wont start after a week of hell, HELP

I'm looking for a bit of help with my b18ft conversion.

Engine is in, everything is connected.

1st day it would turn and not start but with a weak spark.
2nd day it was trying to start with a bit of a splutter, it did then run badly for all of 5 secs.

I have been plaguing Dave and Trix for answers, sorry guys :)

What is concerning me is that I'm smelling petrol but the pump is priming when turning the key back from crank to 0, is thats not normal, something wired up wrong i think.

I have got things wired up slightly different, maybe someone can help with this.

blue/brown wire / revs is not yet connected
grey wire - black connector block pass wing
grey/red - drivers foot well
blue/white is also to black connector bloc pass wing

I know that the preferred method is

blue/brown - revs
grey - ing barrel switched live
grey/red - fuel pump some where, foot well is good.
blue/white - ing barrel cranking poss

How is it i tell which wires to put to my key/ignition barrel, i read someone else had problems and they were on the wrong yellow or something.

I don't think have a working multi meter to test and have never used one before.
Could someone tell me out of the 4 ignition barrel wires which ones to use?

i need my grey wire to ing click 2 live and blue white wire to crank correct? :confused:


Sorry guys i have never done this before :)

picture

there are two yellow wires one looses power when cranking(not what you want) the other dosnt. you really need a multi meter matey as they look pretty much the same. that dosnt sound like the problem tho if it started:confused:

have you bypassed the r5 fuel pump relay? andy reckons if its not bypassed it inter fears with the fueling.

i honnestly think is fueling probs i have got, the pump is priming when turning the key to off?

Something has to be wired up wrong

defo double check that the r5 fuel pump relay is bypassed as what is happening sounds like what andy was telling me would happen if its not bypassed.

I read your pm, so how do i bypass, do i go straight onto the white wire in the fuse box?

Where is the fuel pump relay?


Im currently connected onto the large white wire in the drivers footwell.

phil

forgot to mention im using the campus engine loom.

if your lying down in the passenger foot well looking up, the fuel pump relay will be right up at the top on the left above the line of 4 relays that you can see from the front. It is long and black and has a grey oval connector. there is a thick white wire take that out of the relay and wire it to that;)

i had a problem with my r5, it fired up for about a second then wouldnt run again, just turn over again and again and again.

it turned out to be the ecu has stop controling the fuel pump relay, so we have just bypassed that and it runs fine now!

havnt seen a campus engine loom so dont know how it varies to the gtt one andy is the man for that as he is using a campus. as you will be keeping the looma seperate it shouldnt make too much difference.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by SCHWARTZ

if your lying down in the passenger foot well looking up, the fuel pump relay will be right up at the top on the left above the line of 4 relays that you can see from the front. It is long and black and has a grey oval connector. there is a thick white wire take that out of the relay and wire it to that;)

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will do this tomorrow, fingers crossed

good man:agree:

or just remove the relay, or if they have just 't'd into the fuel pump wire, chop off the bit that goes to the dash, leavin the volvo wire connected to the pump ;) i preume its a later injection model? cant remember on the wiring tho. the passeger block connector isnt renound for being very good so may be worth bypassing it. by the sounds of it, its connected to the wrong ign live, turning off during cranking then back on when you stop. take its power from the aei/ecu live.
with no multimeter it'll be hard to do any testing since most of the volvo setup is electronics, worth gettin one otherwise ya cant actually see if the ecu is receivin or givin power, as with most of the sensors, especially when it comes to fine tuning the afm for more than std boost.
also i presume you've changed the campus in tank sensor to a gtt one as the return is smaller so may not flow properly. along with the pump not providing enough.

thanks fr the help guys :)


Right had a quick look, fuel pump will live if i bypass the relay red to white, i am also getting petrol to the engine.

I tried putting the fuel pump wire to the white wire at the back of the relay, no good, even with the relay disconnected no luck.

It still primes the pump turning back from crank to 0, with out a meter I'm stumped, i have tried manually putting the connector into both of the yellow terminals on the ignition key, one primes the pump the other does not, but still in reverse IE crank back to 0.

Going to leave it for now till Dave's back on it :scratch:

we seem to also have a bad connection on the alt live red wire may this be causing some problems?

