I thought id share some progress pics. I only get to work on it 1/2 a day a week so progress has been slow, not helped by the body shop having to paint it twice either. Ill put some more pics in my albums on profile later...
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I thought id share some progress pics. I only get to work on it 1/2 a day a week so progress has been slow, not helped by the body shop having to paint it twice either. Ill put some more pics in my albums on profile later...
im sure i remember you posting about this before, is this the 5 on which the paint reacted and went ripply.?
Quote:
Originally Posted by raj
Yes mate, i was a tad upset that day! I should have taken it to Dave at SBS... still this coat of paint has stayed on (so far) and its a reasonable job too.
That looks great! Your local to me too, look forward to seeing you about :) Whenever you may finish it lol!
Progress has been fairly slow recntly. I cant wait to get it on the road so am not going as far as originally planned, with the intention of doing other bits after it is roadworthy. Recent progress has seen the rear beam overhauled, new rear brakes assembled and lowered to match the front. Engine progressed with much help from *Boris cheers mate :agree:. Windows in and loom in. Area rep providing encouragement but with clean hands! He did manage to hold the unbrella in the rain for 10 mins though :cooter: ;). If we stop tapping our feet to the SugaBabes on the radio we might get some more done...
https://www.rtoc.org/boards/picture.p...pictureid=2944
i love the colour scheme there, it looks well fresh.
whats the pampers box about? not a permanent heat shield is it :laugh:
good luck getting it finished mate :)
LOL, no im thinking of having a hot side and cold side as i have a load of ally sheet lying around, just a template but not sure of final layout under the bonnet yet, no heat shield ideas yet either - running out of room ;)...
You decided to go for a charge cooler in the end then buddy? Thats look a big radiator you fitted, where did you source that from?
As for tapping your feet to sugar babes, I still listen to that CD every noe and again, that was left in the stereo, if i ever want some cheesey music :rolleyes:
Hey Chris, glad to hear my cheesy music is keeping your speakers pumping!:ashamed:Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris Hebden
As for the C/C I didn't want to hack the front cross member to bits, but sourced a second Pace water rad and plumbed it in series. Due to the lack of space I am thinking of putting them both below the X member, moving the rad over and putting the oil rad infront of the alternator.
Has anyone moved the alternator to the rear of the bay before to make more room? Is it only a case of fabricating a bracket if it will fit?
That looks bloody brilliant :)
Get a ph2 boot spoiler on there in the darker blue :agree:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Trevhib
Cheers Terv :ashamed: I've been following the thread about spoilers and have been in two minds to fit it, and I got it done in the dark blue too...!
Who's Terv? :cry:
Lol.
Use double-sided tape to tack the spoiler on. The type that has a 1mm sponge middle. It sounds dreadfully chavvy but it works perfectly and will allow you to remove it afterwards if you get bored of the look or get it slightly askew. I should know, mine has been solid for the last 2.5 years and you'd never know by looking at it that I cheated :innocent:
Managed to get the front arches stonechipped and brakes fitted, dummy fitted front bumper and measured up for the rads. Feels like a lot of progress as somthing changed colour under the arches but in reality im still not a lot closer to getting it back on the road...:crap:. Also did a bit of wieghing of brake components for peeps to compare in kilogrammes:
Std disk 3.8
285mm K-tec disk 6.3
Hi Spec 285 disk 5.7
Std Caliper 3.9
Hi Spec Calliper 1.7
Popped a couple of pics in here if anyone is interested: https://www.rtoc.org/boards/album.php?albumid=295
Loving the pics bud! Did those discs come as part of the kit?
Thanks Chris, yeah the disks are the ones supplied by hi spec in the kit, I have a pic of the box and part number somewhere too, but I think they machine the grooves in them and do a bit of drilling. Any chance you can weigh one of your EBC ones if you get chance?Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris Hebden
Yea i had a look at them through that link you posted a little while ago, did a quick google and couldnt find them anywhere!Quote:
Originally Posted by Alastair
Yea not a problem mate, i think i have still got a corroded one sat outside. Will the corrosion add much weight too it? If yea then i'll whip one off the car!
Cool, prob best to weigh a new one if you get chance? No hurry though, just interested!
Managed to get a few more bits done. Interior coming along with brakes finished, hyd handbrake (couldnt resist) and proportioning Vv. Plumbing layout subject to change but this seems to work, oil rad in front of nearside wheel below headlight to go in with some chopping...
hoping to get it moving over half term and get MOT:)
Pics attached.
Looking very nice mate. Whats the metal box next to the break resevoir for?
looks like a remote oil filter with cooler take off?!?
Its a remote filter head with a thermostatic take off plate for a cooler underneath. A bit of a faf but means oil is filtered whilst cold. I need to shorten one of the lines by half an inch to marry them up a tad better and do some chopping to get decent air flow through the cooler (to be fitted), hoping to get more done next week, maybe even a drive...:)Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris Hebden
New poster! (less than 10 posts)
Really close now mate, it's taken many, many hours work to get it this far, but im sure as you will agree, it was worth putting in the extra time to do the job properly.
Attention to detail is nice on this people...
:smokin:
Looks spot on ;)
LOL you dont do things by half do you bud! When you getting it too Bristol so i can have a butchers!!!Quote:
Originally Posted by Alastair
LOL, probably about the same time i get round to dropping Jesus' free boss off! I keep forgetting to pick it up at the weekends! (Sorry mate...!)Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris Hebden
Well should be before March sometime Chris its been 14 months now - hows that CD i left ya?...
I have boost withdrawl symptoms:cry:
:burnrubber::burnrubber::burnrubber:
and thanks for the kind words peeps!
Alastair, those tunes just blow the local car park chav scene to oblivion when i go cruising passed :wasntme:Quote:
Originally Posted by Alastair
Cant wait to see it, some great ideas have gone into this car!
A pics of the progress in the last two days, rain has slowed me up though - what i would give for a workshop with a smooth dry floor, kneeling on wet gravel is not nice... come to think of it neither is drilling and filing 52mm holes in a pants old vice for hours on end...:sad2: After 2 i gave up and went to a local engineers and it took them minutes to do 3 on the mill....
Fuel system, and breathers left to plumb, finish the interior and then front bumper, grille before first turn of the key... hopefull still in time for Cadwell Park...
https://www.rtoc.org/boards/picture.p...pictureid=4533
How much of that wiring did you manage to get rid of in the end?
Looking spot on! :agree:
First light hopfully tomorrow... it needs oil, coolant and a new battery cable knocking up and ill see if i fecked the immpobiliser or not! A couple of pics of new front end and exhaust on... After that there is still a bit of tidying work to do inside, but should hopfuly get it run in in the next couple of weeks. Ive also put some more pics in my rebuild update album on my profile if anyone wants a nosey... needless to say im very happy with seeing the front bumpers and grille on today!
https://www.rtoc.org/boards/picture.p...pictureid=4847
https://www.rtoc.org/boards/picture.p...pictureid=4848
https://www.rtoc.org/boards/picture.p...pictureid=4837
https://www.rtoc.org/boards/picture.p...pictureid=4850
thats smart!!!
:agree::)
this looks awsome
nice work there mate:)
Looking really nice mate. Not a complaint but the only thing i would say is a nice new header tank ;):D
Thanks for the encouragement peeps!
Ok im after a litte help if possible. I went for a start today after a significant loom reduction excercise during the rebuild.
I left the RCL/Immobiliser in for peace of insurance reasons and was careful not to interfere with it too much. However, i have a slight snag (bar a couple of oil leaks from a couple of unions). I have all the electrics working except the fuel pump when i turn the key.
I bridged the relay on what the blue Haynes calls the spedo drive relay (large red to large white wires) and hey presto - fuel pump runs so i tok the opportunity to flush the lines through.
