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right ive been trying now for weeks to get me 5 running proper first of all afrs all over the place and tick over was high then low / cut out...ive changed aei and got another carb tryed building a good one out the 2 now no matter what carb i use or jets it just wont run good at all it seems to be running very rich and no matter what i do nothing seems to matter im pulling my hair out with this please someone help me out here
New poster! (less than 10 posts)
Hi mate I have the same problem with mine at the moment mine has been like it for 2 years took it to a couple of different garages and no joy. I found a good mechanic who I spoke to and he said he will be able to sort it out. He is very reliable and knows what's he is doing. It is in the garage at this moment in time should be done in the next few days so I will let you know how I get on ASAP and maybe u could give it a go your end. Keep u postedQuote:
Originally Posted by KEV 5 GT
yes any help would be more than greatfull im tearing my hair out its deffo baffled me this one :confused:
I know the feeling mine is averaging 4 miles to the gallon I listened to a few of my friends and they told me to take it to this person and that person and it was no good. The chap who's having a go now is and old school mechanic and I trust him to get it sorted. I have rebuild my carb and it made no difference so time to let the expert have a go. As soon as I have news will let u know. Nothing worse than having a 5 run like s**t needs to be enjoyed.
its running that crap sounds like its running on 3 lol but give it a good rev and its happy but running very rich flames and bangs out the exhaust god knows
When idling what AFR are you getting Kev ?
when it does idel well kinda the afrs are 10.5
You adjusted the mixture screw ?
yh but dint seem to do much
Hi dont know if you have checked the jets to make sure there standard and have a gasket kit to rebuild it from then you can start from a good base and tune it from there and rule out any faulty parts/spilt gaskets.
ive tryed going back to all standard jets / diferant air correctors ect ive tryed all the common things this is why i carnt understand whats what baffled me
Have you taken the needle all the way out ?Quote:
Originally Posted by KEV 5 GT
what needle andy
have u got the standard fuel pump fitted?
have u got the standard fuel pressure regulator fitted?
try and measure the pressure with a guage...should read 4psi max at idle
standard pump ph 1
standard fpr i think
how do i check pressure ? what with
The idle needle. Take it out , all the way out.Quote:
Originally Posted by KEV 5 GT
the idle screw you mean ive taken that out ?
Kev,what jets,valves,bushes have you measured with micro drill bits?
just ac/main jet
So you dont know what idle jet you have,1st stage,2nd stage,needle valve,acc pump jet.
Take it out , have a look at it. Is it broken? Is the O ring on it ?Quote:
Originally Posted by KEV 5 GT
no o ring on acc pump jet looks like its leeking from there when press throttle 1 carb has stock 2nd stage jet the other has 2nd jet drilled to 1.3mm tryed differant air corectors tho and still the same
Buy a rebuild kit from the club shop and take it from there.:agree:
the old carb ran fine with no acc pump jet o ring in there before im lost on this one
I never said the acc. pump. I said the idle needle. There should be a rubber O ring on it..Quote:
Originally Posted by KEV 5 GT
the screw on side of carb you mean idle jet ? ive took that out and its got an oring on it ?
Its not a jet. It is on the side. It has a flat head on itQuote:
Originally Posted by KEV 5 GT
Look like :
http://www.gt-turbo-spares.co.uk/car...s/100_0229.JPG
oh you mean the mixture screw i will take it out if theres no o ring on it or its broke can this cause a prob then ?
Yes. It can cause erratic and poor idling. The ends tend to snap, or the o ring dry out and crack
right ok i will have a look 2mo see whats what there and let you know :agree:
right ive fully rebuilt carb today seems good and working as it should but car still running ruff sounds like its running on 3 cylinders checked plugs there black checked for spark and seemed like on one cylinder the spark was intermitent and sparking from leads.....am i looking at a set of leads here or something else ?? it does sound like it to me / and maybe a set of plugs as well...
Put some new campus plugs in.Gap them correctly.Campus plugs are dirt cheap and work.Then take it from there.If its not the plugs then you will be glad you bought the campus ones.:agree:
whats the score with the Campus plugs then ? ive got a feeling its the plug leads breaking down looks like there shorting out as sparking coming from middle of leads
The crack is they cost about £7:agree:
Ht leads shouldn't be arching out the lead, sounds like the ht leads are broken down, good guess the rest of the ignition system isn't good condition either.
Without reading the whole thread, try new ht leads and king lead, dissy cap, rotor arm and spark plugs. Be carefull you don't push the rotor arm too far down the dissy shaft as the rotor arm won't contact the dissy cap correctly, push it down and lift it 2-3mm check the dissy cap after a few 100miles and see what markings are inside the contacts
If the problem isn't solved after that you might have to start looking at tappet adjustment, bent push rods or even burnt out valves.
i got quoted £1.99 + vat from local motor spares for plugs lol im gonna get some new plugs and leads in the morning and i will check distribitor thats new but will check its lined up like you say see whats what
Not £7 each Kev.Thats £7 for four.Start with the cheapest option.
there probs the ones then they maybe trying to rob me £3 lol
Basically lawn mower plugs,
Good for finding faults with, no so good for longevity and performance applications, see this happening lots on car forums lately because people cannot diagnose correctly and guess alot
Nothing wrong with campus plugs.People have been using them with a good dolop of boost for years.Mine have outlasted the iridium plugs i had and cost a third of the price.
right carb rebuilt new plugs and leads and shes up and running ive set the carb up to the best i can but when i took her out for a run it seems like when i floor it on boost it seems to be holding back and a bit of a pop from exhaust then she goes good ??? any ideas as to whats what now :confused:
do you have a wideband to see how the fueling is reacting when it holds back?
If not anyone local to you that can help?
yh ive got the lm1 kit fitted i only took it around a few streets to see if it was ok afr on tick over was 13 to 13.5 i dint look what it was doing when going along shall i check to see whats what ? not sure if its fuel or ignition side of things ? could a boost leak or any other leak cause this ?
just tryed starting her up and took me about 40 mins to get her going it seemed to me like there was intermitant spark at the king lead sparking then not ??? what could that be ?? also tick over is abit up and down and im not sure if the acc pump jet is doing its job as well
oh also took it for a run and when the hesitation and spluttering kicks in the afrs go to around 19/20s
did you change the king lead with the ht leads?
yes got a full set of leads
mif your engine earths are good then maybe your coil pack has gone weak or the tdc sensor is playing up?
Check your getting a good voltage at the aei with the engine running with minimal voltage drop.
With the engine running,
Check voltage across the battery should be 13.8-14.5volts.
Now check you get near enough the same at the aei 12+ wire to the batterys earth.
there could be a dodgy wire somewhere the only thing is iam not an electition and
me and wires dont mix lol does the tdc lead make it spark ? ive tryed another aei also
Thats very lean. On Idol you should be looking for around 14. WOT around 12/13 depending on the power that you are running.Quote:
Originally Posted by KEV 5 GT
19/20 suggests that there is very little fuel at times, maybe this is your problem...
im just wondering if its down to the acc jet not squirting fuel down the carb cos it
dont seem to be very well if at all when i press throtle ?
TBH if its coughing & spluttering the afr's will go all over the place.
So you need to start eliminating things that could cause poor or no spark.
Check for rotor arm condition
Check no moisture is in the dissy cap (is the o ring in good nick)
Remove the sprak plugs and check the colour
make sure all the leads are plugged on nice and tight to the spark plugs (if not squeeze them a little with pliers) You can also take a resistance reading to ensure they are within tolerance, very easy to do with a multi meter http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DI_aI8KElrM
Make sure your spark plug gaps are correct
Check the voltage at the AEI
Check your tappet clearences
Check that there are no exhaust leaks before & after the lambda sensor & where it screws in.
Check you have no air leaks on the inlet manifold/carb (buy a can of easy start and have a spray around, carb base, carb,inlet manifold).