I have had the wires off it rubbed them, but sometimes not getting a strong battery light on ignition to.

could be that the battery doesn't have enough charge but without a multi meter you cant test it.
the red live that goes to the alt it the main live for the volvo loom. also check earths

My guy mentioned i have a bad connection on the terminal post which the red wire goes onto the alternator.

I have had all the earths off and checked them, bar the one right on the bottom of the block at the front.

Battery may be shagged the amount of times we have charged it, ran boosters on it and tried cranking it over. It is a new battery taken of the campus i used for bits.

thanks haz, im sure i will get it running :cry:

Yo phil. As per phone conversation you could do with taking your feeds from just below the ignition barrel as the connector of death is notoriously sketchy. As haz has said you need a multimeter to have any chance of sorting this out.Even though your colourblind, you can still find out which ignition feed is which by moving you key into each position on the barrel and seeing which wire is giving you 12v.Then just follow the wiring guide and connect the Volvo parts of the loom to the corresponding Renault parts.

Right got a meter.

12.75v on the battery, i got 12v from the alt live to.

Managed to determine which was ing 2 on the barrel, it was the one i thought, it was making the relay click and that was the one that was priming the pump in reverse, it to was getting 12v.

I then checked the crank wire on the orange wire that was giving me 10v :scratch:.

I also had the white disconnected on the fuel pump relay and ran my pump wire from this.

And guess what, still no good :(

Even when i live the pump it still does not fire.

phil

what about plugs leads all small things like that have they been changed and checked?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by SCHWARTZ

what about plugs leads all small things like that have they been changed and checked?

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New plugs in, super 4s.

I will check the leads however, i guess pulling the plugs out and looking for a strong spark on all 4?

i got those super 4's hope they are not the problem:wasntme: what is the coil like spark wise?

When Dave my mate has been looking over my car, he put on some funny looking thing on we could observe the spark in and its was intermiting, it is strong one minute then not so the next.

He has had a scope on it, no idea what that does but went through every pin on the ecus testing, in the end he thought it must be the tdc sensor, we replaced that, and that is when it did start for about 5-10 secs. But it has done nothing since.

I hoping to get him back over this week to have another look, because being honest its way over my head.

are the colours for the engine loom the same on the earlier and later volvo engines?

not sure mine is a 92, but i like your thinking.

pictures on the way :)

here we go, no good with colours, colour blind

not very clear mind, we had all the right colurs we needed, but if i rember right one was a different colour from one side of the block to another, im sures its the revs though.

right just had a look and we have 2 red and grey, i have decided to keep the lamba, which is the same coulour as the pump, is the pump wire the thick one or the small?

phil

no joy the pump is the larger.

Its still primes backward on crank to 0


phil

i havnt used the red connector as i only had the bit on the loom not the other half so i have cut the wires from it. have you double checked the wires going to the connector and coming from it match up (if you get what i mean)? also check that for bad connections. how have you wired up the alternator, starter and fuel pump as on the r5 the loom connects them together as they give each other power etc...(put very simply)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by SCHWARTZ

i havnt used the red connector as i only had the bit on the loom not the other half so i have cut the wires from it. have you double checked the wires going to the connector and coming from it match up (if you get what i mean)? also check that for bad connections. how have you wired up the alternator, starter and fuel pump as on the r5 the loom connects them together as they give each other power etc...(put very simply)

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I used the campus engine loom for the alt etc. I know the starter was on this and so was the alt, not sure on the pump though, is there a connection on there for that?


phil

where andy when you need him, probably sucking dave off telling him what a good job he did on the sleeper lol :D

:laugh:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by philg

where andy when you need him, probably sucking dave off telling him what a good job he did on the sleeper lol :D

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by philg

where andy when you need him, probably sucking dave off telling him what a good job he did on the sleeper lol :D

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:laugh:

im all outa ideas matey. Was andy haz and dave who i was asking for help. You got andys number?

mate its etched in me brain, i have rang him that much :)

Phil, I suggest you do a continuity test on your Volvo loom, sounds like you might have a break in a wire. Failing that and your positive that it's wired up right, another option is to try a different ecu and ignition module. I'm not gona give you a gobble and tell you how slow you've been with this conversion! :cooter:
I'll have some time to have a talk Tuesday night pal, just with the mrs before I ship her back.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by philg

mate its etched in me brain, i have rang him that much :)

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:laugh: yer me n all:wasntme:

My man has been back over today and had another look.

