Finally starting on my gt project

i Picked up the car today, travelled 6 hrs round trip, i bought it of a rtoc member speebly, i enquired about the car months ago but decided against, combination of needing painting, distance, wrong engine etc.

Anyway he pulled the prima lump out and put the car up for sale as a rolling shell. Left a deposit and here we are.

The car is a white phase 2 on a j plate, i think all the old mots, and folder full of receipts. The car is stripped as he had planed to use it as a track car. So that gave me a chance to have a good neb in the car from inside. I have no plans of refitting trim, plastics etc as my main purpose will be track and Sunday blasts. He advertised the car as a good shell, which is pretty much what it is, all undersealed, its had a bit welding done a new rear quarter on and 2 doors with new hinges. The car basically need a bit tlc and a nice paint job. The c/l works fine and the elec windows have been removed which has also saved me a job.

The car has good brakes and pads all round, 2 new back shocks and a scorpion exhaust.

What i plan to do, i can not decide weather to do a 172 conversion or the 1.7 volvo jobbie, both have there pluses and minuses, so any input would be great. I'm a bit concerned the 2.0 might be a bit heavy up front for doing track days in, i had a good chat with James and have been in contact with both scoff and ashy, so thanks very much guys. The 172 would be the preferred choice, just fining all the bits is a bit of a nightmare.

I have been considering buying a cat c 172, you can pick them up for about 1k, so most the parts i need will be there. Problem is the conversion is alot easier with a phase 1, and they are all getting on a bit now, so would prefer a phase 2 with around 60k miles on it.

What is the best way round to do things basically i want a painted car in and out including engine bay, cage and some new buckets and the the engine conversion, then have a look at the handling, bushes and coilovers.

I presume strip, then paint, then engine and then put it all back together again.

I am looking for some parts so will get a little list going on this tread aswell as in the wanted section.

I will get a few pictures up tomorrow chaps.

phil

After a bit of a look round, im going to need a tailgate, looked ok from outside but rusting inside, some rear lights, i take it the campus ones are the same?

I made a start yesterday, headlining out, took the seats and belts out and started the tedious job of chipping all the sound deadening up.

After thats all done going to see i can cut a bit more out of the doors and inside.

I will take some pics today, now the suns out.

phil

here are a few pictures, rear bumper, seats and front grill are up for sale, im looking for original parts

Looks like a decent base to start off with:agree:

nice project pal , keep it up:)

At last you've got one!! As discussed I thought my 5 was great on the track in NA form when it went round Knockhill and Rockingham :)

Nice winter project tho, hope you've got a space heater in that garage!

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Originally Posted by Ashy

At last you've got one!! As discussed I thought my 5 was great on the track in NA form when it went round Knockhill and Rockingham :)

Nice winter project tho, hope you've got a space heater in that garage!

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so under steer was not to much of a problem? I had a chat with james and he said his was terrible on the corners.

The cold does not bother me, i work outside all year round :cry:

phil

Quote:

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Originally Posted by philg

so under steer was not to much of a problem? I had a chat with james and he said his was terrible on the corners.

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He only did about 10 miles with that engine in tho!

come round have a drive of mine (when I get it back on the road)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Ashy

come round have a drive of mine (when I get it back on the road)

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:burnrubber:

give me a shout when back on the road :)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Ashy

He only did about 10 miles with that engine in tho!

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:laugh::ashamed: so true done just under 300 miles in it and just wasn't for me prob would have been alot better with the willy wide track fitted.

You can convert a phase 2 engine to run as a phase 1 as that is what I did.

Good luck with the project keep the updates and pics flowing :D

dash out today, thanks for the help ashy, after scratching my head :scratch: and alot of swearing, 2 mins on the phone to ashy and it was out in about 10mins. Fecking top clips :(, removed the heater matrix to.

So the car is pretty bare now, next job is, a bit of swiss cheesing, remove windows then rubbing it all down ready for priming :D

Good crack mate, big screw driver down the vent did the trick then :)

Glad you're making progress, I'll let you know when I'm up and running again :agree:

Update, i have all the sound deadening up and the reside it leaves behind, having fun with the grinder on all the little spots of rust on the inside.

Any tips on whats the best way to rub the inside of the car down with all the nooks and crannies?


I also am thinking about cutting the section under the bonnet out i guess its called part of the bulk head, it the part with the bonnet catch. I see alot of guys have done this, will it affect the rigidity of the car up front? I had planned on trying to get a r5 bonnet to fit with the 172 lump by raising the top of the bonnet up 1 inch or so onto bonnet catches just to try and get the engine in. If is a no no i will have to buy a 16v style bonnet :(

phil

Update, i have pretty much got the inside ready, a few little patches are going to get welded. I have rubbed grinded and wire brushed the whole inside, the good paint is all now scuffed to.

Im going to get my por 15 on next so will get some more pics up soon.

One question, im a bit worried that it may be 4-6 weeks before i get the inside painted, i was thinking of putting a coat of primer on just to protect the exposed metal work. Will rattle can primer effect the painting in 2pac, or will it all need rubbed down again?

primer doesn't really protect against moisture ingress so better to put off any bare-metal stuff until closer the time. It'll be better than nothing though. the rattle primer won't bother 2pack :)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Scoff

primer doesn't really protect against moisture ingress so better to put off any bare-metal stuff until closer the time. It'll be better than nothing though. the rattle primer won't bother 2pack :)

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Bit late for that now :D, right get a few tins tomorrow to cover the metal that i have exposed.


cheers scoff ;)

update got the cars inside treated with por 15, thanks jrp a little does go a long way :). I mainly stuck to the areas that had the rust but i got carried away and decided to put a layer of it on the floor to.

I treat round the rear windows as they were suffering a little to, cut a bit of metal out the doors and tailgate ,and got a quick coat of primer on the roof.

Quick rub down the weekend then a quick lick of primer.

Good work matey, prepping interior for paint is a patience tester at best of times!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by philg

Update, i have pretty much got the inside ready, a few little patches are going to get welded. I have rubbed grinded and wire brushed the whole inside, the good paint is all now scuffed to.

Im going to get my por 15 on next so will get some more pics up soon.

One question, im a bit worried that it may be 4-6 weeks before i get the inside painted, i was thinking of putting a coat of primer on just to protect the exposed metal work. Will rattle can primer effect the painting in 2pac, or will it all need rubbed down again?

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You should not be putting normal primer on bare metal, its needs to be an etch primer of some description. Even etch out of a can will do.:)

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Originally Posted by rs250nut

You should not be putting normal primer on bare metal, its needs to be an etch primer of some description. Even etch out of a can will do.:)

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its etch out of a can i have bought ;)

A bit of an update, i bought a full safety devices cage a month or so ago along with a new grill and rear bumper from cgb. Cage is pretty much fitted now.

Plates were welded in then primed, i have also started to rub down under the bonnet. All the body parts are now at work so i can get them all rubbed down when i get a chance.

I started with the bumper today.

Here are a few pictures.

phil

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I hopefully have a pair of black corbeau revolutions coming my way, going to get some red 3" omp 4 points to.

I will then plate the mounts and eye bolts and dummy fit the seats.

I can not decide how to paint the cage ie in or out the car, because the dash needs to go back in. I think probably fit the back bit and paint in car, then dash then fit front bars.

I do fancy painting the cage black.

