turbo heatshield which you dont have fitted.

---

That would explain the lack of speedo. It runs in the same conduit as the boost sensor wires.

I had a good look for the wire, I think someone said it was grey and ran down the left hand side of engine bay?

Ah yeah that's rings a bell about the anti percent fan sensor now. Well the anti percent isn't working, so it could well be this, as its just floating about in the engine bay. I guess it's just a thermal switch? If I join the wires together would this switch the fan on, just to test if its a faulty switch, or just the fact it's not seeing enough heat.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Mr Raider

Great base for a project mate. Speedo cable is a beige colour, goes into a black 3 pin connector near passenger side suspension turret, goes into bulk head down behind carb with the small hose for boost gauge in same grommet. Could be the cable, clocks, 3 pin connector or pickup in the gearbox up near where exhaust comes down. ;) :agree:

---

Thanks, it's quite good sorting out all of these little problems, it's getting me familiar with everything, but easy and cheap to sort too. Everything seems to be there on the car, it's just had the usual half arse repairs done over the years, that need sorting. I found some welding that needs doing in the boot today, so I'll probably have the rear bumper off to have a good look around.

That wire is a beige colour. :) great i'll chase it though and see what's what. hopefully that may well solve the speedo not working.

I'm pretty sure your picture is of the brake wear indicator wire!

Speedo cable is grey and comes out of the bulk head right of the servo in a rubber bung that also has the boost gauge pipe, runs across the bulk head to behind the airfilter box where it has a round 3 pin connector, this then goes to the gearbox, in to an L shaped black metal casing then in to the back of the gearbox. That's from memory tho so may be a little bit out but http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/161340014676 may give you a better idea.

Steve

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Steven Leece

I'm pretty sure your picture is of the brake wear indicator wire!

Speedo cable is grey and comes out of the bulk head right of the servo in a rubber bung that also has the boost gauge pipe, runs across the bulk head to behind the airfilter box where it has a round 3 pin connector, this then goes to the gearbox, in to an L shaped black metal casing then in to the back of the gearbox. That's from memory tho so may be a little bit out but http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/161340014676 may give you a better idea.

Steve

---

Thanks Steve, I'll have another look tomorrow. Thanks for the pic that gives me a better idea of what I am looking for. :)

Not a problem

The 5 looks nice and original, and pretty complete which is good! Good luck with the restoration!! Looking forward to following your thread!

Steve

100% the brake pad wear wire. :agree:

Just noticed our 5's must be brothers, my reg is H154 TGO! :laugh:

Yep, that thing with the two blue spade connectors is the turbo heat shield sensor that the anti-perc fan uses (and yes it's just a thermal switch). Since you have no heat shield (and most don't), it has nowhere to mount to, so it just hangs about.

You have three choices with it. Either remove it (a lot of people just remove the entire perc-fan and gubbins), fit a heat shield (and fit the sensor to it), or tie-wrap the sensor in a position that is close to the turbo.

I'd probably go with the first option but keep all the parts.

Looks like a great motor mate, just an observation but the metal contamination on the front might re appear regularly depending what you have treated it with. A friend had a white 5 and it was a real problem, he would clean and polish it, and a few weeks later it would come back.

There is an awesome product called Iron X. It dissolves the metal particles in the paint (normally caused by brake pads) but can be caused by fall out if the car is parked anywhere industrial (foundries etc)

Highly recomend the stuff. You spray it on, leave it 5 mins, it breaks down the particles and turns a purple colour, then you just rinse / wipe it off.

Treated my mates car and its never come back.

Ahhh Iron x, THE worst smelling thing on the planet. Fact.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Goobie

100% the brake pad wear wire. :agree:

Just noticed our 5's must be brothers, my reg is H154 TGO! :laugh:

---

Haha could well be, only one digit different, they must of came from the same dealership?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by J8TRO

Looks like a great motor mate, just an observation but the metal contamination on the front might re appear regularly depending what you have treated it with. A friend had a white 5 and it was a real problem, he would clean and polish it, and a few weeks later it would come back.

There is an awesome product called Iron X. It dissolves the metal particles in the paint (normally caused by brake pads) but can be caused by fall out if the car is parked anywhere industrial (foundries etc)

Highly recomend the stuff. You spray it on, leave it 5 mins, it breaks down the particles and turns a purple colour, then you just rinse / wipe it off.

Treated my mates car and its never come back.