He checked all the lives and crank wires again, happy with them, he is aware of the fuel pump priming back from crank but is not to worried.

At the moment this is the problem.

His words

On the Volvo fuel pump relay, pin 85 has an intermiting fault and loses earth during cranking.

Its also has very little command to the ignition module 1.5v

Im hoping haz or chris has some ideas because at the moment mine is a jerry can and a match :mad:

He also wants to know if he can get codes out of it without it having a diagnostic socket?

phil

Quote:

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Originally Posted by philg

He also wants to know if he can get codes out of it without it having a diagnostic socket?

phil

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try speaking to scoff as well matey;)

i have done hope he can help


Just got of the phone to my man, he also said.

There are ruff wave forms between ecus, which dont pull to ground.

He is after copys of wave forms for crank sensor and the 3 wires between ign ecu and fuel ecu.

That might aswell be Spanish to me :)

Have you checked that you have 12v ignition power to the ecu *WHILE CRANKING* ? You know that there is 2 ignition lives from the barrel, right ? One is live while cranking, the other is not and is designed to power the stereo and other crap that gets switched off during cranking to conserve power. That would explain the relay un-latching as you crank.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Scoff

I don't know much about the Volvo standard loom so colours, etc mean nothing to me.

But, have you checked that you have 12v ignition power to the ecu *WHILE CRANKING* ? You know that there is 2 ignition lives from the barrel, right ? One is live while cranking, the other is not and designed to power the stereo and other crap that gets switched off during cranking to conserve power. That would explain the relay un-latching as you crank.

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Been through this with me Chris, he says his mate has wired these up correctly. he did say that hes only getting 10v though on cranking wire with his multimeter. It shouldnt be that low should it? His battery is showing high 12vs.

Whats a cranking wire ? The starter exciter ? 10v isn't so bad while cranking, maybe battery needs a bit more charge.

Is there deff 12v on the ECU power pins while cranking though ? And 0v on the earths at ALL times ? He needs to start with those 2 basic tests.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Scoff

Whats a cranking wire ? The starter exciter ? 10v isn't so bad while cranking, maybe battery needs a bit more charge.

Is there deff 12v on the ECU power pins while cranking though ? And 0v on the earths at ALL times ? He needs to start with those 2 basic tests.

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Well his mates done all the wiring for him and hes taken his ecu cranking position feed from the starter exciter wire, well im assuming hes taken it from here as hes t'd into just before the connector of death in the passenger side engine bay. Have to wait for Phil for the answer to the voltages.

Now I'm confused. The ECU doesn't need to know when the starter is running so I don't know what's been wired into the exciter wire ?

It's the ignition live's that I'm concerned with. In particular pin 18 of the fuel ECU. This should have 12v on it whenever the ignition is switched on, including while cranking. This is the pin I want him to check. There should also be 0v (ground) on Pins 5, 11 and 25.

My guess is that 12v is disapearing off pin 18 during cranking.

There should also be 12v on pins 5 and/or 6 (depending on revision) of the ignition module. He should check this while checking pin 18 of the fuel ECU.

Right your confusing me now, remember i have very limited knowldege :scared:



Pin #
Cable Colour
Description






9
Grey
To key, ACC Run position (think hes taken this to the 12v yellow wire on alt)




11
Grey/red
To fuel pump (To switch it on)




15
Blue/white
To key for cranking power (Think hes taken this to starter exciter wire)


Am i making sense?:scratch::D :disagree::agree:

No idea, I don't know about the standard colours or plug numbers. All I have are ECU wiring diagrams so he simply needs to do those very basic tests I mentioned and go from there ;)

Regards yellow alt wire, I can't be sure there is power on this wire during cranking ? As I say, there are 2 ignition live circuits. He must wire to the one that has a live during cranking, IE the yellow wire that used to go to the AEI module.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Scoff

No idea, I don't know about the standard colours or plug numbers. All I have are ECU wiring diagrams so he simply needs to do those very basic tests I mentioned and go from there ;)

Regards yellow alt wire, I can't be sure there is power on this wire during cranking ? As I say, there are 2 ignition live circuits. He must wire to the one that has a live during cranking, IE the yellow wire that used to go to the AEI module.

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Understood;) peace out :smokin:
phil you faggot, you should of just wired the fecker up like a told you too. :cooter:
Get these tests done.:agree:

http://i808.photobucket.com/albums/z...g/DSCF1583.jpg

Hope this helps phil.:)
Have i missed anything Chris?