Missfire on boost will show as a lean spikes on wideband
well ive put another aei on new plugs / leads new dizzy and rotor arm / rebuilt carb with all stock jets....i can pick a spanner up but when it comes to electrics im not that good
:goodpost:Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave Reed
Quote:
Originally Posted by KEV 5 GT
You still have some more things to check on the list. Tbh its near impossible to guess the fault, you need to fault find. If you can't do that, then I would suggest taking it to a specialist.
What is it you dont understand about 'electrics'? All you need to do is take a voltage reading or a ohm reading, I even posted a video to show you how :agree:
that vid only shows you how to test the plug leads does it not ?
and there new ? ive just changed the acc jet and thats done nothing...
Quote:
Originally Posted by KEV 5 GT
Just because something is new dosent always mean its good. Have a look on youtube how to use a multi meter, its very easy.
Have you checked the rest of the stuff on the list? Honestly fella you need to check everything, post the results up and we may be able to help further.
I personally think you have an air leak or a blocked jet in the carb Or a bad earth causing you issues, but it may be none of them. Just trying to help you out :agree:
where do i need to check for air leaks dave ? would that acc jet cause the prob
im gonna get another tdc lead 2mo as the one thats on is a cheap copy and im sure its a phase 1 tdc if that matters at all but i know the plugs dont click in right
You need to buy a can of easy start and get spraying it around the area I said in my previous post. If revs up or the engine note changes when you spray it in those areas you have an air leak.
Tdc sensor could well be the issue, especially if it's not clicking together properly..
thanks for you help and patiance dave and all others i will put a new tdc sensor on and do other checks see whats what and let you know :agree:
well just chucked a new tdc lead on there seems to be a better spark now but she struggling to fire now and wont start theres live to the aei as well but sommots holding her back it seems like ive checked everything over and over but still no good :dearme::scratch:
right checked all plugs / leads dizzy cap ok checked every thing said put another acc pump jet in that works ok now seems alot better the misfire splutter is still there but not quite as bad ??????
pump jet shouldn't be affecting it starting or running on idle only when throttle pressed will it inject more fuel as the butterfly opens.
Hard to diagnose over forum chap, I bet someone local with knowledge on these would be able to get it running properly in a hour or 2.
does anyone local wanna help me out here ?? :)
Where are you?
just looked on your profile - Leicester :D
Have you check for air leaks yet?
Also try adding an extra engine earth, you can buy them on ebay cheap enough Or get one from ya local motor factors.
there dont seem to be any air leaks not that i can see of dave and i think theres been an extra earth wire put to the engine ive got some good thick cable is there another earth wire i can put on then ? if so wheres best to put it ?
You won't see an air leak, you need to test for it with easy start.Quote:
Originally Posted by KEV 5 GT
You can put extra earths on any bolt on the engine. I had one near the water pump and gearbox (the cover plate for 5th gear).
tryed the easy start and dont seem like theres any leaks
theres an earth from the battery to the bulk head someone has put there
i got a thick cable and touched the battery and put other end to the rocker cover bolt
but dint seem to do anything ?
Quote:
Originally Posted by KEV 5 GT
Good stuff :agree:
the Rocker cover has arubber gasket so not the best place.
Go from the earth on the bulkhead to the back of the inlet mani stud. Or for temp measures go batt the any bolt on the g/b or engine, just not the rocker cover.
Noticed the gearbox one the other day when I changed the loom.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave Reed
Have you tried cleaning the idle jet too?
Little test you can do to see if you have a blockage is undo the screw slightly (so the rubber is just of it's seat) and try start it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by JamesF
I hope you kept it :)
its gotta be sommot stupid cos once its running apart from flat spot at around 2k and the splutter between 3/4k she flys....
Yep. It'll be going back on. Also, you know that bar going across the inside of the roof (that took me hours to remove ha) that was what was making the roof sag near the sunroof, if was pulling it down. It's fine now.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave Reed
Quote:
Originally Posted by JamesF
The whole roof sagged when I removed the roof lining, that's why I put the bar in lol.
Get a project thread going.
