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Thought id upload a few pics of my perfect Raider:sad2:. ..Lots of work ahead but im sure it will be worth it. Thanks for everyone's help so far. Sure this wont be my last upload or questions. Cheers. Dougie
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It actually looks pretty solid! What's the sills and windscreen surround like?
Hi matt, the car is sound body wise and the engine needs a tune. Apart from the secondhand wiring and some broken plastics its all good. .Plenty to keep me busy over winter:)
Looks in great condition. Far bit of work to do inside; good luck.
Nice to see another 5 up in Scotland. Where was it for sale?
Looks like a good original example.
It was for sale in Ireland but still on British plates. Advert said it A1 but he was telling fibs:devil:
Is it this car H570KAJ
Because I did a lot work to that car I would load photos
of the car a my place but it's impossible and if someone says load to
Photo bucket do one😀
Sills patch worth quit and windscreen surround is from another car sorry I worked on this raider is mo's old raider from NewcastleQuote:
Originally Posted by Matt Cole
car was bought from guys in ireland. Made it homw to Scotland but thats where troubleQuote:
Originally Posted by turbo ted
1. heater fan turning wrong way. someone had wired and earth to yellow live supplying fan
2. wrong fuel filter fitted phase 1 instead of pahse 2
3. petrol gauge not working
4. speedo gauge chucked
5. leaking like a tap but traced fault to manufactured whole on inner wings.
Any history on the car would be great. before the irish guys was owned by English guy in Middlesbrough
sure with a bit of elbow grease ill get back to a1 unless you know something i dont:eek:
Mechanically car was fine when came to me but the wiring was all over the place I fitted engine loom and refitted the perc fan and wired the fog lights and made a perc fan plate in the wing that's why it's black and re wired the fog lights, re did the carb as well as it used to flood it's self and not start, fitted electric window motors and switches, the centre vents in dash was cut out for gauges I glued the centre bar back in and fitted vents, the speedo wasn't working but I fitted half speedo wire and it worked fine then, parts missing off the car I supplied and fitted flywheel cover,engine support bar,middle engine centre steady mount, phase 2 uncut long boost pipe and bracket and strap, I repaired the seats runners the passenger seat will not slide fully back,
The car drove lovely and boosted fine and body looks mint, but the floor plan has welded plates everywhere under neath and if you look under the windscreen panel in the bulk head at the heater fan it's red so to me looks like bottom windscreen panel out of another car, and the brake lines going to the back run along the floor they should run up in the centre tunnel.
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Phew, i was fearing the worst there. The cars 27 year old so expected some problems. The perc fan is fecked as fan blades are broke. new ordered . Over the weekend i plan to fit proper fuel pump/ filter bracket and deal with fuel lines. Going to resolder and heat shrink most of the cables and replace what cant be fixed. AEI plugs have been sourced as wiring is on last legs. Cars not running that well bit sluggish on boost and mid range. Everything will get delt with over the winter. Thanks for letting me.know what you have done. I was really fearing the worst there. My plan is to get everything right and then full strip and repair all the metal work and full respray ( if the funds last). Thanks again and keep in touch. Dougieà:agree:
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first job of many new fuel/ filter bracket fitted much better than ty-:)wraps
Looks a good base for a project, worth getting the bits sorted to get it back to how it should be :agree: :cool:
Looking for the following parts. if anyone can help it would be much appriciated.
1. looking for both interior plastics that go round back windows
2. looking for centre dash section with duct to heater matrix.
3.phase 2 anti perc fan
cheers
Can anyone help my identify this mount and where I would get a new one. Thanks
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Would be very lucky to find a new mount for there. Most people don’t bother with it but just helps stop gearbox moving as much. Some reason not list is the dialogy on here but will try find part number for you later on today
Thanks very much:agree:
i might have a newish 1 about somewhere bud
Perfect mate, pm me and I will give you my mobile number. CheersQuote:
Originally Posted by R5MJH
If anyone can point me in the right direction with the following issue it would be greatly appreciated. My r5 starts first time from cold, but struggles to start after it has been driven for any length of time.( If i let it get up to temp just idling then switch off it starts right away). There is a strong smell of fuel. The car does this if it has been driven hard or just an easy drive. Fitted new leads, spark plugs, dizzy cap and rotor arm. Could driving it cause a build up of excess fuel in carb and flood it?
Firstly, start off with a carb rebuild. Kits and guides available from this very club!;)
Once rebuilt, get the fueling checked and set up. An air fuel ratio gauge/meter can be used to do this.
Is the anti-perculation fan working? The 5 gt is notorious for hot starting difficulties. The fan was a half way fix from Renault. Make sure it's working but appropriately fused.
Part number 6001006934Quote:
Originally Posted by dmiller1
Still available Dale?
cheers Dale
Me again, cars getting stripped this weekend so I can do all the repairs over winter. I know this is a long shot but does anyone know if you can get replacement rad fan motors. Looking for as close as oe. Not really wanting the slimline ones available in various sites. Cheers
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/L%C3%BCft...53.m1438.l2649
See if that works for you else will post the German link, you will need to speak to them about postage if you are interested
Thanks Dale. That looks the business. Is it a straight swap?
Retaining clip at front of blade then splits apart from blades. Then replace, not done myself though do have both new fan and motor
Nut holding the blade on is a reverse thread.
Once again looking for advice, I am about to remove the dashboard out to repair and also change the heater matrix. Since I have the coolant out I was going to change the water pump as well. Finding an oe complete water pump is proving tricky. I can easily source the half section with impeller. Has anyone else done this? as is leave original oe half that bolts onto engine and just replace seal and impeller section. I have found a complete water pump by Quinton hazzell ( with metal impeller) but heard mixed reviews about the quality of the parts.I know certain sites are selling other pumps but steering clear of anything made in China. Any help would be much appriciated. Dougie
The half you normally get is the half you need! The other half is just the housing that bolts to the head.
As long as the mating faces are clean and a new gasket and bolts are used, it should be fine. 😁
Cheers Matt
Does anyone know where I can get these terminals? They are out the original connectors blocks that sit on both drivers and passenger footwells. I have tried all the usual suppliers but no luck at all.Attachment 31882
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You could try and find them in these catalogues:
https://www.digikey.co.uk/
https://www.mouser.co.uk/
http://uk.farnell.com/
https://uk.rs-online.com/web/
https://www.maplin.co.uk/
If you do get a supplier and part number, perhaps you could post it here.
Renault will/would have sold them most likely, just depends if they are NLA now and finding the correct part numbers. There is a section in Dialogys on connectors if I remember correctly but we dont have that page on the site. My copy of dialogys is on a old computer but if I get time I will try and dig it out and get a screenshot. If you have a friendly main dealer they may be able to help, most dont seem to be that interested though.
Edit - Just thought there is that chap on the FB pages and eBay who makes reproduction looms, Juan Racing Parts or something like that ?. Maybe drop him a message.
Thanks for all the help. I have managed to track down the parts I will post manufacturer and part number once it's confirmed. Thanks again
Great work Doug! Maybe we could do with a list of connectors and part numbers on here. ;)
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After being told they don't stock them and spending all night online, I found them the first place I looked...RS components. Result
Good stuff. As the minimum order quantities are high perhaps the club shop could stock them and sell in smaller quantities ?.
the parts are made by TE Connectivity part numbers 170289-1 (female), and 170222-4 (male). The RS Part Numbers are 7121646 (female), and 7198854p (male). Thought id put up incase the pictures ever get removed. cheers
Good find :)
Is there an easy way to get them out of the sockets?
And then the crimping part of fitting crimp sockets can be frustratingly slow and with a messy result.
My five needs them all replaced. How many per car, whole pack of 50 of each gender?
Hi Ian, the connector blocks I removed from the donor car have 2 blocks with space for 13 terminals and one block with 20. That was just for drivers side, so 46 terminals needed of each male and female. To remove them I used a watch screw driver as my pincer driver was too big.
To remove the male plug, push the screw driver along the top of the blade . As you push it in it will push down the retaining clip on the blade and you should be able to pull it out.
To do the female terminal , push your driver in the slot the male blade would go once you push it in about 15mm the retaining clip should drop and you should be able to pull it out.
Hope this helps, the first few times it's awkward but you soon get the hang of it.:)
With regards to crimping them, I plan to buy proper crimping pliers for non insulated terminals.
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You can buy a proper set of tools for releasing the connectors from the connector block, having used a similar set from Laser I can say they work well.
https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/lase...inal-tool-set/
£10 :eek: They would be about £300 from RS !! I might buy a set just in case I ever need them!Quote:
Originally Posted by dmiller1
Thanks for that :)Quote:
Originally Posted by markg
£63, however, is cause to pause and think. Just need one or two of them for a one off use.
Stick with the watch screwdriver. Works a treat £5 out of b and m;)n
Just had an email from vintage tyres .that's the original size 195x55x13 available. At £130 quid a corner I'll pass
Looking to source the main bush for gear linkage at gearbox end, load of play in the bush. Any help would be great. Thanks
Do you mean the one that's up in the gearbox or the other end that joins the rod from the gear stick?