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Originally Posted by TrixNFlix

Hope this helps phil.:)
Have i missed anything Chris?

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looks good to me :)

check the relay 85 to pin 17 on the ecu to, should be live with ign on, earth when cranking

thanks guys i will pass this info on :)

Thanks again guys, Dave has had a look at this thread and is happy with all that has been said, he has tested all off the above and everything is as it should be.

we still have a triggering issue between the two ecs.

Im not sure if you guys remember a few months back, i was not sure if i had a rich modded ecu on an old post. It turns out the chip i though was the richmod was not and not related.

It may be this is what is causing me problems. When i bought the volvo it was a runner but very bad on tick over. Maybe the car has just had some underline problems right from the start.

Andy has kindly offered to send me wiring harness and ecus, to rule things out, so will go from there.

Dave is still after wave forms from the crank if anyone has one, we know of a guy who has a volvo 440turbo local so may be able to get it of his car.

I will keep you updated :)

Phil, does your ignition module come from the same car that your loom came from ?

There are differences. Some ECU's use pin 5 for ignition supply, others pin 6. Some ECU's have these 2 pins bridged internally so that they work on either loom. Some don't.

If your ECU did not come from the same car as the loom then you should look inside the module and check that pins 5 and 6 are soldered together. If not, solder them up. :)

They did come with the car, there was a spare ecu with the car but it the silver one, which we have also tried on there.

I see, worth a shot. I guess the 2 relays are doing what they should ? The first should come on with the key, the other should click in while cranking. If they're working then it's pretty safe to say the fuel ECU is running, so you should look at the ignition module or the linking of the 2.

what is happening is pin 17 from ing computer loses its pulse at the same time as the ground is relesed from pin 17 of the fuel computor :scared: daves words :D

Quote:

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Originally Posted by philg

what is happening is pin 17 from ing computer loses its pulse at the same time as the ground is relesed from pin 17 of the fuel computor :scared: daves words :D

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edit - sorry, I mis read your last post, you're saying the pulse train disapears off the ignition module and then pin 17 is released.

Yes, that bit is normal but the pulse should not be disapearing from pin 17 of the ignition computer.

I guess the TDC is been double checked / different sensor tried and that the flywheel is still a 60-2 bosch ?

I think that on some looms the rev counter wire comes from that pin 17 <-> pin 1 wire also. Could the tacho, or it's wiring be pulling that line down ? IE, try disconnecting the tachometer wire.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Scoff

edit - sorry, I mis read your last post, you're saying the pulse train disapears off the ignition module and then pin 17 is released.

Yes, that bit is normal but the pulse should not be disapearing from pin 17 of the ignition computer.

I guess the TDC is been double checked / different sensor tried and that the flywheel is still a 60-2 bosch ?

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brand new tdc sensor was fitted on the second day off hell as this was daves 1st thought.

As for flywheel, it is the one out of the car but it has been lightened and balanced

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Scoff

I think that on some looms the rev counter wire comes from that pin 17 <-> pin 1 wire also. Could the tacho, or it's wiring be pulling that line down ? IE, try disconnecting the tachometer wire.

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Tachometer, that is the revs?

Thats not connected yet.

phil

pics

Tacho = revs, yes. Not connected, then I'm all out of ideas. Think I'd be checking loom connections one by one and trying new ECU's now.

I can't see the trigger teeth on that flywheel. Was it a volvo flywheel ?

Chris I'm probably going to need a ecu deristricting aswell, i had wanted to just get the car running put 1000 miles on her then start messing with mods.

Do you have any in stock and i guess its an exchange thing, not that you will want this thing of mine back lol :)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Scoff

I can't see the trigger teeth on that flywheel. Was it a volvo flywheel ?

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im guessing so, it came out the car, should it look different?

Normally I just modify the existing one phil since we know that it (in normal ciscumstances!) is working with the engine. I have some spare working ingition modules though.

Andy has offered to send me both modules to try and plug in, so hopefully that will do it.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by philg

im guessing so, it came out the car, should it look different?

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It should have 58 teeth and 2 missing at about 80deg after the sensor with the engine @ TDC.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Scoff

Normally I just modify the existing one phil since we know that it (in normal ciscumstances!) is working with the engine. I have some spare working ingition modules though.