---

Ok thanks for the advice, I'll have a look at that stuff. They only way I've found to get it completely off in the past, is to wet flat the paint (what I did this time too) them polish it back. If its starts to come back I'll give that stuff a try...cheape than a respray! :scared:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Trevhib

Yep, that thing with the two blue spade connectors is the turbo heat shield sensor that the anti-perc fan uses (and yes it's just a thermal switch). Since you have no heat shield (and most don't), it has nowhere to mount to, so it just hangs about.

You have three choices with it. Either remove it (a lot of people just remove the entire perc-fan and gubbins), fit a heat shield (and fit the sensor to it), or tie-wrap the sensor in a position that is close to the turbo.

I'd probably go with the first option but keep all the parts.

---

The plan is to make my own heat shield. Has anyone got a good picture of where they clamp to?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Hoolio

Ahhh Iron x, THE worst smelling thing on the planet. Fact.

---

Yeah, TBF it bloody stinks.

I've decided to clean up the air filter box whilst its out, looks tatty. As did a few other brackets so I decided to clean them up too.

I've also been trying to remove the air box mount and IC mount bracket, is there any way to get to the back of the studs/captive bolts as they are in a box section? They are very rusty, I've been putting penetration fluid on them for the past few days, but it only seems to be freeing up the stud and not the nut...heating it up is an option, but Im a bit worried about scorching the paint. :crap:

The speedo cable all looks to be intact, what's the best way to test if the sensor is working? Multimeter on the wires to test for pulsed signal whilst driving? Lol EDIT: found the answer. :D

http://i59.tinypic.com/111uqro.jpg

All cleaned up, ready for paint.

http://i58.tinypic.com/140j2b8.jpg

Great looking car. Good work so far

Coming along nicely, good to see ya getting stuck in :) :agree:

Thanks for the comments. :) I'm just getting the bits done i can at he moment until my clutch cable and other parts arrive.

Anyways some completed parts.

http://i58.tinypic.com/2h804g9.jpg

I machined up some stainless washers for the front wiper grommets, as you can see the o,d ones rusted and stained the paint. The paint cleaned up ok, but I didn't want it to happen again.

http://i58.tinypic.com/288tgx.jpg

http://i60.tinypic.com/30sukqq.jpg

http://i61.tinypic.com/smr1ap.jpg

I've managed to get a bit more done today, but I have also managed to snap the front IC mount bolt that goes into the front crossmember. Has anyone got a good way to remove the captive nuts without destroying the panel? I was going to try and drill out the bolt, but then i noticed that they were captive nuts, and thought about replacing the nut.

These things.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/M4-M5-M6-M...item2a322f0972

Dashboard is near enough out now, took just over an hour and wasn't as bad as I'd thought it would be. Just the white plug on the wiring harness on the passenger footwell stopping it coming fully out now. My battery tray is passed it's best, and rheostat not working, so thought I may aswell take it out and swap the battery clamp bracket round, so the nuts are in the engine bay and do the rheostat too. I may do the heater matrix, but it look pretty good condition to be honest. :crap:

Ive decided to make a stainless battery tray for it, as I want something that'll last.

http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/g...ps694208e5.jpg

Its nearly out fella, definitely change the heater matrix whilst its out as a lot easier when dash is out, wouldnt want it to start leaking in a months time for the sake of £30 ;) :agree:

That's what I was thinking. ;)

Well the dash was fully removed today and then I found something that looked....lets put it not so good! :mad::confused:

When it bought the car, I was told that it had a new sill on the passenger side, I could see that it had been welded etc... But looked decent from the outside, but they didn't bother removing the rot before patching it up. :sad2:

The outside, looked reasonable.

http://i62.tinypic.com/wbvuc4.jpg

http://i61.tinypic.com/9arexz.jpg

Inside not soo good!

http://i59.tinypic.com/2iksb2d.jpg

http://i58.tinypic.com/urbx1.jpg

http://i60.tinypic.com/10znwiq.jpg

After about 4 hours of blood shead, shouting and swearing at the car, the angle grinder, the cat. Lol it hasn't cleaned up too bad once the old rot was removed. I just don't understand the logic in leaving the old metal in place and plating over the top. :confused:

http://i60.tinypic.com/okzg2e.jpg

http://i62.tinypic.com/11kut6r.jpg

Exactly what were they thinking! :scared:

Good work, glad you got it sorted fella, drivers side ok or been replaced? :) :agree:

Fortunately the drivers side is good. I'm just going to finish cleaning up this side, rust treat it, seam seal it, and paint it.