What do you guys think black or white cage?


Phil

getting there mate well done keep it up:)

Looking realy good phil. Paint the cage black, White and black contrast so well, but then I am biased! :laugh::agree::smokin:

Id do the cage white meself, will look good either way though mate:agree:

Update.

I'm going to re due parts under the bonnet, i forgot the metal ready :cry:

Hats of to anyone who does this for a living, I'm getting sick now, still it will be worth it.

tell me about , ive been restoring mine for over a year now , wow its hard work:)

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Originally Posted by gtmatt

tell me about , ive been restoring mine for over a year now , wow its hard work:)

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Don't tell me that, im ready to chuck in the towel now.

phil

As always with this car its one step forward and two back.

Got my seats yesterday, dummy fitted to mark for mounts and eye bolt plates, and they don't bloody fit. Gutted :cry:

I went for the excel version because i did not want to be shoe horned in, im 6ft and about 12.5 stone, so i will fit the standard, but just fancied a bit of movement. I had tried the excels in a mates car and liked them, never mind.

Also had a crack at rubbing down tailgate, also put clock back to 8 miles :)

phil

How come the seats dont fit mate, too wide? Im sure ive seen a set fitted in a gtt before

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Originally Posted by Brigsy

How come the seats dont fit mate, too wide? Im sure ive seen a set fitted in a gtt before

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Yeah to wide, they are the excels and with the cage door bars, they just wont get in. There about 1" to big. The standard seats are 6cm narrower so should be ok.

I think without the cage they would fit fine.

I was gutted, demon tweeks have took them back, even arranged a collection for the return. Tweeks were a little bit more expensive but i got a fair discount buying them with the sides and harnesses.

The service from them has been great, anywhere else and i might have been stuck with them, i suppose you get what you pay for :)


phil

Update.

Got the smaller seats, fit fine :). I get in them ok to, they are tight, but there supposed to be.

So next is, weld in some square pipes to put the seat mounts on.

I'm going to cut the old mounts out, so its nice and tidy. I think they are just spot welded in.

Then have a go fitting the doors from the campus i bought.

Should have my Volvo here tomorrow, i will post up some pictures.

Phil

Nice work Phil,coming along nicely ;).

the volvo

its done 66000 miles, should be a good start. According to the guy i bought it off, it has a richmod ecu, t5 injectors, new clutch and a bit more boost.

I guess i wont know till i pull it apart.

Came with a few spares manifold, spare head and a few other bits.


phil

I think the arrows will fit to, going to have a check :)

Arrows fit :smokin:

Had them off 4x100 et35, they need a good refurb, not sure what colour to do them silver, anthracite or gloss black.

What tyre brand should i go for, any recommendations, i know i need a 195/40/16.

I have herd the toyo 888s are the business but what they like in the wet?

I used to like my Goodyear f1s for a good all rounder.

Phil,

Don't think you can get the 888's in 195,40,16, i'd like them in 195,45,15 for my Williams wheels but they only go 50's

Toyo do the T1R's in that size

Quote:

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Originally Posted by J8TRO

Phil,

Don't think you can get the 888's in 195,40,16, i'd like them in 195,45,15 for my Williams wheels but they only go 50's

Toyo do the T1R's in that size

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What they like in the wet?


I had some Yokohama's on my old car, great in the dry, crap in the rain, then put on the f1 best of both.

Lets face it we get more rain than sun.


phil

Engine came out the car today 5hrs all in, so now to think about rebuilding or not.

I have spoken to a few members on hear and i know the clocks say 66000 miles I'm not to sure. There is a bit of history with the Volvo, but also another set of clocks reading 120000 were left in the boot. There was a spare rocker cover, ecu, head, d-cat with the car, he said they had all come of his mates car, so maybe the other clocks were out of that to.

The car has has t5 injectors they are a burn orange colour, new clutch in to, going to measure but think its a 215ml.

Had the two ecus apart to see what the richmod is, i can not see any changes in there, can anyone shed any light?

phil

Quote:

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Originally Posted by philg

What they like in the wet?


I had some Yokohama's on my old car, great in the dry, crap in the rain, then put on the f1 best of both.

Lets face it we get more rain than sun.


phil

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Phil got to be honest, mine isn't used much in the rain so cant comment, were good at Mallory though in the dry.

Good news on the engine removal, if only it took the same time to put back in!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by J8TRO

Phil got to be honest, mine isn't used much in the rain so cant comment, were good at Mallory though in the dry.

Good news on the engine removal, if only it took the same time to put back in!

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:laugh:

I'm sure i will have this car done this year, hopefully for the summer :)

Positivity will get you through! :agree: I want to see it at Mallory, thats the end of the summer, so take it as a challange! :p

Quote:

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Originally Posted by J8TRO

Positivity will get you through! :agree: I want to see it at Mallory, thats the end of the summer, so take it as a challange! :p

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The challenge will be your c1j keeping up with the b18ft matey :cooter:


phil

Mint....................challenge accepted! :burnrubber:

Dont bother rebuilding it if it was running ok before removal mate, if it aint broke don't fix it;) Haz had no probs with them at mega mileage:D

Been cracking on again today, spent the last couple of days rubbing the wax oil off the sills, they felt solid but wanted to check. I had planned on treating them with the por 15 i bough a while back.

Few pictures

secret squirrel

Quote:

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Originally Posted by JRP

secret squirrel

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wrong thread dam 111 1112 hello luis

DAM

I have also made some metal guides to mount my seats on. Should have them welded in next week.

Only a few more jobs then off to paint :D


phil

:)

Eye bolts for harnesses in and so are the mounts for the side mounts.

Just a few little bits of welding inside, get my campus doors to line up and away she goes :D

phil

Painted sills, inner arches and rear of car all with por15.

Hands are black :crap:

Spot on:agree:

That'll keep the rust at bay - nice work:agree:

Had murders with the doors, i drilled the campus doors out from 7ml to 8ml, the plan was to put 2 brass hats in the body hinge and 2 in the door hinge, IE 4 per hinge.

Drilled the doors OK with a small 90* air drill, put in the 4 brass hats, went to fit the doors and the gap between the hinge on the door is smaller and would not get in with the brass hats in.

So i then ground the tops of the hats and fitted the doors, now more like a shim, problem was when i hit the bolts through they pulled the shim part right through the door hinge :cry:

Right plan b, i got my grinder and took of a very light skim just under 1ml top and bottom of body hinge, that then gave me the gap i needed, doors on.

I had a bit of banging and lifting to do, but they have no drop and line up perfect :).

I wanted to make sure that they were right before painting the car.

Had a bit more welding done, did a bit more por15 to.

Only two jobs left then off to paint next week.:yeah:

phil

looking good mate, lot of effort gone into that :)

Tell me about it, my lass aint best pleased :)

Going to start on the engine once the car is away to paint.

Anyone have any kind off wiring diagrams for the b18ft engine?

Ashy is your car back on the road yet?

phil

last job done, put a bit of seam sealer on the floor pan and a quick lick of etch.

Last pictures of the car before she returns, Bye bye Rene :)

phil

nice 1 mate , since mines been painted i havent touched it , it will be nice to see yours when its back:)

Car went to paint on sat, my painter is looking into the new glacier colour j39 of the new megane sports, its a super gloss glacier white.

Engine dismantled yesterday, first time i have been involved with anything like this so good experience :)

I now have a million bits to replace, regrind, port + polish, lighten and balance then put all back together again :eek:

phil

Coming along Phil:agree:

Best of luck with the engine mate...........

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Wallace

Coming along Phil:agree:

Best of luck with the engine mate...........

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It is getting there, looking forwards to getting the car back, putting it all back together should be fun. Im hoping no more than a few months to get it finished, im hoping to get to the national day, i have a score to settle :satan:

How is your car comming along?


phil

Getting there too mate:agree:

Been in hospital which has slowed me right up, but i'm clucking to get it back on the road and ready for national day too.............i have at last got all my brackets etc back from the sprayers so it's more or less a case of putting things back together and a lick of paint here and there.........


Best of luck with yours mate,it's clearly coming along well, keep the pictures coming:D and hopefully we'll get to see each others in the flesh:agree::smokin:

Giving my head a bit of a polish while its all apart. Nothing crazy just smoothing it all out. Need some small bits to get right in.

Update, got all my gaskets and rebuild parts. Gearbox is still away, there was not the pick up in the box for the mechanical speedo, so that needs to be fitted.

Spent about a day polishing my head (no jokes please) with a bit of a flare, i have taken all the ports out to the gasket edge. About 2ml out in places.

Cam is away to piper to get a regrinding 279 i believe. Once back head is off to get new shims, regrind valve seats, cam fitted and set up, and the block is of to get a check over and rebuild where necessary.

Polly bushes sorted i have a full set ordered.

Car should be back from paint this week if not next, i have chosen a frozen white, not a Renault colour i know but I'm not building a OEM version am i. Its the same colour as the new rs focus.

its now dawning on me how much i still have to do, list is so long :eek:

:)

A few more jobs done, as you can see the entrance to the manifold was very restrictive compared to the gasket, it was pretty much like a bottle neck, small then bigger, I'm sure i released a few extra horses :D.

I also got the flywheel back after a lightning and balancing. It looks well sexy.


phil

Car is off to dave at sbs today to get a proper paint job :) Long story.

Long story? We've all got time.:D What happened?

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Originally Posted by TrixNFlix

Long story? We've all got time.:D What happened?

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I gave the car to frank spencer, infact his dog coloumbo has more sense than my painter.

I had seen his work, he had painted a few parts on a mate car, he said a full in and out job would be fine, he would just do it in stages. Well after about 15 trips down there over a 5 week period, he had only managed to prime, engine bay, inside of car, and boot shut, he has painted the inside and engine bay white but messed it up. It was let down after let down.

I had wanted to use dave at sbs with him being a fellow gtt lad, just its 1.5hrs to get my car trailered there.

To top it off just spoken to my recovery lad, he has double booked today, so now its tomorrow, i bet it fecking rains :sad:

This project is getting me down, i dont mind saying, every time i rely on someone else its a nightmare. A week here two weeks there. I think my plans for this summer are going to be squashed.

Come on guys cheer me up :(

Dont be down m8, its nothing compared to how you would feel if you finished the rebuild and then looked back and wished you had done it differently or more thoroughly.
Doing things right takes time, credit to you for not rushing.

Dont get down dude, your not doing to bad.
My best mate owns an old beetle it was his first car and had it on the road for about 6 months before he decided he wanted it minted. So he gave it to a guy round the corner who specializes in them. Now this guy unbeknown to my mate is a complete feckwit,this car is still not finished, and has also be stripped of all its good parts without asking the owner.:(It is now coming up to 10 year anniversary of being in the hands of this absolute mother flippin tard.
Make you feel any better Phil?:D
Your timescale and pitfalls dont look so bad now do they?:laugh:

looking ace lot further than ive got.:laugh:

Cheers guys, i know what your all saying. I had just imagined me in it this summer. I have always talked about having another 5gtt since i was 20, so its been something burning away in me to do it. Now i have the car im just a bit impatient.

A mate of mine spent 2 years building a tigra for rallying, but it looks fantastic now its all done. 35K in it mind :scared:

Good news, my afternoon valet cancelled so i got the car up to dave yesterday, had a good chat with him. Im sure he is going to deliver. The set up he has is great, not just a little back street garage, i was well impressed :).

So now im going to chase up my engine, get it back, paint it and get it ready for the car back.

phil

Gearbox is back, its had new Synchros, new bearings and ive just finished painting it today.

Should have the head and block back this week, valves reground, new piper cam fitted and shim kit skimmed to give correct clearances, the head has also been skimmed, it had not been done before which is nice to know. The block has been getting new piston rings and big end bearings.

phil

My understanding phil was not to skim the heads on these engines. For what reason have you done that for?

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Originally Posted by TrixNFlix

My understanding phil was not to skim the heads on these engines. For what reason have you done that for?

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sorry not realy a skim, its just been levelled true :)

cool :cool: mr perfection:cooter::D

Got my engine back so have been at it with the paint, very happy :)

A few more little parts to get and clean up, then put back together next week :D

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Dave this is the measurement i need mate, from the top to the bottom outer measurements of the hinge :), just want to make sure as the hinge from the torx type doors i have back on my campus may be slightly different, like i mentioned on the phone, its about 70ml?

Engine is now all built, just a few bits left to fit on.

Ordered some gaz coilovers and a set of graphics.

Just waiting on dave at sbs, come on lad ;)

looking :cool:

I am having my doubts about national day, i really hope shes ready.

I'm planning on taking 2 weeks off work when she is back and try to crack on.



phil

Youll make it aslong as the car comes back soonish. You seem to be motivated, i deffo need some of that motivation. 3 cars with only 1 on the road is not good :(

Quote:

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Originally Posted by TrixNFlix

Youll make it aslong as the car comes back soonish. You seem to be motivated, i deffo need some of that motivation. 3 cars with only 1 on the road is not good :(

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The joys of reni 5s.

Is dave any further on with a t28 down pipes, he mentioned getting something made?

Yeah the guy has made the flange for the exhaust housing, just waiting on me spining the t28's housing that i did last night, so he could see where the turbo sits.

A few more parts finished.

New coilovers, going to try them on the campus and check the momos fit before shelling out for tyres and refurb.

Car is back :D, look great.

I put the front bumper down on the grass, left it for 5mins and the wind got a hold and dragged it across the floor :(

So back up to dave to get it re-done.

I will get some pictures up soon, i have already started to put back together ;)

phil

Been a busy little bee

All rubbers cleaned and re fitted,
ariel back in,
tail gate back on,
tail gate struts on,
tail gate lock in,
tail gate trim on,
3 AARRHH rear 1/4 window brackets painted and fitted,
wipers fitted,
washer bottle and jets fitted,
heater matrix fitted,
accelerator pedal fitted,
Vin plate fitted,

:goodJob:

Good work mate, get some pics up:agree:

Been a mad day.

Back window fitted,
1 rear 1/4 window fitted,
hand brake leaver back in and fasten back up,
gear stick back in,
master cylinder and pedals in,
Campus petrol tank and filler neck taken off and fitted to gt,
back sections of exhaust fitted,

I am fecked i tell you.

Here are some pictures :)

nice work :agree:

Andy its killing me mate.

Got a nice hot bath next door to go and sooth my achy 34 year old bones. I thought my days climbing around under cars were long gone.