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Lets see if we get it running with andys, then we can talk chris, you have me worried about the flywheel now :scared::)

Phil, have you got any pics of the other side of the flywheel, so we can count some teeth, just so thats another scenario out of the way.:D

here you go

Quote:

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Originally Posted by TrixNFlix

Phil, have you got any pics of the other side of the flywheel, so we can count some teeth, just so thats another scenario out of the way.:D

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no sorry, if that is my problem and i have to take the engine back out :mad:

Chris seems to be thinking along the same lines as my mate dave, so happy with that.

phil

have you managed to sort this problem out matey??

Andy sent me 2 ecus to try, i should have a new coil today to, lots of fingers crossed.

My mate dave has been speaking to someone about the ecus. What i did was take the black one apart to check for a rich mod months ago, i did this in the living room on the floor, i was very careful not to touch things. Now what dave has said i may have broken the ecu buy doing it on the carpet due to static, apparently is a no no to do this and some people even remove shoes and shocks when working on them.


Its a long shot but hey :)

Ecus in and a new coil, still not going.


Sick as feck if im being honnest, do not know where to go with it now.

My man dave is going to do a full test on the wiring next, im still concerened why the fuel pump is priming the wrong way round.


AAARRRRHHHHH :cry:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Scoff

Now I'm confused. The ECU doesn't need to know when the starter is running so I don't know what's been wired into the exciter wire ?

It's the ignition live's that I'm concerned with. In particular pin 18 of the fuel ECU. This should have 12v on it whenever the ignition is switched on, including while cranking. This is the pin I want him to check. There should also be 0v (ground) on Pins 5, 11 and 25.

My guess is that 12v is disapearing off pin 18 during cranking.

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I have been checking the wiring today for any signs of damage, whilst doing this i did these check again myself.

Right i have had a good check over things today.

putting my multimeter on
pin 18 im getting 12v on ignition and 10v while cranking
on pin 6 im getting the same 12v and 10v on cranking
pins 5 11 and 25 are all getting 0.04v on ignition and 0.20 on crank

Are these all ok?

dont mean to insult you or anything like that but have u got the ecu's plugged in the right way round. i had this problem and the fuel pump only primed after cranking. i didnt realise both connectors are the same. worth a try!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by adamwallace1989

dont mean to insult you or anything like that but have u got the ecu's plugged in the right way round. i had this problem and the fuel pump only primed after cranking. i didnt realise both connectors are the same. worth a try!

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I had pondered over this to, checked back to Andys diagram and the ignition ecu is on the longest point off the harness, but have tried them the other way to :)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by philg

I have been checking the wiring today for any signs of damage, whilst doing this i did these check again myself.

Right i have had a good check over things today.

putting my multimeter on
pin 18 im getting 12v on ignition and 10v while cranking
on pin 6 im getting the same 12v and 10v on cranking
pins 5 11 and 25 are all getting 0.04v on ignition and 0.20 on crank

Are these all ok?

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Within tolerance I'd say :)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by philg

here you go

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Phil, re the pico plot that dave has taken, am I right in saying that the green channel is the crank sensor, blue is pin 17 of the fuel ECU and red it the tacho pulse between the 2 modules (17 on ignition computer) ?

If so then is the relay really randomly clicking in and out while cranking as the plot suggests ?

If that's the case then maybe there is not enough amplitude from the crank sensor. I don't know why that would be but you could try shoving the crank sensor closer to the flywheel (remove one of the 2 bolts, slacken the other, push the sensor down, tighten the remaining bolt so that it's held tightly with only one bolt)

4v peak to peak seems like not a lot, even for cranking speeds. Maybe the ignition computer isn't sensitive enough to see it.

also, it's a bit hard to see at that time base but it looks like there is only 3.5 revolutions of the crank per 2 seconds on that grid, so that's a crank speed of only 105rpm. I would hope for 200rpm or more. It's widely accepted that the volvo system needs a good strong crank speed before it'll work.

A low crank speed would also account for a lower than normal crank sensor output.

b18ft clio i was doing this weekend wouldnt start due to cranking too slowly...... easy too overlook the basics sometimes :scratch:

Thanks guys i will pass this on to dave.

I will give the crank sensor thing a go :)

phil

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Scoff

Phil, re the pico plot that dave has taken, am I right in saying that the green channel is the crank sensor, blue is pin 17 of the fuel ECU and red it the tacho pulse between the 2 modules (17 on ignition computer) ?

If so then is the relay really randomly clicking in and out while cranking as the plot suggests ?

If that's the case then maybe there is not enough amplitude from the crank sensor. I don't know why that would be but you could try shoving the crank sensor closer to the flywheel (remove one of the 2 bolts, slacken the other, push the sensor down, tighten the remaining bolt so that it's held tightly with only one bolt)

4v peak to peak seems like not a lot, even for cranking speeds. Maybe the ignition computer isn't sensitive enough to see it.

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Thats bang on dave says, i have tried the bolts and no joy.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Scoff

also, it's a bit hard to see at that time base but it looks like there is only 3.5 revolutions of the crank per 2 seconds on that grid, so that's a crank speed of only 105rpm. I would hope for 200rpm or more. It's widely accepted that the volvo system needs a good strong crank speed before it'll work.

A low crank speed would also account for a lower than normal crank sensor output.

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He has checked this aswell he opened the graph up on his laptop, used a ruler point to point and is given 216rpm, which he says is a bit low but we had been draining the battery all day before the graph was taken.

He still keeps coming back to the crank sensor to, he has even said that the new one i bought could be faulty to, it was not a genuine volvo part.

He is suggesting taking a new graph on a fresh battery, or even bumping the car to get a better crank.

I know we're going right back to basics here, but the wheel is definately 60-2 ?

yeah im sure chris, he counted the teeth of one of the graphs he had for my car.


Andy is sending me his spare harness to, so a quick plug in should rule wiring out.

What is puzzling him is the 1st day on the car, it had very little signs of life, then the second day, it was turning and trying to fire, nothing had been changed we found it bizzare, that day it started for 5 secs or so. Then the 3rd day on it, its back to the way it was with very bad signals.

He is convinced i had been messing between day 2 and 3, but i had not. Day 2 it ran for 5 seconds or so, i was on the phone to rtoc/dangerous dave at the time, i had a fuel pipe split on the fuel line go in while running, so i knocked the engine straight off, then chopped an inch of the fuel pipe off and put it back on, it was at that point the car will turn but not sound like its trying to fire. Then day 3 which is when dave took the graph, with loads of things not playing ball.

Update guys


Dave messed on with my car he pushed it forward to check to see if ecus were getting better signals. He was certain that the car looked good and would more than likely bump start. Bumping is cheating he said :)

I have now fitted a larger battery with much higher amps than the one i took of the campus, and fitted a new starter.

It took a bit of persuading but it ran yesterday :D I gave it a good charge last night and its ran about 5-6 times today even drove it down the street and back.

It does run a bit bad, very lumpy, so next is to check for air leaks.

Is there preferred method for setting up throttle body and fuel pressure regulator.

I read that the fuel pressure reg should be at 3 bar when off and 2.5 when engine on, would the apply to a car running more boost to? Remember I'm just running the standard t2 for now and plan on running 14-16psi after engine has done some miles.

phil

i found that my car runs nicer at nearer 3bar with the engine running. if you loosen the throttle position sensor and turn it till you hear/feel a slight click (with the butterfly closed) thats where the sensor should be. Also if you have used the wiring that andy had its the purple wire off the r5 loom (purple and yellow wires in a clip) that goes to the alt not the yellow;) if you take the maf sensor off when the engine is running and it smoothes out then you most prob have an air leak.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by SCHWARTZ

i found that my car runs nicer at nearer 3bar with the engine running. if you loosen the throttle position sensor and turn it till you hear/feel a slight click (with the butterfly closed) thats where the sensor should be. Also if you have used the wiring that andy had its the purple wire off the r5 loom (purple and yellow wires in a clip) that goes to the alt not the yellow;) if you take the maf sensor off when the engine is running and it smoothes out then you most prob have an air leak.

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Yeah spotted that with the wire.

Could you explain how to do the throttle position sensor. Im guessing its the plug that goes onto the throttle body, which way does it turn? Pics would be nice :)

Also do i need something to set the car to 3 bar when running and how is that done?

I will try disconnecting the maf sensor to.

sorry, but never done this before, thanks phil

tps is bolted to the tb it has slight adjustment undo the screws slightly and turn it the way to close the butterfly (actual butterfly will be all ready closed) until you hear a click then do up the screws. fuel pressure do you have a gauge? get the pump running with engine off (live from batt to pump) and set the regulator to 3bar.