I know my immobiliser cuts the ignition yellow wire to ignition cut out relay - ill check with a fluke tomorrow...
However after studying the manual for some time i can see that the 'fuel pp relay' and the Speedo dirve relay are inextricably linked. As i see it the main switching goes in this order...
no 187 (speedo drive relay) is switched on (latched as i call it) by the AEI white socket pin C (Brown (sometimes green)) wire.
187 main output drives the fuel pp but also sends the latch signal to the (No 493) fuel pp relay
187 fuel pp relay in turn controls the fuel level sensor/no2 fuel p/low level warning light.
So after war and peace my questions are:
1. Are my deductions correct?
2. Where does the feed for the AEI White plug pin C come from? Notal - The same block on Pin A goes to the 'Ignition cut out relay' (no 319) which is latched from the ignition barrel.
2. What is the Impulse generator (no 172) and where is it located - i dont think ths is the timing sensor - too many wires connected to it?
Any help appreciated - if i cant get to the bottom of it ill have to switch the fuel pp directly but after the mater cut off switch and id rather do it properly...:confused:
Anyone know if the above is what latches the fuel pp relay? :confused:
Hi, I need some help please, after finding out I had connected the AEI plugs the wrong way round I have fuel and a spark! Horray, but when I put a multimeter onto the white wire behind the ignition barrel it is short to earth. Without the spark plugs in the engine turned over fine but now struggles to turn over.
Should this white wire that goes to the start solenoid have such very little resistance to
earth?
Help appreciated been on this all fekin day and want to start it up!!!!
The answer is yes! However I have found the reason why - my multimeter is knackered.
I have tried to start it and proven spark and have 4 psi fuel pressure at carb but only the odd pop and bang - it won't fecking start... Arrrrrggggg time to do a quick timing confidence check with the compression tester before ripping the carb off...
you got that dizzy drive in the right place.lolQuote:
Originally Posted by Alastair
are you 180 degrees out mate
Quote:
Originally Posted by robw
I recon 180 out mate, compression test = ~27 PSI :laugh::laugh::laugh: I fcuked it up big time.:cry:
At least I can share the blame though..... :ashamed::wasntme:
Thats another days work next weekend then...
IT'S ALIVE!
A big thanks to Boris and Robw, they gave it a sanity check and a second compression check with a mechanical (not stupid digital) guage and all seemed ok, turns out I'd timed it on no 4 instead of no 1 and hey ho aspin of the dizzy leads and wrooof off she went :D
Time to get the some fluid in the brakes and an MOT!
Al` , im so glad its running , well done boys for the help and support, good ole rtoc..:D, i may get a look ' the bestie in the future then...;), good luck on the mot , bet ya cant wait to drive the ole girl on the highways...:cool:, good work buddy.
Cheers Jesus, yeah good ole RTOC to the rescue!
I'm still chasing an intermittant fault in the dash loom, the fuel pp relay seems to be ok now but the dash warning lights or rev counter won't come on ( they did last week?) but indicators and hazards seem ok? I've checked the earths and they seem ok too?
I think if i dont get to the bottom of it soon I might just get a second hand dash loom and get the immobilizer fitted again. The book points me to the yellow on pin 3 of the middle dash connector, which seems to be dead but I haven't had time to chase it through the loom (think it goes to the fuel pp relay yellow).
Anyone any thoughts?
I finished overhauling my wheels after getting inspiration from Brigsy's, thought id post a few pics. This was my first go at spraying and seemd to go ok.
https://www.rtoc.org/boards/picture.p...pictureid=6031
Blasted
https://www.rtoc.org/boards/picture.p...pictureid=6030
Primer going on - 3 coats of hi build after 2 of etch prime...
https://www.rtoc.org/boards/picture.p...pictureid=6033
Colour and 3 coats of laquer
https://www.rtoc.org/boards/picture.p...pictureid=6035
R888 fitted ready to go on...
Oh and Boris called round to help out and i couldn't resist a pic of two 5's together...
https://www.rtoc.org/boards/picture.p...pictureid=6027
For a first attempt they look awesome mate:)
Are you using 50 profile r888's? Do they fit ok?
Cheers Brigsy :smokin: - Yes mate they are the smallest i could get and they scrub a bit on full lock, the MoT tester wasnt happy with them but i did have the coilovers wound down v low. Ill just bang on an old set of wheels for the MoT re-test... love the van mate:cool:
Whoop whoop, passed MOT yesterday, and been for a first drive, it feels very tight!
It was a bit of a saga getting through the MOT, my first pair of hi spec calipers had a leak, so saved up and got new, flexis were a tiny bit too short so had to re make some longer lines, R888 were scrubbing front and rear, had to remove a lot from the fireglass arches with a flap wheel on an angle grinder and raise the front up a little. Brake servo gave up the ghost on the way to the first test...
Out on the road for a steady run I was bedding in the brakes and had forgotton the bias was fully to the rear - that caused some excitemet until I wound it out!
The project is by no means finished, there is a little work to do on the interior and engine bay and then the fiddly process of setting it all up to go round the track.. Stand by for some stupid questions!
I just want to say a big THANK YOU to all the RTOC guys for the help and advice (even the advice I might not have taken). Also special thanks to Boris and RobW, who have come Round and got dirty hands, Thanks!
i love this car man, makes the old shape look so fresh:agree:
Yeah......:goodJob:
You going to Pod on the 29th? I'd like to see this in the metal.....:worship:
Looking good dude, I really need to crack on with mine. Hopefully it will be road worthy in the next few months and i'll pop over (in Gosport).
Not sure if I will make the pod, it is half term week which is always difficult! Thanks for the kind words about the motor, tiff I'm sure you'll get yours on the road soon!
I've committed to doing the Croft Christmas Rally :laugh::laugh::laugh: and have a fair bit of additional work to do before i get it a scrutineered for a log book.:coffee: Cant think of anyone doing rallys in a 5 in the club? Anyone know someone?
Has anyone logbooked a 5 recently? If so any tips?
Before i can get it scrutineered i need to make up a 34mm turbo restrictor IAW the MSA blue book, does anyone know of a decent design? Or better have a CAD drawing of a decent one?:eek: A short look on the web has resulted in some info saying max 7 degrees after the 34mm section for best flow?
Oh and the seats i have are stamped for 2002 (sparco evo), how long do they stay in date for? The blue book only says FIA approved, and not much more guidance?:confused: I intend to have a dig on the web when i get 5 minutes peace from work...!
Any help appreciated!
got an msa log book for mine recently but for hill climbing rather than rallying, your best bet is to call your local scrutineer first and ask him all the questions so your happy with it all before you get him to do the log book.Quote:
Originally Posted by Alastair
top tip is they are fussy as hell with the pic, no other cars in back ground, car must not be clipped back ground must not blur into car it goes on.....
also the fact he issues a log book does not mean the first time it gets scrutineered at an event they dont pick the hell out of it!
Good luck with the rallying though, got to be soo much fun!
Cheers James, i intend to join the South Hams Motor Club when i get back home from work in a few weeks and get in touch with their scrutineer.Quote:
Originally Posted by James George
Did you have to machine a restrictor for your turbo for hill climbs???
nope, no real restrictions on the engine front other than the cheque book. doesn't the carb count as a bloody good restrictor?Quote:
Originally Posted by Alastair
LOL i wish it did, ive got to get a 34mm restrictor in the intake to the turbo, no further than 50mm from the blades... it should look a little like this...Quote:
Originally Posted by James George
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d3...y/CIMG7418.jpg
Looking good :cool:
Have you got the restrictor sorted out Alastair?
Ended up with an air intake and turbo that used to hoover up small children and animals on the sprint car, not looking forward to being 'restricted'
On the plus front, xmas stages should (!) suit small nimble cars :)
Not sorted out a restrictor yet, although i have done some research. I doubt that it will affect our cars significantly as the flow rates arent high enough, but you might have slightly higher charge temps. Most turbo manufacturers produce one but the price varies significantly. Where have you got yours from?Quote:
Originally Posted by Blot
The stages should suit us yes, i went to watch last year and had a great time, but better to have a go yourself :laugh:
Not sorted with one yet, today was first proper discussion on starting all the work. Will let you know where we go.
You had any thoughts on tyres yet??
A short update on the Rally preps, just got to fit the mudflaps, then sort out why i keep throwing alternator belts... 3 in a few hours is not good i think it might be somthing to do with the wet weather and wheelspin.
https://www.rtoc.org/boards/picture.p...pictureid=9318
Red switch on the foot rest is for the horn.
https://www.rtoc.org/boards/picture.p...pictureid=9312
Spare wheel just fits, ally brackets made to it a strap over the top. Helmet net, and ill rivet a plastic tool box into the boot to carry a few essential tools and a jack.
https://www.rtoc.org/boards/picture.p...pictureid=9327
You can just see the dry break fuel sample point at the bottom of the picture. Ill drop a few pics into an album if anyone is interested.
Blot, cant wait for the stages now, oh and have you checked you helmet will still be in date, they have changed the regulations, i had to replace mine. If you do upgrade it is worth getting a HANS approved one, Ireland have already mandated it, i reckon next year the MSA will do the same here.:)
A few more pics here...
https://www.rtoc.org/boards/album.php?u=116
I keep throwing alternator belts! It doesn't seem to matter if they are new Bosch ones or old used ones, or how tight I get them. There is no obvious misalignment, I have fitted a belt stop adjacent to the waterpump pulley and I am after some advice, I know some people have had trouble at the pod with the c1j at high revs, my thoughts were:
1. alternator mounts, being 20 hrs old may be a bit soft? Machine up some solid ones?
2. Fit a campus bottom pulley - anyone got one?
3. Fit an idler pulley on the longest bit of belt legnth?
Any advice appreciated!
Check to see if the pulleys are lined up properly matey. Bushes on the alternator bracket may be past there best too, swap the bracket for another.
I use a campus pulley/belt & have had no probs with belt coming off at high revs. If your keeping the std size pulley get a genuine belt too, there the best imo.
Cheers Brigsy, i'll have another good look this weekend, if it isn't wet! I'll try and lay my hands on a campus pulley in the mean time, and spin up some alternator mounts on the lathe.Quote:
Originally Posted by Brigsy
When you say high rpm are you talking up to 7k? Has anyone needed to fit an idler pulley?
campus pulley you say...with bolt...:D...;), i feel a pm coming my way....:laugh:Quote:
Originally Posted by Alastair
Shall we compete to see who gets the furthest into the 1st stage?! :cry:
Forgive me farther for I am about to sin...Quote:
Originally Posted by jesus in the seat of a 5
Fire or belt... Place your bets here folks:laugh:Quote:
Originally Posted by Blot
I hope your bringing A healthy supply of spares Blot!
:rob:Quote:
Originally Posted by Alastair
Did sombody say bet ?:p
I rev mine over 7k on the o.e gauge mate;) You should be ok without an idler. There is an idler tensioner setup on another c-series motor though, possibly twingo that might fit if your really stuck.Quote:
Originally Posted by Alastair
Spares :confused:Quote:
Originally Posted by Alastair
5 wheels, 2 jerry cans, a trolley jack, a lump hammer and a large crowbar.
Oh and a warm coat
Am hoping to pitch up next to Kev P with his huge team, his ex-Richard Burns WRC and his party bus and motorhome.
Blot Dingle be the name :laugh:
Just put the decals on, and fitted the mud flaps, ready to be log booked next weekend. Thought I'd share a few pictures. :coffee:
https://www.rtoc.org/boards/picture.p...pictureid=9439
https://www.rtoc.org/boards/picture.p...pictureid=9443
https://www.rtoc.org/boards/picture.p...pictureid=9444
https://www.rtoc.org/boards/picture.p...pictureid=9445
:agree: Thanks to Boris and all those who have helped me out!
I like a lot. :agree:
looks :cool:
Graphics look well mate:agree:
Loving that, Al.......Looks quality :)
Thanks guys, the decals Will give me an extra 20 BHP I recon! I can get copies as required for the Coupe massive, they were the super coupe cup follow on follow on series through the 90s.
Am lining up a decal protest to the stewards for lunchtime if I'm still running :sad2:
looks very :cool:
Lol, I'll draft a letter to Warner Brothers as retribution! :laugh:Quote:
Originally Posted by Blot
That looks really good :cool:
Just got a logbook, very happy!
Blot, have you had to fit a fuel tank guard? I've been told to fit an alloy tank guard? I thought they were only advisory?
Yeah, have got sump and tank guard, about 2 inch thick steel, lovely and light:sad2: was hoping not to have to run with them...
time for another blue book reading session!
Blot, good news is the sump guard is not needed, but the fuel tank guard is, page 311 (2010 blue book) para 48.10.7 "have substantial under body protection covering any area of a fuel tank exposed to running damage"Quote:
Originally Posted by Blot
although I would argue as it is recessed it is not exposed to running damage? My local scrutineer said to fit one, but also said that they are highly unlikely to check one is fitted... I'm goin to use thin plywood bonded to a thin sheet of aluminum, as advised by other competitors, but haven't had time to make one yet.
Why not go the whole hog on weight saving, make it out of mdf and spray it silver :wasntme:Quote:
Originally Posted by Alastair
Loving this project! Especially like the remote oil filter and hyd handbrake.:smokin:
How are the brakes with the rear compensator removed?
Update: Blot and I hooked up this AM in a very icy service area at croft, have to say what a nice guy and his missus too. Anyway stages 1 and 2 were lethal, 2" compacted ice. We fitted some gravel tyres on the front and toyos on the rear and gently crept round, with only a minor bump into a bale popping a spot light, good to see blot hammering round with no fear but cracked a bumper piroueting !!! By stage 3 the ice was breaking up and we dropped the hammer, and by stage 4 were setting some competetive and good times. Stage 5 was goin really well untill we though we were dragging somthing, the rear brakes locked on, then released after a few seconds!!!!!!!! So we cracked on and pushed hard. A few miles later on the back straight after a dab on the brakes before the slight left kink they locked up again at full tilt in 3rd. After a lot of catching we eventually spun big time then limped on as far as we could before retiring, forunately with no damage. An awesome day and proved the car has real potential so very happy. As we left he snow was laying thick, 2" fresh on top of the ice, but Blot was soldiering on with tweetie, good luck mate!!! I'll email you some pics of you on track my wife took!
Forgot to say we think the rear brake lines froze! There must be some moisutre in there that didn't like being sprayed with ice!!!
sounds awsome mate rather you than me in this weather!!!
looks great mate , you have done a really good job with the car:)
Just back from the pub! Thanks for the nice comments guys! Really looking forward to the drive tomorrow towing it back. Yorkshire to Plymouth, then to Bristol, then not towing to Portsmouth and back to work... Urgh.
Those 1st 2 stages were truly insane in the utter lack of any grip whatsoever!Quote:
Originally Posted by Alastair
Top day, must sort one we can do together again and set up an exclusive R5 service area
:agree: Pics would be great, am assuming they will involve us either going into or coming out of a bale/barrier/spin/arnco :laugh:
Driving with snow over the broken ice was great fun, set a couple of good times, all took a turn for the worse at start of SS7, dark, freezing, snowing. They cancelled SS8
safe trip :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Alastair
Nice pic on Ian Hardy's site, http://www.ianhardy.net/gallery/main..._itemId=101244
Keep an eye for Sally's pics of you on http://www.whatnonegatives.com/
:)
:laugh:UPDATE.
Woznaldo, rear brakes worked really well without the compensator until the below issue showed up!
Just got round to investigating the brake problem some more, it appears they didnt freeze. What happened was the Wilwood rear bias Vv has failed (i think 95% sure...) and turned into a 1 way Vv, when i removed the union to it at the M/C side the Hyd Handbrake was still pumped solid and wouldnt release, but with the union on the HyHandbrake side of the bias Vv was removed it bled all the pressure instantly and all is well with the HHM/C and the rear brakes free off...
Ive now removed the bias Vv and bridged the brake lines, just got to bleed and test in a minute, then investigate this damn bias Vv, which shouldnt fail like this! I am hoping a soft seal has gone inside as i cant think of anything else that would cause this. Anyone:confused: I intend to replace the bias Vv but am now not keen on Wilwwod ones - are Tilton any better?:eek:
As for the alternator belt issue, a new set of alternator bushes from Renault made a massive difference, but ive stuck on a campus belt and pulley just to be sure - so far so good, cheers for the steer Brigsy!:laugh:
Fixed the brakes, the bias valve is fubared...:cry: So much for Wilwood.:mad: All it took was a bridge of pipe and a bleed. I'll try and get my money back for the Vv otherwise ill strip it and look for the cause of failure. Good news is the hyd handbrake is back in play :laugh:, bad news is the knobbly gravel tyres dont look too legal...
A booger that it failed but reassuring that it wasn't frozen!
Those gravels have been great on the snow on the roads, think they might be a tad uncomfortable when back to driving on black tarmac:wasntme:
Since the brake bias Vv failure at Croft ive been in touch with Wilwood who say their equipment is not warrantied with Dot 5 fluid - so beware anyone using Wilwood products! Get yourself some decent Dot 4 stuff and you'll be OK. Ive now replaced the valve with a Tilton lever type but am struggling to get enough heat into the EBC redstuff pads on the road to set it up properly, and i just dont like them as they feel like wood on the road - have to say they are very good and consistant on track though - any suggestions on other decent pads that have a good bite from cold from anyone?:(
I've also got a suspicion my clutch is starting to go. :cry: It took a hammering last time out and getting the car on a trailer with ceased rear brakes (in a rush to clear the stage) didn't do it much good either.
I've been reading through some previous posts :study: and the next step from a Valeo seems to be a 215mm flywheel and a 4 paddle clutch from techcraft...
Quote:
Originally Posted by WADDIE
Do the later 215mm flywheels bolt straight up to a C1J? And i take it this set up uses the Valeo cover plate and release bearing? :niceone:
Ferodo ds2500 are pretty good from cold if you cna get them to fit your calipers?
4 paddle clutch on stock size flywheel is the cheapest upgrade after the valeo, should be ok on your setup.
Cheers Brigsy, i like the sound of that as it will involve less work! Although if the 215mm wheel bolts straight up and the clutches are around the same price would it be sensible to just get it done, and be over engineered as it were - unless there are any downsides i cant think of?Quote:
Originally Posted by Brigsy
:scared:
Or are they a pain to do / lot heavier?
Used them on the old cup car for sprints and they were best of the options we tried, never tried them on longer stints on track thoughQuote:
Originally Posted by Brigsy
Engine rebuilt again this week, it needed a set of rings... quaife box rebuilt after the driveshaft decided to drop it's bearings and looks like i will be ready for the Three Counties Stages Rally near Honiton on Sunday...
http://www.bdcc.org.uk/threecountiesstages.html
If anyone fancies coming along it is free for spectators, i'll see if i can finish the event this time!:laugh:
Oh and i am looking for another quick rack, the TAZ one i have has a tight spot where the pinion is bent (from new)...:cry:
Great thread mate :agree: nice work
Just been for a run up to the MoT station and dropped it off. Steering is ridiculously heavy with R888 and quick rack:laugh::laugh::laugh:.
quick rack removed as it broke after 10 minutes... the only replacement i could get was a campus 4 turn jobbie and it is pants for tight corners. Just finished at Boris' place welding up the massive hole in the zorst and all loaded up and ready for the racing tomorrow at Smetharpe!Quote:
Originally Posted by Alastair
Best of luck bud!!
Matt5@codered
:agree:Thanks Matt,
Well what a day, we arrived with dubious brakes that just wouldnt bleed to give a good feel after replacing a rear caliper, a campus steering rack and totally knackered from a week of engine rebuilding and gearbox changing. The engine had 3 miles on it :laugh:... it is now run in of a fashion :wasntme:.
Stage 1, steady run until the Tilton bias valve in the car turned into a fountain out of the top of the lever! No brakes at the rear and limped it back on the fronts :eek: Removed the bias valve and bridged the lines, a quick bleed and time for stage 2!
Stage 2 was fairly sedate, as we again couldn't get them to feel right. The following stages were ok, including a minor oil leak from the guage line, untill on SS7 we had front brake failure, one of the flexi (also brand new) lines exploded and we lost fronts at 110 mph, this involved a detour over a few tyres/fences, round a field and back on to limp back for repair and the final stage. By this time we were about 40th of 73, not bad as that included a 4 minute time penalty (navigator error - cost us 10+ places) and poor brakes all day.
The lads cobbled together a new flexi and we had 30 seconds service time left as we finished putting the wheel back on:agree::agree::agree:
Stage 8 was awesome, the first 2 chicanes we had poor brakes, but as the residual fluid burned off the brakes got better and better, and after a mile we really went for it (first time all day), needless to say we were 6th overall on that stage, 1 second off an Aston DBR9 rally car and the others were 4wd WRC cars - I was very happy with that! Just shows the car really does have some potential to do ok :smokin:
Final result: A full finish - the aim, position 37 (would have been top 20 without time penalty), lots of issues identified / solved and looking good for the next event.
The car attracted lots of attention including an ex-R5 coupe racer who was a really nice chap. Lots to do to get it ready including fixing a bit of front bumper paint but it will have to wait untill i am next in the UK...:cry: Pics in my album for those interested (in 10 mins). Awesome day out and thanks to all those that helped:agree:
Glad to hear youve had fun...ill get mine done at some point and hopefully...:dearme: get out in the car once more....:laugh:, good going buddy, sounds fun.
I found a site with a few photos of me going rather sideways and smoking all the tyres - and hoovering up a few tyres during a minor crash:laugh: Thought you might like to see - poor car :wasntme:
http://www.teltphotography.com/R-270610-73.aspx
:agree: great stuff
:)
You not doing the Tyneside stages this weekend Tony? I though you would be all over that!Quote:
Originally Posted by Blot
Hows your motor getting along?
I will definitely be doing the Croft stages again in January:agree: I think we are going to be fighting over all the second hand front bumpers over the next couple of years given our track records so far :laugh:
Just been sent a load of photos through the post... this was before the brake line popped! Thought i'd share as it isn't often you see a 5 going sideways - unless your called Blot!
https://www.rtoc.org/boards/picture.p...ictureid=12512
https://www.rtoc.org/boards/picture.p...ictureid=12513
looks amazing mate :)
:laugh: Great way of weight saving thoQuote:
Originally Posted by Alastair
Ey oop Alastair, time been taken up with other stuff and car has been sat in garage with knackered slave cylinder since May. Did actually start the car today for first time since then!
Aiming to do xmas stages again, bring on the snow!! :)
Al, I still have some video footage I took from the smeathorpe stages if you want it? Your 5 was my favorite car of the day for sure man, I liked the 100% or go home approach:agree:
Boris, cheers m8 :agree: , some video uploaded to youtube for those interested...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vTs8U4hbwcc
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SRauzqz7IZQ
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tu_mRYyemus
I like the last one as you can compare speed with the competition in the same class. It was later in the day that we really went for it (and sideways lots) as we had brake issues all morning!
Project update - Increase Ground clearance...
Having damaged my sidey at almost every event and Boris getting annoyed at repairing it we decided to have a day making a new system. The old sidey was a quality BMS item and was 90db, and fitted very nicely, we offered up a couple of after market exhausts and they all hung way too low from the DP at the front and didn't have many fixing points.
We started with what we think was a Magnex system, and removed 40mm from the front where it joins the DP, then tweaked the centre section to go around the tank heatshield without knocking and added an extra hangar, then mounted up the rear box. this needed new hangars, a tailpipe, and a minor repair!
The end result is in the pics, with the lowest point under the car the floorpan...! This means that my old BMS sidey is up for grabs if anyone is interested, just drop me a PM.
https://www.rtoc.org/boards/picture.p...ictureid=13181
https://www.rtoc.org/boards/picture.p...ictureid=13180
Just found some more footage of another stage, uploaded to U-Tube for those interested, i just like the sound of my poor old sidey :cry: want it back :laugh:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M3gjbULtIX8
Ive been doing some thinking and am considering trying to get a lower class entry for the 5 in future competitions, however i wouldnt want to spend a fortune...
As turbos times you engine capacity by 1.7 i regularly have to compete with 400bhp+ cars which i dont think is too fair against an old iron c1j...! Anyone got any suggestions for NA engines up to:
1600cc or upto 2000cc that would bolt up to my quaife box...?
Any thoughts or ideas appreciated, particularly with potential power outputs and bhp per $ thoughts too!
Al
Just fitted full efi, been for a quick test run at a bar of boostings, and have to say I am stunned! The best change I have done to the 5. Throttle response and mid range torque massively improved, much more power at the same boost, and running 15 to 20 degrees c cooler???
For all those thinking of doing it all I can say is bite the bullet, and get on with it, you won't be dissapointed. Transforms the car.
Are you going to give us any information of what EFI system you have fitted matey??
Sounds like your having great fun with the car!!
Hi Chris, still a long way to go to get the EFi up to where i was with the carb, but the initial test run today was amazing.Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris Hebden
I'll upload a few pics from my phone and post them up.... cant believe just how much more mid range torque there is, Scoff was right about the hole in the ignition map. The most bizzare change is the lower running temps - very strange, it was 15 degrees cooler and on a warmer day!
https://www.rtoc.org/boards/picture.p...ictureid=15905
And fitted:
https://www.rtoc.org/boards/picture.p...ictureid=15906
can anyone identify what model the tb is from?
https://www.rtoc.org/boards/picture.p...ictureid=15908
https://www.rtoc.org/boards/picture.p...ictureid=15907
looks a bit mondeowy
Any idea of which model Andy? I have googled it and can't see anything similar, just a plain sealed TB with a TPS as standard...?Quote:
Originally Posted by TNT ANDY
Any guesses on the fuel rail?
what manufacturer is the potentiometer on the side? might give a clue
Not sure - looks like a very basic t/b, what size is the throat and what are the measurements for the mountings for the tps?Quote:
Originally Posted by Alastair
Andy i'll have a look and post up, would be interesting to be able to source replacement parts or perhaps put a kit together/ list of part numbers for those wanting to go EFi.Quote:
Originally Posted by TNT ANDY
--------
UPDATE, just been for a run out, my old turbo let go (T28 RB), the bearings were a little rattly ad then seized, fortunately with no damage to the compressor ad engine (i was going steady beleive it or not) Nearly 9 years of punishment finally saw it off:laugh:
--------
Just fitted an ADAM L custom turbo with RB core, .42 compressor and cant remember the turbine spec off the top of my head, but it is soooooo much better! making boost at 2k and 22psi by 3.6k.... with the efi all i can say is i am stunned, the next rally is going to be interesting if i can pedal it somewhere near it's potential...:smokin:
New turbo has loads of surge though - will it hurt it - or should i fit a D/V...:eek:
Going for a r/r session when in 6 weeks when i get back from work (leave today), and about to take it out with a video camera so i can see the guages when on boost, i'll try and post up some footage later!:coffee:
Wow that sounds like the ideal turbo for a c1j. :agree:
Set up is low comp terabusi pistons and honed up liners, new renault head (full height) and corteco blue HG. Decided to check the compression as it has been breathing really heavy for a while now, results as follows:
103, 115, 103, 108 dry at WoT from 1 to 4. in Psi
Really quite low!!!
So i put 2/3 squirts of oil into the bores and re did them:
112, 120, 102, 110 - wet 1 to 4
+9, +5, -1, +2 (No3 had slow cranking speed will re-do)
Not sure what to make of these as they are pretty even, but very low, i thought the wet test would have made a bigger difference?
Any thoughts from peeps?
Ive got some new valves and guides to fit too so was going to put a piston and liner kit in and some total seal rings to try and control the heavy breathing... When i honed up the liners i think i might have taken a bit too much off them, i used a set of stones pretty much!
Thing is it is still going well and i am meant to be doing a sprint next week end...
Jesus you up for a shakedown at St Eval (near newquay) next week end?
only just seen this... FANTASTIC! love the car and all that you have done to it. it sounded lovely with the sidey on.
TOP work. real fair play pal. keep it up. :agree:
Thanks Jamie,
So anyone got any thoughts on the compression results?
Also anyone know who can supply total seal piston rings?
Al:agree:
Have tried Mike and Performance unlimited who need to know the ring thicknesses and groove depths... Can anyone confirm these?Quote:
Originally Posted by Alastair
good going al`.......whats happening at st eval my good man...i did the hillclimb school , it was fantastic....90mph into hollow bend , into second gear at karousel, up over the rise at 65 plus and round ashes bend to a straight 106mph over the finish....:laugh::eek::wasntme:, be good to catch up buddy , give us a bell when youve chance!, ps the megane was better than i gave it credit......:laugh:Quote:
Originally Posted by Alastair
Evening chaps... i need some assistance!Quote:
Originally Posted by Alastair
Mike 16v and I have been trying to source some total seal piston rings and have found the UK importer a bit unhelpful despite Mike posting him a piston to measure!
What we need to know is the dimensions of a new top compression ring, standard OE spec.
He measured it at 1.85mm, and apparently 'they dont exist'
If the ringland was worn then the 1.75mm would fit.
Does anyone have a data sheet with the OE ring dimensions they can help us out with?
Grateful for any assistance - i know some people run them so they must be available!!!
Haynes has come through,Quote:
Originally Posted by Alastair
1.75mm top
2.0mm No 2
4.0mm Oil control
Now i need to measure the depths!
Quick update, while the head is off for new pistons, liners and rings i thought it about time to fit the power steering, the 172 rack went in ok and i have raised the rear engine mount by 10 mm to clear the pipes. I intend to put the 106 electric pump behind the passenger foot rest and box it in... I've taken some pics and will upload them later, and will report back on how the steering feels!
Also gone even wider track and added more castor, this should give me more wheel to strut clearance for more negative camber without having to use spacers which give lots of torque steer!:)
Don't forget the gearbox oil to add to that list dude :smokin:
This car is awesome and I really REALLY need to go out in it ASAP :agree:
Thanks Chris, cheers for the hand with the ARB the other day, drive shaft gaiter now repaired with a jubilee clip...;) I'll replace it or get it banded properly IDC:laugh:
I've just finished the new engine build and fitted a new fuel system. It looks very shiny and sounds great. The compression was very high when turning the engine over by hand!
I also found out that the FPR is set to 4 Bar:eek: I had guessed it was set to 3:wasntme:
The power steering rack is in, and the power steering pump wiring loom is in, i just need to mount the pump and connect the pipes...