Next summer I plan to tackle a few areas around the bumper mounts and headlights, and I'll have another dig around. I need it on the road in 3 weeks as its going to be my daily. I know if take too much more off I'll end up stripping it bare, which defeats the object of having a car to drive. Lol

Both my other cars are fully restored, and you forget how bad it is working with rusty old seized bolts and past "repairs" that catch you out.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Matty

That's what I was thinking. ;)

Well the dash was fully removed today and then I found something that looked....lets put it not so good! :mad::confused:

When it bought the car, I was told that it had a new sill on the passenger side, I could see that it had been welded etc... But looked decent from the outside, but they didn't bother removing the rot before patching it up. :sad2:

The outside, looked reasonable.

http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/g...ps87037964.jpg

http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/g...ps17f1cd36.jpg

Inside not soo good!

http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/g...ps96820dad.jpg

http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/g...ps465fb794.jpg

http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/g...psa7e47112.jpg

---

You could buy my mint floor out of r5 Monaco as outer panels and sills was rusty or dents but the floor from firewall to boot floor like new and no rust/rot 👍

Well my bits arrived today. :D old heate matrix out, new one ready to go in.

http://i61.tinypic.com/hukhi1.jpg

Well dashboard is near enough back in, although I have a couple of plugs that I don't know where they go? Can someone help me out with where these two plugs go?

This one is on the drivers side.

http://i59.tinypic.com/sn1eud.jpg

This one near the ash tray too, with yellow, black and blue wires.

http://i57.tinypic.com/qqycgn.jpg

Well I had a few good results today. :D found where the missing plugs go, one was tucked right inside the dash by the pedals for rear harness, other on heater switch loom. I now have a fully working heater fan...with 3 speeds (mod cons). :p I also managed to get my interior light working. Looks like the ariel had leaked at some point, as the circuit board was green, and main terminal was rotten away. I may need another plug in the long term, but I've managed to reposition the connection on the plug to work for now. I'm using those LED festoon bulbs, they seems to give nice white light....quality is something that needs to be addressed though. 5 out of the 10 I bought don't work. :mad:

Central locking now works, on both sides too...but I seemed to of lost the bloody internal door button somewhere.

One step closer to standard, just awaiting yellow foggys now.

http://i62.tinypic.com/263u00k.jpg

http://i60.tinypic.com/20uxxua.jpg

5 out of the 10 I bought don't work

You probably already know this but I believe these bulbs only work one way round.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by markg

5 out of the 10 I bought don't work

You probably already know this but I believe these bulbs only work one way round.

---

Nope i didn't know that! and I forgot LEDs are polarity concious! :ashamed: Just seen on the back and there is a tiny + - sign. I'll stick to building engines! Lol

I've refitted a new clutch cable too over the weekend, and made no difference. The cable I removed was a genuine one too, so I have now ordered a new ratchet mech as the white part does look slightly worn on the teeth.

Well a few more bits done. My stainless battery tray is nearly done, clutch ratchet arrived yesterday, so job for tomorrow...fingers crossed it sorts the clutch! :rolleyes: then it can go in for an mot. Badges have been blasted and repainted correct colour.

http://i58.tinypic.com/166hy0i.jpg

http://i60.tinypic.com/b6c1ea.jpg

Well that's the battery tray done. :D Mot booked for Saturday, so fingers crossed!

http://i62.tinypic.com/2j456y1.jpg

http://i62.tinypic.com/28swjnr.jpg

http://i57.tinypic.com/qn056q.jpg

http://i62.tinypic.com/11gmzax.jpg

I thought I'd better was off the oily finger prints before the mot. It's scrubbed up well.

http://i62.tinypic.com/n2mrt2.jpg

http://i60.tinypic.com/15mk681.jpg

Top job on the battery tray :agree:

How did you get the GTT upside-down? :D

Thanks, I thought it was worth doing while the dashboard was out, I've turned the clamp round now too? :)

How'd you mean upside down? Are the pics showing upside down? :confused:

Yessum. :)

They're the right way up on my screen....hmmm not sure what's going on there? :confused:

Weird!

Anyone else seeing Matty's car the wrong way up? :confused:

I think the last four pics are upside down, unless he's hanging above his workgroup to take a picture :laugh:

:laugh:

How did you get the badges painted? I need to do a set for mine.

haha, I've just looked on my phone and they are upside on that...strange!