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Originally Posted by SCHWARTZ

tps is bolted to the tb it has slight adjustment undo the screws slightly and turn it the way to close the butterfly (actual butterfly will be all ready closed) until you hear a click then do up the screws. fuel pressure do you have a gauge? get the pump running with engine off (live from batt to pump) and set the regulator to 3bar.

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I dont see anyway of adjusting it to 3 bar, how is that done?

thanks phil

if you dont have an adjustable fuel regulator then you cant and dont need to.

We adjusted the throttle till it clicks just on open, thanks for that.

We checked my fuel pump and it is a standard gt turbo pump. We tested it for pressure it was only producing 1.5 bar at the rail and we had no fuel coming from the return. According to the Volvo Haynes it needs about 3.5 bar, so its right down.

How many guys have had there cars running OK with the standard gt pump, i know i read there OK up to about 14psi of boost, but surly on idle the car should be OK to run?

The car has got orange injectors t5's i believe, would this affect the car on tick over?

I have spoken to Andy and will be buying a walbro pump, replacing the lines to, a job i had hoped to do over the winter.

We did manage to get the revs working OK, we tried running it of pin 8 on the clocks but did not work, so we ran the Volvo blue/brown wire straight to the - on the coil, works great.

Speedo was also not so straight forward, im begining to realise that with this car nothing is :), anyway the gt speedo wire was connected up to the sensor from the Volvo box. This i was told would work either way round. We could only get it to run on my car by connecting the silver wires together, the red with the yel and the white with the brown. Just for anyone else doing this ;)

think the only gt pump that can do it is the phase 1 pump and that cant do much of a boost increase. Defo need an uprated pump matey. im using one of a ph1 golf gti and can easily get 3.5bar at idle.

would have thought the maf sensor would have to be tricked if youre using bigger injectors. May be why you cant get the pressure up.

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Originally Posted by SCHWARTZ

would have thought the maf sensor would have to be tricked if youre using bigger injectors. May be why you cant get the pressure up.

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Is that one of those bypass pipes?

something like a dump-valve sized hole bypassing the maf sensor. Im using standard injectors etc... so dont think i need to do this but scoff is your man.

this is what haz told me when i asked about tp sensor setting up for standard injectors and in your case bigger injectors;)
depends if your on std injectors or not. you'll notice there's a 'click' for idle position on the map, so it should click as it opens and again when it shuts. if using larger injectors you want to set closed position just past the click, as the ecu ignores afm during click and just runs off a set point on the map, thus overfuelling with larger injectors

New walbro pump fitted along with new copper lines and rubber pipes.

Seems to want to start much better now it has a propper pump.

Im having the alternator checked over as its not charging the battery.

Next week im hoping to get it motd :D

I'm so close to getting this car of to mot.

I can not get the car to idle well, i have read the Volvo Haynes and simply do not understand. I have set the tps so it clicks just on open and just before close, but the car still wants to idle at 600rpm which it will not, but does run slightly higher if i disconnect the icv.

Im guessing you get it to run slightly higher with the icv disconnected say 1200rpm and when its plugged in it should drop to say 1000rpm.

I have noticed there is a screw on the top of the tb on the left looking from the front that can be turned either way it let more air in and out, it does still want to stall if that is all the way in and no better if i unscrew it further out.

I noticed there is also a little bold on the top that has a cover on it that would keep the revs up if i brought it out but would that not open the throttle and mess up the position for the click on the tps :confused:

Can anyone help me out :)

i had to open the throttle using that screw that youre on about (the one that pushes open the butterfly) the other screw (if im right) regulates the flow of air through the little hole inside the tb. That is probably the right way to do it, but again im not sure so best speak to someone like haz, markey mark or scoff before doing anything;)

If i adjust that top grub screw the car will idle fine, im just worried that then throttle is not completely closed.

I could do this then just adjust the sensor underneath for the click.

thats what i have done for now but havnt moved the sensor as i didnt think about that. Seems to work fine but mine dosnt idle amazingly well anyway.

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Originally Posted by SCHWARTZ

Seems to work fine but mine dosnt idle amazingly well anyway.

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yeah but youve not got the idle control valve :D

true:laugh: dose idle higher and all over the place when hot:rolleyes::laugh: