painting the car white

I am starting to get the ball rolling paint wise, questions about paint, me and a mate are painting the inside and also the engine bay, not to fussed on perfect finish, that money will be spent on the outside.

My kid did his whole inside just with rattle cans and clear coat, my pall wants to use cellulose paint to paint it with. Thats what he used to paint his last two cars.

Could someone explain the paint differences, cellulose, water based, two pac etc?

The car is a 91 in glazier white, i think the code is 389?

Can you still buy this colour, or is the a new fresher white to buy, i see alot of people have painted dimond white, or an audi white :confused:

Sorry for being a bit thick

phil

ive always been told that for a garage spec job with no spray booth etc that 2pac paint is the easiest to go for, i believe cellulose is quite difficult to spray and requires a very good finish from the gun.

Im only learning at the moment but thats my initial understanding.

does 2 pac not require masks and ventilation etc. I think its harder to buy to.


Where is dave when you need him,

phil

If you get the breathing gear in order then 2 pack is the easiest option, assuming you wont have an oven to bake it in etc. It'll be nicer to flat and polish up afterward too. It's not hard to buy really.

no oven, explain how its easier please.

phil

Quote:

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Originally Posted by philg

no oven, explain how its easier please.

phil

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Well, easier because:

1 you don't need an oven
2 it goes off pretty quickly minimising the time dust has to settle in it
3 it's relitively easy to paint compared to other types
4 it's easy to polish up afterward if it's a good brand and not some 5 ltrs for £30 crap.
5 since it's white you can paint it with a solid paint, so no clear cote required

been having a look around cellulose is supposed to be easy to paint for beginners, 2 pac requires breathing apps and an oven.

cellulose is better on older cars, 2 pac has a more modern finish :confused:

phil

cellulose is not better , its easy to correct if you fook it up in places .

Quote:

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Originally Posted by philg

been having a look around cellulose is supposed to be easy to paint for beginners, 2 pac requires breathing apps and an oven.

cellulose is better on older cars, 2 pac has a more modern finish :confused:

phil

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well no, I've just told you the opposite to both and I've been painting for some years ;)

Its true though that a lot of the older boys like cellulose, claiming that 2k gives a plastic-like finish. but really, 2k is what you want, the cellulose fans tend to be have much older cars than the GT .

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Scoff

Well, easier because:

1 you don't need an oven
2 it goes off pretty quickly minimising the time dust has to settle in it
3 it's relitively easy to paint compared to other types
4 it's easy to polish up afterward if it's a good brand and not some 5 ltrs for £30 crap.
5 since it's white you can paint it with a solid paint, so no clear cote required

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:agree: 2 pac all day long, always used it and had good results... Like has been said it'll be a doddle with a nice flat white blow over too :)

I've never used full air fed breathing apparatus, just have good ventalation and a good quality double filter mask! I suppose i depends how much you're doing!

so with 2 pac do i need to then put on a clear coat, or can i buy 2 pac with that already in the paint, like a sort of one coat?

cheers chaps ;)



phil

Quote:

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Originally Posted by philg

so with 2 pac do i need to then put on a clear coat, or can i buy 2 pac with that already in the paint, like a sort of one coat?

cheers chaps ;)



phil

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white can just be a solid, all white, no clear cotes, like I said already :)

top man scoff, so i can buy a glazier white in a 2 pac as a solid, correct?

Do or will i need a paint code.

And would you paint it a different white or keep it oem?


cheers phil

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y98.../finished2.jpg

thats 2k white straight from the gun, pure white that was.

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Originally Posted by djinuk

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y98.../finished2.jpg

thats 2k white straight from the gun, pure white that was.

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so 2k is 2 pac.

Is that a solid then?

yup, my first time painting aswell

remmber though 90% prep 10 % spray time, and any imperfections in filler etc look 10000x worse in paint

that does look canny mind :)


phil

Look to the bottom of the linked page...

Thats what it will look like once sprayed in oem white glac:)

https://www.rtoc.org/boards/showthread.php?t=6285&page=3

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Originally Posted by philg

that does look canny mind :)


phil

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do you mean canny as in rattle can spec ?

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Originally Posted by djinuk

do you mean canny as in rattle can spec ?

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Confused also, i know different people in different parts of the country use it for different meanings...

one person canny means he likes somthing

the other says it when he cant do somthing

:laugh:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by djinuk

do you mean canny as in rattle can spec ?

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http://www.geordie.org.uk/

hadawayan****eman


Looking good Damian :agree:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by djinuk

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y98.../finished2.jpg

thats 2k white straight from the gun, pure white that was.

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As in pure white straight off the scheme with no added tinters?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by djinuk

do you mean canny as in rattle can spec ?

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as in good :agree:


cheeky feckers :)

phil

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Originally Posted by clee

http://www.geordie.org.uk/

hadawayan****eman


Looking good Damian :agree:

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:laugh:

haha, cheers man..

yea pure white striaght off the scheme with no tinters

Quote:

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Originally Posted by djinuk

haha, cheers man..

yea pure white striaght off the scheme with no tinters

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I bet thats bright as ****:cool:

hehe yea man its pretty white, more than anything its cheap and easy to get the paint, and its going on my 205 gti6 track spec, so should i need to repaint anything its going to be cheap and easy :)

do you have a paint code for the glazier white or is it 389?

ive just had my bumper repainted in glacier white 389, the guy at the bodyshop told me after that there were 12 variants on the 389 colour:eek::scared::scratch:

right found a local paint supplier, so buying is no problem, i have been looking through his little colour samples, it appears there are 5-6 shades of Renault glazier white.

paint is about £22 per litre mixed or there are loads of off the shelf colours, dimond white etc for about £10 per litre. Should i buy another white, any recommendations?

How many litres should buy, im going to be doing the inside of car including doors and tail gate also engine bay. Would 3 lites be enough?

How many litres of primer to?

I have been told, primer light tac coat, then thick coat, then 2 coats of white.

Its pretty much all rubbed down now, next im treating a few areas with some por 15.

phil

that off the shelf white sounds real cheap, get pics up :)

Phil, no advice on paint here but I just need to correct you on something for my own sanity.

Glazier - A man who works with glass, like a window manufacturer or fitter
Glacier - Like an ice-shelf, a ginormous iceberg, generally white in colour

GL with the car. I love white GTTs.

Trev

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Trevhib

Phil, no advice on paint here but I just need to correct you on something for my own sanity.

Glazier - A man who works with glass, like a window manufacturer or fitter
Glacier - Like an ice-shelf, a ginormous iceberg, generally white in colour

GL with the car. I love white GTTs.

Trev

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It's not just me that gets wound up by that then? :laugh:

It's one of many on the boards here :D

hijackin for a min, what about red, how many original shades is there and what looks best, is it better in 2pac aswell and which paint type fades quicker cus reds a bitch to look after
thanks ;)

be quick if you want 2pac paint mate, theyre starting the transition to water based most paint suppliers, motor factors up here are only dealing in water based now apart from one place for 2pac and B.C.L as well for "specific" cars from now on....

load of bollocks for this environment crap really as per usual... just finished painting my 5 shell white and it looks amazing in 2pac to be honest. painted my vans for a few years with 2pac and theyve always been fine with it.

dont fancy using that water based much its a pain in the a** to deal with some times!:disagree:

On the subject of paint, what are the 'white' colour codes?

I need a few litres as I'll be doing a bareshell spray of the lowrider when the sills are like new again :D

Or is the 2pac white paint just white and not glacier, polar white etc ?

how does polar white compare to glacier white, is it brighter or cleaner?

phil

im liking reading this topic, im currently learning all about paints etc , and enjoying it a lot. please keep it updated :)

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Originally Posted by djinuk

im liking reading this topic, im currently learning all about paints etc , and enjoying it a lot. please keep it updated :)

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:agree:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by philg

how does polar white compare to glacier white, is it brighter or cleaner?

phil

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You can really only answer questions like this by liasing with your paint supplier and looking at swatches (or whatever they do).

I think Glacier white is one of the brighter/whiter of the available shades and it's Renault OE. If you're not bothered about going OE though, just choose the one you most like the look of off the shelf. If it's bright white you're after, then ask for the brightest they do!

That said, I do seem to remember someone on here painting their GTT in a whiter white than Glacier. I forget who now or what white it was or what car it came from. It did appear to be noticable but then it was a fresh repsray in a bright white, ya know...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by djinuk

im liking reading this topic, im currently learning all about paints etc , and enjoying it a lot. please keep it updated :)

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me to its ironic i was just looking into getting a spray gun to have a few goes myself on smaller bits and this thread started!!

lol there are a few, take a look at my thread regards bumpers i think.

just spoken to someone, im going to have a look at merc alpine white.

generally its mainly 2k thats used at most places, waterbased is tryin to take over but there are alot of problems with it, colour matchin bein the main one. until the manufactures can come up wit a proper solution there will always be 2k, it was supposed to phased out in summer 2008 but still goin strong. ideally you want proper breathing apparatus but a normal charcoal filter face mask will do, sayin that, i have on many occasions not used a mask, purely because condensation builds up in the mask and always seems to drip out while leaning halfway across a bonnet. heat isnt required for 2k but will reduce drying times, as will rocket a speedy hardener, but personally natural dryin is best as the paint levels nicer with time, reducing and orange peel finish.
2k primer is also alot better to use than celli and the likes as its much thicker and sets much harder. ford diamond white looks yellow compared to the others, i tend to use it when touching up white engine bays that have gone yellower with oil over time. polar white is cleaner than glacier, but there are 2 main shades of 389, a few whiter, a few bluer. you can also get commercial paints for wagons etc but generally only come in black,white, red. the paint is alot thicker so requires alot more thinners but goes alot further and with the same results, the main benifit bein priced around £40 for 5 ltrs for churchill, opposed to £32 per litre for brands such as max mayer. also always try to buy the most expensive hardners and thinners esp as a beginner, it makes for a better job to work wit and for finish. regards amounts, it depends how much is bein painted, and repainted but 3ltrs should be plenty, as there's also 1.5ltrs hardner plus up to 30% thinners so there'll be between 5-6 ltrs total. best to get enough and supply paint to the bodyshop so it all matches.

out of interest i heard to term , solvent basecoat and 2k clear..

is that basically 2k but metallics, so therefore i presume it needs the lacquer.

there is some great advice coming guys, keep it up ;)


phil

Quote:

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Originally Posted by djinuk

out of interest i heard to term , solvent basecoat and 2k clear..

is that basically 2k but metallics, so therefore i presume it needs the lacquer.

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You can get any colour you like in base coat, be it solid or metallic. Solvent base and 2k base coat same thing. With solvent base coat you dont add a hardner only thinners.

2k laquer/clearcoat is just clear 2k paint, but is a bit harder wearing. genrally if its a solid colour then you'd choose not to do it in clear over base mainly because it takes the same time to do colour as it does for laquer, thus savin time than it would to colour in basecoat first. also as a beginner, basecoat can be tricky to get full colour coverage where some areas may appear see through, and laquer is harder to judge on how thick you can apply it before it starts to run.

sweet, sounds like my tungy bumpers are going to be difficult to paint then. :P

I have some moped panels to paint in orange 2k this weekend.

Ive just started looking at larger compressors etc, as im currently only using a baby 25L.

im wanting to do a bit of painting next year and wondered a few things. im wanting to paint my bonnet the paints not awful its not bubbled with rust etc im planning on painting with 2k can i just rough up the paint theat already on it with say 800 grit or something then go straight on with high build then paint it? does it matter if i use high build out of a rattle can then flat it back before painting or do i need to use 2k primer? cheers

a friend told me high build out a can is a pain in the ass for reacting with other paints so id advise not.

yeah the more i look into this painting the more confusing it becomes im slightly put off painting with 2k now due to the health issues with it so im thinking of goin with cellulose 1k which if im right means putting on a barcoat first then priming and the painting people seem to thinking 1k requires more cutting back and polishing? do other people on here painting with 2k all use air fed respirators?

25 ltr compressor will ber just copeable for a panel, but you'll have to work slow to keep the pressure level abn will prob run constant.
regards the bonnet respray, if its mint then i know of places that would just scotch prep then paint, after all thats wat you'd do for a blend in repair but just flat bac with 800 to make sure its actually mint, any pings will show up. no need for primer unless ya rub through the paint. i only use rattle can primer when just doin tiny spots that not worth mixin 2k for. high build in a can will react wit celli based paints and i have had issues with high thinner based 2k stuff.
personally i dont see health issues with 2k doin the odd paintjob even without proper breathin gear, its not got the same chemicals as it used to. apart from years ago when practicin, all i've ever used is a 3m face mask with charcoal filters and a fair few times with just room ventilation, although i wouldnt advise as i dont know the long term effects, yet.
celi 1k isnt as thick or as hard wearing as 2k, so doesnt require as much rubbin and flattin but doesn't have as good a shine, nor as hard wearing and scratch resistant

Just dragging this up again, i should be ready for paint in a month or so weather depending.

Im currently rubbing down, i have just scotched some parts, but the car has been all kings of colours with layers, so most of the panels have been sanded, 120 then over with 400 wet and dry.

Should i go over it with a 600 or should 400 do it?

I have been told 400 is ok with 2k primer.


phil

Quote:

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Originally Posted by philg

Just dragging this up again, i should be ready for paint in a month or so weather depending.

Im currently rubbing down, i have just scotched some parts, but the car has been all kings of colours with layers, so most of the panels have been sanded, 120 then over with 400 wet and dry.

Should i go over it with a 600 or should 400 do it?

I have been told 400 is ok with 2k primer.


phil

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400 wont remove 120 that well, guide it up then rub it with a bit of 240 then 400. Some people dont finish that high I personally finish for primer on 320:)

New poster! (less than 10 posts)

just a quick one about this new water based paint which theyve started to sell.
its ****e!!
it maybe ok for the pro's in there vented booths, but for us who r doing it in a dusty garage its a nightmare!
it basically doesnt dry for bloody hours and u cant speed it up with heat.
that means that dust will still stick to it ages after uve painted, unlike cellulose which is touch dry after 20 mins in heat! also u obviously hav to wait ages to apply more coats, and if ur impatient like me ul end up with runs everywhere!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by kinzx10

New poster! (less than 10 posts)

just a quick one about this new water based paint which theyve started to sell.
its ****e!!
it maybe ok for the pro's in there vented booths, but for us who r doing it in a dusty garage its a nightmare!
it basically doesnt dry for bloody hours and u cant speed it up with heat.
that means that dust will still stick to it ages after uve painted, unlike cellulose which is touch dry after 20 mins in heat! also u obviously hav to wait ages to apply more coats, and if ur impatient like me ul end up with runs everywhere!

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Thats why you dry it with cold air :p Water based piant is just exactly the same to paint as 2k or base coat, but it requirs air too dry, Thats why you can buy the special air dryers or use the air end on your air line :):laugh:

New poster! (less than 10 posts)

hello i used to be a spray painter and still do it in my spare time,
it was intresting to read these comments,
waterbase needs good air flow it drys quicker with the correct air flow than with heat belive it or not!! we use special blow guns,thats for the waterbase and of course heat for the clearcoat,
its starting to get harder for bodyshops to get solid paint now,(2 pack)
if you paint in cellouse you will need to polish all the time as it always dulls off
and each time you will actualy be removing the paint and finish is ****! it will sink in to your repairs,
i havent seen cellouse for along time,
2pack is better but again will breakdown quicker under the suns rays(dulls off)
than say a solvent or waterbase basecoat,if you are spraying in a garage go for
solid 2pack if you are handy with a gun go for solvent basecoat with 3 layers of clearcoat that will give you plenty to cut back with when polishing.(solvent drys pretty quick with heat)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by gimme5

New poster! (less than 10 posts)

hello i used to be a spray painter and still do it in my spare time,
it was intresting to read these comments,
waterbase needs good air flow it drys quicker with the correct air flow than with heat belive it or not!! we use special blow guns,thats for the waterbase and of course heat for the clearcoat,
its starting to get harder for bodyshops to get solid paint now,(2 pack)
if you paint in cellouse you will need to polish all the time as it always dulls off
and each time you will actualy be removing the paint and finish is ****! it will sink in to your repairs,
i havent seen cellouse for along time,
2pack is better but again will breakdown quicker under the suns rays(dulls off)
than say a solvent or waterbase basecoat,if you are spraying in a garage go for
solid 2pack if you are handy with a gun go for solvent basecoat with 3 layers of clearcoat that will give you plenty to cut back with when polishing.(solvent drys pretty quick with heat)

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well said i still prefer base and clear my self..... :) i am just do it in my spare time too :)

Just dragging this back up.

What size compressor should i buy for a diy paint job? a mate has told me 50ltr and 2hp will do fine.

Can anyone recommend a good brand or where to buy from? I'm sure machine mart sell them.

Phil

Sorry, skipped through the thread, what are you trying to paint, all of it in one go or sectionS? 2hp, 50 litres is okay for balloons:laugh:, only joking you'd get a panal done with that depending on gun/ setup type, before it starts to struggle and build up again. Check out Abac compressors, I'd personally go for 3hp, 100 litre to give you a little more oooomph, last thing you want is to paint say a wing then you get to the door and you run the lacquer because you haven't got enough pressure. Only my opinion of course.

100ltr is the least you want to go for

Quote:

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Originally Posted by wrightygtt

Sorry, skipped through the thread, what are you trying to paint, all of it in one go or sectionS? 2hp, 50 litres is okay for balloons:laugh:, only joking you'd get a panal done with that depending on gun/ setup type, before it starts to struggle and build up again. Check out Abac compressors, I'd personally go for 3hp, 100 litre to give you a little more oooomph, last thing you want is to paint say a wing then you get to the door and you run the lacquer because you haven't got enough pressure. Only my opinion of course.

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It would be in sections, all my panels are of the car, so do them 1 at a time, then inside of car, engine bay, door and boot shuts, then outside.

Then have the fun putting it all back together :)

phil