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Matt_S

How did you get the badges painted? I need to do a set for mine.

---

To paint the badge I shot blasted the old paint off, etch primed, then painted body colour (4 coats) The red and black was painted on by hand and left to dry over night, and then any edges were cleaned up using wet dry dry.

When removing the paint on the renault part, it looks like it was originally all painted black, then white over the top, then the tips of the letters flatted back to black. It would probably be easier this way. :crap:

Thanks. That's great. :)

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Matty

When removing the paint on the renault part, it looks like it was originally all painted black, then white over the top, then the tips of the letters flatted back to black. It would probably be easier this way. :crap:

---

Yeh, that's what I was thinking if doing to be honest. :agree:

Well I've had my 5 on the road for the past week now, and needless to say I'm enjoying the drive to and from work. :D

I'm now trying to sort out all of the little problems with the car...like oil pressure gauge!

This is doing my head in! :mad: soo far I've continuity tested wiring, to the oil sender and level switch, all checked out fine. When I switch the ignition on I get 5.5v on the oil pressure gauge terminal on the back of the gauge, then after 3-4seconds it disappears, which sounds right. Then when I start the car, I get a steady 5.5v on the gauge. The only thing is the needle doesn't move. So I took the clocks out today, and put a 5v power supply on the terminals of the oil pressure gauge and negative wire on clock earth pin and the needle moved round to about the 4-5bar mark on the dials, so why doesn't it move when it's in the car and getting 5v? I'm determined to not let this beat me! Lol any help on this would help me tick this problem off the list!

Ah at least it kind of functions.

Might be worth getting a spare set of clocks as the oil pressure gauge itself maybe faulty, mine works when it wants to,. It kind of waves at me like its decided to read level then switches to pressure. Has sometimes read less pressure then sits there until next time it feels like working lol. :coffee:

Yep, I think you're right. I'm on the lookout for another set of clocks now, at least then I can rule out any faults with them.

I've managed to get hold of a set of front bumper strips, so that's the front back to OE complete. Still need to find the rear strips though. :crap:

Oil pressure gauge working, original plip now working, fog lights now working, speedo works sometimes now :laugh:...work in progress on that one!

I've also made some new front bumper mounts to replace the last monstrosities! And it's now solid and straight. :) these were made 35mm longer than OE ones as the original mount holes on the bumper had broken off.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/150...910/CUsy0g.jpg

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/150...540/75gpWx.jpg

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/150...673/hK590q.jpg







Unfortunately I've started losing water, and I'm dreading the worst (head gasket) so I'm collecting some parts up just I case it is that. I'm going to replace the head with another one, thats ready to go, to save time (as its my daily) and swap out the water pump and fit a stainless manifold and downpipe too. I've got hold of a stainless downpipe, so I'm going to make a jig from it to make my own for my new engine,turbo build next summer. :coffee:

If anyone has a head spare and able to post let me know. I don't mind if it needs work, I can skim and pressure test it if needs be, but would prefer a known good one that just needs valves lapping etc..

I've just measured the distance from my front wheel arch to ground, and it measures 62mm does this seem right for OE spec or a little high?

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/150...633/QxNbYO.jpg

Some more progress. The head gasket was passing water, so I decided to port my spare head and inlet manifold and fit them whilst I was at it. next job will be getting the brackets replated then continue making my new manifold and downpipe.

Out with the old.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/150...674/JISwsx.jpg

In with the new.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/150...537/K1ZaJi.jpg

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/150...673/rOBDpc.jpg

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/150...674/GKI0YA.jpg

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/150...908/8o2GxA.jpg

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/150...538/WLxF9F.jpg

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/150...661/MRFtFQ.jpg

Started on the new GT series downpipe.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/150...538/IYACSy.jpg

And found my old membership card! :)

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/150...538/lmAMM9.jpg

Nice project. 👌looks like a really decent motor. Good work chap.

Top work and nice project :agree:

Slow window motion on a car that has been stood can be helped immensely
by...
1) making sure the windows are really clean - use a clay bar or clay cloth
inside and out, using plain water or a wax-free cleaner, followed by a good
polish with a pre-wax cleaner. Nothing containing wax! Then buff absolutely
clean and slick.
2) Giving the slot through which the glass passes a good clean and some
lubrication with a slick liquid sealant. You'll get some on the glass as it goes
up and down, which is why I'm saying not to treat the glass. If you use
anything on the glass it could compete with the sealant and actually impede
progress.

