Hi guys its hard finding threads on b18ft builds as I only have the iPhone.
Could you help out and let me know who's got threads and links?
Thanks for the help :)
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Hi guys its hard finding threads on b18ft builds as I only have the iPhone.
Could you help out and let me know who's got threads and links?
Thanks for the help :)
https://www.rtoc.org/boards/showthread.php?t=19258
May help ya pal
Brilliant thanks
It can't be that easy surely :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Andyturbo!
:laugh: it seems that way from that thread but some how I can't see it lol
Or there is thisQuote:
Originally Posted by Andyturbo!
#2
davebem
ClioSport Club Member
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Hinckley, Leics
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172mk1 & Altea Sport
Re: Volvo 1.7 Turbo Mods
Theres some useful stuff on this website.
http://www.volvo-480-europe.org/index.php
Reply With Quote
11-11-2008, 21:44 #3
n0rm
Banned
Join Date
Mar 2006
Posts
3,099
Re: Volvo 1.7 Turbo Mods
heres an interesting read ive bookmarked from RTOC mate, there are a few pointers that may indeed help you along the way
1.7 turbo conversion
WHAT ENGINE?
Instead of buying those awful 1.7 renault engines and trying to put a turbo on them you should resort to something else - volvo 1.7 turbo engine commonly found in volvo 440/460/480. Contrary to popular belief, stated on various R5GTT boards, this is a RENAULT engine, you can actually find Renault markings on the block, which is absolutely identical to any F type engine Renault makes (those are 1.7 L in R5 GTE/GTX or other renaults, as a mater of fact 1.8/2.0 16V is also a F block). What was added in volvo is some low compression pistons, Garrett T2 (yes a T2!) turbo, and a complete set of trick Bosch LH jetronic fuel/ignition management. What is trick about it is the fact that it incorporates boost control but more about it later.
The engine develops only 120 HP, but that is with very little boost, probably 0.4 bar, and with a very restrictive cat/exhaust.
BUYING
Ok, the engines in 440/460/480 turbos are identical, and I suggest you find the best you can. If you are in a position to buy a good one from a 440 then I suggest you buy the gearbox too. The reason is simple, 440, in contrary to other 4xx volvos, and R5GTT, has a different gearing, which will not give you any more top speed, but the gears are stacked together a bit more, and 5th is a direct 1:1, which is much better if you like to drive fast somewhere else than on the motorway.
I actually bought both a gearbox and the engine from a 440 and can say that the box is a straight swap for a GTT one, while I somehow find the changing action much better, more precise.
Electronics
When buying make SURE that you get all the electronics, since there are two boxes, one for the fuel, other for the ignition. The ignition box has a small pipe to which vacuum/pressure from the intake manifold is connected.
The wiring loom usually looks like a a big tangled bunch of wires, something that no one can manage, but in reality it consists of 3 sets of wires, which are connected together by some plastic clips:
1. Wires for the lights and indicators - to be separated and thrown away
2. Bosch fuel/ignition wiring loom. Can be identified by two big connectors for the ECU's. Take it out carefully. It also has a bunch of relays which control the fuel pump and ignition.
3. Special wiring loom which is used for the turbo/injector cooling. Now, like GTT, a volvo turbo engine also has a fan which blows air onto the fuel injectors, but it also has a water pump that circulates water through the turbo, even when the engine is shut off (similar pump can be found on R19/Clio 16V). Those are controlled by two (or is it three?) sensors, which you can find under the turbo (on the water line), and screwed to the intake manifold. I took this off and threw it away, did the same thing with the water pump. The pump gives you an added bit of protection, but only if you are stupid enough to shut the engine off immediately after a hard run.
Exhaust
Apart from the exhaust manifold with the turbo attached, which I presume you will take with the engine, you should also take the turbo downpipe, which fits neatly in the GTT with no modifications, and is made to a much higher standard than anything you (or any "tuner") can make. It is also pretty hefty in diameter. If you want you can also take the catalytic converter, which hosts the lambda sensor.
I took the cat, but used a drill to take out the ceramic catalytic converter inside, so I ended with a empty box.
Intake
Make SURE, and I can not stress this enough, to get the airflow sensor. It is a hot wire type, and probably costs more new than you will pay for the whole engine. It is worth checking if the wire is broken, since it can happen, especially if the car was damaged in an frontal accident. Also worth checking is the rubber flexible pipe going from the sensor to the turbo, if broken it will give you headache. Mine was completely destroyed and I had to improvise. It also houses an recirculating type dump valve.
Misc
It is highly unusual to find an engine complete with the intercooler, since it will probably be damaged in the accident, but try to get as many coolant/intercooler hoses as possible, since you will find them useful later.
Ok, you just bought the engine, what is next?
Checking it out
First, open the cam belt cover and examine it or replace. F type engines have, besides the cam, oil pump driven from the belt also. Just above the pump drive you will find a 1/4 inch oil line going under the exhaust manifold to the turbo. This can sometimes crack also. I had to replace mine and did so with the engine in the car which was a pain. Do not buy the original item, but have it made out of a braided flexible teflon hose... much better.
WHAT TO MODIFY
Tuning
Ok, I guess you are not satisfied with 120 horses, so do something about it.
First of all, you do not need the CAT. You can just bolt it off or do what I did and drill the ceramic core out of it. The CAT also houses the lambda sensor, which you can just plug out (it will increase the consumption somewhat but will improve power/driveability). I kept the sensor, but just plug it in when I need to go to MOT.
volvo engine has a very weak wastegate, which is connected to the turbo housing by a little silicone line. On it, you will also find a little electromagnetic valve. This valve is used by ECU to control the boost. I did the following and am suggesting you to do the same: remove the boost control, and change the wastegate. You can not use the one found on the GTT, since there the turbo is turned the other way round, but should buy a normal T25 wastegate. I took mine from a big T25/32 turbo that I am using for my 1.8 16V. I have mine adjusted to 0.6 - 0.8 bar, which might not sound like much but is plenty.
One of the major problems with this volvo engine is that the ignition controler also has an overboost switch. Unlike the GTT, on which it was possible just to plug it out, on the volvo you can not tamper with it. The result is that with this ECU it is not possible to go above 0.9-1 bar.
T2 turbo on 1.7 engine is a bit small, I admit. It is actually a bit bigger than your standard T2 turbo found on the GTT. Tuners would probably call it a STAGE 1 hybrid . If you like your power immediately, and available from low on the rev range, the standard turbo is your best bet. I could see a bigger (T25) one... but I would have to change the electronics to cope with the increased boost. I am not thinking of that, since I have a 1.8 16V turbo waiting to go in.
PUTTING IT IN
Engine mounts
Ok folks, it might say volvo on the intake manifold but it is a normal Renault F type engine. So, the gearbox engine mounts fit, you just need to change the one engine mount that is found on the block. You need the complete mount, not just the rubber, since the metal part that bolts onto the block has a different bolt pattern.
If you want to use your old GTT gearbox you will have no problems, bolting pattern between the GTT engine and a F type one are very similar, and the GTT box has holes for both types. The only thing to chnage is a little metal guide, usually found pressed in the gearbox, around the bolt, near the right driveshaft. You just need to pull it out and place it in the hole nearby. Do not worry, you will see it.
Exhaust
As I said before. Make sure you get the downpipe. You can use it with or without the CAT body, you just need to have someone connect the exhaust. You can use your old GTT one or make a new one. Modifying the GTT one is a 10 minute job at your exhaust specialist nearby.
Do not use an restrictive exhaust. Standard R5GTT one is no good and will rob you of power. Aftermarket ones are ok for the most part.
I first made a side exit one, no silencers, and that one was FUN FUN FUN, but just too loud. Now I use a straight through pipe, 2 inch dia. with no silencers, which exits in the normal position. It is also a bit loud but much better than the side exit one.
Oil cooler
volvo engine uses a sandwich type oil cooler, with the engine coolant water passing trough. This is no good for two reasons: First, it does not do a very good job, and more importantly, the filter sits too high on the block and interferes with the radiator fan. For a while I actually could not install the fan...
I did the following: Use the block that is used on the standard GTT 1400 engine, mounted under the oil filter. It will fit the volvo engine perfectly. Either run the oil through the radiator like on the standard car, or install an external cooler (what I did). I like the cooler found on Opel (vauxhall) Kadett/Astra.
Engine cooling
First of all, remove that stupid electric water pump that you will find on the volvo engine. I is a nice idea but just complicates things. Also remove its wiring loom.
Connect the turbo to one of the water jackets coming out of the head. Water exiting the turbo should run directly to the pump. There is a large metal pipe running around the block in front. It also collects the water from the cabin heater. Do not worry about this, there are plenty of places to connect this.
Top cooling hose, going from the head to the cooler is not a problem, it is straight and not a problem to connect. The hose going to the pump is another story...
F type engines have their water pump positioned lower down on the block, and the pump intake is facing toward the gearbox, instead down as found on the standard 1.4 turbo engine (C type engine).
Additional complication for me, was the fact that I was using a R5 Diesel radiator which itself is much bigger than the standard item, and together with the intercooler covers the whole cars' front.
What I did is find a Renault 25 radiator, which has both intake and radiator exit positioned on the same side. I had to modify it, so that I can turn it upside down, so that the intake/exit sits closer to the gearbox. This gave me a direct line from the head to rad, and a nice, almost straight line, with only one L bend for the lower line. This was by far the biggest modification I had to make to make this engine work.
Intercooler
Now, I have not seen the original volvo intercooler, since it was damaged too much, so I can not speculate, but I used a normal GTT intercooler. I removed the thermo flap long before. Connecting the turbo and engine intake with the intercooler is best left to your creativity, I used a combination of Volvo and Renault hoses, and some pipes I made myself. One thing to watch out for is the first little silicone elbow used by Volvo on the turbine exit. It is a "samco" type rubber, and should definitely be used. Just make sure, with the engine out, that it is properly connected and use a strong clip so that it will not fall off. It is a pain to mount later on, and is difficult to identify a leak there.
This is about it... If you haven't taken your engine out before, let me remind you that this is best done by removing the front subframe. I actually changed the whole engine myself, with basic tools and some improvised lifting jack used lift the engine off the subframe. It took me a two days to exchange the engine, two more weeks to connect everything.... Not a big job if you have time.
What to expect
Ok, let me put it in this way: 0.6-0.7 bar boost, straight through exhaust, no air filter yet, The car spins its wheels through 1, 2, and if the roads are dirty, even 3rd. This is on A520 Yokohamas, 195/45 15. I did some acceleration tests, and while spinning wheels prevent me from posting a good 0-60 time, in high speed acceleration (50-70 and above) it is faster than Civic Type R (old 190 HP one) I could outrun Accord Type R's without problems. Even on standard gearbox, it will do 140 mph, and will get there VERY quickly. On one occasion, at that speed my rear spoiler flew off.
Best of all, I must have spent 600 pounds at most for the whole conversion.
if you ever need any in depth tuning advise just PM me mate, i had a highly tuned 480 lump in my RWD/mid engined R5GTT
Mine ;)
Picking the lump up tomorrow off Marky mark :) looking forward to some injection in my 5 no more looking at the gauges every second :eek: looking forward to some b18ft fun..
Yeah right! That'll never happen!Quote:
Originally Posted by Nottswoody
Well I run 23psi on my daily 1.4 c1j so I'm always on the edge and paranoid. At least with a 1.7 and about 15-18psi I shouldn't be pushing it as hard plus no more carb issues. But in three yrs iv had the t2 the t25 the t28 cammed not cammed built and rebuilt engines I'm bored and need a change from the c1j so I will try the b18 and when I'm bored of that who knows :) I'm more about the build always liked my jigsaws as a kid this is just another.
Paul your a c1j judas
Iv served my time with the c1j iv driven it daily for 3yrs time for a change. :pQuote:
Originally Posted by Red October
The b18 is a great engine but don't expect it to be more reliable than a c1j. I could quite happily take an axe to mine at the moment while trying to figure out why it's not running right. 1bar is the most you want to run on a t2 turbo after having the scoff mod done on your ecu. Anything above this will start pinking but a bar should see 160-170 horses.
I've got a t28 on a tubular manifold, Saab red injectors, ep cam and after fitting adaptronic I'd like to see 230bhp at a safe boost pressure 18-19psi hopefully.