Weird. When I cut through either end of the bar there was a 3mm gap either end. Battery seems to be on other side too. Also assume you had a rev limiter on left side. Mine screws straight into existing holes ha.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave Reed
Sorry for going off topic.
Hesitation generally means leaning off, have u got a spare fuel pressure regulator? Maybe give that a go.
ive not got a spare fpr but i noticed when i took the dizzy cap off it looked like the rotor arm was only just catching the prongs its a 21 turbo cap due to front mount i did pull the rotor arm up abit the other day but had it off again and the marks on it was still just catching it was working ok but maybe thats at fault here ???
does anyone know if the 5 gt rotor arm sits higher than the 21 turbo ?
You need to use the standard gtt rotor arm with the 21 angled cap.
hmmm we maybe getting somewhere now then ive just put the 21 turbo cap and arm on and like i said only just looks like its catching im hoping this will put and end to my issues....
Quote:
Originally Posted by KEV 5 GT
Lol you could of told us that days ago :D:laugh:
i only looked for the 2nd time today dave lol after i had pulled rotor arm up
so only seen today mate lol god i hope its just this after about £150 spent :dearme:
fingers crossed this is the prob ;)
Did u manage to sort it kev
ive not had chance to swap rotor arm yet mate i will try and sort it weekend and let you all know thanks for asking :agree:
well not good news i changed rotor arm today and she still took ages to get going and the splutter is still there so still no good..... when she did go i noticed abit of warter coming out the top gap where the turbo bolts onto manifold but went away after few seconds when warm....im not sure what else it could be bout ready to give up :(
I had the same problem for the last 2weeks and it was my tdc.
what was wrong with the tdc ive changed mine 3 times now
It was the top part of my tdc wire I changed the bottom part twice and it didn't do a thing.
so I got a ph1 tdc and that solved my problem.
Have u change the top part of yours or just the bottom?
ive not tryed the top part you mean going to the aei ? only the part going to gearbox
i did think about the top half if thats what you mean ? so was this you prob sorted and if so where did you get the top wireing bit from ?
was your car hard to start ?
Yes the part that goes to the aei, i got a ph1 tdc and that goes from the gearbox and plug's into the aei
so its just one piece.
It was a new one £15 from cgb.
this fixed my problem.
It was not hard to start but the afr's on idle were all over the place.
im having starting probs as well takes ages to get it going for some reason once going it seems to tick over ok but take it for a run and get hesitation bit of cut out at 2k ish then 3k to 4k proper splutter the boost kicks in and shes away im stumped
That's what mine was doing. I could not even boost it as it would missfire.
If ur after a ph1 tdc the eBay number is 160572676967 there is also a used Ph2 top half tdc on there
ive tryed a ph1 tdc now gone back to ph2 tdc as they click together proper whats the ph2 top half on ebay mate ?
Yeh its on eBay.
Did you connect to the ph1 tdc to the aei the or to the extension?
ph1 tdc to ph2 top part to aei
You should of put it straight to the aei.
If u have still got the ph1 tdc give it a try
no noy got it now
161233927903 thats the eBay number for the ph2 top tdc
ive found it mate thanks not sure if its gonna fix it maybe another £15 down the drain who knows lol
I tried everything.
New dizzy cap and rota arm
New ht leads
New spark plugs
Rebuild my carb
Cleaned the aei.
New ph2 bottom part tdc
The only reason I got a new ph1 tdc is because i couldn't source new ph2
yh ive done all the same as you changed all those things
Mine had similar problems once and of all things it was the fuel pump relay that was at fault found it by chance as it just wouldnt start one day traced problem to relay and changed it stopped all other problems very strange it was as if the relay was breaking down over time
i was thinking about the fuel relay ive got a spare so i might change that over see what happens then
Could the spluttering be caused by a leak around the turbo anywhere
As when I start it up I see seeps of water escaping ? its not blowing tho
Been cleaning carb out again today seems abit better
But still got a bit off splutter around 4k now ? got good spark at king lead and petrol seems to be coming through ok....could a boost leak cause it to this also ???