Hi Ian, I'm looking for the one at gear box end, but if you know where to get both that would be great. Thanks
Looks like a good solid project.
A bit late I know, but you can get those terminals from vehicle wiring products or polevolt. I think the miniumum order is £10, but that an be a mix of items.
Cheers mate but got it all from rs components.
Thought I'd upload a few pictures of my lovely Raider. Did someone say " loose wire":) Damaged dash and leaking matrix are never a good combo
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Hopefully the first and last time I need to remove a Renault 5 dash. I knew the wiring on my car was bad but WOW!!!! Someone went to town with connector block and a set of snips.
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Heater box stripped in two , cleaned and put back together with new Rheostat. Thought it wise as the old one looked past it's best.
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Next job is to tackle the wiring...... wish me.lucka:eek:
Bloody hell mate you gone and done it the hard way when you remove the dash all that wiring loom says in
the dash 😬
No way I could leave the wiring in the dash. Someone had cut out all the connector blocks on drivers side and soldered all the wires together. Plus wires for toad imobillser run through everything. Decided to start from scratch and get it all right.
You could probably improve it a bit over what Renault supplied.
I had my dash and wiring out of the car and all over the lounge for a week or two while I removed the old immobiliser bodge and did it a lot better, fitting new relays for each circuit cut. There were a lot of wires from the left to right had drive conversion that ran all over the place.
One really big improvement is to stop all the big current going through the ignition key barrel switch. Instead, for th starter, I fitted a new relay near the front left headlight and then a new large red wire to that to carry the 30 Amps to the starter, the key then just operates the relay.
Did the same for the ignition ECU.
Car then started better than ever.
There is more detail in one of my articles.
Finally starting to put my car back together. Looking for advice on the horrible clunking when opening passenger door. Check strap ( car side ) hole is elongated. Got a right angled drill head and flexible drill lead but still can't get in close enough to drill square. Any ideas would be great cheers
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I would say the horrible clunk is caused mainly by dropped hinges/pins. I replaced mine last year and the doors really shut beautifully now (I should have done it years ago!) That check strap pin just knocks out from the top downwards from memory with a punch - no need to drill it.
Hi Alex thanks for the advice. The door pins are solid with no movement at all. The clunk happens when the check strap pin moves due to the elongated hole. I will use a punch to remove it and see if I can fit a bigger pin to stop it moving when opening. Cheers
Finally light at the end of the tunnel. The Raider is nearly finished. Last few bits to collect and fit. The only thing I can't get my hands on,is a gutter cap for rear passenger side. If anyone has one of these spare and willing to sell please message me. Thanks again for all the help over the last few months. Joining the sites been the best thing I have done:)
Must be a great feeling coming to the end. Time to enjoy now. ;)
Thanks Matt, going for a carb tune up next week, then detailers and that's it. I'll post some pictures soon.
Thought I'd upload some pictures since that's the car finished for now. It's been a hard slog but well worth it. Thanks to all that helped and gave advice. Special thanks to Dale aka Bigfoot, he was always a text away with loads of great advice. Hopefully at some point I'll build up the balls to drive it from Glasgow down to one of the meets. Thanks again
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That looks awesome!! Well done for all the hard work. Enjoy!!
Hi all, I am looking for some help. My Mot is due asap and my Speedo has given up the ghost. I have checked top and bottom cable of Speedo, connection at air can and gearbox end. The speedo wouldnt work but sometimes jumped into life if you tapped dash binnacle at dial. Before i strip out speedo dial does anyone have any tips. Also my temp gauge sits dead on the bottom for ages and then only comes into life after the car has been running for about 20 minutes and even then doesn't show right temp. Any help would be amazing. Thanks
Oh and my petrol gauge is stuck at the top even when you disconnect from cables. New sender and cables been fitted. Thanks again
The speedo cable is in two parts. Check the gearbox sensor. Remove, clean, check o ring and push fully home. You can do a resistance test on the sensor also. Ivory and remember the values. The other half of cable is from a joint behind the airbox if I remember correctly. Clean with contact spray. I would do a continuity test from the plug on the back of the gauges. Lastly, clean the connects on the back of the clocks. Electrical contact spray and a light rub with a little sandpaper over the contacts can work wonders.
Thanks Matt
HELP!!!!! After the cracking summer the rain has finally returned. I foolishly left the car outside uncovered and the passenger side footwell is soaked. I traced the problem to the outer door window seal. I stripped the door cards off and the water is pouring in through seals like a fire hose. Does anyone know if any companies do replacement seals. I have checked the original partsnumber but as most Renault 5 parts ( no longer available). Any help would be great. Ps just renewed my membership ,this club has been invaluable over the last year. Thanks again
Is the plastic sheet still in the door? This directed water that entered the door to the drain hole at the bottom instead of into the car. The actually door seals are available on eBay although will be pattern and sold off a roll. I'm not sure on the profile the gt uses but it wasnt anyrhing unusual.
Hi Matt, I watched the water run down off the wiper motor and splash into door card. Original door sheets were missing I replaced with ones I cut. They wouldn't have made any difference as ran through speaker into door seal and flooded foot well. Any idea where to look on ebay
Good thread here:
https://www.rtoc.org/boards/showthre...ght=Door+seals
Renault might still have stock:
https://www.rtoc.org/boards/showthre...ght=Door+seals
Hi Matt, thanks for the messages but it's the outer window seal on door I need not the actual door seals .I have replaced them with new ones. Thanks anyway
Ah ok sorry misinterpreted your question.
Hello all, looking for some advice again. As the car is off the road for the winter I am going to get a new clutch fitted and also get the gear box removed and inspected. I have two options. remove engine and get to clutch and gearbox that way or remove subframe and do it that way. My mate would be doing the removal and fitting of new clutch and rebuilt gearbox. the labour is about half to do via the subframe. I am just worried as I have been told lining things back up can be hard if done via subframe. Any help or suggestions would be great . Cheers Dougie
I have always removed from the subframe but if concerned make plenty of marks for refit if dropping subframe ;)
Thanks DuncanQuote:
Originally Posted by Duncan Grier
Hello everyone, does anyone have an idea where I could get new OUTER front door window seals. ( the seal that sits between door and glass as it slides up) any help with this would be great .ThanksQuote:
Originally Posted by dmiller1
NLA new unfortunately. I managed to find a good used set a while back. I think that's the only option as it stands :crap:
Hello all and happy New year. I know it's a bit quiet on here now but hopefully some of you with have some advice. At my last mot garage recommended changing the front suspension and top mounts. I want to keep the car as standard as possible. When I do suspension I will be changing front and rear. Just looking for advice on best suspension and top mounts to use. Car is for road use only. Thanks
Did he mention why they needed changing? The top mounts are solid and shouldn't need changing unless they're rotten. There are some other components that might need changing/checking though, such as the bearings, rubber "donut" and top hat etc. It really depends what the fault is. If its for road use just replace whatever is needed with OE items.
Thanks for the answers. I'm meeting him next week to discuss. He might have meant components in top suspension mounts. Standard suspension would be great but all I can seem to find it coilovers. Oem parts are hard to find. Thanks again
I got suspension donuts, bearings and some other bits from Mr Auto. Came from France I recall. ;)
Hi Matt , thanks for the help. I have managed to source the suspension parts buts looking for advice regarding springs.
The suppliers have gave me 4 options and I have no idea what ones would have been originally used on my Raider the choices are
1.mid green/grey
2.mid red
3.mid red/ yellow
4 mid red/ grey.
Any help as always will be greatly appreciated
Thanks
Dougie
Doug, are all them colour codes available? I would check before you waste your time researching. Generally they will be obsolete.
However, mist people go for a "sports" spring with a 35mm drop and the torsion bar adjusted to suit. This works very well for the ph2 5gtt. Alternatively, coil overs if you want freedom of adjustment.
Thanks again Matt for the quick reply. I was wanting to keep the car as original as possible and it's only for summer road use so decided against coilovers. I have seen various shortened springs but was hoping to keep the original ride height. Thanks again for the advice
As per Matt really. I dont know of anyone who has managed to get OE springs in the right length. Common thinking is that most springs supplied are longer, perhaps originally destined for a campus or similar. To be fair half the issue is no one actually knows how long the OE springs should be as they have all compressed over the years so there is no reference. Personally I've gone for slightly lowered as I wanted to fit brand new springs. If I was going 100% OE then I would be looking to get a good second hand set and having them powder coated.
Thanks again for the advice. Think the 35mm lowering springs are the way to go if I want brand new springs. Cheers for the help
Does anyone know what this jumper is for on the back of the dash cluster. I just noticed my dash cluster doesn t have itAttachment 32514
Not sure actually? :confused:
Cheers Matt hopefully someone will know
Hello All, does anyone know where I can get a new swirl pot pipe that connects to water pump parts no 6001021088. Any help would be great.thanks
Dale Jarvis might.
Perfection is not from this world,Quote:
Originally Posted by dmiller1
and cars not a museum piece of arts, so it always got some weird scratches, odd dents etc.... just depends how picky you are..:D
it's true that some people don't spot "those little details" and it looks very good in pictures though.
I wish you good luck with yours! we had in common that my first one was also a "Alain Oreille".
Take care!