Ross
Oh bugger :scratch: I think I would still be happy with 170bhpQuote:
Originally Posted by Slammed 66
T2 on mine, 1 bar and the car made 170hp 240torque :)
So pulls well with the t2 then? I'm really looking forward to the change and the torque figures seem very wellQuote:
Originally Posted by philg
So much so, that the spare t25/28 I have, has sat in the garage for 2 years :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Nottswoody
Dam I just sold a mint one.. T2s are easier to get should I need one but I'm hoping by turning the boost down it will last me longer than at 23psi :)Quote:
Originally Posted by philg
Haz' car had a big t28 on it, wasn't massively laggy and went like **** off a shovel. T2 way to small imo
Bollicks, it all depends what your using it for. Yeah 1/4, or motorway blasts yeah ok. For the track, mine spools so fast and has loads of torque to pull you out of a corner. Lets face it your lucky if you can find a uk track with a straight that you can get much over 100 mph.Quote:
Originally Posted by GT Josh
so you have tried a bigger turbo to compare then??
Dudes I'm going to my local factors for plugs leads dizzy and arm and a thermostat..
What year should I say? Volvo 480 turbo G plate? Is that the one?
££70 for parts not too bad happy with that so far :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Nottswoody
Right 5s off the road time to get the b18 in.. Don't expect quick progress as the mrs is having a hard pregnancy and I work long shifts.. I now have all the parts needed with thanks to Marky mark and eBay :)
Question..
Is the biggest restriction the ecu? And what's all this stand alone stuff?
What I have is my t28
B18 engine with n/a cam
Lightened flywheel
My box
Green box clutch
T5 injectors & standard to get it up running
New alloy rad (china special but looks good)
And a few other bits in the pipe line.
What else could I do..
As in the film
I want the world and everything init!!
Ideas? Pros cons of the b18..
:coffee:
Suppose I'd better get this started then its been off te road two weeks but I haven't done anything. (Mrs is in and out of hospital) better crack on.. Got two hrs to myself as the mums got my lil one..
Thinking of painting my bay.. Would a run down then primer then rattle cans do the job? Obviously taking my time.. If china can doit surely I can I'm not after a show finish. What should I buy?
You could use halfords cans or something but it will be soft and wont last very long, I did it this way before it's worth using better paint if poss, something that will be harder. Next time I will use 2k paint
Well just the engine mounts todo then she's out.. Suprisingly quick when your leavin everything on.. Out of time now so will be another day.. Noticed the t28 front has movement I am having it rebuilt anyway but is that the seals?
I might just stone chip the bay or is that too gash :)
I Stonechipped my bay, got carried away after doing everything else but even though its paintable I want to flat it back now but can't see it being a nice job really.Quote:
Originally Posted by Nottswoody
Depends what your looking to achieve from the bay? If its show and having it looking great then stonechop probably isnt for you lol
Not for show bud.. Mines just all scratched up.. I'm not for bonnet popping but while the engines out I though I might aswell do something with it.. Too tight to have it sprayed..Quote:
Originally Posted by 45_CB
You could chip it which would be nice and easy then paint it after if you cant be arsed to prep the bay lol. But it would look like an inner wheel arch after
I sprayed mine myself mate do you have a compressor ? I wouldn't use stone chip personally
I can live with that :) its my daily so no point trying to be shiny.. Just want it to hide the scratches there's no rust just scratched up through the yrs.. Stonechip it is.. ThanksQuote:
Originally Posted by 45_CB
No bud nothing like that.. The 5s staying with me so I'm happy with the stone chip.. After all it won't make it go faster :)Quote:
Originally Posted by chris
So dudes while taking the bumper off iv noticed the part were the bolt holds the bumper is completely shot.. Can I buy this panel? Or is it make one up? It's actually flapping in the wind lol so while I'm doing the engine I want this doing. Or had anyone got one?gg
You can buy them mate quite easy to make also :agree:
Week off starts tomorrow.. C1j out and b18 in :) cutting here chopping there and lots of new stuff.. Been waiting for this for months.. Told the mrs just man time this week before new baby arrives..
Im starting mine at the begging of next month, so will be seeing how you get on with a watchful eye. Let us know how you get on.
I also have a b18 project that needs finishing but have to get my garage floor finished first. So hopefully couple weeks we can compare notes!:)
No probs guys I will update as much as i can I see no issues getting it in so far it will be the pipes and wireing that I need help with but I'm lucky to have a very good friend :) my main worry is getting my t28 rebuilt by east midland turbos.. Well if they will that is.. Everything else I think I have now. Just waiting on the postie to bring more treats.. I will break its back this week but I don't think I will finish it as I need a little bit of welding on my inner wing and cross member is coming out for a very very large ic lol also going to re do all my breaks as well.. Re lower the front and valet all the interior aswell.. Just a bit to do. Can't wait
So yesterday I started the b18 conversion.. C1j came out easily 2.5hrs this time :) engine swoops a dam sight easier than engine build lol..
So I sent my t28 off to midland turbos and they said its a cossie front and 200sx rear and won't know if they can rebuild it till they open it up.. Thankfully the movement was up and down but not in and out so hopefully it won't be to messed up in there.. But that's what you get running 23psi on your daily driver :) they said it could be from £180-£360 if knackerd.. I will find out today..
Next I swopped my green box clutch to the b18 as its only 6months old..
Then I found out that you need to take all the dowls out of the 5 gearbox and remove the dowls out of the b18 block as they don't match but the bolt holes do.. When fitting the gearbox take the tdc sensor off as it clashed with the water pipe on the block.. To get the tdc guard back on you will need to modify it a Little by grinding the holes away and keeping just a little of metal for the bolts to grip and hold.. I took off about 5mm and now fits nice.. Also I need to modify the flywheel guard as that dosnt fit nice but you will see what needs doing.
Everything else fits a treat so far..
Today will be chopping out the cross member for a massive ic thanks to Marky mark.. And then remove all the c1j parts out the bay. Aei and fpr etc etc rub the paint work down and a fellow member thundercat will be helping me today :) we need to have the ic fitted by the end of the day to progress with things. So far no real headaches.. Will save pictures for last. Or load them up on rtoc fb page..
Tell you what though my backs getting to old for this lifting engine **** lol I only have scaffold A frame so its bloody annoying having to keep putting wheels back on and lowering and pushing the car out the way on your own..
So today we cut out the cross member took out all the none needed items out te bay.. Got my turbo rebuilt from midland turbo for £318 which stung but needed doing. Tomorrow some welding needed for brackets to hold the huge ic in place. Then paint the engine bay.. If I get that done tomorrow me and thundercat will be happy.
All going well so far..
Sounds like good progress any pics :-)
sounds like your getting on well mate, are using ta gtx engine mountt or drilling out the standard one?
I only have the iPhone to upload and my photo bucket is locked.. I will do them towards the end of the week.. Im too poor for a pc/laptop and the mrs says I will just watch porn anyway..Quote:
Originally Posted by James5
From what I can see this block came off of a 5 so on the right hand bolt hole there's about 3 washes to space it.. I'm guessing its moved the angle so a standard mount will fit I'm hoping to have it in by the end of the week so will let you know if that works..Quote:
Originally Posted by Benjibrady
Guys what you think to rubbing the bay down with 800 grit then prima then red hammarite? Got to be worth a go? Works well on my rads in the house.. Not red obviously :) it's not like your going to see a lot of it anyway..
800 will be far to fine for primer, is it rattle can primer or proper stuff?
Anything that comes out of wickes this morning :) so just really rough paper then prima then smooth then paint? Never done this reallyQuote:
Originally Posted by rs250nut
If its rattle can primer I would use 240-320, let it go off over night unless you can bake it, then flat that for top coat with 800 wet.
Good progress and advice :)
I spaced the engine mount out abit so it was little bit easier to to put the bottom rad water hose on, with the gt mount in place that gets abit tight ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by Nottswoody
That makes sense as that was the last thing I looked at today and said the same it's going to be tight there..Quote:
Originally Posted by Markey Mark (BD)
Well the ic and rad are now fitted thanks to thundercat a true gent doing it for me cut the panel out welded new brackets on to hold the huge ic on.. You can now stand onit and it wouldn't budge.. It's back in my hands now tomorrow I will paint the bay hopefully if all is well as the mrs is back in hospital. Picking up my t28 tomorrow from East Midlands turbos so will see what type of work they have done but I'm confidant it will be mint as there pretty big compony now and 5 mins up the road.. Ended up costing a pretty penny but i hope it will be worth it.. Pictures are on rtoc fb group as I can't put them on here yet. Thundercat drilled my wings to fit my ic pipes through.. Need to get the engine in by Monday as I'm back to work Tuesday.. But we will see as I will be out with my daughter this weekend. Family First :)
Things coming on nicely just need to work all the angles and lengths of the pipe work and order them from a site called 800bhp very good service and fast delivery..
Again thanks to thundercat I wouldn't of been able to do this without his help..
http://www.midlandturbo.com/
This who iv used as you can see there well established.. I'm guessing the two year gaurentee won't apply to me lol but I will ask see what they say..
Free next day delivery. Took two days for my turbo. I will pick it up today an see how good it is..
So I just got back from these guys and my t28 is now mint.. £318 full rebuild with 360 bearing etc etc blah blah..Quote:
Originally Posted by Nottswoody
Anyway so I asked will the 2yr warranty stick and he said yes they will pick it up from your house no matter were you are but and there's always a but if they can't fix it ie blown to bits there's a charge..
I asked what type of turbos will you do and they said if its been built they can recon any turbo out there.
I noticed they marked the actuator and he said if that's broken warranty void so I will just bleed it.
Top service great place well recomended..
Obviously I have to fit it first. Included was all new studs gaskets etc
Well chuffed..
:D
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nottswoody
i had a skoda diesel turbo for my cab from here many moons ago and it lasted longer than the oe mate:laugh:
I give up trying to put bloody pics up. I can load them to my profile but not on my thread.. It let me do one link and now it won't doit.. For those intersted its the first 6 I think.. Or can someone put them up there?
No work being done till Monday now back to a couple of hrs a day..
http://i1066.photobucket.com/albums/...pseaa502bc.jpg
http://i1066.photobucket.com/albums/...ps9d65e572.jpg
http://i1066.photobucket.com/albums/...ps5bd81bb4.jpg
http://i1066.photobucket.com/albums/...ps44287a03.jpg
http://i1066.photobucket.com/albums/...ps24605f51.jpg
http://i1066.photobucket.com/albums/...psed362609.jpg
http://i1066.photobucket.com/albums/...ps8fa9821d.jpg
http://i1066.photobucket.com/albums/...ps0f6b12cc.jpg
Shame you didn't get a big intercooler:D is there no structual loss when cutting the cross member off? Looking good though. Just a quick one what happened to the c1j engine then? When's the f7p conversion happening:cooter:
We will be bracing the crossmember with a beam later but all the weight is on the subframe really anyways.. The c1j is in my garage with all the parts to put it back should I want to.. And f7p will be next year probably. I get bored very easily as you know.
Just for clarity I only removed the c1j because of oil leaks and I didn't see the point fixing those putting it back in to be the same so I thought I'd try some efi first on the b18.. F7p is just way out my price range at the min.. (2nd child on the way) but maybe next year sell te c1j and parts and the b18 and parts that might put me on the way to f7p or any other conversion that maybe out there by then.. Personally I think I would of had my fill by then. Two kids and a 5 don't really mix..
Well not a very successful day today painted my bay black today so couldn't do anything in there. Found that I need a new oil feed for my turbo as for the Volvo lump the end is a lot further away than the c1j so a trip to pertec in the morning.. Then hopefully get this lump I tomorrow once iv bolted the turbo down and got the oil feed on as it looks a pig to do when in the car. And I'm on the phone to Cgb that have took the piss with a delivery.
Apart from that the mrs is back out of hospital for now and baby is ok so that's all that really matters.
Looking good mate nearly there
Someone call the POLICE I just got robbed by pertec lol £57 for a braided oil feed.. But atleast I can crack on and get the turbo fitted then hopefully her the engine in today.. Back to work tomorrow
Well engines in. I want to thank thundercat and Marky mark for all there advice and help I nearly made a big mistake not turning the turbo housing round that would of been a bitch I was just putting the engine in when they noticed on a fb photo I had done earlier. The back mount was a bit of a bitch and out of line but with a couple of hammers from underneath it went in.. That's it now back to work tomorrow I will only get a couple of hrs at a time now so god knows how long this will take now.. Since I will have to bike to work everyday that will be my motivation.. All good fun so far only a couple of snags but nothing I can't handle..