More to do tomorrow :(

Windscreen fitted,
a few clips brackets etc,
sub frame off and mostly dismantled ready for shot blasters.

phil

looking good phil , putting the black rubbers on makes the white look even brighter !

It does dave, i still have not had it os yet to have a proper look, it got put straight in the garage.


Subframe is all dismantled and at shot blasters.

Done a bit more painting :)

I painted the arches today with this black spray, its like wax oil but set and looks much better,
I also painted the bottom section of the bulkhead with white stone chip,
Fitted more wiring in down the drivers channel to the engine,
lights wired up and fitted both sides,
and a few more clips for the brake lines fitted.


Good day, its really coming along now :)

keep up the good work looks amazing

Sub frame back all shot blasted, primed and painted. Fitted new polly bushes all round, new ball joints and new track rod ends, build it all up tonight, looks fantastic.

New bearings to go in front hubs.

New engine mounts and brakets to, ready to get my volvo into rene :D

I also had the rear callipers shot blasted like the fronts just putting the paint on before bed.

phil

Great work phil, is the subframe a nightmare to get off etc?

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Originally Posted by benj88

Great work phil, is the subframe a nightmare to get off etc?

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Depends on the state of the car, suspension, brakes and engine need removing. If you had an A frame you could leave the engine hanging in the bay. With an empty bay it's far easier.

great work good to see another 5 being restored so well keep up the work mate :agree:

Thanks for the comments guys.

Engine has went it today with no scratching, big sigh of relief for Dave at sbs :).

We have stripped back the wiring from down the drivers side to the rear lights, speaker wire out, aux relay and aux plug.

Same down passenger side rear window wiper removed, heated glass and speaker wire.

I could have left them in but i like things done right.

Got the front shock fitted both sides, back callipers back on, new bearings in front hubs.

Problem with the drive shafts i bought them of someone and im missing the sleeve that goes onto the shaft on the drivers side. Poor campus gets it again :laugh:

What are your plans with the volvo wiring loom then Phil?

I spoke to Dave today as you know, i think i may try what he suggested and keep the battery on the drivers side, and mount the ecus in the other.

How much of the Volvo wiring is needed IE, what did you use and what got thrown out?

I know some of the wiring is for gauges etc, we are going to take that out, going for some aftermarket jobbies.

I read on billys gs install he removed the fan that circulates water through the turbo and the pump.

Someone else removed the idle control valve.

We have kept the standard gt pump for now, im still unsure what has been done to my ecu, so probably limited to 9psi anyway.

Andy how much of your fuel lines did you replace with larger, just asking because you are restricted with the fixed metal section under the car anyway?

What have you used and what have you binned Andy?

Change all of the fuel lines mate, metal and rubber parts:agree:
I took everything that i could from the loom including idle control valve.
Off my head this is the wiring i kept:
Injectors and 2 earths
knock sensor
alt live
ecu water temp sensor
throttle position sensor
afm
coil and earth
the 4 wires to take it into the cab( ign live, cranking position, fuel pump live, revs

Quote:

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Originally Posted by TrixNFlix

Change all of the fuel lines mate, metal and rubber parts:agree:
I took everything that i could from the loom including idle control valve.
Off my head this is the wiring i kept:
Injectors and 2 earths
knock sensor
alt live
ecu water temp sensor
throttle position sensor
afm
coil and earth
the 4 wires to take it into the cab( ign live, cranking position, fuel pump live, revs

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Thanks Andy, should have it all wired in tomorrow and dash fitted i hope :)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by philg

Thanks Andy, should have it all wired in tomorrow and dash fitted i hope :)

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:scared:

Dash board in,
brake lines replaced all round bar the 2 back one which looked new anyway,
brake pedal connected up,
clutch cable in and connected,
engine loom in, so my lights now work, heaters and windows etc,
Volvo loom cut back and taped up ready to fit
drive shaft re greased and fitted.

another long day, but worth it.

Back bumper on
bumper trim fitted, arrhhh, i have one thumb with no skin and one with a big blister, tar and glue was not much of a help either,
cage is in but need a few more bolts,
soldered a few wires together,
and pained another engine bay bracket.

:)

Cage finished,
doors on and rebuilt,
spoiler on,
rear number plate,
badges

Here is a few pictures.


What colour should i refurb the wheels in guys, i fancy going dark, mat black, gloss black or anthracite? :scratch:

phil

more

Taking shape now, ready for national day?:agree::)

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Brigsy

Taking shape now, ready for national day?:agree::)

---

I hope so me old mucker :)

love the cage mate how much can you pick one of these up for and how easy are they to fit :P

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by garya

love the cage mate how much can you pick one of these up for and how easy are they to fit :P

---

There was a black one up for sale on here only a few weeks back. It to was a safety device cage.

It did not have as many bars as mine, i think it was about £400.

Mine was £450 second hand, but have been told mine new would have cost £800 :eek:

Moved on a bit more, here is a little picture.

Adjusted the tortion bar got it right after 4 attempts, once the 40s went on i still had room.
Fitted most of the body panels today.
Got my wheels back from the refurb, very happy :)

Stated to mount oil cooler, just a few more jobs, buy all my hoses, then off we go :D

I bought brand new sill rubbers and front bumper strips to, its the little finishing touches that make the diffence :)

Budget is so far out the window now, I'm in to deep to start scrimping :crap:

Fitted my oil cooler and lines yesterday.

Rad fitted and loop the loop pipe.

Spal 10" fan fitted.

Just ordered my intercooler to :)

Update, i have fitted the rad, fan, new switch, piped up with a crazy loop the loop pipe. I'm never going to get the oil filter off :)

I then fitted the intercooler, 2nd one as the 1st was a bit to large and needed some trimming was needed. I had to trim the shell a little anyway where the grill clips in, and it broke my heart, sorry Dave SBS :sad2:

The intercooler would not fit behind my gt grill as i had been measuring of the campus grill so the gt did not get marked. The problem is it has another slat at the top that made things tighter. I could not get it to fit in the space and even considered moving the cooler up and fitting the intercooler at the bottom. Nightmare i had just bought all the pipes to suit :cry:.

So i tried moving the rad back a bit, it just fits nice, maybe had to move it back about 1" or so at the top, now the intercooler fits nice and high up the grill for max air flow. It is so close in there now I'm dreading the 1st oil change as it will all have to come out for the oil filter. Than god for the slimline spal fan.

I have also fitted it with the long clutch arm to so have no more that 5mm clearance on that to.

But its in and seems ok.

I then fitted all my rad pipes, combination off a couple off Volvo and a load of new silicone. All it needs now are my t-bar clamps, should be here Monday.

We will be having a going starting here on Monday afternoon :D

So petrol in today, trickle charge the battery and fingers crossed.

I must say to anyone doing this conversion, for ease, stick with the gt rad and cooler and fit a frontera or standard gtt intercooler.

I think its just me getting carried away again, this car has been burning away at me since i was 19 and it just had to be perfect :)

I'm not happy with the engine and wish i had painted the head and gearbox red and spent a bit more time on the small parts under the bonnet, but where do you stop and you have to draw a line somewhere, its not really for a show car for me and the budget has doubled to what i planned.

On a positive note overall its better that i thought it would be and can not wait to get my seats in and drive it.

I'm going to put a box in the boot that will hold speakers, sub and amp. I will have it on brackets so i can take it all out when and if it does go round the track.