For those that are interested here are a few pics... (i know it needs a clean:laugh::laugh::laugh:)
Album here: https://www.rtoc.org/boards/album.php...pictureid=2838
https://www.rtoc.org/boards/picture.p...pictureid=2840
https://www.rtoc.org/boards/picture.p...pictureid=2834
https://www.rtoc.org/boards/picture.p...pictureid=2838
https://www.rtoc.org/boards/picture.p...pictureid=2841
Just remembered the heat shielding on the PAS pipes is silicone hose with bako foil glued in 3 layers on top with silicone sealant :laugh: Works a treat though PMT FTW. :wasntme:
looking good mate what rack are you using :scratch:
Thanks, am using a Clio 182 PAS rack. Not too much fiddling to make it fit, but I had the head off so had access...! Pump from a 106. If anyone needs more info i took a load of pics as i went along.Quote:
Originally Posted by modfather
my steering is mega heavy and have thought about pas but didnt know what choices i had, some pics would be good and more info. maybe you could start a thread up on fitting pas :agree:
Looks nicely installed mate :agree: what ecu are you using??
Yeah could do, got to fit the pump first...! I have managed to keep costs down by using the standard pipes (with a few extra bends ;) ) and joining them with compression fittings from the local Pirtec. But it all depends where you want to put the pump.Quote:
Originally Posted by modfather
Your best with a 106 pump though, everyone uses them and they are 50 squid for a good second hand unit. 172 racks are also 2.7 lock to lock so you get a quicker rack too. Wiring needs a 30 Amp relay and some decent cable, ive run mine on a switch so i can start the pump once the engine is running, but you could run it off the fuel pump relay latch for the same affect.
If you decide to do it let me know and ill give you my number.
Hey Bud. Using a R19 16v ECU with a BBPT fast chip. Same one as used here that made 240ish:Quote:
Originally Posted by Brigsy
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8rqc2uuiV6U
Plan to get mine on the RR once the new rings are bedded in.
Sweet! Can that ecu be mapped if you have the software? like the clio 16v ecu?
lookin good al...as per usual, dead jelous buddy, did ya get my texts regards november? , so nice to see work being done on the ole girl.....some real progress and inventive things there my friend.....:agree:
Same as clio ones really, most of them can if you have r-tuner software and the EPROM chip, Matt @ Code Red didn't have any luck with his version though and Henk seems to be fairly un-responsive about it too. Cheap though and does the job ;). The set up uses the r19 coil and sensors too - cheap and readily available. The TB is unusual and may even be a Jenvy, but no one seems to be able to trace it, the Fuel rail is a fabricated one and your welcome to copy it, i can take some good pics for you as required. OE crank sensor too;)Quote:
Originally Posted by Brigsy
Quote:
Originally Posted by jesus in the seat of a 5
Hey buddy, yeah were on for Nov mate, i will hopefully be in the new house by then, so you can come stay in the barn and do some decorating while i sort your brakes and engine :laugh::laugh::laugh:
Should be able to go for a blast on the moors too;) :burnrubber::burnrubber::burnrubber:
that would be great mate not sure when it would get done tho. got to get mot etc and have some fun in it before i start taking it aprt again :laugh:Quote:
Originally Posted by Alastair
wicked , al` i have booked the whole weekend off with the family....i have clearance...:laugh:...so make sure your good lady knows ...jesus is arriving...:laugh:, ta buddy , a once and for all for the cup.....lets do it buddy....:agree::DQuote:
Originally Posted by Alastair
All sorted, we can barter over a load of logs, got a log burner in the new place :laugh:Quote:
Originally Posted by jesus in the seat of a 5
Got the PAS pump in today...
PAS pump in the footwell:
https://www.rtoc.org/boards/picture.p...pictureid=2846
https://www.rtoc.org/boards/picture.p...pictureid=2845
good man , water to wine , wood to logs... its all the same for the holy one....;), i feel a list comin on....watch out ill be loaded up....you bin warned..:D, logs , old boris engine...coupe goodies etc etc... ohh an some wine..for the house warmin off course...:laugh::DQuote:
Originally Posted by Alastair
:wasntme:Quote:
Originally Posted by jesus in the seat of a 5
A good BBQ, wine, some boostings and a load of work on 5's... Sounds like a perfect weekend! I feel like i am in my 20's again :laugh::laugh::laugh: Hope my knees can take it!
I'll PM you a list of stuff buddy, and i'll see if old Boris is up for it too. I am sure a load of the Devon Massive will be around if i put on a barrel of home brew :beer::beer::beer::smokin::smokin::smokin:
:agree::D:devil:.....love it al` that would be sweet bud..a list is needed , ill get it all ready, never mind your knees lets hope my sweede can take it......:laugh:, well done buddy.:agree:Quote:
Originally Posted by Alastair
Got PAS working today, feels great when stationary in the garage, just need to source a couple of driveshafts and ill test it on the road!:agree::agree::agree:
Evening chaps, just thought i'd let you know that the power steering has transformed the 5... i went for a short blast today to bed in the new engine and was stunned by how much nicer to drive the car is with the PAS turned on, even with r888 tyres and a quick rack, so mild mannered round town!
The wide-wide track has also helped the handling hugely and it corners on rails, turn in, add boost, diff locks, and efi boosts it out of the corner, i had a lot of fun!
I tried turning the PAS off like beforev(it is switched) and i couldnt believe how much i used to have to wrestle it!:laugh::laugh::laugh:
New engine is boosting well too - zero breathing with the total seal rings in, v v happy tonight :smokin::burnrubber::burnrubber::burnrubber:
****ing hell you've done that engine already :cry: Sounds fantastic progress!
I really REALLY need some of whatever your taking Al and maybe my 5 will make it on the road again!
Its such a ballache working on it pushing it round so maybe its time to build the engine then carry on with it!
Good work Ali, now I can finish off my Saxo PAS setup on my R5. Did you get the Scenic arm to fit nicely with the extra caster?
Matt@CRM
Same as clio ones really, most of them can if you have r-tuner software and the EPROM chip, Matt @ Code Red didn't have any luck with his version though and Henk seems to be fairly un-responsive about it too.
Bloody R-tuner was a nightmare.....When I e-mailed Henk about it, the only response I got from him was where I got it from, when I told him it was from Dave Gentleman, he never responded back from all my other e-mails, I even tried again on Cliosport.
I think the unlock code had been put into it wrongly before I bought it, and so locked it out of further usage.......
Was going to give the unit and interface to Scoff to see if he could break into it.
Ali, I still have the software disc and manual to use Tewblog here I think.
Matt, I would really like a copy of the software and manual if you can sort me out? I'll happily cover your costs etc! My map seems very rich on part throttle, but drives fine! I would like to have a go at getting a new EPROM chip and borrow your interface unit, see if I can tweak my map?Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt@CodeRedMotorsports
I'll have a look at the fast chips website later on too...
Matt, yeah eventually, I'll take a pic and post it up. Very tight on the arches but the extra camber means it just clears!Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt@CodeRedMotorsports
I had the paint pen out yesterday tweaking the geometry on the drive - makes things repeatable(ish), it made a massive difference! The most awkward part was getting the ARB to fit the arms. I put the bushes in the kettle and loosened everything off and they went on ok in the end (with a bit of angle grinder help!)..
I'm guessing Williams/R19 16v ARB? Or Megane/Kangoo?
You won't find much info on Fastchips re: the R tuner.
If you send me a padded A4 size envelope with postage paid to your address, I'll pop in the post to you, I don't want anything for it.....
I'll PM you my address in a mo.
Matt@CRM.
Thanks Matt, you also guess right!Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt@CodeRedMotorsports
Fast chips website has nothing on it, I'll give it a try and see how I get on with r tuner but will probably end up with standalone ecu from scoff when I have saved up.
What steering rack you using with the saxo/106 pump? If you can re-use the HP Pipe then do, custom ones are circa 50 quid, if you need to cut it leave enough for a compression fitting ;-)
Blue Meanie #2 is going to be F7 powered so what rack out the Clio 16v or 172 (I have both) fits best is the one I'll use.
Also using scenic arms, probably 172 hubs.
Matt@crm.
Hi Al, top work so far and awesome to hear that the EFI and PAS are working well. I've got a fire damaged phase 2 172 that I will be using the front suspension from. I was going to use the std steering rack with some longer track control arms but, your success with the 182 rack has given me ideas!?Quote:
Originally Posted by Alastair
Any info and pics that you have would be greatly appreciated.
Woz
Woz, i would use the rack from the 172 with the wishbones (or scenic ones) and a decent ARB from a r19 or similar. keep the hubs and drive shafts too but they may need lengthening/shortening... Get a PAS pump and connect it up, then you get wide track, bigger hub bearings and power steering.:agree:Quote:
Originally Posted by Woznaldo
Very similar, the 172 mounts are slightly different and they need packing out with some washers/spacers. Both v similar though. Good luck with the new car, hope it comes together quick.:)Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt@CodeRedMotorsports
I'm going to use the following:
-Hubs (I know I will need to machine the strut mounts if I want to keep my Ledas)
-Wishbones
-Discs
-Calipers
-Driveshafts (it's a phase 2 so has the 2 piece RH shaft and will need to mount to the back of the C1J block some how?)
Did you ever look at fitting an engine driven pump or was there just not enough space?
Forgot to ask what you are using at the back to compliment the wider front track?
Hi Woz, yeah i thought about an engine driven pump but there is no room and i didn't want the water pump belt popping off every 2 mins. Electric Saxo/106 pump is perfect and easy to mount.
Rear end has much bigger torsion and ARBs with avo adjustables. i also tweaked the boot floor to give a bit more travel, it bottoms out at the top of the arches now not the chassis rail without the bump stops.:agree: It still feels like it cocks a wheel when cornering hard though, but not pushed the new set up too hard yet:laugh:
Just took old boris out for a run and let him have a go, i think he liked it :burnrubber: I couldnt get him out of the drivers seat:wasntme:
You might have to join an r5 inner shaft to the 172. A friend drilled and tapped both ends and joined them up with big stud, then welded it up, machined it and fitted another sleeve welded over the top, not had any issues since and it gets driven hard...!
great project bud. where did you get the total seal piston ring from?Quote:
Originally Posted by Alastair
Rings were a ball ache to source but i think Mike phase 1 16v can now source them for you, he may even have some in stock., i am not sure. He helped me out getting the sizes right etc, posting pistons to the OEM etc... He is your man, if he cant help drop me a PM.
cheers bud i will let you know how i get on.
Get some pics up Al, I want to see this new stance! ;)
Auto test at the weekend.... Jacked up coilovers as was in an old quarry gravel tyres and sOftened everything up... Had a sighting lap round the rally stage (awesome set up and event) first stage, bang! New Clio Williams driveshaft (passenger) snapped clean in two like a carrott!!! GUTTED! broke inside where shaft meets the splines for the spider... It is going back!
Where can I get some proper shafts made (not too expensive though!)
Spoke to driveshaft uk today, they said they have only seen one Williams one snapped before! Option to have a custom one made up from a much stronger material, so I am going to have to bite the bullet. Waiting for a price... I just worry that the other one will go next time I play on gravel, apparently wheel spin on wet/ loose stuff followed by grip on Tarmac is the killer...
bob is very helpful, can't recommend them enough, they are even coverig postage for the return of the snapped one so they can see where it went!
Gutted for you Al but it's always a little risky when you are the guinea pig for a new set up. Going custom often means you can regain the spring in the shaft which helps resist the sudden changes in torque load.
Shaft changed, 15 mins start to finish, well happy. Then topped the oil up and been out for a blast. New stronger shaft seems to be holding!
Been thinking about saving up for some propper suspension, proflex/ohlins etc. Ive only seen one r5 with remote reservoir dampers but cant remember which project thread it was on - can anyone remind me?
Also new decals on the 5 now... pics to follow (thanks mike :-) )
Hoping to get into my ECU soon, anyone got an old windows laptop they dont use lying around?
All sounds very promising Al, as for suspension, I'm pretty sure the project is DK DEVELOPMENTS.Quote:
Originally Posted by Alastair
Here's the link: https://www.rtoc.org/boards/showthread.php?t=3088
Just thought i would update this thread for info in the future, the last rally day went really well, the wide track, extra castor and camber all came together round the tight chicanes with the power steering, we were really flying and the new engine and EFi (read actual throttle response) made a big difference too.
Then the engine stalled when sideways going round a tight hairpin and the TDC sensor had what itself, we got a new sensor fitted and when we started it up the clutch was making an awful sound, so it is engine out to find the problem!
Anyone with a 215mm flywheel handy please can you drop me a line!!!
so you want a flywheel as well as a tdc lead....:laugh:Quote:
Originally Posted by Alastair
Ahhh do the saint has other goodies lurking? I'll drop you a pm!Quote:
Originally Posted by jesus in the seat of a 5
As usual it was Jesus that helped out on the day by finding a spare TDC sensor in the parts warehouse he calls his loft!!!
WOW, TECH CRAFT ARE REALLY HELPFUL!!! If you need help or a clutch call them!
Waddie: I've been using the same clutch as haz and scoff cerematalic 4paddle clutch from techcraft...mines roughly putting out 220-235 and 220-230lbft i use it every day or so...and its fine at 20-25psi drives nice with the long arm throw that the volvo 440t offers....i had a sachs and a valeo clutch and both didn't last 2weeks even after pod. bout 300quid down the drain plus fitting....give techcraft a call!.... if your running a 215mm flywheel then take down these notes when you call...7.62mmx215mm a paddle sprung center ceremetalic plate with spline to fit clio172 input shaft. 01926 403721 ps the older 440 460 480 turbo's use 200mm flywheels later 1's use 215mm
Options are as follows:
Valeo 200mm cover and centre plate paddle 200 ish
Clio cup motorsport cover (215mm) and helix sprung 4 paddle - 400ish
Motorsport ally bespoke clutch and matched flywheel, 400lbft capable - 900 OUCH
So can afford the latter, if i can squeeze a 215 pressed cover plate onto my c1j 200 flywheel that seems the best option.
Apparently the reverse torque will be what killed it downshifting into chicanes!
Funny you mention Techcraft, been on the phone to them today to see if they can help with my clutch, dead helpful bunch:agree:
On the lookout for a closer or close ratio gearbox for a reasonable price i came across this extract from Clio16v forum, although the source document is already on the site it is a useful summary for anyone looking into JC5 gearbox ratios:
How to use?
- select the proper gearbox number on the Final torque ratio table (for example: JC5-014)
- the 2nd column of this table shows the final torque ratio (4.067)
- the 3rd column of this table shows the "ratio sign" (D)
- the "ratio sign" shows proper row of the selected gearbox on the gear and torque ratio tables (0.324, 0.537 / 3.091, 1.867 etc)
https://www.rtoc.org/boards/picture.p...pictureid=4170
https://www.rtoc.org/boards/picture.p...pictureid=4171
https://www.rtoc.org/boards/picture.p...pictureid=4172
Otherwise it is group A internal gear sets for 1500 upwards :cry:
Anyone know of a grp A gearbox for sale ....? Dont need the diff just the gear set!:cry:
So by my reconing the
JC5 014 = Williams, and has a v low 1st and close ratios all the way up with a bit of a leap to 5th.
JC5 053 = R19 16V, longer 1ST same 2-4 as Williams and shorter 5th.
Can some one sanity check that for me - am am having a blonde day!
Thinking the 053 will better suit my needs with a taller 1st, and shorter 5th, then put my diff in with a rebuild and hey presto???
Another useful soundbite from the manual:
The JC5-XXX boxes use a tapered roller bearing on the input and output shafts as opposed to roller ball types in the JB3-XXX. They also use a strengthened mechanism and clutch housing, have slightly different setting out of the input and output shaft lines, use wider teeth internals and the ratios are more suited towards 2.0 16v units to but apart from that the casings and differentials yes are pretty much the same.
Smashed my clutch - got it out today. Cover (Valeo 200mm) seems perfect, not sure what caused this - any ideas from the RTOC massive? This is a sprung centre OMP paddle..... Release bearing seems OK and fortuntely the flywheel looks fine too. Not sure where the rest of the paddle is, but it smashed the TDC sensor on the way out!
https://www.rtoc.org/boards/picture.p...pictureid=4194
https://www.rtoc.org/boards/picture.p...pictureid=4193
Done a good job of breaking that al :D
LOL yeah you should have heard the noise! Any idea why it went? Perhaps the pressure plate distorted on a down shift and gripped one paddle more than another?Quote:
Originally Posted by Brigsy
What to do? Fit a 215 paddle to my flywheel or new of the same with a helix centre plate?
Do all paddles have really thin metal holding the paddles to the sprung part?
you're having a blonde day, work out the speed in each gear and rev drop into the nextQuote:
Originally Posted by Alastair
check the outer springs on the cover make sure one hasnt snapped? maybe this would cause uneven pressure snapping one paddle?
I can't recall the gearbox number/code now, but see if you can sniff out a gearbox from an R11t - For some reason (Friday afternoon parts bin raid probably) Trusty had said gearbox in situ & it made for a cracking trackday 'box.Quote:
Originally Posted by Alastair
Was definitely a closer ratio/different FD than what was in my old Raider's gearbox, which probably helped made Trusty feel quicker than what it should've been, given the (v limited) engine tweaks.
all my friends to have had the same problem with the omp….
http://img11.hostingpics.net/pics/598800IMG0337.jpg
http://img11.hostingpics.net/pics/219683IMG0338.jpg
ratios are the same as GTT, just a 4.09 rather than 3.73 final drive.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mart
Pascal - thanks for that, ive ordered a Helix/AP replacement and will be getting a new valeo cover. If you hadn't spoken up that this has happened to you and friends then i would have spent a lot more on another, bigger clutch so many thanks!
Mart - great info thanks!
Andrew, thanks for the sanity check!:ashamed: I still haven't sat down and done some tables...! I cant find the ratios for the later jc5s though either (172/182). Basically i want the car to max out at 120 mph at 6.8k and have a longer 1st, then a close set up to 120 mph, and that i can drop my diff into. Time is not on my side though as every time i start to look in any detail i get distrcted by a heavily pregnant wife :laugh::laugh::laugh:
Am i best just getting a 172 JC5 box (i am sure you told me ages ago that is the way forward for my needs :laugh:) - but being blonde i can never be sure! :agree:
I would like to do some tables and compare the different boxes out there though, it would (perversely) satisfy my curiosity!
172/182 have the same ratios as williams, the only odd one is PH1 172 (078?) and that has a 3.89 final drive.
There isn't really anything with a tall 1st, 172 is about as good as it gets. There is still a big drop 1-2. I tried a low diff (4.83?) to avoid using 1st, I didn't like it, too much changing gear.
i've got an r11 box in mine, lasted 5 years too! may swap it over for a std GTT box but have had bad experience with them and broke 4 in a year and a halfQuote:
Originally Posted by Mart
Have you still got the low final drive Andy? :coffee:Quote:
Originally Posted by Andrew Cooke
Took the 5 out for a drive for the first time in ages today - loved it. Also fitted the lamp pod on for a pic or two...
Must get the front bumper sorted one day - alway hoovering up tyres! :laugh:
https://www.rtoc.org/boards/picture.p...pictureid=4874
You can also see the wider track at the front with this pic, but it is a lot more noticeable from the rear....
definetly wider, looks fantastic mate. :agree::agree:
Evening all... thought id post up a short update...
I fitted a new turbo today as i am hillclimbing at the weekend, a GT2554RS, with a .64 back end and .8 compressor... I took it for a spin over Dartmoor and WOW :eek::eek::eek::eek::eek::eek:
Relentless is not the word, once it gets on boost it is just amazing, hitting the limiter in every gear and i had a blast with the wet tarmac and the hydraulic handbrake :laugh:
Only snag is it is a bit laggy for rallying, but would be amazing for the strip or proper track.... so im going to have to part with it. :cry:
ive got a new Tomcat to go on, .49 back end and a .7 cold side. Hopefully that will spool up a bit faster ???
.49 hot-side might help the spool-up mate. As would advancing the cam timing, and/or mappable ignition.
Thanks Mart, i know they do a .49 rear housing for them but they are a funny exit bolt pattern and about 150 quid.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mart
Cam has been advanced for a bit more torque on tight chicanes, i don't ned all out power really. TBH the EFi was fuelling well but the bigger back end could do with a tad more ignition advance to get it spooling up as you suggest :agree:
The wheels look very modern compared to a Tomcat wheel design, very posh indeed! I am tempted to try and find a second hand .49 rear housing that will fit though, i have a .49 from my old GT28RS in the garage but the bolts are seized and i haven't got time to faff with it if it isnt going to fit...
I'm behind the times - I didn't know you had efi! :ashamed:
In that case, try lean-spooling the blower to see if that helps matters.
I'd certainly try all that before junking the blower. Tomcat turbos are old hat now, and (re)fitting one is taking a big step back, imho.
Adam L should be able to help source a .49, or Owen Dev's, Turbo Dynamics, Turbo Technics, etc.
LOL, ive been EFi for a year or so Mart:laugh: The AFR were mid 13's as it spools and then 12.5-12.9 on mega boost. I didnt take it past 19 PSI but that was enough, just phenomenal, an animal. Fighting the torque steer with the quaife and PAS was fun. It is mapped to 22 so plenty more to go, but i didn't want to push it too hard.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mart
I hear you WRT getting the .49 on and trying it, that was what it is mapped to originally. I am racing at the weekend so need to get the tomcat on ASAP, IIRC they boost by 3.5-4k ?
My last turbo was GT25RS with a machined .35 rear and a .42 compressor (not sure on the trim i need to measure it) - that was a torque monster and i loved it, but it did run out of legs at high rpm and olny lasted a few months....:cry:
Like I said mate, I'm behind the times :o :D
Aii, my other suggestion was to see if a machined out standard T2 back-end would do the trick.
Are you allowed to run NOS?
Not allowed any gas mate, apparently it isnt safe :laugh:Quote:
Originally Posted by Mart
Not sure why my last turbo went bang (millers oil and all spot on mechanically) so it is going back to Owen Developments for investigation.
the .35 back end had a big crack in it :laugh: That might have been half the problem.
Good (or too much) oil pressure? That crack probably didn't help spool matters :D
I'm sure you could 'hide' the funny gas, akin to the grp B S4...allegedly ;)
Mmmm well oil pressure is 45-50 psi on the guage and i didnt put a 'restrictor' in (small bore JIC adaptor). I thought they were a myth?:confused::confused::confused: Perhaps that killed it?Quote:
Originally Posted by Mart
Glad my old efi setup was good in the end :agree: worth every penny :smokin:Quote:
Originally Posted by Alastair
Possibly. I know BB cores are a bit funny when it comes to high oil pressure - Whether ~3bar is defined as high pressure is another matter though, but defo worth asking Owens (or the such like) for their opinion.
attention failure on my part, yes I still have it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Alastair
This has to be the best balls up of pictures on the RTOC for a long time :laugh:Quote:
Originally Posted by Alastair
Either that or Al & Boris have been flashing the cash :scratch:
Unfortunately for me it isn't my or bens Porsches! Lol !
Most of the pics in this thread got jumbled up when we lost the site... Shame as there were some really useful ones and I don't have copies any more!