I was amazed at just how big the improvement was on my car.

Regards,
Steve

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Lowiepete

Slow window motion on a car that has been stood can be helped immensely
by...
1) making sure the windows are really clean - use a clay bar or clay cloth
inside and out, using plain water or a wax-free cleaner, followed by a good
polish with a pre-wax cleaner. Nothing containing wax! Then buff absolutely
clean and slick.
2) Giving the slot through which the glass passes a good clean and some
lubrication with a slick liquid sealant. You'll get some on the glass as it goes
up and down, which is why I'm saying not to treat the glass. If you use
anything on the glass it could compete with the sealant and actually impede
progress.

I was amazed at just how big the improvement was on my car.

Regards,
Steve

---

Great advice here as most windows on the 5s are as slow as anything and look like they are about to give up.

Sorry to be a pain but you mention some generic products to use- any chance of actually naming some brands please? As I'd love to attempt your techniques but I wouldn't have the first clue on where to buy this stuff :)

Yeah mine near enough stop half way down, it's a job for when the weather perks up I think! Thanks for the advise, I think a good strip down and clean up is in order.

Next job on the list is to sort the rear wiper out (fit new motor) and replace the quarter window rubbers and catches, as they keep fogging up around the seals, and the quarter windows have dropped at the back.

I've got a pile of bits shot blasted ready for plating now, I just need to source a spare choke bracket and choke linkage to complete the set.

What colour should the parcel shelf be? Mine is just a plastic one, but I'm thinking of covering it in felt instead of searching for a GTT one?

Parcel shelf colour I believe is Phase 1 and early Phase 2 = Grey. Later Phase 2 = Black. Being a H plate I am fairly sure yours would have been black.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by LiamR

Sorry to be a pain but you mention some generic products to use- any chance of actually naming some brands please?

---

So, to buy from one place, go to Serious Performance. Recommended products to buy
would be some...

paint cleanser - good on glass and paint,

show detailer as the lubricant

fine detailing clay

Both the cleaner and show detailer are available in larger sizes for little extra money.
I swear by both products - what the paint cleaner fetches out with these pads will
probably astound you!

Cut the clay bar into 3 or 4 pieces and place the bits into an old mug and half fill with
fairly hot water. Add about 2 capfuls of show detailer (SPSD) and leave to stand for
several minutes. The water needs to be hand hot at this point. If the glass is cold, then
you'll need the mug handy to keep the clay warm. You need to be able to freely knead
the clay like softish plasticene. The clay will harden if it gets cold. Rotate the bits back
into the warm water as you go.

If you have some low-tack tape, then lower the window a little so the top is showing
and mask off the base. Spray the window with SPSD then clean with the clay, keeping an
eye on its surface. Try, if you can, to treat the clay as a puck beneath your palm. The
surface needs to be wet at all times so the clay slides freely without pressure! I repeat,
it does _not_ need pressure to work. Have a first practice on glass, where if you drop
the clay, it can be caught without getting dirty. Always, but always fold the clay so that
the dirt is folded in on itself. If you drop a clay piece, it's game over! No messing! Do
_not_ try and attempt any rescue!

Once you fold the clay, liberally spray the window then, supporting the glass from
behind, press the clay fairly firmly onto the surface to flatten it, taking care that it does
not stick!

Next give the glass a good polish with the paint cleaner (SPPC). Note it doesn't contain
abrasives and works chemically. Unlike the windscreen, you should not use any product
with abrasives because you don't want these getting into the bottom seals. You need
to allow the SPPC to work and just gently buff it off.

Once done, remove the tape, fully lower the window, soak the corner of a microfibre
cloth into the clay liquid and with it wrapped around a finger or three, give the slot a
really good clean. Keep rotating until the cloth comes out clean. You _don't_ need much
pressure, just let the cloth do its thing. Several gentle passes are better than a few with
force.

Finally, liberally spray neat SPSD into the cloth and apply that to the slot. Test the
window operation, giving it a wipe if there's surplus SPSD on it.

If you order the lot from Alex at SP, you can name drop - he'll look after you! :)

The SPSD is fantastic on paint too.

With Season's Greetings,
Steve

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by markg

Parcel shelf colour I believe is Phase 1 and early Phase 2 = Grey. Later Phase 2 = Black. Being a H plate I am fairly sure yours would have been black.

---

Thanks Mark, I remember my old 5 had a black shelf at that was a G plate but all the ones I've seen are grey. Black would make it easier to colour match! :D

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Lowiepete

So, to buy from one place, go to Serious Performance. Recommended products to buy
would be some...

paint cleanser - good on glass and paint,

show detailer as the lubricant

fine detailing clay

Both the cleaner and show detailer are available in larger sizes for little extra money.
I swear by both products - what the paint cleaner fetches out with these pads will
probably astound you!

Cut the clay bar into 3 or 4 pieces and place the bits into an old mug and half fill with
fairly hot water. Add about 2 capfuls of show detailer (SPSD) and leave to stand for
several minutes. The water needs to be hand hot at this point. If the glass is cold, then
you'll need the mug handy to keep the clay warm. You need to be able to freely knead
the clay like softish plasticene. The clay will harden if it gets cold. Rotate the bits back
into the warm water as you go.

If you have some low-tack tape, then lower the window a little so the top is showing
and mask off the base. Spray the window with SPSD then clean with the clay, keeping an
eye on its surface. Try, if you can, to treat the clay as a puck beneath your palm. The
surface needs to be wet at all times so the clay slides freely without pressure! I repeat,
it does _not_ need pressure to work. Have a first practice on glass, where if you drop
the clay, it can be caught without getting dirty. Always, but always fold the clay so that
the dirt is folded in on itself. If you drop a clay piece, it's game over! No messing! Do
_not_ try and attempt any rescue!

Once you fold the clay, liberally spray the window then, supporting the glass from
behind, press the clay fairly firmly onto the surface to flatten it, taking care that it does
not stick!

Next give the glass a good polish with the paint cleaner (SPPC). Note it doesn't contain
abrasives and works chemically. Unlike the windscreen, you should not use any product
with abrasives because you don't want these getting into the bottom seals. You need
to allow the SPPC to work and just gently buff it off.

Once done, remove the tape, fully lower the window, soak the corner of a microfibre
cloth into the clay liquid and with it wrapped around a finger or three, give the slot a
really good clean. Keep rotating until the cloth comes out clean. You _don't_ need much
pressure, just let the cloth do its thing. Several gentle passes are better than a few with
force.

Finally, liberally spray neat SPSD into the cloth and apply that to the slot. Test the
window operation, giving it a wipe if there's surplus SPSD on it.

If you order the lot from Alex at SP, you can name drop - he'll look after you! :)

The SPSD is fantastic on paint too.

With Season's Greetings,
Steve

---

A great bit of info there Steve! Thanks very much.

I will def be purchasing a few bits from that website to make my 5 sparkle for the summer :cartman:

Sweet car mate,, love the White ones keep up the good work.

Thanks, I've still got a way to go with tidying it up back to OE spec. Although some engine mods will make it non OE. :crap:

My bonnet mat arrived today. :D

It needs a bit of work, as it has a few patches of felt missing. I'm tempted to recover it all, in some flame proof felt, as it'll probably make for a better finish, but I'm struggling to find something suitable at the moment. Anyone got any experience in tidying bonnet mats up? Lol

I took the 5 to its first show of the year at Bicester heritage Sunday brunch meet today. Not surprising, but it was the only one there. :) good show, but my fog light shattered on the way home.

https://www.rtoc.org/boards/picture.p...ictureid=10527

Upsidedown pic. :D

https://www.rtoc.org/boards/picture.p...ictureid=10526

How did you smash the fog light mate?

No idea mate, i washed the car in the morning and it was fine. Got home and noticed it was smashed.

Gutted but at least its an easy fix :-)

It's been a while since the last update! Probably due to the lack of work being done to the 5. The plan was to keep it OE but I'm finding it difficult not to tinker. :D

After some knocking and squeaking coming fromthe front end, and a worn tyre, it was about time I refreshed the suspension at the front. And as I have had campus springs fitted since I bought the car it was rude not to lower it, so I went for 35mm. Front end has dropped 50mm from what it was...massive difference! I've got the back to do tomorrow, so I'll get some before and after shots up. Thanks to Steven leece for sorting me out with some springs, they were spot on. :agree:

A busy day ahead

http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/g...psfpzgosfr.jpg

Certainly needed a refresh!

http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/g...pslrig2gyy.jpg

All cleaned up and regreased.

http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/g...pszsjvnz3x.jpg

I had a slight issue with the lower arms I bought, they fouled the subframe on the drivers side...is this a common thing? It was an easy fix, but a bit annoying having having to grind and paint new parts. :crap: quite a bit had to be removed on the corners.

http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/g...pslajxfzf6.jpg

http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/g...psbotgflzp.jpg

Rear is all done now. :coffee:

Is the front camber and caster adjustable at all? It looks like you might get some adjustment on the bottom spherical joint, but is this enough to make a difference? I'm just trying to work out whether it's worth getting all the geometry set up at a garage, or if it's only the tracking that's adjustable track it up at work?

Before.

http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/g...psgrvikcck.jpg

http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/g...ps27ybzkia.jpg

After -50mm drop on the front -30mm on the rear.
http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/g...ps8feeewtr.jpg

http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/g...ps586kymuq.jpg

Sits much better now..... the more i see lowered 5'S on std wheels the more i want a set to!

:smokin:

Sits nicely on the standard 13's, good work :agree: :).

Sooooo much nicer to drive now, and on 13's not too harsh either.

New headlights being fitted this weekend...and having a play with an HID xenon setup. :D

http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/g...psdw6glc9b.jpg

Someone on here is making adjustable top mounts Matty ;) forget his name.:agree:

Found it

https://www.rtoc.org/boards/showthrea...ustable+mounts

They look like a nice piece of kit! I ended up just tracking it up for now, the camber was the same both sides, so not a massive issue for now.

I got impatient and fitted the first headlight this evening, whilst it was dark it made it easier to set the beam height too. Cant believe how bad my lights were! 6400k LED sidelights bulbs and standard H4 at the moment.

http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/g...psu75yusx5.jpg

http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/g...pslatqzpf4.jpg

http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/g...psafpjkfxh.jpg

http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/g...psvznlu9so.jpg

http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/g...psdvhpcjtk.jpg

New headlights always cause a big visual improvement on the front end :agree:

Ah definitely! I've just been for a drive with the xenons, so much better than standard bulbs. I managed to hide all the wiring, so it looks OE in the engine bay. :D

http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/g...psuduljzpl.jpg

http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/g...psqs1bfsma.jpg

Respray time! And time for a fair few modifications too. I've decided to go for an FMIC and a custom airbox/duct to go with it. But for now, it's on to the bodywork!

I started digging and this came to the surface. An interesting repair to say the least...at least they had a go! :laugh:

It all had to go, so the grinder cam out...amazed how thin the panel was! :dearme: I started trimming another section from a do ar panel, it's nearly ready to weld up, took some time.


http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/g...pspx6vvmsj.jpg

http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/g...psdpaoqor1.jpg

http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/g...psejat5p5h.jpg

Horrible those types of repairs.:crap: I have loads like that to do. :cry:

My main issue is that I only have a TIG welder, so the gaps have to be perfect and I can only weld a little at a time. Not as many repairs to do as yours, so I can't complain. :laugh:

I have these to try and sort out now. I had a go last night, but I need some stronger glue for the inside corners.

http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/g...psvbnghvwm.jpg:confused:

Yeah you have to pull the material quite taught which means the glue needs to be fairly industrial. Something like time bond or the stuff the local trimmers use.

I am thinking of having some campus cards flocked and repair these cards if I ever want to put it back to OE, Still undecided. The front cards also need some work and after a respray they might stand out even more being a bit tatty.

I managed to repair the quarter panel today, happy that is done, had the welder set on 25A trying not to put holes straight though it. :laugh:Just some tidying up and filler work to finish off.

http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/g...psqe9e2mfp.jpg

http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/g...psgnh9n0ua.jpg

How have I missed your thread?! :dearme: Great project you've got going here Matty. Unfortunately my works computer can no longer see your most recent pictures (they're too tight to update the browsers!) I'll have to check on my phone or laptop.

Keep up the good work for now! :agree:

Thanks Alex, I have set aside the whole week to get the bodywork done and get it off to paint, need the space in my workshop, and I have lots of plans for the engine bay which is going to take some time to make. More progress today, the passenger wheel arch is too rotten, so I converted a Campus wing into GTT, it took soem time getting the holes in the correct place, but it all fits nicely now.

http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/g...psaw492pnn.jpg

Boot need some repairs to the bump stops also.


http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/g...ps46hwhekg.jpg

One side nearly done, just the hole to still and some filler work.

http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/g...psd6atsf9v.jpg

http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/g...psbgrurm3g.jpg

http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/g...pso6xbfbp1.jpg

A bit more progress today. B post all finished off.

http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/g...ps6fwko1qy.jpg

Another crusty panel that had to go, so made a complete new one. I'm not sure exactly not I looked before it rotted away, but the replacement fills the gap nicely.

http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/g...pspg4wwxvd.jpg

http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/g...ps49za5jun.jpg

And this arrived today. :D looks to be a nice fit, just need to make some custom bottom bumper brackets up.

http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/g...psaqjrakru.jpg

Boot fully repaired. Then I made a start on my OE+ filter box.:laugh:

Does anyone know what diameter the standard telephone hose is?

http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/g...pstea3ut3l.jpg

http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/g...pshm49xfcc.jpg

http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/g...psokmzlazf.jpg

http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/g...pswfj7b0xt.jpg

Nicely done mate, good work! :agree::)

Thanks, it's getting there! I can get on with the fun part now of making all the engine bay parts.

The to do list:

Make air duct for FMIC to seal against bumper
Finish ram air duct for filter
Tubular manifold (still deciding whether to go external wastegate or not?)
Fabricated rocker cover
Fabricate new header tank

Some more parts arrived today, and had a little oley to check it all fits...does just! The plan is to make a sealed duct against the grill, and create slight positive pressure at the turbo inlet (power for nothing after all).

http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/g...psqgsasote.jpg

http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/g...psot5l1akl.jpg

http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/g...pswb0pdntv.jpg

Looks good mate

You gone green hoses too? Same colour as mine! :D

He Yep, it's not OE in the engine bay anymore so I thought I may aswell make it stand out! :laugh:

It all looks a bit Heath Robinson at the moment, but it will all come together when I get everything fully fitted.

I was hoping the engine would be ok, but after stripping the ancillaries off to give it a coat of paint, my engine building instincts took over and I gave the crank a push and pull....needs to come apart!

It doesn't look too bad, just the mains need a regrind, fresh set of rings and bearings, then it can go back together. Combustion chambers are a very nice colour after 20k since the last build so that's encouraging.

The plan is to fit a 285 cam while its aparts and get the sumo,rocker cover, timing cover etc... All powder coated black. Others parts are currently off being plated.

By the sound of things the shell won't be back until mid April, so that doesn't give me long before retro show. Trying to get all the sub assemblies ready for a production line type assembly. :laugh:

http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/g...pst9xw1ta3.jpg

Well the shell is now in primer, so I hope to get this back at the end of the month. Which means I need to pull my finger out to get the car back together! The crank is back after a regrind on the mains and polish on the BE, block thoroughly cleaned and painted, then more cleaning on the engine components. I light deglaze on the bores made them ready for new rings.

Just waiting for the zinc plated parts to come back now.

Lots of new parts.

http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/g...psu5jld7t3.jpg

Engine block cleaned.

http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/g...ps53e9cmav.jpg

http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/g...psqo6gm329.jpg

Fresh regrind!

http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/g...psl887fjga.jpg

A bit cleaner now!

http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/g...psotnedhaj.jpg

All clean, I think the timing sprocket got damaged during the regrind, luckily I had a spare.

http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/g...pspxwftrbd.jpg

Head cleaned up, and new valve springs fitted and exhaust stud helicoiled.

http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/g...pszw28ljjy.jpg

Some parts back from powder coating.

http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/g...ps6i0js63u.jpg

http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/g...pspockmqr1.jpg

Engine all back together and ready to go in.

http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/g...ps3xrmbh8e.jpg

http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/g...pskoftqopb.jpg

Plenty to do before retro show. :laugh:

http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/g...psykrbkoey.jpg

Paint is looking very good! :smokin:

Can't wait to see this!!!:D

Cheers. I think I'm on course for retro show. First start up this week. Collected doors and filler cap yesterday...more pics to come.

Will get some better pics next week when it stops raining! :crap:

Windows in with new seals.

http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/g...psvwnmii99.jpg

Started getting the panels aligned on the back end.

http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/g...pstkiokoda.jpg

Doors on, just got to fit the internals now, then onto repairing my wastegate on my turbo then finishing the engine off ready for startup!

http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/g...psfghsq02u.jpg