Beautiful! Now wire it up and off ya go;)
:rant:
******* 5 lol 12hr shifts are not helping too tired to do anything the small Jobs seem Tito be taking for ever.. I didn't read or listen to peeps that said I ha to move the dowl in the gearbox for the starter motor otherwise it will grind so that was a ******* to get off but got there in the end but I still don't see how it will help a it just seems the same to me.. Then I had a **** time trying to fit my exchaust as it was solid and needed twisting to get it to fit.. Smashed my face with a bloody spanner lol while under there.. Cross threaded my gearbox thread for the driveshaft so had to get that sorted.. But I'm getting there slowly pity works so busy at the min but I really need the OT at the min.. Apart from that were golden :):)
Quick question to all you b18ers dose the main fuel line go to the fuel pressure reg and the other to the opposite on the fuel rail? Iv only got an hr to play today.. I'm guessing that's the way they go? Cheers
Quick update. Got the starter going and lights on the dash through the 5s wiring loom thanks to thundercat aka mr smith :) new driveshafts fitted gearbox oil is in. The Volvo loom is in place and just needs connecting to everything. Petrol pipe connected and brake servo to.. Started work on all the water pipes which was easy Enough with c1j hoses and used a Saab main water pipe from the thermostat to rad fit perfect.. Boost hoses are fitted from ic upto turbo but waiting on parts from throttle body to ic I can't get a tight enough 180 pipe so far.. Getting there though.. All good fun so far :)
Just re noticed this 240 torque that sounds fun :agree:Quote:
Originally Posted by philg
Have you started yours yet bud?Quote:
Originally Posted by V Man
Have you started yours yet bud?Quote:
Originally Posted by Benjibrady
Na. But I took the day off today and began the run of a 10mm electric Cable to the garage so when the blooming floor is in the welder and grinder will be ready at hand. Just waiting for the farmer next door to shift the earth I dug out before concrete goes in.Quote:
Originally Posted by Nottswoody
Then its tinker time and time to squeeze as many horses as possible out the bad lad.:agree:
Nearly there all piped up just no time still.. So looking forward to getting this back on. The ground.. Good thing though I'm back on my bike lol so loosing some bellie :)
Things todo..
Tap into c1j loom place the ecu in the bulk head strut brace back on..
Shocks back on then wheels.
Then jack up the back change the fuel pump and put new calipers on the back and were good to go.. Happy happy happy.
And all before the mrs drops the baby lol.
Sorry OE guys had to chop te **** out of the bumper.. The bonnet was fun fitting also.. Onwards and upwards.. On a good not though all mods declared.. £264 new insurance quote.. Happy happy happy..
How's this for a pisstake.. My insurance is due on the 1st from Adrian flux quoted £624 so shopped around and flux direct (same compony) says £216 all mods blah blah comprehensive and able to drive others. Then another compony I used to be with called brentacre phones and I said waisting your time bud your not going to beet them.. £198 same deal.. Insurance company's are a joke.. £3000 classic car and 3000miles just shows it pays to shop..
So she's back on the floor and on all four wheels :) but something I didn't take into consideration was clearance of my boost pipes through the wing to the wheels :ashamed: so iv changed the piping arrangement and we have about an inch clearance :confused: I hope that's enough travel lol or I'm buggerd lol I can't move it any more without re welding the wings and cutting again apart from that she's all good and thundercat (Mr smith) will be finishing the wireing off real soon..
Left todo is
Oil filter
New rear calipers
Fuel pump
Wireing
Water and oil
And start her up :)
An hr here n there is all I get so not doing bad but babies imminent :dearme: running out of time..
Pads done
Handbrake cable done
Underseal done..
Fuel pump tomorrow
Oil filter then fill her up with oil
Fill her with water and coolant
90% there :)
It's now a race till Monday to get this finished :D
I'd say I'm 96% there just a few ends to tie up but out of time :( on the other hand baby is out tomorrow :) thanks to thundercat for giving me his expert help on this build and info and parts from Marky mark.. Soon as I get some spare time I will finish it off.. Very tight spots in the bay especially that bottom hose was a ******* lol all because I wanted a huge ic lol.. I have to take the alternator off then the oil filter just to get at it.. Then you can just about get one click on the wrench. Apart from that happy so far..
Where abouts did you feed the wiring around the engine bud as mine is looking a bloody mess at the moment :disagree:
Mine is chopped to the beAr bone.. I've chopped it into the r5 loon and round the r5 drivers wing then across the strutt nrace then choped into the aei hole into the batterie hole all ecus are in there nice n tidyQuote:
Originally Posted by Benjibrady
If you get a second could you stick a picture up? Mine is looking very scruffy at the moment. Was going to stick the ecus inside the car as I have my power steering pump where the battery used to go. Tbf I haven't taken the loom about so it's a very thick bunch of wires atm.
Really thinking about just going for it and forking out for standalone.. Anyone got all the results on a b18 with t28? I can see the bonus getting smashed :) go!!!
These cars go moldy quick :( I went in the garage for the first time in 5weeks and the seats and steering wheel have gone white.. Think she's trying to tell me something..
How's it driving? Have you managed a good run out yet.....you've got the injectors , turbo, cam and intercooler so shouldn't you just need an unrestricted ecu and a maf bypass hole and get a 200+ bhp??
Hi bud.. I haven't had it running yet as we had our 2nd child 8 weeks ago so I have other priorities at the mo.. But I will get back in the garage soon I really am starting to miss the old gal.. But yes your right I have all the gear to hopefully be hitting 200+ I'm saving for standalone at the min and then let scoff do his magic with her but that's a while a way at the mo.. I'm in a predicament at the min :) engagement ring for the woman I love or standalone sooner lol.. I really need and want both :crap: just waiting to see what my bonus is like this month..Quote:
Originally Posted by V Man
I would hang fire on the stand alone and have a crack at bypass and standard ecu. Tim who recently broke his b18 was nigh on 230 bhp on standard ecu.....Quote:
Originally Posted by Nottswoody
What and why did it break bud?Quote:
Originally Posted by V Man
I think he said it was head gasket maybe? Not sure.look on YouTube for b18 Regy5gt and you'll see it on rollers at scoffs. Same setup ad you making 230bhp on standard ecu.
Nipped in the garage for a spare hr I had.. Few qs for you..
Should the main fuel feed go to the regulator or to the beginning of the rail? At the min I have it to the fuel reg??
Also were should the earth from the dizzy go to? I haven't got one (read in a post it needs one?)
Also I can't hear the pump go when cranking but it dose when I bridge it to live.
Cheers guys I'm no sparky
Should the main fuel feed go to the regulator or to the beginning of the rail? At the min I have it to the fuel reg?? Yeah to the fuel regulator
Also were should the earth from the dizzy go to? I haven't got one (read in a post it needs one?) somewhere on the chassis, should be a thin brown wire coming off the part of the loom that plugs into the coil
Also I can't hear the pump go when cranking but it dose when I bridge it to live.
Double check that you've soldered to the correct yellow ignition? Seems to be a common problem. Also, I know it sounds stupid, but check all the fuse and relays around the pick connector block as that's what it was one mine didn't turn over ;)
Quickly swopped the fuel lines tonight batteries in charge for the morning. Let's see if that sorts it out :ashamed: hopefully get an hr free on it tomorrow..
Fingers crossed buddy, well overdue being fired up!
fuel feed should go to end of rail, reg is the return.
dizzy earth is just a small engine earth, so long as you have a decent engine earth its fine. the borwn earth by the coil is the earth for the coil.
i guess if the fuel pump isnt priming then it could be the switched ign live for the ecu's could be on the wrong ign live, wants to be on one thats on 2nd click. also are the ecu's matched with loom, later versions have an extra live.
if the fuel pump will run when bridged then thats ok and the fault is somewhere else.
She's alive!!!!! :yeah:
Well done matey, I've not followed this build as much as the c1j one so forgive me for asking is this nearly finished and ready for the road.
Bar putting the car on the floor and re flushing it out.. Cleaning it taxing it she's good to go :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Nad-5GTT
What happens then is anyone's guess. But she ran fine for a good hour revved the nutts off it an it flutterd the turbo so hopefully were all good. Fuels abut all over the place but I will know more when I get it out there.. But again back to family life so she can stay In the garage for another couple of weeks..
Ha a lot of help from great members and I thank you all..
Go woody! Well done:)
Now...get boostin and report back
It's not taxed bud or I would of been out already.. Few other things I want doing now only little things but no rush... Main thing it's running and thank you to all that helped. Won't be driven till pay day at least..Quote:
Originally Posted by V Man
Great work. This was a big undertaking. Let us know how it goes on the road. :)
As you say above, the club's done you proud here :agree:
So went for the first run with the b18 and it was all :agree: much better pick up think I'm running about ten psi on a t28 with standard ecu.. Picks up really well but too much traffic so iv filled up and waiting till later to go and see what's really going on..
Cool. So pretty lively with a t28 then. What sort of rpm is the turbs spoiling?
Will be interested to hear how it goes on a funt out.:agree:
Monster ;) 1st spin 2nd spin 3rd spin then grips and pulls and pulls some more. Instant tourque steer very happy boy today.. Few things to do still as always.. Tomorrow cleaning all day and need to sort the knocking back box out.. Apart from that happy happy happy :) so far I'm glad I chose to doit..Quote:
Originally Posted by V Man
well done mate, id love to know how different the T28 runs with the b18ft engine, I take my missus to see her friend in derby occasionally. will try and hook up with you next time im down. :agree:
Like the sound of that. I will have the same setup as you so looking forward to it.:smokin:Quote:
Originally Posted by Nottswoody
I spent a couple of hrs out on the roads and I'm more than happy there when you want it and a nice drive if you don't. Afrs are good and so much more stable than with the carb. Early days and all that but I hope it will be fun for a while. It's definatley heavier front end when cornering and I can't imagine my tyres are going to last long on track. Pulling out of the Islands was fun.. And typically I didn't see one sports motor to play with lol.. As above I'm very happy with b18 so far..Quote:
Originally Posted by V Man
Right then guys... Hit my first hurdle went out friday and it ran like a dream.. Now wont start at all.. Checked everything all pipes all hoses everything is new getting fuel got compression and spark but still wont start.. Arfter many hrs mucking around i can only think the spark isnt strong enough to fire her up.. Now should the spark be blue? As mine is a light orange if that makes sense? Whats the correct term for the coil? Im looking on ebay but nothings coming up.. The unit were the king lead comes off im thinking that might be on its way out.. Anyone got a part number? Cheers its bugging the crap outa me as it ran so well friday..
Is the battery fully charged? is the fuel pump priming whilst cranking?
Hi hazQuote:
Originally Posted by Haz
Batterie is new and fully charged fuel pump is new and I can't hear the fuel pump when cranking as the chambers are full spark plugs are wet about four times iv checked. New relays. Even when I bridge it to get the pump working it still won't fire up and that's with the pump on all the time. Truly am puzzled with this one.. Will have another go later..
Fuel pump is wired in with injectors, so if that's not priming, they aren't working.
Chambers are full ?? Chances are the plugs have got wet while your bridging it.
Is the tacho fluttering during cranking?
Well I just tried again and your right it's no turning the pump on from the key if I touch a wire to the + and to the relay it starts the pump.. I just don't get how it worked fine for a couple of days but not now.. I didn't touch a thing.. Just put two more new relays in and still nothing.. Is it going to be me putting a switch to the pump? Thanks haz..Quote:
Originally Posted by Haz
Lots of items are linked in the loom, you've tested the pump is fine so the ecu isn't telling it to turn on.
Does the tacho flutter?
What's the tacho bud? What I did was take a plug out and turn it over and lots of fuel came out the plug hole and when it clears it self it tried to run :confused: put the plug back in it then seems to flood it's self again.. Even though I haven't heard the pump go.Quote:
Originally Posted by Haz
Tried bridging the pump and get it running but nothing.. It's hard to explain over here something's a miss and it's doing my head In :coffee:
Fact is I haven't a clue :cartman:
Tacho = rev counter (usually) :agree:
Ooooh right in that case it worked fine Friday and now it dosnt.. :coffee:Quote:
Originally Posted by Trevhib
I think Haz was saying, does the rev counter needle flutter (i.e. make tiny movements), while you're turning it over. :agree:
Not now guys.. So are we thinking crank sensor?Quote:
Originally Posted by Trevhib
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nottswoody
sounds like it:agree:
No way of testing these? I'm using the one off my old 5Quote:
Originally Posted by R5MJH
Well took it off looks ok cleaned it stuck it back on and now no spark at all :devil: will order one tomorrow.. I was getting used to bit pissing about with cars.. See what happens with a new one..Quote:
Originally Posted by Nottswoody
Just one thing is the volvo flywheel in the same place as in is it thicker? The reason I say this is I left the guard off this time dose it need to be spaced in any way? Or straight fit? Thanks for the help guys
Possibly the crank sensor, but if your getting a spark before then it should be ok, it should read around 250 ohms with a multimeter. The guard should go on after sensor then bolts in, so doesn't need spacing. Is it on correctly, wrong spacing could cause it not to work. Worth checking connectors esp where Volvo meets Renault too.