I still need my oldskool whilst driving :)

Looking :cool: gayboy:laugh:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by TrixNFlix

Looking :cool: gayboy:laugh:

---

feck off :p Yours running yet?

Looks like the gay boy all by himself has finished before the 2 experts lol :D

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by philg

feck off :p Yours running yet?

Looks like the gay boy all by himself has finished before the 2 experts lol :D

---

Why are you gona be driving yours today? :cooter:

that looks properly smart matey;) makes mine look like a scrapper:laugh:

your works and superb!! ;)
look racing while keeping the aspect of origin: SUPERBE :agree:

Looks well mate:agree:

Might be worth remotley mounting the oil filter to make changes easier? the joys of fitting fmic's:cry:

that is looking very very smart mate well done look forward to seeing it in the flesh :agree:

Thank for the kind words chaps.


Briggs what is mounting remotley, lost me? :confused:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by philg

Briggs what is mounting remotley, lost me? :confused:

---

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/MOCAL-REMOTE-O...es_CarParts_SM
A kit like this phil , so you could relocate the oil filter into the wings or somewhere with space.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by TrixNFlix

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/MOCAL-REMOTE-O...es_CarParts_SM
A kit like this phil , so you could relocate the oil filter into the wings or somewhere with space.

---

I get you andy.

How does this work with the oil sandwich set up?

phil

You could probably use your existing mocal sandwich plate, and buy that blanking plate, this would fit on your existing sandwich plate where the original oil filter would be. Then your pipe work would go from sandwich plate to cooler, cooler to remote filter, remote filter back to sandwich plate. It would create a large oil pipe run.

Although if your sandwich plate has a thermostat, then your filter will not kick in, untill your plate opens up which is no good! :laugh:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by TrixNFlix

Although if your sandwich plate has a thermostat, then your filter will not kick in, untill your plate opens up which is no good! :laugh:

---

Have a look at my set up if your worried about oil, i think there are some pictures in my albums... https://www.rtoc.org/boards/album.php?u=116

I moved my filter to by the brake fluid reservior and it is much easier to change.

Bit of a standstill at the moment, as per my car wont start thread.

Today i bled the brakes, ready for the 1st trip down the street, one of the nipple at the back was broken so could only go as far as the pipe end, going to have to look at that.

I have also started to make my alloy section that i plan to put in to box the air filter.

Its been a while.

Car is now running, not great but running.

I have now replaced, plugs, coil, ht leads, battery, starter and tdc sensor.

Im now looking foe a larger pump as the car is not getting enough fuel.

Fitted my grill and some new indicators, just got to tidy back up my wiring.

A few more pics :)

Looking good Phil.................Engine bay looks sweet!!:agree:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Wallace

Looking good Phil.................Engine bay looks sweet!!:agree:

---

Thanks for that

I'm buzzing with it, the whole car is fantastic, just how i wanted it to look. I can not wait to fit my buckets and harnesses, it was the thing i enjoyed buying the most.

Just need to get it on the road soon :sad:

looks pucker matey nice and clean.;)

Had a good clean up before fitting seats, put my valeting skills to work on the dash.

Fitted my buckets and harnesses, but have not had a nice day to photograph.

I also put on a walbro 255 pump, new copper lines and larger rubber pipes.

A few more finishing touches, sand the rust of the badge best i could and fitted new bumper strips.

seats in oh la la :)

Your right Phil, they do look :cool::smokin::cool::agree:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by TrixNFlix

Your right Phil, they do look :cool::smokin::cool::agree:

---

I tell you its murder getting in the things, 35 years of age and all :D

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by philg

I tell you its murder getting in the things, 35 years of age and all :D

---

I can imagine at 35 you probably look a bit sad getting in and out of them :cooter:
:p:p:p:p:p
Selling them yet?:laugh:

Those seats look wild :niceone:

You've done a cracking job on the whole car dude. It looks brilliant :smokin:

:agree::agree::smokin:

chears guys.

Front bumpers on, grill on, wipers on. All it needs now is idle sorting and brakes blead :)

Update its been a while, car has done 420 miles before i tucked her up for the winter.

plans are to get some fancy gauges afr, water, oil etc.

Im going to start on my brakes this weekend, the disks on it have had it, i have bought some new Bendix rears with bearings, some txi brembos, wilwood callipers and some ds2500 pads. Andy is getting some calliper extenders made for me to.

Got my brake ducts fitted today, they wee made for the gts. Im not sure what type of ducting to buy? Going to look into it :)

pics anyway

How much were the ducts bud, where from?

Really nice idea, my fogs don't work anyway.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by J8TRO

How much were the ducts bud, where from?

Really nice idea, my fogs don't work anyway.

---

Merlin motorsport £40 for the pair delivered, just a bit cutting and filling alls canny :)

Phil the car is looking fantastic those calipers looks so sexy.

What gauges you thinking of getting?

Potentially my favourite 5 on here, are them 4pots newbstars? They are mint, hopefully have some on mine one day

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by James5

Phil the car is looking fantastic those calipers looks so sexy.

What gauges you thinking of getting?

---

I have been chatting with chris, about some AEM gear or zeitronix, can not decide.

I looking to have AFR, boost, water and oil pressure.

So 4 AEM gauges would look nice, or run zeitronixs with AFR, boost and inlet temps with gauges for the others.


What do you think or have experience james mate?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by benj88

Potentially my favourite 5 on here, are them 4pots newbstars? They are mint, hopefully have some on mine one day

---

Thanks for that benj, they are wilwood midilite, another member put me onto them.

I am going for larger discs, with the wilwoods and some ds2500 which i have to modify to fit.

I just hope they all go together ok :scared:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by philg

I have been chatting with chris, about some AEM gear or zeitronix, can not decide.

I looking to have AFR, boost, water and oil pressure.

So 4 AEM gauges would look nice, or run zeitronixs with AFR, boost and inlet temps with gauges for the others.


What do you think or have experience james mate?

---

I have a few gauges in mine, I do like the zeitronix's kit as it can display as you say AFR, boost, egt's etc.. on one gauge at the same time.
I have a couple of the AEM gauges in my 5 I Have the AFR, and TRU boost which is a boost gauge that is also a boost controller, I was considering getting the oil pressure gauge aswell but it's electric and I have always preffered for reliability of the mechanical type so I have stayed with my Mocal mechanical gauge which diplays oil pressure and water temp on one gauge (not that the water temp part works anymore :(. I can't fault the AEM products I have they work as they should, really easy to install and they look fantastic am still considering getting the oil pressure one in the future. The good thing about the AEM wideband aswell is that it never needs to be calibrated due to some kind of AEM modification to sensor connection.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by James5

I have a few gauges in mine, I do like the zeitronix's kit as it can display as you say AFR, boost, egt's etc.. on one gauge at the same time.
I have a couple of the AEM gauges in my 5 I Have the AFR, and TRU boost which is a boost gauge that is also a boost controller, I was considering getting the oil pressure gauge aswell but it's electric and I have always preffered for reliability of the mechanical type so I have stayed with my Mocal mechanical gauge which diplays oil pressure and water temp on one gauge (not that the water temp part works anymore :(. I can't fault the AEM products I have they work as they should, really easy to install and they look fantastic am still considering getting the oil pressure one in the future. The good thing about the AEM wideband aswell is that it never needs to be calibrated due to some kind of AEM modification to sensor connection.