Which wire have you used for the tacho? Some use a direct from the coil neg, others the green wire in the main Volvo loom connector which is linked to injectors. I guess the latter with spark but no fuel.
Where is the Volvo switched live attached, thin grey or grey/white in same connector, should be to second click of ignition. Again should be ok if there's a spark.
Engine earth ok?
The only concern is that the fuel pump isn't priming but sounds like its flooding the engine. Unless its because your manually bridging the pump, that's normally due to blowing the outputs of the ecu, which leaves the injectors fully open.
Going to buy a multi meter today.. Looks like I'm going tobe needing one with this set up.. The plot thickens.. Thanks for all your help.. Again I really am no electric expert but I will have a look..Quote:
Originally Posted by Haz
Should have kept the carb :rolleyes: :)
**** the carb.. I was well happy with it Friday... Just a bit of teething issues as with any god dam motors :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Jonny5
Orderd a new sensor for £14 might aswell eliminate that out. Orderd some scuttle covers to hide the ecus..
See how we get on..
I really an shite at electrics but I got a meter I watched my you tube vid so now I'm a expert (not)
Right so iv tested
Batterie = 12.54
Ecu large 1 pin gets 12.53
Small ecu gets 12.39
Alternator gets at + 12.53
Relay = gets 12.50
Injector plug 0.62
All on 2nd click of the key..
Haven't tried turning it as I'm on my own..
What else guys?
That's about right as they are all kinda linked.
Timing ecu, black one, pin 5 and 6 should be live too. Check relay ecu's that you already have and check they are still live during cranking, albeit they will drop to around 10v
Yer sorry 5-6 was the same..Quote:
Originally Posted by Haz
What's my next step then haz? Should there be power at the loom side of the crank sensor? As there isn't or dose that happen at turn of the key?
That's right haz it dropped to 10vQuote:
Originally Posted by Haz
Sorry the crank sensor from loom reads 2.92 on the 2nd key is that right? Haven't tried turning it
Sound, so long as they all stay live during cranking they're good. Tdc sensor should only be during cranking, when the ecu see's the engine turning it should turn the fuel pump on.
Assume it's just that sensor then.
Did you check it's resistance, 200 ohm setting on meter.
2.92 even when cranking it.. I'm guessing that a wrong?Quote:
Originally Posted by Nottswoody
I have now and it says 0.28 so that's the same on 2nd key and crankingQuote:
Originally Posted by Haz
Ah, the decimal point just moves along for each meter setting, so would read 292, so not like its dead. Faulty wiring? Is the connector on loom and sensor still good, plug it into the loom and check resistance from the Volvo side of the loom, should read the same.
That's odd.. Connect them both together and it just says - ? No numbersQuote:
Originally Posted by Haz
This is starting to sound similar to the issues I had with my b18
Please tell me you've fixed it :sos:Quote:
Originally Posted by Slammed 66
Well, there's you fault. You got another sensor to try?
Orderd one this morning haz will be here tomorrow..Quote:
Originally Posted by Haz
Let's hope it is that nice easy fix :) if not back to the drawing board...
Thanks for everything it's much appreciated
Which Volvo loom do you have, 2 or 3 pin tdc connector? And are you bench testing the sensor or is it in position?
There wasn't a connector on there it's spades and it's fitted to the carQuote:
Originally Posted by Haz
And I have the orange ecu if that helps?Quote:
Originally Posted by Nottswoody
Haz did :niceone:Quote:
Originally Posted by Nottswoody
Spades can be problematic, better to just twist the wires for testing, solder in for permanent.
Don't think it matters which way round it's wired as the ecu should figure that out but should be red to yellow, black to white iirc.
Yours was a dodgy relay that was still clicking but not sending the power through wasnt it Ross? That was a head scratcher!
Well there are three wires close but only using two if that makes sense? As I say it worked awesome Friday I was chuffed with it and I'm sure the ecu is already unlocked as it flu with plenty of boost (gauge wasn't working) but if there's more to get out the car I'm scared as it was pretty mental as is.. But then again iv been driving a fiat for three months :)
That was it mate. Bloody thing still isn't running happy though so when the new engine is fitted and got some miles on it, I'm going for adaptronic.Quote:
Originally Posted by Haz
Alright guys it's not the crank sensor tried it this time and it's blown the fuel pump fuse?Quote:
Originally Posted by Slammed 66
Also at the fuel pump it's self positive reads 0.2 with the ignition at 2nd turn.. I can still hear both relays click at the key..Quote:
Originally Posted by Nottswoody
Did you try a new ignition coil.? Mine died on me intermittently ladt month it was a dodgy coil. Changed now all good.
All readings are ok from the coil bud..Quote:
Originally Posted by B18ftMOJO5
I think its something on the loom maybe even the ecu now.. Iv bridged it so the pump runs and this time the plugs were not wet..
Bridged it from the fuse box to sidetrack the fuel relay in the loom and that still didnt work..
Next step i think take all the loom out and strip it back.
Can i test the ecu in anyway? :brickwall:
Out of interest what coil did you get? I cant seem ti find a replacement the shop keeps showing me a differnt coil to the one i have.. Do you have a part number?
Well and truly baffeled
Be careful just bridging and bypassing unless your sure, you can damage the ecu.
It shouldn't blow the fuel pump unless the pump is faulty and sticking causing too much current draw. I think that is something your doing?
Fuel pump shouldn't go live until the timing ecu sees the engine spinning, then the relay is earthed via the ecu. So on the 2nd ign click only one relay should click.
Stripping the loom back is a pita, I wouldn't, testing continuity between connectors to ecu connector is easier.
So have you changed the tdc sensor?
Got it off ebay for £15 for a five gt. Try and find you the link runs lovely now.:)
Coil pack won't be off a gtt mojo, they have an aei unit.
Your right haz my bad i think it was for the volvo 1.7 engine
Coils don't tend to fail unless they have been bumped and got hairline cracks in the tip.
You can replace just the coil,
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-NGK-Ig...item4d0eb35238
This type works to but I wouldn't pay that! Just so you know what to look for.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Volvo-S70-...item5403990b87
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Meat-Doria...item2c79011f06
So long as the connector plugs in it will probably work, could be Renault, Volvo Saab etc.
Hi haz yes I changed the tdc sensor and no change.Quote:
Originally Posted by Haz
So then checking continuity iv watched yet another you tube "how to" what areas should I be checking all the plugs again? Icu/injectors/etc etc
If you have a Hayes you could test from the ecu connector pins to component pins but I can't see the loom being at fault.
the timing ecu goes live on ign second click, it stays live during cranking and should see the engine turning then turn on the fuel pump relay and that the pump, trigger the fuel ecu to turn on injectors, supply power to turn on the coil which should give the spark.
So if your getting a spark then timing ecu should see the engine moving so ecu, coil and tdc should be ok. If the plugs stay dry, the injectors arent opening or there may just be no fuel there. if earthing the relay to the fuel pump and getting the fuel around the system and after some cranking they are still dry, and getting a spark then it's possibly wiring between the ecu's, ecu and fuel pump relay, ecu to injectors or the main loom earth (coil pack and engine lifting eye ones). If you test continuity between all that and it's good then poss an ecu fault.
I do still feel the fault is not loom based though.
Could spark plug gap be a prob? They are new but I was just thinking iv been testing only one plug spark when cranking over
Not really unless too far open/closed, more so on boost/high revs.
Was just saying to haz mate, mine appears to have developed a very similar (if not the same problem) as yours, if I work anything out I'll let you know.
Just out of curiosity what was your afr's like?
Afrs were stable really bud.. Iv just tested a few things for continuity and got some very strange readings im just not sure if im doing it right.. Will look into it a bit better tomorow/sundayQuote:
Originally Posted by Benjibrady
I think it was 13s/14s on tick over and more 12s/13s running but leaned out on full boost
It dose sound the same as yours bud.. Bloody things but if i can get it to run aswell as the night i did have out init i will be happy
Your fueling sounds very similar to mine once I'd leaned off tick over.Quote:
Originally Posted by Nottswoody
I reckon we've missed something somewhere if I do find anything I'll let you know
:agree:Quote:
Originally Posted by Benjibrady
Lets have a few hrs looking at these wires.. Really wamt this runnig now :mad: want my mrs to have her car back and get the 5 as my daily again.. I hope it's something smallQuote:
Originally Posted by Nottswoody
I've had a read back through and what is worthy of note is that I also blew the fuse for the fuel pump a couple of weeks ago, replaced it and didn't think anything of it. Wonder if there is the potential for a voltage spike?
Nb: a couple weeks back my loom as stripped & everything cut out of it & couldn't see an problems so I don't think it's something to do with the loom.
I'm starting to think that possibly shorting the terminals on the pink connector has fried the ecu. I'm tempted to get another but it's not going to be for a while as unfortunately my cash flow is running thin.
Hi Paul.Had a reed through your thread but just incase i have miss read anything.Are you saying your getting fuel,good spark and compression but still wont start?
Pump works when bridged but still wouldn't startQuote:
Originally Posted by casper
I'm not getting a power signal to the injectors now at the plug all six females have no power signal..
I have power from inside the car of the old relay side I have power to the volvo relayQuote:
Originally Posted by Nottswoody
But why do both module relay and pump relay click at the same time when I turn the key to the second position? Is that right?
I'm now thinking the injectors haven't got power
Iv got an old rtoc write up I will get back in the warm and read up a bit
So I stripped back were the join is for the wires
On the 2nd turn of the key
Grey and red = have a reading of 0.6
Blue and brown = 0.69
Grey has 11.92
So grey n red are the fuel pump
Grey is run position
Blue and brown the rev counter?
Are they right?
Old relay, the fuel pump one? That should be bypassed connecting thick grey/red from fuel pump relay to white wire on gtt fuel pump, I just snip on o/s sill loom and join there.
I don't think the blue/brown needs connecting, I forget what it for, possibly join into starter wire, or ign live.
Both relays shouldn't click, all the red wires should be live, grey/red during cracking and running, green/yellow should be earthed via ecu.
If the ecu is faulty I think something electrically has damaged it so putting another on could result in the same. If the injectors are the wrong impedance that can cause the outputs to blow
Edit : brown/blue is rev counter signal from ecu.
I dont have the old relay in now i think thats were we took our power souce from that block in the dash were the old pump relay was.Quote:
Originally Posted by Haz
Are those readings ok haz?
Oh and the two relays are definatley clicking at the same time.
If i take the module one out then nothing
Puzzling :scratch:
its coming along nicely
Well that's not very helpfull now is it..Quote:
Originally Posted by jesus in the seat of a 5
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1206339214...84.m1423.l2649 that's was the coil I used.
glad shes up and running...sounds greatQuote:
Originally Posted by Nottswoody
Headache time with the b18 :mad: constantly running 10s on the Afrs :scratch: change the maf so it's not that standard injectors what could it be? Puzzled :coffee:
Too much fuel pressure is one possibility
The position of the MAF unit makes a difference too so maybe worth playing with different positions
It starts off fine 14s then straight to 10s then when you rev it it starts to cut out then back to 10s :scratch:Quote:
Originally Posted by Markey Mark (BD)
Moved the maf so it's closer to the turbo and instead of going to 14s it went to 13.7 then back to 10s? :scratch:Quote:
Originally Posted by Markey Mark (BD)
Ideally you want the MAF as far from the turbo as possible, as close to the front and as high up in the engine bay as possible too
Right now I just want to burn the dam thing. Had a bit of a wiring fault so I need to strip back the loom and check it all over that's going to be a mission and a half..
Right so far checked for leaks and found none
All boost hoses tight all clips tightened
New ecus as I fried the last ones with said electrical fault
So I may need a new loom anyone got a good one?
Some info missing on the thread, always helps with diagnostics ;)
I went over to lend a hand on Saturday whilst visting Ron. Quick look over and something wasnt right. Fuses were 30amps, they should be 10amp, and one had severely melted leaving the metal behind.
Upon opening the fuel ecu it smelt burnt out too.
The main Volvo loom around the alt had managed to work it's way onto the belt and cut into 5 wires, 2 being live others sensors. They weren't fused together although did need pulling apart. Seperated and taped them up.
Popped on a spare fuel ecu (and a modded timing ecu but won't effect fuelling) and fired up fine. Idles fine but rich.
Re plumbed the icv into the boost run instead of the intake pipe.
Adjusting throttle body idle jet doesn't do much.
There is a 70-50 reducer straight after the afm, I have suggested to fit the reducer onto the turbo and enlarge the existing run.
The problem is when blipping the throttle it will stutter and bogs as it richens up. Gradually rev it and its not so bad. Ecu is possibly relying on map only.
Similar whether afm is plugged or unplugged so would normally assume afm fault, but fuelling does differ.
Another afm has been tried with the same results.
I still feel the melted 30amp fuse will more than likely mean melted and possibly fused wires within the loom. Maybe not, but that's were I would start next since it ran ok prior to the above.
Thanks haz
Hard for me to write all that on my Phone..
Iv peeled back about a foot from the relay box and all looks ok so far I also peeled back cut a re joined the part were it caught the belt but still the same. Checked a bit of continuity from negative to the loom ecu parts and all had readings (what they mean I do not know but it made the noise) so I'm guessing they seem fine.. But iv given up tonight and tomorrow I'm going to take the loom off and strip it as haz has sergested.. I was only rushing as I couldn't be arsed to bike it but back on te bike I go..
Do you think I could of damaged the injectors? And would it be worth me putting that other rail I have on the car?
Continuity testing needs to be done properly with a manual. Sounds like your testing if each wire is connected to earth? You need to test point to point, ie ecu pin x to coil pin x.
Yes you may have damaged injectors and in that case yes change them, but if the loom fault is still there then you could damage them again, same for the ecu.
It's not a nice job but I say strip it, you can just change it but I like to make sure where the fault is and at least your only buying what you need ;)
Right then let's pull this loom out and have a look.. Not looking forward to this there's far too many wires..
So am I right in thinking I could thin the loom off all none needed wires?
It's not bad, just messy. Wd40 on a rag should clean the tape glue off the wires. The tough bit is where the extra wrap is where you have it coming through the bulkhead as it's got extra sticky blu tac in there (remember to sort that too or will become another problem).
If your unsure use cable ties every 6" or so to and at T off's to keep the loom simple for re wrapping.
Yes you can chop some out the loom, like test points and unused sensors, and shorten where required but I wouldn't advise it until it's back running as it should if your unsure which ones to cut anyway.
Well after a very messy night stripping the loom down I don't think it's that all the continuity seems to work out ok.. Next went to stripping the throttle body down to get at the throttle postion switch as it maybe suspect.. Also the water temp sensor is reading way off what it should be..
So new water sensor next try that then if not that throttle sensor if not that then a very big bonfire on my drive..
Bloody cars :brickwall:
If you have connected the volvo water sensor to the 5 gauge on the dash it will read alot higher than the C1J so don't worry about that too much, the engines do run alittle hoterQuote:
Originally Posted by Nottswoody
Trying to rack my brains too as to what it could be, strange how it ran sweet at the beginning then all of a sudden stopped
I'm surprised it's not the loom. You did check every inch of the loom visually, not just continuity test?
Mark I think he means the ecu temp sensor, front of the head. That needs to read correct, think the values are in Hayes. If it is way out that will cause it to over fuel of it thinks it too cold and cut out and not restart if thinks it's too hot. It would explain fueling and could be why it won't rev freely.
With the tps, it will run unplugged, just not as responsive, so if it's the same plugged in/out then I don't think it's that.
This is a very weird one, if it was running good prior to the wires on alt belt issue it is electrical, something blown?
Remind me, which wires were cut through? I know there were 2 ign lives so they were putting power to sensor signal wires, was it temp sensor/afm?
That's correct haz it was one of the wires to the temp sensor as you know I'm rubbish at explains the multi meter but the sensor read something like 900 when Hayes says it should read 22 or something like that so I'm guessing it's telling the ecu it's cold? As I mentioned it runs at 14.7 for 5secs ten will go down to 10-11 and stay there on the Afrs For £9 I will change it lucky enough gsf has the sensor..
Haz yes I fully stripped the loom bloody messy it was but glad I have done now as iv learnt a lot..
Ah thats cool Haz, thought he meant the dash gauge sensor ;)
Could be the setting on the multimeter as the settings just move the decimal point, testing the resistance could be 900, 90 or 9. Haynes will give a temp to check it at too. Either ways it's not what it should be.
The 5 secs delay will be the auto choke map, not sure which sensors it will use, but then as it changes it must be getting a duff reading.
Double check with Gsf, I think they only sell the temp gauge sensor.
So the old sensor = 9.47 omsQuote:
Originally Posted by Haz
New sensor reads 5.96 oms on the meter reading that looks like headphones :) it's the only way I can discernible it.. Anyone confirm anything? Haven't put it together yet.
What does Haynes say it should be and at what temp?
Are they both on the bench? Or is one still in the head? Cold coolant will give a different reading to one that's been sat in the house.
If they are side by side, get it in and give it a try ;)
Haven't got the Hayes my bud has.. Getting changed now to go see iv been looking on the net but dosnt tell me jack..Quote:
Originally Posted by Haz
:( nope not that back to the drawing boardQuote:
Originally Posted by Nottswoody
Haz/mark anybody :scared: iv noticed now re looking at the loom that the grey and red wire from the injector connector ha been joined to a green wire that isn't connected to the car at all now would that be an earth or dose it need power? Only just noticed it but I never had that connected in the first place :scratch: that grey and red hose to the fuel relay and then to the injectors I thinkQuote:
Originally Posted by Nottswoody
Quit for today iv tapped up every nick in the wires iv retapped all the joins that was in the loom iv checked every connection to all the loom plugs cleaned all sensor prongs and now gave up as it's bloody freezing.. Tomorrow spend an hour or so re wrapping up the loom then putting it all back in.. Tidy it all back up get it back to how it was and try her again.. If it's still the same I can only think of taking the injectors out :scratch: I don't know what else todo. :coffee:Quote:
Originally Posted by Nottswoody
Hope you get it sorted soon mate. Be worth it once its done.:smokin:
The green wire in the pink connector? Think that's for the Volvo clocks, mpg.
Will see if I can dig out the list of which pins to test and what the values should be.
The grey and red wire is to the old fuel pump rely that you saw in my car bud.. The green wire I spoke of has been solded to the grey wire in the loom but it was behind that hard plastic so I'm thinking it must of been original? I seriously can't visually see anything the matter anywhere. Only things left I can think of is manifold gaskets? But I think mark put new on I know the inlet has new gasget on or injectors.. :scratch:Quote:
Originally Posted by Haz
Cheers budQuote:
Originally Posted by B18ftMOJO5
Can you take a pic of where you mean on the loom, generally grey/red are live with ign, injectors go to green. It joins under the plastic and heads towards the relays, but not in the pink connector?
Have you checked the condition of all 4 plugs, if they all look the same then injectors should be ok, but you may have one that's worse.
While checking the loom did you also peel back the rubber boots on the connectors to check the wires/terminal are good too?
Yep and pushed them all in and did another beep test for continuity and they all read 6? I don't have an orange block it was an already alterd loom haz.. I have the grey n red defiantly going into the car and that grey and red go into the injector plug so I'm guessing your right it's a live for it..Quote:
Originally Posted by Haz
K, pretty sure it's the mpg wire then, doesn't need connecting but is live do make sure it's insulated.
Testing all the sensors has got to be next then, just need to find the details, laptop has been down a few weeks now :(
:scratch::( put it all back together and it's still exactly the same.. What's next? Injectors out? :scratch:
Well I found a cracked injector could that be the issue? Don't shoot me I'm grabbing at anything here but it's definatley split all across the nib of it.
Also I have some 850 t5 part number 0280150785 injectors I could put on will they be ok?
Another wasted weekend got abosulutley no we're
So next I can only think the fuel reg could be knackerd?
Any one got a fuel reg?
Well and truly stumped and bored of it now.. And I'm in bad books from the mrs AGAIN..
Right then new one.. Don't shoot me as I'm no electrition.. Toward the ecu plug the wires seem really rigid when you try to bend them.. Could this mean they are burnt? Same wire further down feel easy to bend. Perhaps it's nothing it's just a thought because I can't find f£)k all else
Was it not the injector(s) then :(
Nope new plugs and injector still exactly the same iv tested the fuel reg with a car pump and it seems to be holding well and not leaking so I'm also thinking it's not that.. So iv gone back to what haz says and maybe the loom is fuzked just about 12" feels rigid compared to the rest but it's on the ignition side of the loom and idle ecu not the main ecu that fried :scratch:Quote:
Originally Posted by Trevhib
If the wires are very hard them yes it sounds like they are burnt mate
I wouldn't say very hard but harder.. I have no probs cutting and joining the normal wires but there are three thick black wires but when I took the coating off they seem to have a couple of thin wires within each covered by wire then the black coating are these ok to cut a long as I join them but they won't have any outer wire covering them.. If you get my driftQuote:
Originally Posted by Markey Mark (BD)
I haven't tried another yet but my temp suddenly went through the roof. Looks like my new thermostat if ****ed don't tell me that could be the cause? I will go bonkers if it is... Tried it in boiling water and it didn't budge.. No way surely not!!
Nope not that either that's it everything's coming off tomorrow sick of pissing about breaking my back having to doit round everything..
How many earths should I have?
Iv bought an adjustable fuel reg anybody know what psi it should be for the b18 or what it should be with my set up? Cheers
I had a diffrent one on haz told me to keep to the normal b18ft one as the other aee trouble setting up....ask haz mate.....:agree:
Iv got it at 45psi at the min and runs well so it can't be far off when I get the car running right in the first place I will have a play with the adjustable..Quote:
Originally Posted by B18ftMOJO5
If you mean towards the timing ecu, the wires are tighter packed, but i thought you have stripped the entire loom to check for melted wires?? Until you have looked at every inch of the loom you won't know if it's faulty.Quote:
Originally Posted by Nottswoody
The black thicker wires are screened, like a tv coax. Ideally these don't want to be chopped, but if you want to shorten them do so from an end either ecu or sensor so there are no breaks.
Not sure how you mean you've test the fuel reg, but it wants an inline gauge between fuel pump to rail, the test was to see if it was sticking making more pressure than std. Std should be 45psi. The regs mojo mentioned are the rising rate ones, can be a pain to setup. Sounds like it's not the reg?
Is the stat the correct way round. It will open slowly in boiling water, but should open.
There's 2 earth's in the Volvo loom, by the coil and the injectors.
£300 later still at the same spot. Iv given up now mr smiths coming tomorrow to help as iv exhausted my few talents and I'm just going round in circles..
I do genuinely feel sorry for you mate. I couldn't work out what was wrong with my afr's either.
I would have said it was timing but it is difficult to tell. I'll be interested to see what the outcome from mr smiths visit is.
The loom still needs to be fully checked, it may not be that but until it has been there's nothing else that's changed since before the first outing where it ran ok.
Ben, how would the timing affect running rich? There's 2 seperate ecu's.
Haz iv stripped the loom to the best of my ability all covers and old volvo coverings were taken off and visually checked but I'm the first to admit I still don't know what I'm doing and now iv fried my meter.. See what mr smith finds at this point iv had it with it.. I hope it's something simple something failed but as far as every wire is separated all Knicks to wires are tapped up bad bits I think are cut out and re joined..Quote:
Originally Posted by Haz
My talents and patients have ran out. Good thing is I have spares for the next year now :)
If your inlet & exhaust were opening either to early or to late in relation to the spark & the position of the piston on the compression stroke (as if the cam was a tooth out) could this not cause it to run rich?:confused:Quote:
Originally Posted by Haz
Im trying to get my head around it, but (and this is a pure stab in the dark) if the spark was to late (i.e. the piston has already begun the power stroke) could this cause the gaseous mixture to not ignite properly resulting in the 02 lambda seeing a rich mixture.
having said all that I could be talking complete rubbish :scratch:
So the very nice man mr smith came over to save me and tested everything on the loom and sensors and it all seemed to work out so that just left.. Is one of the injectors staying open? So I swopped a couple around from some spares and tried again and it only fired on three. But atleast for the first time it actually went lean so hopefully if I can get some decent injectors that maybe the fault..
So who's got some good volvo injectors spare? :coffee: :sos:
It's ok I have some injectors on the way I hope it's them :)
Excellent effort to resolve this without having resorting to torching it :agree:
Fingers crossed that you've nailed it this time.
AGGGGGGHHHHHHH :brickwall: :brickwall:
Iv tried everything it's not the injectors
So now timing can someone explain how to...
How can the timing have changed overnight? :(
God knows iv changed everything bar the loom and haven't checked the timing that's it everything else has been swopped it just constantly runs rich.. Fires up straight away at 14.9 then hits the tens.. Mega pissed off now runs out of mot tomorrow.. I truly am lost and skint because of the dam thing. ****ed off with it would be understatement :scratch: might just buy that loom off eBay cos iv had it.. :brickwall:Quote:
Originally Posted by Trevhib
I would try the loom, if everything was running sweet when first installed the the problems stated when the wiring loom was chipped through it could still be damaged in vaious other places when it shorted out
Will search the spare garage for you on weekend, don't get change to go in there during the week
Guys can I use a volvo 480 starter motor on my 5 box? Cheers I think there cheaper new than for a 5 one..
Depends on the size of your flywheel 215mm and the 5 starter wont work as it uses 10 teeth. If u have the smaller 200mm flywheel then the 5 starter (9 teeth) will work. So count your teeth or know the size of your flywheel. Think thats right :ashamed:
Cheers iv orders a 5 one now as that's what I had onit it was the solenoid that failed onit x2 in a week they were both old one though... Thanks for the advice :)Quote:
Originally Posted by GaryS
Use the Volvo starter, just remember to position the dowel on the outer lug on the gearbox not the inner
I don't think the flywheel diameters change between 200mm and 215mm clutch's, its just the mounting holes for the clutch that differ
Finally sorted it :) it seems when we tried the new ecu before finding the cuts in the loom it had fried that too :mad: new ecu and everything's ok :) £300+ mistake and many late nights stripping for nothing :ashamed: bloody cars :wasntme: thanks Gary for the new ecu and thanks for all the advice guys one positive I now know every inch of a b18 literally. Now hopefully it will be a good years boosting
Good news mate, glad you got there in the end! :agree:Quote:
Originally Posted by Nottswoody
indeed matey good news so what was it in the end! the wiring or ecu or both?
Sounds like it was both in the end, shame the new ecu he fitted before fried straight away with the damaged loomQuote:
Originally Posted by R5MJH
The wires had like fused together a total of 5 so that killed my first ecu then we put another ecu on before we saw the wires.. Bit of a pisser really but live and learn it's a new thing for me this efi Larky. Lesson learntQuote:
Originally Posted by R5MJH
Great news you got it sorted. You deserve it with all the effort youve put in. :agree:
im still learning too matey, well least it sorted so it all started with the wires cutting through the alternator belt, best getting boosting now boss pmsl:laugh:Quote:
Originally Posted by Nottswoody
:agree: great news
:goodJob::burnrubber:
Mot hopefully on Tuesday then I'm going to hammer the little France/Swedish bitch :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Wallace
:laugh::laugh::laugh::agree:
Mot passed today just an advisory on my rear wheel bearing.. :cool: happy with it so far but I'm only running 12psi so still a bit of room to play.. The cars hunting though so needs a bit of a playing with on the maf to get it right.. Going to have a go now and if I get it right tomorrow's drive to work should be fun :burnrubber:
:smokin:
Well the fun was short lived went to work fine. Driving home started flooding its self again. If I take the fuel relay out it starts put it back in it just floods itself agin. 145pm I left work 715 I got back the AA can **** right off.. Back to square one I don't think it's the ecu this time as I tried another and it was the same again :mad: again... I have no faith in this set up anymore and in 12yrs of driving iv never not got home before..
Woody I really feel for you mate. That car is giving you know end of problems. For what it's worth mate, the end is just on the horizon, it'll be something silly like a faulty resistor and you'll be sorted.
The aa tested the maf and it was still set at 320 oms I'm thinking throttle sensorQuote:
Originally Posted by Benjibrady
:disagree:Quote:
Originally Posted by Nottswoody
Rubbish to hear your still having problems, I thought you had cracked it.
Sounds like that could still be a loom fault. If you remove the fuel relay that should remove the live feed to the pump so won't run.
In the past I have used the wrong impedance injectors, that blows the outputs on the ecu. It's not instant though, same as your first issue, it gets richer and richer until it no longer runs.
If the ecu outputs are damaged, even though you unplug the pump relay, it would continue to fire the injectors and supply fuel until the pressure drops in the rail and no longer runs.
The ecu only needs tdc, afm and temp sensor to run, without other sensors plugged in it just guesses.
Did you find any info on the net as to which sensors, which wires to test and what readings the should give?
I haven't no haz.. It really is getting on my tits now as I say I have no faith in it what so ever I will have a look over it over the weekend but I can't visually see anything like last time. Could it be I have the wrong loom for my lump? Your right it did get richer and richer the aa man used a quarter of a tank just trying to get it going.. That's when he gave up.. If it is the loom and ecu I'm out for the year now got other things to be spending cash on.. I must admit I regret doing the b18 I should of cut my losses and broke the dam thing.. Back on the trusty bike for me that's never let me down :)
Can I put any loom on my car as long as the ecu matches the loom? I think mines a 1991 but I maybe able to get the loom and ecus off a 1995 would this be ok?
So iv got it back in the garage and had a look around iv now got the throttle position sensor "clicking" well it clicks when closed but not when wide open. And again I can't see anything visually wrong the ecu doesn't "smell burnt" like last time..Quote:
Originally Posted by Nottswoody
Suggestions on a postcard please :scratch: I really don't want to go through everything again :scratch:
Next question before I rip things apart I have an after market adjustable fuel reg now when I turn it over it hits 40psi then 20 while turning the engine so could that be at fault it was new but a cheap one. Or is that the ecu telling it to release?
Have you checked the part number on the injectors to confirm they are standard?
You can use either loom for later ecu's.
For 1/4 tank just trying to get it going is crazy, if ecu outputs are blown the injectors stay fully open, worth smelling through the oil filler cap if there's been bore washing and fuel in the sump.
Tb sensor clicks just as it opens and just before it shuts, same position.
Whenever the fuel pump is running the pressure in the rail should be 3bar at idle. Ecu doesn't control pressure.
Had it running tonight haz and I'm afraid it's the same as before running 10s I ha it running with the green ecu and it ran lean and 2.5 revs put the orange back on it ran 10s. The injectors are 480 injectors I got them off a friend who's running bigger now.. Iv realised I now have to give up lock it away and save for standalone or break it.. I'm done with it to be honest so as my other post I'm looking for squirt standalone or what Evers out there. But either way I'm out for the year now. Actually have hate for the dam thing :)
Real shame its still got the problem, thought you got there in the end too.
I know what its like though I've had cars like this that just refuse to be fixed and you get so pissed off with them
Even though its possible to get it going with the standard ecu I still think standalone is always the best way to go with these engines, Schwartz went standalone (megasquirt) and never regretted it and Waddies engine made huge power for the boost on a relative standard engine with standalone ecu
These cars do drag you down (trust me been there) if you stick with it the set up will work wonders in the end :agree:
Can everyone get the feelers out for me because I haven't a clue were to look and what for. I really can't afford efi prices at the minute. Someone must have one stashed away? Because it now becoming a pain I no longer love this car any more breaking it is now an option.Quote:
Originally Posted by Markey Mark (BD)
Right then a few questions before I start taking this shit apart again..
Dose it matter what flywheel I have/ number of teeth
Dose it matter what block I have?
Can I use any matching loom and ecu with any of the above?
I'm thinking is it because I may have a miss match of parts and ecus and loom
Before I start buyin more parts I need some help in answers for the above..
So far iv seen about 5 different ecu colors it's all above me and driving me mad.
Has anyone got an idiots guide to b18ft :scratch:
If using a green ecu do you have the matching blue one?
Only matching needs to be flywheel, ecu's and afm.
Pre 91, orange ecu's (dual layer timing ecu), 007 afm.
91 onwards, maroon ecu's (sometime orange too but single layer timing ecu), 021 afm.
Last models green and blue ecu's (same as maroon, slightly more aggressive timing, more fuel efficient)
Early ecu's had 2 lives in loom, later ecu's had one live and bridged internally (pin 5 and 6 timing ecu so early looms can be used on all, later looms with early ecu's need an extra live.
Other colours may not be turbo ecu's and/or not as common such as European with more emission based maps etc.
Later 215mm flywheel is 60-2, I forget what early 200mm is, but think that's the same, the difference is the missing tooth/tdc position thus offset timing map to suit.
Also loom wants tdc sensor to suit (2 or 3 pin).
Head, block, crank, rods, pistons all same. Differences are cam, flywheel, clutch, turbo and elbow, ecu's and afm.
Really I always suggest buying everything from one running car to guarentee it's all compatible, and why scoff prefers to modify an existing ecu rather than exchange.
Cheers haz so basically I'm ****ed from the start
My block says b18ft 107 c011084 on the plate beneath the oil breather yet another pals says b18ft 107 0056266 and he has the same orange ecu as me and loom he's willing to sell me but he's asked me to count the teeth on my flywheel which is going to be a mission.
What would you say do for the best? There's only the loom it's self I haven't actually changed everything else has changed apart from the flywheel of course..
Can you not borrow and overlay his loom loose around your engine to see if there's any difference. Change one thing at a time and buy whichever sorts the faults?
He's not actually a friend it's more a case of it the only loom iv found in months. I got the loom already stripped to begin with so having a full volvo loom and starting again may be a good idea.. Hell why not iv tried everything else..Quote:
Originally Posted by Haz
All of your parts mate are from an early Volvo car (pretty sure), the flywheel is the smaller 200mm one as it had/has my old clutch from my gt on it (did I sell you the clutch too I can't remember). I've only ever used a 215mm flywheel/clutch combo and that was in my old van so 100% you got the smaller one in there
With that flywheel i gave you the early loom and orange ecus with correct MAF unit so you should be ok in that department mate, everything should be matched up.
Hope it helps out abit mate, I know it is a pain in the backside when mismatching parts so tried to give you everything from one set up or same years ;)
Cheers mark.. Saves me messing around trying to count teeth nope I didn'tt buy the clutch I have my green box volvo one on there.. I'm pretty sure I'm going to buy that loom off the chap. I know the flywheel is lightened a fare bit it's just baffling me how it can do this three times now :scratch:
Do you think it could be a prob the way I have it wired into the car haz says he would of done it by the drivers side. I have it by the passenger side into the fuse box and I also used the block of doom or what ever it's called do you think I should wire it in another way?
If you got the really light flywheel thats my old original one which is a 200mm flywheel (came off the car i broke for my engine)
How do you mean you done it to the left side? If you mean how you routed it around the bay i ran mine on the drivers side and into the bulkhead
We ran mine up the drivers wing then into the bulkhead on the passenger side and cut the aei wires and joined the live from the old fuel pump wires in the fuse box bypassing the old fuel relay if that makes senseQuote:
Originally Posted by Markey Mark (BD)
Paul just for the record i wired as folows; B18ft wiring has been connected to the old fuel pump relay wires as relay wasn't needed in this conversion. The oe plug of doom is only used for the ancillary parts ie starter motor, oil pressure/level, charging.
None of this should cause issue to running of engine.
Wiring loom was layed into engine bay as supplied adn there was a choose to run loom through bulkhead on either drivers or passenger side, it looked neater to run across with strut brace from drivers to passenger side and then in to area once occupied by aei.
The original aei wiring is only utilised for the feed the rev counter.
As he said :) i was just asking if there's some other special way I missing.. See what the new loom dose..Quote:
Originally Posted by Thundercat
Right then
Ecu and loom I can get is matching but on my throttle sensor on the loom there is 5 wires on a 6 pin switch.. On this loom which is still orange ecu it has 6 on a 6 pin switch will it be ok? I hope so as it's the only loom in the land :dearme:
Never thought I'd have to be importing parts for a bloody5 well the volvo parts :jerkoff:
Now chatting to guys in Germany and holland... These parts are rare :eek:
Even when I was playing with them parts were hard to get, I think most of the cars were scrapped before the conversion was popular and they could be stripped of there useful bitsQuote:
Originally Posted by Nottswoody
Grab what you can I say!
Just waiting for him to 2nd reply we have to go through a translator :confused: but we're getting there with pics on through fb..Quote:
Originally Posted by Markey Mark (BD)
I'm quite interested to see how this goes, be nice to know there are still spares kicking around for the old girls
Hi Paul,
Yes indeed there is news. I have one 92er turbo cable harness but it must be dismantled and that takes some time. Think about a week due to my regular job. Price: € 100,00 without postage.
Do you also need another orange jetronic wit compatible ECU (I have a purple Robou-modded ECU, but that ECU costs € 250,00.
Greetz,
Wow :wasntme::laugh::eek::cry:
Bloody hell that's a lot of money
I can see me buying a 480 at this rate or just breaking mine it's really boring the shit outa me now.. :crap:Quote:
Originally Posted by Benjibrady
Still no luck on getting a loom seems the volvo 480 massive don't take too kindly to us 5 owners having there engines.. The quest and request continues:disagree:
Might have abit of luck mate, while emptying the spare garage I think I found what appears to be a Volvo loom. Found it in a box tucked under 2 other boxesQuote:
Originally Posted by Nottswoody
I will have to get it out and check it over and see what type it is too
First ray of sunshine :) cheers mark empty the cave see what's in there :agree:
what clutch size does the engine have?
The 200mm standard green box volvo I had it on my c1j only for about 1000 miles so reused it with the volvo lumpQuote:
Originally Posted by sieger
purple and orange ezk's will fitt , the loom has to have 3 wires @ tds. the fuel ecu needs to be a LH 2.2 Jettronic.
i 've found some1 who has both versions as mention in the pm :)
1988 volvo 480 turbo
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...j-88-klein.jpg
1989
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...j-89-klein.jpg
1991
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...j-91-klein.jpg
That's brilliant could you explain tds?
crank shaft sensor, now iḿ not sure anymore how many wires it has to have :confused::crap:
Pm for you chapQuote:
Originally Posted by sieger
Right guys iv had another response..
Hi Paul,
Yes indeed there is news. I have one 92er turbo cable harness but it must be dismantled and that takes some time. Think about a week due to my regular job. Price: € 100,00 without postage.
Do you also need another orange jetronic wit compatible ECU (I have a purple Robou-modded ECU, but that ECU costs € 250,00.
Greetz,
Joep
Now willing to ship to me in the uk for £280 what you think?
Shipping cost are Max €20 .
Did you het an quote from Orlando ?
That's quite a number mate, you could almost build a mega squirt ms1 and loom for thatQuote:
Originally Posted by Nottswoody
He's not responded bud. This is from another Dutch guyQuote:
Originally Posted by sieger
Seems I've missed a bit. The way the loom is wired is ok, connection wise, the route is not ideal. Running loom through metal without grommets where it can rub through will eventually become a problem. Have you sorted the rough bit by aei? The reason I run the loom the way I do is because that's how it wants to land naturally. Campus battery layout works even nicer, maybe mojo can put a pic of his up?
250 for an ecu is crazy, that's a rich pruen modded one too. The one I supplied is modded so not required. I'm on about the black timing one, which I've yet to come across a faulty one, unless it's been 'played' with. You seem to be having issues with the fuel one. Loom differences are tdc connection and timing ecu power
Remove your loom and post it to me, I'll fully strip and test it. Send me ecu's and afm too and I'll try them for you and go from there. Just mark up which one is goosed, the one that's on its way out etc.
You really need to test and eliminate what you think is wrong with what you have, otherwise you'll just keep on buying bits you may not need.
Sometimes you can be given advice that can be wrong because the advisor doesn't have all the info, like when the belt cut into the loom, not obvious but without seeing the car no one would to suggest looking for it ;)
Cheers haz but iv chopped the shit out of it now it's not worth saving.. It's the loom I need now to start again..Quote:
Originally Posted by Haz
Hero:smokin:Quote:
Originally Posted by Haz
So it looks like adaptronic is on the cards just asking scoff for prices at the min and figuring out how to get it there need some Saab injectors and I'm good to go.. Gave up the idea buying another car when I have the 5 just parked I the garage..
Anyone know anyone with a truck in the midlands?
:agree:,
Good man, you'll definitely enjoy the engine a lot more with Adaptronic on it :agree:
It's cost me my second car :devil:Quote:
Originally Posted by Markey Mark (BD)
I should listen to everyone around me and grow the **** up!!! :dearme: but then where's the fun in that.. So we eat beans for a while longer.. I like beans :cartman:
Got a quote of £139 to scoffs on a trailer it's 99miles from here is that right?
spoke to my mate he can do it monday tuesday or wednesday next week for you for £110:agree:
Thanks but I'm not ready yet I'm just looking for the time being but I am looking ASAP just need to find out the best injectors to use with the map and spec of the b18.. See what scoff says and I will get back to you with a date.. Thanks for looking for me though:agree::agree:Quote:
Originally Posted by B18ftMOJO5
cool hes available anytime when you need it done ill pm you his number.Quote:
Originally Posted by Nottswoody
Awesome news mate, i'll be interested to see how it goes ;)
See what you mean now woke up to 20 emails from people but your mates still winning at £110:agree:Quote:
Originally Posted by B18ftMOJO5
I have access to a trailer on daily loan rate buddy.
Top man :) saab injectors orderd will fit soon as they get here the question has been asked to scoff when is he free then off for some adaptronic :) I need boost in my life..Quote:
Originally Posted by Thundercat
Now have some Saab injectors just need to fit and wait for July as that's the closest I can get into Efi parts.. Busy man is the scoff.. Now a waiting game one I should of done along time ago
9th of June for the adaptronic at efi parts :) sadly I'm out for fcs :( never mind onwards and upwards :agree:
Retro cars 22nd June Santa Pod fella ;)
Well that depends on the time frame scoffs fitting me in between other jobs so will take upto 10days but the mrs says it's a go so far but our girl starts her cleft lip and pallet ops on the 25th :crap: could be a good stress relief :) is there track time available?Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Raider
So will the 420d adaptronic replace most things on my b18? Like the maf and all volvo parts? It's those I have fault with I think individually they work fine together they don't.. If it's a case of everything is ran by the 420 I should be good.
All set for Monday at Efi parts spoke to Chris/scoff and thanks to b18ftmojo5 for sorting transport..
I'm really hoping this sorts my little 5 out she's been locked up for 3months abandoned :)
Who thinks it will hit the elusive 200bhp mark.. If it dose this all might of been worth it.. If not there might be a 5 for sale :crap:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nottswoody
Once the Adaptronic is fitted i'll be surprised if it didn't do more than 200bhp mate!
I really hope so I hoped to be having a cracking year this year on track but it hasn't happend so far..Quote:
Originally Posted by Markey Mark (BD)
Talking to Chris I might just need a boost controller to make it perfect but we will see what happens next week :) looks like iv got to fork out for a lap top now as well so I can use the 420d for any future diagnostic but how useful will that be I just plug the car in at home and know what's up :) I really don't know what todo go for the biggest bhp out of it or just have it running safe. Still haven't told the mrs the cost :ashamed: fingers crossed te 5 performs and behaves at Efi parts it should do iv spent enough getting it there..
Good luck buddy, be nice to see it back on the road.
Cheers budQuote:
Originally Posted by Thundercat
I'm aiming to go to retro day at pod if all works out.. People of nottigham have probably thought my 5s gone it sat in the garage that long. Iv finally got the central locking working tonight after three years of not knowing it didn't lock the drivers door :crap: the go pro is set in the car for the drive back :) really can't wait I thought it was quick when standard I can't imagine what it will be like after scoff has a play with it.. Anything over 200 I will be a happy man. :agree: and I defiantly need to beat 15.2 at pod then the 5 can go away again for a while until we get our daughters ops out the way..
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nottswoody
To start with go for moderate power, i still recon over 200bhp is achievable even on the first map mate. You can always map it later on for more power ;)
out of curiousity how much did it cost to buy the adaptronic kit and get it mapped? defo consider that in the future. 200bhp must be 220bhp a tonne more than enough id imagine you would struggle to get any traction beyon that.
Alot :) but worth it if it sort the car out.. Best money can buy i feel :crap:Quote:
Originally Posted by B18ftMOJO5
Is it still on the std cam? Around 200-210bhp max iirc. Should be nicer to drive than a bypass hole setup, but at least you didn't have to faff around with all that too.
Regards the laptop, consider an android tablet with seperate keyboard instead, look up adaptronic live gauges apps. All you need then is a way to mount it on your dash ;)
I think mark said it's the n/a cam but not sure..Quote:
Originally Posted by Haz
Is the ipad any good haz?
It's a different cam in there ;)
I don't think so, I tried to find the app on my phone but it may only be available on iPad?? I've tried with my pulso android but not on there either.
With the cam it should do around 225bhp@21psi. Does it have a 2ltr throttle body as it will make it more responsive. It only has a 3pin sensor, the std has 5pins but afaik it's because it's linked in with icv, but shouldn't be an issue on adaptronic.
It's just the standard throttle bodie with the 5 pin throttle sensor. Dose Chris still use that one then? I guess that will be another mod I need to buy later although 220 is more than enough for me it's the torques I'm after :) tell you the truth I just want to be able to have fun init again. I'm not after pushing it you guys have all done the maximum out the b18 I just want to piss the locals off on the A roads again :)
Well the cars at scoffs now (efi parts) what a journey it's 99 miles from me and it pissed it down all the wAy there and even worse on the way back some stupid mare nearly killed me by not looking in her blind spot. 5-10 days to see if she's all better with adaptronic.. Saw some bodies Hreg white one there that's going to be a beast. Fingers crossed it's at the best place now :) efi parts ftw:agree:
Well not a good start so far seems when I put the red saab injectors in they were either knackerd or when I tried to start it my loom has knackerd them as they are stuck shut.. So were going for vxr injectors.. I hope things go well from here I didn't want her to be a pain for scoff too plus I'm a 100 miles away.. Never realised how bored I'd be without her :) garage cleaned garden done house work done I'm bored now lol even resorted to watching football..
From the man him self..
Right, we're all done, best I could squeze was 215hp at 21psi ish. Running in to knock if I push any harder, so hopefully that'll do for now !
I'm happy with that for a b18 should be fun to drive :)
thats excellent so it was well worth the trip, what was you hoping to get?? is that a t28??:agree:
I was happy over 200 so yep I'm happy I haven't fetched it yet it's a 2/3hr drive and I'm all excited at work :) yep a t28 I always knew the best to get was about 230 anyway..Quote:
Originally Posted by R5MJH
Right next project f7 lol
Great, let's hope you get some time to enjoy the car for a while now! :)
The VXR injectors were ok in the end then?
that what mikes done, gone and bought a f7r pmslQuote:
Originally Posted by Nottswoody
They were Chris choice of injector and if he's happy I'm sure I will be :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Trevhib
Picking it tomorrow now
Am right in thinking you can only push the b18 to 230ish?
All depends what you have done to it mate, if you leave it a as a fairly standardish engine then thats about the going figure for one, if you play with things (cam, compression, head, valve train) then more can be achieved i believeQuote:
Originally Posted by Nottswoody
One thing though is the torque on these does feel lot stronger :agree:
I think I will be happy for now with it. Just a few things to do before Sunday. Change fluids the alternator is about knackerd just little things. Go pro is on charge ready for some boost footage :) scoffs having to put some cold start settings on the map so I won't be playing tonight :( I can see a sicky coming on tomorrow cough coughQuote:
Originally Posted by Markey Mark (BD)
thats great news, you derseve some good news paul hope you have a safe drive back:)
Cheers bud is there any way to advertise your mates pick up? I couldn't fault him very carefull and bang on time would defo use again.. :agree:agree:Quote:
Originally Posted by B18ftMOJO5
i dont knw him personally paul. just used him off anyvan to send a car to derek lwloby on here and was happy with his service and price. used him twice since then, a nice bloke.
Top news - but how long till your bored of 200+ bhp?
You getting a cage fitted next?
:agree:
What is the torque figure?
You picked it up yet woody?
I think it's 216Quote:
Originally Posted by Trevhib
So drove to work today and back giving it a bit of boost then mailed scoff saying it's only hitting 10psi.. :ashamed: I didn't know he set throttle to 60% 10psi flat to the floor for 20.5 psi :ashamed: then the tyres got a hammering.. Yes the adaptronic is a cleaver bit of kit for sure..
Ace :) Now sit back and enjoy for a few months bud :agree:
I was hoping for years :confused: :cry:Quote:
Originally Posted by Trevhib
Don't push your luck :wasntme:
B18ers when bleeding your cooling system do you leave any room in te expansion tank? I know these are high pressured engines but when I leave room it was boiling when I don't it runs fine.. Took me an age and a burnt arm (a lot of pressure in the cap) to get the air out.. What's your preferd methods? The only way I could get the air out was jack te car up.. What do you do and dose all your water pipes feel tight as ****? It seems to run better when they are pressured.. Cheers
since i got the car done from haz ive only needed to top the water up once yet. it been on the rd for 18 months now. where do you have your expansipn bottle located? mines on the bulkhead level with the top of the strut tower, im sure haz said to keep it level with the top of the block. they do run hot but shouldnt be boiling.
It's looking like it's a massive air lock but I think it's gone now :) the car was stalling and cutting out on my way home I think it was the water temp sensor getting false readings as when I unplugged it she ran better had to jack the car up as I have mine were the oe air box was took a few times but I think it's got there now.. Ordered one of those coils you mentioned before and a new alternator which I will fit ASAP so we should all be good to go very soon. Hopefully things will settle down now.Quote:
Originally Posted by B18ftMOJO5
She just doesn't want to give you an easy ride does she mate
The thing is I haven't even really pasted it yet. I will get it perfect then have a real go with her keep ticking the bits off the list. More important things in life at the mo but we will get there I don't think there's an old thing on there now.. I knew the alternator was on it's way out and the coil was old for £15 it's worth changing and the alternator was only £40 I got my money back off the saab injectors so it's not actually cost me anything :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Benjibrady
How's yours Ben?
Christ taking it's time! Unfortunately it's all out of my control, wish I'd done the same as you and sent it to scoff but I'm commited now.
Literally just getting the loom finished and moving the header tank. Really hope to make it to prescott
I just totally lost the love and faith in the 5 so off to scoffs it went I had other priorities to handle.. And it's strange it's been in the garage since it's been back iv really lost interest in it now. It will come back one day :scared: I hope :crap:Quote:
Originally Posted by Benjibrady
Picture update as requested by woody, for woody :)
http://i1066.photobucket.com/albums/...pswcrc03pn.jpg
http://i1066.photobucket.com/albums/...pscrzfw4bw.jpg
http://i1066.photobucket.com/albums/...psdye5kk71.jpg
http://i1066.photobucket.com/albums/...ps1kdppuxr.jpg
Cheers..
End of thread really. That's how she is and that's how she will stay now for a good while just got other things on in life with family really.. Still be around though and still might make a few shows if I can.. Thanks to all involved along the way I'd like to say iv enjoyed it lol but I didn't really towards the end but it's nice to know it's in the garage should I want it.. :smokin:
man thats one huge intercooler...sorry to hear your parking her up but family comes first always. glad to hear its all running right though.
Least you got there in the end mate, has been a real up and down journey with this 5 hasn't it!
Know how you feel though, you done the right thing parking it up and concentrating on the family. As its done you can always come back to it when you want to :agree:
Hope all is well now with the little one
If you do decide to play with the 5 again, one thing I would suggest is get rid of the dizzy and go coil pack. Map the ignition and you can push bit more out of it ;)
You've probably made the right decision in putting it in the garage :agree: other things in life are more important, hope things go ok for your daughter :)
So seems cheap enough would it have to be fitted and mapped again by scoff?Quote:
Originally Posted by Markey Mark (BD)
Tried the one from eBay and it wouldn't work :crap: so orderd one from the 2.3 volvo any ideas why the other wouldn't fire the car up? I thought a 12v coil was just a standard one?Quote:
Originally Posted by Haz
Fitted the new 480 alternator so now my light back out :) it was charging but light was on all the time so I was paranoid.
Gear selector re aligned
Just new rear window rubbers and latches todo then that will be EVERY BLOODY THING NEW :cartman:
226 miles to £40 :scared::cry:
That's roughly similar to my g/f's 1.8 Focus, which is not only dog slow but has soul-less power delivery/drive-ability.
Round town we get about 265 miles off £55 at 130p a litre atm, so maybe worse than what you're seeing! About 28-29mpg.
You're looking at about 33-34mpg based on your figures above. That's not bad!
Halifax to Santa pod and back which was just over 300 mile round trip cost me £45 in fuel.That was shell nitro as well.:agree:
That was mainly tootling around so I guess it's not too bad runs on 14.9 afr tootling and 12.9 full boost. I was worried it was too lean but apparently it's what the engine likes.. I do enjoy not having to watch the Afrs all the time now :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Trevhib
HELP :) whos the parts whiz? Can you find me a b18ft full headset gaskets for exhaust n all that.. Local factor says discontinued and so do gsf :( only got a blowing exhaust or something but if im going to strip it i might aswell doit with new gaskets.. Cheers guys
If it's the manifold gasket i have a new one spare still mateQuote:
Originally Posted by Nottswoody
Cheers mark im not sure yet but i will take it send us your paypal on fb bud I think it's the gasket only blows under loadQuote:
Originally Posted by Markey Mark (BD)
Have a check first mate, i have a few other gaskets left over still so if you need more i can send them all in one goQuote:
Originally Posted by Nottswoody
Brilliant!!! :yeah:Quote:
Originally Posted by Markey Mark (BD)
Before I start ripping her apart.. Could the "ticking" noise come trough were the turbo meets the mani? Looks like my metal gasket has failed on one corner.. It dosnt happen on tick over just under load. Then goes away when I floor it.. Would save a lot of work if it is that otherwise I'm thinking manifold gasget..
Well after a few hrs getting the turbo off first thing is one of the corners is missing off my metal gasget??? Too much boost for it :dearme: keep digging or go with it's that?Quote:
Originally Posted by Nottswoody
How much extra work is it to get the manifold gasket out? If you can face it, it's probably worth replacing that as well.
It would be easier to whip the engine out bud.. One nut took me 45mins last night on the t28 not a lot of room for movement under there.. I'm waiting for the gaskets so today I'm just going to do this and realign the exhaust (it's never fitted nice) then refit hopefully it's that then next week if I get them I will re do the lot..if it wasn't for loosing the gearbox oil I'd whip it out now.. Take about 3hrs I thinkQuote:
Originally Posted by Trevhib
So iv been turned to having a sidey.. **** me it's loud lol sounds mental if they didn't here me before they certainly do now on the limiter.. No flames yet though :)
i used to have a side exit on my old car, though it did liss my neighbours off at 7am trying to park up after work and getting everyone up. did make a huge diffrence performance wise though. you noticed any difference in how quickly the engine revs up with it?
Install a full throttle shift device and the flames and loud bangs will be there in no time.
I think its as quick as it was just bloody loud :) will find out on the 27th if its helped it any althogh i think its just the noiseQuote:
Originally Posted by B18ftMOJO5
Bought a back up b18ft today :D so all c1j parts are for sale on FB or just pm me I can't upload on here :scared:
How far are you splitting your c1j engine? I could be after a few bits.
Well I need to split the head off and see if it was either the hg or head that has issues (oil in water) not water in oil..
So fresh built bottom end with Ep cam
Piper vernier
Carb etc when I say everything it was built 3000 miles ago had issues and the lot came out in one.. See my threads.. Everything new
So at 2500 revs I have a ticking I wouldn't say it's knocking so hopefully caught it early :cry: who's having a guess what it is? Bearings or cam top or bottom? Too much boost and right foot I'm not complaining at 200+bhp iv nailed it ALOT! Either way I will sort it :coffee:
It's definitely not the exhaust leaking again, like you had before? Different noise this time?
Nope tried that first.. Need to do one more journey in her then sumday day night I will have the sump off.. It sounds painfull this time.Quote:
Originally Posted by Matty
You know you cursed the bloody thing when you mentioned about taking that engine crane / jig down last weekend mate!
Sorry to hear this. Hope it's nothing major and you get it sorted pal.
What sump sealant is everyone using?
Hi guys I'm back after a winter fall out with the 5 and family stuff to take care of but now the weather is hopefully changing and family life calming down perhaps after a few months not even looking at the 5 I might have my love back for her..
So were I'm at now unfortunately due to a lack of oil my bottom ends knocking (hopefully just shells) in the mean time iv stripped the interior out the 5 to fit a cage and buckets I can't get any more out the engine yet so she's loosing weight.. Found a little bit of the dreaded tin worm on my passenger side so that's getting taken care of first.. Love to hate these 5s but she's not going any were this summer I think..
Hope your all well :-)
Good to see you paul. Mine off road while after an accident:rolleyes:. i move houses friday so shes got a garage to go in finally.:agree::agree: so should back on the rd in no time. Im driving a golf at the minute:crap:
Alright guys?
Well i havent posted here much latley i know been busy with family life and the 5s off the road this year im having a full strip down under the car and found some rust and holes inder the rear jacking points :cry: but hey shes an old gal so to be expected i guess.. New callipers all round new lines throughout beam off having new rear arm bushes fitted into the beam as mine are all split. New everything really underneath fully stripping the floor of all old sealer and then por 15 the lot will be clean enough to eat your dinner off hopefully. Scary to think its so rusted and thats what holds the rear axel in place.. Please do look at yours they are ageing now. New compensator as well as all lines were original how tey got through mots i do not know never leaked but very rusted at the joins. Thays about it really for me this year i will be at shows but not in the 5 this year :disagree: hope your all well?
Glad to hear you and family are well. Look forward to actually meeting you in the flesh at ND :agree: mines in for mot coming monday.
And you bud :)
Family's getting there bud youngest has a long road ahead of her but shes strong and happy so were happy at that for the min just take it day by day really.. I definitely need some pod inspiration that's for sure :) all interior is out now I have a cage and buckets ready to go in once the welding a done.. Then some slicks and hopefully some better times I lost a lot of time bloody wheel spinning :disagree: as a fraze I heard " spinning ain't winning" then hopefully maybe a little more engine mods might be possible in the future :wasntme: we will see.
sounds like ur into street outlaws paul like loads of us:laugh:
Yep iv driven mine for nearly 4yrs now mrs hates it can't have the kids init I was hammering it to work and back.. So why not just use it for pod? I spent £££££ doing it up and killed two engines in 6000miles so my theroy is if I only use it for pod it should last years :) watched outlaws since day 1 and all other program's on sky at the min the mrs hates it :) 13.9 wasn't bad but I know she can do better..Quote:
Originally Posted by R5MJH
Good to see the groundwork being done :)
So welding guys!!!
Outer sills are mint but the inners are toast.. Easy enough to do or do the outers have to come off again?
Are you still coming ND pal,Quote:
Originally Posted by Nottswoody
I should be but not in the 5 I'm trying to get it booked off as of right now I'm booked in so will just pay on the gate I think..Quote:
Originally Posted by B18ftMOJO5
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nottswoody
:agree: Looking forward to seeing you running at Retro Day,
My 5 won't be at pod this year bud.. I'm battling rust control this year :cry:Quote:
Originally Posted by James5
NooooooQuote:
Originally Posted by Nottswoody
Sadly yes.. Passenger side inner sill is gone completely all the sealant has held water and it's now ****ed it good and proper drivers isn't as bad but rusted and they were done in 06 :eek:Quote:
Originally Posted by James5
Got the rear beam off and both rear jacking points are rotted and have holes in were it fastens to the floor.. So complete rip out all new items underneath everything new brakes/lines/ everything it will be a new car.. But sadly will be off the road as long as needed no half measures here :)
Dude at least once done as you say will be a new car, you going to tackle the welding yourself:agree:Quote:
Originally Posted by Nottswoody
Not the big stuff but I will be buying a welder for the little I will have to nip to the scrapers and get some metal and practice on that before I do my carQuote:
Originally Posted by James5
Keep on it bud, my trophy is in same condition, both inners to be welded.
So no real update apart from its rotten as hell under there :cry: both sills inner sills are bad enough to need doing both rear jacking points are really bad in my eyes so i am cutting it all out and starting fresh. In the mean time iv had the rear beam bushes done the garage said they was not nice todo and said he would never do another set :) stripped and painted the beam painted all brackets taken off the car because I'm a cheap ass and had some paint left over. New brakes all round new brake lines fuel lines ext ext. i will get there in the end lots of grinding taken all the sealant off underneath that was the worst job ever as id smothered it last year in underbody sealant last year. All not very nice on my back with about a foot of height off the floor. Why do we do this too ourselves? I really don't know anymore all the funs gone out the 5 at the minute. With family life and work i think it will be done next year at the earliest. Still undecided if i should stick to red or go another colour on the 5 :scratch:
Onwards and upwards..
Those rear beam bushes are a nightmare! When they need doing again in 20yrs, take it back to the same place, maybe he'll have forgotten how bad a job it was :D
Bassiclly he had to burn them then air saw them then callapse them grind the rust away grease then re fit with a press .. Charged me £60 for it plus £16.99 for the bushes to say they have done about 230000 miles i dont think there that bad.. He even said cracks in the rubber are ok its only a mot failure if its split.. Well worth doing though surley its such a large bush.Quote:
Originally Posted by Trevhib
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nottswoody
Wow ow haven't been on for a long while.. Been busy with family stuff so the 5s on the back burner for the time being but still doing bits to kill the rust issues an hr at a time. I won't give up till she's back up and running. So far I've done passengers inner sill new floor and jacking point front and rear so much rott was found under the beam where it touches the body so I've made new and thicker for both sides.. Been a bitch learning to weld at the same time but I will get there.. Once I work out how to work photos on the new site I will upload some.. 👍.
Keep it up Paul :agree: Pics should be easier now! :)