---

Nice one james, sounds like the road im going to go down.

AEM looks the nuts

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by James5

I have a few gauges in mine, I do like the zeitronix's kit as it can display as you say AFR, boost, egt's etc.. on one gauge at the same time.
I have a couple of the AEM gauges in my 5 I Have the AFR, and TRU boost which is a boost gauge that is also a boost controller, I was considering getting the oil pressure gauge aswell but it's electric and I have always preffered for reliability of the mechanical type so I have stayed with my Mocal mechanical gauge which diplays oil pressure and water temp on one gauge (not that the water temp part works anymore :(. I can't fault the AEM products I have they work as they should, really easy to install and they look fantastic am still considering getting the oil pressure one in the future. The good thing about the AEM wideband aswell is that it never needs to be calibrated due to some kind of AEM modification to sensor connection.

---

Was the AEM boost contoller a hard thing to fit, does it leave alot of messy wires around?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by philg

Nice one james, sounds like the road im going to go down.

AEM looks the nuts

---

Not the best of pics but here you go

https://www.rtoc.org/boards/picture.p...ictureid=14558

nice james, you need the other aem gauge for the oil pressure mind.

Have you fitted them that way round, i thought the boost would have been closest to you for ease?


phil

No not fitted that way around I have got the AFR the closest, the boost in the middle and oil pressure at the other end, i think you are right in saying I need oil pressure but I found it hard justifying paying out £350ish notes just for the 2 gauges:eek::laugh:


I'll try and get a short video of them working so you can see what the AEM ones are like.

Started on my brakes at the weekend, had murders getting back nuts off and removing the bolts to get the caliper off. 5 mins with impact gun, job done.

Pressed new bearing in the rears. I also tried drilling out a bleed nipple on the rear that had snapped, no good, looking for another caliper.

My ferodo pads have had a grinding to modify them to fit the willwoods. I basically bought a midilte caliper unfortunately you can not get a ds2500 pad for this so i modified another pad as the patterns just the same.

Job done.

Should have extenders tomorrow, so fitting the weekend i hope :)

did you spray the side of your pad after cutting?............ your such a cleaning/style hore:D

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by TrixNFlix

did you spray the side of your pad after cutting?............ your such a cleaning/style hore:D

---

The job was done correct yes andy, i spent about 1 hr shaping the pad to run with the contour of the calliper

Rears were done last night, new discs, with bearings and some lovely ferodo ds2500 pads.

I will be also trying on the willy wheels to make sure i have enough rear bumper clearance tonight. I may also get a start on the front brakes :D

God i can not wait to get back in it.


phil

Hey Phil, did you get the TB on yet? Has it made any difference bud? :)

Honestly Trev, i could not say, engine has only done 400 miles and i have not driven it past 5000rpm yet.

I was amazed how much larger it was, here is a few pictures.

I had to make a little bracket to hold the tps in place.

I did swear a bit fitting it, it was a squeeze to stretch the silicone pipe over the thing :laugh:.

Ah, I'm glad it's all on and working bud. Maybe the real gain is at the top end like you say. A bit disappointing given that others have said it made quite a difference the their cars though. Still, for the small outlay it was always worth it the experiment and surely, the more power you run in the future, the more prudent it will have been that you fitted it :)

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Trevhib

Ah, I'm glad it's all on and working bud. Maybe the real gain is at the top end like you say. A bit disappointing given that others have said it made quite a difference the their cars though. Still, for the small outlay it was always worth it the experiment and surely, the more power you run in the future, the more prudent it will have been that you fitted it :)

---

Definitely a worth while mod, like you say, i know another member said he had noticed a quicker throttle responce from fitting one.

I just have not driven my car hard enough yet :crap:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by philg

I just have not driven my car hard enough yet :crap:

---

Puff, get ur foot down :cooter:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Ashy

Puff, get ur foot down :cooter:

---

:scared:

Update on this thread.

I have been replacing the back brakes with new bearings, new discs and a used rear calliper, with some ferodo ds2500 pads.

The fronts have been a little more tricky, wrong discs to start with but making headway now. I have bought some lancier discs and had some machining done to get them to fit.

I now have issues getting my 16" arrows to clear the front callipers, so im now measuring up for spacer either 5 or 6mm.

I will be doing a stud conversion, not sure which is the best road to go down, going to have a little search.

Williams wheels i bought for the track are also not fitting and catching the rear bumper, thats the next job after the brakes are sorted.

I have a bad feeling i may miss Mallory this year the way my luck is with the car :(

wheels

That middle picture looks well close! don't think my Clio rims on 50's were that close!

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by J8TRO

That middle picture looks well close! don't think my Clio rims on 50's were that close!

---

Thats the next job, im sure i can move the bumper back about 5-10mm.

When i first fitted the arrows with 195 45 16s they rubbed like that to, that the problem running a 50 profile tyre on a 15" alloy.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by philg

I have a bad feeling i may miss Mallory this year the way my luck is with the car :(

---

So gay :rolleyes: :D

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by TrixNFlix

So gay :rolleyes: :D

---

Feck off, you not got something wants painting :cooter:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by philg

Feck off, you not got something wants painting :cooter:

---

Yeah, your calipers need touching up! :cooter:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by TrixNFlix

Yeah, your calipers need touching up! :cooter:

---

PMSL you **** :laugh:

Yep, 7J wide 15" rims with 50 profile tyres on a lowered GTT. Rubbage!!

You should be alright on 45 profile tyres. It will look, sit and handle better too.

Moving the bumper back always looks gash - :dearme:

Then paint the Willy wheels silver with a polished lip and do away with the arrows - FTW! :agree:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Trevhib

Yep, 7J wide 15" rims with 50 profile tyres on a lowered GTT. Rubbage!!

You should be alright on 45 profile tyres. It will look, sit and handle better too.

Moving the bumper back always looks gash - :dearme:

Then paint the Willy wheels silver with a polished lip and do away with the arrows - FTW! :agree:

---

:agree:...mans a genius phil....mind reader too...;)

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by jesus in the seat of a 5

:agree:...mans a genius phil....mind reader too...;)

---

:D

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Trevhib

Yep, 7J wide 15" rims with 50 profile tyres on a lowered GTT. Rubbage!!

You should be alright on 45 profile tyres. It will look, sit and handle better too.

Moving the bumper back always looks gash - :dearme:

Then paint the Willy wheels silver with a polished lip and do away with the arrows - FTW! :agree:

---

Alright trev, i don't have much of an option as the whilly wheels are more than likely to be my track wheels thats why i bought them. 888s and slicks are always going to have a higher side wall and there is nothing close to a 45 slick or semi, so i really have to get them to fit somehow :scratch:.

Arrows are here to stay im afraid, they must be a marmite wheel alot of fellow members dislike them then lots of people love them, trust me they look great in the flesh.

phil

Hi mate.

Sorry, I forget people have different requirements to me sometimes :ashamed:

You're right, if the wheels are for track and you're going slick/non-road etc then I guess you will encounter clearance probs at the rear that you'll need to sort out. Normally in cases like yours, shaving the inner lip of the rear bumper and grinding out that protrusion in the rear quarter near the bumper mount is enough to clear road going 195's with 50 profiles on most 15's. Whether that would then be enough to clear slicks I don't know.

As for the Arrows, I like the design, I'm just not keen on bigger than 15's and I'm not so hot on them in black. It's not about what I like though :) Although I do like to give my opinion. Can you tell? :D

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Trevhib

Hi mate.

Sorry, I forget people have different requirements to me sometimes :ashamed:

You're right, if the wheels are for track and you're going slick/non-road etc then I guess you will encounter clearance probs at the rear that you'll need to sort out. Normally in cases like yours, shaving the inner lip of the rear bumper and grinding out that protrusion in the rear quarter near the bumper mount is enough to clear road going 195's with 50 profiles on most 15's. Whether that would then be enough to clear slicks I don't know.

As for the Arrows, I like the design, I'm just not keen on bigger than 15's and I'm not so hot on them in black. It's not about what I like though :) Although I do like to give my opinion. Can you tell? :D

---

I hope a bit of rubbing down on the bumper will do it. Im on that next, then fit all my gauges then a wheel refurb if i have time before ND.

As for voicing your opinion, i was aware of that just over a year ago trev ;)

And 16s in black, thats where its at :laugh:.

I actually fancy another 5 gtt, a nice standard electric blue phase 2 on some polished turbines, just dont have the room.

Been on the brakes again, calliper is off for a lick of paint. I have got my disc's back centres machined and stud hole elongated.

I have also been spending again, a full stud conversion kit with nuts, new brake pipe and bits to make lines for the front, air duct for my intakes and joining sleeves, 6mm spacers and a new shiney red omp strut brace.

Here are a few pictures of the studs, disc's and callipers on.

Its a shame my old one have come off all the time i spent on them.

Drilled spacers for retaining nut, mounted front ducts with air duct pipe, made my brake lines up but im going to have to re-do, they are to close to the calliper therefore rub on inside edge of alloy on full lock :crap:

The brake saga continues, i got the other willwood 4 pot back from painting, fitted them both to the car, brakes feel ok when ignition is off, but when engine is running they make a whooshing noise and the pedal hits the floor as per my thread last night.

On closer inspection, there was a weep coming from a braided connection at the rear, i tried to nip it up but it did not feel right, so took it apart and the threads were crossed.

I then thought i would just replace the rear section of brake pipe that was until i tried to get the pipe from the calliper. Nut was completely rounded, 11mm spanner slipping, moal grips no good, so i hacksawed the pipe and filled it down a bit and whacked on a 10mm socket, it was in super tight and when it came out it to was also threaded and the thread were damaged on the calliper :mad:.

Tapped it and fitted the new bit of pipe it all seems ok, no leeks, but giving up for the night.

I will get back on it on Saturday, so fingers crossed i should be up and running.

Brakes are finally done, pedal feels very different, they bight alot quicker but with a bit more travel on the pedal.

Car is getting insured again tomorrow so will be out putting some miles on it, all its still only done just under 400 miles :cry:

Car had a little weep from the sump which i fixed and a little leek from a rad pipe.

I removed the front struts again and lock tightned some bolts to face up over so fitting should be easier and get a better hold.

Strut brace fitted.

Back bumper was moved back a little and inside lip sanded down. Loads more room on the back now.

I have notice i have a bit of a leek from the brake compensator but only when its jammed on, should i be worried, i have it set half way and it appears not to be leaking.

Next its just go out and get some miles on it, then bleed the brakes again.

I will be starting on the hunt for a full AEM gauge set next :D

Looking good Phil

Engine bays looking nice and neat Phil:agree:

Like the idea with the strut bolts, think i may adopt this idea for mine too:D

Enjoy adding the miles mate:yeah::wasntme:

Feck,that money totals going up and up!:D

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by TrixNFlix

Feck,that money totals going up and up!:D

---

:scared::cry:

Im actually having my doubts weather im going to make nd this year to.

I had the car in for a wax oil, he noticed i have burnt a hole in my petrol tank.

Car is now up on stands again in the garage, no tank, no petrol, also the oil leak i thought was coming from the sump is not, its coming from what i think is the oil sender. I have drained all the water out the car as the rad had to come out, so im now looking into a better pipe option for the water pump.

My new rear compensator should be here soon, so another go bleeding brakes, then i need to get another 500 miles on the engine and then fit a afr gauge, boost, oil pressure and water temp :laugh:.


Its not looking good guys, i tell ya

Couple of months yet mate, you can get it done:D

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Brigsy

Couple of months yet mate, you can get it done:D

---

You think? :scared:

Im aiming to just get it back on the road in time, i think i will then just bring it down, and not bother putting it out on track.

I have barley driven it briggs and have no confidence in it yet.

Its finding the time at the moment works been busy and im looking for another car to.

This has got the makings of a Redcar to Mallory convoy with PMT's northern Service Van (AKA Brigsy!) ;)

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Big Steve - Raider

This has got the makings of a Redcar to Mallory convoy with PMT's northern Service Van (AKA Brigsy!) ;)

---

:laugh:

I have fitted 2 135* elbows for the rad, it fits great, i have had the bend the pipes a little more like 170* which has in turn narrowed the pipe a little but im sure it will be ok.

I have moved my radiator along a little as it was catching on the front engine mount.

I also took of the alternator mount and cut 10mm of the rear face so the alternator would sit closer to the block as it was nearly rubbing on the intercooler, i now have about 12mm gap so enough room when engine is moving about the mounts. I had to modify the tensioner bracket a little but all done.

I have had the oil pressure sensor off fitted some new copper dowty washers so that should stop my leak.

I just refitted the sump bolts as i never actually took it of once i noticed the oil coming from further up the block, ie the oil pressure sensor, so i still have a spare sump gasket should the leak have been from the gasket to, its hard to tell, with not alot of space in there.

I have also started to fit my oil catch can.

I whipped out a plug to see how well car is running is this ok chaps?

Oh and a new brake compensator :)

Nice one Phil. Good progress. Plug looks good, bit hard to tell in the photo, but it should be a gloden browny colour. Anything white and it's probably lean.:agree:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by MATT C Ringworm Tuning

Nice one Phil. Good progress. Plug looks good, bit hard to tell in the photo, but it should be a gloden browny colour. Anything white and it's probably lean.:agree:

---

I know mat, its a crap phone i have.

I hope to have it back on the road in the next few weeks, i have gotta do some miles in it :)

New fuel tank fitted, hand brake connected back up, brakes all bled again, oil leak now seems to be ok :)

Just to buy my gauges, box my air filter, make a heat shield, check fueling, the bring on ND :D

Good news is got the car finished of with the wax oil, bad is the car is still pulling to left while braking, there is a horrible clunking noise from the front, i suspect its the springs and the oil leek is back :mad:

Anyway here are a few pics

Oil leek sorted, it was the oil pressure sensor, i changed the large two washer and refitted then had to take it all back apart to change the smaller washer on it, ran the car with my rad mod to monitor things, looks ok.

Car pulling looks like the wishbones bushes have a bit of play on them and i had lost an anti roll bar bush, i have had to pack the wishbones with large m12 washers with a nip up nice and tight, on doing so threaded two bolts and had to get in with the grinder. New bolts needed :cry:

I have also lost the spring for my compensator, going to make a threaded bolt for it.

On a plus note, im getting nice and fit on my bike and scoff is ordering my aem gauges :D

Its been a while so here is an update.

Oil leaks were all sorted, then the gearbox failed. I have sourced another so should start to put it all back together next week, cant say i miss it the coops is great :D I'm also going to paint my gearbox red as i always regretted doing it black the last time.

I got my aem gauges from Chris, thanks again, so will be trying to get all them fitted while the engine is in bits and a bit more accessible.

Here are some pictures of my gauge mounts i made.

A bit of an update, gauges are in a work great, i would recommend the aem to anyone and chris is great to deal with. The gauges were an easy fit, im colour blind so left it to my mate dave, he was amazed how good they were.

They worked great out on track, kept an eye on everything. The 2nd gearbox seems to be ok to which is a weight of.

I had to run croft at 11psi as my ecu needed a fettle. ;) Got it back and fecing hell 16psi feels good, its hard to get exact boost pressure because the gauge jumps all over the place, but seems to top at 18psi and hold 15psi.

I need a run out with a passenger.

My afrs all seem ok at wot im getting 11.5s but its never dropped below 12 so its running nice and rich.

Good the car feels good with the extra boost :D

I just hope all my problems are behind me and i can start enjoying the car and actually get to some meets and track days.

phil

A few pictures of my gauges mounted and some stickers i decided to put on.

Im taking the car down to york next sat so i will have to see what sort of 1/4 she will run :)

Phil, the AEM gauges look awesome matey didn't realise you were pretty much getting them all:laugh:

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Originally Posted by James5

Phil, the AEM gauges look awesome matey didn't realise you were pretty much getting them all:laugh:

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Im a right fanny, if they were all different brands it would have been wrong wrong wrong, arh i need help :).

My duty cycle is at 90% now james :eek:

Looking good Phil. Them gauges might suite my interior once i get to that stage!!:crap:

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Originally Posted by philg

Im a right fanny, if they were all different brands it would have been wrong wrong wrong, arh i need help :).

My duty cycle is at 90% now james :eek:

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I know what you mean I would have loved to have kept all my AEM gauges as having all the same looks good, I will do it again at somepoint:agree:

Sounds like you have the solenoid pipes on wrong way. What boost pressure you seeing? i was seeing 24psi @ only 42% duty cycle

You use ports 2 & 3 and port 1 has the muffler on

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Originally Posted by MATT C Ringworm Tuning

Looking good Phil. Them gauges might suite my interior once i get to that stage!!:crap:

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Cheers matt

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Originally Posted by James5

I know what you mean I would have loved to have kept all my AEM gauges as having all the same looks good, I will do it again at somepoint:agree:

Sounds like you have the solenoid pipes on wrong way. What boost pressure you seeing? i was seeing 24psi @ only 42% duty cycle

You use ports 2 & 3 and port 1 has the muffler on

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As per the other thread, i cheaked and they are the right way round, car is peaking at 18psi, does the duty cycle not produce the max boost the turbo can cope with ie, mine is running at 90% of the turbos max boost?

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Originally Posted by philg

As per the other thread, i cheaked and they are the right way round, car is peaking at 18psi, does the duty cycle not produce the max boost the turbo can cope with ie, mine is running at 90% of the turbos max boost?

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90% is not right as you have no more adjustment.

Give us a pic of your AEM solenoid so i can see how it's piped up:agree:

Here you go james, port 2 (left) goes to the wastegate and port 3 (front) to the turbo and 1 is blanked.

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Originally Posted by philg

Here you go james, port 2 (left) goes to the wastegate and port 3 (front) to the turbo and 1 is blanked.

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Yeah that's alright, what boost does you actuator old without the AEM plumbed in? might be worth trying to give the actuator rod quiet a bit more preload

I messed round with the preload when first finished the car instead of using a bleed valve, the results were poor, I think I had the rod shortened by about 5-7pm and could not get an increase, someone said I must have a weak actuator.

I think I'm going to look into my bigger turbo over the winter.

Will it be causing me any problems in the mean time?

Looks great Phil.

It's this cars fault I'm back into R5 Turbo's. I saw it in an issue of Practical Performance Car that I randomly bought and that was it, I started the search for one!
It brought back memories of the old days. A friend of mine had a mint green 5 GT with Momo Arrows on it back in the day. He crashed it and didn't have much luck, then some local tuner decided to put 2 engines in it :D

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Originally Posted by little_daz

Looks great Phil.

It's this cars fault I'm back into R5 Turbo's. I saw it in an issue of Practical Performance Car that I randomly bought and that was it, I started the search for one!
It brought back memories of the old days. A friend of mine had a mint green 5 GT with Momo Arrows on it back in the day. He crashed it and didn't have much luck, then some local tuner decided to put 2 engines in it :D

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Thanks for that daz, ian sorted out the magazine features for me it was in 2 that month so i was very happy.

Its took a long time to get it to where it is now, lots of bad times and bad luck, i sometimes think this little car has been sent as a test for me for in my after life :D

You see trix and trev, oldskool arrows rock :laugh::smokin:

Good luck in your build to :)

Here is a video from the rsoc day at croft. It was my 1st run out in her so done expect blistering lap times :ashamed:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oTOoR67v1Js

Thought i would update my thread, i have been buying and fitting a few new bits.

A Garrett -34 actuator, some helper springs for my gaz coilovers and i have fitted a new boot to my draveshaft so that should finally stop any gearbox weeps.

This is all in preparation for my track days this year, only a few jobs to do :)

The car sit about 20mm higher after fitting the helpers but should be able just drop down thecollarss a bit to get it sitting as it was.


http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y247/PhilGEvo/085.jpg
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y247/PhilGEvo/084.jpg
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y247/PhilGEvo/083.jpg
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y247/PhilGEvo/082.jpg

Nice work dude, keep it up, need a catch up soon. :)
P.s. momo's suck ass!! :p

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Originally Posted by TrixNFlix

Nice work dude, keep it up, need a catch up soon. :)
P.s. momo's suck ass!! :p

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Biatch :cooter:

Just had my renewal through, its come in a £378 with hic all mods declared and guaranteed valuation of 6K

Great build, did the cage come with the mounting brackets you welded to the car or did you have them made up? :confused:

Any more pictures with the Williams wheels on? :cool:

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Originally Posted by Goobie

Great build, did the cage come with the mounting brackets you welded to the car or did you have them made up? :confused:

Any more pictures with the Williams wheels on? :cool:

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The cage came with the brackets on it. They were little plates welded onto the bottoms of the bars, 6 in total. They were all pre drilled.

Me and a friend made up the plates you see welded to the floor in the car, you need them just in case, they are suppost to give alot more support to the cage and keep it in place should the worst happen.

Sorry no more pictures of the car on the willys, i never liked them and the were a pig to fit with the 888s.

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Originally Posted by philg

The cage came with the brackets on it. They were little plates welded onto the bottoms of the bars, 6 in total. They were all pre drilled.

Me and a friend made up the plates you see welded to the floor in the car

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Yeah, I was actually talking about the plates that are welded to the car buddy. Was wondering as have seen a few people's cages fitted now with extra plates welded in hence why I asked. :)

Thought I would update this with a few pictures of my new seats, just so anyone reading this has an up to date car.

Nice mate. One of the best fives in club I reckon!

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Originally Posted by Matt Cole

Nice mate. One of the best fives in club I reckon!

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Thanks Matt :)

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Originally Posted by Matt Cole

Nice mate. One of the best fives in club I reckon!

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Sure is :):agree: